Bob, Not only are you a master luthier but also give more free info on guitars than anyone else out there. Your humor is great, it's really appreciated by those of us who "have a friend" that makes so many mistakes. Keep it up!
Paul, Thanks for the compliments. I did not shim the fretboard but rather leveled and re-crowned it before doing a new fretjob. It doesn't matter if you use hide or regular glue. Some might argue with that. No glue in the joint just the bolts. Happy Building!
Bob, I just wanted to say thank you very much for uploading your videos. I've been working on my first guitar build and just came across a very stressful situation. My neck angle was completely screwed up (too high) but thanks to your informative videos, I was able to follow the proper steps and correct it today. I'll be sure to share your channel as much as possible. Thanks again!
@66DX7 Glad you are enjoying the tips. The neck angle and the top radius are not very pronounced so I can get away with no wedge. I like to level the fretboard afterwards though.
Yes, VERY valuable information! You're both a great guy and luthier, I'm happy to say. Your luthierie instruction is top notch; I just felt that the sports format wasn't you, even if you do love football. Your work and videos are terrific. I need to learn to reset guitar necks as well as you. Thanks and God Bless!
This was to be a terrific video by a great and knowledgable luthier regarding a relevant topic, and it was diminished by an misguided and corny attempt to be cute rather than clear and straightforward. Don't ever do this again. Thank you!
The only part of the delivery that bothered me was the replay and reverse angle nonsense at the beginning. I'm curious about why you choose to remove all the frets. Most luthiers seem to remove only the frets needed to steam out the glue on a dovetail joint. Also wanted to say thanks for all the videos you post. Very informative.
I like to see a gap between a straightedge and the top of the bridge of about 1/16th when the straightedge is placed along the fretboard and extended over the bridge. Hope this helps.
Thank you for taking the time to record and share your methods. Clearly much was not said, but I must ask: What measurements were made before and after?
Hi, Bob. I just stumbled across your channel, and am very glad I did. Some great information, and plenty of knowledge to take in. I wanted to know if you could pass on any advice for looking to begin learning luthiering. Thank you, Dustin
Hi, Thankyou for sharing your tips. I was just wondering how you can glue the fretboard to the body without putting a wedge between the body and the fretboard.
Thanks for the very useful video. I have removed a neck using StewMac's heating rod and neck removal tool. Worked really well! I'm having trouble shaving the neck though. Have used Lee Valley Tools' file sharpening jig and 1000/4000 hone but I still have trouble shaving the mahogany. Any suggestions for how to take that material off?
I use a spokeshave to shape the neck but you could also just use a rasp. To finesse the neck joint angle you can use a sharp chisel and sandpaper like shown in my online course about neck resetting. obrienguitars.com/courses/neck-reset
What, if anything, can be done to prevent the additional fretboard falloff created when the neck is reset (not a big a deal on a standard acoustic guitar, but it would seem to be a concern on a cutaway)? Could the LMI Neck Joint Jig and a router be used to make this adjustment on an existing guitar?
Have you considered modifying your bolt on system to something like the Taylor NT system? That would appear to make a neck reset almost as easy as on many Electric Guitars with bolt on necks and also "solve" the problem of fretboard fall away. (and also be something the LMI Jig could be modified to do)
Hi Bob, I love your videos and thoroughly enjoy watching them. I have some, but limited building experience from working for Larrivée guitars and having done an apprenticeship as a cabinet maker many years ago. I am not building at the moment, because I play and teach guitar too much, so watching your videos feels like keeping in touch with this beautiful craft. I was wondering: did you have a gap between the tongue of the fingerboard and the body, once the neck was reset? How would you glue that down, without 'bending' the end of the fingerboard? Did you put thin veneer under it? My second question was, why you removed all the frets? I remember seeing s.o. doing a neck repair at Larrivée, and he just took out the 14th fret, and drilled 2 holes through the fret slot, in oder to get hot water down to the dovetail. Is it case of "many roads lead to Rome", or was the other person purely wrong in doing what they did? I appreciate your videos a lot, keep it up! I am looking forward to hearing from you! Sebastian (UK)
Sebastian, Thanks for watching my videos. I am glad you are finding them useful. I didn't get a gap on this one by the fingerboard. I also removed all the frets because I was going to do a re-fret anyway. So, I just got that out of the way to start with.
i disagree with the assertion this is boring subject matter. anyone searching for neck reset video and being directed to this particular video is in need of information and/or luthier tips. i doubt that individual would find this boring. as for the lame play by play overdubbing, well as you said there is still valuable info
Hi Robert, I had a neck reset on an early Taylor bolt on. I could achieve the correct angle but when the string tension was applied it lost it. Seems that the bolt holes in the neck block were worn and didn't fit tight with the bolts. How would you correct that?
