Great stuff Steve, excellent fault finding here. I'd have to say though it might be a good idea to take care of the rest of the rusted vias because they're going to eventually eat away at that copper. Still a great enjoyable video either way 🥰
@@boneyass what's weird is that during rhe first sonic 1 demonstration you did it only sounded like the square waves themselves (the thing sonic:s jump sound is made out of) were dead, but the noise channel was alright (what makes the crash portion of the monitor sound x as well as the waterfall doing waterfall things
PSG stands for Programmable Sound Generator, and it's integrated into the VDP as you discovered. That PSG sound is in fact the sound source for the 8-bit stuff.
I just dicovered your channel. I like your calm style. I don't like it when people are screaming during their videos or talk too fast. I am also into console restoration so I like to watch other people fixing or restoring their consoles. Good work! Will watch your other videos.
Thanks Simon! Yeah, I was a bit impatient taking stuff off willy nilly, but that has worked for me in the past. In hindsight, I should have tried it the other way round! 😁
Makes all the difference when you have all of the relevant schematics, diagrams and parts lists, this is becoming more and more rare with newer products.
Yeah... It's because they don't want you to be able to fix your product when it malfunctions; they want you to throw it away and spend money to buy a new one. Especially nowadays when some electronic components are super tiny and very difficult to work on with hand tools.
That was super involved Steve, well done. I admit I was worried when you were contemplating taking off that huge asic chip. Pity there isn’t a chemical you can brush on to convert the corrosion back to good copper again. Keep up the great work 👍😀
Love the content, Steve! I don’t know why, but I watch your videos and think how fun it would be to have you as a neighbor. Your sarcastic humor relates all too well with me. Keep up the great content. I’ve been going back and watching your previous episodes.
There is something 'enchanting' about your videos that keeps me coming back. Great fix this time around showing real determination using readily available information and common sense. Your cover it bodge for exposed wires on the other hand made me cringe. Heat shrink is not always the answer........🤣
Just stumbled across this channel randomly and definitely enjoyed the process of identifying the problem and troubleshooting various fixes. A fun journey was had getting to experience it work after the repair. Will be back for more :)
that must feel so satisfying when you fix stuff like that. just found out about your channel and already loving the content. thanks a lot for sharing with us.
In the business we call not knowing but having a good idea an educated guess. Not knowing what you're working on. But having an extensive enough knowledge to make a pretty good guess as to what it is
Only just started to watch your videos and so far im very impressed (not that it takes a lot to do so) lol... also i like the way you are very comical with each repair video it brings something new to the game of repairing... keep up the good work and enjoy my sub
When I fixed an AC adapter like that recently I took apart the brick, moved the strain relief down, chopped off the damaged parts, and resoldered. It can be difficult to break the strain relief free of the cable but it’s usually possible. Even when it’s not you can often use another or make your own with heat shrink. Since you’ve already chopped it at the brick you shouldn’t have to chop up the other end for heat shrink. The result should be much cleaner and more reliable.
By the time the Mega Drive 2 came along pretty much everything had been integrated into the 315-5487/315-5660 ASIC, but even as far back as the first revision of the MD1, the SN76489 PSG was already integrated with the VDP on the 315-5313. The mono signal from that, along with left/right from the FM, A left/right line from the cart slot (used by the 32X), and a left/right from the Expansion slot (for the Mega CD) is then all mixed in on that amp circuit. 99% of sound problems are often down to the caps going bad on that circuit. Either dying or leaking and corroding the traces.
Nice one Steve! :) The only thing I'm missing is some Voultar reference when you look at that modwork. When restoring VIAs, I usually push a wire through the hole and solder it in from both sides. You need to have a very thin needle (or a very thin tweezer) to clean the hole though.
Standing on the sideline as a newbie in smd, I can recommend to trust your eyes more often. Visual inspection is frequently underrated, and it is'nt gonna cause any damage at all :-). Great magnification, I am tempted to no longer fear smd soldering!
Brilliant! Lovely to see you wander off into a rabbit hole when you were in the right area right away 🤣 Of course, I've NEVER done EXACTLY that. Not often... Always a pleasure watching you work Steve 😁
🤣 I know, I literally found the problem about a minute after opening it up, but then proceeded to mess about with everything else first! Still, it's nice to be able to prove the fault by running back from the ASIC! That's what I'm telling myself anyway! 🤣
Awesome work dude. Just shows you should always keep trying even if you think you've exhausted all avenues of repair. Only found your channel lately and have binge watched quite a few by now :)
Great work as usual Steve the first thing I thought when I saw that corrosion was that looks like a drop of sweat by the modder. Keep up the videos you are doing great funny as f and insightful.
