2012 Mazda3 Rear Wheel Bearing Hub Replacement - Best method of wheel bearing removal, by far!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- The best method of wheel bearing hub removal, by far!
This video shows the process of replacing a rear wheel bearing on a 2012 Mazda3 Grand Touring.
Parts Needed:
- New Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly
- Anti-seize (optional but preferred)
Tools Needed:
- Socket wrench
- Sockets (E6 star socket, 14mm and 21mm or lug wrench that comes with the car,)
- 14mm combo wrench
- Floor jack
- Jack stand
- Breaker bar or pipe (recommended)
- Hammers (ball pein and 4 lb recommended)
There you have it! Feel free to comment any questions and we will be sure to provide any suggestions we may have!
DISCLAIMER
This video is intended for informational and entertainment purposes only. All repairs should be handled by a licensed professional. We, steveandthemilkman, are not responsible or liable for any damages, loss, or injuries that may result from or be related to the use of any methods or equipment shown in this video. We do not guarantee that the content of this video is complete or accurate. Any damages, loss, or injuries that may occur due to the use of any equipment or information provided in this video are the responsibility of the user only. This disclaimer supersedes any content of this video.
This was the exact video I needed to see. I live in Ontario and the rust is horrendous. I pulled the caliber and rotor off and was looking at the wheel bearing and was feeling defeated by the rust. I’m definitely going to try this tomorrow
i like your way of rotating the hub with hammer blows..
Nice no nonsense video!
Thank you ...
Great video and thank you for the tip on rotating the hub. I don't think I would of completed the job if I hadn't seen this first.
The real og right here.
It’s funny how every time you hit the bearing rust is flying everywhere, very relatable hahaha
Hammer trick's a good idea! Thankfully mine just fell out on both sides, but I'll remember the trick.
Thanks for the great video! My hub replacement job went a lot better than expected as a result of watching. However, I did try the double-hammer trick and didn't get anywhere. I ended up just beating on the hub directly with a 4# and it wiggled out. Just got to make sure not to drop it and break the ABS sensor!
Great vid. Just finished the rear driver side on mine. I'm glad I didn't have to remove the lower arm bolt. I was dreading finishing the job when I questioned if this was necessary.
Thanks a bunch for “the release tab right-there” at 14:05. Until I watched you vid it was the greatest challenge for me. I even considered cutting the wires:)
Thanks again!
If you don't have a Torx socket, you can use a 5mm long socket with a small extension....worked for me easy.
Thanks for the trick. Just be careful not to strip the bolt heads.
You the men Great explanation
Instead of hammering you can try big pipe wrench and big hammer give it a whack it'll release bearing assembly in 2 to 3 whacks.
Great video man! Wish I knew about it before I pulled the speed sensor out a year ago lol. Just an fyi, in the video you say its a 2010 2.0L but the title/description says different :)
Thanks! Good catch on the year error. I must have gotten mixed up because we have both a 2010 and 2012. I have done this job on both and can say that it is exactly the same on either year.
Mine was a T-50 (Torx Bolts).
Not easy .
Excellent video dude! RIP ball peen hammer☠️🔨
next time save a old rotor bolt it on backwards and hit that with a hammer from under the car it will pop right out. Dont do this with a rotor you plan on reusing i keep one around that has multiple bolt patterns drilled into it and no more then 2 minutes to get them off. I live in canada we have no shortage of seize parts here so i know a few tricks. If your having a hard time getting a good angle to hit take a monkey wrench bigger the better clamp it down to the top of the rotor and crank it with a hammer itll come off almost instantly. If you dont have a extra junk rotor take a monkey wrench and clamp it down on the hub assembly its self and crack it, the reason you struggled more getting this off is because you didnt have a good angle to hit on it. Which made you have to choke up on the hammer. Great video thanks for posting.
Amazing video 🙌🏾
Thank you for watching!
Don’t add anti-seize to lugs. They’re supposed to be torqued dry. 😣
he reused the old ones, only new ones are supossed to hold a proper torque dry
I know this video is old, But that's the same problem I'm having.damn rust kicked my butt today, I have to start back in the morning. It was getting late working oui
Did you torque the T50 nuts, I cant find the specifications. And torque specification around brake braket and brake pins ?
Can we replace just the hub without replacing the bearings?
Nice video. You removed the caliper together with bracket ?
Thanks! Yeah we did. That may not always be possible if the rotars are grooved from the pads wearing them down. If that's the case, you'll need to remove the caliper then the bracket.
pnumatic air hammer works well
That was pretty easy can you perhaps do one for the front i have the same car.
I don't know if we'll be able to do one in the near future. But the process is similar to other cars. For this car, it's a press-in bearing so the big difference is that you have to remove the steering knuckle assembly, press the bearing out, and press the new bearing in. You'll need a press(or access to one), you can buy a good one from Harbor Frieght for like $130.
@@steveandthemilkman1311 thanks so much im sure i can do it just need the press 👍
Thanks need to do this on mine. How long did it take?
Depends on a few things but generally a few hours max.
If you have pb blaster and a pry bar as well as other tools he used your only real time consumption is pulling the hub off the car. I'd say ballpark for both in the back would be about a half hour.
Not one tq wrench was seen ,antisieze on hub bolts ,ah,no
how many Nm of the 4 screws should be tightened?
The shop manual says 33-44 Nm.
@@TheCollectorsJourneythis is a few years old but it’s 33-44ft lbs. not Nm. 45-60Nm. Also you should never use a hardened hammer on a hardened hammer. Hardened steel is brittle. It’s a good way to get a chunk of one of them in the body. If someone is to do this method, they should use a softer hammer such as brass or aluminum to beat on the ball peen.
What size torque
You should have mention getting your wheels retorqued after a 100 klm's
@@notsevenfeettall I hear ya but good luck getting those lugs off on the side of the HWY.
since you're not keeping the old one, you could just bang directly on it
I have had little luck with that method. The only way I've been able to remove these is by getting them to turn.
slide hammer dude
Good method as well. But I have seen people struggle with those like anything else.