Hi mate. Nice video. I used to (and kind of still do) fix these quite a lot (must have done dozens of them) and got really excited when you found the short on the RF as I was thinking "ooo - I would never had thought of that. Looks like I'll be learning something new!"... A few tips, if you're doing this again: - The red "do not remove" cover is the Sega CD expansion slot dust cover. That message is very dramatic.. - The LED wire is crudely slotted into the cable. I usually straighten and then cut the led legs in half so it's easier to get the connector on and off. - The reset buttons on the MD1 and 2 are hot garbage. They either get stuck on or don't work about 50% of the time. Black screen can be a symptom of a stuck-on button. I usually replace them with little tactile buttons. - Not only do I systematically clean and resolver the cart pins (on account of them being a major failing point), but I "respring" them too, which is what you were doing with that pin. A much quicker (and neater) way of doing that is to take a little flat-head screw driver and push down on the top of the pin. This makes the pin consatena down, bending towards the opposite pin. You can gently "bounce" down on it to fine-tune the bend. - The 2x voltage regulators get super hot. That screw that goes into heat sink, effectively turns the entire RF shield into an extended heatsink. I ran tests, and without the RF shield, or even that screw, the heatsink gets LOADS hotter. My theory for that red epoxy stuff is to make sure they stay nice and tight to keep the contact good. Not sure. Either way, it's really common to get these broken units without the shield or screws in as people are, apparently, too lazy to put it back together properly. - Not a tip, but it's really interesting (imo) that in pretty much each unit (more-so in the MD2) there are usually fingerprints in the heat shield from the original Chinese factory workers. The oils in their skins tarnished the chrome plating, kind of fossilising into the metal. Each are unique. You can sometimes see them though the bottom grille on MD2 better. - The mod you did only needed a ground, so you could have literally soldered right next to it rather than running that long cable across the board. Having said that, it probably wouldn't have occurred to me to leave the exposed wire short and would have left me wrapping it in tape, preventing a short or something. I gave out an audible "...oh yeah..." when you did that :D - oh. And, I'm sure you're already aware, but getting an RGB scart cable for that is a must. The picture/ colour quality difference is night and day. I've developed heaps of my own tricks, over the years, to test and improve these things. Sadly, 90% of the issues with them are just dirt/ weak spring contacts, so it's very rarely anything overly interesting. Looking forward to the 2nd video, but I fear it will be much the same - hence why I don't really do these consoles anymore :/ I actually have a MD2 that has a very interesting fault on, that I was going to offer up to you. Basically, all the sprites on the screen are totally scrambled and in the wrong place on the screen. If you're up for a bit more of an actual fault-finding, component swapping mission, I can send that one over to you :) All the best, Luke
Well I know this is three years late but I recently got a megadrive, interestingly all colours show however whites get replaced randomly by yellow or green, I'm thinking the caps but since you have vast knowledge have you ran into this before?
@@Dez083 Perhaps, but at over £100 not everyone is going to have one. Some retro consoles don't generate RGB. Most TVs still accept composite and a mod for that costs less than £5.
Had to be first on this one ;) The reset switch is resistive rather than gives a short! So probably nothing wrong with the reset switch other than a clean of the contacts needed. It can seem like the slot is just not working regardless, but that's usually a sign you need to clean it with something more abrassive (very fine sand paper), but I generally just push folded paper into these slots (covered in IPA or deoxit). Fine grit sand paper is a last resort as any damage to the surface of the socket pins will translate into damage on cart edges etc. It can seem like the slot is just not working regardless, but that's usually a sign you need to clean it with something more abrassive. Great to see it working!!! =D
Haha, congrats on first! Thanks Chris, that damn reset switch!!! It was perfect all along. It was a bit of pain to desolder as well, at least it will teach me to check for resistance change rather than a short in the future. I will try the DeoxIT paper trick on the next one, if it works it can be a tea break repair video instead. Cheers mate :-)
I repair lots of these mega drives, I've 6 on the bench at present (RGB Issues), 4 ready to be shipped out. If you ever do need to replace the reset switch, here is the part number for the new tactile option.: JB15FPG05 Love your videos by the way Vince!
Lovely to see this MD working again. Odd that the cart slot pins seemed wider on the left side. I guess it could be caused by an owner consistently pushing the carts in at a bit of an angle? 🤷♂️
Cheers Steve, pushing in or maybe taking them out at an angle on one side. GadgetUK mentioned it might be more related to dirty contacts. So possible by bending the pins in, it allowed the cart to clean the contacts which then fixed the problem. We'll see what happens on the 2nd one as the issue is very similar :-)
You never fail to send me of to sleep Vince not that I don't enjoy the content quite the opposite its so informative that my brain melts and I fall asleep love the videos mate
As someone has already said, the port on the side is for the Mega CD add on. The EXT port was only on the original model and as was intended for a modem peripheral that never released (we got Sega Meganet instead which connected via a cartridge). The "mod" on the MC68000 chip would have been done at the factory and was common on early models to fix a bug that could cause the console to crash.