Hard for me to say without visually inspecting the instrument myself. Sounds like there could be a separation of the back from the heel block. I would start there.
it seems to me that a lot of material was removed from the point where the neck meets the body of the guitar, shortening the distance between the nut and saddle; doesn't it throw off the intonation?
As you may have come to understand in the 4 years since your comment, the process the luthier was using here removes almost no material at the top of the heel where it meets the top of the guitar, leaving nut to saddle distance unaffected- most of the material is removed from the bottom of the heel, adjusting the neck angle upward so action can be lowered without having to shave the bridge and/or leave the break angle of the strings over the saddle too low.
Luthier takes the ball at the 50, breaks the tackle of Party Pooper, runs through Killjoy and Fuss-Budget. He puts a spin move on Wet Blanket, stiff arms a museum piece and leaps over Persona Non Grata before plowing a troglodyte on the 1 yard line for a touchdown!
I liked the football theme; i have hosed up a lot of work with a plane; i like your term. I also like the use of the chisel; nice chisel by the way and great manipulation. I like the pipet method too! There are a few criticisms though (maybe i missed it) but did you put a shim under the fret board? Also did you use hide glue or titebond under the fret board? (does it matter?) Did you apply glue at the neck joint? (i guess the bolt is enough?) You must have a steady hand because i would never remove the fret board without some kind of protection on the sound board! Anyway, i appreciate your work!!! hope i dont come off too snobish (if i do then it is probably just jealousy!)
Wouldn't a bullnose plane(with the top taken off) been a better choice for your first passes on the heel (after chiselling the relief?) - you could reach the blade the complete length of the heel.
I came back a day later and watched it, trying to ignore the sports announcer. This is not a boring subject to someone who is trying to learn how to do it, or to just see how it is done.
If you glue the fretboard extension tight to the guitar body with the neck reset, it will be at a slight angle to the rest of the fretboard. Is that small difference permissible? I was waiting for you to explain how that difference could be corrected by shimming or some other means, BTW, I enjoyed the play by play.
I like for my fretboards to have a 64th to a 32nd slop down from the neck to body joint to the soundhole. Depending on how much neck correction you need to do you might indeed need to shim the fretboard extension. Another option would be to pull the frets and level the fretboard. A lot of time guitars neck new frets in addition to the neck reset. Glad to hear you enjoyed the video.
Robert, these guys should learn to relax and if they had bothered to check out your other excellent videos they would realise that you only did this one as a light hearted way of explaining the proceedure. Why are some people so serious all the time ? Are they really unable to see the bigger picture ? Here in Ireland we like to have a laugh now and then !! Thanks again for giving us your excellent tuition for free here on you tube
Not sure you'll get this, since this was posted years ago, but what is this guitar. I am looking for an acoustic like this. I love the body style, Good video. Thanks.
@@marklaesch6273 You will also have a gap. It depends on how much angle you needed to change on how large the gap will be. Michael Bashkin covers this process in his excellent video on how to do a neck reset. obrienguitars.com/courses/neck-reset
Thank you so much Bob, you have stopped me destroying a 1991 Epiphone 'Don Everly'. I could do this work but It's not economical for that particular beast. I'll get it as near as I can with the truss rod and saddle and wave it a sad farewell. Also had to return a 'Granados' thin bodied classical with all kinds of pedigree claims, both of these have gold plated machine heads, which you Americans refer to as 'Lipstick on a pig'. Both of these were really beautiful instruments and not especially cheap, [$580 the Granados], all the bits were good; I just fail to understand why the factories put them together so badly, it takes the same time to do it right! To all readers, if you are buying a guitar get somebody who knows about them to advise you; the guy trying to sell it to you might not have your best interests at heart. PS The football commentary didn't work for me.
There wasn't enough to worry about on this guitar. The guitar also got a refret so the fretboard was leveled and radiused. If you have a more pronounced drop off from the neck joint to the soundhole then you will need to shim under the fretboard.
