How to Clean Intake valves / Carbon clean // Mazda CX 5 (All Skyactiv Gasoline Engines)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2018
- This video i will taking apart the intake manifold to see if there's any carbon build up like many Mazda CX 5 owners claims uses Skyactiv gasoline engines. The car had only done 28.XXXkms and surprisingly the intake valves were covered up with carbons deposits. Which could cause a possible performance loss if not treated / serviced by removing the carbon deposits.
What is Direct Injection?
Direct injection is a form of electronic fuel injection (EFI) where the fuel injector sprays fuel directly into the cylinder, as opposed to port fuel injection, where the fuel is injected into the intake tract ahead of the valves and after the throttle body. Direct injection offers many benefits over port fuel injection, including increased power and fuel economy, due to it's ability to contribute to an extremely lean burn. Direct injection engines require a high-pressure fuel pump to create enough pressure to properly operate, and use a common rail fuel system.
Carbon build up problems :
Direct injection is actually a fairly old technology, with the 1955 Mercedes300SL using direct injection, and diesels using DI for quite awhile. Gasoline DI only became mainstream around around the early 2000's, and many of these early engines had issues with carbon buildups forming on the intake valves; an issue that was rather uncommon for other EFI engines. The reason for this is fairly technical, but I'll shorten it for clarity and provide a link that explains it in more detail. Basically, combustion byproducts get recycled into the intaketract through the PCV valve, and will cling to the intake valves on their way into the combustion chamber. With portfuel injection, fuel is constantly moving over the valves, in effect "washing" the valves and preventing carbon form building up too much. With DI, the absence of this fuel allows the carbon to accumulate, and if left unchecked, can prevent the valves from seating properly, causing a number of issues.
There's a couple of method to do this which are Walnut basting or Chemical wash . This purpose i went with chemical wash and a tool pick to clean the carbon deposits. Chemical that i had gone with and which helps in the cleaning proses , proven to dissolve carbon deposits with ease from Berryman B12 Chemical.
Advantage by doing this service it restore mpg , restore the air flow to the engine and better throttle response ( Like new car feel )
Replacement part : If replacing
Intake Manifold gasket part# PE01- 13 - 111
Torque spec intake manifold bolts to 16 - 20NM torque.
Please do it at your own risks , only use this as a basic direction, if you are not aware or in any ways of competent please seek your mechanic.
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My god I want to live in a country with zero snow and salt, that engine bay looks FLAWLESS compared to my 2014's. No rust, and hardly any dust. Amazing.
Here in saudi no rust mostly but we suffering from very hot weather (: .
Try Arizona, California, New Mexico or Texas...they are dry and their northern parts gets snow. Arizona, normally have no rust in the Phoenix or Tucson areas. Flagstaff gets snow...but not much snow in last decade, etc.
IKR I live in Florida, near Melbourne Beach
Best you move to Australia then, some snow in the eastern states but things warm up in summer...
no snow but you get lotsa mud and dust
Just continue, I'm huge fan of your clean work 👌🏻
D7 Qhtani thank you for your supports . Make sure to subscribe for more cool videos .
love ur video. extremely clear, not a bit of shaking at all. u showed all of the important stuff. really like ur video.
Thank you Swat Katz. Appreciate your support . Dont forget to subscribe , like and share this video to friends. :)
As always, a great video Dan. A few things I noticed doing this on my 2017 Mazda 3 GT with only 46,000 KM:
1. The carbon build-up was about the same as yours. there was little carbon build up on the walls - just the valves. I drive a mix of highway (100km/hr+) and stop-and-go gridlock traffic.
2. Berryman B-12 does not appear to be available here in Canada. I used an alternative Carb cleaner (Canadian Tire brand for you Canucks which I believe is just a relabeled CRC) to soak the valves for about 2 hours - 3 times (with cleaning with pic in-between). I also used a plumbing flux brush and tooth brush.
3. I tried the CRC specific valve cleaner as a soak, but it didn't seam as effective.
4. Use a compressed air gun to blow out the valves. Equally effective is the blower function of a shop-vac type vacuum (I used a Ridged 5HP and adapted a small hose on end to focus the air). The idea here is to blow out all the little pieces of carbon that haven't been dissolved. I've seen this approach used by others and works well. Otherwise, you will end up with little pieces left behind.
5. I wouldn't recommend using a vacuum to suck up the little pieces of carbon and solvent. While electrical motors and solvents are definitely a fire hazard, the thought of having a vacuum gummed up with carbon bits and solvent would be a nightmare to clean, if not impossible.
6. The solvents are fairly corrosive. Make sure you use safety glasses! I had some solvent splash up on the lens of my flashlight and it permanently damaged the lens!
