How to Break in a New Motorcycle
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2023
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Glad you covered this. The motorcycle break in period is such a controversial topic, yet in the the end it’s simple, just don’t be stupid and ride your bike like you usually would. Like you said engineering has come so far in the past decade. If you’re buying a Japanese bike you truly shouldn’t worry.
now you said it -it really depends on the bike, some bikes are manufactured old school, while some are so precise it doesnt matter
It's largely the boomers regurgitating what they learned in the 70's. That was HALF A CENTURY ago, and things have changed, but they haven't bothered to update "what they know"...
My new yamahas engine broke at 109 miles
@@ryanslaven3482same even i did baby brekin still it got crank shaft problem
@@designertech192errr which Yamaha?
Cycle World or MotorCyclist did a video on this a couple years ago... They took two identical bikes, broke one in by the manual, and the other by wringing its neck near redline much of the time. When done, they ran them on the dyno, did oil analysis in a lab, compression and leak down tests and took the motors apart and took exact measurements... No appreciable difference between the two break in methods...
I was recently asked to help break in a bunch of new Triumphs for this year's demo and promotional fleet... The tech in charge told us not to abuse them, but he preferred if we broke them in harder and put them through their paces...
Excellent insight. Thank you.
Also note the bike was a very understressed CB300R... so no stress even on full throttle.
I would not do a hard break-in on a superbike with 200 bhp per liter and a 14,000 to 16,000 r/min red line.
@@thainaaier
No one would expect that. When I say “car” I don’t mean a Ferrari Enzo. When they say motorcycle, they don’t mean a track ready liter bike.
@@thainaaier I wouldn't;t do it entirely at redline either, but the point was, they did the exact opposite of the manual instructions and it was absolutely fine.
I split the difference between the two. I break it in fairly hard, and have even broken a bike in at a track day...
And after 30.000 miles?
For me, aside from Yam's mentioned things about breaking in a motorcycle.. it also includes you and your new bike's 1st phase of relationship (like getting to know each other period). By the time that you are already familiar with how the bike behaves, handles, controls, etc. basically you're done breaking it in.
THIS COMMENT MADE IT SO EASIER FOR ME TO UNDERSTAND THANK YOU, its just put in easier words hahah but yuppp i would assume to!!
Agree! I took it easy getting used to the bike the first 200-300 miles then just rode it the way I like to ride
@@ghaithk7167wat about old change do u recommend after those 200 to 300 miles to change oil ?
As a master tech, and someone who has built many engines.. I completely agree with break it in exactly how you drive it.
Thank you!
I bought a KLR650 off the showroom floor with 0 miles. Babied it for the first 100 miles, mostly city riding- stop and go then rode it normal. It did fine and still runs like a champ
Engine development engineer and I love hard break in. Compression and pressure
I follow what a good portion of engine builders, racers, and dyno operators follow. Regardless of the internal combustion engine once the oil is up to maximum temperature then all dissimilar metals are fully expanded to their operating tolerances, and it's good to run it how it's gonna be used.
Thank you for the advice and information
I'm buying my first new bike tomorrow and I wasn't sure what was truth and what was bs
After watching this I'm going to go just ride how i would around town and just keep it under 6k for the first 100 miles then 8-10k
till the 600 mile service well working the tires and breaks
I have actually broken in a motorcycle and dirt bike both soft and hard and never had an issue. I always warm them up then go. Proper oil changes etc are why I think is the most important other than having fun. 😂❤
Maybe you don't keep your bikes that long. The issue with not breaking in a gearbox, don't show the first 2000 miles. And it starts with small problems like it is hard to get into neutral. Ever heard about that before?
Or the bike pops out of gear, when you open the throttle a bit hard. That can be bad break in. You never know. Maybe it is not even possible to check it. Other then doing a experiment. But that is going to take years, lot of work. Cost a lot of money.
Know one has time for that. or care if their toys break.
@@Gismo3333 just saw your reply. My oldest bike is a 1973 and my newest is a 2022. I have had 2 stroke and 4 stroke motorcycles. I have completely rebuilt bikes of various sizes. I am a firm believer in fresh fluids and warm ups. If the motorcycle was built right. If everything has been seated correctly from main bearings, to piston rings all properly gapped & cleaned you shouldn’t have any issues. That being said it also depends on the type of motor. If you have a high strong racing motor that’s close to the edge you have to follow the rules of engagement. On the other side of you have an everyday reliable commuting motorcycle for the average rider… they are built to last even with the worst owner. It’s all up to how they are handled and if you know your machine and it’s characteristics.