Question is..... with the mortise and tenon joint.... I know you glue the fingerboard.... what about the neck tenon joint? Does any glue go on it ? And if so where?
a buddy of mine was drunk and fell on my guitar leaning up against the wall and it cracked the wood in half so i used some elmer glue and clamped it back together about 30 hours i hiope everything still lines up ok
Football crap got old.... very quick... he randomly pulled all the pegs out of the bridge without marking them to go in the same hole they were fitted for... but I'll give the benefit of the doubt just in case he was going with new pins but it would have been nice to have it explained if that was the case ,instead of foosball talk.. other than that it looks like he did a very good good job...
Well it is not easy to fix a guitar. I have a whymann and son guitar parlor that is cheap, that I put a back on and well blind blake would be happy. Not sure if it has steel in the neck. Think that and electric blanket would work around the neck would work if it was on for a few months. Think that you should get foodstamps for this .Yes this is a great video for someone on welfare
Loose the football theme and treat us like adults with an IQ above room temperature. I also think a French Dovetail would have made a better presentation. I would have done some work on the FB extension (shim or trim) to make sure there is no hump at the body/neck joint. I guess you can fudge that part when you do the refret, as I have done on cheap import guitars with this issue that are not worth extensive repair work and the bill I would charge. Where is Red Rocks College? by Denver? Duh!
I thought this was going to contain some really valuable information, but the blow by blow football announcer crap drove me crazy. You had a chance and sucked.
Of the hundreds of free videos I have on youtube this seems to be the one that folks dislike the most. It was football season so I was just trying to keep it interesting. Looks like I failed in that attempt. However, there is still info worth learning in this as well as my other videos. Happy Building!
This is just one of literally hundreds of videos I have put out. Please try watching a few others as I am share you will find them useful if you are a builder.
I simply couldn't watch this whole video because the corny football announcer stuff was so annoying. On top of that, the question and response thing done by the same person was just too much. Why don't you simply act like a professional luthier and show the procedure without all the other crap? In addition, you imply that you always have to remove the frets to re-set a neck. You only have to remove one fret with a dovetail neck and none with a bolt-on neck unless you just have to replace the frets but that's a different story.
+Bob Miller Of the hundreds of videos I have on youtube this seems to be the one that folks dislike the most. It was football season so I was just trying to keep it interesting. Looks like I failed in that attempt. However, there is still info worth learning in this as well as my other videos. The guitar in this video was due a fret job so that is why I pulled all the frets. You are correct that this is not necessary for just a routine neck re-set. Happy Building!
Bob, Not only are you a master luthier but also give more free info on guitars than anyone else out there. Your humor is great, it's really appreciated by those of us who "have a friend" that makes so many mistakes. Keep it up!
Thank you Ted and happy building!
Paul,
Thanks for the compliments. I did not shim the fretboard but rather leveled and re-crowned it before doing a new fretjob. It doesn't matter if you use hide or regular glue. Some might argue with that. No glue in the joint just the bolts. Happy Building!
Thanks for the support. I think the world could use a little more gratitude.
It was football season. What can I say? In between my failed attempt at humor there is still some very valuable FREE information.
Happy Building!
Great viedo, the football thing got old quick, but the info was good.
I agree about the football thing. I almost opted out pretty quickly. I'll bet he won't do it again.
Hope not, I tired of it in the first 20 seconds
great video, and made me happy how you made it related to football, u seem like a happy person, thanks!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. Happy Building!
Bob, I just wanted to say thank you very much for uploading your videos. I've been working on my first guitar build and just came across a very stressful situation. My neck angle was completely screwed up (too high) but thanks to your informative videos, I was able to follow the proper steps and correct it today. I'll be sure to share your channel as much as possible. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching. Glad to hear you were able to make it work.
Wow love it I love every video this one is brilliant great twist on commentary
F the haterz Bob. It's a great instructional video.
Thank you. Glad you found it useful.
Thanks for these tips Bob.
I will reset my old Martin Om Fingerstyle 1.
Thanks Kevin. I agree. When you do this day in and day out like I do you need to find a way to keep it interesting.
Happy Building!
@66DX7 Glad you are enjoying the tips. The neck angle and the top radius are not very pronounced so I can get away with no wedge. I like to level the fretboard afterwards though.
Yes, VERY valuable information! You're both a great guy and luthier, I'm happy to say. Your luthierie instruction is top notch; I just felt that the sports format wasn't you, even if you do love football. Your work and videos are terrific. I need to learn to reset guitar necks as well as you. Thanks and God Bless!
