I didn't know that so many people were having problems with these CNC clamps or I would have spoken up sooner or possibly made a TH-cam video myself about how I solved this problem on my own bike. Before installing my hub adapter on my rear wheel hub I drilled a hole through my CNC adapter from the outside surface to the inside surface and then tapped the hole to accept the same size bolt as the other two that tighten the clamp together but didn't put a bolt in it yet. I then installed the hub adapter and my sprocket on the rear wheel hub and then installed the rear wheel back onto the bike. I installed my chain & tensioner and adjusted the hub adapter position to align the rear sprocket with the chain & tensioner in the position that it was going to run. Once I had everything aligned and set the way I wanted it I then removed the rear wheel from the bike and sprayed a little paint in the hole that I had drilled and threaded and let it dry. Once dry I removed the sprocket and hub adapter from the wheel hub and removed the guts from the wheel hub. I then drilled a hole into the hub where the paint spot was. I then reinstalled my hub adapter so that the hole in the hub adapter and the hole in the hub aligned and threaded the bolt through the hub adapter right into the wheel hub. I then used a hack saw blade to mark the bold where I was gong to cut it and then removed the bolt, I cut the bolt so that it would be flush with the inside of the hub and then used a gringer to make it just a hait shorter. I reinstalled the bolt through the hub adapter and through the wheel hub wall and made sure that the end of the bolt didn't protrude into the inside of the hub where it would hit the brake shoes. I reinstalled the wheel hub guts, sproket, and put the wheel back on the bike and that's how I solved the problem. I'm still running it that way after a few months and have had no problems. Hope that helps.
Thank you for sharing this ! I just ordered a hub adapter and was curious as to what problems may occur if any . I don't want any surprises and you saved me from possible catastrophic failure that I'm sure occurs quickly !!!
this video was created in reaction to my own walmart rear hub. in addition,..i inserted a piece (strip) of steel hacksaw blade formed into a ring. the offset/protruding steel teeth made the perfect shim. the jaggedy teeth bite into the hub AND the adaptor when you tighten it all down. so,...sanded adaptor,...plus hacksaw blade shim,....plus red perma strength loctite?? yeah. it hasnt moved. at all. not one bit.
Also, be careful buying these 1” to 1.5” hub adapters off eBay, they have two wedges that go inside the sprocket adapter to bring it down to 1”, but the one I got was actually 1.07” which it didn’t say in the listing, and they put in a rubber piece to rap around the hub to take up that extra .07 which turned out allowed the adapter to gradually slip as the rubber had some give to it. So it bent my bran new wheels spokes defeating the purpose of getting the hub adapter in the first place lol. It was cheaper so I bought it thinking it should work the same, nope just get the three piece one and sand it down if it’s a little loose.
yeah man....that sucks ass. in all my experiences building bikes and listening to others' woes,....I can safely say, never,..EVER insert, shim, cushion, or space Anything with Anything except METAL. every connection on the entire bicycle must be solid metal,...to solid metal. no plastic, no rubber, no Teflon, just metal-to-metal. no exceptions. ever.
@@glennkometscher7928 I just realized I screwed up by buying the 1.5 to 1 inch kit with the 2 aluminum shims/spacer and the rubber shim. I have 48 spoke wheels. It does fit but I know it's gonna slip, I'm gonna make an aluminum shim and use VHB tape to hold everything in place. Either that or possibly sand each piece of the hub adapter way down and trim the bolts.
I just soldered mine to the hub all way around. If you wanna get it off heat it up and it melts away. Fabulous stuff. Tho don't trust me, your experience may be different. But something to keep in mind.
i can totally see solder getting it done. especially if you score/gouge the outside of the hub and the inside of the adapter. the solder would probably (hopefully) flow into those "voids",..there by creating its own makeshift custom keyway,..that you can someday remove without damage. i have to say,..i like this idea a lot.
strange how it took so long for somebody to go at it from this angle. this technique should be the first thing anybody with a slippage issue should try
It took over a year but...Shure enough...Everything you have said here is what happened. I hope everyone who plans on running a hub adapter takes the time to watch this..They will wish they had..
