You should really tighten the head down in two stages, 25 ft/lbs first then repeat the tightening sequence to 45 ft/lbs or 50 ft/lbs depending on the engine spec and stud spec. ARP studs should be done in 3 sequences, 25 ft/lbs--50ft/lbs and 75 ft/lbs. There are 9 stud and 10 stud heads, the 11th is a bolt and should be 25 ft/lbs. Tappet clearances are 0.012" inlet and 0.015" exhaust. The head should be re-torqued after a full engine warm up and/or short drive and valve clearances reset. Your fan is on backwards.
see, this guy knows.... even then, who has EVER lifted a head on an a series engine? LOL arp bolts are great... not needed. this is not a 10:1+ engine nor is it forced induction. total waste of money
+ube urban If I was looking to make an investment in a lasting tool I would go digital: www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM601-4-2-Inch-Digital-Torque/dp/B0081AQDIY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1460823949&sr=8-2&keywords=digital+torque+wrench If I was in the market because I just needed one quick and didn't care about the digital stuff I could get a tekton click style: www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-Torque-10-150-Foot/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1460823949&sr=8-6&keywords=digital+torque+wrench
+Benny Dadog Hey I didn't cover it in detail on this but I always use the ARP torque lubrication on my bolts when I am tightening them. In my opinion its always worth using and it takes no extra effort to just add it to the process.
What valve clearance do you recommend for an a+ 998 engine with stock parts on it? I wasn't sure if I should use the same gap you did in the video, thank you.
Turn the engine until the valves on 1. are "on the rock" and adjust both valves on 4. turn until 3. is on the rock and adjust both on 2. turn until 4. is on the rock and do 1. lastly turn until 2. is on the rock and adjust both on 3. Don't tighten the bolts in one go, do it in stages, these are not stretch bolts so you do not need to follow exact stages just do do it in two or three. With modern composite gaskets you do not need to re-tighten later, in fact, in my experience, it has proved to be a pointless exercise if the head was properly tightened in the first place, if you do decide to re-torque the bolts, after a run, don't forget you will need to re-do the tappet clearances too.
Hi I guess the same applies for an Austin 1100 though intake clearance was 10 and exhaust 12 unless more modern mini,s were same for all. I have to do mine soon. Looking for advice. Mervyn
Thanks for the kind words! I don't have a video yet for removing the motor. However I will be pulling my motor in about about a month give or take, when I do it I will be going into great detail about the removal process. :-)
Good vid thanks and well done, But no info on setting the valve open position, prior to setting the gap for the coresponding open valve gap.......Is it simply a matter of adjusting the rocker tight onto the valve until the spring is completely tensioned ?
I'm not sure I understand what you are asking? Setting the clearance between the rocker and the top of the valve is setting that gap I think you are referring to.
Nope! You will have to remove the rocket assembly to get the head off but you do not need to adjust the rockers at that time. Just make sure you keep the lifters in the same order when you take them out and put them back in.
I would love to do a video on this. However I don't need to remove mine currently. As soon as I have one of my friends requiring an engine removal I will make a video for you! :-)
Enjoyed the vid as I wanted to see how it all worked as I have a Reliant 850 engine which is a cousin of the A series both being derived from the Austin 7 engines, btw have you tried a ClickAdjust tool which was almost designed around the A series and is a great tool for doing the lock nuts up.
Yes Reliant bought the sidevalve tooling from Austin-Morris turning to an all alloy evolution with the 750 then the 850cc lumps which visually are identical to an A series, I am a great fan of the A series engine as its such a treat to work on and yet is just so feisty for its size.
1. A full socket set (depending on the head stud nuts you may need 12 point sockets) 2. Torque Wrench - Absolutely required to do properly 3. Valve clearance shim tool - they sell these at basically any auto parts store. Just ask and they will point you in the right direction 4. Flathead screw driver 5. Spanner set 6. Nice set of gloves
Indeed it was. Not sure if it was during engine rebuild most recently or during some other maintenance I must have put it on backwards. Thankfully now that its 97-101 in NC these days it's on the correct way. Thanks for the heads up!
