Removing the Right tire makes it easier for fat fingers like mine to remove and replace the wires on the solenoid. For me the 5 min it took to jack up, jack stand and R&R the tire saves 30 minutes of cursing. Great vid. Thanks for taking the time to post!
Great, informative video. I'm doing this right now on my 1998 C1500 ext cab, and it has the same wiring harness connections. Thanks! I'm replacing like for like, and the old one had no shims on it to replace for the new one, yeah!
You made this look quite a bit easier than in some other videos. After watching the other videos I wasn’t too interested in doing this, but after watching your video I am confident. Thanks
Thanks for this video Dr. Shock. I have a 1995 Tahoe 2 wheel drive that I purchased back in 1994. It has just under 306,000 miles with what I believe is the original starter. I first noticed that it was laboring several weeks ago and today it clicked just like you had mentioned, then the under hood light went out while I was turning the ignition. I have been wondering when the starter was going to fail for the past several years and it finally did. Even though I'm mechanically inclined, I appreciate that you made this video. I was in dark territory before watching it.
Hey man I replace the starter I disconnect the battery and I'll put everything back on the only Power has is the hood light and the radio but no power on fuel pump & no creak no start
Yep, very likely. Only the original GM one had the shield, if someone didn't bother to transfer it to the replacement, even if a ACDelco, it would be gone and leave the solenoid exposed to the exhaust manifold on certain vehicles. Its not a big deal on many, but a K truck with the 5.7L it's definitely too close without a shield in place for a long life.
On this type of truck rather than drop it straight down, instead try to pull it up across the frame rail. You'll need to remove the plastic splash panel in the wheel well to get the access.
Awesome video, bought a 96 by blazer for super cheap because if that grinding metal noise when trying to start. Runs fine after started. Installed a new starter (old one went out soon I got it home. Long story shirt replaced started but still crazy grinding sound. Seems flywheel is rubbing the starting above where the starter gear pops out. No shims came out old starter. Any ideas?.
Either an tooth alignment problem due to needing a shim (can cause the solenoid not to be able to get the nose gear aligned with the flywheel), incorrect bolts (they have to be the OEM knurled type), or theres a defect with the flywheel itself (crack, missing teeth, bent).
They should be knurled with hashmarks above the threads, I show a view of this at 13:30 in the video. I also have the GM part number and link for them in the description. If the bolts are no longer actual starter motor mounting bolts, it's possible the shims were lost as well. If you check out the 1998 service manual here www.gmt400.com/threads/88-95-service-manuals.43575/ and within volume 2 follow the procedure at page 6-983 to shim the starter motor if needed. I'd also do the procedure at page 6-1011 to be sure.
I have a 1995 c1500 with the 4.3 liter v6. When I tried to start it, the trick made a really loud crank noise so im fairly sure it's the starter drive gear. My question is would it be safer just to by a new starter rather than a rebuilt one?
They usually go out, either the drive gear or the solenoid, from rear main seal or other such oil leaks. Motor oil deteriorates them pretty quickly. If yours looks like it's had a leak on it, I'd not bother trying to rebuild it and just buy a new or already rebuilt/remanufactured one. With the remanufactured ones you have to be careful on the brands, cheaper is not better there. I have had good luck with ACDelco remans though.
I have a 2000 GMC savanna van 5.7 hopefully same layout I know wires can be a hassle usually starts right up lately cple times starter dragged with new battery hopefully its starter any advice?
I jave a 93 k1500 5.7. Tbi and i have 3 cables going to my starter .one from battery and two other small ones i believe one goes to coil and other towards alternator harness .need help
The factory GM harness reconnection is shown at 15:41 and there are only two terminals (a 1998 late model type starter is illustrated). The largest size terminal is a direct battery connection (this part of the harness may also branch off to the alternator further up via a fusible link but there's just the one lug terminal to the starter stud) and ma be labeled _B_ on the starter solenoid stud end. The 2nd terminal shown in the video will also be the signal or sense wire from the ignition switch, usually labeled _S_ and purple in color. These two should be common with your 1993 layout as well according to the 1993 GM service manual, unless someone has modified the original GM wiring harness. Here's a link to where you can view the 1993 electrical service manual for your truck - www.gmt400.com/threads/88-95-service-manuals.43575/ Now I have seen older GM starters have a third stud to the ignition coil, sometimes labeled _R_ but I don't see that in the 93 service manual for your truck.
