I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Fix one problem and another springs up a few months later. Maybe I'm a masochist, but keeping these old bikes on the road is part of the thrill 😂
Hi @tpolskiii, thanks so much for your kind word and taking the time to leave a comment! Really appreciate the feedback. Yeah, you are totally right. Working on these bikes and keeping them going is part of the experience, just as much as riding is! Like you say, working on the bikes is weirdly enjoyable :) Especially so, when you get them fixed and get out on the road. Thanks Again, and if you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it!
Brilliant! Many thanks for producing and sharing this. I know the feeling. I've had my T140 for a couple of months now. Two rides......two times having to fix it LoL but I'm absolutely loving it and learning a whole lot as I go! These videos are fabulous and a massive help!
@pleasantstrummer thanks so much for the kind words and great feedback! Great news that you've picked up a T140 as well and 'enjoying the ride' ! Almost as much fun to work on these bikes as it is to ride them! Thanks again for the comment and if you haven't already, please subscribe. Really appreciate it!
I had one of these when i was 17 years old and that was 50 years ago. To adjust the clutch plate you need to pull in the clutch leaver in after adjusting the play in the system. Sit aside the machine pull in the clutch leaver and then use the kick starter to rotate the gearbox and clutch and look down and see if you have any wobble in the clutch plate, adjust the springs until the clutch pate is not wobbling while rotating. If you fully assemble and have trouble with it dragging then it is because you have not taken out the total wobble.
@kayak1100, thanks so much for the tip, especially the information that the clutch lever should be depressed when doing the adjustment. When I did it I put the bike in gear off the ground and rotated the back tire which then spun the clutch basket and used that method to adjust until there was no wobble. I'll give your method a try next time I work on the clutch. Very much appreciate you watching the video and taking the time to provide this info. If you haven't already, please subscribe. I Really Appreciate it!! Cheers.
I just restored a 69' Tiger 650, even after the restoration is completed, the work never stops! Cool vids man, keep them coming, I am sure your bike will bring you plenty of opportunites to make videos lol
@jontg429, wow a '69 Tiger 650 that's awesome. A true classic! You're so right, the work never stops on these bikes as there's always something that needs maintenance of some sort. The tinkering with these old vintage bikes is half of the fun ...at least that's what I keep telling myself :) Thanks so much for watching the videos! Really appreciate it. Enjoy your classic '69 Tiger and cheers from Canada!
Hi @radboo4384, you're right :)! They're perfect when they work :) Thanks very much for your comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe. I'd really appreciate it! Cheers!
Oh man, this happens all the time. Super common and easy to fix without a tear down. Since the kick start goes through the clutch, just kick the bike over with the clutch pulled in. Do this a few times it will come loose. If for some reason it does not, go ahead and start the bike, then get it rolling down your driveway or a slight hill or whatever you have. Once it is above a walking pace with the engine running at idle the bike will slip into first or 2nd easily with a little rev manipulation. Once you are moving and in gear, shift into 3rd or 4th, pull in the clutch and rev the motor and it will for sure break loose immediately. Rarely need the second procedure since pulling in the clutch and kicking will get it free after a few tries every time that I can remember. Some say it can be prevented with careful setting of the springs on the clutch, but in my experience they all eventually stick when parked for a while.
@jameshisself7375, thanks so much for sharing this info! This is my first vintage Triumph so wasn't aware of this sort of issue. I know now to kick the bike over a few times with the clutch lever engaged to free it up before starting. Taking it apart and cleaning up the friction plates and steels really helped too. Thanks again for watching the video and leaving a comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it!
You can stop from getting a stuck clutch by making more use of the motorcycle, also make sure you fit the correct plates and use the correct oil too .. I've got 2 T140' s with no problems summer and winter ..
@sparky4152003, totally agree with you that the more you use the bike, the less likely you are to experience these issues as using the bike, keeps the clutch discs clean and smooth. Like all mechanical stuff, have them sit around, usused, is never good. Great to hear of your experience with your two T140's and that you don't have these sorts of problems. Really appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe. Cheers!
Fairly normal for clutch plates to stick when the bike is stood. Try different oil. Pull the clutch in and kick over the bike to free the clutch plates or put the bike in second gear and pull in the clutch, rocking the bike in gear may free the plates. Others have said adjust the clutch spring tension so the pressure plate spins true with no wobble. Make sure you don't over tighten the clutch springs too.
@tokairic3925, thanks so much for sharing this info! This is the first bike I have had where if you let the bike sit that the clutch plates can stick. Owning a vintage Triumph requires a fairly steep learning curve from other, especially Japanese, bikes. That said I am really enjoying this bike along with all it's quirks and idiosyncrasies. I know now to kick the bike over a few times with the clutch lever engaged to free up the plates prior to starting. You're right about getting it set up right, especially to remove any wobble. Took me a bit to get it right, but once set up, I am no longer having issues with it sticking.
I have a Yamaha XJ6S Diversion 2011 and I put new friction plates in the clutch myself in April '21 because the clutch was slipping. The next time I came to use the bike the clutch was stuck on and the friction plates had swollen so I had to take the cove back off to adjust the screw and lock nut again. I still strap the clutch lever down between rides. The clutch behaves perfectly when riding the bike.