+Classic Mini DIY Hey Mini DIY, just about to do a head gasket myself and curious what else you would change or look out for while doing this? (1991 SPi Mini, oil in coolant symptom)
+Jason Day Hey Jason, when you take the head off you will probably be able to see where the gasket itself is split allowing oil to move into the coolant. Also on the face of the block and head check for scoring or blow by marks which generally look burnt. Also if the blow by is really big I would consider taking the head to a machine shop and having them confirm the face is still all even so that it seals nicely with the new head gasket.
+Classic Mini DIY Perfect thank you! Now just got to wait for the parts to come from england! Anywhere we can go (forum maybe) to see what your current setup is? Beautiful mini you have
+Jason Day Thanks for the kind words. I have an album(way too big) of the whole resto process minus the most recent few months. Here's a link to it: imgur.com/a/MN0wx#0 On most all the mini forums out there I am SomethingNew71 minimania.com theminiforum.co.uk restorationmini.com
Those "lifters" are actually called pushrods.
bravo, you're best
You should really tighten the head down in two stages, 25 ft/lbs first then repeat the tightening sequence to 45 ft/lbs or 50 ft/lbs depending on the engine spec and stud spec. ARP studs should be done in 3 sequences, 25 ft/lbs--50ft/lbs and 75 ft/lbs. There are 9 stud and 10 stud heads, the 11th is a bolt and should be 25 ft/lbs. Tappet clearances are 0.012" inlet and 0.015" exhaust. The head should be re-torqued after a full engine warm up and/or short drive and valve clearances reset.
Your fan is on backwards.
see, this guy knows.... even then, who has EVER lifted a head on an a series engine? LOL arp bolts are great... not needed. this is not a 10:1+ engine nor is it forced induction. total waste of money
I have read that the head need 42Nm tightening.that is a lot lower than 45ft/lbs.what your thought?i an going to tighten an mpi 9 bolt head.
@@minor0confusion Well, mine is 10.9:1. Those engines respond really well to high CR, taking precautions pays off on the long term.
Yer Fan'z on Backwerds!
Hi, is it mandatory to change the screw which link the head and the engine when you remove the head ?
Brilliant video and great tutorial...God Bless you! congrats... Pablo De Oliveira
Awesomeness! What torque wrenches would you recommend?
+ube urban
If I was looking to make an investment in a lasting tool I would go digital:
www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM601-4-2-Inch-Digital-Torque/dp/B0081AQDIY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1460823949&sr=8-2&keywords=digital+torque+wrench
If I was in the market because I just needed one quick and didn't care about the digital stuff I could get a tekton click style:
www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-Torque-10-150-Foot/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1460823949&sr=8-6&keywords=digital+torque+wrench
Again, much appreciated - love the advice and tutorial videos - keep it going! ;)
Hi. With regards to ARP studs and nuts, what's your opinion on dry vs wet torquing? Thanks for your vids.
+Benny Dadog Hey I didn't cover it in detail on this but I always use the ARP torque lubrication on my bolts when I am tightening them. In my opinion its always worth using and it takes no extra effort to just add it to the process.
Benny Dadog Aa
What valve clearance do you recommend for an a+ 998 engine with stock parts on it? I wasn't sure if I should use the same gap you did in the video, thank you.
0.3
MG Metro 1275, 13 thou if they are standard rockers.
15 thou if using 1.5.1 rollers
Turn the engine until the valves on 1. are "on the rock" and adjust both valves on 4. turn until 3. is on the rock and adjust both on 2. turn until 4. is on the rock and do 1. lastly turn until 2. is on the rock and adjust both on 3. Don't tighten the bolts in one go, do it in stages, these are not stretch bolts so you do not need to follow exact stages just do do it in two or three. With modern composite gaskets you do not need to re-tighten later, in fact, in my experience, it has proved to be a pointless exercise if the head was properly tightened in the first place, if you do decide to re-torque the bolts, after a run, don't forget you will need to re-do the tappet clearances too.