Hi Vince, great repair video! RF is rubbish, but the Mega Drive's AV out is great as it does full RGB out and stereo audio! My brother made me a DIN to SCART cable back in the '90s which I still use today. If you're going to re-sell these I'd recommend putting in a region/50/60hz mod. If you're going to keep one to play games on, I'd also recommend getting a scanline doubler which will output a nice picture via HDMI.
Hey Vince, it's quite normal for most UHF TV modulators to read a short circuit at their output when tested with a DC multimeter, as high RF works very differently to DC voltages. Without access to UHF test gear, the best method is to test the voltage at the power input of the modulator section, and if it's good, then tuning an analogue TV channel to the UHF output frequency (normally UHF Channel 36 or thereabouts in the UK) you should be able to see a difference in the static on screen when you have it tuned correctly, but a DC test will invariably show a dead short at the modulator output.
I remember when I subscribed to your channel and you only had around 100,000 subs, and now you have almost 800,000! I have really enjoyed watching your videos over this time, and I’m excited for when you reach 1 mil!
I kinda support taking the switch off, its legitimately good troubleshooting - you go from easiest things to determine to hardest ones, follow the power and that HAS been done here. good job as near as i can tell.
To get the LED disconnected, bend the legs up and slide the wire off from there. Make note of the polarity colors and leg length. Red's positive/longer leg, I believe. I have my console in storage and can't be bothered to get it out to check, lol.
Great repair Vince, you can get av cables or scart ones very affordable this days, because rf is really BAD but back to the video is always nice to see a Sega machine being repaired from someone who really has passion for the system and for a no professional like you said you are putting some of them to shame (I mean the ones that called themselves pros but have no passion or interests to help). Keep the good work 👍
I'm amazed by your reasoning and the logic behind it I've picked up a few things on this video which is going to help me tackle and solve similar problems.
A fast way of testing a MD I with video/RF problems is to connect a pair of headphones to the headphone jack. Insert a game and check if you can hear anything when the games has started.
Hi mate, I’ve been watching you for a while now and thinking I should give this a try! Anyway brought my daughter a Xbox one with water damage and failed hard drive, I rewatched your video when you had a failed drive and also many of your water damaged Switches. Long story short my daughter is now the proud owner of a working Xbox one! Thanks for uploading these and helping people learn (and also saving me a good £80!! 🤣)
Brilliant troubleshooting as usual. Funny I just fixed one that had the same issue but with all games and found that a broken trace (pin 4 of IC4) had caused the problem. Thank you for keeping them alive!
That's right it was also used in the megadrives arcade hardware equivalent system 14 system c and system e for coin counters and other backend stuff. It was also used as a basic debug port through a coders cable and could offer basic debugging. The port is a sort of cut down parallel port even though it resembles a serial port or d sub port. If you want to interface with you'll have to use logic level conversion. It's also no different to the front facing controller ports except it's female instead of male connectors on the front.
I have an intellevision that I have to manipulate the cartridge the same way. This fix might actually work for that. Awesome simple fix. Thanks for putting in the work so I can save time.
Switches also can be used in a circuit to change resistance which the processor can change state. Normal switches are either ON or OFF. Great content Vince!!!! Keep it up!
Still got mine from 1993, also got the arcade power stick that was bought separately. Must drag it out and see if it still works.... 🤔🤞🤞 Great video Vince 👌🍻🍻
Vince, these are the type of videos I love to watch, long fixing videos, the short tea break ones are over to fast. More longer fixing console videos please 👌😁😁😁
That reset switch really threw you into a loop, it seems. And I do wonder what caused the cartridge slot to widen on one side, but not the other... Another great fix, in any case! 👍
It did and there was nothing wrong with it! At least it will teach me to look for a resistance change rather than a direct short in the future. Between the wasted time on this and the Game & Watch carbon tracks I will be sure in the future to check for resistances, if the continuity tester is not making sense. Cheers Operational :-)
Just a little background info: The model with the extension port is the launch/Gen 1 model of Mega Drive (easily recognized by the High Definition Graphics and Stereo Sound tagline, which was removed from the later revisions.) And the "odd slot" on the bottom is the edge connector for the Mega-CD.
