Gotta always remember: thick planes of traces are for power, usually one source and one or more drains. If one of them is unpopulated (or populated with a data pin), something’s horribly wrong. The capacitor is there to smooth the DC-voltage as much as possible to catch any voltage fluctuations, since integrated circuits are susceptible to it.
@@Mymatevince I love your videos mate ive learned a lot from watching you repair things ive managed to fix 2 xboxones from also watching you do things thanks for the videos and keep them coming pal.
@Deonte Hemphill That does not at all sound like a power supply issue. Sounds more like an issue with the console itself. If you are not used to fixing consoles then this might be one that you would want to stay away from.
@Deonte Hemphill Lol it's not that simple buddy... It's something you would have to open up and diagnose. The sorts of questions you're asking tells me that you really should just forget about buying busted systems if you really have no knowledge or experience repairing them. If you want to learn about doing your own repairs then you are going to have to do your own research and learn about it. Plenty of Google searching and TH-cam watching should help, and of course you will need to buy good quality soldering equipment, so you will need to research that as well.
Well chuffed with Pt 1, excellent work there I must say. Pretty sure I opened Mickey, as I said in one of the comments below, I'd tried and failed to get the chips on and off the Megadrive PCB's easily, mostly burning the boards, getting frustrated and firing them towards the bin... I might have managed to get Micky off it's original board and onto that one, then stuck it in the wrong place.. face palm if I did, rookie error, otherwise, it would have been from the previous owner, this came in a big box of faulty stuff, mostly disc based ones, along with the rest of the MD Carts, some NES, a couple of SNES ones ( Parodius and Super Metroid, one just needed the pins cleaning, Metroid needed a complete board swap though, but both working ). Looking forward to Pt 2 for sure, and I'll keep putting bits n pieces aside as I come across them, as they always make great viewing :)
Nice result there. Micromachines 96 is an absolutely amazing game. I got it when it came out and absolutely hammered it. 24 years later i still have the original cartridge but I've been playing it on retropie and I still remember every track. 👍
Saw an interesting video where a guy filed down a brass fitting with a very fine file. He then mixed the filings with flux, applied it to the cleaned bridges then applied solder on a wide chisel tip and dragged down. The fine filings enabled the solder to bridge the gaps easily. Worth a try!
I recently repaired a US copy of Trouble Shooter. The original board had very severe pin damage and one of the pins had a break. The pin lifted off the board while trying to fix it. Since this game was oned by my local independent game store in which i am good friends with the manager and owner. We found a sacrifice board from Columns with the exact same board. I swapped the IC chip to fix it!
What a result Vince. Great success. For the first one, I'd simply file down the plastic on the edge touching the cart,and perhaps put some felt tape, like Tesa 51608, to keep it from fluffing in the breeze.
Great stuff =D It's hard dealing with so much damage like that! One thing that can help make it tidier - put a strip of kapton tape down over all the pads before you start, just leave a tiny little bit exposed on the edge to solder onto. That way you would get less solder and it will look tidier when finished! Well spotted on the Castle of Illusion cart!
I always forget about the kapton tape Chris. I think you have told me that before...next time I promise, it will be done. Thanks again for the support and helpful tips you provide over here :-)
You really ought to get yourself an EPROM programmer, Vince. Super useful for verifying and replacing bad ROMs on old console games and other things like that.
One of the few things I accomplished during lockdown was fixing my MD copy of The Lawnmower Man. Accidentally fried the original chip during a failed mod, but fortunately I had just bought a compatible EPROM and writer.
when u use solder to breach some pins u have tu use the iron tip in low temperature and u need solder with no flux in it because this made it act like play doh! good video
it's not a bodge but their are ways of making it tidier, just use blue masking tape to cover the rest of the contact and use some magnet wire cut slightly larger than the gap you're trying to jump and it'll make it a more robust long lasting repair with less solder blobs that can stress and recrack.
Another lovely video from My Mate Vince! I love the Trying to fix and Tea Break fix series! Thank you! Vince, I loved the mod video for the switch you did a while back... Do you plan on making a "Trying to mod" series someday? For example, modifying one of the already fixed Mega Drives with an RGB bypass to improve image quality? I would love to see something like that! Regards from Brazil! ;)
Solder is not the best conductor, I would typically run a small wire myself. Would have been faster as well than sitting there building up solder IMO for some of the larger gaps.