In the early 90's I totally rebuilt my 1986 FZ 750. The mechanic I bought it from said to first use the crappiest, straight 30w oil for the first 200 miles, then switch to good quality non synthetic for the next 3000, and finally to full synthetic after if I wanted to. For that first 200, no steady rpms but be sure to occasionally hit near the rev limiter. After the 200 and first oil change, ride it as hard as I wanted.
I never did go full syn, but ran that bike hard for over 45,000 miles. It NEVER burned oil, lost only 2 or less psi compression, and did not even need valve adjustment. (Normal valve interval was 26,000 miles in the 5 valve per Genesis motor).
So, break in moderately hard for first 200, then go all out after.
That crappy, straight 30w oil was awful advice. The rest wasn’t bad, but you want to break it in with something heavier in zinc, if you’re actually breaking it in. Crappy oil is just that, crappy. He was right about not switching to full synthetic right off the bat. It prolongs the breakin period, because it lubricates better. It doesn’t allow parts to wear into themselves as fast.
Got an Africa Twin last month as my first bike, im still breaking in (102 miles), i'm doing a bit of both since im not a hard driver (its my first big bike), 6 years ago i used to drive 150cc and 200cc from my uncles.
I went on a tour of the triumph factory and the tour guide told us that there is no need for a break in period at all anymore for their bikes
I chose to do the gentle break in. Was just following the manufacturer recommendations. This is my first bike and should hit the 600 miles on my way home today. Got the oil change kit and what I need to clean and lube the chain ready to go. Also decided to get out the torque wrenches and go over the bike just to be sure things are right.
Well-played… especially making sure bolts are tightened. My bolts on my left foot peg mount got loose and I didn’t realize until one bolt had completely fallen out, and the one remaining bolt was hanging by a thread… luckily I was able to secure it , but if my left foot peg came off mid ride, that would have SUCKED.
600 miles for me today too.....can't beat a new bike.....
I would say its about avoiding heat by keeping revs low. Too much heat may wear things out specially when new engine isn't clean.
My bike ran really hot for 2 hours straight due to traffic right after I took the delivery. Even though I kept RPMs low I still engine doesn't like running in hot conditions of India. In evening it runs butter smooth, and bike feels alive.
Thanks for the video! Just got a bike with 2 miles, sv650. And I did follow the manufacturer recommendations for the first 250 miles. I took it up to 7k revs briefly a few times. Runs fine no issues. Getting ready for the first break in service. This video brought piece of mind and it is quite true what is stated. Thanks again!
PEACE of mind, not a PIECE of your mind.
i’d say ride your bike like how you want it to, my grandfather bought a new motorcycle and took the “soft break in” route, and because he babied his bike too much, it runs slower compared to the other same model bikes. Moral of the story, just run it like how you would want the bike to run. Don’t worry too much about breaking it, especially if it’s a japanese brand.
I basically ride it from day 1 like I ride it on day 365. I don't bounce off the revi limiter or ride on the highway so I naturally ride with varying RPM around the Blue Ridge Mountain twisties.
When the Honda Fireblade first came out Honda told race teams it's good to go from the off & will give more power riding hard.
They put a break in period in the hand book probably for people to familiarise themselves with such a powerful bike.
My last CBR600 hand book didn't really say much about the break or at what rpm but my previous one did.
That is because racing teams, and people riding their bikes on the road. Is not the same riding, not the same service intervals. Not even the same bikes or parts. You can never take advise from a race bike, to a road bike.
They have service on the bike after every race. Do you tear down your engine after you taken your bike out for a weekend ride?
Don't think so.
Stop comparing your self with racers and race bikes.
They also don't use the bikes that long. And chance parts all the time. If they blow a gearbox, they chance it… You would probably had to sell the bike, or wait to save up the money; to have a shop fix it.
This is really spreading misinformation that really can hurt other people. But this is OK…?
@@Gismo3333 if you read what i said it's what Honda said & not what i would do or recommend, it's all documented in the Haynes book of the Honda Fireblade CBR 900R by Rob Simmonds.