Replaced my starter with a brand new one and when I hook the battery up the starter starts turning. What causes this? Also only has two wire bolts so could not mix them up.
For the GM model year trucks and vans this video covers, if the previous starter behaved normally until it otherwise failed, prompting the replacement, then this kind of starter solenoid behavior is going to be in the wiring of the replacement starter. The starter going off on its own could be in the starter relay being stuck, a defective solenoid, or the ignition circuit. But those defects would have existed _prior_ to replacing the starter motor, not as a result of the swap itself (presuming you have a new starter and not some salvage yard used pull). So I'd be looking for a wiring fault. If not on your part when installing the replacement (recheck carefully it happens to the best of us), then perhaps a previous modification to the usual wiring for the starter solenoid that is not typical or usual for the solenoid hookup. The hookup should look exactly like the version I show in this video for a genuine GM starter motor.
@@DrShock Thanks for the reply. I called AC/Delco yesterday and even though it was a brand new unit, the tech support said the solenoid was bad. I surely did not want to take that thing back out so I remembered the positive wire end had a tip sticking out on one end rather than being round. I thought that tip was possibly touching the negative bolt so even though I knew I could not see those wires I did it by feel and decided to try readjusting the positive with the tip and making the tip stick straight up instead of sideways towards the negative post. That was the fix!!!!!!! I was so glad I did not have to take that thing back off because it was a bear...... 1995 GMC Sierra. Thanks again for taking the time to reply. I noticed most mechanic posters are just interested in getting a video up to make some money off the clicks/ views and never return to answer ONE question. You care.... Those don't. God Bless!!
I’ve got a 93 v6 that will start infrequently. Shop says it’s the starter which I plan to replace this weekend. However it does not click. It acts like it is about to turn over and then at the last second it won’t. Just makes a vroom sound. I have new fuel pump, plugs, wires, distributor cap, and battery. If I spray the intake with starter fluid and turn the key slow it will start but otherwise just the vroom sound. I’ll do the starter on Saturday but have a feeling it won’t fix the problem. Any suggestions?
Clicking isn't the only symptom. There are a few failure paths for a starter motor. Another symptom is a metal grinding noise (similar to turning the key while the engine is already started), which is when the solenoid is weak and the gear doesn't mesh with the flywheel/flex plate ring gear correctly (this one is usually from an engine oil leak contaminating the starter motor). Another failure can be worn brushes in the starter so that you have intermittent activation with no unusual noises at all. A high pitched whine, perhaps your _vroom_ , can also be another form of failure of gear engagement where it doesn't make contact at all, and so the starter is just spinning in place (another solenoid likely root cause).
@@DrShock awesome! Thanks so much for the quick reply, you have gained another subscriber in me. Appreciate all the help and the great video. I’ll let you know what happens after I replace the starter this weekend. You’re the man 👊🏻
This should be the correct ACDelco replacement nowadays for the year range in the video title. Check the video description for the part number for your original engine type, there are several different part numbers that vary by engine. Before you buy, verify the part number against your engine and model year with the seller as well.
I have a question I hope you are able to help. Recently I had my brother changed my starter and and the positive cable . It had 3 wires 1 for the alternator the other is for the starter and nother one I don't know where it goes Does it go to the Junction Box or on the starter . The truck will start but will not shut off
Yes I understand the question, but my first reaction is was this battery cable different than the original in some way that you have this how to hook up situation? I haven't worked on a truck of that year, but with 96 and up with that size engine, I'd see one that runs off the battery positive terminal cable to the starter solenoid, one to the alternator, and the third to the underhood fuse box (where the starter relay lives for example).
No, I don't. But if I had to do this I would pull a replacement from a salvage yard vehicle, like at LKQ, rather than fabricating it. That way you insure the right length and mounting clip points. The starter wiring within the overall harness has exhaust heat shielding that needs to be retained as well.
This indicates a electrical wiring problem somewhere. You need to double check _all_ of your wiring work that you did even if it wasn't related to the starter motor. At the motor be sure you have the smaller solenoid harness wires connected correctly in addition to the main motor power. If you touched anything else, go back over it carefully, you have something connected wrong here.
