LoL, a drummer gathering here ? Add me to the count, hah :) Something very addictive with these videos .. Maybe because he is so confident and knowing his thing .. this shows. Loving this channel!
I thought that too, but was wondering if that's attributable more to the difference in angle that he's holding the guitar at relative to the microphone. Especially given the fact that he said he didn't hear much of a change.
I thought each string was sounding a little more distinct/ individual when he switched to the plate. Nice sounding guit-box. Must play much better than before.
Being a guitar repairman myself, I cannot emphasize enough how much does it mean to me to hear "I have to psysch myself up for this" from a master of your level!
The only thing that I worry about is not being a guitar repairman and attempting a neck reset with my carpentry tools fresh out of the truck claw hammer chisels chalk line you know a standard guitar repair tools
I learn so much in every video👍. As a bonus @ 18:56 that I should "use a bone saw to remove the skull to access the brain". I tried using a potato peeler and it was taking forever.
I have no idea why I'm watching this, most work I've done on my guitars was to solder a loose ground wire, but I've watched almost every video on this channel and it's absolutely mesmerizing... Truly an art. Keep up the good work man!!
Can't thank you enough for being so thorough and patient. And exacting. And knowledgeable. And caring. And loveable. Yes. Loveable! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!
Me, too. I subscribe to 30+ channels for everything from favorite bands, to rig rundowns, to luthier work, etc.; and Ted’s videos are always the most satisfying. Great stuff.
My new guitar had some sort of glue on the fretboard between the nut & 1st fret when I got it. Thanks to your vids, Ted, I just grabbed a new, sharp razor blade and scraped it clean without a hiccup. Not my first time to scrape a fretboard so I wasn't so apprehensive about doing it and not screwing up. Thanks, Ted! 🙏👍
Using the “sealing iron” is genius. Just the right size and much reasonable than anything at specialty luthier supply places. Have placed my order online, for whenever they’re back in stock in Canada! Good video, Ted!
@@jonipaananen9304 good tip, although I had no trouble tracking one down searching for “sealing iron”. The supplier of model RC aircraft stuff turned out to be someone I’d used before, as the site recognised me.
Back in the day, those irons were used to tack down dry mount tissue on the back of photographs before mounting them on illustration board in order to frame them, hence the name "tacking iron".
This is one of the most comprehensive and instructional video on neck resetting I've ever seen. And I have seen paid for 'instructional' videos. Excellent sir! Thank you for your generous allotment of your time and knowledge! I truly appreciate it. This is one of my absolute favourite TH-cam channels. Hope we can see them for many years to come!
I've filed the saddle on my 1974 D-28 almost as low as the one in this video and it's obvious that it's due fir a neck reset. I like a medium action but between the 8th and 14th fret it's become noticeably higher. Hard to find someone to trust with this work. You do a great job.
You taught me something in this video about one of my Guild acoustics my family has owned for 47 years. My father gifted me his 1972 Guild D-35. Always read it was Guilds version of the Martin D-18. But you stated the D-18 has back binding, my Guild does not. I was not familiar with the Martin D-16 model My Guild D-35 looks EXACTLY like this D-16. I mean its spitting image. Thanks for this important discovery
Thank you, professor Woodford, for another excellent class on advanced luthiery . It was great. However, sometimes it feels a little like cheating, getting so much information relatively free. In any event, I greatly appreciate the efforts you make to educate us. You do a very fine job.
What a fine job. So well ordered, confident and competent. I explained the enormity, risk and complexity of the task to my Girlfriend so she could understand how well you had done. That truss rod jiggery pokery was a definite bonus complication I did not anticipate!
I neither play nor repair musical instruments, but after a lifetime of precision work, I appreciate the efforts of a master craftsman. I worked part time for Lee Valley for a number of years after retirement, at least until my tool collection was complete.
Informative video, thanks. 11:00 - That neck pocket, with the sound bound interconnected, looks like a nightmare to work on. When I first learnt neck resetting (25 years ago now), I was taught by an old European Luthier (so Spanish/Classical constructions). He always said the heel cap (that slab of, generally, rosewood at the base of the heel) was the designed method/way in to the neck joint (for resetting etc). As well as removing some of the back binding. He would doggedly figure a method that worked around that (rather than applying steam into the guitar). He found it a faster and more 'invisible/less intrusive technique. I would love to have seen him scratching his head over this Martin neck joint ;) He'd probably scowl at a heel cap that was decoration ..over being put there as a 'secret door' for the Luthier :)
I'm only 10 minutes in & your video is the best & most detailed explanation of a dovetail neck re-set that I've ever seen on YT!!!!!!! Much appreciated & subbed!!!!!!!
