Martin D35 Neck Reset
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- Time for a neck reset in this restoration of this Martin D35 guitar. I also need to do a little binding repair and scrape. This neck reset is a lot of work so give me a thumbs up for the effort!!. Enjoy!
Follow along with this series:
• Martin D35 Restoration
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Love the methodical way you approach setting the neck, and your vids are really entertaining. Thanks
Awesome, thank you!
Tremendous amount of work; thank you for taking the time to upload and share some of the process that goes into a neck reset.
You got it…thanks
Neck reset sure is a lot of work, but looking good, thanks to your hard work. I seen an old classical guitar this week the label said it was a Supro.
Thanks. Supro have been around since the 30’s. I think they’re still around, was it an older one?
Thank you for keeping these essential artifacts on active dutY!
Well done!
Nicely done!
Thanks for the visit
✨Love your videos!
Thank you! 😊
What a fantastic video have a wonderful happy holiday season also a fantastic happy new year ❤😊
Thank you! You too!
Excellent video showing your attention to detail. Thanks. My 1974 D-28 needs a neck reset. I bought the guitar new and entrusting it to someone other than one who says "I can do it" is not easy. Until I find someone I'm comfortable with I'll just keep playing it!
Yeah I hear ya
Good work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent video, cheers
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks
I'm bout to just go for it on an old Harmony for fun...nice video
Interesting video . To be honest, it is not clear why it was necessary to avoid the "fall away" at the fretboard starting from the 14th fret untill the end of It by gluing a piece of veneer , or shim there , maybe 0.6 millimeters, I can’t say for sure since the master did not provide information about this. After all, in this place the span of the strings is maximum, and the action of the strings could be reduced thanks to this decline in height of the fretboard.You will also need to do quite a lot of work on the outer surface of the fretboard so that it becomes properly smooth, without the characteristic distinctive depressions left to the fingertips over many years of playing the musical instrument.
Thanks for the comment. The fall away is a slight diminishing of the fret height after the 14th fret, when you do a neck reset you’re changing the angle which will naturally create more fall away, but how much is unknown until the end, and then you can determine how much to shim, if at all. Realistically that area never gets played on and it’s more of an aesthetic to add the shim to bring it up to where it looks good. I hope that makes sense. It’s a little complicated to explain. Cheers!
Yes indeed. Only the master makes the decision. If it seems to him that the fall away from the beginning of the body (from the 14th fret) does not seem very aesthetic or ergonomic to him, then this, of course, is correct. But there are so many people: so many opinions. I, for example, believe that if the top surface of the fretboard is as smooth as a stake everywhere: so that by putting a straight ruler with slots under the frets, or a special device there, for example, from the Stumak company there will be no for example, the gap between the bottom of the ruler and the top of the fingerboard begins approximately from the 13th fret (if the 14th fret is the junction of the body and the neck), then this will not be entirely correct, but in the case of a reduced scale it is one hundred percent incorrect since the span of the strings in this area of the frets is the maximum observed, and it will be impossible to minimize the distance from the bottom of the string for both the 1st and all other strings to the top of the 12th fret, since without making a break, a clang will be heard. This drop in height will not be noticeable to a professional, much less an amateur, or a beginner.@@vindustrialguitars
Nice job. Good to see you working on a Martin. Can't say I'm partial to the D-35's 3-piece back though. It begs the question, "Why?" Is it supposed to be a step up from a D-28?
I heard they were trying to use up, pieces of rose wood at where not big enough for the back.
@@larryflanagan8799, sure sounds like it. "Introduced in late 1965, the D-35 was designed with its three-piece back to allow the builders at C.F. Martin Guitars to use rosewood sets that were too small to be used in Dreadnought construction."
Hey Peter. Yeah maybe, it has a little more binding detail and the 3 piece back. Other than that it’s pretty similar.
do you always put some mahagony shimes or you put the same material as the neck because i think d35 are rosewood sides
Rosewood,mahogany,maple…doesn’t really matter. Just filling the gap