After you do your sanding and you get ready to fit it on where you want it take some JB Weld and J-B Weld it to the wheel and then Loctite the screws and it won't ever slip
Done the same thing everything was perfect the wife takes it for a ride comes back the rear hub was smoking 🤔.Sanding let me apply more pressure on hub adapter no more problems 👍
See the solution that I posted in the comments. Rather that a Keyway I threaded in a Set-Bolt. See my comment for the details. It works great. Good luck.
@@starballs2009 alls i know is that red loctite comes in 2 strengths at my local store. high strength,.... and permanent strength. and if there was an "atomic strength" on that shelf that day,....i would have bought that. no,..i don't remember the number. and i only put it on there as an extra precaution. dont rely on ANY chemical to replace a real, secure metal-to-metal connection.
I thought I would say I've only found 2 videos regarding this and the other video the guy makes a keyway between the hub and adapter . The keyway method is labor intensive and I would be afraid that any groove cut into the hub is likely to compromise the structural integrity especially on a coaster brake which will wear from the inside out by the brake pads . This is a much simpler more frugal approach !
You have to measure how wide the hub on your wheel is. You can measure the wideness of your hub with a tool called a calliper. If you don't have that tool, you can use a flexible measuring tape, like the one a tailor would have, and wrap it around your hub and find how many inches the tape goes around the hub. Divide that number by pi, or 3.14, and that will also give you the wideness of your hub.
If you run 2 longer bolts all the way threw and drill out threaded holes use stainless steel bolts, use nylon lock nuts SS, with locktite on all nuts, adapter mating surfaces would be the very best. Why? more clamping with out stripping the blind stock threads out. Get now longer 2 bolts very tight. If you do not drill out 2 threaded holes, make sure bolts do not bottom out and very tight, for maximun thread engaugement. Keying with square stock on hub cut and hub adapter like a crankshaft would be very best. Automotive crank balancers have to be pressed on and they never come loose if done right.. Aluminum after time will wear and loosen. Roughen up center half hole with half round file evenly. Flat 4 sides on glass you want a gap - crush if not their is more chance coming loose under acceleration, deacceleration, shaking and vibration over time. Solid motor mounts these bikes come with wiggle and loosen stuff with time just like my street and strip car with solid engine mounts. Factory rubber engine mounts in vehicles don"t wiggle and loosen stuff. This above and Cutting the rear hub and adapter for key way (clearing spokes first) doing this is the very best!!! All motorized bikes are going to take maintance, tune ups, oil changing if 4 stroke, time, tools and money!!! Why I run a 4 stroke longer lasting, more dependable and I do not like throwing money away on a 2 that will constantly need money. You need to be able to work on your bike your self ideally. Or it will put you in the poor house. I have over 30 years of a strong mechanical back ground. And like alot of things they need improvement in these motorized bikes! I always say Do the job right and tight the first time!
@@motorizedbicyclerider5296 i think the instant the screw breaks through the hub wall,...your internal hub brake "scrubbers"would collide with it,...and all hell will break loose. internal hub brake??definitely not. HOWEVER,... however,....if you are rolling with a standard derailleur/cassette hub with brakes located elsewhere? i discovered one day,.. whilst doing the usual scheduled bearing maintenance,..that the hub only had the axle inside. nothing else. (some filthy old grease) the actual bearings are on the sides,...and theres a decent-sized gap between the inner wall of the hub,...and that axle. my point is: that gap IS big enough (on my bike at least) that a really short screw/bolt/pin (or whatever) going through the hub wall would stick through to the inside WITHOUT doing a damned thing. WIN. (...it may even provide you with a hole that you could shove more grease into if you wanted to.)
I don’t understand everyone’s problem. Buy the right sized adapter, put some valve grinding compound, slightly tighten, twist back and forth for 15 seconds, remove and clean off valve grinding compound, reinstall as normal and it wont slip
@@speedyclipz6464 think about the forces being applied to that tiny adapter surface. no way am i betting life and limb on jb weld. no way in hell. ...would you?
