How to Attach a Floating Front Canvas to a Suit Coat Front
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2019
- www.BiasBespoke.com/
Now that you've gotten your front canvas to fit your coat -- either by making it from raw materials and sewing it by hand or machine, or by taking a ready-made front canvas and altering it to fit your garment -- in this video we show you how to baste the canvas to the coat and then press it to get the proper chest shape.
He has such a kind, gentle disposition about him. Thanks for featuring such a wonderful teacher. :)
THANK YOU ! THANK YOU ! THANK YOU
I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR THESE VIDEOS ALL OVER TH-cam ! SPECIFICALLY SHOWING HOW TO CONSTRUCT THE CANVAS HOW HOW IT WAS PUT TOGETHER.
I CAN REST IN PEACE NOW !
It's amazing how good the exterior of the jacket looks once the canvasing and the ironing has been done.... even on just one jacket front.
Yes, makes such a difference! It's a reminder of how small, incremental work provides noticeable results when taken in aggregate! In life, and in tailoring! ;)
Excellent. This is just what I needed. I’m very grateful
I too have been looking for videos like this for a long time. I came across your web site first, by looking for all of the material to make the interfacing. The videos are wonderful. I'm ready to sew, sew, sew.
One of its kind on TH-cam, thank for this video
Thank you so much, your videos are so informative and helpful, and charming.
Thank you so much for showing the process.
Thank you Gus it’s very to see you working together! Ej’s
This is wonderful!
Thank you very much for these videos and knowledge that you share with us! I wish you could make more! It's very hard to find a good quality videos about bespoke tailoring. I also wish you could have online classes... Also do fully canvased women's jackets exist or is it only for men's jackets?
Thank you!
We will make more videos eventually! And perhaps someday will offer classes...! Fully-canvased jackets are certainly possible for women too, they just may need much more shaping in the canvas and outer fabric, and exactly how you make the shaping is not so standardized as with men's jackets.
Wonderful video
Beautiful work.
Thank you!
You should continue this tutorial
Muchas gracias, Bias Bespoke
Super like it thank you so much
sir very good
Thank you sir
Thank you Very much
Thank you!
This was a great series. Will there be additional for the remainder of the construction?
Yes, someday! (Clearly, we haven't posted in awhile!)
Is this just for first fitting? I assume its deconstructed after that as right sides of lapel need to go together to sew the lapel and collar, right???
What do you do with the canvas when stitching shoulders and when attaching under collar to neckline of jacket. Does it get trimmed away before stitching or do you catch it within the seams?
These are questions that may be best to show the reply in a video (someday!) but in brief I'll just say that the canvas is loosely basted at the shoulders, and at the neckline it gets caught in the seam and then trimmed very small.
Hello, if, for instance, the jacket would have a welt pocket below the waistline, will the pocket be sewn through the first layer of hymo?
No, the lower pocket will not be stitched through the hymo. We cut the hymo away in the pocket place to eliminate bulk and then do a very loose permanent hand-basting stitch to hold the hymo to the pocket place.
@@biasbespoke Thank you for this clear answer to a question I was just about to ask as well.
Is that first layer of canvas (grey one) body canvas? Then of course chest and domette on top.
Yes, hymo canvas is often greyish/creamish in color. And yes, in the chest area then there's horsehair and domette.
I wonder after the jacket is finished. How will you get rid of the white thread that you sewned in order to attach the canvas and the front piece together?
Thank you for great videos!
Thanks! At the very end of construction, just before the final press, we remove all the white threads by hand.
@@biasbespoke hi
sir how much days it takes to sew bespoke suit......and even the trousers are sticthed in the same way
It all depends on the speed and professionalism of the tailor. Artur once made a suit in one (very long) day, but that is by far the exception, even for him.
I’m trying to get you more views but I think you need to add more key words to your search items! My problem is how to reduce bulk when doing the bust area on a ladies coat or jacket! It seems like I’m not sure where to cut out the canvas and hymo and where not to!Thank you.
I hear you on this question! Women's busts have such variety of shapes, and of desired jacket shapes, that there isn't a standard answer to this. For my jackets (I'm Tova, the manager of Bias Bespoke and Artur & Tailors), I've done a number of different dart situations in the bust area, but the general rule is to make the same darts/shaping on the canvas as you do on the outer fabric of the jacket.
ررراااقي
Hi, your video's are awesome, further construction vids of the jacket would be great. One thing please, I don't understand the function of the dart in the shoulder of the canvas. If it is not also on the outside fabric how can they marry(sit flat)to each other. The waist dart is in both the canvas and fabric, which makes sense.
Same applies to dart in canvas armhole scye. Because it's not on the fabric, (how can the two mould together as the same shape. Thnx for your time.
Hi Michael,
Yes, totally get your question. Quality suitmaking fabric such as wool is very stretchable and shrinkable, and so we really take advantage of the shaping qualities of the wool without darts too. That's what's happening at the shoulder area, and also at the armscye. In a man's jacket we never put darts in the armscye. (In a women's jacket, even for a woman with ample curves, we may avoid making an armscye dart and shape it in other places instead. But that's another story!) On both the chest and the shoulder we shape the canvas front through darts, and we shape the exterior fabric with different techniques. In the shoulder, when making bespoke as we do (not for production), we cut the back seam of the shoulder 1/2" longer than the front seam and ease this in gently with steam so you don't see the ease in the finished garment, but it makes room for the shoulder blade. In the chest area, we shape the outer fabric with a steam iron and hands to mimic shape of the chest (like we show in the video), but since the canvas front underneath doesn't shrink or expand like wool does, it needs the darts cut into it instead.
@@biasbespoke Awesome, I get it now, thank you for explaining it so thoroughly. I look forward to getting canvas etc from Bias Bespoke. Your video's are inspiring. NZ(New Zealand)
@@michaelrosspearson9756 Thank you so much! :))
So how do u actually see the canvas on the suit front because all that basting stitching is going to get removed and the hymo will as well. So how is the canvas actually attached to the suit fabric when finishing the jacket?
It is connected by the collar, through padstitching the lapel, otherwise the canvas 'floats' in between the lining and front shell panel. Exceptions occur as well but otherwise the canvas is meant to dynamically float in the trunk and not be restricted.
Brandon Rivera thank you
We attach the canvas where it's pad-stitched in the lapel area, yes, and also we use edge tape along the front edge and bottom hem to keep it nice and in place there; we give a loose baste to the seam allowance at the shoulders; and it's stitched into the neckline and armscyes and then the canvas seam allowance is trimmed really small there.
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉 good
Sorry to bother you but Could you please answer to my question? This is Full-canvas Suit or Half-canvas Suit? Sorry about my bad English.
Hi Sandy, This is a full canvas suit. In a half-canvas suit, the canvas is only in the chest area and doesn't go all the way to the jacket's hem.
@@biasbespoke I understood. Thank you for your detailed guidance.🤗
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