What a fantastic instructional video, my friend. You are a born teacher. I on the other hand went to teacher's college about an hour from you and moved to Alberta for my first job, only to find out that I am born to be anything but a teacher. You're awesome.
Don't want to be that guy but... Man Imperial measurement sounds like hard work . Thank someone we changed to Metric in 1970 in Australia . Love your work , always a great watch and very informative.
Generally it really isn't. The main difference is metric divides by 10 and imperial mostly divides by 2. If you work with computers you can probably do powers and multiples of 2 and 16 in your head without thinking about it. If not, and you use imperial, you still learn to divide or multiply by 2, 4, and 8 just as easily as 10. Edit: I'm not one of those idiots that says metric is bad. Of course it isn't. But having grown up with both systems, they really aren't much different, and there are some areas (like carpentry) where imperial can have some actual advantages. It all depends on what you are doing and familiarity with the system. If you aren't familiar with the imperial system, yea, it is going to look hard, no argument. But if you know imperial and aren't familiar with metric, it can seem hard too. (I know the metric-only people will find that hard to imagine, but it really does happen for some people.)
I grew up with the metric system but got to learn imperial measurements during my apprenticeship, their both great an easy to learn an if i can learn them anyone can.
Tsd---as a joirneyman nkuthier/repairman, I still have so much respect for the detailed and so true professional work that you do--in front Of a world wide audience, One of my heroes no BS. You set a goal and hard standard for us ti emulate. It is hard work, but at the same time an art. Few of us will work to equal your example. What a gift to give. Thank you.
35 pulls - good to know for .040 in of wood removed. I'm just about ready to fit the neck to my first guitar. I tend to get concerned when I have a conception that something should be done "quick" and doesn't go that way. I'll try to be calm (HA!) when I do my pulls after watching your video. Thanks for this.
An exraordinarily elegant exposition of the dangers of neck resets generally and this particular configuration especially. As an amateur, I'll probably never see this in life but there's so much to be learnt about the pitfalls involved. When you don't have much experience, things throw you easily. I restored a 1939 Harmony and ended up cutting the fingerboard at the body joint because I couldn't get a spatula through past the 13th fret, Reason - the neck had lifted so much the top of the dovetail was impinging beneath the fingerboard, but ABOVE the soundboard. I should have tried a razor saw and cut the protruding dovetail top. You do't know what you don't know, etc.
At 5:15 - the “neck reset formula.” I KNEW there had to be a geometric way to calculate how much to remove from the heel - this was exactly what I was looking for!
The Coverite (other brands exist also) sealing iron is available at most hobby shops and is used to shrink coverings for model aircraft. Coverite is a brand of covering material.
7/64" is my preferred height at the 12th. Not picking on you, as I realize the customer was complaining about the action/feel of the guitar, but I see a lot of repairmen who want the action at a certain height, probably because most people who play don't even know what their action is to begin with. But action is specific to the player, and I tend to try to get people to play for me before I set up their guitar if I can. Some fellow who, like me, tends to hit the strings really hard at times will need higher action than what most tend to think of. Not that I have anywhere near the experience you have, mind you. Fantastic work, as always!
Love the diagram you made ,ted. Martin did some goofy stuff to their builds sometimes, and this was one !! Love your math formula you used also ! Excellent neck reset ! Thanks Ted !
Great video, loved it. I hope my work is as professional as yours some day. I just finished a 000-28 kit and you answered a question I had while reading Dick Boak's instructions written during the period of this long one way truss rod. He states the initial neck set must be done before the fingerboard is glued on but he didnt say why. I can imagine how happy the workers were when the two way came and they didnt have to mess with this at final setting and neck glue ups. The two way also doesn't require a shim to be added so that's less work too.
More great stuff, Ted. I really, really enjoy your videos; but I’ve also learned so much from watching them. Along the way, I’ve assembled a pretty good sized kit of luthier tools and done some really nice set up jobs, as well as minor repairs, using the knowledge gained from your videos. Great stuff and very satisfying. Thanks again!
I had a Washburn acoustic with a head stock crack well I watched you deal with this kind of repair....I just did what you did to fix it.....and what you know I fixed it just wanna say......thanx
I just bought a Martin Special 16 in August 2020 and this was a very interesting video. The Special 16 as far as I know is basically a very slightly modified D16e. It's made in Nazareth, PA its got a glossed sitka spruce top and having looked into it the only difference I can see is that my Special has Satin Rosewood back and sides where the D16 has glossed back and sides. I guess what I'm saying is its nice to see how the 16's age now that I have one. I feel like the 16's are a little underappreciated. Of course I'm biased now but they are great guitars. I couldnt afford a D45, D35, D28, D18...But I couldnt be more pleased with my Special 16 Rosewood Dreadnought. Ive played an Ibanez Artwood for 5 years and it was a great first guitar. So happy to have stepped into the Martin world!