Just so nobody tried this with a 11/2" adaptor when they have a 1" hub! You could make it clamp down but the amount of material removed would cause the bolt holes for the sprocket become too close together to work.
I didn't know that so many people were having problems with these CNC clamps or I would have spoken up sooner or possibly made a TH-cam video myself about how I solved this problem on my own bike. Before installing my hub adapter on my rear wheel hub I drilled a hole through my CNC adapter from the outside surface to the inside surface and then tapped the hole to accept the same size bolt as the other two that tighten the clamp together but didn't put a bolt in it yet. I then installed the hub adapter and my sprocket on the rear wheel hub and then installed the rear wheel back onto the bike. I installed my chain & tensioner and adjusted the hub adapter position to align the rear sprocket with the chain & tensioner in the position that it was going to run. Once I had everything aligned and set the way I wanted it I then removed the rear wheel from the bike and sprayed a little paint in the hole that I had drilled and threaded and let it dry. Once dry I removed the sprocket and hub adapter from the wheel hub and removed the guts from the wheel hub. I then drilled a hole into the hub where the paint spot was. I then reinstalled my hub adapter so that the hole in the hub adapter and the hole in the hub aligned and threaded the bolt through the hub adapter right into the wheel hub. I then used a hack saw blade to mark the bold where I was gong to cut it and then removed the bolt, I cut the bolt so that it would be flush with the inside of the hub and then used a gringer to make it just a hait shorter. I reinstalled the bolt through the hub adapter and through the wheel hub wall and made sure that the end of the bolt didn't protrude into the inside of the hub where it would hit the brake shoes. I reinstalled the wheel hub guts, sproket, and put the wheel back on the bike and that's how I solved the problem. I'm still running it that way after a few months and have had no problems. Hope that helps.
You a saint!
Thank you for sharing this ! I just ordered a hub adapter and was curious as to what problems may occur if any . I don't want any surprises and you saved me from possible catastrophic failure that I'm sure occurs quickly !!!
Great info! You should see the hell of getting 1 inch adapter to fit walmart 7/8" hub from hell and not slip without keywaying....absoulute nightmare!
this video was created in reaction to my own walmart rear hub. in addition,..i inserted a piece (strip) of steel hacksaw blade formed into a ring. the offset/protruding steel teeth made the perfect shim. the jaggedy teeth bite into the hub AND the adaptor when you tighten it all down. so,...sanded adaptor,...plus hacksaw blade shim,....plus red perma strength loctite?? yeah. it hasnt moved. at all. not one bit.
Good to hear other takes on this problem.
Legend, saving many Dollars, should be paid for this!
Also, be careful buying these 1” to 1.5” hub adapters off eBay, they have two wedges that go inside the sprocket adapter to bring it down to 1”, but the one I got was actually 1.07” which it didn’t say in the listing, and they put in a rubber piece to rap around the hub to take up that extra .07 which turned out allowed the adapter to gradually slip as the rubber had some give to it. So it bent my bran new wheels spokes defeating the purpose of getting the hub adapter in the first place lol. It was cheaper so I bought it thinking it should work the same, nope just get the three piece one and sand it down if it’s a little loose.
yeah man....that sucks ass. in all my experiences building bikes and listening to others' woes,....I can safely say, never,..EVER insert, shim, cushion, or space Anything with Anything except METAL. every connection on the entire bicycle must be solid metal,...to solid metal. no plastic, no rubber, no Teflon, just metal-to-metal. no exceptions. ever.
true that hapened to me
@@glennkometscher7928 I just realized I screwed up by buying the 1.5 to 1 inch kit with the 2 aluminum shims/spacer and the rubber shim. I have 48 spoke wheels. It does fit but I know it's gonna slip, I'm gonna make an aluminum shim and use VHB tape to hold everything in place. Either that or possibly sand each piece of the hub adapter way down and trim the bolts.
