Thanks for the video. I've just changed mine out using this and the Haynes manual as guidance. Definitely buy a clutch tool to get the main clutch nut off and re-tightened afterwards. Otherwise you risk bending your spokes if you put a bar through the rear wheel. Also make sure the spring plate on the outside of the clutch assembly finishes with a 2-3mm gap off the centre part once the 3 bolts are tightened, otherwise the clutch casing and cable tension will be completely wrong. The inner clutch assembly (final plate and clutch plate included) can sit wrong, resulting in the spring plate sitting flush to the central assembly. This is wrong and won't close up correctly. Take pictures of absolutely everything so that you can re-assemble to the same spec. Thanks again for taking the time to record this, it was a great help!
Can you recommend a Clutch tool, please? I'll be doing this on my own as I accidentally dropped my Bonnie on her left side, and I've not even done an oil change. So I'm having to learn everything as I go pretty much.
Thank you so much for a very in-depth video on this, it’s the only thing that has been a concern on what is other wise a wonderful engine. Now I know how straight forward it is to fix I’m no longer dredging it happening, Thanks once again for the peace of mind 👍
I wish you had done a video on the putting the cover back on. I snapped the rod inside the cover because I had it turned around and not engaging the pin rod head. Finally got a new one 2 2weeks later and I'm having a hell of a time getting that to lock in properly and when I think it does the clutch cable clip( stick out from the rod outside the cover) has too much play. Normally I wrestle trying to get the clutch cable head back in the slot but now it just seems to be too much cable. So I know something"s not right. ARGHHHHH"
1) Do you put the clutch plates in a tub with oil to let them set in? 2) Do I need an impact wrench for that center nut on the clutch, or will a breaker bar and 13mm socket work just the same? 3) what oil weight did you use. Mine is a 2022 T100, so I'm also curious if I need real or synthetic, I assume synthetic since the interval is 10,000 miles. Since the oil in it is fairly new, can I just use that to oil the clutch plates?
Hi, Followed your procedure, worked wonderfully, thanks. Second time my 2018 T120 had this problem in 27Km May I suggest that you rename this video. Producegear does not lend itself for a search for gearbox issues. How about Triumph Gear Selector - Fix and Replace
This is great! I’ve watched a few of these gear shaft assembly videos on TH-cam and had a couple of questions if I may. 1. What year is this Bonneville? I have a 2012 black cased Scrambler. It looks like there’s is a different procedure on the carbureted model engines, where they pull the shaft from the drive side after removing the clutch, etc but also must remove the drive sprocket…just trying to determine what year models this approach works with. 2. Are most downshifting issues caused by this? I bought the bike used and found it a little dodgy getting it into 1st gear and expected a clutch or cable adjustments. I don’t know if the bike was dropped by the previous owner and don’t know if the shaft is bent, so hence my question if there are other culprits for this problem. This certainly SEEMS like my problem but I can’t tell visually. Thanks for the video and any other advice you can provide regarding the above.
Thanks for the video. I'm doing it on a Street Scrambler which is the same as teh street twin but any differences with the Bonneville are negligable. That said, when you show the gear shfter (pivot plate) from a picture in the Haynes manual and say it has to be in that same configuration, will it make any difference if it isn't? I imagine it does if it's mentionned both in your video and the manual. Just wanted to know how to get it back in (the new gear shift selector) in the that original position. And if you can show me where in the manual it gives torque specs, cause I don't see them. Cheers.,
Great video. Very helpful. My 2017 T120 has just begun acting up, during down shifts. Feels like there's no engagement with the gearbox and like I'm just rattling the gear lever in an empty space. It does seem to change down if I actuate the gear lever slowly, however. But, I don't want to be left stranded. I'll follow this video to change my pivot plate out (new selector mechanism). It appears that you have changed your detent wheel, the selector mechanism (including pivot plate), and the clutch assembly centre nut. Would you recommend this when undertaking the task? Or are you just being thorough? (To be fair, I would prefer to be thorough). Thanks.
I assembled it then install a clutch cable to check if everything good. But, the clutch is not disengaged when sit on 1st gear and I pull the clutch cable. Should I install cover and fill the engine oil to solve this or something went wrong?
Can anybody help. I’m having a hell of a time getting the lever on the bottom of the cover to engage inside. Instead of being 90 degrees (roughly to the cover it’s 45 degrees past where I think it should be. I then have zero adjustment in the clutch cable. I hope that makes sense. It’s engaging something inside. It’s baffling me. Background, I’ve changed the engine covers. Thanks.
