2016 Mazda3 Front Wheel Bearing Hub Replacement - How To
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ธ.ค. 2019
- This video shows the process of replacing a front wheel bearing on a 2016 Mazda3 Grand Touring.
Parts Needed:
- New Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly
- Anti-seize (optional but preferred)
Tools Needed:
- Socket wrench
- Sockets (13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 21mm, and 32mm)
- Floor jack
- Jack stands
- Breaker bar or pipe (recommended)
- Hammers (ball pein and 4 lb recommended)
- Loctite (recommended)
DISCLAIMER
This video is intended for informational and entertainment purposes only. All repairs should be handled by a licensed professional. We, steveandthemilkman, are not responsible or liable for any damages, loss, or injuries that may result from or be related to the use of any methods or equipment shown in this video. We do not guarantee that the content of this video is complete or accurate. Any damages, loss, or injuries that may occur due to the use of any equipment or information provided in this video are the responsibility of the user only. This disclaimer supersedes any content of this video. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Feeling very confident in completing this job after watching, thank you for a very complete and informative walk-through.
Thanks for the video! I plan to do this tonight or tomorrow morning after it cools off. On thing I thought I'd note is:
The factory service manual says for the axel nut: torque to 74-110lbf, loosen 180deg, torque to 175-202lbf. I dunno how important this is.
This trick 9:35 worked for me and saved my troubles ! I went buying those 2 hammers and ot was worth it. On a CX5 2014, it was frozen there.
Just used this video to do both front wheel bearings on my 2015 Mazda CX-5 (while wearing my Midnight Mayhem V tee). Did both in
Kudos to my boy Steve for helping
Greaaat tutorial, just about to do it with mine. This what I need it. Thanks a lot man.
Gracias mi hermano por el vídeo estubo super bueno ya cambiamos el balero
Talk about a cake job compared to a Fusion/Milan/6 which are pressed in. Nice job Mazda!
Tip: Just remove the caliper bracket and leave the caliper bolted to it. No need to remove caliper and bracket separately.
This helped a ton! Thanks so much for posting!!!
Nice video! Thanks for all the tips
I laughed at the "one dew job" gives me confidence I can do it within 2 dews.
Gracias parcero por ese vídeo tan bueno
Thank you. Big help!!
Just did this bro best advice ever !!!!
Great informative video. Thank You
I put my spare on and lowered car. Then you can put socket on axle nut easy and tire on ground keeps stress off CV joints and diff. when breaking that nut loose. 420K on my mazda 3. Good cars.
I think it's funny how a lot of the car tutorials I watch something "not normal" happens that specifically me, don't have the tools for! Hahahah!
My way of getting the axle nut out is to use a long breaker bar between lug nut and hub, sitting on the ground. Reacts the torque and doesn’t damage lug threads
great job . If your car ride in the snow it is possible you have to change the dust garde because mind was all dusty and falling a part on my CX 5 2014 so check yours and maybe order that to
About to do this. I hope to God my axel nut comes off with the breaker . 🤞
A tip for loosening or tightening axle nuts and also lug nuts: instead of pushing on the breaker bar, position the breaker bar at about the 12 or 1 o'clock position, then stand up and use your body weight to pull. You can get much more leverage that way. By standing on a breaker bar, it allows it to flex and not transfer the torque to the fastener.
As a mechanical engineer let me tell you that what you said makes so sense in terms of physics. But eh, that doesn't matter, if it works for you, it works.
@@Blockbuster2033 In that same token, you should know that pulling is always more effective than pushing. So, your pull force is going to be much greater than your push force.
I bought the gun
You could potentially push your car off the jack stands and cause serious damage that way. I wouldn't recommend it.
@@Blockbuster2033 if you're the type of engineer that designs modern ('90's+) cars... Let me just give you a warm a well deserved FU on behalf of those who service your handiwork.
Absolutely failed to get the heat shield and the last back-piece glued to it off- mine had a secret off-specs 25pc. ball bearing hub. Fun.
Good
Good video, I followed your advice but had some problems. The advice of soft blows is solid, you could also provide torque specs. I could not get hub to spin even with the ball peen hammer. I have a harbor freight hand jack hammer that I used because I could not get it to separate from the hub. The jack hammer made it spin and then it came off. When I had it apart I noticed a little slot on he bottom of the hub to insert a chisel to maybe remove the bearing hub assembly.
did you find the torque specs would be useful for me also
The nut and bolts were easy to remove, but I can't get my hub assembly off due to rust. Any advice?
the hardest part was banging the housing out.. it was really in there on mine. I banged it until there was a gap and then wedged it out. Also my heat shield is pretty much rusted out... not sure if its something I can buy new. Mine is a cx5 so maybe bigger and I'm sure the salt on the roads here made it extra seized.