I just soldered mine to the hub all way around. If you wanna get it off heat it up and it melts away. Fabulous stuff. Tho don't trust me, your experience may be different. But something to keep in mind.
i can totally see solder getting it done. especially if you score/gouge the outside of the hub and the inside of the adapter. the solder would probably (hopefully) flow into those "voids",..there by creating its own makeshift custom keyway,..that you can someday remove without damage. i have to say,..i like this idea a lot.
I was thinking the same thing just sand it down to fit. Thanks this will save my spokes and rim. Great idea. Subbed liked!
strange how it took so long for somebody to go at it from this angle. this technique should be the first thing anybody with a slippage issue should try
It took over a year but...Shure enough...Everything you have said here is what happened. I hope everyone who plans on running a hub adapter takes the time to watch this..They will wish they had..
After you do your sanding and you get ready to fit it on where you want it take some JB Weld and J-B Weld it to the wheel and then Loctite the screws and it won't ever slip
Good video just installing a hub adapter 36 sprocket
Done the same thing everything was perfect the wife takes it for a ride comes back the rear hub was smoking 🤔.Sanding let me apply more pressure on hub adapter no more problems 👍
smoking rear hub? NICE
How would this work if you have a 1 inch hub, but have to use a 1 1/2 adapter with a reducer?
same problem here. still looking for a solution. : (
How about slipping a 0.001" shim under each half of the adaptor?
thanks for the info on slippage! i was going to make a key way but gonna try your method first>
See the solution that I posted in the comments. Rather that a Keyway I threaded in a Set-Bolt. See my comment for the details. It works great. Good luck.
We cut a key way in my adapter and but ,never slip its locked 😊
like your video . seen that video with a key way i would mess it up . like your way better .
I can't believe you did that stroke🤣 u caught your self too😂 very funny!
Which loctite did you use. There are tons of different kinds? What was the number of what you used???
Blue locktite means it can be removed with strong tools. Red locktite means it can never be removed.
@@starballs2009 alls i know is that red loctite comes in 2 strengths at my local store. high strength,.... and permanent strength. and if there was an "atomic strength" on that shelf that day,....i would have bought that.
no,..i don't remember the number. and i only put it on there as an extra precaution. dont rely on ANY chemical to replace a real, secure metal-to-metal connection.
can you put washer's on the bolts so thay dont bottem out ???
ya man
@@robertsmith5323 ok thank's great video
Good video thank you
right on
I orderd one for my huffy crankbrook will it work?I ordered loctite to
i dont know what size you ordered,...and i also have no clue what size your hub is,...so,.......
I thought I would say I've only found 2 videos regarding this and the other video the guy makes a keyway between the hub and adapter . The keyway method is labor intensive and I would be afraid that any groove cut into the hub is likely to compromise the structural integrity especially on a coaster brake which will wear from the inside out by the brake pads .
This is a much simpler more frugal approach !
cutting a keyway into a coaster brake hub wall is frikkin retarded and begging for a hard lesson in blood.
I have a question is the cnc adaptor made in China from ebay any good? I have Micargi can it fit? It say 1.5'' I don't understand what that mean.
You have to measure how wide the hub on your wheel is. You can measure the wideness of your hub with a tool called a calliper. If you don't have that tool, you can use a flexible measuring tape, like the one a tailor would have, and wrap it around your hub and find how many inches the tape goes around the hub. Divide that number by pi, or 3.14, and that will also give you the wideness of your hub.
@@starballs2009 thank you.
i wasnt going anywhere near this one.
Does the loctite cure even though it is in contact with air.?