@diversionbob8482 that's really interesting! I have had a number of motorcycles, but I guess I have lead a sheltered life because I had never heard of the practice of needing to strap down the clutch handle to keep a clutch from sticking. I am learning something new :) ...and equally interesting that you have experienced this issue on a Yamaha. I thought this was purely a British Bike thing, but I guess not. Thanks so much for your comment!
@@BLUESBOYBENFIELD good to know! If I have any other issues, I am definitely going to order a SRM pressure plate an install it. Thanks so much for your input. If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it.
Those bolts (or captive nuts) were really far out. Like something quit half way through the job. I did the 7 plate clutch conversion on mine, which makes the clutch a lot lighter. My 750 came with the hardest clutch lever I've ever felt. I had to do something about it. When I put everything back together I refilled the primary with 350cc of oil not realizing that the manual says to prime it with 118cc and the engine breather holes will do the rest. In the front of the manual it says the primary capacity is 350cc's which is what I put into it the first time around. I had to empty a bunch of oil out. Then the clutch worked fine.
Hi @daveco1270, I am also seriously considering the 7 plate conversion kit. I am in Canada and the Aerco kit is more available to me than the Hyde and it appears to have good reviews so thinking I may pull the trigger and purchase it soon, as you're right. Now that the clutch is properly assembled and adjusted, it takes significant effort to pull in the clutch lever. Curious to know which kit you purchased?
@@MadTinkerman I'm pretty sure I got the Aerco kit. It works great. My clutch lever has a much lighter pull on it now. It was a little tricky adjusting the clutch. I turned the adjuster screw in until I felt pressure then turned it out a half turn, maybe even a smidge less than half a turn, otherwise I'd get that clicking sound that's apparently not good. (Still not sure what causes that clicking sound when you're out of adjustment.) Being my first time doing a clutch, I wasn't sure how tight to go on the captive nuts on the pressure plate. I think I set them similar to what you did with yours. Also, I soaked the friction plates in oil before putting them on, but they stuck together and it was hard to free up the clutch, so i took it apart and wiped them down then put them back together. Then it worked a lot better. So going in with the plats dry might be the way to do it. And like I said before, you don't put the full capacity 350cc's of oil back into the primary. My manual says to prime it with 118cc's or some equivalent measurement. It'll slowly find the right level apparently.
@@daveco1270 The click sound is the 3 ball ramp plate in right hand cover going too far.. . Be sure to loosen clutch cable before attempting to adjust pushrod on clutch basket.
Not sure is your adjustments resolved the click on operating the clutch. When I rebuilt my clutch, it started making that noise. I saw a "raber's tech tip #1" video that explained what was causing it. As I recall, the fix was to slacken off the clutch cable at the lever, then adjusting the clutch push rod (in the center of clutch basket. Needs to be screwed in to to make contact, then backed off a 1/2 to 3/4 slack. Without that play, the lever is overextending the lift mechanism and snapping the ball bearing out of its keeper. Also, really good is lunmads video on how to balance the clutch basket so there is no wobble. He did it by kicking over the bike with the clutch lever engaged, a bit easier to see the wobble than when you turn it by hand.
Hi @DodgyBagehot, you're absolutely right about the clutch adjustment and works exactly as you have described. That process fully resolves the annoying 'clicking' that can occur when the clutch is maladjusted. Lunmad's videos are great and I have watched many of them too. Sorry to know that he has passed on, but he lives on his videos, continuing to provide great advice. The main issue I had other than just a stuck clutch was how hard the clutch lever was to pull combined with the engagement point being right at the end of the throw (when correctly adjusted). Both of those problems are now fixed. In this video I installed a 7 disc clutch with reduced the amount of force needed to pull in the clutch lever: th-cam.com/video/yGT0_aIy-4I/w-d-xo.html Then I did a very easy modification to change the engagement point of the clutch (while still adjusted correctly), enabling the engagement point to move closer to the handlebar rather than at the end of the throw: th-cam.com/video/DV3kxgZJmx0/w-d-xo.html Can't thank you enough for your comment and for watching the videos! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it!
@@MadTinkerman my 77 t140 had only 4k on it when I got it in 2019 , last registered in 1981. While the clutch had seized (of course), once I cleaned it up, the stack was well within spec. So I kept them. I have heard others say the clutch on these bikes is stiff, I have not found that to be the case. I wonder if different model years had different leverage on the handle. I did rebuild it, replaced the liquidfied rubber bumpers (whatever those are called) checked the rear thrust washer etc and lubed roller bearings. the basket needed a little clean up. I have found that if I don't clear the clutch an hour or so after a ride, it will get stuck. If rocking the bike in gear is not enough, you can always put it on center stand, start it up and put in gear, wait for it to warm up a bit, then ease on the back brake while holding clutch lever in. (Of course, keep front brake engaged, and weight forward to keep rear wheel up) In terms of operation, smooth shifting, no slipping, no clunks, I've had no problem with the original clutch plates. The trick of taking some pressure off the clutch by engaging clutch with a strap or something while it cools off might seem peculiar, but it is cheap. I'll run these until they are out of spec and then see what the modern materials are like. The original friction plate material looked like cork to me. Don't know.