I've just started watching the video and... Yes the megadrive has two soundchips The YM2612, an FM Synth wich is responsible for the "16 bit sound" And the SN76489, a PSG (Wich stands for Procedural Sound Generator) used for Master System backward compatibility that can be used alongside the YM2612 in megadrive games
I have zero idea why your videos were suggested to me by the TH-cam algorithm as I can't say I have any interest in fixing things like this (my hands wouldn't let me anyway as badly damaged nerves). Yet here I am on video number 20+ utterly fascinated and loving the humour 🤣🤣 I did subscribe on video 2 I believe 😁
New subscriber here Steve, very enjoyable video, just watching your back catalogue. Long time fan of Vince and Tronics fix as well as Northridge. I love the fact the camera is on you nearly as much as your fix, lol. I do prefer Vince's longer videos but great work anyhow and keep posting. Cheers.
I felt like screaming for the first 13 mins as I've had the same recent experience on a Mega Drive 1 and was certain it'd be a corroded trace to/from the ASIC! In my case the issue was no sampled DAC sound effects due to a broken trace to the Z80 chip. Still, great result and very impressive skills to swap the SMD components! BTW, PSW = Programmable Sound Generator
Another good one, Steve! I gotta say I really enjoy your content, I think I watched all of your videos in a few days when I stumbled upon your channel, keep up the good work 🙂
Oh wow that mod looked awful. Who uses TAPE!?? Great fix steve so glad I found this channel just before the 100k makes me feel better not knowing components, or understanding enough about electronics to really pin down an issue but figure out a solution to get it working again. You're an inspiration to us hobbyists
Nicely done. Problems like these will happen again on this board though. Leaving the corrosion that's on other traces will mean it will keep spreading. Much of it is under the solder mask, so cleaning efforts will not have done much if the mask was not scraped away and the copper cleaned.
Amazing video Steve, as always well done. I suggest you remove that ugly not working region mod and put a proper one in there. I suggest the Switchless Region/IGR 50/60Hz mod from Consoles Unleashed. 👍🏻
and skidding, and waterfall sounds, etc. the PSG is also used for arpeggios, chords and layers in the Green Hill Zone theme, and the hi-hats of the drum beat on its noise channel. and while it only does those "secondary" sound duties in Mega Drive games, it does the entire sound in Master System games.
Great finding. Good job keep it up...i had stuck just like that in snes in video signal problem. Picture were running in curve form. But i could not repair the console.
First video of yours I've seen, good fault finding. Gives me hope that I can improve :) Subscribed 👍 p.s. I think PSG stands for Programmable Sound Generator
Another great one Steve! I`ll have a talk with the leaders of TH-cam about the shame that you have less than 7k followers:-) Steve rocketing would be great, and so deserved!
One of your best yet. . . .Sherlock? 🔎Very enjoyable. Dang, I don't normally subscribe to . . . anybody but you got me in. Love your work. Logic rules mate!
Nice repair, perfect demonstration of the Mega Drive's two sound chips/cores haha. And the Mega CD and 32X can access them as well so it can get a bit silly. For example, Popful Mail uses the Mega Drive's Yamaha FM + TI PSG as well as the Mega CD's Ricoh PCM for some of its music (3 sound chips together - once you get past the CD Audio title screen, of course) and Knuckles' Chaotix uses the Mega Drive's Yamaha FM + TI PSG as well as the 32X's Hitachi PWM for its music (also 3 sound chips together) :P Being a Mega Drive 2 VA0, the sound quality could be improved by installing a Mega Amp - I think you might have been in the stream New Retro Repair did of him installing my Mega Amp in my Mega Drive 2 VA1 :)
@@StezStixFix welcome :) there's also the Triple Bypass, but that's more for if the console also has a video encoder with the jailbar issue on RGB, like one of the Sony ones (not sure what the Samsung is like). I chose the Mega Amp because my MD2 VA1 has the Fujitsu MB3514 video encoder which looks fine on RGB.
Nice fix Steve, I think I might have taken the wire from the capacitor pad which you used and ran it over to the other via where it went through the board omitting the corroded section all together just in case, but either way its all good :) well done on another successful fix.
I have a repair and resell shop on eBay and I’m always afraid to do any micro soldering, or major board repairs. I have to admit watching your videos give me a little bit of confidence for some reason. I really would like to see how you would fix damaged ribbon cables. And I really wish u had some sort of vaccum or air purifier to suck up those fumes, if I remember correctly they can be really toxic and bad for your health to inhale that.
Thanks MicMaine! I do have an little extractor, and use it most of the time... you're right the fumes are not nice to inhale! Good luck with the eBay shop! 👍
Yeah well depends on if you solder once a week, then hazard is minimal, or 8 hours a day, when even standard extraction isn't quite enough. Which part of the world are you at? I wouldn't mind partnering with a vendor in EU to do the repairs for them.