The Micro Machines game mode that Vince was reminiscing about is the same, but Head-to-Head Mode, where the player at the back lost a point (or life) when hitting the edge of the screen when too far back in the race, and therefor had to win a certain number of points in a row to win the race. The game is fun and was one of my favourite Mega Drive games. I believe that the '96 version was updated from the original MM2 game.
Vince, the best way to fix them is to blow in the gap the hardest you can. It used to fix any Nes, Snes or Genesis games when I was a kid. This video was so wholesome, especially the successful celebrations. If one day I manage to fix my parents old Polycon 4003, it will be thanks to you Vince. Cheers from Belgium ! Ps: of course I didn't actually mean the special tip that would bring some humidity and so, corrosion to the contact pins.
Hi vince I’m in the south east of the uk and I’ve been watching your videos for a few years now and I thoroughly enjoy watching you I am 47 years old and I can’t stand to throw stuff away I always try to repair what I can I’m a welding engineer and tool maker by trade so I try my hand at anything other than gas works Anything els goes lol You have come such a long way I just wish I had the balls to do what you do Keep up the good work
You're remembering playing micro machines on multiplayer. The person who fell behind lost because they can't control their car once they're no longer displayed on screen. On single player though, it didn't matter, so it's just a regular race instead.
If the board flexes at all the solder will break and you'll get opens. Use a tiny non-insulated wire about 3mm or .125 inch to bridge gaps and use flux.
I honestly think you could have fixed it without the wire for the Micro Machines cart. What did you end up doing about the bulging shell tho, due to where it contacts the added solder?
It still fitted into the Mega Drive even with the bulge, the 2 screws helped pull the shell together so it was only bulging a couple of millimetres or so :-)
A big reason to not use solder for bridging is that the point behind solder is to create an intermetallic compound (IMC), the layer between the PCB pad and the component lead. The formulation of a solder alloy serves to form the best possible IMC (no Kirkendall voiding, and resistance to stress and electromigration). When used as a low melting point 'wire', it tends to be far more fragile and weak than a bit of copper wire, with worse properties in general. In the case of leaded solder (63/37 or non-eutectic 60/40), imagine why you'd not want to use lead for wires, let alone tin.
The first one is why you never use brasso on games. Sure you get the contacts shiny and happy, but of you don't have the game apart to clean it, you leave the stuff sitting sandwiched against the board, and brasso is very corrosive.
I guess the answer depends on if you’re doing that repair as a chargeable service or if it’s for yourself. If it’s for someone else you’d want to make sure it was a proper lasting repair. If it’s just for yourself then a quick bodge seems perfectly acceptable to me
A wire is far a better job and about time, it just takes practice. I saw you struggle a lot even with the lower temp. Buy single core wire awg32 Regarding the solder mask, put the board in direct sun light and it will cure in like 1h
On the Mickey cartridge why would a previous owner have taken a working chip out and moved it along one? It had to be non-working to attempt a repair in the first place no matter they stuffed up replacing it? It just doesn't make any sense. Regardless excellent repair.
Great video mate! I always enjoy watching your vids, especially as a fellow uk resident! Lol if I ever find some old toy in my room or attic that’s not working I may send it your way. Btw could you tell me the name of the music at 10:00 please? It’s lovely! 😊
Hi vince for me the idea is good but instead of use lead solder try with unlead its more elastic or use some conductive paint its work very well and apply solder mask on it the pcb fit much better with this in the cartridge
that rainbow like screen and buzzing on caslte of illusion was the cartridge attempting to fry itself, im extremely suprised you got it working again after cuz that usually toasts them into never working again
M. Mouse: Castle of Illusions was a good game. Did you ever play Kid Chameleon? There were 100 or so levels on that one, and you picked up different helmets to change your character and special abilities. There was also a cool warp trick built into the end of the first level (it was a hidden cheat) to transport you to the final boss. The boss had about 30 eyes, and you had to jump onto his head to pop out all of his eyes. That game had TONS of replayability. I probably rented it 4 times before I finally bought it.
