Drill a hole all the way through adapter tap it and use a Allen head set screw, put a small dimple in the hub for the screw to set in much easier and faster provided you have tap die set
I'm so glad you posted this... I bought a hub adapter and sprocket a year ago and the diameter of the hole in the adapter was almost 1/8th of an inch under one inch, and I had ordered a one inch adapter. I spent a lot of time arguing with CDH power and the vendor on amazon... I ended up scrapping it and keeping my 9 bolt setup. I recently bought a new hub adapter and sprocket and it's a much better fit, but it isn't perfect. I was thinking of doing some of what you suggested already, I've already done some modification with my angle grinder (only power tool I have besides a dremmel and a drill) but this clears things up so much! I was concerned the adapter wasn't clamping to the hub as good as it could have been...
Yeah it didnt occure to me that the adapter could slip because its perfectly round in the middle but doing what you did is a little to far outside my comfort zone, i guess it helps to have a machinist backround huh... tks again brother
Awesome Idea, I bought the 49cc four stroke kit from BikeBerry and loved it. Kit was very good quality. The rear sprocket adapter I bought from y'all I sanded then epoxied. Worked good, but I did have to redo it once. This is so much better. imo.
Thanks for the insight Phillip! Epoxy has its place but it does tend to give out from my experience as well. Once I learned this and routine tightening I’ve been good.
Great video and very informative. I had an idea to drill and tap a hub adaptor then run a hardened screw through it to a flat spot I'd grind on the hub.
I agree. I wondered why I couldn’t drill, tap and set screw it in place. Only thing I can imagine is the corrosion between steel and aluminum, but it’d be a ton less work and no risk of blowing through my hub with a dermal. Also, they sell this thing, why not have it cut for a keyway prior to shipping? They sell the stuff but I still gotta dremel, grind, cut key down, remove spokes and everything to grind down a new part to fit? Lmao
Thank you very much dear Master! I have learned a lot from your tutorial videos. I really like your channel. I have one problem: About how to put the Brake Disc and the Star in the rear wheel at the same time. If there is a video about this, I will be very grateful to you. Thank you for your hard work. I wish good luck and prosperity at your home and work.
Never had an issue on a coaster break them slipping. But you can use 2 pins or dowels. Drill and ream for 2 solid dowel pins. Grind points on them position on wheel and hit with hammer to spot hole. Do what you need to do to drill the 2 holes out on the wheel and install. For a geared wheel I machined off the 2 mating surfaces and tightened it so much it compressed to a slight oval and it can't slip. I use the button heads so the slight mismatch is minimal.Also measure the bore and wheel axle enclosure or what ever its called and use appropriate aluminum shim stock to match perfectly.
In response to Bikeberry, I took your sanding tip, used JB weld for my 1 to 1.1/2 half spacer and just spot welded the screw heads for safe no return instead of blue thread lock. The outside of the hub is steel and the Chenase 36 sprocket was also steel so five more little tacks with the wire welder and no give and no chance of keyway breakage. You guys also did a great job. The setup is different for your coaster break. It might not work with that concept.On a 7-18 speed you have a protruding mount that joins the diameter of the sprocket o.d. It worked really well. I’m not downing your idea at all. I used a 415 link with epoxy years back. That’s definitely a stronger setup.Best of luck to you and thanks again. Very well explained here and I would be happy to send you some photos or video of mine.For someone who doesn’t have shop ability .....?
That’s some great insight my friend. Thank you for sharing. Yep, this specifically for the coaster brake. I’m going to test the set screw in smaller hubs. Appreciate you!
best advice in the whole comments man. thanks. if the spokes break and you're 4 miles away from home... thats a 2 hour walk. if you're lucky it's also cold
Putting a keyway in my hub as you said totally destroyed my hub. It wiped out 5 spokes ripped the hub wide open and the hub eventually bent and the sprockets on both sides wobble. Now l have got to buy a new wheel.👎 Bad idea!!!!
Just used this method for the first time and it worked great, the hun adaptor and sprocket are on the hun so solidly now. Makes a total difference and less worry for me at high speeds! Thanks for the lessons, now can I get a free set of the mag wheel kit from you guys at Bike Berry? Lol.
