Exactly what I was going to say, plus if you strip the head on an etorq off a Lamborghini or Ferrari crank you will drop a pretty dime to replace it. While it might still tighten properly if it's not torque to yield if the owner found out your going to look for a new job and if it's on a car like a Fiat Dino you can search the world high and low and the odds of finding the correct bolt is next to impossible. Since they have a stamp on the head that if not there that would mean you would have an also ran trophy from the car show. I rebuild an engine for one and had to ship it next day air to england so the owner would have his car ready for the Goodwood festival of speed. Car show, auction, vintage car race and hill climb. Leaving the guy three days to get it in the car and tuned for the hill climb and car show. He paid over 300 buck for the complete set of used bolts that I sold him and used to assemble the motor which I sold him for 6 grand and they were all used parts.
Interesting that both the H-F and Snap-On 8mm 6pt sockets broke under the same conditions. To me that signifies both premium brands are essentially equal; if dealing with sockets and probably ratchets
Whoever said a 6-point socket would work on that is a damn fool! The only type of socket other than E-Torx that will fit that bolt is a universal/spline drive socket. Given the amount of torque required for the connecting rods, I wouldn't recommend anything but an E-Torx for that job. ✌🏼
@@Jimmy242r4- AKA John Thompson, Nope, use only the RIGHT tools to MATCH the job being done... Taking shortcuts, especially on high torque applications of critical parts like these, is asking for trouble.... Develop GOOD habits instead of being ultra lazy and cheating those who pay you to do it right...
The amount of pain this caused me as a Mercedes tech is too much to bear! Thank God the first thing I did was buy tons of torx and e-torx and triple square sockets lol. I rounded off quite a few of these back in the day with my chrome 6 point sockets
This is why an actual mechanic buys kits that have all those specialty sockets just in case we don't want to do damage to somebody else's vehicle or our own
Not every mechanic shop; industrial, automotive, or otherwise is gonna provide you with the speciality tools you sometimes need to get the job done. It’s the man wielding the chisel that yields a sculpture. The chisel doesn’t sculpt the man.
@@ShaneReynolds0421you ask "what he means" but then go on to criticize him about what he said? Evidently you failed to comprehend what the video was about and what happened in the video as well. I'm pretty sure the OP was talking about the tools condescending and snide laugh when his precious made 100x the work for him because it didn't break because it had wider QC tolerances I guess! But I don't expect you to understand that either so looks like we are at an impasse...... (It means; a point of no further progress is possible, just FYI... Well maybe not that exact wording but it says the same thing)
A correct cheap tool is better than expensive incorrect tools. I rebuilt my engine and used amazon neiko tripple square sockets without an issue. My hex, e torx, and torx are all oem tools. They're not expensive but at least they have a replacement warranty. My bolt extractors are amazon and work well too. I watch reviews and have a good idea of what works and what doesnt on amazon.
Chrysler auxiliary / start stop batteries have a stud in them to connect to the terminals and it’s an e-torx on the top and there almost always stripped out from someone using a 4mm socket.
When they are that small of an e torx, if you're not on it just right you will strip it out WITH an etorx socket..... Tip of advice, grind the socket so the bevel is gone leading up to the inside splines, ESPECIALLY with the smaller sizes! Never understood why they bevel the socket and the bolt..... I don't need help to get the socket on, I need it to have enough contact surface to get it off!
I'll only use regular sockets on e torx fasteners either in a pinch or on a low torque fastener. When working on something as crucial as the bottom end of an engine, always get the right tools for the job.
In low torque application, standard sockets work. Something that has high torque, use the appropriate e-torx. Btw SO e-torx are excellent, but limited in size and drive.
I will say in my experience with Ford 2.3l eco mustangs they have etorx bolt on the front cover that is removable with an 8mm socket, BUT that's probably only due to it being a very low torque bolt
Oh because it's not a bolt holding the crankshaft in the engine and use the incorrect mid length chrome ⅜ socket on a ½ drive to try to snap it loose? I mean it's only been subjected to a heat cycle once or twice right! 😂 Know what Ford engine comes from Europe? Look for ETorx, XZN, torx and hex drive fasteners to take off 1 part...... Oh wait that's Audi 😆
@@Mac-mu9csI'm using what gets the job done without ending up like in the video.... I can't believe he went and just rounded off the 2nd one too! Would have been better had it been in a car... I'm sure the engine is scrap anyway but still 🤯
used to use this trick with 1/4" chrome flex sockets to sneak bmw oil filter housing bolts out without removing intake. put a paper towel inside. worked every time.
They use the e torx so people that don’t know what they’re doing are less likely to mess with critical components. Whoever said to use a regular socket is one of those people
In my youth I would have said this is a horrible practice. Now I’m kind of all for it on internal engine components. That being said some of these brands use it on things that definitely don’t need it.