This was to be a terrific video by a great and knowledgable luthier regarding a relevant topic, and it was diminished by an misguided and corny attempt to be cute rather than clear and straightforward. Don't ever do this again. Thank you!
@eryque I removed all the frets because this guitar needed a re-fret as well.
The only part of the delivery that bothered me was the replay and reverse angle nonsense at the beginning.
I'm curious about why you choose to remove all the frets. Most luthiers seem to remove only the frets needed to steam out the glue on a dovetail joint.
Also wanted to say thanks for all the videos you post. Very informative.
Football talk is great, well done for making this humorous and thanks for the expert guide through.
I like to see a gap between a straightedge and the top of the bridge of about 1/16th when the straightedge is placed along the fretboard and extended over the bridge. Hope this helps.
Sure,
That would work and is a good choice.
@orangeguitarmusik Yeah well...I gotta try and find some way to make this stuff interesting. Happy Building!
Thank you for taking the time to record and share your methods. Clearly much was not said, but I must ask: What measurements were made before and after?
Hi, Bob.
I just stumbled across your channel, and am very glad I did. Some great information, and plenty of knowledge to take in. I wanted to know if you could pass on any advice for looking to begin learning luthiering.
Thank you,
Dustin
Thank you an yes. Check out my online guitar building courses available via my website www.obrienguitars.com/courses
Nice vid!
Hi,
Thankyou for sharing your tips. I was just wondering how you can glue the fretboard to the body without putting a wedge between the body and the fretboard.
Thanks for the very useful video. I have removed a neck using StewMac's heating rod and neck removal tool. Worked really well! I'm having trouble shaving the neck though. Have used Lee Valley Tools' file sharpening jig and 1000/4000 hone but I still have trouble shaving the mahogany. Any suggestions for how to take that material off?
I use a spokeshave to shape the neck but you could also just use a rasp. To finesse the neck joint angle you can use a sharp chisel and sandpaper like shown in my online course about neck resetting. obrienguitars.com/courses/neck-reset
What, if anything, can be done to prevent the additional fretboard falloff created when the neck is reset (not a big a deal on a standard acoustic guitar, but it would seem to be a concern on a cutaway)? Could the LMI Neck Joint Jig and a router be used to make this adjustment on an existing guitar?
Have you considered modifying your bolt on system to something like the Taylor NT system? That would appear to make a neck reset almost as easy as on many Electric Guitars with bolt on necks and also "solve" the problem of fretboard fall away. (and also be something the LMI Jig could be modified to do)
I have not. I am happy with my current system.
Sorry you didn't like the theme. It was football season and I was just trying to keep it interesting. Happy Building!
Hi Bob,
I love your videos and thoroughly enjoy watching them. I have some, but limited building experience from working for Larrivée guitars and having done an apprenticeship as a cabinet maker many years ago. I am not building at the moment, because I play and teach guitar too much, so watching your videos feels like keeping in touch with this beautiful craft.
I was wondering: did you have a gap between the tongue of the fingerboard and the body, once the neck was reset? How would you glue that down, without 'bending' the end of the fingerboard? Did you put thin veneer under it?
My second question was, why you removed all the frets? I remember seeing s.o. doing a neck repair at Larrivée, and he just took out the 14th fret, and drilled 2 holes through the fret slot, in oder to get hot water down to the dovetail. Is it case of "many roads lead to Rome", or was the other person purely wrong in doing what they did?
I appreciate your videos a lot, keep it up! I am looking forward to hearing from you!
Sebastian (UK)
Sebastian, Thanks for watching my videos. I am glad you are finding them useful. I didn't get a gap on this one by the fingerboard. I also removed all the frets because I was going to do a re-fret anyway. So, I just got that out of the way to start with.
Sorry you feel that way. This was I guess a failed attempt at trying to make a boring subject somewhat interesting. Happy Building!
i disagree with the assertion this is boring subject matter. anyone searching for neck reset video and being directed to this particular video is in need of information and/or luthier tips. i doubt that individual would find this boring. as for the lame play by play overdubbing, well as you said there is still valuable info
8 years later and I enjoyed it. haha Thank you for the video.
Boring? Not boring in the least. Thought you're a luthier..
Robert, can a dovetail be done in a similar fashion by relieving the shoulders? or does it have to be 100% flush all across? thanks
+seasonedtoker The same process can be used.
@matthewngl Unless I se the instrument it is hard for me to offer advice.
Hi Robert, I had a neck reset on an early Taylor bolt on. I could achieve the correct angle but when the string tension was applied it lost it. Seems that the bolt holes in the neck block were worn and didn't fit tight with the bolts. How would you correct that?
