Stoked that you guys are Canadian! The more Canadian content the better, especially when it comes to automotive material. There are a lot of great channels coming out of California and other states, but they'll never know rust like we do. I am enjoying the content boys, keep up the good work!
@@TheSubieSanctuary definitely will do! I was looking at buying a WRX in very similar condition to this bugeye, so this is a real eye-opener to the work that would have been ahead of me. Where abouts in Canada are you guys?
Yes definitely a huge and very expensive job to bring it back to life. Honestly its cheaper to buy a jdm subaru and swap over the firewall 😂 We are in Orangeville, Ontario
Nova Scotian here. Awesome work guys. No doubt I'll be referencing these video's in my near future. Awesome to see some Canadians showing what we deal with 😂
I’ve been watching your restoration videos for a good while now. If the rocker is rusted from outside and under the car is it still fixable? Like next to the floor if it’s rotten or where you jack up the car if there are holes if it possible to fix? Sorry for bad english
Yes its still possible to fix. The rotten rocker by jack point and inner rocker towards floor is very common. We cut out the rust and replace with new metal
What's the sealer you are using? Any issues with it catching fire when welding? Or do the "spot/tack" welds not get it got enough. Great work, there is a real lack of info on this repair in the UK.
We use a zinc weld through primer (its meant to get hot) when it does it galvinizes. We weld the whole seam. Then if possible we spray the back of weld. Then 2 part epoxy primer for the final seal. Then paint then we spray oil into the panels and rockers.
@@TheSubieSanctuary I understand the weld primer, it was the black sealer you used on the rocker before you fitted it up I was interested in. I commented whilst watching the video previously so once I watched you tack weld the rockers on I can see that there would be very little heat build up. I like the flanging tool to create an overlap joint. Is there a compromise between doing that and having to do lots of filler passes, Vs butt welding and perhaps less filler? Or do you think you'd end up doing a similar amount of filler once the panel distorts from numerous weld/grind ops. I've watched all three videos and it's a very good thorough job. If it took you 200 hrs it would take me 5 times that as I'd spend lots of time procrastinating and don't have your skill either!
@@TheSubieSanctuary just found your channel and i love the content. I am in the process of doing a similar job on my ‘04 sti. If i am understanding you correctly, are you saying its better to use the zinc primer on the inside of the panels prior to welding them as it will protect against rust better than the black oil based paint you used? I want to make sure when i cut the wheel arches and inner skins on the back of the car, that i prep and seal them properly before welding on the subisavers to make sure it does not rust going forward. Btw i have to thank you for the subisavers i never knew about them till i saw your channel. Huge huge thanks as it saved me lots of money and headaches. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me as i have never undertaken a body work project of this magnitude! Weld, grind, rust protect, primer, seam seal and then coat with?? Thats where im having a hard time understanding what my final coating should be. Thank you!
SUBJECT VEHICLE: 2004 Subaru Forester X 25 w\ AT After the fact of jacking up the car several times and limited use, The pinch weld on both sides from about the back door is all open plus the sub frame in back is heavily rusty and none of this supposed framing looks very thick. I am hearing in my thoughts that some of this supposed framing is thinner guage then what use to be used in body parts on older cars. Can you show or help to find someone to make the easiest possible but guaranteed to last and easiest to install full frame to make and then install the body on frame. I do not want a pretty version I want the I am living in it old man on his death bed cant think very well limited focus least price version.
When we need subframes, we get them from the importers. They usually come with everything attached, like controls arms etc. Very affordable and most importantly no rust on them. Hopefully that helps with your search.
Anyone have recommendations on which products to buy for the following: - Rust converter - Rust-resistant sealing paint - Galvanized weld-through primer - Seam sealer - Rocker gaurd
@@Ceba551 ya we just dont get all the same brands among US and Canada. Id say, your best to contact local auto body store and see what they recommend for each of those and tell them what your doing they should be able to point you in the right direction for products
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Would you look at that. My Impreza rusts in all the same places. Almost like this is a common issue 😄. Good job mate, another one saved!
Stoked that you guys are Canadian! The more Canadian content the better, especially when it comes to automotive material. There are a lot of great channels coming out of California and other states, but they'll never know rust like we do. I am enjoying the content boys, keep up the good work!
Thanks brother! Definitely a shock to the non rust belt car enthusiasts eh 😉
Thanks for watching, stay tuned for part 3
@@TheSubieSanctuary definitely will do! I was looking at buying a WRX in very similar condition to this bugeye, so this is a real eye-opener to the work that would have been ahead of me. Where abouts in Canada are you guys?
Yes definitely a huge and very expensive job to bring it back to life.