The icon broke because it bites harder. We use icon sockets in our testing facility and they get abused and work great. And we use them on nothing but impacts
It broke because it cheaper inferior steel with inconsistent heat treatment as most import stuff same brand many variations in sockets dimensions and durability better import brands a bit more constantly on socket quality repeatability
Eh ive used regular sockets on e torx but just out of laziness. I have an e torx set. I cant say id be dumb enough to use a regular socket on a high torque application though. Works just fine in a pinch for low torque bolts. Congrats on breaking your icon socket tho
That other guy obviously didn't know what the f he was talking about. I'm a commercial electrician and we have to use the correct tool for the correct job. Much like you, thanks for the content. Keep em coming!!!
Nah but that is true. Even at Mercedes in some literature, it says you can use an 8mm instead of an E10 or E12 I believe it’s E10 when working on their cars. Never stripped a bolt. Breaking a socket can happen anytime
@@MarioGoatse it worked well on mid to low torque applications. It doesn’t make much sense to use a different tool when you have it. We just know 8mm fits well and personally… I’ve never had an issue. That’s all
People don't have to agree with me but snap on E sockets are the best fit i have found but there E spanners are complete shite i gave them straight back to the snap on man, i use my bosses cheap draper set that fit better 😅
Snap on always superior, decades ago they sold knipex because moto is they sell the BEST granted they were 80 bucks but you didn’t have the internet and we manufactured everything now we import everything so it’s cheaper 40 years later
I'm all about using the right tool, but if you must, do not just use the complete opposite you can find in the box! Probably don't on a main cap bolt either....
In a pinch I could see this work for something that is not such a high torque application. On the other hand, I have been in the field doing a repair. I had Torx head screws I needed to remove, forgot my Torx bits, but brought all my Allen head sockets and keys. I put the tightest fitting in the recess of the Torx head and managed to break it free. I it worked great for what it was and saved me a trip to the hardware store for some cheap Torx bits.
I may be wrong but I believe it’s a 3/8” 6 point to be exact. Same thing on Chargers, do it all the time. Torque on the fasteners are obviously not the same as the fasteners in this video, but it does work at times.
Good to know. Ill be getting a set of both 6 and 12 pint(if theres a good sale or something) cause I'm actually in the beginning stages of a cylinder head swap. Glad i saw this before i got around to removing my cams!
As someone who works on van hool motor coaches that uses E24 on hubs. I’ve watched people try to use what I think is 19mm or close and hit it with a 1/2 inch impact. Great merciful heaven
@@ObservationofLimitsno just any 12 point. But I mean it dosent wrk that great. When I first started out I didn’t have any specialty tools and a few times I’d use a 12 point on a triple square bolt on a motor mount. As long as there wasn’t any rust or they weren’t super tight it would work but most times they didn’t work
A 6pt will work on etorx but don't use a thin wall chrome mid length ⅜" socket on ½" drive on a bolt that's torqued around 100ft/lbs and been subjected to countless heat cycles but if you find yourself in a situation you must try, at minimum use a shallow normal wall and maybe measure with your caliper, at least wiggle to feel the slop! Obviously sockets are oversized, those tolerance very brand to brand and can change over time (especially if you are using them on the wrong size fasteners all the time 😂) Tighter the tolerance, the greater the chance it loosens but in that it breaks the socket. Looser the tolerance, greater chance it eats the bolt and you're fucked....
Bruh. No way you just tried to defend a socket that cracked with minimal torque. Not to mention, the 8mm is usually missing from HF kits. Using the wrong tool for the job does not make Icon right. If anything it shows how shitty they’re made, and if you buy ICON don’t say you’re a tool enthusiast. Collecting tools like snap on is a hobby, not many technicians can make money while buying only snap on. But boy does it save your ass sometimes. Idc if the Icon rounded it less, it is a clearly inferior product with terrible quality control. Keep being a Hack DIY guy that technicians hate because you applied grease to every sealed ball joint on your car
Bruh ICON is good im not going to lie but Snap-on is way superior in quality ICON is a brand for the DIY, the weekend warrior Snap-on is for the daily technician that wrenches everyday. You cant return ICON if it brakes for another tool you get the same one and snap-on has life time warranty to and snap-on holds its value strongly, im not hatting on Icon i wouldn’t mind owning one.
I had bought a icon 3/8 chrome socket set when they first came out and mind you I never owned no high end sockets and most of my toolbox was just Pittsburgh,you could tell right away the metal was being eaten away from taking off 2 caliper bolts. Never went back to hf after and been getting tekton,gearwrench, neiko, and milwaukee socket sets none of those brands have let me down..so far
Glad to hear you figured out what real quality tools are, I work with people who constantly make fun of me amd others for buying snap on, but they complain all day about their tools not working properly or breaking. I would rather buy one ratchet for $150 and us it for 50 years than have to buy a new ratchet every 5 years. Makes sense to me....
I like tekton and neiko the other one I've had good luck with is lexivon I have 2 of there torque wrenches and will soon buy a third so far they're accurate and come in a decent hard case and at the price I paid if I had to I wouldn't feel bad replacing them
@chriscalderin6677 indefinetly wouldn't try that with a modern craftsman 😂 no one make them like they bused to, I bought a snap on extension 1/2 for pulling plugs. It broke the first time I used it hahaha. Granted I warranteed it and haven't had a problem.