Steve you done an awesome job and great video, may I ask @6:36 you used your little brush to clean the board, what is this brush called and do you have a link please as I would love to get one. Many thanks
Thanks Martin! It's actually a flux brush that I've cut down the bristles to make a bit more abrasive. I bought a little pack of them, these ones: amzn.to/391kndu
@@StezStixFix Thank you so much for replying, I definitely need one as following the SVS guides (Steve TF, Vince MMV, Steve SSF) I have managed to pick up some cheap broken consoles (Ones S & One X) and managed to get them both working. Over the moon even tho i dont have a microscope yet YET! it was a challenge, would love to send you pictures somehow. Now checking out the brushes thank you again
As we all know, PSG totally stands for « Paris Saint-Germain » (and obviously not Programmable Sound Generator). True story. Now, I’ve never really listened to Incubus but seems like I should give it a try. As usual, merci Monsieur !
psg is the dust sound frequency there are 2 separated chips one for music and another for sound effects 8bit fm for sound effects and master system fm sound
I've just stumbled upon your channel mate. Awesome videos. You got a like and sub from me. Just love watching the retro tech repair vids. Keep up the great work 👍
Great analysis to find the cause of the problem. Just one thing: You paint over areas that still show corrosion. Not that there is still something of the acid in it and spreads further under the paint. In addition, all electrolytic capacitors should definitely be replaced in such a case. So you don't have to start over and over again.
YES! Those caps were bad! ESR to high for its value, should be in 0.xx range Not! 1.xx so brother Steve! you was correct! to replace them 🖖👍🏻 Dirty little VIA casing a silence in the 8-bit matrix, making a small detour to allow electrical connection between the layers 🎶 returns to the 👂
Aha! Thanks brother Steve. I should probably re-cap the whole board then I think! Yeah, this one was really interesting to me, I didn't even realise that there were 8 bit and 16 bit sounds in the Mega Drive! You learn something new every day! 😁
Yeah you should & clean that Mod up too! Yes it has both; Instruction set: 8‑bit and 16‑bit instructions. the CPU of the Sega Mega Drive was technically a 32-bit CPU, even though it communicated through a bus which was only 16bit wide. Some of the instructions are 8-bit long (called 'byte'), others are 16-bit long (called 'word') and the rest are 32-bit long (called 'long-word'). There is a few differences between the models 1 & 2 plus master system options. There is a Lot! to learn brother Steve! 🤓
So firstly, the 8-bit Master System has a Z80 CPU @ 3.58MHz, 8KB of RAM and 16KB of VRAM, and a VDP (Video Display Processor aka graphics chip) with native Master System modes as well as a backwards compatibility mode for SG-1000 games (albeit with wrong colour shades). The VDP is an ASIC that also incorporates an SN76496 Programmable Sound Generator (PSG), also backwards compatible with the SG-1000's SN76489 and which gets its 3.58MHz clock signal from that generated for the Z80 CPU. When Sega designed the 16-bit Mega Drive, they added a Motorola 68000 CPU @7.6MHz and 64KB of RAM, as well as a Yamaha YM2612 OPN2 FM synthesis-based sound chip which gets its 7.6MHz clock signal from that generated for the Motorola 68000 CPU (sound familar?), but the 8-bit Master System (Z80 CPU, 8KB RAM, PSG and 3.58MHz clock signal) mostly remains inside the 16-bit Mega Drive. For the Mega Drive graphics they simply took the Master System VDP and replaced the SG-1000 graphics mode with a native Mega Drive graphics mode and increased the VRAM to 64KB. In fact if you load an SG-1000 game from an Everdrive on a Mega Drive, it will run but "play blind" (working sound and controls but a black screen). So as you found out, the Mega Drive having hardware backwards compatibility with the Master System isn't just for being able to play Master System games on a Mega Drive (either with the official cartridge converter or loaded from an Everdrive as you did) - Mega Drive games use the Z80 as a co-processor (usually for the sound driver on games that don't run that on the 68000) and with both sound chips being memory-mapped to both CPUs, it only took until 1989 for a developer to realise that they could be used together, and played nicely together at that! By then, 4-operator (rather than 2-operator in 1988) instruments and drum (rather than just voice in 1988) audio sample playback on the YM2612 had also been figured out, so by 1991 and UK/Europe availability and Sonic, the 2-chip sound/music was standard procedures :) With this being a Mega Drive 2 VA0, it has the (YM3438) and PSG sound cores both in the ASIC, whereas most Mega Drive 1s (from VA0 Japan, VA2 Genesis and VA4 PAL to VA6.8), and some later Mega Drive 2s after VA2.x, have a physical YM2612 chip, with the PSG being the only sound core in the ASIC. Too bad the Mega Drive 1 VA7 and Mega Drive 2 VA0, VA1 and VA1.8 all have bad sound mixing/amplification circuits and require a Mega Amp mod for decent sound quality.
Instead of futzing with sawing down the barrel plug end of the cable, check out self-amalgamating tape. Stretch and stick it onto itself as you wrap around whatever and it creates an excellent seal. The run-of-the-mill flavor is not super durable, as it can still be torn more easily than some tapes or heatshrinks, but much easier to apply in a variety of situations. Fancier versions exist that improve on the material weaknesses.