HI @DodgyBagehot what a find! A 1977 bike with only 4K on it and not registered since 1981 is amazing and pretty much unobtanium if you were trying to find one! That's great that were you were able to save the old clutch discs by cleaning them up. By taking it apart and cleaning up the discs and clutch basket I was able to save mine as well and rode it for a while but the clutch lever was still quite stiff. I measured 43lbs of pressure (using an old fish scale) to pull the lever and, although not totally necessary as there was plenty of clutch material, I decided to swap it out. When I did the seven disc clutch mod I measured the old and new clutch plates with my caliper and interestingly the old clutch plates were a little bit larger than spec, which I found weird and I think that may have been the issue on my bike. The seven disc clutch are smaller than spec of course to allow for the 7th disc. Not sure if someone put the wrong fibre plates in it or if they were just manufactured poorly or what. In any event changing them out made a huge difference and now it only takes 17lbs of pressure to pull in the lever, so about 2.5x improvement and zero issues with the clutch sticking so far. I just clear the clutch before I start it each time by pulling in the lever and giving it a couple of kicks. For your bike with the original discs, apparently back in the day most guys put a rubber band or vise grips or something else to hold the clutch lever depressed after each ride, so that's probably the thing to do, although seemingly a bit weird, if it works that might be the thing to do with a bit of a nod to how it was done back in the day. Thanks again for the comment and have fun riding the great bike!
It's not the adjustment. Use the correct wet clutch motorcycle engine oil. Just kick the clutch loose before starting the engine, they all stick after a while.
Hi @peterboerema7260 thanks very much for the comment! I am using 20/50 motorcycle oil in the bike and did try kicking the bike over repeatedly. I also tried rocking the bike back and forth repeatedly over the course of a couple of days, but to no avail. That's why I resorted to taking the bike apart to see what was going on. I found that the nuts holding the springs down were significantly out of adjustment, with the top of the bolts sitting more than 3/8" below the slot in the spring nut slots. Given the nuts were this loose the outer basket and inner hub were able to 'wiggle' independently of each other, causing the clutch to bind. This is a new bike for me so a mystery as to why those spring nuts were so loose, but guessing it was attempt by the prior owner to achieve an easier to pull clutch handle. Thanks again for your comment and if you haven't already, please subscribe. I would really appreciate it :)
No need for upgrade clutch plates. Set them up right and ride it regularly. I've used standard Triumph clutches for years in the past without any issues. Even run dry exposed on race bikes no problem.
Hi @tokairic3925, thanks so much for sharing your experience regarding the Triumph clutch! You're right! After I took it apart, cleaned up all the plates and took all the rust / deburring off the steels, it worked perfectly once installed properly per the manual and guidance from others like yourself. The only issue I had with it is how much effort it took to pull the clutch lever. I replaced the original with a 7 disc Airco clutch kit and that reduced the amount of effort from ~40 lbs measured at the lever to 18 lbs of effort. If you want to see that video, and the measurements before and after, here's the link: th-cam.com/video/yGT0_aIy-4I/w-d-xo.html Thanks again for leaving a comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe! I Really appreciate it!
Clutches on old Britbikes were not made of the finest steel. The usual cause of clutch drag is burs on the little tabs on the friction and steel plates. Grinding the burs off can make a big difference, I suspect a former owner had the adjusters so far out to reduce the clutch effort. I don't see how that can be the cause of the sticking though. One of the comments below shows how to reduce the wobble. It does not look as if you need new clutch parts. You should always use a new gasket on the primary case. When starting my bike I always free up the clutch by kicking it over a couple times with the clutch disengaged.
Hi @johndesmond1987, thanks so much for these tips! After I cleaned up the clutch steels and thoroughly cleaned everything, it worked fine. The only issue I had was how hard it was to pull the clutch lever, so decided to pull the trigger and purchased a 7 disc clutch kit which made a huge difference! I did a video on that as well. I measured the amount of pull it took to engage the lever both before the 7 disc clutch mod and after, and it's incredible what a huge, measurable, difference it made. Here's the link to that video if you're interested in seeing it: th-cam.com/video/yGT0_aIy-4I/w-d-xo.html When I first purchased this old girl I had no idea you were to kick it over a few times with the clutch lever engaged before starting; but because of your comments and others, I do now. Greatly appreciate you watching videos and sharing your thoughts! Cheers!
Where are you located? I'm in Mississauga. Are you a CVMG member? If not, you should really investigate the group. My '77 T140 is one of my newer bikes.
@johndesmond1987, firstly thanks so much to watching the videos! I am a fellow Canuck located in Maple Ridge, a suburb of Vancouver. Cool that you're in Mississauga. No I am not a member of the CVMG and in fact had never heard of it until your note. Took a quick gander at the website and looks pretty cool. I'll definitely consider joining as I have 5 collector bikes and quite enjoy wrenching on them. That's awesome that you have a '77 T140 too and also have a collection of older bikes. Very cool. If you haven't already, please subscribe. Really appreciate the info!
Hi @carlnapp4412, the front tire is a DURO and it is mounted on an AKRONT rim. The mufflers are Norton pea shooters and I would expect they would fit your T120 OIF no problem. The kick starter I believe is OEM Triumph T140v. Thanks so much for your questions and for watching the Triumph videos! If you haven't already, please subscribe! I Really appreciate it!
