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@RJ398, I don't no for sure, but I suspect it is the latch solenoid. What I suggest is that you purchase a product called Deoxit and spray the leaf switches which you will find underneath the number an letter switches when you raise the lid. Deoxit is the very best contact cleaner I have ever used an will remove all of the oxidation enabling the switches to work much better. You don't need very much and don't need to soak the switches just get them wet and then let it fully dry for an hour or two before using the machine, leaving it overnight would even be better. Hope this helps and good luck!

Brilliant thank you

You're very welcome! If you haven't already please subscribe, I would really appreciate it. Have a happy new year!

No problem. I just subscribed ill put a new message as I have another question if that's okay

@josef_koenig, hey thanks so much for this amazing feedback! It's really great to hear that this video helped you out. If you haven't already please subscribe, I would really appreciate it! Have a happy new year!

@ramonboone, believe it or not they are super cheap mirrors off of Amazon. Although inexpensive I really like them and they're very well made super functional even going over rough roads they stay adjusted etc. In fact I like them so well I've purchased a 2nd set and installed them on my 1975 Can Am 250 TNT enduro bike: th-cam.com/video/y1bz9VLG4CI/w-d-xo.html Here's the link on Amazon to the mirrors: www.amazon.ca/MICTUNING-Motorbike-Universal-Definition-Blast-resistant/dp/B06Y2RH6WG?pd_rd_w=HktRt&content-id=amzn1.sym.dfe4a08c-5f84-4843-8949-98bd6055875f&pf_rd_p=dfe4a08c-5f84-4843-8949-98bd6055875f&pf_rd_r=ERM31YJMEDM1259EYWPK&pd_rd_wg=QrFOk&pd_rd_r=80a5e54c-7ed0-4db3-8aa1-da7739539311&pd_rd_i=B06Y2RH6WG&ref_=pd_basp_d_rpt_ba_s_1_t&th=1 If you haven't already please subscribe I would really appreciate it! Enjoy that XLX250 and keep the rubber side down, cheers!

Hi @brucebear1, thanks so much for the very detailed and informative response! Really great tip on how to correctly remove the advance unit. Now that I have the advance unit out I won't need to reinstall it or remove it again on this bike but that information will certainly be useful for other bikes going forward. I'll take your good advice and add a dab of silicone to secure the wires to the faceplate of the Trispark device so they don't rattle around, and also check the rubber grommet where the wires go through the case to make sure it's in good condition. Thanks so much for the part number. Your comment regarding the potential inaccuracy of the timing marks is very interesting. I am having an issue with the bike where it is backfiring when I try to start it through the carbs so wondering if the timing marks are incorrect and causing the issue. I'll do as you suggested and use a timing degree wheel to double check the marks. Definitely going to purchase some 'rubber lubricant' and add that to my workshops for similar situations where rubber lubrication is required. Appreciate the tip. Very much appreciate your clarification on the terminology of a 'machine screw' relative to a 'bolt.' I'll commit this to memory and do my best to use the correct terminology going forward. I really appreciate you taking the time to leave this detailed comment! I'm going to take your good advice on these points and really appreciate the help. Cheers!

Hey @FuriousGriffin, thanks so much! Wishing you and your family all the very best for 2025!

@Core_VII, oh you're very welcome! Thank you so much for leaving a comment and it's great to know that folks out there enjoy the videos. If you haven't already please subscribe I would really appreciate it. Have a happy new year!

@ZachWilliams-sd8hr, the recording is done by Benny Goodman and his orchestra of the song called "Give me the simple life" It's a classic! If you haven't already please subscribe I would really appreciate it, and thanks again for leaving a comment!

@vashdesigns1556, hey thanks so much for the great feedback it's great to hear that these videos are actually helping folks out there so can't thank you enough for leaving a comment! If you haven't already please subscribe I would really appreciate it! Cheers

@@MadTinkerman Already subscribed MT. I am now struggling putting it back together. I bought a new cylinder head and it comes with a little green valve seal. I cant seem to see where it goes. I think it goes on the exhaust valve guide, but not sure what keeps it in place. Any suggestions or pics are appreciated, or an assembly video to complement this one.

@@vashdesigns1556 firstly, thanks so much for subscribing! From what you've described I suspect the seal that you have goes into the head gasket but I could be wrong. What I suggest is you look at the diagram of the head to determine which part it is and where it goes. Here's a link to CHP motor sports website where they list a number of diagrams that may help: chpmotorsports.com/honda/years/ hope this helps and thanks again for subscribing!

