2014 - 2018 Mazda 3 Lower Control Arm and Ball Joint Replacement with Torque Specs - 3rd gen Mazda3

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& the Ko-ken Socket is from the set (RS14401MS/10)
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Just a quick video showing how easy it is to replace the lower ball joints and the entire lower control arm on a 2014 - 2018 Mazda 3. This one happened to be made in Japan, but I don't think there is a difference in the lower control arms. The owner bought the replacement parts from TRQ
Here's the link to the video for how to replace the quick struts:
• 2014 - 2018 Mazda 3 Fr...
Here's the video on the rear shock replacement:
• 2014 - 2018 Mazda 3 Ho...
Torque Specs:
27 - 31 ft lbs for the Ball Joint Retention Pinch Bolt & Nut
158-191 ft lbs for the Front Lower Control Arm Bolt
101 - 126 ft lbs for the Rear Longer Lower Control Arm Bolt
74 - 89 ft lbs for the Rear Shorter Lower Control Arm Bolt
Tools Needed:
19mm socket and/or breaker bar or impact wrench
1/2" Impact Wobble
14mm deep socket and ratchet or impact
14mm ratcheting wrench or box end wrench
Pry Bar
Mallet
Jack & Jackstands
Torque Wrench
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[@jackrichards4888]

Just re did my whole entire rear end, control arms were seized shock was as well so I checked this out for the front because I have to do that as well, a lot of sawzall was needed..

[@suprimx3130]

Will use this video for my guide! Thumbs up!! Hope you could do caliper, rotor replacement as well. Thanks

[@rbartow22]

I don't remember the exact video, I thought it was 1A auto but there are several good rotor/brake and caliper replacement videos that worked super well for me. I'm a car noob and I replaced both in my 18 mazda 3 touring and had it checked at a service center and it went perfectly.

[@fidegall]

How many miles did that car have?

[@rstscott]

The Mazda dealership wants $1600 for this job.

[@DantheFixitMan]

Wow! That seems like a lot for the amount of time it took.

[@MyKonaRC]

Do you have the parts, time, space, tools, knowledge, and skill? It may seem a little expensive but was that for two of them and including wheel alignment that is needed after the part(s) are replaced.

[@rbartow22]

@@MyKonaRC Dealerships are always significantly more expensive though. My dealership wants around the same while a number of local highly rated mechanics and Mazda certified mechanics will all do it for under $1,000 parts/labor/warranty. It's cause dealerships charge between $110-$160+ per labor hour (despite only actually paying said mechanics around $26-$30/hour).
The cost for the axle on my car is $450, it takes 1.7 hours but let's just say 3 hours, so the dealership should be maximum $930 at worst but than they add in a chunk of other fees, insurance, etc. They also tell me upfront they charge nearly 35% additional just for the part - $660 - but won't let me buy the OEM part directly myself to save the money lol.
Dealerships are scams when it comes to non-warranty fixes compared to equal jobs from equally qualified non-dealer mechanics.