Thx for the video. I wouldn't do that by myself but like to to see the process. At 6:30 in the video you talk about a slight chipping inside of the pole on the selector or the pivot plate as a possible source of the problem. Was it ? Have you replaced this part to fix the problem or any other parts ? You mention at the end of the video now the bike works fantastic. It was in 2021. Do you have an update three years later ? Is the problem reoccur ? thx
On the Triumph Rat Forum this is usually the culprit. THe metal is rather soft (wonder why they don't make it stronger) and often leads to this problem.
Nooooooo. I sat through the whole thing to see if I installed the pull rod incorrectly and it didn't make it into the video :( I changed my plates and springs only, but my pull rod seems to have no spring tension and will not return to position. I have no idea what I have done wrong. I have checked photos and I am sure the spring is seated correctly but it has no force to return the clutch lever when pulled. Any idea what would cause this? does it need oil pressure?
Hi Christian, I have had the same problem, The way i fixed it is to take the clutch plates out again and reinstal them very very carefully making sure that they are in order and flat and tight together.Once I did this i managed to get the tension in the pull rod. I went mad just like you as I could not see any logic why it should not fit-the reason is a slight misalignment when installing the whole clutch unit.
Why should you have to repair and re repair a basically new motorcycle , Never owned this brand and NEVER Will. I feel very sad for all who get thrown under the proverbial bus by this crowd. I know personally , a very frustrated and sorry individual with 2016 t120 that cant go anywhere . Disgraceful behaviour indeed .
Thanks for the video. I've just changed mine out using this and the Haynes manual as guidance. Definitely buy a clutch tool to get the main clutch nut off and re-tightened afterwards. Otherwise you risk bending your spokes if you put a bar through the rear wheel. Also make sure the spring plate on the outside of the clutch assembly finishes with a 2-3mm gap off the centre part once the 3 bolts are tightened, otherwise the clutch casing and cable tension will be completely wrong. The inner clutch assembly (final plate and clutch plate included) can sit wrong, resulting in the spring plate sitting flush to the central assembly. This is wrong and won't close up correctly. Take pictures of absolutely everything so that you can re-assemble to the same spec. Thanks again for taking the time to record this, it was a great help!
Can you recommend a Clutch tool, please? I'll be doing this on my own as I accidentally dropped my Bonnie on her left side, and I've not even done an oil change. So I'm having to learn everything as I go pretty much.
Thank you so much for a very in-depth video on this, it’s the only thing that has been a concern on what is other wise a wonderful engine. Now I know how straight forward it is to fix I’m no longer dredging it happening, Thanks once again for the peace of mind 👍
This is the video I’ve been needing. Thank you.
Awesome- thanks for reposting on the forum!
NP, I did not realize that it was down.
I wish you had done a video on the putting the cover back on. I snapped the rod inside the cover because I had it turned around and not engaging the pin rod head. Finally got a new one 2 2weeks later and I'm having a hell of a time getting that to lock in properly and when I think it does the clutch cable clip( stick out from the rod outside the cover) has too much play. Normally I wrestle trying to get the clutch cable head back in the slot but now it just seems to be too much cable. So I know something"s not right. ARGHHHHH"
1) Do you put the clutch plates in a tub with oil to let them set in?
2) Do I need an impact wrench for that center nut on the clutch, or will a breaker bar and 13mm socket work just the same?
3) what oil weight did you use. Mine is a 2022 T100, so I'm also curious if I need real or synthetic, I assume synthetic since the interval is 10,000 miles.
Since the oil in it is fairly new, can I just use that to oil the clutch plates?
Hi, Followed your procedure, worked wonderfully, thanks. Second time my 2018 T120 had this problem in 27Km
May I suggest that you rename this video. Producegear does not lend itself for a search for gearbox issues. How about Triumph Gear Selector - Fix and Replace
This is great! I’ve watched a few of these gear shaft assembly videos on TH-cam and had a couple of questions if I may.
1. What year is this Bonneville? I have a 2012 black cased Scrambler.
It looks like there’s is a different procedure on the carbureted model engines, where they pull the shaft from the drive side after removing the clutch, etc but also must remove the drive sprocket…just trying to determine what year models this approach works with.
