This is another amazing video from Reza containing advanced tailoring information on a make-or-break step in the construction process. How well this step is executed will have a major impact on how well the final forefront hangs and moves.
Not one for commenting but i thank you very much Reza for your break down of the steps of canvassing in fact everything you and your team are doing for tailoring most appropriated many thanks, luv it.
Hey reza, i love you explanation. I have question. why does the canvas on the edge around the lapel need to be exaggerated with the edge of the cloth? is it okay to cut the edges of the canvas around the lapel to the same length as the edges of the fabric before joining the canvas to the fabric?
Hello! This is called inlay and is temporary. When doing fittings and constructing certain parts of the garment, it is important and necessary to allow for more cloth. Not always, but sometimes. Manipulating your pattern or your fabric will cause changes around the shape and surface of your material. To accommodate for these often unpredictable changes, we allow extra material in areas where we anticipate change and cut it away, at a later stage. Reza
Hi Reza, is celestia pocketing material? I have swatches of pocketing from Bias Bespoke and it looks the same as what was sent in the purple box. Have been unable to find under the name 'celestia '. Also, will you be at some stage selling online, the canvassing, thread etc. Everything needed to make another jacket. Cheers, Ross.
Hello Ross. Silesia can be similar to pocketing indeed. There are many varieties. Weight, weave and fibers all have a role to play. I can’t comment on what Bias Bespoke has as I have not seen it. But it could be similar indeed. We are thinking of providing that. But we haven’t concretised anything yet. I will keep you posted once it happens. Reza
Hey reza loving the series so far. I have a couple questions. I see many tailors canvas around the armhole and instead of going down to the hip area they rather turn towards the front button and create a sort of "semi circle". What do you think is their reasoning. The only thing i can think of is in a non construction way and rather for the fitting to better visualise the balance of the 2 front buttons. Id love ur opinion on it Secondly, do you know any sources of straight lining tape rolls as im struggling to find any Thanks
Thank you. Technically speaking, for pretty much all tailored coats, a stitch through the waist (from armhole to button) serves no special purpose. Even if the tailor may like to think so. Do not be surprised if I told you that many tailors have a very abstract understanding of canvassing. Although the majority of their stitches serve the general purpose, many of them put random and useless stitches on their work, thinking that it does something special. This is not to criticise them as artisans. But rather pointing out how poor instructions and theories lead to pseudo techniques and reasonings that when scrutinised, don't really hold up. It gets even worse when a tailor comes up with "logical" explanations for a non-sensical approach when in reality, it's falling victim to the explanatory drive of the brain. The need to make sense of ambiguity. As for straight lining, please use Satin ribbons. They come in different widths and colours. It will be as good as it can get. Non-stretch and no shrinkage. It's perfect. Make sure to get the lightest version with a smooth surface. Reza
If it's Suede, YES. For other types of leather, you have multiple options. The easiest would be to use glue to match the points I pinned. You can use double sided tape or contact cement. I don't however claim to be an expert in this field. My experiences with leather are as of today, limited. Reza
That will come in Module 5. We are currently at Module 1. We do have a pattern that we use for the lessons, available for free on our website. Have a look: www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/jacket-patterns Reza
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I can't believe I can learn this for free! Thank you!
The best tailoring teacher I've ever seen, I'm forever grateful for your lessons. Thank you very much Reza and all the ISOT team.
You're welcome. And thank you for tuning in. Your support gives meaning to our work.
Reza
This is another amazing video from Reza containing advanced tailoring information on a make-or-break step in the construction process. How well this step is executed will have a major impact on how well the final forefront hangs and moves.
Truly remarkable.
Thanks Reza.
Truly awesome. Love this. Prior lessons have really made sense in this lesson. Coming together really well. Thanks Reza
Glad that everything is coming together Oraine!
Makes me happy.
Reza
Not one for commenting but i thank you very much Reza for your break down of the steps of canvassing in fact everything you and your team are doing for tailoring most appropriated many thanks, luv it.
It is my absolute pleasure. I'm very glad you like it.
Reza
Independently from the great education - mistake 5 made me laugh out lout, your delivery was really on point there!
Thank you for another great video Reza!
This is amazing, thank you Reza and your team for these life-changing lessons. ❤
Thank you very much, great explanations!!