I enjoy your work and must say you have talent . Just a question if I may ? What is the green sealer you use after making your pcb repairs ? Does it harden or stay flexible ? Thanks , Rick from Ky .
Another lovely video, hope you will make a video on how to make all those magic tricks you do 😊 and send my best to voice-over Steve hope you let him know that you appreciate him
Great job! Glad, that good old piece of hardware is working again! May I ask a question? I saw people use vinegar on electrolytics. Why do you not do that?
Thanks Christian, I did use some on a Game Boy I looked at recently. It does help to get rid of the corrosion. I probably should have used it here too! 👍
6:48 is the fault, its the pcb through hole. The one near C19, you can see the black of the pcb is showing were it connects to the trace. Not easy looking to spot but all that corrosion needs removed. Been looking at lots of repair videos. There are eyelets to repair the pcb through hole (Plated Through Hole Repair Kit). You can also epoxy a new trace and attach it with solder. Just a wire works but you don't know how far the rust/corrosion goes into the through-hole barrel. A wire is a quick and dirty repair. TH-cam PCB Eyelet Repair | BEST, Inc. if you are interested and How To Repair Damaged / Missing PCB Pads || 4 Great Methods. Remember you can glue the new trace in place and then solder. These are the true fixes. If all you have is a wire like this video, How To Repair Damaged / Broken PCB Traces - 2 Great Methods. Everything I have read states all the corrosion needs to be removed. The copper trace can be removed and replaced with clean copper. This restores the trace to new. Got to love what you learn from others on youtube.
Great stuff Steve, excellent fault finding here. I'd have to say though it might be a good idea to take care of the rest of the rusted vias because they're going to eventually eat away at that copper. Still a great enjoyable video either way 🥰
Thanks Phil, yeah I think I'm gonna recap everything and do a bit more work on it off camera. 👍
🤦
@@boneyass what's weird is that during rhe first sonic 1 demonstration you did it only sounded like the square waves themselves (the thing sonic:s jump sound is made out of) were dead, but the noise channel was alright (what makes the crash portion of the monitor sound x as well as the waterfall doing waterfall things
PSG stands for Programmable Sound Generator, and it's integrated into the VDP as you discovered. That PSG sound is in fact the sound source for the 8-bit stuff.
Its all inherited from the Master System
A man who won't take no for an answer and figures it out. Well done on getting this back up and going.
Thanks Angus! It was very satisfying to get this one working properly! 👍
I just dicovered your channel. I like your calm style. I don't like it when people are screaming during their videos or talk too fast. I am also into console restoration so I like to watch other people fixing or restoring their consoles. Good work! Will watch your other videos.
Thanks Oribaa, much appreciated 👍
Hi mate - I’ve only recently got into restorations. Do you have any other suggested channels / resources?
"What ever tomorrow brings it will be a great fix....sing along! ". Steve well done.
I stumbled across this channel by pure chance, thanks YT, but I'm already in love with the way you present your findings and the way you work.
Great video showing two different approaches to fixing. First keep changing stuff, second trace the path from source to output.
Thanks Simon! Yeah, I was a bit impatient taking stuff off willy nilly, but that has worked for me in the past. In hindsight, I should have tried it the other way round! 😁
I've barely blinked in the general direction of computer chips in my life. But this is fascinating.
Fantastic work Steve! This was a very enjoyable one for me. Interesting mod too, I had no idea, now I have something to figure out with my mega drive.
Thanks Tidder! Yeah, this was a new one on me. Really enjoyed looking at it and super satisfying! 👍
It is actually a really simple mod to do. Especially with mk1 boards
Makes all the difference when you have all of the relevant schematics, diagrams and parts lists, this is becoming more and more rare with newer products.
Yeah... It's because they don't want you to be able to fix your product when it malfunctions; they want you to throw it away and spend money to buy a new one. Especially nowadays when some electronic components are super tiny and very difficult to work on with hand tools.
That was super involved Steve, well done. I admit I was worried when you were contemplating taking off that huge asic chip. Pity there isn’t a chemical you can brush on to convert the corrosion back to good copper again. Keep up the great work 👍😀
Thanks Chris! 👍
Love the content, Steve! I don’t know why, but I watch your videos and think how fun it would be to have you as a neighbor. Your sarcastic humor relates all too well with me. Keep up the great content. I’ve been going back and watching your previous episodes.
Whoever edits your videos did a superb job on this one. Give them a raise.
There is something 'enchanting' about your videos that keeps me coming back. Great fix this time around showing real determination using readily available information and common sense. Your cover it bodge for exposed wires on the other hand made me cringe. Heat shrink is not always the answer........🤣
Just stumbled across this channel randomly and definitely enjoyed the process of identifying the problem and troubleshooting various fixes. A fun journey was had getting to experience it work after the repair. Will be back for more :)
Thanks Josh, much appreciated! 👍
Man i found your channel by accident and now i have made a playlist with all your videos for a marathon .Nice channel.