@@DrShock thank you the wiring on the solenoid to run the starter was touching the other one took it off adjusted now it's working fine. Thank you so much
I have a 96 4wd and removing the tire made it so much easier to R&R the 2 wires. It also ga e me enough room to use my creeper. Be sure to Jackson stand before rolling up under there…
Is there anything I need to remove to access the starter motor or do I just need to get it up in the air I have a 96 savana van and wanted to verify before I lifted her up
While I've done some work on G vans, I haven't had to replace a starter yet. So I couldn't say with certainty if you have some clearance or access issues. Can't be as bad as coming thru the _hood_ on a van though ;-)
Yes, similar but on some vehicles like an S truck the V6 is more of a pain to do (clearance limitations). No idea how involved it will be for a G van. You'll need to get it up on a ramp or such so you can take a peek underneath. I include the starter part number for the Vortec 4.3L V6 in the description as well. BTW, don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start fiddling with the starter motor connections. ;-)
Great video, I was able to replace the starter very easy but I did run into an issue. First: the small wire, the ring terminal broke when I was taking it off so I had to crimp a new onto it. I then continued to replace the starter like you did. Before I was getting the one “click” now I’m getting nothing when I rotate the key forward. Could this be due to the sensor wire i crimped?
Thanks. You might want to verify you have a good connection at all starter terminals (and that you have each connector back where it was supposed to go), and that your battery wasn't drained down before doing the repair here.
If you've got a V8, gas or diesel, just look at the oil pan and start heading towards the transmission end of it. The starter is going to be on the side as it mounts to the block but its nose pokes into the transmission bell housing so the gears can engage the flywheel, or flex plate if you have an automatic.
Of all else fails follow the biggest wire coming off the positive battery terminal. It will lead you right to the starter every time. While sitting in the drivers seat it will be on the RH side of the engine at the bell housing Right where the tranny/transfer case meet.
My 1977 chevy 350 starter went out due to heat soak. And it has the same bolt pattern as yours staggered 168 tooth flex plate. Just needing to know if this starter would work for me? And is this starter still working? Thanks!
This starter is still working great for me, I expect it to last at least as long as the one it replaced which was around 14 years (which is why I buy ACDelco). I wouldn't be able to answer for sure if it would fit a 1977, but check here parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php
This video isn't for just any 2001 year vehicle, but rather only those with the _Vortec_ _5700_ engines that originally came out in the 1990s C and K trucks and G vans. Those engines were still installed in some old body style (OBS) C/K trucks thru model year 2000, and G vans thru 2003.
Nice job. Clear simple, not missing steps as many DIY videos are.
Removing the Right tire makes it easier for fat fingers like mine to remove and replace the wires on the solenoid. For me the 5 min it took to jack up, jack stand and R&R the tire saves 30 minutes of cursing.
Great vid. Thanks for taking the time to post!
Great, informative video. I'm doing this right now on my 1998 C1500 ext cab, and it has the same wiring harness connections. Thanks! I'm replacing like for like, and the old one had no shims on it to replace for the new one, yeah!
Excellent video! Got the starter replaced on my '96 GMC K2500 in a jif thanks to your thorough step by step details.
You made this look quite a bit easier than in some other videos.
After watching the other videos I wasn’t too interested in doing this, but after watching your video I am confident.
Thanks
Great vid. Camera focused on the work, light on target area. Thumbs up bud.
thanks. i had trouble seeing the two electrical connections without taking the two main bolts off first. it is a pain with limited space.
Thanks Doc! My old starter died this afternoon.
Your video is terrific!
I just found your channel and I’m a subscriber as of now.
Great video.. helped make the job quite easy knowing the sockets needed beforehand. Thank you
Thanks for this video Dr. Shock. I have a 1995 Tahoe 2 wheel drive that I purchased back in 1994. It has just under 306,000 miles with what I believe is the original starter. I first noticed that it was laboring several weeks ago and today it clicked just like you had mentioned, then the under hood light went out while I was turning the ignition. I have been wondering when the starter was going to fail for the past several years and it finally did. Even though I'm mechanically inclined, I appreciate that you made this video. I was in dark territory before watching it.