The metal bridgeplate saver is a tone killer, you want the ball ends resting on the maple bridgeplate for the bright maple to ring through the spruce mahogany or rosewood b&s.
I definitely hear a difference between no plate saver & plate saver. With the plate saver, the guitar sounded brighter. Very nice neck reset Ted. You do fine work & are a good teacher of Lutherie.
Thank you for giving some measurements in mm. Watching it in Europe, I sometimes have a problem understanding if "action of 1/1000inch" is good or not. Thanks for all of your knowledge you give for free 😉 I've learned a lot from you!
Thanks for explaining the whole trussrod under the soundboard situation. I believe the truss rod is so far back to allow its pressure to work on the infamous "neck joint bump", which is a common defect on acoustic guitars.
Great job! I'm amazed at how you make a complicated process sound so easy. And also, I think the metal pin plate made the guitar sound a tad bit brighter than the first video (if it's not because you recorded in a different place)
I've been using the PlateMate for around 6 months. At the installation I started using TiSonix titanium bridge pins. I like the combo sound. My dead Elixers started breathing, lol. I use it on my Martin HD-35.
Love the vids. I have a 1990 Martin D62 ( d18 w maple back n sides ). It needs a neck reset. I am in Brazil and shopping for a luthier to do the work. There are alot of talented craftsmen here but little experience with Martins. Are there any questions I should ask or info that I can pass to them. That truss rod situation seems a bit tricky to someone not expecting it.
Why do these martins do that? My Martin has significant fret ware but really only the “B” string on the “G” note/8-9 frets. It’s causing some buzzing. But I play through or around it.I was sorta willed the guitar from my uncle who taught me how to play. When I got it. It had very little fret ware. But in just the five years that I’ve owned it. I’ve managed to grind a divot in the frets. I have a few other acoustic guitars and less expensive ones and have had them for a lot more years. The frets aren’t nearly as worn down as on my Martin
So informative as always thanks. Regarding the truss rod, on my 2002 HD28 it sits further forward, but not nearly as far as this guitar. It seems the 90s the moved it back behind the tone bar as you said, and it's only a 1 way rod. On my newer 2020 OM, it sits even further back, and is now a 2 way truss rod, likely to address the soundboard interference issue, and also to keep nosy people like me from messing with it.
Some guitar shops that have a luthier or technician on their payroll, will do setups themselves on the more valuable instruments that they have in their shops. I did this job for a while and the guitars just sell much easier, if they feel and play better. Martin guitars usually have a relatively high action (2,5 mm - 3,0 mm or even more, e-E on 12th), so it's totally possible that some work has been done when the guitar was still "brand new",...some of the instruments hang there for years and nobody will buy them. However,...If I would have to remove basically the whole saddle to achieve a playable action, I would consider it a faulty guitar, send it back to the distribuierter and just request a new one. Nice job btw.
Ah Ted, you made my day. Actually, to my ears the neck plate made a huge difference - much brighter and more crisp note definition. Then again my ears are crap. Could have been position in the room etc, Don't want to speak for everyone but I suspect a lot of us would love if these were even longer. I've seen them all and I know you don't like to repeat stuff too much but if you had made this multi-part and had gone deeper into each aspect I think it would be well received. That way you could post multiple times a week or just one repair aspect each over a few weeks. Might be a way to free up some time for you. Selfishly I'd just like more. Like many have said there is something captivating and soothing about these vids. You're a natural. Anyway, thanks again.
I watch all your videos, thanks Ted. I regret I didn't chose that type of skill teaching...I'm a teacher but English and in France... I own a 000-15M and I don't know who would do a job like you do if I ever needed it (started late so...). Amazing craft. 🎶🎶🎶
I know this is a nit picky comment, but Martin has been using truss rods since the 30’s. Just non adjustable truss rods. It always bugs me when people say a guitar doesn’t have a truss rod, just because they can’t stick a wrench in there and change the neck relief. I like your videos btw!
Another great video! I also think the bridge saver makes a slightly brighter tone, but either way it’s a nice Martin. I have a Seagull rustic (Canadian!!) and that’s probably the best guitar I will ever own as a cowboy chord strummer...thanks the great info!