Thanks for confirmation of the TEKTON I passed up everything else to build out a new travel box I wanted to be able to replace lost tools in a set I wanted the size range I wanted a actual warranty and I wanted a fair price and almost settled for less till I was told about TEKTON I really like then so much my sentiment is drastically reduced for my tools of thirty years I just hope they stop jacking up the price because I want it all but having tools already it dose not make sense buy what I may never use but generally when I go on a travel job I have a idea what to grab my concern was theft and being without tools .
@alionintights4074 I used the same craftsman 1/4 ratchet for almost 30 years professionally the anvil looks polished the internals look polished the retention finally wore out could barely hang on to a socket. I broke all the others but with a bar but I remember the rebuild kits were one penny . Back before the internet was fast the socket debate was strong between snap-on and craftsman I am glad I did not want long term payments and bought craftsman because the snap on I did have and others was very difficult to warranty to the point a lot just got trashed in the dumpster. The quality coming out of Taiwan is the standard now and is very good and TEKTON is producing more in the USA as others are moving out
I’ve used 6 point a ton, when I forget to grab my inverted torx from my box on those traveling, buddy situations. Watch out for the inverted torx plus out there also
Regular 12 point socket works perfectly fine even worked to take the etorx out of my engine mount and my caliper mounting brackets that needed a braker bar just to brake them lose.
I really don’t understand why this is even a thing. E/T Torx, Spline, and other “specialty” tool sets literally cost a few bucks, at most I’ve had to spend like 60 Euros on a set and once you have em, you have em for life. Just buy the right damn socket/tool for crying out loud. I’m all for improvising but not in stuff like this man.
Because they aren't common here so most people don't have them or expect to encounter them, and then when they do they try to make it work with the tools they already have.
That’s cause it’s a 12 point. If you get a six point, it will take it out! We do it all the time with newer vehicles that come equipped with them. And use an impact not a standard socket set that’s asking for it to break! I promise you it’s not smoke up the rear. 💨 👍🏽 But most definitely if you have the e-torx use them to your advantage.
The nice person who said you dont need "all those tools" certainly talked his way out of EVER working on any of my steeds and DAMN sure doesn't have too many bills to pay.....
I have had to make do in a pinch, but I highly recommend using the correct tool for the fastener. I personally would have tried a 12 point or a spline but at the first sign of it stripping I would have stopped and purchased the correct socket. It takes more time and cost more when you screw something up using the wrong tool and method than it does to pause and get everything you need to do the job correctly the first time.
It works sometime lol, on control housing for I shifts trans, I can get away with using a normal socket on disassembly but they sometimes I got to bring out the reverse torques. I would say on engine internals use the right tool first go around lol.
Weird, i sold my snap on shallow chrome for icon and some other tools. Been 3 years daily use, no issues not one warranty yet.. honestly i thouught they were softer and going to be a regret, bht absolutrly not.... this video seriously makes me wonder about QC... Alot of the icon wrenches are by kabo.... i LOVE kabo tools! Awesome stuff
Ive done that a hundred times but theres a few etorx sizes that dont work with regular 6 point sockets so yes you still need a e torx set but yes 6 point sockets will also work on a majority of etorx ,ive had to use 6 point chrome wobble to get a couple bell housing bolts on a bmw the socket griped well enough i broke the wobble no stripping or slipping on the fastener
I hate surprise etorx bits. I had one for my passenger side motor mount. Instead of fuckin around and finding out, I got a etorx socket. Got the icon ones. Worked great even under 60ft-lbs of torque. Right tool for the job, no matter which brand, will get you where you need to go.
I dont use Icon sockets, but i have a few of their hand tools that i keep for truck tools and theyre ok for that. This though.. they're Etorx for a reason!
ive done it to both my 10mm and my 8mm snapon both do work on torks and have broken them too on they maybe not on the first use but lightlly used so just warranty them out second set last longer
I learned the lesson the hard way, I bust the head on a connecting rod for Mercedes Benz Sprinter just because I didn't want to walk a few steps to the tool box where the Etorx socket was 😊😊😊
Ive used 8mm sockets on etorx but it was a low torque application. Just a timing cover. Couldnt get my etorx on it (only have shallow etorx) i could tell it wasnt perfect but it gripped well enough to get it done
If you don't have e-torx. Use Teflon tape and a regular socket. Be easy with the amount of pressure. So not the mistakes we make when stripping bolts. Worked for me and I use cheap Chinese tools.