@@TriumphBeezaman -- Stop using & in your comments. It seems like you are using it instead of "and". That is not what it mean.
I think you did not understand or did not read my comment.
You did not even understand your own first comment, it seems. This is a tip to a race team's, and to be used on race-bikes, that probably never runs more then 1-2K miles before it get trashed. You can't use this on road bikes with 3000 - 6000 mile intervals on service. Race-bike have a service after every race. And also closely monitored under the race. You never see a race-bike run 60 000 miles+…
It is not the same bikes. Even if the names are similar.
I know you dislike the engine but I just bought a new 2022 Kawasaki Z650RS. I live in a very rural area so bike selection is slim. I wanted an XSR700 or 900 but it just wasn’t happening. This video came out just in time though so I can learn how to break in that slug of an engine.
The Z650RS is a fantastic bike, really great value for money! It may not be the most "charismatic" engine but it's a great engine, and I personally think the looks of the bike are great. Awesome choice, happy riding!
Why apologize for the brand of bike you purchased? You got a new bike and now your good to go, be safe!
@@2shoestoo absolutely. I was just cracking jokes about how Yam hates on the Kawi 650 engine. I am super happy with my bike and excited to put some serious commuter miles on it this summer.
Nice I just bought a 2023 last week! I think for my uses,and at my current skill level, the 650 has plenty to offer.
Thanks for this video. Ive just put a deposit down on my first bike. Brand new kawasaki z650. And ive been wonderinh about this break in period. After this vid im alot more confident about it. Thanks dude.
Being that you bought a 650 for your first home, go soft break-in! ;)
I Just bought a 2024 Kawasaki Vulcan S on Tuesday. I have been following the manufacturer's break in period guidance and it has been brutal. The manual says during the first 250 miles that I should keep the RPMs under 4k and it is killing me! Putting around at 40mph on the back roads... However, Thanks to this video, I think I will just cruise on it like I planned to, Thanks Yammie!
I have had two bikes in the past year and bought both with around 300 miles on them. I rode the first bike (Z 125) till around 1,000 miles and changed the oil I rode it hard and had no issues. The second bike (Duke 390) I have also rode hard and the owner's manual said to wait and change the oil at 2,400 miles which I thought was weird I have ridden about 2,000 miles on it and have now changed the oil and have found no issues. I guess my point is that yes you can change your oil early but if you are mechanically inclined you would notice any issues found. I am definitely on the side of hard break in.
I changed the oil and filter at 400 miles after a rebuild, again at 400 miles and once more at 1000 on my 1995 nissan truck. And that little sucker idles smoooth. It burns gas so efficiently that water vapor drips on the exhaust. Oh by the way first 400 miles i kept it under 35 mph and off freeways, and sporadic take offs. Noticed the smoothness getting better and better each drive. Followed my mechanics orders of keeping it slow the first 400 miles, used O'rilleys conventional oil and filters, nothing fancy. I remember the first peppy accelaration going uphills.
Back in my day, the dealer I bought my dual sport from told me to just ride it normal not crazy. That’s it. This was 2 years ago.
As a new rider on a new bike, This video was the reassurance I needed that my motor isn't dying from the 3 times I accidently revved to 6-7k my first time in traffic.
Love ya Yam
Australian warranty laws are pretty robust as long as you follow the manufacturer recommendations. There is not a lot of arguing here but regular maintenance needs to be done by a registered mechanic. I just followed the book procedure on my Sportster S. It does actually recommend pushing the rev range after the first 600km run in, just not above 2/3. After 1000km you are encouraged to open it up to anything below redline.
Well ,I run no more that 55 miles and hr on state streets that alow 55 mph for 500 mile change oil and filter at 500 and ride normal after. That has been exellent for all 5 of my motorcycles. Never have a engine problem.
I bought a new, 2021 cbr1000rr in august, and the manual literally said just be nice to it for the first 600 miles. Lol.
Thanks for the video, Yam.
I’ve been watching your videos religiously while I gear up to buy my 1st bike, a brand new CFMOTO 450SS.