Cracking game castle of illusion is on the megadrive completed it again just the other day on the raspberry pi, believe the micro machines cartridges were called 'j carts' as they had joystick ports, great video
What you may find better to bridge the gap where there is no more copper is stained glass copper tape. It is adhesive on one side and copper on the other and you can use it with soldering (as you would for stained glass). You could cut it thinner as needed. It would seem to me that placing tape and soldering would be far easier than bridging the gap. I can link one if you prefer but an search for “stained glass foiling tape” on Amazon or something similar should get you what you’re looking for. I’ve never used it for this application but I can’t see why it wouldn’t work. The cost of entry is certainly low enough to give it a go. Hope it helps. Cheers.
Hi Vince, I'm just wondering if you've considered (or would consider) obtaining a small light table/light box (used for viewing slides) and placing the cartridge board on the surface to visually inspect the traces? Yes, obviously you can (and do) check individual traces with your multi-meter, a light table/light box is useful for a quick visual trace inspection (the light shines through the board, making broken traces more visible)
Thanks Dave, my son already has one for tracing drawings. I could give it a go and see what it is like. Hopefully I will remember this next time. Thank you :-)
that 6-1 catridge came with the sega when i had mine as a child.. shame u got 2 the same games there lol.......but that 6-1 had 2 verison a yellow label and red
You really made my day! The moments of truth, the suspence.. 2 times, wel done. I have a good laugh everytime it works, it's like drum roll............ YES! keep up the good work!
Could you please do some repair work for me? I have a few Mega Drive games that play fine, but the odd sound effect is missing here and there. I have a copy of Mega Games 2 on which half the beats on the Game Select music are missing if you reset from Golden Axe. I’ve played these games on many different systems.
Just imagine if you had used a high silver or gold conductive paint you would have done them traces in a tenth of the time :) I use a high gold paint which sets hard and I use it to repaint corroded traces on my Soviet quartz watch circuit boards using a fine dagger brush I draw it across from known good point to known good point then put something like clear mask on to lock it in. Got the stuff off ebay and its been an absolute spot on fix that is permanent and doesn't require potentially destructive heat on tiny components like on ISA or ETA circuit boards. You can buy high gold and silver content epoxy's and glues which are used to affix the tiny gold wires from quartz motors to the circuit board and is thicker and sets rock hard but is super conductive. Back in the day of early overclocking, we used car rear window demister repair paint to unlock AMD cpu's by carefully linking certain points on the topmost die to bypass the multiplier lock, you could do it equally as well by fine copper strands looped around pins if you didn't want to permanently damage your very expensive CPU.
Well there is flux inside soldering wire, i don't even use flux with it. Yes it is ok to lower the temp as long as you can melt ot and connect 2 joints but i would put 0.02mm wires to all of the broken traces. There is a lot of corrosion on that first one, even under the ICs. Do not cut the strand before you tin it and solder it, it will be waaay easier to hold the whole wire and solder end of the strand to one side of trace then pull and solder to other side of the trace connection. On the second board, you should desolder the whole IC, clean and check the board then solder it cleanly, because heating the whole DIL40 package to 350C and pushing it to click while hot is very bad thing for chip. Buy a Automatic Desoldering gun. it wil make your live easier.
I'm by no means an expert but i think just jumping the gaps with solder wouldn't last as long as wire. The plastic case digs in to the solder as you showed so this could cause the small gap to crack over time.
Love the videos Vince. Yes the solder bridges are not a viable repair (low temp to get to bridge=cold solder joint that will crack), but they are a viable trouble shooting technique to insure it is worth the bother to do the repair correctly, in this case to insure the cartridge chips are not also faulty.
What's stronger? A blob of metal or a bit of rubber coated copper? I go with the solder. We adhere joints all the time and they stick but a wire right in line with that harsh plastic - something tells me the wire won't last without a lot of protection. In my repairs I'd do a little blob. I think you can do an even better job with adherence by using some coated copper wires to have a bridge to the gaps in the traces
I didn't Matthew. I looked at it again off camera and proved the fault onto the top ROM chip. The resistor trick didn't fix that one though so it remains broken.
Flicky was the bird who made further appearances in Sonic the hedgehog games - sonic rescued him and his mates by destroying the badniks that they were hidden in by dr robotnik/eggman. I love the Micro Machines games on megadrive as I always played them when I was in my teens.
there are pens with nichole or silver that you can use to "draw" the tracers and connect them. MG Chemicals 841AR-P Nickel Conductive Pen, 7.5g MG Chemicals 838AR-P Total Ground Carbon Conductive Pen, 4g, Carbon Black MG Chemicals 841AR-15ML Nickel Print (Conductive Paint)
It amazes me how many problems there are with official cartridges, as opposed to cheap pirate ones, which are also 30 years old, but they always work perfectly.