I always use rag joint and if clearance is issue I can always make a spacer to space it out if not then I will go to hub adapter and better longer bolts file x grooves in the bottom where it touches hub rough sand hub and use epoxy and red lock tite it will never move again when I’m done and the hub will explode before it gives out
The rag joint setup itself actually isn't too bad on a 36 or 48 spoke wheels but those 9 stock rag joint bolts & nuts suck & break easy.....I went & got 9 strong grade 8 nuts & bolts for like $2 that I can reuse & also torque down tighter.....Seems like there are lot's of little tips & tricks that can turn a crappy stock engine kit into a decent one. I wasted $15 on the wrong spring chain tensioner. I bought the one that mounts to the engine. My friend has a much better spring loaded one that mounts to the rear frame where the stock one does but it has a pivot lever, spring & better chain roller. Too many "know it all" idiots online recommend the wrong parts. I shouldn't have bought the engine mount spring loaded chain tensioner but so many idiot videos claimed it was great. I bought $15 thumb throttle & $15 dual pull brake lever. Then later seen a $15 dual brake lever/thumb throttle combo. Plus I haven't used my $35 hub adapter yet, so about $70 down the drain. Not enough room to use my thumb throttle with my dual pull brake lever. I might be able to trim the clamp bracket down enough for room.
When u sent out the adapter why not sand it, groove the adapter n include a woodruff key.. then all we'd have to do is dremel out the hub.. and maybe tweak the key
I agree, or at least include a little booklet or something that will tell you this stuff, I already scraped one hub adapter cause I couldn't get the thing to not slip.
They are a reseller, they are NOT a shop. They provide customer service for "YOU' to figure out how to use their product. Honestly, they do this very well. Have they any Creative freedom over the products they are selling, I am sure they would modify it all. As of now I don't think they modify a single thing in their kits, but they do provide slightly different mounting hardware.
The pressure of the coaster break concerns me. Plus keeping the hub round. Try folding a piece of fresh 300 grit sand paper with epoxy inside the fold and retain the metal on the hub and adapter. Just a little thought. Blessings to you and yours. 💯
Hi Tony! Great video! My Schwinn 27.5” has factory disc brakes. I saw your build that has rear disc and a drive sprocket from the factory. What spacing do I use between the sprocket & disc and will the factory caliper offset work?
I just installed one of these Hub - sprocket adapters so if I have any issues after the run-in test, I will weld it to the hub because my hub is aluminum and of course the sprocket adaptor is aluminum
Every motorized bike rider needs to do this or know how to do this unless they're using a MAG wheel as I've learned from experience The hub adapters slip and break spokes without this key way installed
Hello! Sorry for my English. Rubber rings provide cushioning. Depreciation will disappear with such a mount. What to do in this case? Depreciation is very important .
I just mentioned that/similar idea above. Use 2 set screws or 2 small bolts with round heads. Drill 2 holes in the hub that the set screws/bolt heads slide into. Like 2 dowel pins for wood working they'll act like 2 wooddruff keys. Easy to measure/line up, the 2 holes to drill, just slowly tighten/clamp the hub adapter down until it starts to make 2 small dents into the hub. Take it off and it perfectly marked where to drill. I wanted to weigh a hub adapter setup & compare it to the rag joint setup weight. If the rag joint setup weighs much less, I'll stick to it. If weights are close to even I'll switch to hub adapter.
Putting two of the adapters together with 3 longer bolts would've been quicker, and it looks cooler, lol, you could use this style of adapter, you just have too cut the spacers off one, making it flat, and drill out one so the three bolts can go all the way through, the Chinese adapters with the three removable spacers are best for doing the double adapter method, all you need for them to work is three longer bolts, and put it together, no drilling or grinding needed.
Why not use epoxy like jb weld and call it good? It’s a longer wait,but no structure modification and for all that trouble with the spokes just tack weld it at any shop for 20$
Much easier to just buy some double sided sand paper and cut it to the exact length to wrap around your hub without over laping. They sell it at plumbing supply stores. It will give some grit for the two surfaces to bite onto. Its called "sand cloth" and as you tighten it down it will crush the sand paper and make it impossible for anything to move. Use lock tight and re torque it a few times after use and your good to go, forget about it
@@nicos9937 I used 120g but wore it down a little bit on a piece of steel pipe so i imagine closer to 220 after that or somewhere in between. Did it to make it thinner cause i was worried that id throw it out of center which is the whole reason of having a hub mount sprocket but after doing it I made two sharpie marks, one on the hub and then on the adapter and i watched them for 2 weeks of 28miles a day and it the marks stayed true. I went with a 44T sprocket and im 200lbs so theres some weight and torque there.
This is exactly the same concept I thought of too except instead of the sand paper I thought of tube liner or some sort of thin rubber material. That would create extra material for the adapter to clamp onto and the friction it would cause when clamped down no way that would spin. Cutting and making a key way is so overly complicated it totally unnecessary
I just got a 80 cc 2 stroke motorbikes and not know if its been broke in?? What ratio should I do with gas and oil?? I bought amsoil synthetic dominator racing oil. Says run 50/1 but I'm not Shure. What do I do please.