The break in period has been one of the more confusing things for me to understand. However, after watching this I feel like I have some minute understanding of the scientific or mechanical importance of the break in and that makes me feel a little better. 🦑
A Harley mechanic recommended getting up through the gears quickly to 3rd and 60mph, then let off and engine break, repeat 3 times…that breaks it in, the engine braking seats the seals. I did one bike per manufacturer and one this way and swear the engine break method felt like it ran smoother. Then change the oil at 100 -125 miles. After that, don’t go crazy but ride as normal. For the brakes, smooth progressive braking.
On high end sports cars engines in the past few years, the computers (ECM) actually don't allow you to go above 4000rpm on the throttle for the first 500kms, then you do an oil change and it allows full throttle. That tells you everything you need to know.
Some sport bikes do the same thing. Although, my cbr1000rr manual just sad avoid heavy acceleration and braking until the 600 mile oil change. There aren’t many things besides our father in heaven that I trust, but Honda engineers are one of them. Lol.
Some sport bikes do the same thing. Although, my cbr1000rr manual just sad avoid heavy acceleration and braking until the 600 mile oil change. There aren’t many things besides our father in heaven that I trust, but Honda engineers are one of them. Lol.
Actually THIS is the real answer 👇
Do exactly what the manufacturer/ manual tells you to do . Modern motorcycles are driving computers . If you get a problem and the dealership reads out your bike and sees that you didn't give a fuck about the break in period then they have an argument for refusing warranty repair
Thanks…I’m looking forward to doing a wheelie while leaving the dealership
yam please share your in depth observation of the motorcycle scene in india that you saw apart from Jaisalmer
Its not only the piston, its equally important for the crankshaft bearing.
I've owned at least 10 brand new bikes from beginner to the big boys zx14,hayabusa etc. Cruisers to touring and sport ive never broke in a new bike I just rode it and never had a problem ever from all manufactures
I rode my new gsxr 1000 r pretty normally for the first 375 miles didnt really go over 7-8krpm but used more load as miles increased and had some spirited rides, using plenty of throttle, bike never ran hard unless fully warmed up.
Had first service done at 375 then hit 10kish rpm and after 500 miles 10-12krpm here and there, had a long highway ride too tried to vary revs at this point i was in high 500s 600 miles.
I believe bike was pretty much run in way earlier than we think
Just my 2 pence
I usually take an angle grinder to the tires to get em sticky. Then I will file down the brake pads to ensure the meat is causing the friction. Otherwise I just drive it on road and people a lawns to get the variable rpm’s.
How the hell did you know to make this video today?! I just ordered a new ninja 400 few hours ago!!! what kind of magic is that 😂
What year bro
@@juanmata3394 Er..he said new?
I knoww, im still waiting for the kawasaki dealership message that my new bike arrived, i cant freaking wait!
Been bingewatching him and others like crazy!
Hard break in involving plenty of varying load on the engine at medium revs with the occasional venture towards the red line. Don't let it lug at all or run at constant load/revs for long.
I don't know I'd probably do a combination of that. Run the manufacturer one then do hard breaking after but I guess it's done breaking in if you finish the manufacturer one but you know
I seat the rings by heat cycling before it leaves the shop so it can be tuned in the dyno and the owner don’t have to worry with it. Most guys are gonna go crack it wide open anyway after they pay 4k in upgrades
Getting my first bike in the morning. Burnout and wheelie first thing. That's why I'm subscribed to Yammie Noob
How’s your new bike?
@@NykesterWaltzz I love it can't wait to ride everyday
Hello! to get to those 600 miles , do you recommend to do it with long rides o short ones ? or its the same ? Thank you .. Greetings from Costa Rica
I don't hit limiter . But I break my bikes in a little hard. My 701 doesn't burn oil. Yet I hear many people complain about. 690/701 oil consumption.
Excellent timing...literally just collected my new Hayabusa....
Can’t wait to see the turboing videos. 🤘🏻
You got a busa and don’t already know how to break in a bike? God help you.
Why? I last bought a new bike decades ago. Why should I be an expert on breaking a new bike in? @@techtonicblast4421
I do believe in not redlining it for the first 50-150 miles, keep the revs moving around, show it some load but no lugging, engine braking,, then drop that oil and send it! Change oil again about 1-200 miles later than normal intervals. Engines break in alot earlier than 1000 miles
I have heard arguments on the hard break-in side that you need to build up oil pressure by riding it as hard as humanly possible to also fully seat the seal rings. I personally think it doesn't matter anymore how you break in the engine with todays motorcycles.