To be honest I don't think it's a bad job. I'm only concerned about the fragility as I think traces or routed wires would be more flexible as well as thinner, with the thicker and stiffer solder I can imagine cracks forming in the bridges as the plastic in the cartridge rubs against them.
Hi, apparently it is a capacitor. I have been told previously that sometimes capacitors can have coloured bands on them, and look like resistors but are capacitors. I think there were messages about it when I did the Paperboy Mega Drive Game video from a couple of years back :-)
Nice bit of work but I would always recommend this use a fine copper wire or tracer wire and then that is designed to to be heated up to high temperature but what you're working on it needs a low temperature and I would also put a very streamly fine-tip and put flux where you are soldering
Hey Chris, I think flux would have made the solder stick to the traces more and just form a ball of solder on each side of the break. I wanted the solder to jump over the gap so I didn't want it to flow as well as it does when using flux :-)
Hi, I believe that you can repair it better with a "Conductive Pen", and tracks can be more thinner than solder. Good works at all!. Greetings from Spain.
Solder tip: Use Kapton tape on the cartridge pins will help to block the solder to flow in the wrong direction
I was thinking that myself, tape up the pins apart from a tiny bit and it would have nice and tidy edges
Removable soldermask. Good idea.
Thanks Taltech :-)
A metal binder clip also works great for this- it keeps the pad cool so the solder won't flow onto it.
🔧🖌️🎮
That sense of satisfaction was real. I was wondering if Castle of Illusion would work, especially.
Copper tape, conductive glue. 2 very quick and easy ways to reconnect those pins.
Good work nonetheless, pleasure to watch as always.
Gotta always remember: thick planes of traces are for power, usually one source and one or more drains.
If one of them is unpopulated (or populated with a data pin), something’s horribly wrong.
The capacitor is there to smooth the DC-voltage as much as possible to catch any voltage fluctuations, since integrated circuits are susceptible to it.
Thanks Operational. Once I spotted it, it then became obvious. Hopefully I will spot it quicker in the future :-)
@@Mymatevince I love your videos mate ive learned a lot from watching you repair things ive managed to fix 2 xboxones from also watching you do things thanks for the videos and keep them coming pal.
@Deonte Hemphill That does not at all sound like a power supply issue. Sounds more like an issue with the console itself. If you are not used to fixing consoles then this might be one that you would want to stay away from.
@Deonte Hemphill Lol it's not that simple buddy... It's something you would have to open up and diagnose.
The sorts of questions you're asking tells me that you really should just forget about buying busted systems if you really have no knowledge or experience repairing them.
If you want to learn about doing your own repairs then you are going to have to do your own research and learn about it. Plenty of Google searching and TH-cam watching should help, and of course you will need to buy good quality soldering equipment, so you will need to research that as well.
@Deonte Hemphill Lol ok, well best of luck to ya then.
Well chuffed with Pt 1, excellent work there I must say. Pretty sure I opened Mickey, as I said in one of the comments below, I'd tried and failed to get the chips on and off the Megadrive PCB's easily, mostly burning the boards, getting frustrated and firing them towards the bin... I might have managed to get Micky off it's original board and onto that one, then stuck it in the wrong place.. face palm if I did, rookie error, otherwise, it would have been from the previous owner, this came in a big box of faulty stuff, mostly disc based ones, along with the rest of the MD Carts, some NES, a couple of SNES ones ( Parodius and Super Metroid, one just needed the pins cleaning, Metroid needed a complete board swap though, but both working ).
Looking forward to Pt 2 for sure, and I'll keep putting bits n pieces aside as I come across them, as they always make great viewing :)
Cheers Mike, I will email you over part 2 now :-)
Brasso metal cleaner works great on those pins too. Love your videos. Watch them from start to end.
Nice result there. Micromachines 96 is an absolutely amazing game. I got it when it came out and absolutely hammered it. 24 years later i still have the original cartridge but I've been playing it on retropie and I still remember every track. 👍
Saw an interesting video where a guy filed down a brass fitting with a very fine file. He then mixed the filings with flux, applied it to the cleaned bridges then applied solder on a wide chisel tip and dragged down. The fine filings enabled the solder to bridge the gaps easily. Worth a try!