STOP THE PRESS: 45 year + motorcycle has previously had the clutch apart. ! Mount a sharpie barely touching the pressure plate , substitute a dial gauge if you have one to hand, disengage the clutch while kicking over getting any witness line as even, fine and consistent as possible indicates good even lift. Triumph twin is a 'lawn mower engine' , you can't go far wrong.
@dogpaw775...Hysterical! Yeah, I guess I shouldn't have been so surprised to see that the clutch had been apart before ! :) Your ideas on how to balance the pressure plate are really good ones. I don't yet have a dial gouge so I'll give your sharpie idea a go next time I open up the primary. I am seriously considering a 7 disc kit, so I'll definitely do that if/when I open her back up. Thanks Again for the info and feedback, I really appreciate it!
Hi @johnpetermoeller4783, that's a great idea! Using a magnet to remove the clutch plates would definitely be easier. I'll keep this in mind for next time! Thanks so much for your comment, and if you haven't already, please subscribe. Really appreciate it!
@king_slayer6631, thanks so much for the kind feedback and for watching the videos! I thin you're right and agree with you that the very best initial adjustment of the clutch is to have the bolts adjusted flush with the nuts. Appreciate the tip!
Hi @lesjones7617, appreciate the advice. I did that repeatedly. Also did the trick of putting it in gear and rocking it forward with the clutch lever in, but nothing would unstick it. I ended up taking the clutch apart and cleaning the discs, which worked and got it back to 'normal' again. Still wasn't happy with how hard it was to depress the clutch lever though so installed a seven disc clutch on it, and now it's vastly improved. I did a video on that too, so you might be interested in watching it. If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate the assistance and feedback. Cheers!
Hello; is not clearly why so stuck? How much you screw the clutch adjusters in depend on the thickness of the plates pack. In the manual says the thickness and mention to flush with the bolts but that is a reference due to the worn out of a used plate so you should screw them a bit more. Do the math. However; if you use a 7 plate kit (I have a Hyde one in a 79 and a MAP 6 plates on other 79) you need to measure again to decide. No slip no drag and no stuck ever with the MAP clutch. Possible the same with the Hyde but I do not have thousands of km on it yet. --Is important to understand that the clutch do not need oil; the oil is for the chain mainly; so the plates should be assembled dry -check the spring length (see manual) May be they are worn out hence you need to screw in more... -When assembling you put 150cc of oil and nothing more. -Other thing to do is align both sprockets; if you check the parts book you will see that there is a number for the shims required. By the way I put around 10000km per year in these bikes mostly with success but is imperative before that to get rid of all the crap that PO s have been butchering and malpractice on them.
Hi @TheReverb1 thanks so much for the great information and advice! Since that video I have installed a 7 disc clutch kit by Aerco. I am in Canada and the Hyde kit would have taken longer to get here but apparently the Aerco is very similiar to the Hyde that you have. It has made a huge difference in terms of how hard the clutch lever was to operate and the clutch no longer sticks. I have done a video on that job too. If you haven't already, please subscribe! I really appreciate it!
Hi @russturner1570 thanks so much for this tip! I did visually inspect the hub to check for grooving but didn't fully remove the hub as it looked to be in good condition. If ever I have similar issues again, I'll know to remove the hub. I have since installed a 7 disc clutch kit and it is working fantastic, with zero sticking issues. Here's the link to that video: th-cam.com/video/yGT0_aIy-4I/w-d-xo.html Really appreciate you taking the time to share this advice and comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe! I really appreciate it!
@@MadTinkerman yeah, I agree the clutch basket and hub looked a bit loose. Two separate adjustments. The owner that backed the shit out of the clutch retaining bolts may have gotten further into that clutch. I'd read about what happens if either the hub or basket fail. I imagine it would be expensive if not dangerous. Triumphrat and britbike are good discussion groups. I'm sure there are others.
It can be oil on the plates, when renewing the engine oil, if too much oil is put in crankcase it will breathe through into the primary case. Suction causes the plates to bind, the only way to free them is to strip the clutch and wash them in spirit to de grease.
@georgemoskal2098 that's interesting! Thanks very much for sharing this info! If you haven't already please subscribe as I could really use a few more subscribers :) Appreciate the feedback!
Hi @sundayhinojosa8114, another great idea! Anytime you can include duct tape as part of the repair process, you should :) ! Thanks Again for the comment and the great idea!
Hi @sundayhinojosa8114, great idea! I had some flat aluminum bar so made a tool out of that which worked well. The screwdriver idea would be more durable though so will keep my eyes open for one with a super wide blade. Appreciate the input. If you haven't already, please subscribe. I'd really appreciate it. Cheers!
![Making a Transalp 1995 like new! [NK-E2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ryWhpdaB8XY/mqdefault.jpg)
I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Fix one problem and another springs up a few months later. Maybe I'm a masochist, but keeping these old bikes on the road is part of the thrill 😂
Hi @tpolskiii, thanks so much for your kind word and taking the time to leave a comment! Really appreciate the feedback. Yeah, you are totally right. Working on these bikes and keeping them going is part of the experience, just as much as riding is! Like you say, working on the bikes is weirdly enjoyable :) Especially so, when you get them fixed and get out on the road. Thanks Again, and if you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it!