7. Mazda specifically mentions in the workshop manual the intake gaskets are not re-usable (same goes for throttle body gasket). You can probably get away with it if your car is only a few years old, but would get new ones to save yourself the hassle if the originals don't re-seal.
8. I wouldn't encourage someone to do this who is not comfortable and with a bit of experience working on vehicles. While not difficult per say, you are exposing a critical entry point into your engine.
9. I would also highly suggest replacing the PCV valve since the intake will be removed. Keep in mind that when you replace the PCV valve, the retainer, o-ring and separator gasket also need to be replaced (as per Mazda workshop manual, the separator should be removed from the vehicle to remove the PCV). You cannot re-use the retainer specifically as it won't seal correctly again after being removed. Additional tip, you can buy a kit from Mazda that includes a pre-assembled separator, PCV valve, and all gaskets. Total cost is only about $15 more than just buying the valve and necessary gaskets separately.
Is it worth it? Will update in a few days. My mazda dealer gave me the wrong gaskets so waiting on those to put everything back together. That being said, it is definitely a lot of tedious work. Obviously the valves don't build carbon indefinitely, otherwise we'd see numerous Mazda engine failures considering there are many on the road with hundreds of thousands of miles. The consensus seems to be that a cleaning does increase responsiveness, so it may be a weekend task every few years.
great write up very detail thanks for posting
I wonder if anyone has honed/polished the intake runners while they have it open. Smoothing the airflow path can result in increased power and fewer things for deposits to stick to.
@@ericfranke1637 hmm i have not seen anybody done the modification very interested to see the results if anybody has done it.
Where did you find the Mazda emissions kit with pre-assembled separator, o-rings, pcv, etc? I've only found individual parts so far.
@@walkerclintoneric have you try ebay www.ebay.com/p/1337124518
Simple and concise, good job. Thank you. 👏🏾👏🏼
Thanks man
I love your videos because the model CX5 (down to trim and color) are exactly mine as well.
Thank you. :)
Thank you for this video. Very educational. Will probably do this on my 2018 Mazda 3 this summer. 66K miles on it. Subscribed!
You are welcome sir. Yes definately a must do maintenance for these cars. Thank you and i appreciate for your support and time watching videos on this channel. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Recently purchased a used commuter mazda and was going to pay for a cleaning but after this I decided to do it myself. Thanks for the video
no problems. keep us posted once you ve done the service.
Thanks for posting the video. Great work.
Asid Mohammad thank you sir.
Earned yourself a new subscriber. Great job!
Thank you sir.
Hey I appreciated for your help teaching me removing Intake Manifold cause I have to access to the Fuel Injector to clean those up since my CX-5 was consumed a lot of gas. Thank you! ❤
You r welcome sir. 🙏🏼🙏🏼 If you can carbon clean the intake valves too would be a good time so you dont remove the manidold twice.
Inspired by this video, I just recently did an intake valve cleaning service for my 2013 CX5 at 45K kms. Surprisingly, the valves were relatively clean and only got thin dry carbon layer. Only took 15 minutes to spray the carb cleaner, wipe, and blow all intake valves to dry, no need to brush or agitate. I'm using amsoil 0W-20 and pertamax turbo (ron 98) fuel, and most of that kms used for highway speed intercity driving.
yeah if the vehicle r used mainly on the highways, the car wouldn't have a bad carbon build up issue. Quality fuels also helps reducing the amount of carbons. Im glad you didn't have to elbow grease with the tooth brush hahaha.
Felix Dan good fuel will keep combustion chamber clean of carbon obviously not squeaky clean but it doesn’t affect the valves in no way as no gas goes to their.
Felix Dan sure you k ow that thought nice vid 👍
@@henrytom5824 if you use quality fuel . It will have less gunk build up compared with bad fuel.
@@FelixDanGarasiAuto
I am curious for direct injection, how does fuel quality matter towards the back side of valves?
That gasoline doesn’t flow over the backside of valves, ever.
I hypothesize it’s then the engine oil and driving condition that perhaps impact more, no?
Fantastic vid man. Keep it up. thank you so much!
Luke Hollosy thank you sir.
Felix Dan how we close the valves after open throttle to cleaning?
Hi Felix! Just finished intake valve cleaning today using crc spray. I will update you on the status. Keep up the good work 👍
Sir Felix, so I did use crc spray intake valves cleaner. It's worth noting that I didn't use the whole can, only half (afraid of too much moisture will cause turbulence and ultimately throw codes). After 1 hour and half (instruction: only 1) started her up and went for a drive. Immediately at the red light, I could feel idle extremely smooth. Better Acceleration only felt after a week. I repeated the same steps after 2nd week. Now, my ride starts and accelerates like new. I guess the product does work. 👍 Thank you all. 😁
Mohammad.
