Hoshizaki not making ice - intermittent mechanical bin control failure

Service call on a Hoshizaki ice machine. This Hoshizaki ice machine stopped working because the mechanical bin control stopped working properly. The result of the mechanical bin control failure is that the ice machine frozen into a large block of ice. The needed to be melted out with a water hose and the mechanical bin control was replaced.
Mechanical bin control
amzn.to/3UJClXl

[@user-de3cm9lf8o]

That machine looks clean as new. Surprised the switch failed.

[@IceMachine411]

It’s a couple years old but has been maintained really well.

[@OcRefrig]

Good video. You can use anything for a bin control. old thermostat type or new style. it's just a set of contacts open or closed. If the ends are wrong just cut & splice. it's not ideal or quickest. but it will work just fine. just do the splicing near the control box out of the moisture area. less chance for problems. you could even put 2 bin stats in series so if one does not work other one opens up circuit. you could even mix and match. put a flapper & old thermostat type in 2 different parts of a big bin. those old thermostat types were a lot more reliable than these new flapper types it seems.

[@IceMachine411]

Thats really good advice. I’m sure I’ll use it one of these days when I’m stuck and out of options. I have noticed that the thermostat bin controls usually fail open so the machine doesn’t work and the mechanical bin controls fail closed so the machine freezes over.

[@whitebear1903]

It seemed that it was a txv issue but finally was an easy fix.🎉🎉🎉

[@IceMachine411]

Yes. Easy but kinda tricky to find.

[@zekenzy6486]

Great Video. Thank you for sharing.

[@IceMachine411]

You’re welcome!

[@thesilentonevictor]

Good troubleshooting

[@IceMachine411]

💪🛠️

[@subcoolHVAC]

Sweet, Good tip 👍

[@IceMachine411]

🫡💪🛠️

[@shine-cg9uf]

🇺🇸💪❄️👍 I just replaced one yesterday 👍💪

[@IceMachine411]

Not uncommon. 💪🛠️🫡

[@harrydickson4575]

👍👍👍

[@IceMachine411]

👍

[@bjsafar6631]

i like your all video but i have a probleme i did not find video for it , my machine didnot make enough ice and as circle time once drop ice on 30 minute once on 45 minute some time more where is my probleme
thank you for your time

[@IceMachine411]

30 minutes isn’t too long for a Hoshizaki. Especially if it’s hot. 🥵

[@MIKE-TitanUp]

I have a KN2500 SRH3
3 beeps . We have changed temp sensor, hot by pass , board . So much more.. it will make 2-3 cycles and 3 beeps. I think it’s sticking in harvest. Anyone got any ideas??

[@IceMachine411]