Brilliant! Many thanks for producing and sharing this. I know the feeling. I've had my T140 for a couple of months now. Two rides......two times having to fix it LoL but I'm absolutely loving it and learning a whole lot as I go! These videos are fabulous and a massive help!
@pleasantstrummer thanks so much for the kind words and great feedback! Great news that you've picked up a T140 as well and 'enjoying the ride' ! Almost as much fun to work on these bikes as it is to ride them! Thanks again for the comment and if you haven't already, please subscribe. Really appreciate it!
I had one of these when i was 17 years old and that was 50 years ago. To adjust the clutch plate you need to pull in the clutch leaver in after adjusting the play in the system. Sit aside the machine pull in the clutch leaver and then use the kick starter to rotate the gearbox and clutch and look down and see if you have any wobble in the clutch plate, adjust the springs until the clutch pate is not wobbling while rotating. If you fully assemble and have trouble with it dragging then it is because you have not taken out the total wobble.
@kayak1100, thanks so much for the tip, especially the information that the clutch lever should be depressed when doing the adjustment. When I did it I put the bike in gear off the ground and rotated the back tire which then spun the clutch basket and used that method to adjust until there was no wobble. I'll give your method a try next time I work on the clutch. Very much appreciate you watching the video and taking the time to provide this info. If you haven't already, please subscribe. I Really Appreciate it!! Cheers.
I just restored a 69' Tiger 650, even after the restoration is completed, the work never stops! Cool vids man, keep them coming, I am sure your bike will bring you plenty of opportunites to make videos lol
@jontg429, wow a '69 Tiger 650 that's awesome. A true classic! You're so right, the work never stops on these bikes as there's always something that needs maintenance of some sort. The tinkering with these old vintage bikes is half of the fun ...at least that's what I keep telling myself :) Thanks so much for watching the videos! Really appreciate it. Enjoy your classic '69 Tiger and cheers from Canada!
These clutches work fine 🎉
Hi @radboo4384, you're right :)! They're perfect when they work :) Thanks very much for your comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe. I'd really appreciate it! Cheers!
Oh man, this happens all the time. Super common and easy to fix without a tear down. Since the kick start goes through the clutch, just kick the bike over with the clutch pulled in. Do this a few times it will come loose.
If for some reason it does not, go ahead and start the bike, then get it rolling down your driveway or a slight hill or whatever you have. Once it is above a walking pace with the engine running at idle the bike will slip into first or 2nd easily with a little rev manipulation. Once you are moving and in gear, shift into 3rd or 4th, pull in the clutch and rev the motor and it will for sure break loose immediately. Rarely need the second procedure since pulling in the clutch and kicking will get it free after a few tries every time that I can remember.
Some say it can be prevented with careful setting of the springs on the clutch, but in my experience they all eventually stick when parked for a while.
@jameshisself7375, thanks so much for sharing this info! This is my first vintage Triumph so wasn't aware of this sort of issue. I know now to kick the bike over a few times with the clutch lever engaged to free it up before starting. Taking it apart and cleaning up the friction plates and steels really helped too. Thanks again for watching the video and leaving a comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it!
You can stop from getting a stuck clutch by making more use of the motorcycle, also make sure you fit the correct plates and use the correct oil too .. I've got 2 T140' s with no problems summer and winter ..
@sparky4152003, totally agree with you that the more you use the bike, the less likely you are to experience these issues as using the bike, keeps the clutch discs clean and smooth. Like all mechanical stuff, have them sit around, usused, is never good. Great to hear of your experience with your two T140's and that you don't have these sorts of problems. Really appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe. Cheers!
Fairly normal for clutch plates to stick when the bike is stood. Try different oil. Pull the clutch in and kick over the bike to free the clutch plates or put the bike in second gear and pull in the clutch, rocking the bike in gear may free the plates.
Others have said adjust the clutch spring tension so the pressure plate spins true with no wobble.
Make sure you don't over tighten the clutch springs too.
@tokairic3925, thanks so much for sharing this info! This is the first bike I have had where if you let the bike sit that the clutch plates can stick. Owning a vintage Triumph requires a fairly steep learning curve from other, especially Japanese, bikes. That said I am really enjoying this bike along with all it's quirks and idiosyncrasies. I know now to kick the bike over a few times with the clutch lever engaged to free up the plates prior to starting. You're right about getting it set up right, especially to remove any wobble. Took me a bit to get it right, but once set up, I am no longer having issues with it sticking.
I have a Yamaha XJ6S Diversion 2011 and I put new friction plates in the clutch myself in April '21 because the clutch was slipping. The next time I came to use the bike the clutch was stuck on and the friction plates had swollen so I had to take the cove back off to adjust the screw and lock nut again. I still strap the clutch lever down between rides. The clutch behaves perfectly when riding the bike.
@diversionbob8482 that's really interesting! I have had a number of motorcycles, but I guess I have lead a sheltered life because I had never heard of the practice of needing to strap down the clutch handle to keep a clutch from sticking. I am learning something new :) ...and equally interesting that you have experienced this issue on a Yamaha. I thought this was purely a British Bike thing, but I guess not. Thanks so much for your comment!