Thanks J.a.W! Much appreciated! 👍
that must feel so satisfying when you fix stuff like that. just found out about your channel and already loving the content. thanks a lot for sharing with us.
In the business we call not knowing but having a good idea an educated guess. Not knowing what you're working on. But having an extensive enough knowledge to make a pretty good guess as to what it is
Only just started to watch your videos and so far im very impressed (not that it takes a lot to do so) lol... also i like the way you are very comical with each repair video it brings something new to the game of repairing... keep up the good work and enjoy my sub
Thanks Frosty, much appreciated 👍
When I fixed an AC adapter like that recently I took apart the brick, moved the strain relief down, chopped off the damaged parts, and resoldered. It can be difficult to break the strain relief free of the cable but it’s usually possible. Even when it’s not you can often use another or make your own with heat shrink. Since you’ve already chopped it at the brick you shouldn’t have to chop up the other end for heat shrink. The result should be much cleaner and more reliable.
Yes I'm all for removing any heavily kinked wire sections as well, they can't be healthy.
By the time the Mega Drive 2 came along pretty much everything had been integrated into the 315-5487/315-5660 ASIC, but even as far back as the first revision of the MD1, the SN76489 PSG was already integrated with the VDP on the 315-5313.
The mono signal from that, along with left/right from the FM, A left/right line from the cart slot (used by the 32X), and a left/right from the Expansion slot (for the Mega CD) is then all mixed in on that amp circuit.
99% of sound problems are often down to the caps going bad on that circuit. Either dying or leaking and corroding the traces.
I agree.
Love it! Great work. I learn so much watching you fix stuff.
Nice one Steve! :)
The only thing I'm missing is some Voultar reference when you look at that modwork.
When restoring VIAs, I usually push a wire through the hole and solder it in from both sides. You need to have a very thin needle (or a very thin tweezer) to clean the hole though.
Yes, a through-hole capacitor leg is good for this. Also good to clean up any corrosion in the surrounding area as well.
Thanks Norrecito! 👍
Standing on the sideline as a newbie in smd, I can recommend to trust your eyes more often. Visual inspection is frequently underrated, and it is'nt gonna cause any damage at all :-).
Great magnification, I am tempted to no longer fear smd soldering!
Thanks Umberto, you're absolutely correct!
I really love watching your videos... you are doing a fantastic job fixing these things. Keep it up my friend.
Thanks Oz! 🤩
Awesome work. so glad i found this channel. love what you do.
Brilliant!
Lovely to see you wander off into a rabbit hole when you were in the right area right away 🤣
Of course, I've NEVER done EXACTLY that. Not often...
Always a pleasure watching you work Steve 😁
🤣 I know, I literally found the problem about a minute after opening it up, but then proceeded to mess about with everything else first! Still, it's nice to be able to prove the fault by running back from the ASIC! That's what I'm telling myself anyway! 🤣
Very interesting fault Steve, nice fault finding 👍 Great job!
Thanks Vince! 😍
u 2 actors should be in hollywood . really bad acting to extend video lenth and set up faults
Awesome work dude. Just shows you should always keep trying even if you think you've exhausted all avenues of repair. Only found your channel lately and have binge watched quite a few by now :)
Thanks Jay! Much appreciated 👍
@@StezStixFix You're welcome dude. I need to get me one of those hot air stations, any hints on brand etc? Super handy for removing components.
Great work as usual Steve the first thing I thought when I saw that corrosion was that looks like a drop of sweat by the modder. Keep up the videos you are doing great funny as f and insightful.
Thanks N J! 👍
I've just started watching the video and... Yes the megadrive has two soundchips
The YM2612, an FM Synth wich is responsible for the "16 bit sound"
And the SN76489, a PSG (Wich stands for Procedural Sound Generator) used for Master System backward compatibility that can be used alongside the YM2612 in megadrive games
I have zero idea why your videos were suggested to me by the TH-cam algorithm as I can't say I have any interest in fixing things like this (my hands wouldn't let me anyway as badly damaged nerves). Yet here I am on video number 20+ utterly fascinated and loving the humour 🤣🤣 I did subscribe on video 2 I believe 😁
Great video, another victory of man over machine, take that SkyNet! I like the heat shrink tubing. It's pleasing both to say and what it does
At 2:22, just for a second or two, I thought that was the fix finished…..job well done and time for a well earned drink…..but the fun continues !!
When I say fun……I obviously don’t mean the singing, as per my previous comments on this matter good sir !
🤣🤣 I'll win you over eventually!
Love the investigation work Inspector Stez, these type of fixes are great. Must be proud and rightfully so. Great Video
Thanks Michael! 👍
Another tough fix to locate. Well done! No more jumping in silence!
Love your videos, so relaxing 😌
Nice! Love how you managed to figure this one out. You've gained a subscriber for sure!