Hi @FlashbackHeartAttack, firstly thanks so much for watching the video and leaving a comment! Yes, I am familiar with how to change the belts but it is a bit hard to describe the process, so to help out a bit I made a video for you so you can see the process: th-cam.com/video/Em9H2DVwvq0/w-d-xo.html If you haven't already, I'd appreciate it if you could subscribe to the channel. Hope this 'how to' video helps you and if you have any other questions, just let me know. Cheers and Happy New Year!

Hi @sporsterini, that's awesome that you have '74 Tiger! I like the Tiger as it has one carb rather than the two that need synchronizing on my 750 T140v. Simpler is often better IMHO. Really appreciate your feedback and kind words. Working on these bikes is half the fun. Glad you found this helpful. Cheers!

Hi @jeremiahbarber8725, you are going to really enjoy your '78 T140V! Thanks so much for your kind words and feedback letting me know that the video helped you out a bit. Really appreciate it. Enjoy the ride. Cheers!

Hi @kendexter, hey that's awesome that you have a ST50 Dax that you are doing the same job on! Marvel Mystery Oil has been around since 1923 and is good stuff. Thinner than oil and that's why I used it as a test. Although we may sound similar I am definitely not an American. I live on the West Coast of Canada, near Vancouver. As much as we love our American cousins, we definitely are not the same :) Here's a link to learn more about the history of Marvel Mystery Oil: marvelmysteryoil.com/pages/our-story If you haven't already, please subscribe! I'd really appreciate it. Have fun with the DAX. Cheers!

@@MadTinkerman Ahh..i see and interesting, i like history on old products still in use, i use light and leak tests as well, got my hand on a pristine almost untouched 1973 engine with serial ST-105000, stored indoors for around 50 years,looks new, the small oil channel was blocked up good and one valve was a little stuck but ok and both valves looking new,all bolts new all jug and head like new, they had the top off once one and changed head gasket placing one steering pin at the wrong stud so it could possible not been down plain to the jug resulting in low to no compression . was hard to open oil channel,hard plastic stuff block, and hard do spot the steerpin if not experienced, had a dax 48 years ago and found a 1974 Dax st50 now,bargan at 600 dollar with a not so nice engine but prestine fenders,frame..all nice but engine..well it also runs nice but chipped alu pieces .u know.. Have a Merry solstice day and a good yule ,God Jul from Northern Norway

God Jul! Merry Christmas!! :)

Hi @ericbergman9701, well that's not very good news :) That said I very much appreciate you sharing this info as forewarned is forearmed so will definitely keep this in mind should the bike lose spark. Perhaps I chose the wrong option ...time will tell. Thanks Again! If you haven't already, please subscribe. Really appreciate it!

@@MadTinkerman I should have noted that my experiences were several years ago and it is possible that they've beefed up the electronics against these kinds of failures, but there's no way around the fact that this is a very difficult engineering job if you're trying to keep the cost within some reasonable range. NASA and the military are prepared to pay a lot more than the average vintage bike guy for hardened electronics! It will not hurt my feelings at all if the current product has been improved to where those breakdowns no longer occur.

@@ericbergman9701good stuff! Totally agree with your assessment of potential issues. I live on the 'Wet' Coast of Canada near Vancouver and it doesn't get terribly hot here in the Summer so perhaps that will mitigate issues, but will definitely watch for this now that I know the potential. Cheers!

Hi @lautarocabral2044, thanks so much for watching the videos! The suppliers I used included Jawaparts.com and jawashop.com and ebay etc. Did a quick search for you and looks like Jawashop.com has them in stock. Here's the link: www.jawashop.com/parts-by-type_k11/jawa-spare-parts_k17/jawa-250-350-californian-1966-1973-spare-parts_k153/#section_category=%5B%2213%22%5D If you haven't already, I would really appreciate it if you would subscribe. It's free and is essentially just a bookmark in case you want to watch more of my videos. Really appreciate it and enjoy the JAWA. They are fun machines to work on. Cheers!

@sparky4152003, totally agree with you that the more you use the bike, the less likely you are to experience these issues as using the bike, keeps the clutch discs clean and smooth. Like all mechanical stuff, have them sit around, usused, is never good. Great to hear of your experience with your two T140's and that you don't have these sorts of problems. Really appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe. Cheers!