My Ice Machine is Beeping 3 Times. What Does that Mean?
In this article we will assist technicians in troubleshooting the 3 beep error code. The 3-beep error is the result of two consecutive long freeze cycles. The length of the maximum freeze cycle is determined by the position of DIP switches 9 & 10. Settings for these DIP switches are shown below.
DIP
SW. 9 DIP
SW. 10 MAX. FREEZE TIME
ON ON 75Min/50hz
60Min/60hz
ON OFF 70Min
OFF ON 50Min
OFF OFF 60Min
When the freeze cycle has reached the maximum freeze time and the float switch has not opened to terminate the freeze cycle the control board will automatically initiate a harvest cycle. After completion of harvest the unit will continue into the next freeze cycle. If the next freeze cycle reaches the maximum freeze time the back up timer will again initiate the harvest cycle. This is when the safety alarm engages and locks the machine out on a manual reset, 3-beep audible alarm.
The freeze cycle on Hoshizaki KM ice machines is controlled by water level. As the ice is being formed on the evaporator the level of water in the reservoir drops. Once it has dropped low enough to open the float switch the freeze cycle is terminated and the pump out or harvest cycle begins. During normal operation the water level must drop before the unit will go into harvest. In the case of the 3-beep alarm, the harvest cycle was not initiated by the float switch opening.
Before beginning our troubleshooting, we must reset the control board. On the control board next to the yellow and orange LED there is small alarm reset button. Press and release this pin while the board is beeping. Pressing this pin with the power off will not reset the alarm. Once reset we can troubleshoot the three-beep error.
Many times the reason for erratic operation is caused by a dirty or scaled machine. Before beginning your troubleshooting please make sure the machine has been thoroughly cleaned. Evaporators, water valve, float switch all need to be cleaned before proceeding into the trouble-shooting phase. For more detailed information on cleaning, see Tech Tip Vol. 186. Now that the machine and float switch are clean, we need to confirm component operation. Since the float switch actually sends the unit into harvest, it will be first on the list.
Float Switch: To check the float, remove it from the machine and check the continuity of the switch. Remove the float switch plug from the K5 connector on the board. With your ohmmeter on the plug wires and the float in the down position the switch is open, when it is up or the float turned upside down, the switch is closed. If the switch is closed or open all the time, no matter what position the float is in, the float switch needs replacing. The number one cause for failure of float switches is
scale.
Water Inlet Valve: This valve should be completely closed during our freeze cycle. To check this part pull the small hose off the water valve outlet going to the evaporator section. No water should be flowing from this valve during the freeze cycle. If water is by passing the valve, disassemble and clean/replace if necessary. See SB01-0009 for more info on water valve rebuilding.
Control Board: Test the control board, float switch operation. After 5 minutes of freeze drain the water out of the reservoir. When the water has drained the float switch will open and the control board will terminate the freeze cycle and initiate the harvest or pump out cycle. If the freeze cycle does not terminate, remove the K5 connection to the board. If the unit still does not go into harvest, the control board is defective.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO CONFIRM WHAT PORTION OF THE CYCLE THE BOARD IS IN. WITH “E” STYLE CONTROL BOARDS THIS CAN BE DONE BY CONFIRMING WHICH LED LIGHTS ARE ENERGIZED. WHEN THE BOARD IS IN HARVEST, LED 1, 4 AND 2 SHOULD BE ENERGIZED. WHEN THE CONTROL BOARD GOES INTO THE FREEZE CYCLE LED 1 WILL ENERGIZE. IF YOU ARE WORKING ON A UNIT WITH AN EARLIER CONTROL BOARD THIS CHECK CAN BE DONE USING A VOLT METER. WHEN THE UNIT IS IN HARVEST YOU WILL READ 115 VAC AT THE PINK WIRE AND WHEN IT IS IN FREEZE THE BLACK AND RED WIRES WILL BE ENERGIZED.
×
Water Pump: The water pump itself can be easily tested by putting the unit in wash. We must however also confirm the operation of the water pump in conjunction with the control board. When the unit begins the freeze cycle, the water pump and condenser fan motor should energize on self-contained units. (Remote units the condenser fan starts with the compressor.) If the water pump fails to come on check voltage from the control board K1 connector, red wire, we should see 110 volts. If not, it is a good idea to verify that the board is actually in the “freeze” cycle. See note above to confirm cycle. If we find red with power
at the control board and the pump is still not running, next check the toggle switch.
Toggle Switch: Here you will find two red wires. Without removing them from the toggle switch check each one to ground for 110 volts, if one has power and the other does not, the toggle switch contacts are open. If you temporarily jump these wires together, the pump should energize. If we find voltage on both, check voltage at the pump itself, we should read 110-115VAC between black and red at the Molex connector. If we have voltage there, the pump is suspect.
Hot Gas Valve (HGV): To check the hot gas valve allow the unit to run in the freeze cycle for five minutes. Next place a temperature sensor on the outlet side of the HGV (about 3 to 5 inches down stream from the valve body) we should be reading approximately ambient temperature. If the temperature is high, confirm the valve is not being energized by checking voltage from the pink wire on the K1 connector to neutral. If no power is present the valve body is stuck open mechanically and should be replaced. When replacing any Hot Gas Valve always replace the strainer as well, along with the system drier. If power was present on the pink wire the control board is defective or a rare possibility of a back feed voltage keeping the coil to energize. (Remember make sure the board is in the freeze cycle; see information under water pump).
After checking that the HGV is operating correctly, we will now look at the remaining refrigeration system. To continue the testing it will now be necessary to install your gauges and check for the high and low side pressures at five minutes into the freeze cycle. (Refer to the performance data pages in the Tech Spec pocket guide for proper refrigerant pressures). You will also need to know the ambient temperature at the condenser, water inlet supply temperature and compressor amperage.
If you find that the pressures are low on the suction and high side we recommend that you check for leaks.
If a leak is found use proper refrigeration practice to repair the leak and weigh in the nameplate charge.
Head Master: If the headmaster has failed in the “by-pass” mode you will find the liquid line and the discharge line close to the same temperature and at the same time, the head pressure is well above the headmaster setting. This causes discharge gas to be directed to the receiver tank instead of being routed through the condenser. This may cause the unit to cycle on the high pressure switch. Also, in some cases the discharge bypass will result in long freeze cycles or possibly a (1 beep) high evaporator temperature safety shutdown. The liquid line temperatures should be ambient plus 10 to 20°F. (See Tech Tip 206 for detailed information on Headmaster troubleshooting and the Tech Spec guide for individual Headmaster settings).
With a Water Cooled machine, make sure that the head pressure is adjusted correctly by checking the condenser outlet water temperature this should be adjusted between 100 and 110°F, if not you should adjust the water regulating valve. (Note: Please refer to the individual Tech Spec. guide for actual setting for your model).
TXV: To test the expansion valve or valves, remove the remote sensing bulb from the suction line during the freeze cycle. Hold the sensing bulb or bulbs in your hand and watch the suction line pressure increase, when this pressure settles in, drop the bulb or bulbs into a glass of ice water. The suction pressure should start falling. Once it has “bottomed out”, check to see if the swing of the TXV(s) was more than 7 to 10 psig for R-404a units and 10 to 15 psig. If the suction pressure has less swing the TXV(s) would be suspect and should be replaced. If the swing is found acceptable we then look towards our compressor.
When checking the compressor, first look at the amp draw for the compressor at 5 minutes into the freeze cycle along with the refrigerant pressures. Compare these readings to the Performance data chart for that model (Found in the Tech Spec guide). If the amp draw and head pressure are found to be low and the suction pressure is high, an inefficient compressor is possible. It is a good idea to eliminate all other possibilities before considering the compressor as some of the symptoms are similar between a faulty HGV, TXV, low charge, etc.
Other possibilities are Liquid line solenoid valves and driers that are restricted. Restrictions in these components will typically cause frost during the freeze cycle. If completely restricted however, you may see extremely low suction pressure possibly even a vacuum condition.
Hopefully the information provided in this article will help you easily diagnose the cause of a 3 beep safety shutdown.