Most engines now have variable oil pumps and the pressure doesnt significantly change like it did 5-10 years ago.
I bought a new thumper for my first bike . Gotta take care of that piston. Its the only one I got.
The more important, that is more important. Is to be smooth on the gearbox and all the controls. They you also learn to be a much better rider. They you mostly don't get problems later, with hard to get into neutral… Or the bike get hard to get in or out of some of the gears. Or even that the bike sometimes jump out of gear.
Chancing the cylinder is noting compared to changing the gearbox. Or even fix some gears in the trans. That is when most people just buy a new engine, another part-bike or a new bike.
So it is more to let the gear box loosen up before you wear in the gears. Or they are going to be way to loose when the gearbox loosen up.
ryan f9 made a video explaining how to brake in a new bike. its pretty old but it is very intresting
Just bought a new 2023 Z900, I have a 2005 R6 for the track and a grom. I totally don’t know which is the best break in because I ride fast.
Tks. much.
My bike redlines at 8000 but yammie if you say I can't run up to 10,000 after 1000 miles I'm gonna do my best to run that bigger up there. If it's best for my bike than I trust you Yams.
Yamaha YZFR6 2016!
Hey Yammie, I can’t fiend a good video explaining kickback form a kickstart moter cycle, could you explain ?
I always used the hard break in and not had any problems
For me, I'm soon gonna become a motorcycle rider and I'm thinking of getting a triumph bonneville t100, do y'all have any tips on the break-in stage for that bike?
Most manufacturers nowadays do the engine break-in for you. Such as Aprilia
guy at the dealer gave me funny advice:
Gentle, low RPM riding for 300 miles... then just have fun for the next 300, rev her all the way up when you see the oportunity, just dont hold red-line for to long.
I remember when my Z900 was new .. first 1000 km should be under 4000 rpm, that is pretty low for a "sport" bike
yeah Chris Moore himself bought a ZX10R and was roll racing it with like 50 miles on it.... he said the break in is for roookies...
Don't be afraid to talk about a valve job to go along with that oil change.
My experience might just be anecdotal, however I’ve owned around 20 bikes now. The one time I didn’t follow the manufacturer’s break in instructions, at only a few thousand the engine seized. YMMV (hopefully) and the manufacturer did replace the bike. Circumstantial? Who knows!
How many times do you see this in movies and TV shows? Guy gets in vehicle, starts it, and immediately burns rubber leaving. A nice lesson in vehicle abuse.
Cry harder. Maybe you'll create a river so you'll float downstream away and find people that care. 😭😭😭💩🤡
I think you should load and unload the engine. You know, engine braking. Accelerate, cruise a bit, engine brake. Also lots of heat cycles.
They have done tons of research on this. There is no difference between a hard brake in and a soft brake in. You just need to just ride it like it’s intended to only thing you should do is change the oil more often until you hit 600 miles. You will have some metal flakes in it that is OK it’s common. The manual says don’t do high RPMs it’s because they don’t want you to break anything while it’s under warranty.
The warranty here is 5 years on Yamaha and Honda. Suzuki has 7 years. Kawasaki 2 years. The manuals statement to avoid warranty claims can't be true. You will easily pass the break in period in a couple of months even if you don't ride alot.
Was planning on getting a new bike this year (if so be my first new new one) and was thinking of how to break in. Gonna be a jump in engine size so the break-in period is probably going to be me getting used to the size difference
Sounds like you are going up in power way to early. You should then have no problem doing a stoppy on your new bike… And don't be bothered at all by some car pulling out in-front of you. Changing lanes to miss cars. You should not have to get used to the bigger weight or power of the bike. Then you need more training on your small bike. Training to be better on a bigger bike, is really much hard and much more dangerous. It is like talking 5-10+ years (or maybe never) to learn what take 1-2 years on a smaller bike.
@@Gismo3333 literally nobody on the planet moves up in power and size on a motorcycle without some kind of adjustment period. Nobody. Every, single person that has ever went from a 600 super sport to a liter bike has had to take a bit to train their muscle memory again to allow for the difference in acceleration.
Josh, you’re doing it the right way, man. It will take some time getting used to a bigger bike. Good luck and be safe, man.