I greatly respect your method of these informative videos
Thanks for the bolt sizes
Thanks for the great video. About replace the starter on my 5.7L 350 V8, and this is a good video to help guide me during that process. Thank you.
Thank you. Best video of it.
And the winner is drums beating dr shock another award winning how to
Very detailed, very helpful!
Thank you I am going to try this
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks for the vid.
Great video.
thanks man
Hey man I replace the starter I disconnect the battery and I'll put everything back on the only Power has is the hood light and the radio but no power on fuel pump & no creak no start
I've had my '95 k2500 for years but if it had a heat shield, it was long gone before I got it. That's probably what cooks the solenoids.(exhaust heat)
Yep, very likely. Only the original GM one had the shield, if someone didn't bother to transfer it to the replacement, even if a ACDelco, it would be gone and leave the solenoid exposed to the exhaust manifold on certain vehicles. Its not a big deal on many, but a K truck with the 5.7L it's definitely too close without a shield in place for a long life.
What is the sensor above the starter? I just replaced my starter and found that the wire going to this sensor connector is starting to fray.
Awesome
My 91 has a plug into the firewall that was broken. Doesn't seem to be a part of the starter but not for sure, Any idea what this is>?
please any advice is very appreciete,I'm tried to bring down the starter but the tranmissin cooler line is in the way,my is 2007 gmc yukon denali.
On this type of truck rather than drop it straight down, instead try to pull it up across the frame rail. You'll need to remove the plastic splash panel in the wheel well to get the access.
@@DrShock Thank you
Awesome video, bought a 96 by blazer for super cheap because if that grinding metal noise when trying to start. Runs fine after started. Installed a new starter (old one went out soon I got it home. Long story shirt replaced started but still crazy grinding sound. Seems flywheel is rubbing the starting above where the starter gear pops out. No shims came out old starter. Any ideas?.
Either an tooth alignment problem due to needing a shim (can cause the solenoid not to be able to get the nose gear aligned with the flywheel), incorrect bolts (they have to be the OEM knurled type), or theres a defect with the flywheel itself (crack, missing teeth, bent).
@@DrShock bolts do not seem to be original just straight shaft
They should be knurled with hashmarks above the threads, I show a view of this at 13:30 in the video. I also have the GM part number and link for them in the description. If the bolts are no longer actual starter motor mounting bolts, it's possible the shims were lost as well. If you check out the 1998 service manual here www.gmt400.com/threads/88-95-service-manuals.43575/ and within volume 2 follow the procedure at page 6-983 to shim the starter motor if needed. I'd also do the procedure at page 6-1011 to be sure.
I have a 1995 c1500 with the 4.3 liter v6. When I tried to start it, the trick made a really loud crank noise so im fairly sure it's the starter drive gear. My question is would it be safer just to by a new starter rather than a rebuilt one?
They usually go out, either the drive gear or the solenoid, from rear main seal or other such oil leaks. Motor oil deteriorates them pretty quickly. If yours looks like it's had a leak on it, I'd not bother trying to rebuild it and just buy a new or already rebuilt/remanufactured one. With the remanufactured ones you have to be careful on the brands, cheaper is not better there. I have had good luck with ACDelco remans though.
I have a 2000 GMC savanna van 5.7 hopefully same layout I know wires can be a hassle usually starts right up lately cple times starter dragged with new battery hopefully its starter any advice?
Any update? Any luck?
I jave a 93 k1500 5.7. Tbi and i have 3 cables going to my starter .one from battery and two other small ones i believe one goes to coil and other towards alternator harness .need help
The factory GM harness reconnection is shown at 15:41 and there are only two terminals (a 1998 late model type starter is illustrated). The largest size terminal is a direct battery connection (this part of the harness may also branch off to the alternator further up via a fusible link but there's just the one lug terminal to the starter stud) and ma be labeled _B_ on the starter solenoid stud end. The 2nd terminal shown in the video will also be the signal or sense wire from the ignition switch, usually labeled _S_ and purple in color. These two should be common with your 1993 layout as well according to the 1993 GM service manual, unless someone has modified the original GM wiring harness. Here's a link to where you can view the 1993 electrical service manual for your truck - www.gmt400.com/threads/88-95-service-manuals.43575/
Now I have seen older GM starters have a third stud to the ignition coil, sometimes labeled _R_ but I don't see that in the 93 service manual for your truck.