Thanks, I’m riveted.My ‘77 D28 got refret a couple years ago,new oversized bridge, New saddle and nut, neck reset. Now I can slip paper behind heel and under bridge corners SIGH.
I recently did a neck reset on a 3 year old Martin. It was one of the more interesting jobs I had to do, because it was basically a new guitar and the fret board projection with no string tension was actually pretty good,...but under tension the top came out very high, which is not a good thing and I doubt that this guitar will survive to celebrate it's 35th birthday. I had to take this into consideration, when I did the neck reset and the action is pretty good now,...not quite sure for how long, but the customer wanted to do it anyways. They still use this white glue btw,...but I got the neck out with pretty minimal collateral damage.
Am I correct in thinking that a neck reset will always have an effect on intonation? It appeared, but wasn't shown, that our illustrious host did some work on the new saddle for intonation, but the original saddle was just a standard saddle.
The neck is pivoting on a point so theoretically it shouldn't. In practice though, usually the high action and forward rotation of the neck has eaten away some of the compensation so it often intonates better when it's done. I try and get them to nicely as possible with saddle adjustments.
Added puzzle extra ... are we paying attention? In one of the last videos you joked about "self-trepanation," I think it was, on your basement ductwork. And listening very, very carefully to the radio was playing a little a little snippet (no joke there) on trepanning. Subtle! Makes me wonder if there are other Easter eggs scattered about your vids. Oh, and great piece on the Martin.
He’s the Bob Ross of guitar repair......and I mean that as a compliment. I think I’ve watched every video. I’ve learned so much.....and I’m a drummer!
How would anyone take a comparison to Bob Ross as an insult?
happy little Martins
Gary - You and me both! Hooked drummers.
Love this channel!
LoL, a drummer gathering here ? Add me to the count, hah :) Something very addictive with these videos .. Maybe because he is so confident and knowing his thing .. this shows. Loving this channel!
We should start a Facebook group... Drummers who are fans of twoodfrd
To my ear it seemed a bit brighter with the plate.
Me too. I had my back turned and that turned me right around as in, what just changed!
I thought that too, but was wondering if that's attributable more to the difference in angle that he's holding the guitar at relative to the microphone. Especially given the fact that he said he didn't hear much of a change.
Same here.
I heard that brightness, but it also seemed that the D and G string mids came through better. But, I wear hearing aids.
I thought each string was sounding a little more distinct/ individual when he switched to the plate. Nice sounding guit-box. Must play much better than before.
Being a guitar repairman myself, I cannot emphasize enough how much does it mean to me to hear "I have to psysch myself up for this" from a master of your level!
The only thing that I worry about is not being a guitar repairman and attempting a neck reset with my carpentry tools fresh out of the truck claw hammer chisels chalk line you know a standard guitar repair tools
@@arlenmargolin1650 A real pro would use a pneumatic hammer, and oxy-acetylene torch to provide heat.
@@qua7771Based guitar repair
@@qua7771 Thor neck reset
22:54 @@arlenmargolin1650
I learn so much in every video👍. As a bonus @ 18:56 that I should "use a bone saw to remove the skull to access the brain". I tried using a potato peeler and it was taking forever.
A fret saw won't work.
If I ever have to undergo brain surgery I want this guy to do it!
That is a really stellar fingerboard.
I was so bored on a Saturday! then this happened, thank you
I just removed the neck on my mid ‘50s Harmony H62 using a foam cutter and soldering iron, using your videos to help, thanks!!
Another 23 minutes of my life well spent. Thanks for sharing.
Love the way you explain the formula using three different measurement units!!
Don't peek behind the Great Oz's curtain, Toto. LOL
Thanks for posting this. My elderly Yamaha L5 is undergoing a neck reset at the moment, now I can appreciate the amount of work involved. Cheers
I’m constantly amazed at your wealth of knowledge and experience.
I have no idea why I'm watching this, most work I've done on my guitars was to solder a loose ground wire, but I've watched almost every video on this channel and it's absolutely mesmerizing... Truly an art. Keep up the good work man!!
That's more work than I've done on one but since watching like every video on this channel I wanna more haha
"The patient today..." Ha! That was awesome, Ted!
Thank you for another great video!
Woodford. Ted Woodford. 🔫OO-18.😂
@@waybackplayback1347 I corrected the mistake, thank you. I feel embarrassed because I love these videos so much!
Amazing video. the mathematics alone of the exercise is mind-boggling!
Best neck reset video I have ever watched. Thanks for sharing
Can't thank you enough for being so thorough and patient. And exacting. And knowledgeable. And caring. And loveable. Yes. Loveable! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!