@@tonytaylor5087 I was Also wondering I let my bike idel for 5 min or so and the motor is hot is that normal?? Its a 80 cc 2 stroke motorized bicycle. And the bts on the head turned a little white ??
What size sprocket will give me the most speed I just went from the one that comes with the kit to a 16 tooth and didn’t really get much more top speed
My problem is I put everything together.And these black boats are just so d*** tight.I can't get them out to put a 44 tooth sprout in there.Somehow it's stripped and gripped in all kind of crap any suggestions before I grind them out .😢
I have stock mag wheels that the bike came with and I was wondering if this is the way to go by default or if I need to buy a set of spoked rims or motorized specific bike wheels
you could buy mag rims with a built in sprocket but you'll need to go to disc brakes. Or you could buy a traditional spoked rim and use either the hub mounted adapter like the one in this video or the super PITA 9 bolt mounting method that secures the sprocket to the spokes with two rubber donuts and some metal brackets, it's the setup I have now but you need a lot of patience to get it properly centered/aligned.
Thanks for the video.For you guys that are beginners with motorized bikes even if you don't have a hub adapter just using the normal nine screws and bolts through the spokes eventually breaks the spokes too. It just don't happen immediately. So don't be content with it and we did happens just take the extra time and make the key way or use a MAG wheel otherwise your going to have to do it anyway. I'm speaking from experience and I know.And Something else when putting loctite on one screws and bolts cover it up with waterproof substance as I think the rain dissolves the loctite as mine came loose shortly after the rain got on the screws and bolts which I did have exposed to the rain
I agree with you 100% Really what making the keyway does it it prevents it slipping as much. The thing about the hub adapters are this, your hub actually needs to be slighter bigger. If you're buying a 1" hub adpater, your hub should be 1.10"-1.25" Maybe not that much spacing but if the top and bottom of the hub adapter are making contact then it's tightening down not on your hub but on the hub adapter which equals slipping. Another way is to shave off how ever many millimeters you need so that there is a 2mm gap in between each clamp. Personally, I prefer the 9 bolt rag joint, I believe they're safer then the hub adapters. I just bought a mag wheel so lets hope for the best.
Just installed one of these without any of this work or tools. Cut an old tire tube to wrap the hub circumference. Held in place with a piece of electrical tape. For my instalation it took 3 wraps of innertube cut in half and to circumference each layer. Does not move and takes way less time or effort. Also I did not have to open up the holes in the sprocket. Might have just been luck but man this seems like way too much work and also destroying your wheel his way.
That's an Excellent idea which eliminates all this crazy fabrication. Another guy suggested double sided sandpaper between the adapter and hub. I think your idea is better
Dude yessss i thought of the exact same thing too good to hear someone has already done it. No freaking way it would spin with rubber underneath it. Cutting into the hub is just absurd
I like it I mechanically inclined pretty much anything that's broken you fix it do you guys really think the average Joe what do something like that I highly doubt it but yeah common sense I like it it's sweet as hell
And for the price of those I think that should already be cut out for us.. or why not even talk to the manufacturer and have them put some type of teeth in it so it digs into it when you clamp it down
I'm gonna try 2 small round head bolts threaded into the inside center 1/2 of each adapter piece. Then drill 2 holes in my hub that the bolt heads slide down into....Similar to how wooden dowel pins work in wood working. The 2 bolt heads will act like 2 woodruff keys or 2 dowel pins.
Same here. My spokes are 8-way symmetrical, so I it's pretty much impossible to line up the 9 holes of a rag joint or the 3 holes of one of these adapters. I finally mounted the adapter by loosening 2 spokes enough to move them out of the way of the bolt sleeves. I thought about doing something like this, but simply adding a little bit of grit/sand between the adapter halves and the hub before tightening them down should accomplish the same thing. Both surfaces are aluminum, so there shouldn't be any concern about corrosion. I hope @BikeBerryCom sees this and has a suggestion for the spoke problem.
Why don't they come with these issues fixed. It's not like they are cheep. I never had any luck with them. My problem is the sprocket bolts getting loose.