Hi Vince, Firstly, very informative video! Just a quick note about the black screen errors. The boot process for the MD has a small security check, The black screens that most people will tend to see is related to a failure within this process.. The infamous "Blowing" trick of the cartridge stemmed from this where the cartridge doesn't sit correctly within slot. When the console boots, It reads the cartridge and has longword bytes written in the ROM @ address $100, This translates to "SEGA" in big endian ASCII code. The TMSS checks to see if this is written correctly and will show the usual "Produced By or Under License From Sega Enterprises Ltd." message. If it fails usually because of the cartridge connection, it will show the black screen. It was interesting to see how SEGA did their best to prevent unlicensed games. Hope you dont mind the history lesson! If you want a little more, I recommend the SEGA vs ACCOLADE lawsuit, A very interesting topic on licensing requirements and a sneaky way of getting round the rules back in the 90's! Cheers!
Great video! I want to get a Sega Genesis just for some gaming. I had this system when I was a kid. And I had bought more at 2nd hand stores for like $3-$6 USD through the years but people kept stealing them from me.
when it comes to megadrives i always just photograph and inspect them for obvious damage but dont chase down rabbit holes, use some kitchen and stove top cleaner to scrub down the board, wash and then alcohol rinse. ensure they're bone dry and retest. more often than not when they die its because of a chip you can't replace. anything short of that will be obvious like the power switch/ power jack/ av ports being corroded or the solder joints on them have cracked and need reflowing.
To the best of my knowledge, the red material on the screw heads is to prevent loosening. There is a product called Loctite that is used directly on threads, and I suspect this is something similar.
BTW the other Mega Drive with 'High Definition Audio' is a really early one and is highly desirable and pretty rare. It shouldn't show the initial produced under licence by Sega text when you boot it.
@@Mymatevince Yes. The board in that one will be revision VA0 which is the earliest and arguably best MegaDrive hardware SEGA made. I suggest if you can get it going you keep it as your main? Also you can pick up scart cables for all revisions on eBay for a few quid that will drastically improve your picture quality.
It's not that rare, I have 2! VA6 ones are common, same audio circuitry, no HD graphics, TMSS! Look at the rear to tell the good ones from the bad ones.
@@SimonNemeth It can't be a VA0; that board was exclusive to Japan at its launch. I think Europe's launch machine was VA3. I know North America got the VA2.
i had a sega genesis as we call the in the good ole USA, and mine looked similar to this one and i even remember that little port you noted. by now im sure many have mentioned what it is. but in case not, it was the connection port that the original sega cd used to connect to the system. when you think about it cartridge based systems all seemed to have some bottom or side connection port for future peripheral planning. the NES had on on the bottom, not sure if the SNES had one, the N64 had one. sadly at least here in the US and ive heard over there across the pond, we westerners never got those add ons. they all stayed local in japan......lucky bastards lol
Use a touch of DeOxit on those outputs, like RCA and Coax ect... with a brillo pad wet with some deoxit, just wrap around and twist will clean it right on up! :)
Hi vince, on the rf output there should be a voltage regulator for the strength of the output sometimes need to up the voltage do to aging. Picture s should come out clearer. But don’t make output signal to strong as it will transmit the signal through the air and will be picked up on your tv wirelessly but that’s classified as illegal.
Great stuff as usual Vince! At the risk of making future videos less entertaining you might find it useful to know that Console5 has the service manuals for MD. I have 4 to refurb, I have bought replacement PSUs and new composite cables. The one I have started is working except for .... the reset switch....
I might have to try some of these fixes on my VA2. The board acts *really* weird. Sonic 1 plays distorted sound only on the title screen and freezes, while Sonic 2 plays no sound, but I can play through the entire game for example. The games are fine though, because they work on another board (VA6) just fine!
With RF you are talking about impedance not resistance. There may be a small coil across the RF output, its impedance on HF is high but on DC its resistance is low. With RF impedance must be matched, input to output..
Love these systems bought a japanese import megadrive from Microbyte in Manchester arndale with Thunderforce 3 game way back when, Microbyte has long gone now (shame) but was excellent for imports I always had a soft spot for the japanese games and artwork, sold that lot and bought a SNES then sold that and bought a UK megadrive, the one in your video is a later version missing the ext port on the back and the white writing around the cartridge port the earlier versions have better audio too
Well done again Vince! ✌️ Quite an easy fix in the end, but what a nightmare to diagnose. I've never understood how reset buttons work. My guess based on this video is that it reduces the power momentarily to change the behaviour of a transistor, relay or logic gate, in order to wipe the RAM.
I don't know about anybody else, but when I see something that says 'do NOT pull out'...I have this almost overwhelming urge to do just that!.......and wait for the bang!