Awesome as Always !!!
Thank You so much for all of your videos and tips tricks and advice !!!
It is all truly appreciated !!!!
Brilliant. Just brilliant. I love to watch a real craftsman at work.
I could watch twoody everyday...but I'll take what I can get
Me, too. I subscribe to 30+ channels for everything from favorite bands, to rig rundowns, to luthier work, etc.; and Ted’s videos are always the most satisfying. Great stuff.
@@bldallas Me too. I love watching Ted, he is so careful, skilled, and informative.
Sometimes I do! I'll just rewatch videos I've already seen and sometimes find one I haven't watched yet.
@@PhilosopherThom same here
My new guitar had some sort of glue on the fretboard between the nut & 1st fret when I got it. Thanks to your vids, Ted, I just grabbed a new, sharp razor blade and scraped it clean without a hiccup. Not my first time to scrape a fretboard so I wasn't so apprehensive about doing it and not screwing up. Thanks, Ted! 🙏👍
Using the “sealing iron” is genius. Just the right size and much reasonable than anything at specialty luthier supply places. Have placed my order online, for whenever they’re back in stock in Canada! Good video, Ted!
When building balsa RC planes, we call that a covering iron. If you search for that, you might have more places to order from.
@@jonipaananen9304 good tip, although I had no trouble tracking one down searching for “sealing iron”. The supplier of model RC aircraft stuff turned out to be someone I’d used before, as the site recognised me.
Back in the day, those irons were used to tack down dry mount tissue on the back of photographs before mounting them on illustration board in order to frame them, hence the name "tacking iron".
This is one of the most comprehensive and instructional video on neck resetting I've ever seen. And I have seen paid for 'instructional' videos. Excellent sir! Thank you for your generous allotment of your time and knowledge! I truly appreciate it. This is one of my absolute favourite TH-cam channels. Hope we can see them for many years to come!
I've filed the saddle on my 1974 D-28 almost as low as the one in this video and it's obvious that it's due fir a neck reset. I like a medium action but between the 8th and 14th fret it's become noticeably higher. Hard to find someone to trust with this work. You do a great job.
To my ear Thier is less sustain in the B and High E string. Cleaner sound. Thanks for the video. Learned so much!!
You taught me something in this video about one of my Guild acoustics my family has owned for 47 years. My father gifted me his 1972 Guild D-35. Always read it was Guilds version of the Martin D-18. But you stated the D-18 has back binding, my Guild does not. I was not familiar with the Martin D-16 model
My Guild D-35 looks EXACTLY like this D-16. I mean its spitting image. Thanks for this important discovery
Thank you, professor Woodford, for another excellent class on advanced luthiery . It was great.
However, sometimes it feels a little like cheating, getting so much information relatively free.
In any event, I greatly appreciate the efforts you make to educate us. You do a very fine job.
What a fine job. So well ordered, confident and competent. I explained the enormity, risk and complexity of the task to my Girlfriend so she could understand how well you had done. That truss rod jiggery pokery was a definite bonus complication I did not anticipate!
Is she still your girlfriend?
@@DarkRumAgain Haha!
I neither play nor repair musical instruments, but after a lifetime of precision work, I appreciate the efforts of a master craftsman. I worked part time for Lee Valley for a number of years after retirement, at least until my tool collection was complete.
Informative video, thanks.
11:00 - That neck pocket, with the sound bound interconnected, looks like a nightmare to work on.
When I first learnt neck resetting (25 years ago now), I was taught by an old European Luthier (so Spanish/Classical constructions). He always said the heel cap (that slab of, generally, rosewood at the base of the heel) was the designed method/way in to the neck joint (for resetting etc). As well as removing some of the back binding. He would doggedly figure a method that worked around that (rather than applying steam into the guitar). He found it a faster and more 'invisible/less intrusive technique.
I would love to have seen him scratching his head over this Martin neck joint ;)
He'd probably scowl at a heel cap that was decoration ..over being put there as a 'secret door' for the Luthier :)
I'm only 10 minutes in & your video is the best & most detailed explanation of a dovetail neck re-set that I've ever seen on YT!!!!!!! Much appreciated & subbed!!!!!!!
Nice job, watching a guy that knows what he is doing is pleasing, and explaining the process in detail along the way.
Your videos are an absolute joy to watch.
The skill, attention to detail and craftsmanship is beyond measure.
What a fantastic instructional video, my friend. You are a born teacher. I on the other hand went to teacher's college about an hour from you and moved to Alberta for my first job, only to find out that I am born to be anything but a teacher. You're awesome.
Love a good Martin video!