Did your car engine light came on after using crc? You still using crc?
@@lukha225 what is your cleaning process?
Excellent job. Thank you for the very clear instructions.
u r welcome. glad this video can help.
wow very straight forward job.. much easier than on volkswagen/audi
100% correct.
Great video, thank you very much. It's very well demonstrated!
No problems. You r welcome.
@@FelixDanGarasiAuto Hey bro I am planning to build a brand new car Mazda 6 ism general I want Skyactiv-g 2.0 or 2.2 turbo. What do I need to add to add 400hp.
@@revanvonheaven8270 hehe maybe bigger turbo n proper tune . i dont think many done this type of engine.
@@revanvonheaven8270 or maybe engine swap to Honda K series much better platform.
@@FelixDanGarasiAuto JDM has good engines but there are alternatives such as Mazda Speed 6,Speed 3, MPV 3.0, Rx7 Rotary dual turbo Miata engines can go from 400-600 legal for the road no problem so I have those choices but I want this one due to its tech maybe I would be happy with 300hp. Idk I'm a new driver not a mechanic and I am new to this. I will have to do my research!.
Just did this job. The hardest part was removing some of the lower harness clips that are attached to the intake. One of the clips can only be accessed from below the vehicle. You failed to mention that. Thanks for your videos!
ahh yeah , i didnt mention that . apologize for that. good catch though.
how much was the cost if done at a dealer ?
Thanks for this tip. Please confirm that you had to remove one or both of the plastic panels underneath the car to gain access to these wiring harness clips? Thanks again for the tip!
Did you notice any improvement in the performance?
@@scooterwoodley195 Not really. This is more a matter of engine maintenance than performance. The valve clicking does go away though.
I Dan, I fixed my problem on my CX5 (sounds too loud at start the engine and sound rought on Idle) Just clean the MAF and MAP sensors, also cleaned the throtle body (it was so dirty in there used a half bottle of carbon cleaner and used a tooth paste brush, my microfiber changes color from blue to black) now it sounds like a new car at the start also put an AEM Dryflow Air Filter (it looks so cool). And now on first driving test have better fuel economy from 11.5mpg on trafic to 24mpg. I will do this more often. Thanks to your videos.
You are very welcome sir :) appreciate it
Hy I have CX5 diesel and look about a CX5 gasoline to replace in the future, Seam to be also a messy engine but definitely more clean than the diesel engine ! Great job by the way and help a lot of Mazda owners !
No worries glad that it can helps alot of people. :)
My CX-5 is a 2019 Grand Touring Reserve 2.5 L. turbo engine. I recently purchased a CORK SPORT Oil Catch Can and my garage will install it this June. It catches a lot of the PCV system blow-by so it does not get on the back side of the intake valves of this direct injection engine. THEN every 15,000 miles my dealer will clean the intake valves with "BG Platinum" fluid using their cleaning machine and NO disassembly is needed. My dealer's service charges are usually expensive as hell but for this service they charge less than anywhere else here in the Las Vegas valley. Plus "BG Platinum" is rated as the best intake valve cleaning fluid, better than "SeaFoam".
UPDATE: After 5,000 miles with the oil catch can i drained 1/3 cup of nasty-looking brown liquid THAT WILL NEVER GET TO THE INTAKE VALVES. I'm a believer in oil catch cans for DI engines that have no additional port injection.
I know is been 3 years and probably u dont have the car, but i dont think mazda has a cleaning machine...... i know corksport has a special tool, so that u can sandblast the valves.
I still have the CX-5 and only 37,000 miles on it. The oil catch can never got any drainable oil after the first 1/4 cup!
My dealer uses a intake valve cleaning machine with B12 fluid at 40,000 miles @@Dan-vt1qt
I just came here to see what’s involved in removing the intake manifold. I gotta do this on my wife’s CX5 to replace the knock sensor. Dealer wanted $400+ to do it. Makes me appreciate my Ford all the more!
All Ford Ecoboost engines have DI as well. The carbon buildup problem is even made worse by the turbo. Boosted engines have higher pressures, leading to more carbon vapors being pushed out of the engine crankcase through the PCV and into the engine intakes.
Ford is in the process of adding Dual Injection (Direct and Port) to address the problem on a few of their vehicles, but most are still DI only.
Toyota is the only company that now has Dual Injection on their entire fleet line.
aall direc tinjected engines need this done!
Did you have a code for the knock sensor? How come replacing it ?
Never ever heard that before . Someone who appreciates working on a ford lol
Mr. Dan, thank you for the reply. Cant find it, will get a bigger light and look again. be safe.
Thank you for this video. I love it.