Thanks MrVestek! Much appreciated 👍
Man I love your reactions when your fixes work!!!
I spent far too many hours during my first stint at college playing Sonic on my best-friend's (RIP) Genesis. Thank you for the memories.
Dude! I love watching you. Your funny and for someone who is learning electronics your pretty good at it.
Thanks Brian! Definitely still learning but really enjoying it so far! 😁
I cheered when that worked! Love your videos. Something very therapeutic about a Northern man fixing electronics.
New subscriber here Steve, very enjoyable video, just watching your back catalogue. Long time fan of Vince and Tronics fix as well as Northridge. I love the fact the camera is on you nearly as much as your fix, lol. I do prefer Vince's longer videos but great work anyhow and keep posting. Cheers.
Thanks Jonome! Appreciate that 👍
Steve, you are the man. Well done on that fix, sir :)
I felt like screaming for the first 13 mins as I've had the same recent experience on a Mega Drive 1 and was certain it'd be a corroded trace to/from the ASIC! In my case the issue was no sampled DAC sound effects due to a broken trace to the Z80 chip. Still, great result and very impressive skills to swap the SMD components!
BTW, PSW = Programmable Sound Generator
I was singing with you at the end there, Steve! Love that song.
I recently found your channel. I know nothing of this stuff but somehow I’m addicted to watching 😂
Ive found this channel far to late! Sweet video mate looking forward to more like this one!
Thank you! Much appreciated 👍
Another good one, Steve! I gotta say I really enjoy your content, I think I watched all of your videos in a few days when I stumbled upon your channel, keep up the good work 🙂
Thanks Usagi! 👍
This channel is the best youtube discover in years! Great content!
Thanks Dani! 👍
Oh wow that mod looked awful. Who uses TAPE!?? Great fix steve so glad I found this channel just before the 100k makes me feel better not knowing components, or understanding enough about electronics to really pin down an issue but figure out a solution to get it working again. You're an inspiration to us hobbyists
Congrats on the fix! I was routing for you watching this. Must be a great feeling fixing retro games/consoles up yourself. I wish I could do this!
>routing
Good fix don't know what learn enjoy watching the process
Nicely done. Problems like these will happen again on this board though. Leaving the corrosion that's on other traces will mean it will keep spreading. Much of it is under the solder mask, so cleaning efforts will not have done much if the mask was not scraped away and the copper cleaned.
Great fault finding, Steve! And great video, by the way. Nice!👍👍👍
Thanks Pedro! 👍
hi, just found your channel and I'm having a blast, your videos made me learn a bit about soldering and stuff, thanks man
Nice work again. Love the humour too. Keep it up!
Another good fix there Steve and a interesting one too well done 👍
Thanks Chris! 👍
Amazing video Steve, as always well done. I suggest you remove that ugly not working region mod and put a proper one in there. I suggest the Switchless Region/IGR 50/60Hz mod from Consoles Unleashed. 👍🏻
Thanks Eduart, I'll check that out 👍
All the effort just for the jumping sound … you are crazy … and I really enjoyed it 😊👍!
and skidding, and waterfall sounds, etc. the PSG is also used for arpeggios, chords and layers in the Green Hill Zone theme, and the hi-hats of the drum beat on its noise channel.
and while it only does those "secondary" sound duties in Mega Drive games, it does the entire sound in Master System games.
Great fix, keep up the good work.
Every time your fix something I get as excited as you do. Weird.
Far out mate - that was some heavy diagnosis time.. well done 👍
Hehe. Love the ‘laughing cow’ edition of the solder sucker station! - ‘nice’ :)
Great finding. Good job keep it up...i had stuck just like that in snes in video signal problem. Picture were running in curve form. But i could not repair the console.
First video of yours I've seen, good fault finding. Gives me hope that I can improve :) Subscribed 👍
p.s. I think PSG stands for Programmable Sound Generator
yes it does
Another great one Steve! I`ll have a talk with the leaders of TH-cam about the shame that you have less than 7k followers:-) Steve rocketing would be great, and so deserved!
Thanks Willy! If you could out in a good word, that would be great! 😁
Excellent work! God bless you and yours, praying for you!
Cracking repair Steve, nice to see the older consoles getting some TLC that they deserve n not being binned
nice fix steve i actually like the master system sonic
It's a great game. IMO its more fun that the MD version.
Loving the videos, keep up the good work!
One of your best yet. . . .Sherlock? 🔎Very enjoyable. Dang, I don't normally subscribe to . . . anybody but you got me in. Love your work. Logic rules mate!
I love it when traces do a "through the board jobby". Those traces are the best.
Nice repair, perfect demonstration of the Mega Drive's two sound chips/cores haha.