Thanks!
Very beautiful and simple
Wow, I was waiting for this one. So great to have all the variations as well. Thanks again Reza.
You’re welcome!
Muchas gracias, excelente.
Por favor cómo se corta el lienzo con extensión de cadera, que utilizarse en el video.
De nada. Consulte la lección 15:
th-cam.com/video/mv7JIWrIoj4/w-d-xo.html
Disfrutar :)
Excellent!!! 🎉 Thank You Mr. Reza 😊
Excellent video! Thank you!
Very greatful for your Big heart to share
You are very welcome :)
Reza
Thank you big for sharing video
big slay
what an amazing and precious course!!!!! is there any chance of a course regarding jacket with fusible, more like industrial kind of manufacturing?
Thank you. Unfortunately, that's not part of the plan.
Reza
Hey reza, i love you explanation. I have question.
why does the canvas on the edge around the lapel need to be exaggerated with the edge of the cloth? is it okay to cut the edges of the canvas around the lapel to the same length as the edges of the fabric before joining the canvas to the fabric?
Hello!
This is called inlay and is temporary.
When doing fittings and constructing certain parts of the garment, it is important and necessary to allow for more cloth. Not always, but sometimes.
Manipulating your pattern or your fabric will cause changes around the shape and surface of your material. To accommodate for these often unpredictable changes, we allow extra material in areas where we anticipate change and cut it away, at a later stage.
Reza
Hi Reza, is celestia pocketing material? I have swatches of pocketing from Bias Bespoke and it looks the same as what was sent in the purple box. Have been unable to find under the name 'celestia '. Also, will you be at some stage selling online, the canvassing, thread etc. Everything needed to make another jacket. Cheers, Ross.
Hello Ross. Silesia can be similar to pocketing indeed. There are many varieties. Weight, weave and fibers all have a role to play. I can’t comment on what Bias Bespoke has as I have not seen it. But it could be similar indeed.
We are thinking of providing that. But we haven’t concretised anything yet.
I will keep you posted once it happens.
Reza
Hey reza loving the series so far. I have a couple questions.
I see many tailors canvas around the armhole and instead of going down to the hip area they rather turn towards the front button and create a sort of "semi circle". What do you think is their reasoning. The only thing i can think of is in a non construction way and rather for the fitting to better visualise the balance of the 2 front buttons. Id love ur opinion on it
Secondly, do you know any sources of straight lining tape rolls as im struggling to find any
Thanks
Thank you.
Technically speaking, for pretty much all tailored coats, a stitch through the waist (from armhole to button) serves no special purpose. Even if the tailor may like to think so. Do not be surprised if I told you that many tailors have a very abstract understanding of canvassing. Although the majority of their stitches serve the general purpose, many of them put random and useless stitches on their work, thinking that it does something special. This is not to criticise them as artisans. But rather pointing out how poor instructions and theories lead to pseudo techniques and reasonings that when scrutinised, don't really hold up.
It gets even worse when a tailor comes up with "logical" explanations for a non-sensical approach when in reality, it's falling victim to the explanatory drive of the brain. The need to make sense of ambiguity.
As for straight lining, please use Satin ribbons. They come in different widths and colours. It will be as good as it can get. Non-stretch and no shrinkage. It's perfect. Make sure to get the lightest version with a smooth surface.
Reza
16:46 if ur pen is not work as my pen😂. My humor just like that. Anyway it is a lovely chapter.
Enjoy :)
Reza
Hi Raza. Will it make a huge difference if I work from the underarm to the neck? Your online left-handed student
I would not recommend it. You can just flip the forepart so that the top is positioned on your left side :)
Reza, your ambidextrous teacher.
@@OFFICIALISOT I appreciate the guidance.
Am doing your course from Trinidad and Tobago.
And by ANY does it include leather?
If it's Suede, YES.
For other types of leather, you have multiple options. The easiest would be to use glue to match the points I pinned. You can use double sided tape or contact cement.
I don't however claim to be an expert in this field. My experiences with leather are as of today, limited.
Reza
1:40:20 That is just great acting.
Do you have educational courses in drafting special patterns for men's suits?
That will come in Module 5. We are currently at Module 1.
We do have a pattern that we use for the lessons, available for free on our website. Have a look:
www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/jacket-patterns
Reza