It's a dust shields and yes you should be able to order them
Do a video on how to change the clutch on these models please
Got me with that dew joke 😆
Can you share the torque spec for the wheel hub? Thanks.
Awesome tutorial!
What did you torque the bearing to?
I've wondered this one important part not mentioned
should be about 150ft lbs
-wheel bearing bolts(4)= 63-75 lb ft
So, mazda 3 has hub bearings both front and rear now. used to be (for the front )wheel bearings with knuckles and wheel hub installed on the top separately. which way is better?
Would a wheel alignment be required after the wheel bearing replacement
Do you need a new Spindle Lock Nut, after replacing the Front Wheel Bearing Hub?
Hi Guys,
How can I check what size of a wheel bearings (front and rear) I need to my Mazda 3 2014 2.0 120 Skyactive-g
It's a pain in the ass because it involves taking the center caps off the wheels and then re-mounting the wheels, but loosening and tightening the axle nut is easier with the wheels on the ground
Need torque spec for hub assembly nuts
What's the torque spec for wheel hubs?
Acá desde Colombia
Broo add a longer bar to that breaker bar and no prob
Rule number 1. Leave the car on the ground with the wheel on! (just remove the hub cover.) And have someone standing on the brake when loosening the axle Nut... Get it loose then lift the car and proceed! As they did, All of the torque/torture you put through your drive shaft into the differential when you stand on the breaker bar otherwise.
The drive shaft and differential are used to much much higher torques that occur when driving, but it will be much easier to remove the nut when on the ground because you eliminate the drivetrain lash.
Is your Mazda made in Mexico? From what I understand they have 2 different parts for Mazda made in Mexico and Japan. I've been wondering if I could use the parts from either source (cuz the Japan part is a ton cheaper) I don't know what the differences are between the 2 but I'm sure you saw it when you did this?
It is a Japan model. If the parts have different part numbers between Mexico and Japan variants, I would stick with the correct part.
Thanks for posting this. Unfortunately, I'll have to do this pretty soon. Any recommended brands?
Timken is known for being pretty much the best, but they can be a bit pricey. So it depends on your budget. I would avoid going cheap if possible or you will likely find yourself doing the job again in the near future. Thanks for watching and we hope this is helpful when you go to do the job!
@@steveandthemilkman1311 Do you guys have a Mexico or Japan variant? I'm looking to see if they use the same upfront, but it appears the rears are different from the Mexico and Japan models..
@@TokyoChopSquad the car shown in this video is the Japanese variant.
Nathan Hovey I just replaced the Mexican variant. Confirmed same as video, same as Japanese.
@@ConradILIius Thanks for your confirmation, I am going to replace it soon.
Just want to know is it the same for a mazda 3 2012 GX sky activ front wheel bearing
replacement?
I don't believe it is. I think with the 2012 you have to press the bearing in because it doesn't come in a hub assembly.
Hey! I followed this guide to the T. Even used a calibrated torque wrench to get the right lbs/ft. The humming noise is gone (yay) but now I'm getting a cracking/banging noise when I hit bumps. I took everything apart, made sure to follow the directions again, and same issue. When the tire is on, the brake bracket kind of...wiggles...very very slightly, but I noticed it doesn't wiggle on the opposite side. Do you have any idea what might be the issue?
What are the torque specs you used? The caliper braket should be firmly mounted, wiggling doesn't sound like a good thing.
@@steveandthemilkman1311 I figured out the issue. I did not have the right torque spec on the caliper bracket. Needed to be 55-75ft/lbs and I was only at 25!!!!! Thanks for bringing that to my attention!
Your video was excellent and I was able to change both hub assemblies. But man, that axel nut was NO JOKE!!!! Lol.
@@KekeTV860 that seems high I'm sure I dine mine to around 40ft pounds all is good my end at least u sorted it bud
Geez the Impact with Chrome😶
i thought i needed a wheel bearing buy it seems to be loose brake pads. not sure how to fit that they are 6 months old and only 1 side it banging around over bumps
Do you know if the gen 1 (2007) model also is a hub assembly or will I need to press?