That sounds like an interesting idea. Thank you for sharing it :-)
I recently repaired a US copy of Trouble Shooter. The original board had very severe pin damage and one of the pins had a break. The pin lifted off the board while trying to fix it. Since this game was oned by my local independent game store in which i am good friends with the manager and owner. We found a sacrifice board from Columns with the exact same board. I swapped the IC chip to fix it!
What a result Vince. Great success. For the first one, I'd simply file down the plastic on the edge touching the cart,and perhaps put some felt tape, like Tesa 51608, to keep it from fluffing in the breeze.
Great tip!
Great stuff =D It's hard dealing with so much damage like that! One thing that can help make it tidier - put a strip of kapton tape down over all the pads before you start, just leave a tiny little bit exposed on the edge to solder onto. That way you would get less solder and it will look tidier when finished! Well spotted on the Castle of Illusion cart!
I always forget about the kapton tape Chris. I think you have told me that before...next time I promise, it will be done. Thanks again for the support and helpful tips you provide over here :-)
Amazing seeing your pure joy! Especially with the game of our youth playing in front of you! For a second again you were that same child.
Love the Mickey fix mate, very well worked out. Your soldering is pro level now, give yourself a pat on the back :)
You really ought to get yourself an EPROM programmer, Vince. Super useful for verifying and replacing bad ROMs on old console games and other things like that.
One of the few things I accomplished during lockdown was fixing my MD copy of The Lawnmower Man. Accidentally fried the original chip during a failed mod, but fortunately I had just bought a compatible EPROM and writer.
when u use solder to breach some pins u have tu use the iron tip in low temperature and u need solder with no flux in it because this made it act like play doh! good video
Wonder if any of the others will have the same shifted issue?
I did not think solder bridges without wire would work. Great job!
Smashing it! To flip the chip around making it work that’s fab!!!! Looking forward to part 2!!
it's not a bodge but their are ways of making it tidier, just use blue masking tape to cover the rest of the contact and use some magnet wire cut slightly larger than the gap you're trying to jump and it'll make it a more robust long lasting repair with less solder blobs that can stress and recrack.
Another lovely video from My Mate Vince! I love the Trying to fix and Tea Break fix series! Thank you!
Vince, I loved the mod video for the switch you did a while back... Do you plan on making a "Trying to mod" series someday? For example, modifying one of the already fixed Mega Drives with an RGB bypass to improve image quality? I would love to see something like that! Regards from Brazil! ;)
Thanks Greg, maybe one day. I am open to all suggestions, thank you :-)
Solder is not the best conductor, I would typically run a small wire myself. Would have been faster as well than sitting there building up solder IMO for some of the larger gaps.
For cart repairs can you use clear nail polish to cover the soldering?
I have been told in the past that you can just use nail polish.
Good starting points into repairing small circuit boards for little money
Would conductive paint do the bridge? may be worth a try. Great video as always.
Sometimes I lay in bed at night and wonder how many random games consoles vince owns
I wonder why the ROM has survived the Heat Gun massacre ;-)
The Micro Machines game mode that Vince was reminiscing about is the same, but Head-to-Head Mode, where the player at the back lost a point (or life) when hitting the edge of the screen when too far back in the race, and therefor had to win a certain number of points in a row to win the race. The game is fun and was one of my favourite Mega Drive games.
I believe that the '96 version was updated from the original MM2 game.
Thanks John :-)
Vince, the best way to fix them is to blow in the gap the hardest you can. It used to fix any Nes, Snes or Genesis games when I was a kid. This video was so wholesome, especially the successful celebrations. If one day I manage to fix my parents old Polycon 4003, it will be thanks to you Vince.
Cheers from Belgium !
Ps: of course I didn't actually mean the special tip that would bring some humidity and so, corrosion to the contact pins.
Haha, thank you :-)
Hi vince I’m in the south east of the uk and I’ve been watching your videos for a few years now and I thoroughly enjoy watching you
I am 47 years old and I can’t stand to throw stuff away I always try to repair what I can
I’m a welding engineer and tool maker by trade so I try my hand at anything other than gas works
Anything els goes lol
You have come such a long way I just wish I had the balls to do what you do
Keep up the good work
Thank you! :-)
I assume the flux made it harder for that solder to create a bridge?