Pin it instead of keyway, drill hole in adaptor friction fit a pin or piece of small dia. Thread rod in it ,drill swallow hole in hub, lot easier ,quicker, just another option . Great minds think alike and fools are seldom different... LoL God Bless ye all
I don’t think people are going to read the title properly. He’s taking extra steps so the easy adapter DOES NOT move at all. Like problems I’ve been hearing about the easy adapter
Blue locktite them bolts. I swear after many of miles having a few time the bolts slip locktite them suckers and they won’t move especially when you are going fast and use thick spoke rim
Gorilla Tape can also be used, you basically put it on the hub and tighten the whole thing down on it, the tape sticky side is hub down and the rubber face side will friction bind the whole thing. IT WILL NOT MOVE 'be sure to de-grease it ahead of time'. Make sure you can put at least two wraps.
The key is not exactly a precision job without backlash . As the adapter is going through the spokes, the backlash in the key will still rock the adaptor in the spokes and so it is the spokes that will limit the movement and not the hand fitted key. It would have been a better result had the adapter been lock tighter on the hub or else the adapter drilled and a hardened screw threaded in it till it meat a countersunk hole in the hub. As it is the key has too much backlash and it is the spokes alone that will hole the torque.
No no no no this is all wrong you should not be giving advice on anybody that is devaluing and destructing their own bike hub that's not cool man you are changing the actual elements of that steel and your brake hub as well you are as well making everything a lot weaker and unreliable and unsafe I don't suggest anybody putting any holes in either their frame or any of their wheels or bike hubs thank you and God bless
Talking about aftermarket motorized-bike parts as-if they are really universal parts, by those selling them is very misleading, or even borderline dishonest, more likely than not, your build will have it's own little problems, and if your not already mechanically-inclined, or at least interested in learning, these problems will seem bigger than they are, if you do manage to get it built, then maintaining it will become a big issue, that's the truth they should be telling people.
Drill a hole all the way through adapter tap it and use a Allen head set screw, put a small dimple in the hub for the screw to set in much easier and faster provided you have tap die set
I agree with you
That’s a better idea
Make a video I'm stupid
would a #6-32 work or would it be to small?( thats the only thread tap i have is why i asked)
Yup.
As a true neophite to this hobby I've found your channel to be super enlightening. Also the channels you've recommended. Thanks Man!!!!
I'm so glad you posted this... I bought a hub adapter and sprocket a year ago and the diameter of the hole in the adapter was almost 1/8th of an inch under one inch, and I had ordered a one inch adapter. I spent a lot of time arguing with CDH power and the vendor on amazon... I ended up scrapping it and keeping my 9 bolt setup. I recently bought a new hub adapter and sprocket and it's a much better fit, but it isn't perfect. I was thinking of doing some of what you suggested already, I've already done some modification with my angle grinder (only power tool I have besides a dremmel and a drill) but this clears things up so much! I was concerned the adapter wasn't clamping to the hub as good as it could have been...
Yeah it didnt occure to me that the adapter could slip because its perfectly round in the middle but doing what you did is a little to far outside my comfort zone, i guess it helps to have a machinist backround huh... tks again brother
Awesome Idea, I bought the 49cc four stroke kit from BikeBerry and loved it. Kit was very good quality. The rear sprocket adapter I bought from y'all I sanded then epoxied. Worked good, but I did have to redo it once. This is so much better. imo.
Thanks for the insight Phillip! Epoxy has its place but it does tend to give out from my experience as well. Once I learned this and routine tightening I’ve been good.
@@tonytaylor5087 yea i liked your way alot better.
Great video and very informative.
I had an idea to drill and tap a hub adaptor then run a hardened screw through it to a flat spot I'd grind on the hub.
I agree. I wondered why I couldn’t drill, tap and set screw it in place. Only thing I can imagine is the corrosion between steel and aluminum, but it’d be a ton less work and no risk of blowing through my hub with a dermal.
Also, they sell this thing, why not have it cut for a keyway prior to shipping? They sell the stuff but I still gotta dremel, grind, cut key down, remove spokes and everything to grind down a new part to fit? Lmao
@@christophersiddall7270yeah I messed up a wheel not knowing it needed all that prep work, spoke mounts are much easier
Great job on the quality of these new videos I love watching them 😀
Thanks Keegan!!
Very informative, had an adapter slip on me and ruin a good wheel. Wish I had watched this before
Why would a buy a machined part that I need to adjust right away? Why isn’t this done from the factory
Tony you do a great job explaining things. Thank you.
Thank you very much dear Master! I have learned a lot from your tutorial videos. I really like your channel. I have one problem: About how to put the Brake Disc and the Star in the rear wheel at the same time. If there is a video about this, I will be very grateful to you. Thank you for your hard work. I wish good luck and prosperity at your home and work.