An SRM pressure plate with needle bearing lift mechanism helps too.
Hi @p-n, interesting info about the SRM pressure plate. I'll check it out! Thanks!
Yes, been running one on my Triumphs for decades
@@BLUESBOYBENFIELD good to know! If I have any other issues, I am definitely going to order a SRM pressure plate an install it. Thanks so much for your input. If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it.
Another great vid bud.
@FuriousGriffin thanks so much! Appreciate it!
Those bolts (or captive nuts) were really far out. Like something quit half way through the job. I did the 7 plate clutch conversion on mine, which makes the clutch a lot lighter. My 750 came with the hardest clutch lever I've ever felt. I had to do something about it.
When I put everything back together I refilled the primary with 350cc of oil not realizing that the manual says to prime it with 118cc and the engine breather holes will do the rest. In the front of the manual it says the primary capacity is 350cc's which is what I put into it the first time around. I had to empty a bunch of oil out. Then the clutch worked fine.
Hi @daveco1270, I am also seriously considering the 7 plate conversion kit. I am in Canada and the Aerco kit is more available to me than the Hyde and it appears to have good reviews so thinking I may pull the trigger and purchase it soon, as you're right. Now that the clutch is properly assembled and adjusted, it takes significant effort to pull in the clutch lever. Curious to know which kit you purchased?
@@MadTinkerman I'm pretty sure I got the Aerco kit. It works great. My clutch lever has a much lighter pull on it now. It was a little tricky adjusting the clutch. I turned the adjuster screw in until I felt pressure then turned it out a half turn, maybe even a smidge less than half a turn, otherwise I'd get that clicking sound that's apparently not good. (Still not sure what causes that clicking sound when you're out of adjustment.) Being my first time doing a clutch, I wasn't sure how tight to go on the captive nuts on the pressure plate. I think I set them similar to what you did with yours. Also, I soaked the friction plates in oil before putting them on, but they stuck together and it was hard to free up the clutch, so i took it apart and wiped them down then put them back together. Then it worked a lot better. So going in with the plats dry might be the way to do it. And like I said before, you don't put the full capacity 350cc's of oil back into the primary. My manual says to prime it with 118cc's or some equivalent measurement. It'll slowly find the right level apparently.
@@daveco1270 The click sound is the 3 ball ramp plate in right hand cover going too far.. . Be sure to loosen clutch cable before attempting to adjust pushrod on clutch basket.
Not sure is your adjustments resolved the click on operating the clutch. When I rebuilt my clutch, it started making that noise. I saw a "raber's tech tip #1" video that explained what was causing it. As I recall, the fix was to slacken off the clutch cable at the lever, then adjusting the clutch push rod (in the center of clutch basket. Needs to be screwed in to to make contact, then backed off a 1/2 to 3/4 slack. Without that play, the lever is overextending the lift mechanism and snapping the ball bearing out of its keeper. Also, really good is lunmads video on how to balance the clutch basket so there is no wobble. He did it by kicking over the bike with the clutch lever engaged, a bit easier to see the wobble than when you turn it by hand.
Hi @DodgyBagehot, you're absolutely right about the clutch adjustment and works exactly as you have described. That process fully resolves the annoying 'clicking' that can occur when the clutch is maladjusted. Lunmad's videos are great and I have watched many of them too. Sorry to know that he has passed on, but he lives on his videos, continuing to provide great advice. The main issue I had other than just a stuck clutch was how hard the clutch lever was to pull combined with the engagement point being right at the end of the throw (when correctly adjusted). Both of those problems are now fixed. In this video I installed a 7 disc clutch with reduced the amount of force needed to pull in the clutch lever: th-cam.com/video/yGT0_aIy-4I/w-d-xo.html Then I did a very easy modification to change the engagement point of the clutch (while still adjusted correctly), enabling the engagement point to move closer to the handlebar rather than at the end of the throw: th-cam.com/video/DV3kxgZJmx0/w-d-xo.html Can't thank you enough for your comment and for watching the videos! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it!
@@MadTinkerman my 77 t140 had only 4k on it when I got it in 2019 , last registered in 1981. While the clutch had seized (of course), once I cleaned it up, the stack was well within spec. So I kept them. I have heard others say the clutch on these bikes is stiff, I have not found that to be the case. I wonder if different model years had different leverage on the handle. I did rebuild it, replaced the liquidfied rubber bumpers (whatever those are called) checked the rear thrust washer etc and lubed roller bearings. the basket needed a little clean up. I have found that if I don't clear the clutch an hour or so after a ride, it will get stuck. If rocking the bike in gear is not enough, you can always put it on center stand, start it up and put in gear, wait for it to warm up a bit, then ease on the back brake while holding clutch lever in. (Of course, keep front brake engaged, and weight forward to keep rear wheel up) In terms of operation, smooth shifting, no slipping, no clunks, I've had no problem with the original clutch plates. The trick of taking some pressure off the clutch by engaging clutch with a strap or something while it cools off might seem peculiar, but it is cheap. I'll run these until they are out of spec and then see what the modern materials are like. The original friction plate material looked like cork to me. Don't know.