Bridging the break with solder looks better than a million wires everywhere.
You're remembering playing micro machines on multiplayer. The person who fell behind lost because they can't control their car once they're no longer displayed on screen. On single player though, it didn't matter, so it's just a regular race instead.
If the board flexes at all the solder will break and you'll get opens. Use a tiny non-insulated wire about 3mm or .125 inch to bridge gaps and use flux.
I honestly think you could have fixed it without the wire for the Micro Machines cart. What did you end up doing about the bulging shell tho, due to where it contacts the added solder?
It still fitted into the Mega Drive even with the bulge, the 2 screws helped pull the shell together so it was only bulging a couple of millimetres or so :-)
A big reason to not use solder for bridging is that the point behind solder is to create an intermetallic compound (IMC), the layer between the PCB pad and the component lead. The formulation of a solder alloy serves to form the best possible IMC (no Kirkendall voiding, and resistance to stress and electromigration). When used as a low melting point 'wire', it tends to be far more fragile and weak than a bit of copper wire, with worse properties in general. In the case of leaded solder (63/37 or non-eutectic 60/40), imagine why you'd not want to use lead for wires, let alone tin.
Thanks Maya :-)
Can you fast forward like you used to instead of the jump cut?
The first one is why you never use brasso on games. Sure you get the contacts shiny and happy, but of you don't have the game apart to clean it, you leave the stuff sitting sandwiched against the board, and brasso is very corrosive.
Really love all of your trying to fix video. You inspire me 😊
Vince saving retro games can’t wait for part 2
Great video vince glad you got 2/2 fixed lol keep up with the lucky fixes 👍💪
You're too good my dude. Nice repair work and diagnostics!!
Fun fact about micromachines 2.
The Violet character is Violet Berlin from Bad Influence!
Nice save on the Mickey cartridge - I would have sworn with a red hot chip it would have been fried. Guess they built them tough :)
I was very lucky on that one dash :-)
Solder needs proper temperature other wise you get a cold joint / dry joint that could cause intermittent faults, great video Well-done 👍😊
Thanks AR :-)
I guess the answer depends on if you’re doing that repair as a chargeable service or if it’s for yourself. If it’s for someone else you’d want to make sure it was a proper lasting repair. If it’s just for yourself then a quick bodge seems perfectly acceptable to me
Part 1 was succesfull. Looking forward for part 2.
Vince: Completed it
Remind you of anyone 🤔 #Inbetweeners 🤣
Haha. He has his own YT channel called that :-)
@@Mymatevince haha yeah he games on it I'm subbed lmao 🤣
🔧🧰⚙️
A wire is far a better job and about time, it just takes practice. I saw you struggle a lot even with the lower temp. Buy single core wire awg32
Regarding the solder mask, put the board in direct sun light and it will cure in like 1h
On the Mickey cartridge why would a previous owner have taken a working chip out and moved it along one? It had to be non-working to attempt a repair in the first place no matter they stuffed up replacing it? It just doesn't make any sense. Regardless excellent repair.
Great video mate! I always enjoy watching your vids, especially as a fellow uk resident! Lol if I ever find some old toy in my room or attic that’s not working I may send it your way. Btw could you tell me the name of the music at 10:00 please? It’s lovely! 😊
Hi vince for me the idea is good but instead of use lead solder try with unlead its more elastic or use some conductive paint its work very well and apply solder mask on it the pcb fit much better with this in the cartridge
Great video Vince I love watching your videos I’m learning a lot from you
Looking forward to part 2
Thanks Adrian :-)
21:09 Hah, I never knew Sinead O'Connor was in micro machines. Because Cartridge Repairs....Cartridge Repairs....To Yoooooou..
u wot?
It's not Sinead O'Connor, it's Violet, from the 90's computer game show Bad Influence.
The best part always is when VInce is celebrating a successful fix. Its like watching a soccer game and your team is scoaring a goal. 😎
that rainbow like screen and buzzing on caslte of illusion was the cartridge attempting to fry itself, im extremely suprised you got it working again after cuz that usually toasts them into never working again
You inspired me to get back into repairing, tho I'm more on the software side of things. Just bought some working and non working parts:)
I love the Sega mega drive videos they're great i'm happy you got two of them working after a lot of hard work.