I was working on my 94 ranger (4.0 liter) and the injector rail was affixed by some stud bolt things, not really sure what to call em. But anyhow, it was a #6 etorx or something, but I didn't have any, so I used a 5.5mm six point, got them out with that. I'm not saying it's right, I should have used the right tool for the job, but I didn't, and luckily, it worked-ish, so I'm happy
I don’t have any icon sockets (yet) but probably will eventually. I have mightily abused the Pittsburgh sockets I have. So far they are still intact. I have also cracked /broken at least 1 each of the following. Sometimes surprised and other times applying so much force it seemed inevitable. Snap On SK MAC Craftsman (pre Lowe’s) Cornwell Husky (pre Home Depot)
I have used a 1/4 snap on wrench to remove an e8 bolt from a supercharger on a rotax engine because of limited space to get a socket and ratchet in there
Whoever said a regular socoet would work has absolutely zero clue/idea about what they're talking about! I hope u show them this video! Also i like Pittsburgh tools better than Icon! Pittsburgh's are even cheaper and seem to holdup just as well if not better than anything from Icon! That lifetime warranty gets out to use for sure!😂 Also thanks for ur content, i like how u show the good, bad and the ugly and usually give good to know info! 👍
12 point sockets/wrenchs can work in a pinch for etorx but would always recommend the right tool for the job
Exactly what I was going to say, plus if you strip the head on an etorq off a Lamborghini or Ferrari crank you will drop a pretty dime to replace it. While it might still tighten properly if it's not torque to yield if the owner found out your going to look for a new job and if it's on a car like a Fiat Dino you can search the world high and low and the odds of finding the correct bolt is next to impossible. Since they have a stamp on the head that if not there that would mean you would have an also ran trophy from the car show.
I rebuild an engine for one and had to ship it next day air to england so the owner would have his car ready for the Goodwood festival of speed. Car show, auction, vintage car race and hill climb. Leaving the guy three days to get it in the car and tuned for the hill climb and car show. He paid over 300 buck for the complete set of used bolts that I sold him and used to assemble the motor which I sold him for 6 grand and they were all used parts.
@@theEVILone0130who on earth is gonna be doing heavy line work on a lambo and not have an e10
AGREED 👍🏻
Interesting that both the H-F and Snap-On 8mm 6pt sockets broke under the same conditions. To me that signifies both premium brands are essentially equal; if dealing with sockets and probably ratchets
@@piercehawke8021 the snap on didn't break it rounded the fastener or as he say stripped out and gives a close up of the rounded/stripped E-torx
Whoever said a 6-point socket would work on that is a damn fool! The only type of socket other than E-Torx that will fit that bolt is a universal/spline drive socket. Given the amount of torque required for the connecting rods, I wouldn't recommend anything but an E-Torx for that job. ✌🏼
12 point will work fine.
Jeep driveshaft boltslike that too
I've used normal sockets on etorx in a pinch trying to get to a sump bolt in a recess high torque stuff use the right tools low torque whatever fits
For Christmas nnector rods yes use etorx. However for valve covers ect on BMW and mercs just use a 8mm
@@Jimmy242r4- AKA John Thompson, Nope, use only the RIGHT tools to MATCH the job being done...
Taking shortcuts, especially on high torque applications of critical parts like these, is asking for trouble.... Develop GOOD habits instead of being ultra lazy and cheating those who pay you to do it right...
The amount of pain this caused me as a Mercedes tech is too much to bear! Thank God the first thing I did was buy tons of torx and e-torx and triple square sockets lol. I rounded off quite a few of these back in the day with my chrome 6 point sockets
why in the helk would you even try a 6 point on etorx
Why would you even try it
The real question is why isn’t it just a 6point standard or metric bolt! wtf, why are they reinventing the fuckin wheel!?!?!
Probably more effective for mass production, keeps regular mechanics separate from high end mechanics 🧰 too
@@mattnesbitt6633they have simply built a better mouse trap.
🔧 That's why it's important to have the right tools for the jobs we do👨🏾🔧
Why would you need a deep socket anyways. This is stupid.
This is why an actual mechanic buys kits that have all those specialty sockets just in case we don't want to do damage to somebody else's vehicle or our own
I have used 12pt in a pinch on low torque applications but something like this I use the proper tool.
Not every mechanic shop; industrial, automotive, or otherwise is gonna provide you with the speciality tools you sometimes need to get the job done.
It’s the man wielding the chisel that yields a sculpture. The chisel doesn’t sculpt the man.
That's exactly why technicians make their own😊
@@parkerlee123but it’s important that you’re holding a chisel, not gonna sculpt shit if you’re holding a stick of butter.
@@bleach_drink_me I've used the spline style universal 12-pts. They work great. Still wouldn't recommend them for high torque applications.
On an E10 hold down bolt or something maybe... but engine work or anything torqued I'm definitely reaching for the E torx.
Never seen someone flex about stripping a bolt
What do you mean? He’s trying to prove a point. Not to listen to guys like you.
@@ShaneReynolds0421you ask "what he means" but then go on to criticize him about what he said?
Evidently you failed to comprehend what the video was about and what happened in the video as well.
I'm pretty sure the OP was talking about the tools condescending and snide laugh when his precious made 100x the work for him because it didn't break because it had wider QC tolerances I guess!
But I don't expect you to understand that either so looks like we are at an impasse......