HI @DodgyBagehot what a find! A 1977 bike with only 4K on it and not registered since 1981 is amazing and pretty much unobtanium if you were trying to find one! That's great that were you were able to save the old clutch discs by cleaning them up. By taking it apart and cleaning up the discs and clutch basket I was able to save mine as well and rode it for a while but the clutch lever was still quite stiff. I measured 43lbs of pressure (using an old fish scale) to pull the lever and, although not totally necessary as there was plenty of clutch material, I decided to swap it out. When I did the seven disc clutch mod I measured the old and new clutch plates with my caliper and interestingly the old clutch plates were a little bit larger than spec, which I found weird and I think that may have been the issue on my bike. The seven disc clutch are smaller than spec of course to allow for the 7th disc. Not sure if someone put the wrong fibre plates in it or if they were just manufactured poorly or what. In any event changing them out made a huge difference and now it only takes 17lbs of pressure to pull in the lever, so about 2.5x improvement and zero issues with the clutch sticking so far. I just clear the clutch before I start it each time by pulling in the lever and giving it a couple of kicks. For your bike with the original discs, apparently back in the day most guys put a rubber band or vise grips or something else to hold the clutch lever depressed after each ride, so that's probably the thing to do, although seemingly a bit weird, if it works that might be the thing to do with a bit of a nod to how it was done back in the day. Thanks again for the comment and have fun riding the great bike!
It's not the adjustment. Use the correct wet clutch motorcycle engine oil. Just kick the clutch loose before starting the engine, they all stick after a while.
Hi
@peterboerema7260 thanks very much for the comment! I am using 20/50 motorcycle oil in the bike and did try kicking the bike over repeatedly. I also tried rocking the bike back and forth repeatedly over the course of a couple of days, but to no avail. That's why I resorted to taking the bike apart to see what was going on. I found that the nuts holding the springs down were significantly out of adjustment, with the top of the bolts sitting more than 3/8" below the slot in the spring nut slots. Given the nuts were this loose the outer basket and inner hub were able to 'wiggle' independently of each other, causing the clutch to bind. This is a new bike for me so a mystery as to why those spring nuts were so loose, but guessing it was attempt by the prior owner to achieve an easier to pull clutch handle. Thanks again for your comment and if you haven't already, please subscribe. I would really appreciate it :)
No need for upgrade clutch plates. Set them up right and ride it regularly. I've used standard Triumph clutches for years in the past without any issues. Even run dry exposed on race bikes no problem.
Hi @tokairic3925, thanks so much for sharing your experience regarding the Triumph clutch! You're right! After I took it apart, cleaned up all the plates and took all the rust / deburring off the steels, it worked perfectly once installed properly per the manual and guidance from others like yourself. The only issue I had with it is how much effort it took to pull the clutch lever. I replaced the original with a 7 disc Airco clutch kit and that reduced the amount of effort from ~40 lbs measured at the lever to 18 lbs of effort. If you want to see that video, and the measurements before and after, here's the link: th-cam.com/video/yGT0_aIy-4I/w-d-xo.html Thanks again for leaving a comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe! I Really appreciate it!
Clutches on old Britbikes were not made of the finest steel. The usual cause of clutch drag is burs on the little tabs on the friction and steel plates. Grinding the burs off can make a big difference, I suspect a former owner had the adjusters so far out to reduce the clutch effort. I don't see how that can be the cause of the sticking though. One of the comments below shows how to reduce the wobble. It does not look as if you need new clutch parts. You should always use a new gasket on the primary case.
When starting my bike I always free up the clutch by kicking it over a couple times with the clutch disengaged.
Hi @johndesmond1987, thanks so much for these tips! After I cleaned up the clutch steels and thoroughly cleaned everything, it worked fine. The only issue I had was how hard it was to pull the clutch lever, so decided to pull the trigger and purchased a 7 disc clutch kit which made a huge difference! I did a video on that as well. I measured the amount of pull it took to engage the lever both before the 7 disc clutch mod and after, and it's incredible what a huge, measurable, difference it made. Here's the link to that video if you're interested in seeing it: th-cam.com/video/yGT0_aIy-4I/w-d-xo.html When I first purchased this old girl I had no idea you were to kick it over a few times with the clutch lever engaged before starting; but because of your comments and others, I do now. Greatly appreciate you watching videos and sharing your thoughts! Cheers!
Where are you located? I'm in Mississauga. Are you a CVMG member? If not, you should really investigate the group. My '77 T140 is one of my newer bikes.
@johndesmond1987, firstly thanks so much to watching the videos! I am a fellow Canuck located in Maple Ridge, a suburb of Vancouver. Cool that you're in Mississauga. No I am not a member of the CVMG and in fact had never heard of it until your note. Took a quick gander at the website and looks pretty cool. I'll definitely consider joining as I have 5 collector bikes and quite enjoy wrenching on them. That's awesome that you have a '77 T140 too and also have a collection of older bikes. Very cool. If you haven't already, please subscribe. Really appreciate the info!
What brand and typ is the front tire? Are these mufflers available for the T120 OIF? Get they along with the kickstarter?
Hi @carlnapp4412, the front tire is a DURO and it is mounted on an AKRONT rim. The mufflers are Norton pea shooters and I would expect they would fit your T120 OIF no problem. The kick starter I believe is OEM Triumph T140v. Thanks so much for your questions and for watching the Triumph videos! If you haven't already, please subscribe! I Really appreciate it!