Hi @kevinhelms7156, that's good to know that the clutch should begin to grab with the clutch lever released about 3/4 of the way. I'll strive for that. Cheers!

Hi @kevinhelms7156, do you mean to adjust the clutch adjustment screw or do you mean to adjust the springs or the cable adjustment and the handlebar? Really appreciate your advice.

@kevinhelms7156, the kit did not include new springs, but I purchased news ones and on the advice of others, I installed springs for a 650 as opposed to the 750 which with hindsight I think was a mistake. I think I'll order new 750 springs and install those as I have had to tighten the 650 springs so that the bolts extrude past the top of the nuts so as to get them strong enough to mitigate slipping. Really appreciate your input and comments! If you haven't already, please subscribe. Cheers!

Hi @droidster888, thanks so much for watching the videos and leaving a comment! That's great you have a '76 T140 and have done a bunch of this work too! I should invest in the 'cheap as chips' tool and give that method of installing the rocker o'rings a try. Sounds that method would be ideal. Appreciate your kind words as well. Cheers!

Hi @BrainHurricanes, firstly thanks so much for watching the video! I am frankly not familiar with how to put the Lyric on free play. If you don't already, it's probably a good idea to source a manual, but in the interim, there is a lot of good forums that can often assist and provide info. Here's a link to one of those forums where they explain how to put various Wurlitzer models on free play: jukeboxaddicts.proboards.com/thread/546/howto-wurlitzer-2000-3300-free. Separately, my experience with these machines is that most problems are solved by cleaning all of the leaf switches. There is a product called 'Deoxit' that is amazing and the best contact cleaner I have found. Careful gentle cleaning of the switches with 'Deoxit' and then spraying all of the leaf switches with it can often solve a lot of problems. Let it thoroughly dry for few hours before powering the machine back on. Wurlitzers are great machines. Hopefully this helps. If you haven't already, please subscribe. Really appreciate it!

@lisakowalski3191, super observant of you and you're right! A very small sliver of rubber was removed when installing the o'ring this way. As of today the repair is still working with zero oil seepage. Super happy with how this repair went. If it had leaked I would have done it the 'correct' way, but zero issues so far. Really appreciate your watching the video and leaving this comment. Cheers!

@GerardoCardenas-w5k, thanks so much for our kind words. It's great to hear that the videos are helpful! If you haven't already, please subscribe and spread the word if you know anyone else that might enjoy the videos. Getting close to 1K subscribers so greatly appreciate it.

Hi @GerardoCardenas-w5k, welcome to the channel and cheers from Canada! That's awesome that you have a JAWA 638 350!!

@pattoallen1981, hey I appreciate the feedback. I always take the approach that the viewer knows nothing so try to explain things fully and in very simple clear terms. Not always successful. Your feedback is greatly appreciated and I'll weave that input into future videos. Keep the rubber side down and if you haven't already, please subscribe. Cheers!

I start mine with side stand down but not resting on it. If on centre stand it dances about too much

@johnhawden4118, thanks so much for your kind words regarding the bike! Genuinely curious about starting on the centre stand. Curious, why doing that in the garage is particularly cringeworthy? :) Cheers!

@Segsy59 does the four valve oil pump guarantee zero wet sumping? Wondering how it works differently from the regular two valve pump to prevent it? Less than six months ago I replaced the original oil pump with a Morgo two valve based on lots of advice from Triumph owners. Only want to redo this job if it would resolve the problem. Really appreciate the input and your thoughts on this.

@snapon666, firstly thanks so much for watching the video! That's really interesting that you had '79 T140D and found it easy to start. Mine is a brute. I weigh about 180lbs and can stand and put all my weight on the kick start and it doesn't move. I have to literally jump on it to get it to turn over at any kind of speed. The bike is in good condition with compression around 110 PSI on each cylinder and no compression release. Curious how you could turn your's over so easily. Did '79 have a compression release? That sure as heck would help. If you haven't already, please subscribe. I'd really appreciate it! Cheers!

@@MadTinkerman no comp release don't know what my comp was no smoke even on cold start and still hauled ass even 2 up I weighed around 260 but would just sit on the seat and use leg ..I wonder if there is a different gear ratio for the starter ? mine was long kicker like yours ??? subscribed

@@MadTinkerman after some checking online seems the comp ratio was all over the pl;ace from 7.4 to 8.6 ?

Nice vid.....looking at similar ignition for my Norton Commando, whats the price range for the kit?