Can’t wait for part 2 enjoyed the video buddy👍
M. Mouse: Castle of Illusions was a good game. Did you ever play Kid Chameleon? There were 100 or so levels on that one, and you picked up different helmets to change your character and special abilities. There was also a cool warp trick built into the end of the first level (it was a hidden cheat) to transport you to the final boss. The boss had about 30 eyes, and you had to jump onto his head to pop out all of his eyes. That game had TONS of replayability. I probably rented it 4 times before I finally bought it.
Cracking game castle of illusion is on the megadrive completed it again just the other day on the raspberry pi, believe the micro machines cartridges were called 'j carts' as they had joystick ports, great video
What you may find better to bridge the gap where there is no more copper is stained glass copper tape. It is adhesive on one side and copper on the other and you can use it with soldering (as you would for stained glass). You could cut it thinner as needed. It would seem to me that placing tape and soldering would be far easier than bridging the gap. I can link one if you prefer but an search for “stained glass foiling tape” on Amazon or something similar should get you what you’re looking for. I’ve never used it for this application but I can’t see why it wouldn’t work. The cost of entry is certainly low enough to give it a go. Hope it helps. Cheers.
Thanks Andrew, I do have some copper tape (slug tape). It is probably the same stuff just a different name. Cheers for the helpful message :-)
Hi Vince, I'm just wondering if you've considered (or would consider) obtaining a small light table/light box (used for viewing slides) and placing the cartridge board on the surface to visually inspect the traces? Yes, obviously you can (and do) check individual traces with your multi-meter, a light table/light box is useful for a quick visual trace inspection (the light shines through the board, making broken traces more visible)
Thanks Dave, my son already has one for tracing drawings. I could give it a go and see what it is like. Hopefully I will remember this next time. Thank you :-)
that 6-1 catridge came with the sega when i had mine as a child.. shame u got 2 the same games there lol.......but that 6-1 had 2 verison a yellow label and red
Using solder as a trace is a perfectly acceptable practice for large current-carrying traces.
Why don't u use electrically conductive paint
You really made my day! The moments of truth, the suspence.. 2 times, wel done. I have a good laugh everytime it works, it's like drum roll............ YES! keep up the good work!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Could you please do some repair work for me? I have a few Mega Drive games that play fine, but the odd sound effect is missing here and there. I have a copy of Mega Games 2 on which half the beats on the Game Select music are missing if you reset from Golden Axe. I’ve played these games on many different systems.
Thanks Vince really enjoyed the video, thanks My Mate Mike
Thanks Jason, glad you liked it and thank you for recognising My Mate Mike :-)
Just imagine if you had used a high silver or gold conductive paint you would have done them traces in a tenth of the time :) I use a high gold paint which sets hard and I use it to repaint corroded traces on my Soviet quartz watch circuit boards using a fine dagger brush I draw it across from known good point to known good point then put something like clear mask on to lock it in. Got the stuff off ebay and its been an absolute spot on fix that is permanent and doesn't require potentially destructive heat on tiny components like on ISA or ETA circuit boards. You can buy high gold and silver content epoxy's and glues which are used to affix the tiny gold wires from quartz motors to the circuit board and is thicker and sets rock hard but is super conductive. Back in the day of early overclocking, we used car rear window demister repair paint to unlock AMD cpu's by carefully linking certain points on the topmost die to bypass the multiplier lock, you could do it equally as well by fine copper strands looped around pins if you didn't want to permanently damage your very expensive CPU.
Cheers Ian, you got any brand names or recommendations for the stuff you got on eBay? Thanks mate :-)
Well there is flux inside soldering wire, i don't even use flux with it. Yes it is ok to lower the temp as long as you can melt ot and connect 2 joints but i would put 0.02mm wires to all of the broken traces. There is a lot of corrosion on that first one, even under the ICs. Do not cut the strand before you tin it and solder it, it will be waaay easier to hold the whole wire and solder end of the strand to one side of trace then pull and solder to other side of the trace connection. On the second board, you should desolder the whole IC, clean and check the board then solder it cleanly, because heating the whole DIL40 package to 350C and pushing it to click while hot is very bad thing for chip. Buy a Automatic Desoldering gun. it wil make your live easier.
Thanks again for sharing your very helpful tips on here technixbul :-)
Micro Machines!! In what other game can you play as Sinead O'Conner??