Never had an issue on a coaster break them slipping. But you can use 2 pins or dowels. Drill and ream for 2 solid dowel pins. Grind points on them position on wheel and hit with hammer to spot hole. Do what you need to do to drill the 2 holes out on the wheel and install. For a geared wheel I machined off the 2 mating surfaces and tightened it so much it compressed to a slight oval and it can't slip. I use the button heads so the slight mismatch is minimal.Also measure the bore and wheel axle enclosure or what ever its called and use appropriate aluminum shim stock to match perfectly.
This video saved me about 72 hours of headache when I decide to do this to my son's bike.
In response to Bikeberry, I took your sanding tip, used JB weld for my 1 to 1.1/2 half spacer and just spot welded the screw heads for safe no return instead of blue thread lock. The outside of the hub is steel and the Chenase 36 sprocket was also steel so five more little tacks with the wire welder and no give and no chance of keyway breakage. You guys also did a great job. The setup is different for your coaster break. It might not work with that concept.On a 7-18 speed you have a protruding mount that joins the diameter of the sprocket o.d. It worked really well. I’m not downing your idea at all. I used a 415 link with epoxy years back. That’s definitely a stronger setup.Best of luck to you and thanks again. Very well explained here and I would be happy to send you some photos or video of mine.For someone who doesn’t have shop ability .....?
That’s some great insight my friend. Thank you for sharing. Yep, this specifically for the coaster brake. I’m going to test the set screw in smaller hubs. Appreciate you!
If you have aluminum hubs, you could have someone tack weld the hub adapter to the hub after you clamp it on.
I found that IF you just bought the nice rims they offer that have the disk brakes and sprocket already on them you don't need to do all this.
best advice in the whole comments man. thanks. if the spokes break and you're 4 miles away from home... thats a 2 hour walk. if you're lucky it's also cold
Wish id seen this a little sooner. Broke 4 spokes on my bike from it twisting..
OK! I got it! Thanks for the heads up on the rear wheel, I knew I had to beef that up ,no more wabble,at the throttle....
#builditright
Putting a keyway in my hub as you said totally destroyed my hub. It wiped out 5 spokes ripped the hub wide open and the hub eventually bent and the sprockets on both sides wobble. Now l have got to buy a new wheel.👎 Bad idea!!!!
Que recomiendas
Thank you for teaching me how to place the piece of the pinion to center the tire
I just bought a Kent Seachange and wonder if cutting a keyway in the Hub woulndt screw up the coaster brake and would you penetrate the outer hub
Just used this method for the first time and it worked great, the hun adaptor and sprocket are on the hun so solidly now. Makes a total difference and less worry for me at high speeds! Thanks for the lessons, now can I get a free set of the mag wheel kit from you guys at Bike Berry? Lol.
hun = hub.
seems way better than a spoke adapter.
I always use rag joint and if clearance is issue I can always make a spacer to space it out if not then I will go to hub adapter and better longer bolts file x grooves in the bottom where it touches hub rough sand hub and use epoxy and red lock tite it will never move again when I’m done and the hub will explode before it gives out
The rag joint setup itself actually isn't too bad on a 36 or 48 spoke wheels but those 9 stock rag joint bolts & nuts suck & break easy.....I went & got 9 strong grade 8 nuts & bolts for like $2 that I can reuse & also torque down tighter.....Seems like there are lot's of little tips & tricks that can turn a crappy stock engine kit into a decent one. I wasted $15 on the wrong spring chain tensioner. I bought the one that mounts to the engine. My friend has a much better spring loaded one that mounts to the rear frame where the stock one does but it has a pivot lever, spring & better chain roller. Too many "know it all" idiots online recommend the wrong parts. I shouldn't have bought the engine mount spring loaded chain tensioner but so many idiot videos claimed it was great. I bought $15 thumb throttle & $15 dual pull brake lever. Then later seen a $15 dual brake lever/thumb throttle combo. Plus I haven't used my $35 hub adapter yet, so about $70 down the drain. Not enough room to use my thumb throttle with my dual pull brake lever. I might be able to trim the clamp bracket down enough for room.
When u sent out the adapter why not sand it, groove the adapter n include a woodruff key.. then all we'd have to do is dremel out the hub.. and maybe tweak the key
I agree, or at least include a little booklet or something that will tell you this stuff, I already scraped one hub adapter cause I couldn't get the thing to not slip.
Why not include milk & cookies as well.
They are a reseller, they are NOT a shop.
They provide customer service for "YOU' to figure out how to use their product.
Honestly, they do this very well. Have they any Creative freedom over the products they are selling, I am sure they would modify it all. As of now I don't think they modify a single thing in their kits, but they do provide slightly different mounting hardware.