😂😂🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣 Everyone believes that 😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣

@johndesmond1987, firstly thanks so much to watching the videos! I am a fellow Canuck located in Maple Ridge, a suburb of Vancouver. Cool that you're in Mississauga. No I am not a member of the CVMG and in fact had never heard of it until your note. Took a quick gander at the website and looks pretty cool. I'll definitely consider joining as I have 5 collector bikes and quite enjoy wrenching on them. That's awesome that you have a '77 T140 too and also have a collection of older bikes. Very cool. If you haven't already, please subscribe. Really appreciate the info!

@daveco1270, wow you have a lot of experience with the various electronic ignitions on your bikes! So far the Trispark seems great! Super easy to install and works well, so far, although too cold out to take it for a ride. In the garage it works well. I hope to have the installation video out either this evening (Pacific) or tomorrow. Thanks again for the comment! Cheers!

@jameshisself7375, thanks so much for sharing this info! This is my first vintage Triumph so wasn't aware of this sort of issue. I know now to kick the bike over a few times with the clutch lever engaged to free it up before starting. Taking it apart and cleaning up the friction plates and steels really helped too. Thanks again for watching the video and leaving a comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it!

@walterhcarterjr1379, thanks so much for sharing this info and watching the video! There's a lot to learn with these vintage Triumphs so appreciate all the help. Thanks again for watching the video and leaving a comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe! Really appreciate it!

@walterhcarterjr1379, wow you are super observant. Just went out to the garage and measured it (from the centre of the pivot bolt to the centre of the cable hole) and you're right! It's one inch. Had no idea I had the wrong clutch lever on there. Would having a lever and perch with 7/8" measure make it easier or harder to pull the clutch lever? I guess I better order one :) ! Thanks Again!! I really appreciate it!

Hi @tokairic3925, thanks so much for sharing your experience regarding the Triumph clutch! You're right! After I took it apart, cleaned up all the plates and took all the rust / deburring off the steels, it worked perfectly once installed properly per the manual and guidance from others like yourself. The only issue I had with it is how much effort it took to pull the clutch lever. I replaced the original with a 7 disc Airco clutch kit and that reduced the amount of effort from ~40 lbs measured at the lever to 18 lbs of effort. If you want to see that video, and the measurements before and after, here's the link: th-cam.com/video/yGT0_aIy-4I/w-d-xo.html Thanks again for leaving a comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe! I Really appreciate it!

@tokairic3925, thanks so much for sharing this info! This is the first bike I have had where if you let the bike sit that the clutch plates can stick. Owning a vintage Triumph requires a fairly steep learning curve from other, especially Japanese, bikes. That said I am really enjoying this bike along with all it's quirks and idiosyncrasies. I know now to kick the bike over a few times with the clutch lever engaged to free up the plates prior to starting. You're right about getting it set up right, especially to remove any wobble. Took me a bit to get it right, but once set up, I am no longer having issues with it sticking.

Hi @bobclark9969, very observant! Yup, I messed that up. Check out the the video at 37:35 mark where I do a mea culpa and have a bit of a laugh at myself for making such a dumb mistake :) Thanks so much for watching the videos and sharing the info. I really appreciate it! Cheers!

Hi @johndesmond1987, thanks so much for these tips! After I cleaned up the clutch steels and thoroughly cleaned everything, it worked fine. The only issue I had was how hard it was to pull the clutch lever, so decided to pull the trigger and purchased a 7 disc clutch kit which made a huge difference! I did a video on that as well. I measured the amount of pull it took to engage the lever both before the 7 disc clutch mod and after, and it's incredible what a huge, measurable, difference it made. Here's the link to that video if you're interested in seeing it: th-cam.com/video/yGT0_aIy-4I/w-d-xo.html When I first purchased this old girl I had no idea you were to kick it over a few times with the clutch lever engaged before starting; but because of your comments and others, I do now. Greatly appreciate you watching videos and sharing your thoughts! Cheers!

Hi @timmcfarland2736, hey thanks much for taking the time to leave a comment and letting me know you've been enjoying the videos! Great to hear that you are a fan of old British bikes too! Hopefully you're staying dry with this crazy rain part of Northern California is getting right now. Have fun, stay dry and most importantly, keep the rubber side down! Cheers!

Hi @johnmathewson985, thanks very much for the tip! I'll give this a try next time I need to hold the engine. Thanks so much for watching the videos and leaving a comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe. I'd really appreciate it. Cheers!