Nice fix, pretty much just pin contact problem :) Tinkered with my computer today as opened my 8 years old laptop the first time today. Cleaned some dust from inside, and added 4gb of ram, now it has total of 8gb ram. Seems to work better with added memory :)
Never knew about the resistor on the 68k being a factory mod, I have one with that mod which also isn't working, I might have to dig it out and try the cart slot pins as I've already isoprop'd the board
I have done that so many times 19:14 Just about to cut a cable at the very edge of the plug and then I think to myself, if I leave it a bit longer I could reuse the discarded plug for something else in the future. 😂
The chinese PCBs are thinner than japanese one, that is why you have to push cartridge aside to make the console work with them. That was a common problem back in the 90's, and that is how you would recognize cheap ones.
Ohhh, interesting. So that might be why some games worked and some games didn't. As always Technixbul you have the answers. Cheers for sharing your knowledge. 👍👍👍
I just got the same console with no working RF which i am hoping to fix. Did you try the av lead on its own to see if that worked or how did you know to check the yellow cable wire.
I'm in the middle of a TG16 repair and those RF modulators suck lol. Pretty sure mine leaked electrolytic all over and they are a pain to remove. Want to just remove it entirely, id put in a composite if it was being resold or something.
Hi My Mate VINCE! i'm about to get a new Nintendo Switch, but i'm so confused between the Original one or the lite! my hands are little bit BIG so which is better for me? i REALLY need your advice.
Doesn't matter if they short as they are divided by the card edge on the cartridge. Only would matter if you turned it on with no game, which you should never do. Some RF shields are used to bond ground planes together on different boards, even sections of the same board. Apple was notorious for doing this. Keep them in tact.
Hi mate. Nice video. I used to (and kind of still do) fix these quite a lot (must have done dozens of them) and got really excited when you found the short on the RF as I was thinking "ooo - I would never had thought of that. Looks like I'll be learning something new!"...
A few tips, if you're doing this again:
- The red "do not remove" cover is the Sega CD expansion slot dust cover. That message is very dramatic..
- The LED wire is crudely slotted into the cable. I usually straighten and then cut the led legs in half so it's easier to get the connector on and off.
- The reset buttons on the MD1 and 2 are hot garbage. They either get stuck on or don't work about 50% of the time. Black screen can be a symptom of a stuck-on button. I usually replace them with little tactile buttons.
- Not only do I systematically clean and resolver the cart pins (on account of them being a major failing point), but I "respring" them too, which is what you were doing with that pin. A much quicker (and neater) way of doing that is to take a little flat-head screw driver and push down on the top of the pin. This makes the pin consatena down, bending towards the opposite pin. You can gently "bounce" down on it to fine-tune the bend.
- The 2x voltage regulators get super hot. That screw that goes into heat sink, effectively turns the entire RF shield into an extended heatsink. I ran tests, and without the RF shield, or even that screw, the heatsink gets LOADS hotter. My theory for that red epoxy stuff is to make sure they stay nice and tight to keep the contact good. Not sure. Either way, it's really common to get these broken units without the shield or screws in as people are, apparently, too lazy to put it back together properly.
- Not a tip, but it's really interesting (imo) that in pretty much each unit (more-so in the MD2) there are usually fingerprints in the heat shield from the original Chinese factory workers. The oils in their skins tarnished the chrome plating, kind of fossilising into the metal. Each are unique. You can sometimes see them though the bottom grille on MD2 better.
- The mod you did only needed a ground, so you could have literally soldered right next to it rather than running that long cable across the board. Having said that, it probably wouldn't have occurred to me to leave the exposed wire short and would have left me wrapping it in tape, preventing a short or something. I gave out an audible "...oh yeah..." when you did that :D
- oh. And, I'm sure you're already aware, but getting an RGB scart cable for that is a must. The picture/ colour quality difference is night and day.
I've developed heaps of my own tricks, over the years, to test and improve these things. Sadly, 90% of the issues with them are just dirt/ weak spring contacts, so it's very rarely anything overly interesting.
Looking forward to the 2nd video, but I fear it will be much the same - hence why I don't really do these consoles anymore :/
I actually have a MD2 that has a very interesting fault on, that I was going to offer up to you. Basically, all the sprites on the screen are totally scrambled and in the wrong place on the screen. If you're up for a bit more of an actual fault-finding, component swapping mission, I can send that one over to you :)
All the best,
Luke
Yo almost 1 mil
Well I know this is three years late but I recently got a megadrive, interestingly all colours show however whites get replaced randomly by yellow or green, I'm thinking the caps but since you have vast knowledge have you ran into this before?
Vince is so old school he’s the only man still using a RF switch in 2021. Great fix.