Hi I guess the same applies for an Austin 1100 though intake clearance was 10 and exhaust 12 unless more modern mini,s were same for all. I have to do mine soon. Looking for advice. Mervyn
hey dude, do you have a video where you take out the engine. I need to do that with mine. Great video's btw
Thanks for the kind words! I don't have a video yet for removing the motor. However I will be pulling my motor in about about a month give or take, when I do it I will be going into great detail about the removal process. :-)
What am I missing? What about the order for the rest of the valves? Compress 1 = Adjust 8. Compress 5 = Adjust 4.....what about the rest?
Rule of 9
Good vid thanks and well done, But no info on setting the valve open position, prior to setting the gap for the coresponding open valve gap.......Is it simply a matter of adjusting the rocker tight onto the valve until the spring is completely tensioned ?
I'm not sure I understand what you are asking? Setting the clearance between the rocker and the top of the valve is setting that gap I think you are referring to.
Do you need to loose and re-tighten the rocker arms even if you didnt move the pistons? Like for a simple head gasket replacement. Thanks
Nope! You will have to remove the rocket assembly to get the head off but you do not need to adjust the rockers at that time. Just make sure you keep the lifters in the same order when you take them out and put them back in.
Hi! Would it be possible for you to do a video on how to remove an engine from a Mini? I am a visual learner and I enjoy your teaching style! Thanks!
I would love to do a video on this. However I don't need to remove mine currently. As soon as I have one of my friends requiring an engine removal I will make a video for you! :-)
what a dude, thanks for the great video!
Happy to help!
Reminds me of the day's when I did a mini head
Enjoyed the vid as I wanted to see how it all worked as I have a Reliant 850 engine which is a cousin of the A series both being derived from the Austin 7 engines, btw have you tried a ClickAdjust tool which was almost designed around the A series and is a great tool for doing the lock nuts up.
Nice I had no idea those were cousin motors. :-) I am not familiar with this tool do you have a link to it?
Yes Reliant bought the sidevalve tooling from Austin-Morris turning to an all alloy evolution with the 750 then the 850cc lumps which visually are identical to an A series, I am a great fan of the A series engine as its such a treat to work on and yet is just so feisty for its size.
is this a 1275?
Yes it was technically it's a 1293 now.
Do you need any sealant on the gasket?
No !
could you please give a list of tools that you used during this
1. A full socket set (depending on the head stud nuts you may need 12 point sockets)
2. Torque Wrench - Absolutely required to do properly
3. Valve clearance shim tool - they sell these at basically any auto parts store. Just ask and they will point you in the right direction
4. Flathead screw driver
5. Spanner set
6. Nice set of gloves
cheers
Looks like your fan is installed backwards.
Indeed it was. Not sure if it was during engine rebuild most recently or during some other maintenance I must have put it on backwards. Thankfully now that its 97-101 in NC these days it's on the correct way. Thanks for the heads up!
are you going to MME?
I would really like to however I am not sure I can get off work to come up there. It's 50/50 right now.
Love this!
+Jason Day Thanks!
+Classic Mini DIY Hey Mini DIY, just about to do a head gasket myself and curious what else you would change or look out for while doing this? (1991 SPi Mini, oil in coolant symptom)
+Jason Day Hey Jason, when you take the head off you will probably be able to see where the gasket itself is split allowing oil to move into the coolant. Also on the face of the block and head check for scoring or blow by marks which generally look burnt. Also if the blow by is really big I would consider taking the head to a machine shop and having them confirm the face is still all even so that it seals nicely with the new head gasket.
+Classic Mini DIY Perfect thank you! Now just got to wait for the parts to come from england! Anywhere we can go (forum maybe) to see what your current setup is? Beautiful mini you have
+Jason Day Thanks for the kind words. I have an album(way too big) of the whole resto process minus the most recent few months. Here's a link to it: imgur.com/a/MN0wx#0
On most all the mini forums out there I am SomethingNew71
minimania.com
theminiforum.co.uk
restorationmini.com