@timmcfarland2736, the issue with my old carbs was that the slides were sticky and had a fair bit of wear that was causing air leakage past the slides. I worked on the old carbs and got them working much, much better but still decided to purchase new Amals due to the slide air leakage issue. Here's the video of the work I did on the old carbs which really helped: th-cam.com/video/p_mYdRgNTkI/w-d-xo.html If money was tight, I'd be riding the bike still with the old carbs. New Amal Premiers are a lot of $'s so would try hard to get your old ones working acceptably first. I purchased mine from a retired gentleman that owned a British bike shop in Vancouver which he recently shut down upon retirement. Not sure of your location, but if you are in British Columbia I can give you his contact info in case he has more of them. Wouldn't be worthwhile if you're not relatively local. The new Amal Premiers did make a big difference especially in balancing because being new, they are both exactly the same. The old carbs leaked air past the slides differentially and as such balancing them throughout the rev range was really hard / impossible to get perfect. That's awesome that you have both a '71 Triumph and a cool '64 MGB! I have a '59 TR3A so very similar to what you have in terms of old school British 'fun' :) Thanks so much for watching the videos and leaving a comment! If you haven't already, please subscribe. I'd really appreciate it. Cheers!

@9694maw, thanks so much for the positive feedback! These machines are great but blow fuses way too easily. The external fuse makes it a lot easier to confidently use the machine, know that if it blows you can fix it in about 20 seconds. I taped a box of twenty fuses to the bottom of the machine so they're always handy. Thanks again, and in case you haven't already, I'd really appreciate it if you could subscribe. Cheers!

@saxonost7, that's really interesting that you had a similar issue, did the similar stuff, and then found it was the pressure release valve! Really appreciate this info! I'll order either a new unit or just the spring and give that a shot. Thanks Again!

@@MadTinkerman no worries! Happy motorcycling!

@marklloyd7894, I am going to take your good advice and buy a new pressure release valve. Weirdly I took mine off and cleaned it up and it all looks perfect, but given the relatively inexpensive cost, I am going to order a new one and give it a go. Really appreciate you watching the video and sharing your thoughts1 If you haven't already, please subscribe. I really appreciate it!

Put bike on centre stand and check sump volume when drained , cold check next day, also C/ case breathing system,may be valve stem leak and if compression is down a bit may be creating C/case pressure.

@marklloyd7894, you know I think you may have put your finger on the issue. I bet you're right and it is a leaky valve stem or valve guide. I am going to be ordering an inspection camera so when it arrives, I'll have a peak on both the inlet and exhaust sides and see if there's anything obvious before taking off the head. Thanks so much! ...this really helps!!

@johnmathewson985, that's cool that you have the same model '75 250 TNT and also did the VAPE upgrade! I am not a racer, just enjoy putt putting around on mine, but so far I am super happy with it. Previously it had ignition issues with the old Bosch unit, causing the bike to crap out randomly once warmed up. Very thankful that issue is resolved. The added benefit is that the bike starts up immediately on first, or at most second kick each and every time. Great to hear the bike is a bit quicker racing MX with the lighter flywheel. I guess keeping those rev's up may help in single track too. Thanks very much for watching the video and letting me know about your experience with the VAPE ignition. Best of luck racing!

@king_slayer6631, thanks so much for the kind feedback and for watching the videos! I thin you're right and agree with you that the very best initial adjustment of the clutch is to have the bolts adjusted flush with the nuts. Appreciate the tip!

@scratchvideo8859, thanks so much for watching the video and providing feedback. That's fantastic you have a '66 T120R! That's a genuine vintage classic! Good luck with the PRV! If you haven't already, please subscribe. Really appreciate the comment and input! Cheers

@re-mxinc3682, thanks again for all your support and a great product! Super happy with how the bikes is running now that the VAPE ignition is installed.

Hi @paulwildsmith8579 thanks so much for your kind words and feedback. I really appreciate the input and for watching the videos. Cheers!

@kayak1100, thanks so much for the tip, especially the information that the clutch lever should be depressed when doing the adjustment. When I did it I put the bike in gear off the ground and rotated the back tire which then spun the clutch basket and used that method to adjust until there was no wobble. I'll give your method a try next time I work on the clutch. Very much appreciate you watching the video and taking the time to provide this info. If you haven't already, please subscribe. I Really Appreciate it!! Cheers.