(It means; a point of no further progress is possible, just FYI... Well maybe not that exact wording but it says the same thing)
@@commonsenseisdeadin2024
I just got roasted.
Well there’s your problem, you need to pound a 7mm socket on that bolt, problem solved.
How bout 9/32 dude... Get it right
@@hancowman7622as a american… the standard system needs to be forgotten. 7MM all the way mate
You would do that to every cap bolt?
@@mudpuddle8805 if i had to. but i would also never reuse the bolts once i took them out even if i had the right side
A correct cheap tool is better than expensive incorrect tools. I rebuilt my engine and used amazon neiko tripple square sockets without an issue. My hex, e torx, and torx are all oem tools. They're not expensive but at least they have a replacement warranty. My bolt extractors are amazon and work well too. I watch reviews and have a good idea of what works and what doesnt on amazon.
Chrysler auxiliary / start stop batteries have a stud in them to connect to the terminals and it’s an e-torx on the top and there almost always stripped out from someone using a 4mm socket.
Me when i was a lube tech and had to use what i had but never did I strip them.
It's such a small little etorx... I have one but I'm sure many people don't...
That sounds like a terrible engineering decision.
When they are that small of an e torx, if you're not on it just right you will strip it out WITH an etorx socket.....
Tip of advice, grind the socket so the bevel is gone leading up to the inside splines, ESPECIALLY with the smaller sizes!
Never understood why they bevel the socket and the bolt..... I don't need help to get the socket on, I need it to have enough contact surface to get it off!
I'll only use regular sockets on e torx fasteners either in a pinch or on a low torque fastener. When working on something as crucial as the bottom end of an engine, always get the right tools for the job.
For con rods, non negotiable, for low torque applications it could be done
In low torque application, standard sockets work. Something that has high torque, use the appropriate e-torx.
Btw SO e-torx are excellent, but limited in size and drive.
I will say in my experience with Ford 2.3l eco mustangs they have etorx bolt on the front cover that is removable with an 8mm socket, BUT that's probably only due to it being a very low torque bolt
Im still using torx on torx
Oh because it's not a bolt holding the crankshaft in the engine and use the incorrect mid length chrome ⅜ socket on a ½ drive to try to snap it loose? I mean it's only been subjected to a heat cycle once or twice right! 😂
Know what Ford engine comes from Europe? Look for ETorx, XZN, torx and hex drive fasteners to take off 1 part...... Oh wait that's Audi 😆
@@Mac-mu9csI'm using what gets the job done without ending up like in the video.... I can't believe he went and just rounded off the 2nd one too! Would have been better had it been in a car... I'm sure the engine is scrap anyway but still 🤯
used to use this trick with 1/4" chrome flex sockets to sneak bmw oil filter housing bolts out without removing intake. put a paper towel inside. worked every time.
No Harbor freight slander allowed.
It's all chineseium junk. For a home user it's fine for someone that uses them daily at work they are trash
@@iknowyourebrokeauto468 and expensive to boot
They use the e torx so people that don’t know what they’re doing are less likely to mess with critical components. Whoever said to use a regular socket is one of those people
In my youth I would have said this is a horrible practice. Now I’m kind of all for it on internal engine components. That being said some of these brands use it on things that definitely don’t need it.
The icon broke because it bites harder. We use icon sockets in our testing facility and they get abused and work great. And we use them on nothing but impacts
Because they bite harder 😂🤣😂😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣💀☠️
It broke because it cheaper inferior steel with inconsistent heat treatment as most import stuff same brand many variations in sockets dimensions and durability better import brands a bit more constantly on socket quality repeatability
I guess that why I usto break my chrome mac sockets too because they bite harder.
You can tell icon has way harder steal then the snap on.
@@adamselby8024 That's why you pay the premium at harbor freight for.
Right tool for the job. Saves headaches and more
Just because it fits it doesn’t mean it’s the right tool. I’m glad you can show it personally
Eh ive used regular sockets on e torx but just out of laziness. I have an e torx set. I cant say id be dumb enough to use a regular socket on a high torque application though. Works just fine in a pinch for low torque bolts. Congrats on breaking your icon socket tho
good demonstration this just saved me some headache down the road
Where you really going to try or just being sarcastic?
you obviously don't work on cars enough lmao
That other guy obviously didn't know what the f he was talking about. I'm a commercial electrician and we have to use the correct tool for the correct job. Much like you, thanks for the content. Keep em coming!!!
Nah but that is true. Even at Mercedes in some literature, it says you can use an 8mm instead of an E10 or E12 I believe it’s E10 when working on their cars. Never stripped a bolt. Breaking a socket can happen anytime
You just watched multiple fail.