From what I can tell, the 2007 (front) needs to be pressed in. A good way for you to be sure is to go on an auto parts website (like RockAuto), put in your exact car, and see what the parts look like. I know for sure that the 2010-2013s need to be pressed. What we did was just buy a hydraulic press from Harbor Freight for about $150, it pays itself off on the first wheel bearing and from there you have another great tool to use for any future jobs!
@@steveandthemilkman1311 alright, thank you. I was hoping I didn't have to take off the whole knuckle to get the hub assembly off 😭 but thank you for responding, much appreciated.
AH ok so Subaru,Nissan and Mazda used these all in one bearig hub. I hated those where u need press on and cut the race and chisel off.. OMG i cant.. I dint know you dont even need to remove the lower ball joint and tied rod. Wow i need to get a Mazda :)
The problem with these style bearing assemblies is the bearing itself is smaller in diameter compared to bearings pressed inside the knuckle. It seems this is why they fail sooner. I can’t tell you how many recent Mazdas have had wheel bearing failures. It rarely used to be a thing, especially on front wheels. The older Ford platforms had this style on the rears but front was always a press fit spindle into bearing or spindle/bearing assembly into knuckle.
Your were right about the hammer on hammer action. Usually it's dangerous to smack hammers together because they can shrapnel. I tried using punches and half inch bolt to try and move like you did, no luck. Even used an air chisel...boo. Only your method most effective.
Reminder, if axel is seized, back out nut to the end of thread and smack socket. Bent my threads and took hrs repairing, looking for die to recut.
Could you let me know the park's number and the website
Did you have to remove the speed sensor to do this job?
I removed mine. You need a 10mm to break it loose. Use some penetrating fluid and it pulls right out.
My quick and easy trick to getting the hub assembly off. No banging at all. Use a ball bearing too. 😉
Tool
How did you know it was bad. I have a faint whining/whirring noise coming from my 2015 6 on the right side
Bad wheel bearings can make a few different noises. Whining or whirring can definitely be a sign. Does it get louder while turning or at certain speeds?
Steve and the Milkman it starts up around 25 and gets slightly louder by 40mph. Above that the wind and tire noise drowns it out but when I drive past walls I hear it more
@@ayoonasanya3957 The most common thing that's mistaken for wheel bearing noise is tire noise. If I'm not sure and it doesn't sound too bad yet I'll normally wait until I get a fresh set of tires and see how it changes. If you've already replaced the tires and it didn't help, it could be a bearing, but it's difficult to say without hearing it.
Do these bend and cause bad wheel alignment?
The hub itself bend? I doubt it. I've never heard of that happening and it's so short and we'll built I think other things would bend before it would.
Just a noise issue.. roaring or humming and some vibration.
I have a 2017 Mazda 6 and let me tell ya incredible hulk himself could've removed it...I think it was put on with thors hammer..
Haha did you try the method we use? I have spent hours trying every method online and getting nowhere, but since I figured this method out I have had nothing but success.
Harbour freight 1/2 earthquake xt impact gun worked for me..thankfully
@@6hilltop6 for the 3 bolts ?
this video didnt say what signs the car had to say its the bearing
You work at Honda don't you?
ya. Easy freaken Peasy
I tried this now my car won’t reverse. Any reason why ? I put the wheel back on and tried reversing out of the garage but the car won’t move
Does it seem like it tries to move? Or does it just rev up? I would think either the brake is locked up or the CV wasn't reinstalled properly
I forgot to remove the rear wheel chuck 😂
Thanks for the video ! Fixed lol
Hahahaha we never think of the simple things. Glad it was useful!
Torque setting not mentioned? Good video otherwise
Hello. Where did you get your hub assembly? How much was it? Thanks!
I can't remember where it was purchased for sure but we normally shop at rock auto as long as we can wait for delivery. A decent hub assembly will run about $100(for Timken). I wouldn't reccomend the cheaper ones.
Moog
What is the torque specs for thec4 bolts??
-wheel bearing bolts(4)= 63-75 lb ft
@@BoBaaah boom .. just what i was looking for ser.. ty
Mazda sent me the wrong fucking hub lmao
Im in the same boat. There are two different style of wheel bearing hub for the same year and there barely any available for 31splines.
but you are replacing all hub. Replacing bearing is different thing.
Very true but I guess a bearing will be at least 20-30 quid hub unit much more and less hassle I guess