You are welcome . Anytime :)
Hi Felix Dan, Could you please tell me whether Mazda 3 gasoline engine has EGR pipe or port that return EGR back to manifold? 2nd question, can i use oil catch can to catch air oil from the tube that connected from the top cover cylinder head?
You could have used CRC to spray into the intake cylinders pass the sensors ,but your way of doing it probably saved getting a lot of crape into the engine ,and thanks for making this video .
Yeh I would love to see him use the CRC and then take the cover off again to see if it actually did anything.
Im from malaysia, here its not that easy to get CRC product, most of the local hardware store dont sell it. Normally can be found at Ace hardware(lots of american/import prodcut) but then, its quite pricey.
I doubt crc works so great.
Thanks Felix, really good job
No problemo
Hai Felix Thansk for your video, very good information for my owner mazda cx 5, i hope i learn with you
You r welcome sir. Very glad this helps mazda owners :)
Fantastic video, thank you. Did you see a PCV valve under the manifold? Is the oil catch standard or did you add it? I read that the PCV was under there, did you replace it? Thanks for any info from a 2015 Mazda 3 2.0 owner.
You welcome sir. Thank you for tuning in to this channel. Yes theres a pcv valve hidden behind the intake manifold. Oil catch /oil seperator can is standard on this engines.
Felix Dan thank you for your wonderful videos. Question, I assume you suctioned out the chemicals and carbon residue-I saw a little bit of the tool you used but did not see the actual process. Can you please clarify this step? Thanks again
Yes i havd use a vacuum tool to remove the left over chemical . Sort of like a mini catch can.
Basically use a syringe to suck it out. What Felix used is a very common laboratory syringe. You can buy these online, as a lab supply. Attach a hose to the tip of it, so can suck from the lowest point in the intake. Any fuel/transmission hose should work.
Maybe this is a also a problem if an engine is only beeing driven short distances. All those modern engines are not made for that. I'm surprised that this could happen to a petrol engine. I drive Mazda cars since more than 26 years. My next one should be a Mazda 5 skyactive D 175 AWD. This would be my first Diesel. But I think it will be more efficient and for towing my caravan it has more torque.
But thank you a lot for posting this video and your explainings.
In a Mazda garage you might spend lots of money for work like that. But I suspect they will never mentain customers cars like that. And at higher km' s following defects will be caused by that issue. And than the bill will be much higher. Here in Germany we sometimes drive with highspeed on the motorway for a while when there is less traffic. This could also help to get rid of those carbon deposits.
Thank you for showing and explaining your good work. 👍
Is 2 years Already ??!!
How are you Felix? I finally cleaned the carbon of the valves on my Mazda 3. Its not as easy as you do it and doesn't take 19 minutes like your video. But my car had 70,000 miles, should done it sooner. Thanks to you, BIG THANKS TO YOU I cleaned the valves,MAF sensor, MAP sensor,Changed spark plugs, clean Throttle body, changed belts, replace coolant, cleaned the air conditioner ducts and fan blower and last but not the least and even thought is illegal in California I install the oil catch can!!!!!! Took me 10 hours but that was enough time to stay out of the house since my wife was mad for some reason she doesn't know. Thanks a lost. Felix and please take care
Hahah glad you did the major service . Ah yeah the amount of time spent doing this service is about 3 to 4 hours. But yeah i understand you had to clean all the parts above. haha but it was worth it right. The car should runs like a dream as new. 😁😁
Wat is MAP sensor??
@@bastogne315 The MAP sensor Is located on the driver side of the manifold. Stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure. Use an electronic parts cleaner and use care when pulling manifold or you can damage connector.
Great video Felix. Note: Using good quality fuel and synthetic oil will help prevent carbon buildup on the intake valves.
Yes definately . Thank you sir for supporting this channel be sure to like share and subscribe to keep the channel grows. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
That's true but low IQ drivers prefer cheap oil and gasoline
Damn... those scooters are everywhere! They just pop up next to you.. in front of you! Crazy!
They are very very annoying indeed haha.
very interesting, good job!
Cheers mate.
So just to check the carbon buildup, one could *only* remove the six bolts holding the manifold and crack it open enough to have a look at the valves! I'm trying this approach next week. I'll be back with the results. Just bought a used 2016 CX-5 last month @ 80000km and eager to find out! Great tutorial BTW Felix Dan
You r welcome sir. Please let us know the progress. Im curious to see at 80.000km :) if you have walnut blast it would be much quicker process for this service.
@@FelixDanGarasiAuto just finished inspecting the valves after removing the six bolts holding the manifold: the inside looks close to your video. The carbon buildup is a bit higher on the valve stems... Got a few pics and a video I could share with you if interested. Might do a video on youtube and link it to yours :-) For now, I've closed everything up and might clean it up next spring. Engine is still running smoothly.