A full video and properly installing the hubs awesome.#builditright 👌👌👌👌👌
The pressure of the coaster break concerns me. Plus keeping the hub round. Try folding a piece of fresh 300 grit sand paper with epoxy inside the fold and retain the metal on the hub and adapter. Just a little thought. Blessings to you and yours. 💯
Hi Tony! Great video! My Schwinn 27.5” has factory disc brakes. I saw your build that has rear disc and a drive sprocket from the factory. What spacing do I use between the sprocket & disc and will the factory caliper offset work?
I just installed one of these Hub - sprocket adapters so if I have any issues after the run-in test, I will weld it to the hub because my hub is aluminum and of course the sprocket adaptor is aluminum
What's the service life of an aluminum sprocket and is it worth the extra money?
Every motorized bike rider needs to do this or know how to do this unless they're using a MAG wheel as I've learned from experience The hub adapters slip and break spokes without this key way installed
thanks man. i guess if they slip even 10 gauge spokes would break?
Thanks for sharing the details of information
That's really cool. I used blue threadlocker. Not even that much really, on the bolts and on the hub
Did it hold up?
I wanna know @@wonkydonkey4371
Hello! Sorry for my English. Rubber rings provide cushioning. Depreciation will disappear with such a mount. What to do in this case?
Depreciation is very important .
Drilling and tapping a hole and using a set screw is a whole lot simpler and accomplishes same.
Interesting option for sure. I’m gonna test that out! Thank you
Thank you for the tips! The set screw idea was more my speed and was accomplished easier than expected. Time will tell if it’s a good idea
I just mentioned that/similar idea above. Use 2 set screws or 2 small bolts with round heads. Drill 2 holes in the hub that the set screws/bolt heads slide into. Like 2 dowel pins for wood working they'll act like 2 wooddruff keys. Easy to measure/line up, the 2 holes to drill, just slowly tighten/clamp the hub adapter down until it starts to make 2 small dents into the hub. Take it off and it perfectly marked where to drill. I wanted to weigh a hub adapter setup & compare it to the rag joint setup weight. If the rag joint setup weighs much less, I'll stick to it. If weights are close to even I'll switch to hub adapter.
@gotchurebeacons-gaming9023 did it work?
Putting two of the adapters together with 3 longer bolts would've been quicker, and it looks cooler, lol, you could use this style of adapter, you just have too cut the spacers off one, making it flat, and drill out one so the three bolts can go all the way through, the Chinese adapters with the three removable spacers are best for doing the double adapter method, all you need for them to work is three longer bolts, and put it together, no drilling or grinding needed.
Great idea Mr ,very well explained & detail,thanks to keep sharing with us Say hello Joe & Bros ,suscribes.thanks.
Thank you so much Jorge!
MUCHAS GRACIAS.
Why not use epoxy like jb weld and call it good? It’s a longer wait,but no structure modification and for all that trouble with the spokes just tack weld it at any shop for 20$
Hello Wake, yeah, those are definitely options you can do also. Let us know how those work out.
If you have aluminum hubs the aluminum adapter could be tack welded to the hub after it's clamped on.
This is going way beyond beginners level. 😅 yea on to the next video
Much easier to just buy some double sided sand paper and cut it to the exact length to wrap around your hub without over laping. They sell it at plumbing supply stores. It will give some grit for the two surfaces to bite onto. Its called "sand cloth" and as you tighten it down it will crush the sand paper and make it impossible for anything to move. Use lock tight and re torque it a few times after use and your good to go, forget about it
What grit of sand paper was it?
@@nicos9937 I used 120g but wore it down a little bit on a piece of steel pipe so i imagine closer to 220 after that or somewhere in between. Did it to make it thinner cause i was worried that id throw it out of center which is the whole reason of having a hub mount sprocket but after doing it I made two sharpie marks, one on the hub and then on the adapter and i watched them for 2 weeks of 28miles a day and it the marks stayed true. I went with a 44T sprocket and im 200lbs so theres some weight and torque there.
This is exactly the same concept I thought of too except instead of the sand paper I thought of tube liner or some sort of thin rubber material. That would create extra material for the adapter to clamp onto and the friction it would cause when clamped down no way that would spin. Cutting and making a key way is so overly complicated it totally unnecessary
Una cámara de llanta servirá ?@@Mr.Thermistor7228
@@Mr.Thermistor7228una cámara de llanta servirá ??
Thank you very much for such an excellent video 😃
I just got a 80 cc 2 stroke motorbikes and not know if its been broke in?? What ratio should I do with gas and oil?? I bought amsoil synthetic dominator racing oil. Says run 50/1 but I'm not Shure. What do I do please.