hell yes. you have to move quickly. its almost identical to crazy glue gel. you got about 2 minutes tops
If you run 2 longer bolts all the way threw and drill out threaded holes use stainless steel bolts, use nylon lock nuts SS, with locktite on all nuts, adapter mating surfaces would be the very best. Why? more clamping with out stripping the blind stock threads out. Get now longer 2 bolts very tight. If you do not drill out 2 threaded holes, make sure bolts do not bottom out and very tight, for maximun thread engaugement. Keying with square stock on hub cut and hub adapter like a crankshaft would be very best. Automotive crank balancers have to be pressed on and they never come loose if done right.. Aluminum after time will wear and loosen. Roughen up center half hole with half round file evenly. Flat 4 sides on glass you want a gap - crush if not their is more chance coming loose under acceleration, deacceleration, shaking and vibration over time. Solid motor mounts these bikes come with wiggle and loosen stuff with time just like my street and strip car with solid engine mounts. Factory rubber engine mounts in vehicles don"t wiggle and loosen stuff. This above and Cutting the rear hub and adapter for key way (clearing spokes first) doing this is the very best!!! All motorized bikes are going to take maintance, tune ups, oil changing if 4 stroke, time, tools and money!!! Why I run a 4 stroke longer lasting, more dependable and I do not like throwing money away on a 2 that will constantly need money. You need to be able to work on your bike your self ideally. Or it will put you in the poor house. I have over 30 years of a strong mechanical back ground. And like alot of things they need improvement in these motorized bikes! I always say Do the job right and tight the first time!
You can't just drill a screw through the adapter and through the bicycle hub
never said that
@@robertsmith5323 I know you never said that , I said can you do it that way that's what I meant
@@motorizedbicyclerider5296 i think the instant the screw breaks through the hub wall,...your internal hub brake "scrubbers"would collide with it,...and all hell will break loose. internal hub brake??definitely not. HOWEVER,... however,....if you are rolling with a standard derailleur/cassette hub with brakes located elsewhere? i discovered one day,.. whilst doing the usual scheduled bearing maintenance,..that the hub only had the axle inside. nothing else. (some filthy old grease) the actual bearings are on the sides,...and theres a decent-sized gap between the inner wall of the hub,...and that axle.
my point is: that gap IS big enough (on my bike at least) that a really short screw/bolt/pin (or whatever) going through the hub wall would stick through to the inside WITHOUT doing a damned thing.
WIN.
(...it may even provide you with a hole that you could shove more grease into if you wanted to.)
@@robertsmith5323 hey thanks for your response Robert
@@motorizedbicyclerider5296 right on
I don’t understand everyone’s problem. Buy the right sized adapter, put some valve grinding compound, slightly tighten, twist back and forth for 15 seconds, remove and clean off valve grinding compound, reinstall as normal and it wont slip
good luck w/that
@@robertsmith5323 have actually had tons of luck with it 😂
@@anonymousvic5370 how long has this method worked?
@@charlesartificer2158 been fine over 6 months already
@@anonymousvic5370 thanks for the info much appreciated.
Can u jb weld the hab
THATS WHAT I WAS THINKING.
@@speedyclipz6464 think about the forces being applied to that tiny adapter surface. no way am i betting life and limb on jb weld. no way in hell.
...would you?
But ain't there different size adapters?
yeap
@@robertsmith5323 I used the spacers from manic mechanic they sell sizes to the 16th of the inch fits like a glove
how much did they want?
@@robertsmith5323 $30
@ agreed
Buy bicycle with disc brakes remove disk and get sprocket that has six bolt holes
sounds logical. you *could* mark and drill holes in your sprocket if the original factory holes aren't perfect---I guess
Just so nobody tried this with a 11/2" adaptor when they have a 1" hub! You could make it clamp down but the amount of material removed would cause the bolt holes for the sprocket become too close together to work.
yes,...if you remove a shit ton of material,...then yes the sprocket bolt holes will be an issue. im talking about removing 1/16" tops
Those two pieces look like a drawing they would fit right in there and you would see the bolts so you can tighten down as much as you want
Google hub adapters on eBay you should find them 1 in thick for even smaller hubs
They have two half pieces now that I a inch thick to put in the middle
most hub adapters made of aluminum and hubs are made of steel, want that cause electrolytic corrosion
not really because there's always grease and oil all over that general area
Loctite takes 24 hours to actually settle
15:00-15:30
2x speed lol
"bang bang bang!"
It was a good video though. I have the hub adapter and was having the same issues 👍👍
I guess nobody knows about the inserts that go in between first
He dident mention that did he