Can you post a engine clean up video for your Mazda.. Thanks
Great video.
I just did the same thing last month to my Mazda 3 skyactiv engine
By the way, may i suggest, it would be a plus if you explain why the intake valves getting so dirty. Thats will help mazda skyactiv friends understand the theory better.
2nd.. since you already taken out the manifold and the throttle body, did you clean the throttle body? Or maybe you can make another video for throttle body cleaning? Just a suggestion...
Also, when u took out your intake manifold, my advise is that by installing an oil catch can will helps to reduce carbon deposits in future...
As the oil vapors trapped at the oil catch can n condensed turned to liquid oil form , thus only clean air will flow back into the intake manifold. This will keep the intake valve much cleaner vs stock setting.
Also remember to change your air filter regulary. Cos dust + oil vapor = carbon deposit inside the valve. Thank you.
felix liew hi bro. Yes i have cleaned the TB aswell. The link is here th-cam.com/video/eVEJ9-96DS4/w-d-xo.html.
Felix Liew,
The oil is coming from PCV. Positive Crankcase Ventilation. The source of that? Blow-by gas passing from the combustion chamber going past the piston o-ring. This builds up pressure in the crankcase. Pressure is relieved at PCV into air intake stream. Problem is, this air is very saturated with fine oil droplets. Not sure you'd want to mess with adding an oil catch can, as the elongated air passage would reduce the pressure differential at the PCV, and delay the threshold when PCV lets air through. This means crankcase will end up with higher equilibrium pressure than the system was designed.
Damn man. Great job!
Cheers.
We are going to check my son's 2014 6-speed 2.0 cx-5 for carbon buildup since his MPG is worse now. The car has 247,000 miles right now. No issues so far other than the deteriorating gas mileage. The car never been to a dealer, all maintenance was done by owner. The fuel filter and spark plugs were replaced recently
you will definately notice better mpg after cleaning the carbon build up on these cars and the car will runs smooth and happy again.
So the alleged fuel savings of GDI engines are eaten up by additional maintenance costs for nett gain of zero. Well done engineers !
More like well done bureaucrats. I guarantee you the engineers knew this was going to be a problem, but they have their hands tied by ever-tightening fuel efficiency regulations which forced them to go to GDI tech. Those regulations conflict with the other regulations that say you can't vent PCV to the atmosphere. Honestly I think the PCV regulations have some merit, as venting PCV to atmosphere means you're literally blowing oil out onto the road. But fuel efficiency regulations are based on fear mongering about global warming, I don't think GDI is justified from either an economic or environmental perspect, it's total B.S. Even with the new dual injection engines, I have to wonder how much extra that adds to the cost of the car compared to the fuel savings from the GDI system.
Exactly. Blame the EPA and congress, consisting of people who've never engineered or designed anything in their lives for directing unrealistic timelines to develop complex systems all so they can look like they're doing something.
The engineers are definitely at fault. There are many ways for them to have anticipated and avoided this problem. For starters, a catch can** would reduce this build up tremendously, and it's odd that someone who has done this job repeatedly (apparently) doesn't put one in. It's cheap and doesn't impact economy. And additionally a small amount of port injection as well as direct would also have helped in the design of the engine with almost no hit to fuel economy. You can take advantage of the direct injection flow control as a component of the total and it will be sufficient. Toyota does this.
Also, this "net gain of zero" depends on your perspective. Almost certainly, if you have this done regularly the at a garage the net gain is negative in terms of financial cost. Conversely, regardless of cost, less fuel consumed will be an environmental benefit. And the more it costs you to maintain the less you'll drive it, resulting in even more environmental benefit. So some folks might see it as a plus regardless. Although, I'm pretty sure none of them will actually own a GDI.
** The "catch can" mentioned in the video isn't a proper catch can to prevent carbon build up. I don't even know what he was talking about. There's nothing on these between the PCV and the intake manifold but a hose.
Another Trump idiot that still think that carburetor is better than efi eh!? Toyota, BMW and others have fix this issue by using Both Direct and port injection system. BTW this is very weird, in the US this Mazdas after breaking up with Ford and using their "skyactiv technology" have been very reliable with no problem what so ever. Gotta make sure to service the car properly...
Thanks to the fucking EPA
Dobra robota Pozdrawiam z Poland
cheers bro
You're a competent mechanic. You've done this before haven't you :)
Felix is very articulate and professional not to mention good videography skills. I would say he is not only a competent technician, but a good teacher as well.
@@networth8754 thank you sir appreciate the support.