And the Mega CD and 32X can access them as well so it can get a bit silly. For example, Popful Mail uses the Mega Drive's Yamaha FM + TI PSG as well as the Mega CD's Ricoh PCM for some of its music (3 sound chips together - once you get past the CD Audio title screen, of course) and Knuckles' Chaotix uses the Mega Drive's Yamaha FM + TI PSG as well as the 32X's Hitachi PWM for its music (also 3 sound chips together) :P
Being a Mega Drive 2 VA0, the sound quality could be improved by installing a Mega Amp - I think you might have been in the stream New Retro Repair did of him installing my Mega Amp in my Mega Drive 2 VA1 :)
Thanks RWL! Appreciate the info. I'll take a look at those Mega Amps! 👍
@@StezStixFix welcome :) there's also the Triple Bypass, but that's more for if the console also has a video encoder with the jailbar issue on RGB, like one of the Sony ones (not sure what the Samsung is like). I chose the Mega Amp because my MD2 VA1 has the Fujitsu MB3514 video encoder which looks fine on RGB.
Great repair vidz! You got yourself another sub. Love the little video effects you put into some videos. Very neat indeed.
Love your videos. Its like you have no idea what your doing then the skillz come out.
Fantastic channel. Really enjoying your videos thus far
Nice fix Steve, I think I might have taken the wire from the capacitor pad which you used and ran it over to the other via where it went through the board omitting the corroded section all together just in case, but either way its all good :) well done on another successful fix.
I have a repair and resell shop on eBay and I’m always afraid to do any micro soldering, or major board repairs. I have to admit watching your videos give me a little bit of confidence for some reason. I really would like to see how you would fix damaged ribbon cables. And I really wish u had some sort of vaccum or air purifier to suck up those fumes, if I remember correctly they can be really toxic and bad for your health to inhale that.
Thanks MicMaine! I do have an little extractor, and use it most of the time... you're right the fumes are not nice to inhale! Good luck with the eBay shop! 👍
Yeah well depends on if you solder once a week, then hazard is minimal, or 8 hours a day, when even standard extraction isn't quite enough.
Which part of the world are you at? I wouldn't mind partnering with a vendor in EU to do the repairs for them.
Steve you done an awesome job and great video, may I ask @6:36 you used your little brush to clean the board, what is this brush called and do you have a link please as I would love to get one. Many thanks
Thanks Martin! It's actually a flux brush that I've cut down the bristles to make a bit more abrasive. I bought a little pack of them, these ones: amzn.to/391kndu
@@StezStixFix Thank you so much for replying, I definitely need one as following the SVS guides (Steve TF, Vince MMV, Steve SSF) I have managed to pick up some cheap broken consoles (Ones S & One X) and managed to get them both working. Over the moon even tho i dont have a microscope yet YET! it was a challenge, would love to send you pictures somehow. Now checking out the brushes thank you again
As we all know, PSG totally stands for « Paris Saint-Germain » (and obviously not Programmable Sound Generator). True story.
Now, I’ve never really listened to Incubus but seems like I should give it a try.
As usual, merci Monsieur !
Well done nice fix, it was interesting to watch👍
psg is the dust sound frequency there are 2 separated chips one for music and another for sound effects 8bit fm for sound effects and master system fm sound
I've just stumbled upon your channel mate. Awesome videos. You got a like and sub from me. Just love watching the retro tech repair vids. Keep up the great work 👍
Thanks Bizarre! Really appreciate that 👍
Great analysis to find the cause of the problem. Just one thing: You paint over areas that still show corrosion. Not that there is still something of the acid in it and spreads further under the paint. In addition, all electrolytic capacitors should definitely be replaced in such a case. So you don't have to start over and over again.
Great stuff marrer ;-) Way up there with Big Clive.
Good job on figuring that one out!
YES! Those caps were bad! ESR to high for its value, should be in 0.xx range Not! 1.xx so brother Steve! you was correct! to replace them 🖖👍🏻
Dirty little VIA casing a silence in the 8-bit matrix, making a small detour to allow electrical connection between the layers 🎶 returns to the 👂
Aha! Thanks brother Steve. I should probably re-cap the whole board then I think! Yeah, this one was really interesting to me, I didn't even realise that there were 8 bit and 16 bit sounds in the Mega Drive! You learn something new every day! 😁
Yeah you should & clean that Mod up too! Yes it has both; Instruction set: 8‑bit and 16‑bit instructions. the CPU of the Sega Mega Drive was technically a 32-bit CPU, even though it communicated through a bus which was only 16bit wide. Some of the instructions are 8-bit long (called 'byte'), others are 16-bit long (called 'word') and the rest are 32-bit long (called 'long-word'). There is a few differences between the models 1 & 2 plus master system options.
There is a Lot! to learn brother Steve! 🤓
So firstly, the 8-bit Master System has a Z80 CPU @ 3.58MHz, 8KB of RAM and 16KB of VRAM, and a VDP (Video Display Processor aka graphics chip) with native Master System modes as well as a backwards compatibility mode for SG-1000 games (albeit with wrong colour shades). The VDP is an ASIC that also incorporates an SN76496 Programmable Sound Generator (PSG), also backwards compatible with the SG-1000's SN76489 and which gets its 3.58MHz clock signal from that generated for the Z80 CPU.