40:1 cradle to grave
@@tonytaylor5087 I was Also wondering I let my bike idel for 5 min or so and the motor is hot is that normal?? Its a 80 cc 2 stroke motorized bicycle. And the bts on the head turned a little white ??
Plus with m9untain bike hub it was spinning even with 1 inch pad adapter for sporket hub 1.5 inch
What size sprocket will give me the most speed I just went from the one that comes with the kit to a 16 tooth and didn’t really get much more top speed
My problem is I put everything together.And these black boats are just so d*** tight.I can't get them out to put a 44 tooth sprout in there.Somehow it's stripped and gripped in all kind of crap any suggestions before I grind them out .😢
My adapter fit perfectly but the bolts wouldn't fit through the spokes to put on the sproket how do I fix that any way I spin the thing no way fits 😊
If I purchase the aluminum rims with the brackets and calipers…due I need the brake mounting brackets for both rims?
So much for plug and play?
Hey J, in my experience it’s hard to have every part be as easy as plug and play. It’s pretty close though. Thank you for watching!
Excellent job.
👍👍
All i got is an impact and drill bit set but hey its works good if you never wont to get the dogged thing off
great video . never thought of doing it that way .
Where do you put the disc or for rim brakes only?
That key actually come with the kit?
Mine keeps getting loose. What should I do. I lock washered it lock tired it. Lost two bolts anyway. Before I switch to rag joint any pointers
😍😍Super..Am facut exact ca tine..Merci..😎
I wonder if all hubs have that thick of metal. I also wonder what the easiest wheel is to mount up solid to.
I have stock mag wheels that the bike came with and I was wondering if this is the way to go by default or if I need to buy a set of spoked rims or motorized specific bike wheels
you could buy mag rims with a built in sprocket but you'll need to go to disc brakes. Or you could buy a traditional spoked rim and use either the hub mounted adapter like the one in this video or the super PITA 9 bolt mounting method that secures the sprocket to the spokes with two rubber donuts and some metal brackets, it's the setup I have now but you need a lot of patience to get it properly centered/aligned.
Might be expensive but cant a welder braze the hub adapter onto the hub?
So I think covering it with tape will work
Nice video!😊
Anyone suggest or Unsuggest putting on solid inner tubes? Im new but both rides so far ive got a flat. 700 38c.
Good form anyway sir.
Thanks for the video.For you guys that are beginners with motorized bikes even if you don't have a hub adapter just using the normal nine screws and bolts through the spokes eventually breaks the spokes too. It just don't happen immediately. So don't be content with it and we did happens just take the extra time and make the key way or use a MAG wheel otherwise your going to have to do it anyway. I'm speaking from experience and I know.And Something else when putting loctite on one screws and bolts cover it up with waterproof substance as I think the rain dissolves the loctite as mine came loose shortly after the rain got on the screws and bolts which I did have exposed to the rain
I agree with you 100% Really what making the keyway does it it prevents it slipping as much. The thing about the hub adapters are this, your hub actually needs to be slighter bigger. If you're buying a 1" hub adpater, your hub should be 1.10"-1.25" Maybe not that much spacing but if the top and bottom of the hub adapter are making contact then it's tightening down not on your hub but on the hub adapter which equals slipping. Another way is to shave off how ever many millimeters you need so that there is a 2mm gap in between each clamp.
Personally, I prefer the 9 bolt rag joint, I believe they're safer then the hub adapters. I just bought a mag wheel so lets hope for the best.
Never had any issues with spokes
My adapter did slip a little but didn't really seem like a problem. Nice tip though. #builditright
Just installed one of these without any of this work or tools. Cut an old tire tube to wrap the hub circumference. Held in place with a piece of electrical tape. For my instalation it took 3 wraps of innertube cut in half and to circumference each layer. Does not move and takes way less time or effort. Also I did not have to open up the holes in the sprocket. Might have just been luck but man this seems like way too much work and also destroying your wheel his way.
That's an Excellent idea which eliminates all this crazy fabrication. Another guy suggested double sided sandpaper between the adapter and hub. I think your idea is better
Dude yessss i thought of the exact same thing too good to hear someone has already done it. No freaking way it would spin with rubber underneath it. Cutting into the hub is just absurd
Awesome!!
Where did you get the adapter?
Where did you get the hub and sprocket? That is a #35 chain right?
nice fabrication my man!
I have a 38cc engine that I would like to add a sprocket to mount the engine in the front of the bike
Yeah I got one and it slips now I know how to do it thank you
How can you keep it from wiggling
Why don't they include this type of sprocket instead of the garbage they give you?
