Triumph Bonneville T140v - Part 12 - Seven Disc Clutch Upgrade
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video we replace the old original 6 disc clutch with an Aerco 7 disc clutch kit, including new friction plates, steels, springs and spring cups. We do this to improve clutch action and make the old super stiff clutch lever easier to pull, and operate more like a modern clutch.
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SRM pressure plate vastly improves clutch operation on 3 spring Triumphs and BSA's. I did post a link earlier, however it appears to have been deleted.
Hi @p-n, hmm.. not too sure how a comment got deleted by wasn't by me :) I ;did see posts regarding the SRM pressure plate but had to the draw the line cost wise at some point. I still may consider it though. The only issue I have now that the 7 disc clutch plates are installed is with the release point on the clutch lever being right at the end of the throw. Would the SRM clutch plate help with this and if so, how? Are there other ways to change the clutch lever engagement point? Really appreciate the comment and all your input!
I replied to your reply with an explanation and the link and it was automatically removed again. Google will no doubt come to the rescue.
@p-n, I guess youtube doesn't like hyperlinks... strange. I'll do a google search for 'SRM' and 'clutch engagement point' and see what I get. If it will enable the friction zone to be different at the clutch handle I just may invest in one. Thanks Again!
@@MadTinkerman SRM clutch pressure plate search should do the trick. It employs a needle roller lift mechanism and a no flex pressure plate.
@p--n, thanks! I took your advice and found the SRM website as well as one or two videos and it does look like a great addition (you're convincing me). I've just ordered new Amal Premiers for the bike and once I have them fitted and tuned, I may order the SRM plate and install it. I really like the design and the concept makes good sense to me. I haven't seen anywhere that it changes the friction zone / engagement point at the lever though, have you?
The clutch lever cable needs adjusting now, you need 1/8” play at the lever, you’ll know if it’s not right, because you’ll have a clicking noise when the lever is pulled fully in, there should be no clicking, 1/8”play should give you the biting point halfway. Did you loosen the cable right off at the handlebars first before adjusting the Centre nut in the clutch. Hope that helps.⚙️🔩🔧🇬🇧👍
Hi @martindavies8326, thanks so much for the information about how best to set up the clutch lever! I set up the lever as you've described with the 1/8" of play and no clicks! ...but the biting/engagement point was still way out at the very end of the throw. I've chatted with a number of other folks who seem to have the same experience with the 7 disc clutch. For some people that have big hands, having the engagement point 'way out there' isn't that bad, but I have small'ish hands and it's a bit of a struggle. That said, I found a way to resolve it with a simple reversible modification to the OEM Triumph clutch lever which is working really well so far. I did a video on that mod and would be quite interested in what you think of it. Here's a link to that video: th-cam.com/video/DV3kxgZJmx0/w-d-xo.html
@@MadTinkerman Hi there yes I watched that one after I wrote the comment, if that works for you that should be ok as long as the spring is not too strong, you don’t want it to cause any drag on the clutch, I’ve got a 7 plate conversion on my 69 Daytona 500 and I’ve adjusted it to bite halfway with a quarter of an inch free play with out any modification, it might be because it’s a 500 that it works ok, I know the bigger bikes are harder to pull in the clutch than the smaller 500, but I not sure if the levers are the same size on all the Triumphs.
PS I also have small hands 🫣😂😆⚙️🔩🔧🇬🇧👍
@martindavies8326, good to know you think the spring mod on the lever is 'okay'. The amount of tension on that spring would be measured in ounces and it is just enough to take up the slack, but nowhere near enough force to begin actuating the clutch, so there's zero risk of drag. It's just a tiny spring. I can't reallly think of a downside but I am the human guinea pig and actively testing it. So far I have about 50 miles on it, so we'll see. I'll definitely let you know and do a follow up video update if anything arises. Also good to know I am not the only one with small hands :) ...neither of us will read anything into that :) Cheers!
Hi a lot of people seem to have trouble with Amal carbs these days, the main problems i have had is slide wear or pilot air ways blocked. & improper mounting to manifold, i have had Amals re sleeved & fitted new slides in the past, but in thirty years of Triumph ownership i have never bought a new carburetor. Have you heard of a channel called Lumad he is no longer with us sadly passed away a couple of years ago but his videos are still on you tube soley on Triumph's he was from the UK & is proper old school worth a watch.
All the best
Baz in the UK
Hi @bazxl57, really appreciate your sharing your experiences with the Amal carbs and that you have never had the need or requirement to buy new ones. Rightly or wrongly (perhaps the latter) I have some new Amals on order and expect to receive them in week or two. I am quite certain the carbs I have are original 1977 issue and are definitely leaking air amongst other things. Separately, YES, I have watched many of the late Lumad's videos and they are excellent and a wealth of knowledge. Wish he were still around to do more of them in high definition, but still his channel is an amazing resource. A big loss for all of us but he lives on and continues to share his guidance and wisdom through that channel. For others that may be reading this post, I also highly recommend his channel.
Glad you mentioned the friction zone. Maybe someone will comment on how to adjust that. The friction zone on my 78 T140 (w/ 7 plate conversion)is also at the very end of the lever. Every time I look on-line, the only fix I can find is to adjust the cable to there's more slack in it, which isn't exactly the fix I'm looking for. My clutch was a little grabby at first. I had used 650 springs when I first did it. I went back in to try to adjust it a bit and put the 750 springs back to see the difference. There wasn't a huge difference on mine. The 650 springs are lighter but their longer. Not sure about the 500 springs. I adjusted the screws in a little and the grabbiness went away but I'm still at the end of the lever with the friction zone. Maybe adjusting the screws out a little would help. I don't know.
Hi @daveco1270, thanks so much for sharing your experience with the 7 disc clutch mod on your '78 T140! You and I have practically the same bike and very interesting that you have the same friction zone issue that I do even though you have it set up with the 650 springs and tried the 750 springs too. I am having the same issue on 500cc springs so I think that fully rules out it being the springs, but your idea that it may be the spring nut adjustment might be accurate. This is one where we really need help from others to nail-the-jello-to-the-wall and determine what process to follow to adjust the release point. If I can't figure it out, I think I may hunt around for a vintage looking clutch lever that is fully adjustable. That won't solve the problem but would hopefully shorten the throw so at least the friction zone is closer to the handle... Would far prefer to adjust it though. Let me know if you ever figure this out and I'll do likewise :) Cheers!
You don't need a gasket for clutch cover..red hematite seals it until its starts misting then take c.over off clean reapply etc
Hi @radboo4384, hey thanks very much for the tip on the red hematite! Just did a quick google search on it and apparently it is no longer available, but the substitute is Hylotyte red. I'll definitely give that a try when I have the cover off next. Really appreciate it! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Cheers!
@@MadTinkerman saves pennies (gaskets)
Is that a 71/72 650 tank? The chrome trim is throwing me. Does it have the two bolts on the bottom with the metal bracket or no?
Hi @daveco1270, great question! I have only had the bike since March 29th so I really don't know. You could be right, the tank might be from another year. The only bolt that secures the tank is the one that comes off the frame and goes up through the centre of the tank. There are no other brackets on the bottom of the tank. So from that, do you figure it's from '71/'72?
Its called the clutch lever, and dont stand so close to the camera...
@matthewhalpin8351 thanks so much for the constructive feedback. I really appreciate it and will take note of that going forward. Last thing anybody wants to see, is me up close :) If you haven't done so already, please subscribe! I really appreciate it! Cheers