I've got a very early 80s Sigma DR28 that has more saddle than that bad boy. That is crazy.
Yes, your videos are theraputic and it is satisfying to se see a master work. Thanks! And don't take my rants too seriously...
Don't want to be that guy but... Man Imperial measurement sounds like hard work . Thank someone we changed to Metric in 1970 in Australia .
Love your work , always a great watch and very informative.
Generally it really isn't. The main difference is metric divides by 10 and imperial mostly divides by 2. If you work with computers you can probably do powers and multiples of 2 and 16 in your head without thinking about it. If not, and you use imperial, you still learn to divide or multiply by 2, 4, and 8 just as easily as 10.
Edit: I'm not one of those idiots that says metric is bad. Of course it isn't. But having grown up with both systems, they really aren't much different, and there are some areas (like carpentry) where imperial can have some actual advantages. It all depends on what you are doing and familiarity with the system. If you aren't familiar with the imperial system, yea, it is going to look hard, no argument. But if you know imperial and aren't familiar with metric, it can seem hard too. (I know the metric-only people will find that hard to imagine, but it really does happen for some people.)
I grew up with the metric system but got to learn imperial measurements during my apprenticeship, their both great an easy to learn an if i can learn them anyone can.
Tsd---as a joirneyman nkuthier/repairman, I still have so much respect for the detailed and so true professional work that you do--in front Of a world wide audience, One of my heroes no BS. You set a goal and hard standard for us ti emulate. It is hard work, but at the same time an art. Few of us will work to equal your example. What a gift to give. Thank you.
35 pulls - good to know for .040 in of wood removed. I'm just about ready to fit the neck to my first guitar. I tend to get concerned when I have a conception that something should be done "quick" and doesn't go that way. I'll try to be calm (HA!) when I do my pulls after watching your video. Thanks for this.
Go slow. You can always take more off. It's hard to put back.
You're a genius sir, your vids both give me knowledge and make me anxious of my babies lol . Thankyou
Canadians are blessed to have a luthier like you.
An exraordinarily elegant exposition of the dangers of neck resets generally and this particular configuration especially. As an amateur, I'll probably never see this in life but there's so much to be learnt about the pitfalls involved. When you don't have much experience, things throw you easily. I restored a 1939 Harmony and ended up cutting the fingerboard at the body joint because I couldn't get a spatula through past the 13th fret, Reason - the neck had lifted so much the top of the dovetail was impinging beneath the fingerboard, but ABOVE the soundboard. I should have tried a razor saw and cut the protruding dovetail top. You do't know what you don't know, etc.
At 5:15 - the “neck reset formula.” I KNEW there had to be a geometric way to calculate how much to remove from the heel - this was exactly what I was looking for!
The plate mate does have a bit brighter tone just a smidge. Brass is a very good tone metal.
Clicked 'like' before I even watched it. Not many channels I do that.
"high quality mozarella" ... nice language and in every detail a perfect instruction. Thank you!
The Coverite (other brands exist also) sealing iron is available at most hobby shops and is used to shrink coverings for model aircraft. Coverite is a brand of covering material.
Yes, and MUCH less expensive than if you buy the same device at a photo shop (used for "dry mounting" photos onto paper board for framing).
Here's the iron and a heat gun together for $33 on Amazon: www.amazon.com/dp/B0006OBN2O/
Or get the iron on its own for $23 on eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/174351480882
Well done! Nice relaxed right hand on the strumming! Martin player for 50+ years!!
It is really fun listening while converting all the measurements into millimeters. You are a master.
7/64" is my preferred height at the 12th. Not picking on you, as I realize the customer was complaining about the action/feel of the guitar, but I see a lot of repairmen who want the action at a certain height, probably because most people who play don't even know what their action is to begin with. But action is specific to the player, and I tend to try to get people to play for me before I set up their guitar if I can. Some fellow who, like me, tends to hit the strings really hard at times will need higher action than what most tend to think of. Not that I have anywhere near the experience you have, mind you. Fantastic work, as always!
Love watching you work. “Don’t you agree?” 😁
Love that Lee Valley Tools catalog.
Made my Saturday afternoon to see a new video. Cheers from Northern Utah.
I always learn from watching your vids. Thank you
Such a great video. I'll be doing my first reset soon and this was super helpful for understanding all the steps. Thanks!!
Yeah, when that happened , I shoulda known we were gonna end up with the trumplupigus.
Great channel. I am original owner ‘77 HD28 and the original frets have no indents anywhere. Sad, tells me I need to play more 🥳🤟 Cheers from SoCal.