I'm planning on doing this on my 2016 Mazda6. Also will install oil catch can to prevent this from building up in the first place.
you will see the gains :) 👍👍👍
Hi Felix! Your videos are really great and so far I was able to do most of the tutorials you made. But this one I really like to clean my IV and Im so hesitant to do specifically in the turning of the crank pulley. All the rest was easy. How do you ensure valves are in perfect close position? What if some chemical and residue start to drip in combustion chamber? Thats the dilemma Im having right now.
You can get a friend to rotate the crank pulley whilst shine a light on to the intake manifold ports you will be able to see when it closed fully and open. Small drips of residue left over from the cleaner is alright nothing to worry. But i would not start the car if the large debris fall into the combustion chamber / pistons.
@@FelixDanGarasiAuto om felix brti cleanerny gasoline basis ya… so nothing to worry that much if drips happen?
@@ROSEMARY-gl7wx Drips nya jgn kebanyakan .bisa pake yg waterbase juga gpp. gasoline base jg gpp.
If it makes any of you feel better, this is roughly 6 times easier than a VW TSI engine. This looks like a fucking breeze by comparison.
@Douglas Alexis Nobody gives a shit, piss off!
that's what you get when you buy a VW.
Wow nice job!
Felix, you make this seem so simple, I decided to try it. It actually was harder than I expected. I have a 2.5 engine, and finding all the clips on the intake manifold was a major pain. One of them is impossible to see, and after 1/2 hour, I was pissed and just pryed it off. I had let the B-12 soak/brush each intake at least four times, and also used it to clean the intake manifold passages. Then sprayed everything with carb cleaner, and cleaned with brake clean. All those solvents combined made my engine hard to start after everything was put back together. Eventually it turned over, and then I got a P0421 CEL. I thought the O2 sensors were damaged, or worse the cat. Thankfully, Scotty Kilmer came to the rescue and 1 gallon of laquer thinner cleared the CEL. Next time I have a car with bad carbon buildup, I'd seriously consider hiring someone to do this job.
hehe its not as easy as in the video right 😆. I also had some issue with the annoying clips as they are pain to remove. Thats good that u got it all sorted 👍🏼 the car feels great after this service right ?
Yes, I was absolutely thrilled after everything was put back together! Since the throttle body was off anyway, I cleaned that with carb cleaner. I have much better throttle response. Unfortunately my P0421 came back. I used a OBII scanner, looked at the live data, and the Bank 1 Sensor 1 seems to have wildly fluctuating voltages. I've ordered another O2 sensor and hopefully this takes care of the problem. I'd recommend people to swap an old O2 sensor for the good one once the engine gets settled.
I would recommend not using carb cleaner like I did. Only solvents that are O2 sensor safe.
BTW the bolt in the middle of the manifold is tough to screw back on. I used a strong magnetic pick up and used that like a screw driver to get the bolt started.
You shouldn't have a CEL. I'm guessing one of your valves was not fully closed, resulting in the various solvents you used make its way into the combustion chamber.
how do you rotate the engine, so that the other cylinders are in a closed position?
great video! you’re helping so many people!
rotate the crank pulley slowly and get other person to watch the intake valve moves open and closes.
@@FelixDanGarasiAuto thank you! I've been watching more of your channel - it's been super informative & practical 👏
I rotate it with my cock...jk 😂. But I had the same quest❤❤
I might consider doing this on my 2015 Mazda 6. Looks like it's not a very difficult job to do. Mazda seems to have made the CX-5 and the 6 pretty easy to service. Unfortunately, I won't know how bad the carbon buildup is until I get the intake manifold off and take a look.
Kent, did you perform the carbon cleaning procedure on your 2015 Mazda 6 2.5L? I have the same vehicle. Any issues for you during the cleaning?
Also consider installing oil catch can while you at it. It works great. th-cam.com/video/wwshYqm4cH8/w-d-xo.html
@@FelixDanGarasiAutoI've read condensation and ice can form in these. Any truth?
@@ericfranke1637 i have not got a clue mate as i dont live in snowy / cold area.
Guys he has a pal turn the engine by hand while he watches to see when the valves are closed. Thats how he knows when the valves are f#@kin closed. Read his answers and stop asking the same questios 500 times!!!❤❤
thank you sir for making it easier for me haha🫡
Run a can of crc intake cleaner or sea foam every other oil change through the intake and you’ll be golden. No carbon buildup at all. Be sure to change oil afterwards. Nice job and great video.
Thanks for the info
@@FelixDanGarasiAuto I like what you showed. That’s what you have to do if the motor is neglected overtime. Great job of showing how it’s done without the excess crap music and what not. Do you use b12 stuff a lot? I’ve never really used on much except dealing with carbs that have been gummed up. It works well for that I know.
@@ohboy2592 i dont use the b12 chemtool a lot. but i know that this product is a very good product from my previous carbon build up service.