I use them all the time... I also convert stuff to composite out... I wonder how much longer we will have that on new TV's
R
RGB to OSSC, HDMI to TV is the way to go!!!!!
@@Dez083 Perhaps, but at over £100 not everyone is going to have one. Some retro consoles don't generate RGB. Most TVs still accept composite and a mod for that costs less than £5.
Oi I use it with the Genesis mate
I'm using rf switch on my nes in 2022 and once my faulty sega genesis comes in it has rf switch as well
Had to be first on this one ;) The reset switch is resistive rather than gives a short! So probably nothing wrong with the reset switch other than a clean of the contacts needed. It can seem like the slot is just not working regardless, but that's usually a sign you need to clean it with something more abrassive (very fine sand paper), but I generally just push folded paper into these slots (covered in IPA or deoxit). Fine grit sand paper is a last resort as any damage to the surface of the socket pins will translate into damage on cart edges etc. It can seem like the slot is just not working regardless, but that's usually a sign you need to clean it with something more abrassive. Great to see it working!!! =D
Haha, congrats on first! Thanks Chris, that damn reset switch!!! It was perfect all along. It was a bit of pain to desolder as well, at least it will teach me to check for resistance change rather than a short in the future. I will try the DeoxIT paper trick on the next one, if it works it can be a tea break repair video instead. Cheers mate :-)
@@Mymatevince PAL-I if memory serves... that`s PAL- Italy ??
I repair lots of these mega drives, I've 6 on the bench at present (RGB Issues), 4 ready to be shipped out. If you ever do need to replace the reset switch, here is the part number for the new tactile option.: JB15FPG05 Love your videos by the way Vince!
Lovely to see this MD working again. Odd that the cart slot pins seemed wider on the left side. I guess it could be caused by an owner consistently pushing the carts in at a bit of an angle? 🤷♂️
Cheers Steve, pushing in or maybe taking them out at an angle on one side. GadgetUK mentioned it might be more related to dirty contacts. So possible by bending the pins in, it allowed the cart to clean the contacts which then fixed the problem. We'll see what happens on the 2nd one as the issue is very similar :-)
You never fail to send me of to sleep Vince not that I don't enjoy the content quite the opposite its so informative that my brain melts and I fall asleep love the videos mate
Same, i use youtube to fall asleep most night's
As someone has already said, the port on the side is for the Mega CD add on.
The EXT port was only on the original model and as was intended for a modem peripheral that never released (we got Sega Meganet instead which connected via a cartridge).
The "mod" on the MC68000 chip would have been done at the factory and was common on early models to fix a bug that could cause the console to crash.
Hi Vince, great repair video! RF is rubbish, but the Mega Drive's AV out is great as it does full RGB out and stereo audio! My brother made me a DIN to SCART cable back in the '90s which I still use today. If you're going to re-sell these I'd recommend putting in a region/50/60hz mod. If you're going to keep one to play games on, I'd also recommend getting a scanline doubler which will output a nice picture via HDMI.
Hey Vince, it's quite normal for most UHF TV modulators to read a short circuit at their output when tested with a DC multimeter, as high RF works very differently to DC voltages. Without access to UHF test gear, the best method is to test the voltage at the power input of the modulator section, and if it's good, then tuning an analogue TV channel to the UHF output frequency (normally UHF Channel 36 or thereabouts in the UK) you should be able to see a difference in the static on screen when you have it tuned correctly, but a DC test will invariably show a dead short at the modulator output.
Are you sure you and Steve aren't twins, you upload together with precision timing 😁🤣
I'd like to see ebay repair challenge again. Would like to see @TheCod3r participate.
@@rmac4411 I don't think there's one planned for this year but I'd love to take part lol
Synchronised soldering; the new Olympic sport.
I remember when I subscribed to your channel and you only had around 100,000 subs, and now you have almost 800,000! I have really enjoyed watching your videos over this time, and I’m excited for when you reach 1 mil!
I kinda support taking the switch off, its legitimately good troubleshooting - you go from easiest things to determine to hardest ones, follow the power and that HAS been done here. good job as near as i can tell.
To get the LED disconnected, bend the legs up and slide the wire off from there. Make note of the polarity colors and leg length. Red's positive/longer leg, I believe. I have my console in storage and can't be bothered to get it out to check, lol.
Great repair Vince, you can get av cables or scart ones very affordable this days, because rf is really BAD but back to the video is always nice to see a Sega machine being repaired from someone who really has passion for the system and for a no professional like you said you are putting some of them to shame (I mean the ones that called themselves pros but have no passion or interests to help). Keep the good work 👍
I'm amazed by your reasoning and the logic behind it I've picked up a few things on this video which is going to help me tackle and solve similar problems.