@@MarioGoatse it worked well on mid to low torque applications. It doesn’t make much sense to use a different tool when you have it. We just know 8mm fits well and personally… I’ve never had an issue. That’s all
People don't have to agree with me but snap on E sockets are the best fit i have found but there E spanners are complete shite i gave them straight back to the snap on man, i use my bosses cheap draper set that fit better 😅
I have a set of older snap on Etorx, have yet to find a fastener that I stripped or couldn’t break loose. I also don’t live in the rust belt tho
@@ZSAGaming what are you talking about spanners or sockets? , the sockets are 100% great fit, but the new spanners are wank
Snap on always superior, decades ago they sold knipex because moto is they sell the BEST granted they were 80 bucks but you didn’t have the internet and we manufactured everything now we import everything so it’s cheaper 40 years later
@@RcPlayer-tt2vw there torx are far from Superior now is a real shame
Whoever said that was either trolling or got lucky once🤔🤔
Find him and tag him 😂
I'm all about using the right tool, but if you must, do not just use the complete opposite you can find in the box!
Probably don't on a main cap bolt either....
I was thinking about giving these a try since my snap on 10mm is missing but I’m glad I watched this short
In a pinch I could see this work for something that is not such a high torque application. On the other hand, I have been in the field doing a repair. I had Torx head screws I needed to remove, forgot my Torx bits, but brought all my Allen head sockets and keys. I put the tightest fitting in the recess of the Torx head and managed to break it free. I it worked great for what it was and saved me a trip to the hardware store for some cheap Torx bits.
Hence the saying “Use the right tool for the job” 😅
For some reason my 04 Sierra has etorq bolts on the seat brackets BUT I know for a fact you can definitely get away with regular 6point on the truck
I may be wrong but I believe it’s a 3/8” 6 point to be exact. Same thing on Chargers, do it all the time. Torque on the fasteners are obviously not the same as the fasteners in this video, but it does work at times.
Good to know. Ill be getting a set of both 6 and 12 pint(if theres a good sale or something) cause I'm actually in the beginning stages of a cylinder head swap. Glad i saw this before i got around to removing my cams!
As someone who works on van hool motor coaches that uses E24 on hubs. I’ve watched people try to use what I think is 19mm or close and hit it with a 1/2 inch impact. Great merciful heaven
Use a 12 point. Works just fine. But to set specific torque specs, id definitely use e-torqx sockets.
12-pt universal maybe. Regular 12-pt has even wider corner angles and won't grip any better in high torque applications.
@@ObservationofLimitsno just any 12 point. But I mean it dosent wrk that great. When I first started out I didn’t have any specialty tools and a few times I’d use a 12 point on a triple square bolt on a motor mount. As long as there wasn’t any rust or they weren’t super tight it would work but most times they didn’t work
A 6pt will work on etorx but don't use a thin wall chrome mid length ⅜" socket on ½" drive on a bolt that's torqued around 100ft/lbs and been subjected to countless heat cycles but if you find yourself in a situation you must try, at minimum use a shallow normal wall and maybe measure with your caliper, at least wiggle to feel the slop!
Obviously sockets are oversized, those tolerance very brand to brand and can change over time (especially if you are using them on the wrong size fasteners all the time 😂)
Tighter the tolerance, the greater the chance it loosens but in that it breaks the socket. Looser the tolerance, greater chance it eats the bolt and you're fucked....
ICON sacrifices itself and strips the fastener less. Then you can return it for the correct tool. Snap-on ruined the fastener. ICON wins!
Bruh. No way you just tried to defend a socket that cracked with minimal torque. Not to mention, the 8mm is usually missing from HF kits. Using the wrong tool for the job does not make Icon right. If anything it shows how shitty they’re made, and if you buy ICON don’t say you’re a tool enthusiast. Collecting tools like snap on is a hobby, not many technicians can make money while buying only snap on. But boy does it save your ass sometimes. Idc if the Icon rounded it less, it is a clearly inferior product with terrible quality control. Keep being a Hack DIY guy that technicians hate because you applied grease to every sealed ball joint on your car
I like icon tools they work great for me I have the icon e torque sockets
Bruh ICON is good im not going to lie but Snap-on is way superior in quality ICON is a brand for the DIY, the weekend warrior Snap-on is for the daily technician that wrenches everyday. You cant return ICON if it brakes for another tool you get the same one and snap-on has life time warranty to and snap-on holds its value strongly, im not hatting on Icon i wouldn’t mind owning one.
i work on all my cars at my house and i cant justify buying snap on to impress the ladies auxillary@@wilbertcoria4768
Dumbest shit ive read today, congratulations
Regular sockets will work on E torx sometimes like caliper brackets 16mm I think in this instance I would use the intended tool.
The right tool makes contact with more surface area
I had bought a icon 3/8 chrome socket set when they first came out and mind you I never owned no high end sockets and most of my toolbox was just Pittsburgh,you could tell right away the metal was being eaten away from taking off 2 caliper bolts. Never went back to hf after and been getting tekton,gearwrench, neiko, and milwaukee socket sets none of those brands have let me down..so far
Glad to hear you figured out what real quality tools are, I work with people who constantly make fun of me amd others for buying snap on, but they complain all day about their tools not working properly or breaking. I would rather buy one ratchet for $150 and us it for 50 years than have to buy a new ratchet every 5 years. Makes sense to me....