2. Are most downshifting issues caused by this? I bought the bike used and found it a little dodgy getting it into 1st gear and expected a clutch or cable adjustments. I don’t know if the bike was dropped by the previous owner and don’t know if the shaft is bent, so hence my question if there are other culprits for this problem. This certainly SEEMS like my problem but I can’t tell visually.
Thanks for the video and any other advice you can provide regarding the above.
Thank you sir!
Thanks for the video. I'm doing it on a Street Scrambler which is the same as teh street twin but any differences with the Bonneville are negligable. That said, when you show the gear shfter (pivot plate) from a picture in the Haynes manual and say it has to be in that same configuration, will it make any difference if it isn't? I imagine it does if it's mentionned both in your video and the manual. Just wanted to know how to get it back in (the new gear shift selector) in the that original position. And if you can show me where in the manual it gives torque specs, cause I don't see them.
Cheers.,
Great video. Very helpful. My 2017 T120 has just begun acting up, during down shifts. Feels like there's no engagement with the gearbox and like I'm just rattling the gear lever in an empty space. It does seem to change down if I actuate the gear lever slowly, however. But, I don't want to be left stranded.
I'll follow this video to change my pivot plate out (new selector mechanism). It appears that you have changed your detent wheel, the selector mechanism (including pivot plate), and the clutch assembly centre nut. Would you recommend this when undertaking the task? Or are you just being thorough? (To be fair, I would prefer to be thorough).
Thanks.
Would you happen to have the part number for the shift assembly please. Mine is the same setup but can't find it in the parts diagram.
I assembled it then install a clutch cable to check if everything good. But, the clutch is not disengaged when sit on 1st gear and I pull the clutch cable. Should I install cover and fill the engine oil to solve this or something went wrong?
Can anybody help. I’m having a hell of a time getting the lever on the bottom of the cover to engage inside. Instead of being 90 degrees (roughly to the cover it’s 45 degrees past where I think it should be. I then have zero adjustment in the clutch cable. I hope that makes sense. It’s engaging something inside. It’s baffling me. Background, I’ve changed the engine covers. Thanks.
I dont think you said what was the cause of your problem....I know you found some slight chipping on opne of the pawls.....was that the problem???
Thx for the video. I wouldn't do that by myself but like to to see the process. At 6:30 in the video you talk about a slight chipping inside of the pole on the selector or the pivot plate as a possible source of the problem. Was it ? Have you replaced this part to fix the problem or any other parts ? You mention at the end of the video now the bike works fantastic. It was in 2021. Do you have an update three years later ? Is the problem reoccur ? thx
The chipping WAS the problem.It failed again twice more. I had a second updated part from triumph and so far it is ok.
On the Triumph Rat Forum this is usually the culprit. THe metal is rather soft (wonder why they don't make it stronger) and often leads to this problem.
Did you replace all the clutch plates too since you already had everything torn apart?
Yes I did,
@@JH-wt3zq Thank you! Follow up question: did you replace all the clutch discs or just the friction disks?
The Achilles Heel of these Liquid Cooled TRIUMPHS, Don't drop them on the left side.
that's EXACTLY what happened to mine at a Motorcycle Safety course that was hosted by my local PD, and now I can barely get it into 2nd gear.
Nooooooo.
I sat through the whole thing to see if I installed the pull rod incorrectly and it didn't make it into the video :(
I changed my plates and springs only, but my pull rod seems to have no spring tension and will not return to position. I have no idea what I have done wrong. I have checked photos and I am sure the spring is seated correctly but it has no force to return the clutch lever when pulled. Any idea what would cause this? does it need oil pressure?
Hi Christian, I have had the same problem, The way i fixed it is to take the clutch plates out again and reinstal them very very carefully making sure that they are in order and flat and tight together.Once I did this i managed to get the tension in the pull rod. I went mad just like you as I could not see any logic why it should not fit-the reason is a slight misalignment when installing the whole clutch unit.
@@JH-wt3zq Thanks Mate!
I will pull it apart again tonight and double check it all.
@@JH-wt3zq you were right. I hadn't put the last plate offset to the rest!
@@christiankirkenes5922 Did go back together ok after that?
@@JH-wt3zq Yes, just trying to get the clutch adjusted now, but it functions !!
Why should you have to repair and re repair a basically new motorcycle , Never owned this brand and NEVER Will. I feel very sad for all who get thrown under the proverbial bus by this crowd. I know personally , a very frustrated and sorry individual with 2016 t120 that cant go anywhere . Disgraceful behaviour indeed .