Hi Vince. Been unable to watch for a while. Catching up now and really enjoyed this fix as my first video back.
A fast way of testing a MD I with video/RF problems is to connect a pair of headphones to the headphone jack. Insert a game and check if you can hear anything when the games has started.
I dig your repair videos sir.
It's a nice touch that you employed the horse race roulette game to select the first patient.
Hi mate, I’ve been watching you for a while now and thinking I should give this a try! Anyway brought my daughter a Xbox one with water damage and failed hard drive, I rewatched your video when you had a failed drive and also many of your water damaged Switches. Long story short my daughter is now the proud owner of a working Xbox one! Thanks for uploading these and helping people learn (and also saving me a good £80!! 🤣)
Brilliant troubleshooting as usual. Funny I just fixed one that had the same issue but with all games and found that a broken trace (pin 4 of IC4) had caused the problem. Thank you for keeping them alive!
That expansion port at the side is for the Mega CD. Not seen one with an ex port on the back.
its only on earlier models, its for the sega modem, a service only available in japan.
They are like female 9 pin controller ports!
That's right it was also used in the megadrives arcade hardware equivalent system 14 system c and system e for coin counters and other backend stuff.
It was also used as a basic debug port through a coders cable and could offer basic debugging. The port is a sort of cut down parallel port even though it resembles a serial port or d sub port.
If you want to interface with you'll have to use logic level conversion. It's also no different to the front facing controller ports except it's female instead of male connectors on the front.
@@SproutyPottedPlant Does that make them "serial" offenders?
I'll get my coat...
Glad you said it, I was like "Geez Vince, come on man, what do you think that is?". :P
I have an intellevision that I have to manipulate the cartridge the same way. This fix might actually work for that. Awesome simple fix. Thanks for putting in the work so I can save time.
Another great video Vince, would never have got to the connector pin problem.... nice catch!
I'm totally new to all this repairing consoles stuff but would like to have a go on some of my old ones . I have learned alot . Thank you
Very cool you did the choose with your previously fixed electric derby. And you fixed the console as well.
Switches also can be used in a circuit to change resistance which the processor can change state. Normal switches are either ON or OFF. Great content Vince!!!! Keep it up!
Still got mine from 1993, also got the arcade power stick that was bought separately. Must drag it out and see if it still works.... 🤔🤞🤞 Great video Vince 👌🍻🍻
Vince, these are the type of videos I love to watch, long fixing videos, the short tea break ones are over to fast. More longer fixing console videos please 👌😁😁😁
Awesome how you incorporated a previous repair project into this repair to make the repair choice.
My mate vince has done over 1000 videos and he has 600000 subs and there is people with 500 videos with over 5million my mate vince deserves more love
Bending the contacts in the cartridge slot back toward the middle with a needle is exactly how I fixed the blinking problem on my NES years ago 😁.
MAGIC VINCE IS HERE!!!! NICE WORK
That reset switch really threw you into a loop, it seems.
And I do wonder what caused the cartridge slot to widen on one side, but not the other...
Another great fix, in any case! 👍
It did and there was nothing wrong with it! At least it will teach me to look for a resistance change rather than a direct short in the future. Between the wasted time on this and the Game & Watch carbon tracks I will be sure in the future to check for resistances, if the continuity tester is not making sense. Cheers Operational :-)
Maybe someone’s tried putting something that shouldn’t be in it down the slot
Nice repair! Especially enjoyed knowing about the reset switch and appreciate the comments on this video as well.
Thanks HFR, yeah the comments are super helpful on all these Trying to Fix vids :-)
Just a little background info: The model with the extension port is the launch/Gen 1 model of Mega Drive (easily recognized by the High Definition Graphics and Stereo Sound tagline, which was removed from the later revisions.)
And the "odd slot" on the bottom is the edge connector for the Mega-CD.
Hi Vince, Firstly, very informative video! Just a quick note about the black screen errors.
The boot process for the MD has a small security check, The black screens that most people will tend to see is related to a failure within this process.. The infamous "Blowing" trick of the cartridge stemmed from this where the cartridge doesn't sit correctly within slot.
When the console boots, It reads the cartridge and has longword bytes written in the ROM @ address $100, This translates to "SEGA" in big endian ASCII code.
The TMSS checks to see if this is written correctly and will show the usual "Produced By or Under License From Sega Enterprises Ltd." message.
If it fails usually because of the cartridge connection, it will show the black screen. It was interesting to see how SEGA did their best to prevent unlicensed games.