Wonderful work, excellent narrative and most enjoyable to watch. Thank you
Love the diagram you made ,ted. Martin did some goofy stuff to their builds sometimes, and this was one !! Love your math formula you used also ! Excellent neck reset ! Thanks Ted !
Great video, loved it. I hope my work is as professional as yours some day. I just finished a 000-28 kit and you answered a question I had while reading Dick Boak's instructions written during the period of this long one way truss rod. He states the initial neck set must be done before the fingerboard is glued on but he didnt say why. I can imagine how happy the workers were when the two way came and they didnt have to mess with this at final setting and neck glue ups. The two way also doesn't require a shim to be added so that's less work too.
What a fantastic video, thank you for taking the time to do this!!!
More great stuff, Ted. I really, really enjoy your videos; but I’ve also learned so much from watching them. Along the way, I’ve assembled a pretty good sized kit of luthier tools and done some really nice set up jobs, as well as minor repairs, using the knowledge gained from your videos. Great stuff and very satisfying. Thanks again!
I've no interest in fixing acoustic guitars but I'm addicted to these videos
This is a really well done guitar video. 10/10
I had a Washburn acoustic with a head stock crack well I watched you deal with this kind of repair....I just did what you did to fix it.....and what you know I fixed it just wanna say......thanx
I just bought a Martin Special 16 in August 2020 and this was a very interesting video. The Special 16 as far as I know is basically a very slightly modified D16e. It's made in Nazareth, PA its got a glossed sitka spruce top and having looked into it the only difference I can see is that my Special has Satin Rosewood back and sides where the D16 has glossed back and sides. I guess what I'm saying is its nice to see how the 16's age now that I have one. I feel like the 16's are a little underappreciated. Of course I'm biased now but they are great guitars. I couldnt afford a D45, D35, D28, D18...But I couldnt be more pleased with my Special 16 Rosewood Dreadnought. Ive played an Ibanez Artwood for 5 years and it was a great first guitar. So happy to have stepped into the Martin world!
Thanks for explaining your process and not just doing it. Great video
The metal bridgeplate saver is a tone killer, you want the ball ends resting on the maple bridgeplate for the bright maple to ring through the spruce mahogany or rosewood b&s.
I have been watching several of your videos and you sir do some very nice work. Meticulous and detailed. Very impressed.
I definitely hear a difference between no plate saver & plate saver. With the plate saver, the guitar sounded brighter. Very nice neck reset Ted. You do fine work & are a good teacher of Lutherie.
Thank you for giving some measurements in mm. Watching it in Europe, I sometimes have a problem understanding if "action of 1/1000inch" is good or not. Thanks for all of your knowledge you give for free 😉 I've learned a lot from you!
the most satisfying luthier to watch on youtube. OMG
Thanks for explaining the whole trussrod under the soundboard situation. I believe the truss rod is so far back to allow its pressure to work on the infamous "neck joint bump", which is a common defect on acoustic guitars.
Great job! I'm amazed at how you make a complicated process sound so easy. And also, I think the metal pin plate made the guitar sound a tad bit brighter than the first video (if it's not because you recorded in a different place)
I agree. Though the word that came to my mind was tighter.
I've been using the PlateMate for around 6 months. At the installation I started using TiSonix titanium bridge pins. I like the combo sound. My dead Elixers started breathing, lol. I use it on my Martin HD-35.
Love the vids.
I have a 1990 Martin D62 ( d18 w maple back n sides ). It needs a neck reset. I am in Brazil and shopping for a luthier to do the work. There are alot of talented craftsmen here but little experience with Martins. Are there any questions I should ask or info that I can pass to them. That truss rod situation seems a bit tricky to someone not expecting it.
Experience and expertise...can't beat 'em. One lucky owner.
I get a kind of zen thing watching these.
Great work Tom, it's pretty obvious that you love what you do, you care for every single instrument as if it was your own! Keep up the good work!!
Why do these martins do that? My Martin has significant fret ware but really only the “B” string on the “G” note/8-9 frets. It’s causing some buzzing. But I play through or around it.I was sorta willed the guitar from my uncle who taught me how to play. When I got it. It had very little fret ware. But in just the five years that I’ve owned it. I’ve managed to grind a divot in the frets. I have a few other acoustic guitars and less expensive ones and have had them for a lot more years. The frets aren’t nearly as worn down as on my Martin
So informative as always thanks.
Regarding the truss rod, on my 2002 HD28 it sits further forward, but not nearly as far as this guitar. It seems the 90s the moved it back behind the tone bar as you said, and it's only a 1 way rod. On my newer 2020 OM, it sits even further back, and is now a 2 way truss rod, likely to address the soundboard interference issue, and also to keep nosy people like me from messing with it.