Replaced my starter with a brand new one and when I hook the battery up the starter starts turning. What causes this? Also only has two wire bolts so could not mix them up.
For the GM model year trucks and vans this video covers, if the previous starter behaved normally until it otherwise failed, prompting the replacement, then this kind of starter solenoid behavior is going to be in the wiring of the replacement starter.
The starter going off on its own could be in the starter relay being stuck, a defective solenoid, or the ignition circuit. But those defects would have existed _prior_ to replacing the starter motor, not as a result of the swap itself (presuming you have a new starter and not some salvage yard used pull).
So I'd be looking for a wiring fault. If not on your part when installing the replacement (recheck carefully it happens to the best of us), then perhaps a previous modification to the usual wiring for the starter solenoid that is not typical or usual for the solenoid hookup. The hookup should look exactly like the version I show in this video for a genuine GM starter motor.
@@DrShock Thanks for the reply. I called AC/Delco yesterday and even though it was a brand new unit, the tech support said the solenoid was bad. I surely did not want to take that thing back out so I remembered the positive wire end had a tip sticking out on one end rather than being round. I thought that tip was possibly touching the negative bolt so even though I knew I could not see those wires I did it by feel and decided to try readjusting the positive with the tip and making the tip stick straight up instead of sideways towards the negative post. That was the fix!!!!!!! I was so glad I did not have to take that thing back off because it was a bear...... 1995 GMC Sierra. Thanks again for taking the time to reply. I noticed most mechanic posters are just interested in getting a video up to make some money off the clicks/ views and never return to answer ONE question. You care.... Those don't. God Bless!!
I’ve got a 93 v6 that will start infrequently. Shop says it’s the starter which I plan to replace this weekend. However it does not click. It acts like it is about to turn over and then at the last second it won’t. Just makes a vroom sound. I have new fuel pump, plugs, wires, distributor cap, and battery. If I spray the intake with starter fluid and turn the key slow it will start but otherwise just the vroom sound. I’ll do the starter on Saturday but have a feeling it won’t fix the problem. Any suggestions?
Clicking isn't the only symptom. There are a few failure paths for a starter motor. Another symptom is a metal grinding noise (similar to turning the key while the engine is already started), which is when the solenoid is weak and the gear doesn't mesh with the flywheel/flex plate ring gear correctly (this one is usually from an engine oil leak contaminating the starter motor). Another failure can be worn brushes in the starter so that you have intermittent activation with no unusual noises at all. A high pitched whine, perhaps your _vroom_ , can also be another form of failure of gear engagement where it doesn't make contact at all, and so the starter is just spinning in place (another solenoid likely root cause).
@@DrShock awesome! Thanks so much for the quick reply, you have gained another subscriber in me. Appreciate all the help and the great video. I’ll let you know what happens after I replace the starter this weekend. You’re the man 👊🏻
My 96 k1500 has a direct drive starter, will this gear reduction starter work on it as well? Thanks
This should be the correct ACDelco replacement nowadays for the year range in the video title. Check the video description for the part number for your original engine type, there are several different part numbers that vary by engine. Before you buy, verify the part number against your engine and model year with the seller as well.
I have a question I hope you are able to help. Recently I had my brother changed my starter and and the positive cable . It had 3 wires 1 for the alternator the other is for the starter and nother one I don't know where it goes Does it go to the Junction Box or on the starter . The truck will start but will not shut off
I hope you understand the question and its for a 1991 silverado 5.7 350 motor
Yes I understand the question, but my first reaction is was this battery cable different than the original in some way that you have this how to hook up situation? I haven't worked on a truck of that year, but with 96 and up with that size engine, I'd see one that runs off the battery positive terminal cable to the starter solenoid, one to the alternator, and the third to the underhood fuse box (where the starter relay lives for example).
I need to replace the wires going to the starter. Do you happen to know the gauge of wire and the size of the end connectors would I need?
No, I don't. But if I had to do this I would pull a replacement from a salvage yard vehicle, like at LKQ, rather than fabricating it. That way you insure the right length and mounting clip points. The starter wiring within the overall harness has exhaust heat shielding that needs to be retained as well.