Hope you dont mind the history lesson! If you want a little more, I recommend the SEGA vs ACCOLADE lawsuit, A very interesting topic on licensing requirements and a sneaky way of getting round the rules back in the 90's!
Cheers!
it's nice to get a (relatively) easy fix sometimes. nice video, Vince!
Thanks mate :-)
Love the trying to fix videos. Thanks, Vince.
finally, someone who calls it the mega drive
It was supposed to be called a mega drive in North America too but I think someone already owned the rights to the name here.
Yes! It is very nice to not hear that stupid Bible computer name!
To be fair, had Sega kept the name for North American release, there would've been legal problems.
Good job! If I don't have a proper video cable, I always convert the RF output to composite on these kinds of things. RF is just a headache.
12:28 welcome to the strange world of RF. Forget all you know about everything.
Sooo happy been waiting for console repair video awesome as always
"Nice picture"
*Laughs in RGB*
Good job in fixing that Sega Mega Drive. Or Genesis for me in the States. I hope your other ones end up in being fixed like that one.
Great video! I want to get a Sega Genesis just for some gaming. I had this system when I was a kid. And I had bought more at 2nd hand stores for like $3-$6 USD through the years but people kept stealing them from me.
when it comes to megadrives i always just photograph and inspect them for obvious damage but dont chase down rabbit holes, use some kitchen and stove top cleaner to scrub down the board, wash and then alcohol rinse. ensure they're bone dry and retest. more often than not when they die its because of a chip you can't replace. anything short of that will be obvious like the power switch/ power jack/ av ports being corroded or the solder joints on them have cracked and need reflowing.
Vince does it again amazing vince!
To the best of my knowledge, the red material on the screw heads is to prevent loosening. There is a product called Loctite that is used directly on threads, and I suspect this is something similar.
BTW the other Mega Drive with 'High Definition Audio' is a really early one and is highly desirable and pretty rare. It shouldn't show the initial produced under licence by Sega text when you boot it.
Thanks for the info Chris :-)
@@Mymatevince Yes. The board in that one will be revision VA0 which is the earliest and arguably best MegaDrive hardware SEGA made. I suggest if you can get it going you keep it as your main? Also you can pick up scart cables for all revisions on eBay for a few quid that will drastically improve your picture quality.
It's not that rare, I have 2! VA6 ones are common, same audio circuitry, no HD graphics, TMSS! Look at the rear to tell the good ones from the bad ones.
@@SimonNemeth It can't be a VA0; that board was exclusive to Japan at its launch. I think Europe's launch machine was VA3. I know North America got the VA2.
Mines just says SEGA then boots up the sonic games
My Megadrive Mate Vince Strikes back
i love retro repairs
Another good fix Vince!
i had a sega genesis as we call the in the good ole USA, and mine looked similar to this one and i even remember that little port you noted. by now im sure many have mentioned what it is. but in case not, it was the connection port that the original sega cd used to connect to the system.
when you think about it cartridge based systems all seemed to have some bottom or side connection port for future peripheral planning. the NES had on on the bottom, not sure if the SNES had one, the N64 had one. sadly at least here in the US and ive heard over there across the pond, we westerners never got those add ons. they all stayed local in japan......lucky bastards lol
Use a touch of DeOxit on those outputs, like RCA and Coax ect... with a brillo pad wet with some deoxit, just wrap around and twist will clean it right on up! :)
I love how old consoles are almost bulletproof
Love MD fixes, since it was one of the few consoles I owned as a kid, after an Atari 2600 and a Master System.
Cheers Mr K. Hopefully I can look at this other MD in the next week.
@@Mymatevince that'd be lovely, thank you!
Quality as always Vince, I bet your garage is full ; )
Hi vince, on the rf output there should be a voltage regulator for the strength of the output sometimes need to up the voltage do to aging. Picture s should come out clearer. But don’t make output signal to strong as it will transmit the signal through the air and will be picked up on your tv wirelessly but that’s classified as illegal.
The original PSU's were linear, so there's a chance that a modern, switched-mode alternative may introduce some noise into the output.
i remember my sister learning to play Mozart Fur Elise while i have been playing my sega... pretty fit soundtrack for me :D
Great fix Vince
Hi Vince, love the content. Really enjoyable to watch! It would be really interesting if you ever do work on a Nintendo 64 id love to see it!
Great stuff as usual Vince! At the risk of making future videos less entertaining you might find it useful to know that Console5 has the service manuals for MD.
I have 4 to refurb, I have bought replacement PSUs and new composite cables. The one I have started is working except for .... the reset switch....
The connection on the side that u pulled the cover of with the red cover is for the mega cd add on
I love your channel
I might have to try some of these fixes on my VA2. The board acts *really* weird.