STOP THE PRESS: 45 year + motorcycle has previously had the clutch apart. !
Mount a sharpie barely touching the pressure plate , substitute a dial gauge if you have one to hand, disengage the clutch while kicking over getting any witness line as even, fine and consistent as possible indicates good even lift.
Triumph twin is a 'lawn mower engine' , you can't go far wrong.
@dogpaw775...Hysterical! Yeah, I guess I shouldn't have been so surprised to see that the clutch had been apart before ! :) Your ideas on how to balance the pressure plate are really good ones. I don't yet have a dial gouge so I'll give your sharpie idea a go next time I open up the primary. I am seriously considering a 7 disc kit, so I'll definitely do that if/when I open her back up. Thanks Again for the info and feedback, I really appreciate it!
use a magnet take plates out, easier that way.
Hi @johnpetermoeller4783, that's a great idea! Using a magnet to remove the clutch plates would definitely be easier. I'll keep this in mind for next time! Thanks so much for your comment, and if you haven't already, please subscribe. Really appreciate it!
I think the easiest most accurate way is to have the bolts flush with the top of the nuts...love you vids....john....lreland
@king_slayer6631, thanks so much for the kind feedback and for watching the videos! I thin you're right and agree with you that the very best initial adjustment of the clutch is to have the bolts adjusted flush with the nuts. Appreciate the tip!
Pull the clutch in Kick it over to free it then start the bike??
Hi @lesjones7617, appreciate the advice. I did that repeatedly. Also did the trick of putting it in gear and rocking it forward with the clutch lever in, but nothing would unstick it. I ended up taking the clutch apart and cleaning the discs, which worked and got it back to 'normal' again. Still wasn't happy with how hard it was to depress the clutch lever though so installed a seven disc clutch on it, and now it's vastly improved. I did a video on that too, so you might be interested in watching it. If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate the assistance and feedback. Cheers!
Hello; is not clearly why so stuck?
How much you screw the clutch adjusters in depend on the thickness of the plates pack. In the manual says the thickness and mention to flush with the bolts but that is a reference due to the worn out of a used plate so you should screw them a bit more. Do the math. However; if you use a 7 plate kit (I have a Hyde one in a 79 and a MAP 6 plates on other 79) you need to measure again to decide. No slip no drag and no stuck ever with the MAP clutch. Possible the same with the Hyde but I do not have thousands of km on it yet.
--Is important to understand that the clutch do not need oil; the oil is for the chain mainly; so the plates should be assembled dry
-check the spring length (see manual) May be they are worn out hence you need to screw in more...
-When assembling you put 150cc of oil and nothing more.
-Other thing to do is align both sprockets; if you check the parts book you will see that there is a number for the shims required.
By the way I put around 10000km per year in these bikes mostly with success but is imperative before that to get rid of all the crap that PO s have been butchering and malpractice on them.
Hi @TheReverb1 thanks so much for the great information and advice! Since that video I have installed a 7 disc clutch kit by Aerco. I am in Canada and the Hyde kit would have taken longer to get here but apparently the Aerco is very similiar to the Hyde that you have. It has made a huge difference in terms of how hard the clutch lever was to operate and the clutch no longer sticks. I have done a video on that job too. If you haven't already, please subscribe! I really appreciate it!
The clutch hub must not be loose on the mainshaft !.Remove the hub & check condition of the shaft and keyway.
Hi @russturner1570 thanks so much for this tip! I did visually inspect the hub to check for grooving but didn't fully remove the hub as it looked to be in good condition. If ever I have similar issues again, I'll know to remove the hub. I have since installed a 7 disc clutch kit and it is working fantastic, with zero sticking issues. Here's the link to that video: th-cam.com/video/yGT0_aIy-4I/w-d-xo.html Really appreciate you taking the time to share this advice and comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe! I really appreciate it!
@@MadTinkerman yeah, I agree the clutch basket and hub looked a bit loose. Two separate adjustments. The owner that backed the shit out of the clutch retaining bolts may have gotten further into that clutch. I'd read about what happens if either the hub or basket fail. I imagine it would be expensive if not dangerous. Triumphrat and britbike are good discussion groups. I'm sure there are others.
@@DodgyBagehot thanks so much for that input. If I have any issues with it, that will be the first thing I check! Thanks again!
It can be oil on the plates, when renewing the engine oil, if too much oil is put in crankcase it will breathe through into the primary case. Suction causes the plates to bind, the only way to free them is to strip the clutch and wash them in spirit to de grease.
@georgemoskal2098 that's interesting! Thanks very much for sharing this info! If you haven't already please subscribe as I could really use a few more subscribers :) Appreciate the feedback!
Duct tape rag over handle works great .
Hi @sundayhinojosa8114, another great idea! Anytime you can include duct tape as part of the repair process, you should :) ! Thanks Again for the comment and the great idea!
Cheap wide flat tip screwdriver and grind your gap in it?
Hi @sundayhinojosa8114, great idea! I had some flat aluminum bar so made a tool out of that which worked well. The screwdriver idea would be more durable though so will keep my eyes open for one with a super wide blade. Appreciate the input. If you haven't already, please subscribe. I'd really appreciate it. Cheers!