When Sega designed the 16-bit Mega Drive, they added a Motorola 68000 CPU @7.6MHz and 64KB of RAM, as well as a Yamaha YM2612 OPN2 FM synthesis-based sound chip which gets its 7.6MHz clock signal from that generated for the Motorola 68000 CPU (sound familar?), but the 8-bit Master System (Z80 CPU, 8KB RAM, PSG and 3.58MHz clock signal) mostly remains inside the 16-bit Mega Drive.
For the Mega Drive graphics they simply took the Master System VDP and replaced the SG-1000 graphics mode with a native Mega Drive graphics mode and increased the VRAM to 64KB. In fact if you load an SG-1000 game from an Everdrive on a Mega Drive, it will run but "play blind" (working sound and controls but a black screen).
So as you found out, the Mega Drive having hardware backwards compatibility with the Master System isn't just for being able to play Master System games on a Mega Drive (either with the official cartridge converter or loaded from an Everdrive as you did) - Mega Drive games use the Z80 as a co-processor (usually for the sound driver on games that don't run that on the 68000) and with both sound chips being memory-mapped to both CPUs, it only took until 1989 for a developer to realise that they could be used together, and played nicely together at that! By then, 4-operator (rather than 2-operator in 1988) instruments and drum (rather than just voice in 1988) audio sample playback on the YM2612 had also been figured out, so by 1991 and UK/Europe availability and Sonic, the 2-chip sound/music was standard procedures :)
With this being a Mega Drive 2 VA0, it has the (YM3438) and PSG sound cores both in the ASIC, whereas most Mega Drive 1s (from VA0 Japan, VA2 Genesis and VA4 PAL to VA6.8), and some later Mega Drive 2s after VA2.x, have a physical YM2612 chip, with the PSG being the only sound core in the ASIC. Too bad the Mega Drive 1 VA7 and Mega Drive 2 VA0, VA1 and VA1.8 all have bad sound mixing/amplification circuits and require a Mega Amp mod for decent sound quality.
This video helps out a ton! My genesis has this exact issue. Found it when I played sonic as well lol
this channel is too chill to see
Omg that part that he looks up and says, this is fun, had me crackin😂😂😂😂
Instead of futzing with sawing down the barrel plug end of the cable, check out self-amalgamating tape. Stretch and stick it onto itself as you wrap around whatever and it creates an excellent seal. The run-of-the-mill flavor is not super durable, as it can still be torn more easily than some tapes or heatshrinks, but much easier to apply in a variety of situations. Fancier versions exist that improve on the material weaknesses.
You said you are not expert in repairs at all but you are a beast! I mean in a good way :)
I enjoy your work and must say you have talent . Just a question if I may ? What is the green sealer you use after making your pcb repairs ? Does it harden or stay flexible ? Thanks , Rick from Ky .
Thank you! It's called solder mask and it sets hard under UV light. I use this one: amzn.to/3LUxX0T
Sent here by the Cod3r. Great channel! Will check out more soon.
Awesome, thank you! 👍
Thanks for you guys doing the world a service. We all need more transparency. :-) Great to see the diy community grow.
Awesome work. I never even knew an everdrive was a thing. Now i need a mega drive and ever drive badly.
super glad i found this channel.
Another lovely video, hope you will make a video on how to make all those magic tricks you do 😊 and send my best to voice-over Steve hope you let him know that you appreciate him
🤣 I'll make sure he knows! 😁
I'm just amazed at the skill with which you fix all these consoles.
Will you do like a repair and giveaway for 10k subs?
Not a bad idea! Thanks for the suggestion 👍
Great job! Glad, that good old piece of hardware is working again! May I ask a question? I saw people use vinegar on electrolytics. Why do you not do that?
Thanks Christian, I did use some on a Game Boy I looked at recently. It does help to get rid of the corrosion. I probably should have used it here too! 👍
6:48 is the fault, its the pcb through hole. The one near C19, you can see the black of the pcb is showing were it connects to the trace. Not easy looking to spot but all that corrosion needs removed. Been looking at lots of repair videos. There are eyelets to repair the pcb through hole (Plated Through Hole Repair Kit). You can also epoxy a new trace and attach it with solder.
Just a wire works but you don't know how far the rust/corrosion goes into the through-hole barrel. A wire is a quick and dirty repair. TH-cam PCB Eyelet Repair | BEST, Inc. if you are interested and How To Repair Damaged / Missing PCB Pads || 4 Great Methods. Remember you can glue the new trace in place and then solder. These are the true fixes. If all you have is a wire like this video, How To Repair Damaged / Broken PCB Traces - 2 Great Methods.
Everything I have read states all the corrosion needs to be removed. The copper trace can be removed and replaced with clean copper. This restores the trace to new. Got to love what you learn from others on youtube.