Broke in my 2020 Vulcan s probably the softest way imaginable. Sitting at 25k miles no problems. Even took it in for the 15k mile valve lash check and they said just come back at 30k miles. Although i am gonna be coming up on my second clutch change pretty soon clutch soon but that's normal.
2 clutches in 30,000 miles is NOT NORMAL.
@billbonu1639 depending on how u ride now. My first was misadjusted from factory so it only had enough friction for normal riding but would slip riding hard in the twisties
I have a question and haven’t been able to find an answer but simply does the bike sound different before and after the break in period or does the break in period not affect how it sounds?
Well intentioned video. However. After owning 22 motorcycles and over 60 years of riding, my recommendation is to follow the manufacturer's guidelines and you just can't have too many oil changes, especially the first few thousand miles. Each one removes more metal shavings from the cylinders and will reduce wear in the long run. Honda, for example, sells nearly 20 million motorcycles per year and I think they know more than a you tuber. That said, I doubt you can really hurt a modern bike unless you really abuse it. So just riding it sensibly and changing the oil is my best practice suggestion. Just my opinion.
I think hard. I heard this years ago and for me its much easier to do hard break ins for me. My first street bike when I was 15 1/2 yrs old was a brand new i think 74 Honda XL250. Never broke it in rode this piss out off it never changed the oil. Dont even know how many miles I had on it and finally chipped a ring. Then kept riding it till it would not go any more. But nothing should off lasted almost 3 years being treated like that. Then I rebuilt it but while i was in there took a cam from an XL350 stuck it in there rejetted the carbs put a down swept less restrictive exualts and that thing poped way better. Then some fool wanted to trade for a Kawi Z1900 and a squid was borned. Since then i think proper maintnence is much more important then a wussy breakin which is boring or just ride and dont get stupid breakins.
PS not a squid no more. Just ride a Suzuki Vstrom 1000 and a Honda st1300.
For me as long as your mc is need power try not to limit it but try squeeze more power acceleration but not totally fully rev so after 100-300km I usually make a full throttle but limit time only until my mc power and fastened pickup
Whut?
If the engines were tested at the factory did they run it before attaching the odometer?
Ya probably would have done this. A few months ago I bought a 2023 CRF250F new bud did not break it in😅
im about to buy a brand new MT-09 either '21 or '22. should i start popping dank nooners immediately or ride like a 900lb harley for 1000 kilometers
I’ve always been a fan of breaking the bike in how you plan on riding it 90% of the time.
“Take heed to the manufacturer’s recommendations”
ZX4RR wants you to keep it at or below 4k rpm, I tried that and in 6th gear I was going 42 mph, I think that’s one recommendation I definitely won’t be listening to 💀
My advice for new bike (or a rebuilt engine) owners has always been "be nice." After a few hundred miles you'll know of the engine of going to grenade under pressure and you can go nuts at that point.
That is not the same. Rebuilt engine has never been run, before. All parts are new and unused. The new bike have been used and tested. I would not push the bike hard before the gear box and the whole engine has loosen up a bit. That can make the bike feel trashy. You can get problems with getting it into neutral and pop out of gear. Hard to shift. But that comes later. Maybe when you are about to sell the bike. Then it gets hard to sell, and the price drops hard. The cylinders are not the most important to run in. The hard part to fix is the gearbox and the other parts.
Just look at all the problems whit Jam's Turbo Busa. Not all people care to do things careful. You skip something to make it easier, it blows up later. That is how you make problems, not see to that they don't happen.
@Gismo TB maybe be nice means something to you that it doesn't mean to me. With 45 years of riding, the meaning has changed for me since I first heard it. My 2022 MT09 got a few hundred miles of less than 8k rpm before I started abusing it. My 1982 v45 Sabre got almost 1,000.
@@theodorecalkins4212 -- Riding for 45 years, can be riding every day for 45 year; to have a bike outside the house for 45 years.
I have seen a woman ride 8000 miles in 24 days. So how many years you have had a bike, do not say much to me.
Riding a bike maybe 200 miles and then abusing it. Abusing a bike, maybe you think it sounds tough to say. if you are 16 years old… but not when you are 60…
That bike will not hold much miles. If you sell the bike, I feel sorry for the one buying it from you. Because that bike is going to fall apart, not long after.
It do not sound like you know so much about bikes, that you trying to make it out to be.
This is what a 16-20 year old would think is impressive. Not a old gay like me.