I'm by no means an expert but i think just jumping the gaps with solder wouldn't last as long as wire. The plastic case digs in to the solder as you showed so this could cause the small gap to crack over time.
@Ellis The DJ yeah i though about this after commenting. Maybe shaving the casing a little so it doesn't rub as much
Congratulations Vince. 👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks CLC :-)
@@Mymatevince Anytime 😊
Love the videos Vince. Yes the solder bridges are not a viable repair (low temp to get to bridge=cold solder joint that will crack), but they are a viable trouble shooting technique to insure it is worth the bother to do the repair correctly, in this case to insure the cartridge chips are not also faulty.
Thank you :-) I understand, that makes complete sense. Thanks for sharing it :-)
What's stronger? A blob of metal or a bit of rubber coated copper? I go with the solder. We adhere joints all the time and they stick but a wire right in line with that harsh plastic - something tells me the wire won't last without a lot of protection. In my repairs I'd do a little blob. I think you can do an even better job with adherence by using some coated copper wires to have a bridge to the gaps in the traces
Tinker Racers is the modern equivalent of Micro Machines in resolutions up to 4K.
I always clap along with the MMV Massive segment lol
I got as excited if not more then you when you got those fixed! : )
Did you ever fix earthworm jim? My copies gone south and no idea why, boots to splash screen then freezes 😔
I didn't Matthew. I looked at it again off camera and proved the fault onto the top ROM chip. The resistor trick didn't fix that one though so it remains broken.
Another great video Vince.
If you use that solder mask a lot I recommend getting a curing box with powerful UV lamps in it.
Flicky was the bird who made further appearances in Sonic the hedgehog games - sonic rescued him and his mates by destroying the badniks that they were hidden in by dr robotnik/eggman. I love the Micro Machines games on megadrive as I always played them when I was in my teens.
Nice one Danny :-)
This has brough back so many memories. I spent many house playing this on the Mega Drive :D
I have a feeling the solder bridges will easily break over time, especially with use where as a wire would be more robust.
Great video. My favorite console. Eagerly waiting for part 2. Greetings from Argentina, sad day for football fans. RIP #10
Rip goat
there are pens with nichole or silver that you can use to "draw" the tracers and connect them.
MG Chemicals 841AR-P Nickel Conductive Pen, 7.5g
MG Chemicals 838AR-P Total Ground Carbon Conductive Pen, 4g, Carbon Black
MG Chemicals 841AR-15ML Nickel Print (Conductive Paint)
It amazes me how many problems there are with official cartridges, as opposed to cheap pirate ones, which are also 30 years old, but they always work perfectly.
To be honest I don't think it's a bad job. I'm only concerned about the fragility as I think traces or routed wires would be more flexible as well as thinner, with the thicker and stiffer solder I can imagine cracks forming in the bridges as the plastic in the cartridge rubs against them.
On the mickey cartridge... why is there a resistor where it says C2????
Hi, apparently it is a capacitor. I have been told previously that sometimes capacitors can have coloured bands on them, and look like resistors but are capacitors. I think there were messages about it when I did the Paperboy Mega Drive Game video from a couple of years back :-)
Cool restorasion top😊
Nice bit of work but I would always recommend this use a fine copper wire or tracer wire and then that is designed to to be heated up to high temperature but what you're working on it needs a low temperature and I would also put a very streamly fine-tip and put flux where you are soldering
fair play vince . great fix and video
Can I ask where you get your leaded solder from pls? I'm running out and struggling to get any
love it, takes me bk to the old days lol
in my eyes dude... "it aint a bodge, if it works" :D
There is more than 1 tool for a job...
We need more people like vince
Vince you're my mate so I gotta ask you why didnt you use flux when you soldered those pins? It would've made it flow across all them nice and clean
Hey Chris, I think flux would have made the solder stick to the traces more and just form a ball of solder on each side of the break. I wanted the solder to jump over the gap so I didn't want it to flow as well as it does when using flux :-)
@@Mymatevince Ah I see! You would know better than me Vince as im somewhat new to soldering. But now that you say it it makes sense. 🍻 bud
Hi, I believe that you can repair it better with a "Conductive Pen", and tracks can be more thinner than solder. Good works at all!. Greetings from Spain.
Thank you :-)
Oh wow, almost no continuity.. how did that happen?