@@FelixDanGarasiAuto thank you.
You are an amazing mechanic. You make it look so simple yet I know it’s not. I have a 2018 Mazda CX-5. Do you think that the CRC Intake valve cleaner used like every 10,000 miles would maintain the valves clean? Also, I saw your video on accessing the transmission fluid dipstick. Mazda could just have added a long tube and dipstick so that the transmission fluid could be checked more easily. Even basic maintenance checks are becoming more complicated in modern vehicles. Great vids.
Gerardo Pietrantoni thank you sir. With this gdi engine its going to hard to say wether the crc intake valves cleaner will break out all the carbon deposits. But if you do it regularly saying about 5000kms rather than 10000kms i am sure the chemicals will helps loosen some carbon deposits on the intake valves and give some lubrication to the intake valves to prevents further carbon build up , But just a note that with this service i had to scrape off the stubborn carbon on this vehicle i doubt just by spraying will remove the carbon deposits.
Felix Dan Thank you! I usually change the oil every 5000kms. I’ll do it every oil change just to help prevent significant carbon buildup Thank you again.
@@gerardopietrantoni6452 I have used the CRC many, many times and believe it does help if you stay on top of it from the beginning. It is NOT likely to do much if you’re trying to remove large carbon deposits. One word of caution when using it... make sure to follow the instructions to the letter and when you do your drive after the heat soak, drive slowly or you will hear a loud knocking noise and you will likely throw the engine into limp mode. Instead, go out to the highway slowly and build up to about 60-65 mph and drive it at that speed for about 10 miles. After that, you can begin to drive/accelerate normally. For the next few miles, drive it like you stole it. If you do encounter the limp mode, pull off to the side, and power cycle the engine to clear it.
@@gerardopietrantoni6452Why not change the oil every 1000km???
I am wondering did you spray those carbon cleaner directly inside the intake valve and let it sit there and use brush to get those gunk out is it
Yes sir and a vacuum to extract the debris.
Good job!! Those aerosol cleaners wont clean like this,a little more time but best reaults hands down!! Like new!!
Thank you sir.
Great job. Thanks
No problem
The joys of direct injection
install these to save your DI engine and prolongs the use of the engine th-cam.com/video/wwshYqm4cH8/w-d-xo.html
Very informative. I'm surprised that much carbon build-up in only 28,000 km (17,000 miles). Also, it must be nice to have a garage to work in. You must be doing very good financially over there in Indonesia. Is it true cars cost 3 times as much over there as in the United States?
Thank you sir. Yes you are correct cars here cost abit more than overseas. Please consider to support this channel just by clicking subscribe :) and to get the most of the latest video dont forget to hit that bell too :) thank you sir.
Same as in singapore and malaysia. Im in malaysia and my wife's mazda2 skyactiv cost RM90k ( USD1 = RM4.1)
Great video!
Thank you :))
I was surprised when I realized that you are residing in Indonesia
バユイト he is leaving Medan, and fueling in Polonia fuel station. In front old airport.
@@cheerpolo hehehe.
very informative im another subscriber!!! , Question : did you loosen the pulley near the front wheel of the car or had to remove it and why do we need to do that?? is that to loosen the intake manifold or other parts? and when putting the intake manifold back on did you align it through the bolts first? Im use this guide on my 2016 Mazda 6. Thank you!.
You welcome . I did not loosen any pulley. I only rotate the crank pulley to shut off the intake valves. Yes i did re align it back after bolt everything back together.
hey thanks for the response, is it really necessary to rotate crank pulley and shut off the intake valves before doing all of this work? Wanted to skip that step but is it recommended? also is there any engine programming on the MAP or anything needed on the car if i replace the whole intake manifold with a new one? I wanted to be in tip top shape. Thanks again!!!
@@HKiddo theres no reprogramming toola for the MAP sensor , just make sure disconnect the battery prior doing this service. It not not recommended to skip this steps. U will need to rotate the crank pulley to close the intake valves when cleaning otherwise should you apply the cleaner into the valves it will just enter into the combustion chamber which will not be good for the engine will damage piston n rings and other things.
ah ok thanks for the suggestion, i appreciate it. so when you say "rotate the crank pulley to close the intake valves", does that mean loosen (or tighten) it with the 21m socket as mentioned in ur video? Thats the part i get a little confused on cuz i dont wana mistake it....while u brushing the intake valves, did u suck the oil residue in the little bottle with something?..and when we done cleaning the intake valves, should the crank pulley be rotated again either to loosen or tighten as the last step? Thanks for your tips, anything else besides the video i def should know about would be very helpful.. wana make sure before i do this for the first time! thanks again!!! i just cleaned throttle body and MAF on my mazda skyactiv using ur videos!!! Great one
@@HKiddo awsome. turn the crank pulley clockwise and get another person to watch the intake valves shuts and open. Yes you will need to have a suction tool it would be better as you want minimal particle to be going back in into the combustion chamber .