To me it sound like whole lot of horseshit and bull crap. And you have no clue what you are talking about.
I would say you are a new rider, like most people watching this videos. And are abusing your first bike. And are clueless to what you have to look forward to.
This is not the way to talk about bikes, and give tips to new riders, if you know how bikes work. And also have a lifetime experience.
I would say you need to grow up real quick… Before you hurt your self or someone else.
@Gismo TB about 500,000 miles give or take a few. You're a funny guy. I'm not concerned with what you think of me, only a 15 year old kid would be.
Your owners manual will tell you exactly what to do. Follow directions. Change oil at 150, 600, & 1000. It don't cost much
I like engine longegivity
Just got a Ducati. Been taking it easy but I may have pushed past 80mph a few times. Nothing serious though. Just hit 130 miles.
How fast you are going, has not much to say. More how hard the gearbox have to work, before it has loosen up. If you drive it to abrupt, the gears will not fit as good and be so nice it cud have been. If you be more smooth… No hard fast moves. Every thing goes better. And maybe you can also skip low-side or high-side your bike, too.
Take it straight from the dealer to a track and keep it at red line until you reach the first thousand or so miles.
I just hauled my bike(new 0 miles) home today in the back my truck, and I think I'll just ride it as I would normally do. I bought an after market exhaust but the service personnel at the dealership recommend leaving the factory exhaust until the 600 mile mark but I want to put on the exhaust already. Any input is greatly appreciated. TIA
if your not tuning/flashing then you can add the new exhaust now
Hard break in, to know if it breaks or not 😁
The only thing you dont want to do is lug the engine or bounce on the rev limiter constantly. If you dont do that you'll be fine.
I would sooner just follow the manual guidelines as they design and spend millions on R&D. And like seen recently on some channels with new bikes thrashed during break in the manufacture won't cover it, this was BMW. If it does go bang during the break in period, they will plug it in and see whats been going on, then not repair it. Up to the individual, but I know what path im taking with my brand new ZH2
I never see the giveaways on hear..
I beat the crap out of my 2019 klx 250 hard since 0 miles. About 6500 hard miles on it now and it runs perfect. Doesn’t even burn any oil 🤷🏻♂️
You say that you "beat the crap out of my bike". But is that mean the same for others?
That is all about what you mean. You can ride a bike hard, but be smooth and slow with the controls. And it is OK.
Another speed demon, think that riding hard, is kicking it in to gears. Popping the clutch out hard, and hammering the throttle as fast as possible. Your bike can be perfect, and the other bike is a wreck.
You have to give more details, if you are giving tips like this. Or the tip is doing more bad, then good.
What about when u rebuild the engine?
Or turbo the engine ?
Go much more easy, and be smooth… No kangaroo riding. the new bikes are tested and run before you get it. The new parts are not used at all.
You had my trust until I saw the hipster with the man bun on the google machine with the mood lighting in the background.
New bike you need to break in on alot of stuff. Knowing how the bike behave, how you control it. Bedding the brake pads and rotors, new tyres.
Wait, ...you can buy a bike new!?!? ...I might have to try that sometime.
I bought a grom brand new after breaking it in it had a misfire lol , unfortunately it was totaled
How did you break a unbreakable bike? It's a Honda?
fz6r in the beginning lets goo lol
@@YammeNoob nice try
i have a brand new r3 and was going very light on it in the beginning. i’m only at 400 miles. today i hit 11k rpm’s just for a couple seconds never consecutively. is that alright?
Ofcourse i will follow the manufacturers manual, manufacturer wants your bike to be broke in properly for longevity of the motor to keep consumers satisfaction so that being said holding their good standing reputation for the company. So follow their recommendations and manuals.
versys 300 would like to have a word with the service manual, no way you can keep that thing under 4000 rpm unless you literally do 600 miles at 35mph.
some may say the best way to break in a new bike is as 5 min long burnout in the parking lot of the dealer, dont forget the test that redline, after all you paid for it!
That is going to be really expensive 5 min. Do you really think the dealer is going to pay for the damaged, after 1-5 years when you are trying to sell that wreck?
@@Gismo3333 its a joke bro chill 🤣
I'm not saying nothing about a "Hard Break-in" because I don't know.....BUT.....I'd go Soft-Ly.....
Tks. much.