Need help with. Carb. Choke won't stay tight
Are these kind of brackets harder on your spokes than the rubber ones??? I'm assuming a yes
Not really. It transfers all the torque to the hub
Pretty cool
Another good quality video! But Hub adapters suck, they're more trouble than they're worth. There are better ways to mount a rear sprocket.
I like it I mechanically inclined pretty much anything that's broken you fix it do you guys really think the average Joe what do something like that I highly doubt it but yeah common sense I like it it's sweet as hell
And for the price of those I think that should already be cut out for us.. or why not even talk to the manufacturer and have them put some type of teeth in it so it digs into it when you clamp it down
I'm gonna try 2 small round head bolts threaded into the inside center 1/2 of each adapter piece. Then drill 2 holes in my hub that the bolt heads slide down into....Similar to how wooden dowel pins work in wood working. The 2 bolt heads will act like 2 woodruff keys or 2 dowel pins.
Appreciate the thoroughness! #builditright
Hey . My adapter doesn’t fit thru my spokes correctly. Old school American wheel with 1.5 inch hub and adapter… any idea ?
Same here. My spokes are 8-way symmetrical, so I it's pretty much impossible to line up the 9 holes of a rag joint or the 3 holes of one of these adapters. I finally mounted the adapter by loosening 2 spokes enough to move them out of the way of the bolt sleeves.
I thought about doing something like this, but simply adding a little bit of grit/sand between the adapter halves and the hub before tightening them down should accomplish the same thing. Both surfaces are aluminum, so there shouldn't be any concern about corrosion.
I hope @BikeBerryCom sees this and has a suggestion for the spoke problem.
Anyone else having trouble fitting this on there rim? I have a 32 spoke rim with 16 on each side and I can't find a good angle?
Why don't they come with these issues fixed. It's not like they are cheep. I never had any luck with them. My problem is the sprocket bolts getting loose.
Pin it instead of keyway, drill hole in adaptor friction fit a pin or piece of small dia. Thread rod in it ,drill swallow hole in hub, lot easier ,quicker, just another option . Great minds think alike and fools are seldom different... LoL
God Bless ye all
What's the wheel size?
Hi there I run mine on 5o to 1 I’m I wrong thanks.
I don’t think people are going to read the title properly. He’s taking extra steps so the easy adapter DOES NOT move at all. Like problems I’ve been hearing about the easy adapter
strong Gule 😅
Gostaria de comprar o kit completo poder ser ?
Blue locktite them bolts. I swear after many of miles having a few time the bolts slip locktite them suckers and they won’t move especially when you are going fast and use thick spoke rim
CAN YOU USE RED LOCK TIGHT IN STEAD OF KEY
better to use JB weld but that will give away eventually
#BUILDITRIGHT/BUILDITBETTER Thanks Tony Taylor
I tried cutting that grove in a bike berry steel rim and ended cutting a hole through it. :(
Gorilla Tape can also be used, you basically put it on the hub and tighten the whole thing down on it, the tape sticky side is hub down and the rubber face side will friction bind the whole thing. IT WILL NOT MOVE 'be sure to de-grease it ahead of time'.
Make sure you can put at least two wraps.
Yup!! Same concept I made a comment about too. The way he's doing it is so unnecessary
why not just do a locating pin?
The key is not exactly a precision job without backlash . As the adapter is going through the spokes, the backlash in the key will still rock the adaptor in the spokes and so it is the spokes that will limit the movement and not the hand fitted key.
It would have been a better result had the adapter been lock tighter on the hub or else the adapter drilled and a hardened screw threaded in it till it meat a countersunk hole in the hub. As it is the key has too much backlash and it is the spokes alone that will hole the torque.
👍👍👍👍👍
Nice work. If you enjoy doing work like this you should get a mill
or just weld it on
Brother I gotta drill and sand an 80 dollar kit?
No no no no this is all wrong you should not be giving advice on anybody that is devaluing and destructing their own bike hub that's not cool man you are changing the actual elements of that steel and your brake hub as well you are as well making everything a lot weaker and unreliable and unsafe I don't suggest anybody putting any holes in either their frame or any of their wheels or bike hubs thank you and God bless
I agree completely. There are far better ways to do this
@@Mr.Thermistor7228 wow considering this is 2 years old I still agree as well
Talking about aftermarket motorized-bike parts as-if they are really universal parts, by those selling them is very misleading, or even borderline dishonest, more likely than not, your build will have it's own little problems, and if your not already mechanically-inclined, or at least interested in learning, these problems will seem bigger than they are, if you do manage to get it built, then maintaining it will become a big issue, that's the truth they should be telling people.