Hard for me to say without visually inspecting the instrument myself. Sounds like there could be a separation of the back from the heel block. I would start there.
it seems to me that a lot of material was removed from the point where the neck meets the body of the guitar, shortening the distance between the nut and saddle; doesn't it throw off the intonation?
As you may have come to understand in the 4 years since your comment, the process the luthier was using here removes almost no material at the top of the heel where it meets the top of the guitar, leaving nut to saddle distance unaffected- most of the material is removed from the bottom of the heel, adjusting the neck angle upward so action can be lowered without having to shave the bridge and/or leave the break angle of the strings over the saddle too low.
Luthier takes the ball at the 50, breaks the tackle of Party Pooper, runs through Killjoy and Fuss-Budget. He puts a spin move on Wet Blanket, stiff arms a museum piece and leaps over
Persona Non Grata before plowing a troglodyte on the 1 yard line for a touchdown!
I liked the football theme; i have hosed up a lot of work with a plane; i like your term.
I also like the use of the chisel; nice chisel by the way and great manipulation.
I like the pipet method too!
There are a few criticisms though (maybe i missed it) but did you put a shim under the fret board?
Also did you use hide glue or titebond under the fret board? (does it matter?)
Did you apply glue at the neck joint? (i guess the bolt is enough?)
You must have a steady hand because i would never remove the fret board without some kind of protection on the sound board!
Anyway, i appreciate your work!!! hope i dont come off too snobish (if i do then it is probably just jealousy!)
Are you removing the frets in order to keep the untensioned neck from back bowing?
I am removing the frets because the guitar also needed a re-fret in addition to the neck reset.
Very good video. Thanks, Blue Max Stringed Instrument Repair
Wouldn't a bullnose plane(with the top taken off) been a better choice for your first passes on the heel (after chiselling the relief?) - you could reach the blade the complete length of the heel.
I came back a day later and watched it, trying to ignore the sports announcer. This is not a boring subject to someone who is trying to learn how to do it, or to just see how it is done.
Hi, I have an extremely old classical guitar with no truss rod and it has a bow, Is there anyway to fix it?
very bien...
If you glue the fretboard extension tight to the guitar body with the neck reset, it will be at a slight angle to the rest of the fretboard. Is that small difference permissible? I was waiting for you to explain how that difference could be corrected by shimming or some other means, BTW, I enjoyed the play by play.
I like for my fretboards to have a 64th to a 32nd slop down from the neck to body joint to the soundhole. Depending on how much neck correction you need to do you might indeed need to shim the fretboard extension. Another option would be to pull the frets and level the fretboard. A lot of time guitars neck new frets in addition to the neck reset. Glad to hear you enjoyed the video.
Thanks
Thank you.
please tell me what you used to fill the cracks?
+dino bogris CA glue.
Robert, these guys should learn to relax and if they had bothered to check out your other excellent videos they would realise that you only did this one as a light hearted way of explaining the proceedure. Why are some people so serious all the time ? Are they really unable to see the bigger picture ? Here in Ireland we like to have a laugh now and then !! Thanks again for giving us your excellent tuition for free here on you tube
skosh!! I love it
Not sure you'll get this, since this was posted years ago, but what is this guitar. I am looking for an acoustic like this. I love the body style, Good video. Thanks.
This is an OM with a Florentine cutaway. I made this model years ago.
@@OBrienGuitars It's a beautiful guitar.
So no shim under the tongue going over the fretboard? Just clamp it down for fallaway? What if the large end of the gap is excessive ?
This one didn't need a shim but if the gap is larger then I make a shim.
OBrienGuitars I’m just trying to learn about neck reset process on acoustic guitars. So how do you change the heel angle and not have a gap?
@@marklaesch6273 You will also have a gap. It depends on how much angle you needed to change on how large the gap will be. Michael Bashkin covers this process in his excellent video on how to do a neck reset. obrienguitars.com/courses/neck-reset
thanks!!!
Thank you so much Bob, you have stopped me destroying a 1991 Epiphone 'Don Everly'. I could do this work but It's not economical for that particular beast. I'll get it as near as I can with the truss rod and saddle and wave it a sad farewell. Also had to return a 'Granados' thin bodied classical with all kinds of pedigree claims, both of these have gold plated machine heads, which you Americans refer to as 'Lipstick on a pig'. Both of these were really beautiful instruments and not especially cheap, [$580 the Granados], all the bits were good; I just fail to understand why the factories put them together so badly, it takes the same time to do it right!