Honestly its cheaper to buy a jdm subaru and swap over the firewall 😂
We are in Orangeville, Ontario
Jesse and Rob continuously show excellent work
Nova Scotian here. Awesome work guys. No doubt I'll be referencing these video's in my near future. Awesome to see some Canadians showing what we deal with 😂
Loving this especially since I bought a rusty scooby. Nice work.
Nice intercooler set 6:30
Super impressive guys! Thank you for sharing 👍🏻
I wish I could do body work. My newly acquired GC coupe needs a bit of work.
Good job guys.
very nice well done job
the steps you added in is that just some metal straps welded on the back side? about to tackle this project on a 99 wagon
Yes some thicker 18g plates to make it a lift point
I’ve been watching your restoration videos for a good while now. If the rocker is rusted from outside and under the car is it still fixable? Like next to the floor if it’s rotten or where you jack up the car if there are holes if it possible to fix? Sorry for bad english
Yes its still possible to fix. The rotten rocker by jack point and inner rocker towards floor is very common.
We cut out the rust and replace with new metal
What's the sealer you are using? Any issues with it catching fire when welding? Or do the "spot/tack" welds not get it got enough. Great work, there is a real lack of info on this repair in the UK.
Hot*
We use a zinc weld through primer (its meant to get hot) when it does it galvinizes. We weld the whole seam.
Then if possible we spray the back of weld. Then 2 part epoxy primer for the final seal. Then paint then we spray oil into the panels and rockers.
@@TheSubieSanctuary I understand the weld primer, it was the black sealer you used on the rocker before you fitted it up I was interested in. I commented whilst watching the video previously so once I watched you tack weld the rockers on I can see that there would be very little heat build up. I like the flanging tool to create an overlap joint. Is there a compromise between doing that and having to do lots of filler passes, Vs butt welding and perhaps less filler? Or do you think you'd end up doing a similar amount of filler once the panel distorts from numerous weld/grind ops. I've watched all three videos and it's a very good thorough job. If it took you 200 hrs it would take me 5 times that as I'd spend lots of time procrastinating and don't have your skill either!
That was just an oil base paint, cheaper then the zinc primer. If budget isnt an issue id completely spray inner rocker with the zinc primer!
@@TheSubieSanctuary just found your channel and i love the content. I am in the process of doing a similar job on my ‘04 sti. If i am understanding you correctly, are you saying its better to use the zinc primer on the inside of the panels prior to welding them as it will protect against rust better than the black oil based paint you used? I want to make sure when i cut the wheel arches and inner skins on the back of the car, that i prep and seal them properly before welding on the subisavers to make sure it does not rust going forward. Btw i have to thank you for the subisavers i never knew about them till i saw your channel. Huge huge thanks as it saved me lots of money and headaches. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me as i have never undertaken a body work project of this magnitude! Weld, grind, rust protect, primer, seam seal and then coat with?? Thats where im having a hard time understanding what my final coating should be. Thank you!
Where are you guys located? I have a 97 OBS that I'd like some work done.
Oh no way! I nice classic, we had one this summer for awhile.
We are in Orangeville, Ontario, Canada
SUBJECT VEHICLE:
2004 Subaru Forester X 25 w\ AT
After the fact of jacking up the car several times and limited use, The pinch weld on both sides from about the back door is all open plus the sub frame in back is heavily rusty and none of this supposed framing looks very thick. I am hearing in my thoughts that some of this supposed framing is thinner guage then what use to be used in body parts on older cars.
Can you show or help to find someone to make the easiest possible but guaranteed to last and easiest to install full frame to make and then install the body on frame.
I do not want a pretty version I want the I am living in it old man on his death bed cant think very well limited focus least price version.
When we need subframes, we get them from the importers. They usually come with everything attached, like controls arms etc. Very affordable and most importantly no rust on them. Hopefully that helps with your search.
Anyone have recommendations on which products to buy for the following:
- Rust converter
- Rust-resistant sealing paint
- Galvanized weld-through primer
- Seam sealer
- Rocker gaurd
Are you in the US or Canada?
@@TheSubieSanctuary US, but near Canada (Detroit)
@@Ceba551 ya we just dont get all the same brands among US and Canada.
Id say, your best to contact local auto body store and see what they recommend for each of those and tell them what your doing they should be able to point you in the right direction for products
What's something like this cost
$10k all in, this was a lot more rust and replacements then the typical subaru that we will even agree to fix.
@@TheSubieSanctuary I just need the metal work done... I'll do all the filler and prime and painting.. just done have a welder
The body work/welding work. Just comes down to $50/hr.
We have a big wait list for body work though.
Nice work. Ten grand sounds very reasonable. That car was pretty bad.
Sure is alot of work for a 3000$ Subaru.....
Kinda some fundamental as fishing. A complete waste of time but something to do!