Some guitar shops that have a luthier or technician on their payroll, will do setups themselves on the more valuable instruments that they have in their shops. I did this job for a while and the guitars just sell much easier, if they feel and play better. Martin guitars usually have a relatively high action (2,5 mm - 3,0 mm or even more, e-E on 12th), so it's totally possible that some work has been done when the guitar was still "brand new",...some of the instruments hang there for years and nobody will buy them. However,...If I would have to remove basically the whole saddle to achieve a playable action, I would consider it a faulty guitar, send it back to the distribuierter and just request a new one. Nice job btw.
Ah Ted, you made my day. Actually, to my ears the neck plate made a huge difference - much brighter and more crisp note definition. Then again my ears are crap. Could have been position in the room etc, Don't want to speak for everyone but I suspect a lot of us would love if these were even longer. I've seen them all and I know you don't like to repeat stuff too much but if you had made this multi-part and had gone deeper into each aspect I think it would be well received. That way you could post multiple times a week or just one repair aspect each over a few weeks. Might be a way to free up some time for you. Selfishly I'd just like more. Like many have said there is something captivating and soothing about these vids. You're a natural. Anyway, thanks again.
I watch all your videos, thanks Ted. I regret I didn't chose that type of skill teaching...I'm a teacher but English and in France...
I own a 000-15M and I don't know who would do a job like you do if I ever needed it (started late so...). Amazing craft. 🎶🎶🎶
18:55 "we use a bone saw to cut off the scull, to access the brain". What in the world are you watching?
Excellent work, your videos are always a pleasure to view.
I know this is a nit picky comment, but Martin has been using truss rods since the 30’s. Just non adjustable truss rods. It always bugs me when people say a guitar doesn’t have a truss rod, just because they can’t stick a wrench in there and change the neck relief. I like your videos btw!
You are the true meaning of a craftsman
I loved that formula you used to determine how much of the heel to remove. I hope I be never have to use it. I'll know where to find it though.
Hi, do you ever get classical or flamenco guitars in for repair? I'd like to see that.
Another great video! I also think the bridge saver makes a slightly brighter tone, but either way it’s a nice Martin. I have a Seagull rustic (Canadian!!) and that’s probably the best guitar I will ever own as a cowboy chord strummer...thanks the great info!
Old saying from my government job. "If it ain't broke, fix it till it is."
Or, "If it ain't broke, make it better!"
Or what my internet friend with the vidjeos. AvE would say Cant fix it. Fuck it. into the ¨art bin" it goes.
Nice!
Saw a video from Martin and the neck dove tail is cut fit and numbered very early.
Great video.
Quite a treasure trove of luthier information. 🤟
Don't know if it's because the mic was positioned or set up a tad different or not, but it sounded brighter with the plate back in?
Agreed, Much more 1 K, but mic placement always makes a difference,
Great video, especially how Ted explains things.
Thank you so much. Love your playing...
Thanks, I’m riveted.My ‘77 D28 got refret a couple years ago,new oversized bridge,
New saddle and nut, neck reset. Now I can slip paper behind heel and under bridge corners SIGH.
Thanks for posting this video. Very interesting. These are neat guitars. The bridges are Brazilian Rosewood
I recently did a neck reset on a 3 year old Martin. It was one of the more interesting jobs I had to do, because it was basically a new guitar and the fret board projection with no string tension was actually pretty good,...but under tension the top came out very high, which is not a good thing and I doubt that this guitar will survive to celebrate it's 35th birthday. I had to take this into consideration, when I did the neck reset and the action is pretty good now,...not quite sure for how long, but the customer wanted to do it anyways. They still use this white glue btw,...but I got the neck out with pretty minimal collateral damage.
Am I correct in thinking that a neck reset will always have an effect on intonation? It appeared, but wasn't shown, that our illustrious host did some work on the new saddle for intonation, but the original saddle was just a standard saddle.
The neck is pivoting on a point so theoretically it shouldn't. In practice though, usually the high action and forward rotation of the neck has eaten away some of the compensation so it often intonates better when it's done. I try and get them to nicely as possible with saddle adjustments.
Added puzzle extra ... are we paying attention? In one of the last videos you joked about "self-trepanation," I think it was, on your basement ductwork. And listening very, very carefully to the radio was playing a little a little snippet (no joke there) on trepanning. Subtle! Makes me wonder if there are other Easter eggs scattered about your vids. Oh, and great piece on the Martin.
Artist, Luthier King. Nice work!!