To all readers, if you are buying a guitar get somebody who knows about them to advise you; the guy trying to sell it to you might not have your best interests at heart.
PS The football commentary didn't work for me.
Is there a reason you didn’t deal with the fall away of the fretboard on the body?
There wasn't enough to worry about on this guitar. The guitar also got a refret so the fretboard was leveled and radiused. If you have a more pronounced drop off from the neck joint to the soundhole then you will need to shim under the fretboard.
Thank you.
Question is..... with the mortise and tenon joint.... I know you glue the fingerboard.... what about the neck tenon joint? Does any glue go on it ? And if so where?
The neck joint is not glued. It is just bolted on.
@@OBrienGuitars at what point should the bolts get reinstalled and tightened?
@@casey7783 When the neck goes back on the guitar.
I like the dialogue. It reminds me of Madden.
Jeepers ...the sports joke is great, but i want to learn about guitar building, thats all.
a buddy of mine was drunk and fell on my guitar leaning up against the wall and it cracked the wood in half so i used some elmer glue and clamped it back together about 30 hours i hiope everything still lines up ok
Please try again in English!
Who is Bob?
bob is short for robert :)
It's "lose" not "loose" Lighten up. The advice is free, if you don't like it don't watch.
I have found most who have an interest in this don’t like sports announcers. Including me
Football crap got old.... very quick... he randomly pulled all the pegs out of the bridge without marking them to go in the same hole they were fitted for... but I'll give the benefit of the doubt just in case he was going with new pins but it would have been nice to have it explained if that was the case ,instead of foosball talk.. other than that it looks like he did a very good good job...
how about losing 3rd person dialog and football nonsense. It would be a good and informative video
good information. bad delivery.
I agree, great information....horrible delivery...
Well it is not easy to fix a guitar. I have a whymann and son guitar parlor that is cheap, that I put a back on and well blind blake would be happy. Not sure if it has steel in the neck. Think that and electric blanket would work around the neck would work if it was on for a few months. Think that you should get foodstamps for this .Yes this is a great video for someone on welfare
Loose the football theme and treat us like adults with an IQ above room temperature. I also think a French Dovetail would have made a better presentation. I would have done some work on the FB extension (shim or trim) to make sure there is no hump at the body/neck joint. I guess you can fudge that part when you do the refret, as I have done on cheap import guitars with this issue that are not worth extensive repair work and the bill I would charge. Where is Red Rocks College? by Denver? Duh!
Robert, I appreciate you trying to teach this, but I had to shut it off after a few minutes as being too obnoxious to listen to.
Way TOO CHEESEY...LATER
Goofy. Not professional. This is Luthery not a sports game . Can’t imagine what you were thinking.
Lighten up!
I thought this was going to contain some really valuable information, but the blow by blow football announcer crap drove me crazy. You had a chance and sucked.
Of the hundreds of free videos I have on youtube this seems to be the one that folks dislike the most. It was football season so I was just trying to keep it interesting. Looks like I failed in that attempt. However, there is still info worth learning in this as well as my other videos. Happy Building!
Couldn't handle the football reference. Sorry.
No one cares if you like football. Couldn't get past first min!
This is just one of literally hundreds of videos I have put out. Please try watching a few others as I am share you will find them useful if you are a builder.
I simply couldn't watch this whole video because the corny football announcer stuff was so annoying. On top of that, the question and response thing done by the same person was just too much. Why don't you simply act like a professional luthier and show the procedure without all the other crap? In addition, you imply that you always have to remove the frets to re-set a neck. You only have to remove one fret with a dovetail neck and none with a bolt-on neck unless you just have to replace the frets but that's a different story.
+Bob Miller Of the hundreds of videos I have on youtube this seems to be the one that folks dislike the most. It was football season so I was just trying to keep it interesting. Looks like I failed in that attempt. However, there is still info worth learning in this as well as my other videos. The guitar in this video was due a fret job so that is why I pulled all the frets. You are correct that this is not necessary for just a routine neck re-set. Happy Building!
Way too much BS...just get to the job for crying out loud. I'm not playing along pretending that a guitar is a football player, okay?
It was football season. What can I say? In between my failed attempt at humor there is still some very valuable FREE information.
Happy Building!
One of the most tedious videos on TH-cam.
I agree....great info but the football BS is extremely annoying.