I like tekton and neiko the other one I've had good luck with is lexivon I have 2 of there torque wrenches and will soon buy a third so far they're accurate and come in a decent hard case and at the price I paid if I had to I wouldn't feel bad replacing them
@chriscalderin6677 indefinetly wouldn't try that with a modern craftsman 😂 no one make them like they bused to, I bought a snap on extension 1/2 for pulling plugs. It broke the first time I used it hahaha. Granted I warranteed it and haven't had a problem.
Thanks for confirmation of the TEKTON I passed up everything else to build out a new travel box I wanted to be able to replace lost tools in a set I wanted the size range I wanted a actual warranty and I wanted a fair price and almost settled for less till I was told about TEKTON I really like then so much my sentiment is drastically reduced for my tools of thirty years I just hope they stop jacking up the price because I want it all but having tools already it dose not make sense buy what I may never use but generally when I go on a travel job I have a idea what to grab my concern was theft and being without tools .
@alionintights4074 I used the same craftsman 1/4 ratchet for almost 30 years professionally the anvil looks polished the internals look polished the retention finally wore out could barely hang on to a socket. I broke all the others but with a bar but I remember the rebuild kits were one penny . Back before the internet was fast the socket debate was strong between snap-on and craftsman I am glad I did not want long term payments and bought craftsman because the snap on I did have and others was very difficult to warranty to the point a lot just got trashed in the dumpster. The quality coming out of Taiwan is the standard now and is very good and TEKTON is producing more in the USA as others are moving out
Those are etorx plus. They have wider edges and using a standard e torx can strip them
And this is why theirs specific tools for specific jobs!
I’ve used 6 point a ton, when I forget to grab my inverted torx from my box on those traveling, buddy situations. Watch out for the inverted torx plus out there also
I've used a regular socket on Etorx dozens of times. Works 90% of the time. Never messed up socket it bolt.
Depends on the torque level of them haha. In the engine nothing other than an etorx or one of them spline sockets will work.
I learned this 3 days ago about it rounding off.. good times. Got to break out the old harbor freight grinder
12 point works well, only In low torqued applications. Had a few turbo manifold bolts last week I used a box wrench on due to space
These are steel, they're prob 65-80 in-lbs add heat and thread lock
Those are connecting rod bolts the crankshaft bolts are triple squares.
Good demonstration on what not to do.
That free twist on a socket knowing you just stripped it out is a worse feeling than stripping out the head of the nut you're trying to loosen😂
Regular 12 point socket works perfectly fine even worked to take the etorx out of my engine mount and my caliper mounting brackets that needed a braker bar just to brake them lose.
In the tools defense, it wasn't being used for what it was intended for
The right tool to get the job done right. Right from the start.
The broke Harbour Freight boys are gonna be hurt 😅 And it's just facts 😅😅
The snapon got stripped out too
I don't own any icons but at least could go to store on way home and replace it. I'm lucky if my pos snap on guy comes once a month...
I really don’t understand why this is even a thing. E/T Torx, Spline, and other “specialty” tool sets literally cost a few bucks, at most I’ve had to spend like 60 Euros on a set and once you have em, you have em for life.
Just buy the right damn socket/tool for crying out loud. I’m all for improvising but not in stuff like this man.
Because they aren't common here so most people don't have them or expect to encounter them, and then when they do they try to make it work with the tools they already have.
He was just trying it to see if you could use a 6 point on them, because dumbasses think you could but you cannot.
That’s cause it’s a 12 point. If you get a six point, it will take it out! We do it all the time with newer vehicles that come equipped with them. And use an impact not a standard socket set that’s asking for it to break! I promise you it’s not smoke up the rear. 💨 👍🏽 But most definitely if you have the e-torx use them to your advantage.
The reason they use them is because they have greater torque values. So for someone to say just use a regular socket is not educated in bolt knowledge
The nice person who said you dont need "all those tools" certainly talked his way out of EVER working on any of my steeds and DAMN sure doesn't have too many bills to pay.....
Yup, learned this one the hard way as well
Coming from experience with many different brands grey pneumatic my go to
I have had to make do in a pinch, but I highly recommend using the correct tool for the fastener. I personally would have tried a 12 point or a spline but at the first sign of it stripping I would have stopped and purchased the correct socket. It takes more time and cost more when you screw something up using the wrong tool and method than it does to pause and get everything you need to do the job correctly the first time.
Flashback to when I stripped out an e-torx for the oil filter housing on my BMW and I didn’t have the right socket.
I’m a ford tech and the rear differential cover on the new explorers has aluminum etorx bolts that I use a 13mm 6pt impact socket on with a 1/2 impact
Proper tool for the job
Spline drive sockets are supposed to fit all but yea the right tool for the job❤
yes they do work on fasteners requiring less breakaway force!!
It works sometime lol, on control housing for I shifts trans, I can get away with using a normal socket on disassembly but they sometimes I got to bring out the reverse torques. I would say on engine internals use the right tool first go around lol.