Sonic 1 plays distorted sound only on the title screen and freezes, while Sonic 2 plays no sound, but I can play through the entire game for example. The games are fine though, because they work on another board (VA6) just fine!
Great video fella 👍👍
With RF you are talking about impedance not resistance. There may be a small coil across the RF output, its impedance on HF is high but on DC its resistance is low. With RF impedance must be matched, input to output..
Love these systems bought a japanese import megadrive from Microbyte in Manchester arndale with Thunderforce 3 game way back when, Microbyte has long gone now (shame) but was excellent for imports I always had a soft spot for the japanese games and artwork, sold that lot and bought a SNES then sold that and bought a UK megadrive, the one in your video is a later version missing the ext port on the back and the white writing around the cartridge port the earlier versions have better audio too
Well done again Vince! ✌️ Quite an easy fix in the end, but what a nightmare to diagnose.
I've never understood how reset buttons work. My guess based on this video is that it reduces the power momentarily to change the behaviour of a transistor, relay or logic gate, in order to wipe the RAM.
I don't know about anybody else, but when I see something that says 'do NOT pull out'...I have this almost overwhelming urge to do just that!.......and wait for the bang!
Nice fix, pretty much just pin contact problem :)
Tinkered with my computer today as opened my 8 years old laptop the first time today. Cleaned some dust from inside, and added 4gb of ram, now it has total of 8gb ram. Seems to work better with added memory :)
Hi mate I absolutely love that vedio you are truly fantastic at doing repair videos regards Ryan
this really brings back memories, also love the touch for selecting which one to fix :)
16:00 BEHOLD Vince’s hand has an angelic glow!! I knew it! He’s an angel 🥰
Hi Vince. Do you just use regular wet wipes to give the plastic a clean?
Love you Vince
Nice video Like your video I watched your video first time in 2017
Now all Vince needs is a Sega cd
nice fix, my all time favourite console.
Never knew about the resistor on the 68k being a factory mod, I have one with that mod which also isn't working, I might have to dig it out and try the cart slot pins as I've already isoprop'd the board
question is why are you using RF on this system? i'm state side and use an scart rgb cable with an scart to hdmi box for my Genesis, awesome video (:
hi vince ever read an old book called the dice man? you could live your life like him using the derby machine lol
Dude i love this so much you are amazing.
How do you fix things if you don't know that RF output is about 75ohms and beep signal is comming in cases below 100ohms ???
I have done that so many times 19:14 Just about to cut a cable at the very edge of the plug and then I think to myself, if I leave it a bit longer I could reuse the discarded plug for something else in the future. 😂
I just clicked for the green rectangle thing. That’s all. Thank you.
The chinese PCBs are thinner than japanese one, that is why you have to push cartridge aside to make the console work with them. That was a common problem back in the 90's, and that is how you would recognize cheap ones.
Ohhh, interesting. So that might be why some games worked and some games didn't. As always Technixbul you have the answers. Cheers for sharing your knowledge. 👍👍👍
Hi, very good video ! Is it possible to use av cable (slot near RF slot) to plug you genesis ? Does it work ?
I watched all these videos back then but I didn't know I did.
My memory loss is terrible
HI M8 dont forget the RF socket has an impeadance of 75 ohms so buzzer no good as anything-under 300 ohms will cause buzzer to sound.
300? all of my meters beep only under 50ish ohms.
many Rf outputs have a coil between RF out and ground. It's for DC a short, but AC cant pass it.
I love you Vince
I just got the same console with no working RF which i am hoping to fix. Did you try the av lead on its own to see if that worked or how did you know to check the yellow cable wire.
I'm in the middle of a TG16 repair and those RF modulators suck lol. Pretty sure mine leaked electrolytic all over and they are a pain to remove. Want to just remove it entirely, id put in a composite if it was being resold or something.
I am 2:30 in and can't wait to find out what's going on with this thing!
I have seen manufactures use the rf shield (apple) as a conductor for ground between pieces...
Hi My Mate VINCE! i'm about to get a new Nintendo Switch, but i'm so confused between the Original one or the lite! my hands are little bit BIG so which is better for me? i REALLY need your advice.
Doesn't matter if they short as they are divided by the card edge on the cartridge. Only would matter if you turned it on with no game, which you should never do. Some RF shields are used to bond ground planes together on different boards, even sections of the same board. Apple was notorious for doing this. Keep them in tact.
Can I ask what is the green Horse Racing game to the upper right? Is that Sega-related? Thanks!
Is there a mod in this mega drive?
Because of the small diode and the wires?
The red stuff might be some kinda of thread locker, to keep the screw from loosening over time