I need help I change the starter put it back on now when I plug in the battery to starter kicks on why is that????
This indicates a electrical wiring problem somewhere. You need to double check _all_ of your wiring work that you did even if it wasn't related to the starter motor. At the motor be sure you have the smaller solenoid harness wires connected correctly in addition to the main motor power. If you touched anything else, go back over it carefully, you have something connected wrong here.
@@DrShock thank you the wiring on the solenoid to run the starter was touching the other one took it off adjusted now it's working fine. Thank you so much
Do I need to remove the tire for this?
Not on pickup or SUV body styles for the specific engine this video covers. Not sure about vans though.
I have a 96 4wd and removing the tire made it so much easier to R&R the 2 wires. It also ga e me enough room to use my creeper. Be sure to Jackson stand before rolling up under there…
Did you have to remove the tire
Nope
I do. It’s easier for me but I have fat fingers and gaining access to the wires from the Side was easier for me. Jacking up also have me creeper room.
Is there anything I need to remove to access the starter motor or do I just need to get it up in the air I have a 96 savana van and wanted to verify before I lifted her up
While I've done some work on G vans, I haven't had to replace a starter yet. So I couldn't say with certainty if you have some clearance or access issues. Can't be as bad as coming thru the _hood_ on a van though ;-)
@@DrShock true lol going through the hood is worse than pulling my daddies old mule through the mud lol
@@DrShock okay so apparently I was in correct my van is the v6 instead of the v8 would the installation be similiar
Yes, similar but on some vehicles like an S truck the V6 is more of a pain to do (clearance limitations). No idea how involved it will be for a G van. You'll need to get it up on a ramp or such so you can take a peek underneath. I include the starter part number for the Vortec 4.3L V6 in the description as well. BTW, don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start fiddling with the starter motor connections. ;-)
@@DrShock lol thanks for the reminder idrather not make that mistake again ouch
I grease up connectors with red grease, keeps it from corroding, black grease will wash off
Great video, I was able to replace the starter very easy but I did run into an issue.
First: the small wire, the ring terminal broke when I was taking it off so I had to crimp a new onto it.
I then continued to replace the starter like you did. Before I was getting the one “click” now I’m getting nothing when I rotate the key forward. Could this be due to the sensor wire i crimped?
Thanks. You might want to verify you have a good connection at all starter terminals (and that you have each connector back where it was supposed to go), and that your battery wasn't drained down before doing the repair here.
Any update?
Watched 5 videos and can’t find the starter
If you've got a V8, gas or diesel, just look at the oil pan and start heading towards the transmission end of it. The starter is going to be on the side as it mounts to the block but its nose pokes into the transmission bell housing so the gears can engage the flywheel, or flex plate if you have an automatic.
Of all else fails follow the biggest wire coming off the positive battery terminal. It will lead you right to the starter every time.
While sitting in the drivers seat it will be on the RH side of the engine at the bell housing
Right where the tranny/transfer case meet.
Is the starter on a 2008 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3L V8 2wd in the engine block or the transmission bell housing?
My 1977 chevy 350 starter went out due to heat soak. And it has the same bolt pattern as yours staggered 168 tooth flex plate. Just needing to know if this starter would work for me? And is this starter still working? Thanks!
This starter is still working great for me, I expect it to last at least as long as the one it replaced which was around 14 years (which is why I buy ACDelco). I wouldn't be able to answer for sure if it would fit a 1977, but check here parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php
NO the permanent magnet little starter will NOT work for you. There's a different number of teeth on it compared to the big heavy starter you have.
very different on 2001
This video isn't for just any 2001 year vehicle, but rather only those with the _Vortec_ _5700_ engines that originally came out in the 1990s C and K trucks and G vans. Those engines were still installed in some old body style (OBS) C/K trucks thru model year 2000, and G vans thru 2003.
@@DrShock might change your title then as my 97 GMC is similar
but other trucks that are newer are much different after 2000
just a thought
YESSS I got that bitch done in a few hours thanks to your vid. Thank you!! Now I can drive the shitbox for a few more days 😂😂
That “shit box” is a sweetheart. Just like a gal she needs to be patted on the Fanny and told you love her.
Shims are not washers lol they make one pice shims that come with a good stater so yea never had washers on or in any starter of mine