Weird, i sold my snap on shallow chrome for icon and some other tools. Been 3 years daily use, no issues not one warranty yet.. honestly i thouught they were softer and going to be a regret, bht absolutrly not.... this video seriously makes me wonder about QC...
Alot of the icon wrenches are by kabo.... i LOVE kabo tools! Awesome stuff
Yup usually bolts strip out 👍👍 need special tools and torque wrench 💪🤷
I’ve used a regular 6 point when I didn’t have the right tool nor the money to buy the tool and it worked but it also wasn’t a very high torqued bolt
Right tool for the job
This is why ICON and other brands offer a lifetime warranty. For some stupidity doesn't last a day. It lasts a lifetime.
The block moves😊
Ive done that a hundred times but theres a few etorx sizes that dont work with regular 6 point sockets so yes you still need a e torx set but yes 6 point sockets will also work on a majority of etorx ,ive had to use 6 point chrome wobble to get a couple bell housing bolts on a bmw the socket griped well enough i broke the wobble no stripping or slipping on the fastener
Never let bad advice get in the way of using the right tool for the job.
I have always used regular sockets and it works for me
Learned that one in a 1500 10 bolt rear end.
The right tool always makes the job so much easier
I hate surprise etorx bits. I had one for my passenger side motor mount. Instead of fuckin around and finding out, I got a etorx socket. Got the icon ones.
Worked great even under 60ft-lbs of torque. Right tool for the job, no matter which brand, will get you where you need to go.
Those 6 points work on the E Torx when there isn't a lot of torque involved. But it's always a gamble no matter what. It's specific for a reason
I dont use Icon sockets, but i have a few of their hand tools that i keep for truck tools and theyre ok for that. This though.. they're Etorx for a reason!
ive done it to both my 10mm and my 8mm snapon both do work on torks and have broken them too on they maybe not on the first use but lightlly used so just warranty them out second set last longer
You have to use a straight cut E torx the regular ones can strip easily as well
Those fasteners are chamfered
You can use a regular socket, but you to make sure the socket fits the bolt tight by hand then use a ratchet not a T handle
thanks for calling people out bro, some guys i tell ya, 🤙🏽💯🙏🏽.
I learned the lesson the hard way, I bust the head on a connecting rod for Mercedes Benz Sprinter just because I didn't want to walk a few steps to the tool box where the Etorx socket was 😊😊😊
Ive used 8mm sockets on etorx but it was a low torque application. Just a timing cover. Couldnt get my etorx on it (only have shallow etorx) i could tell it wasnt perfect but it gripped well enough to get it done
I have had good luck with 12 spline sockets. They actually grab great, and torque up to about 80lb-ft
A lot of etorx are low torque bolts and this method works fine. I have the bluepoint master set just in case tho.
The right tool for the job
If you don't have e-torx. Use Teflon tape and a regular socket. Be easy with the amount of pressure. So not the mistakes we make when stripping bolts.
Worked for me and I use cheap Chinese tools.
I use 6point on etorx bolts all the time and it always works
I was working on my 94 ranger (4.0 liter) and the injector rail was affixed by some stud bolt things, not really sure what to call em. But anyhow, it was a #6 etorx or something, but I didn't have any, so I used a 5.5mm six point, got them out with that. I'm not saying it's right, I should have used the right tool for the job, but I didn't, and luckily, it worked-ish, so I'm happy
I’ve always used regular sockets on those bolt heads and I never stripped them or broken a socket before and I use 6 point sockets all the time
I don’t have any icon sockets (yet) but probably will eventually.
I have mightily abused the Pittsburgh sockets I have. So far they are still intact.
I have also cracked /broken at least 1 each of the following. Sometimes surprised and other times applying so much force it seemed inevitable.
Snap On
SK
MAC
Craftsman (pre Lowe’s)
Cornwell
Husky (pre Home Depot)
I have used a 1/4 snap on wrench to remove an e8 bolt from a supercharger on a rotax engine because of limited space to get a socket and ratchet in there
Godbless you for demonstrating this 😂
Those are special E-Torx Plus sockets. They have flats instead of points inside the socket. Yes Suboxone wrench will work but not a good idea
I bought a set of those while working on my mini Cooper. I haven't needed them again yet. But I'm just a little handy, not a mechanic.
Another issue is the fact manufacturers are using something as small as an 8mm when there seems to be ample room for a larger headed fastener...
Fun fact. If the head of an e10 bolt strips you can use an e12 socket and it will most likely get the bolt off
You can use them until a certain torque like a small engine on intake studs you can
Whoever said a regular socoet would work has absolutely zero clue/idea about what they're talking about! I hope u show them this video! Also i like Pittsburgh tools better than Icon! Pittsburgh's are even cheaper and seem to holdup just as well if not better than anything from Icon! That lifetime warranty gets out to use for sure!😂 Also thanks for ur content, i like how u show the good, bad and the ugly and usually give good to know info! 👍