Tanks nice to see and good clear English
thx man i really appreciate that.
Hi Felix,
My mazda3 2.0L skyactiv has 128k km and no sign of increase fuel consumption or other issue. The cleaning you did does not seem to be something I will enjoy, so when the issue will show its teeth, I will probably try the CRC spray and if that will not work I will probably trade-in for one with hybrid injection... and my cx5 will follow the same path. Very instructive video, thanks.
Please use CRC valve cleaner next time as directed.... then take the cover off so we can see if it did anything. Love your vids. Also, why take out the spark plugs? did you put new ones in?
BigDog no worries i will schedule for the next video in the future. I took off the spark plugs so i can turn the engine easily.
Tanks Felix, also does car need to be in Neutral to turn it and close the valves?
BigDog yes put it in Neutral . And have the hand brake up .
Felix Dan thanks Felix you’re great help!
Good thing i checked these comments lol
Oh my word, if this car only has 28000 KM I should def do this on my 2014. I'm already at 110000KM, and I have noticed that it's accelerating pretty rough and just doesn't sound like it use to when it only had 60000km.
I think mine due to mainly traffic jam. That is why theres alot of carbon build up. But... yeah if your car suffering from a rough accelaration please do this service it will help the engine performance.
Nice that if you have one valve in each hole not 2 with a divider between them that will be difficult with a brush like in maxima 2012 but good job man and ac.delco carborator cleaner is doing the same job 👍 but the problem in the brushing 😅
Yeah lucky that this car have the intake valve facing the front for easy access for service.
No ones engine in the USA looks anything like that at 25,000 miles. So anyone watching this from there, you’re fine. And don’t worry about it for at least 100K. Just follow the Mazda maintenance guidelines in your owners manual. That’s why they’re there... Still, neat video. I think the bigger problem is that the cyclists don’t even have to pretend to even follow basic rules of the road. Also strange there aren’t any lines on the road. It amazes me that there isn’t just constant car accidents in places like this.
I was in the market looking for a new SUV and Mazda was my top choice, but to have to perform this type of work on such a young engine is insane. For the same reason I wouldn't buy a vehicle with the old DI system. This is just unacceptable. I've had to remove the intake manifold and valve covers once on my 2005 Accord to replace gaskets on 2017 with 140k Miles on the car. the engine inside looked clean and beautiful. Peace
Hey Anthony. Personally i think all newer engine will have similar issues most of them will have GDI engines . Just that it is all depends again how you maintain the vehicle at the start of ownership. Then again carbon build up issue will vary from one car to another , depends on what fuel we using for the vehicle and how's the car been driven in everyday basis. I was performing this service to give some idea , heads up to all mazda owners what they have to look for if they are experiencing bad milage not perform well not as expected. This maybe due to the condition of our fuel, driving styles mainly start stop in city driving (40km/h) daily. We dont get to see highways alot that also one possibilities why theres carbon build up on a young engines. But overall what i analyse from reviews comparing japanese brand manufacture not to say they are bad .... but personally i think the newer Mazda have created one of a good engines for users and they are easy to maintain and access. Hope this will give you some light about choosing your next SUV.
Nearly all car builders have gone to this flawed design in order to meet the ridiculous CAFE regulation of "54.5 MPG by 2024" imposed by Obama in 2010. Trump intervened and froze it at 38 MPG recently, but it's still way too high. So don't expect to see DI go away anytime soon.
In the meantime, Toyota has added Dual Injection (port and direct) to their entire fleet today. It's the only car company who has done it so far. I've got my eye on the 2019 RAV4 now.
@@shralperx Ford is doing the same on their F150 V8.
@@mikey27437 True, but Ford has a long way to go to add Dual Injection to all their vehicles. I believe they got sued for carbon buildup on the F-150, which motivated them to fix it.
or get those port + direct injection ones for example the toyota D4S kind
*looks like already mentioned by some post up there about port+direct injection
How did u rotate the engine? Noob here
Use the ratchet and socket and turn the crank pulley .
Thanks for your video guys
No problem bro. Glad you enjoy it.
Nice Vid Got similar Issues among other's, Got a GDI Plus CVT Trans.... LOL....
MarcasswellbMD
I will never everrrrr purchase any type of car with a turbo engine, CVT, GDI at alllll
@@Sazonman I'm Real Proud of U.........
Isn't there an easier way , using the CRC Intake valve spray ? But that needs to be doneevery 7-10 K miles , still easier. It also takes time with the one hour heat soaking , and then 30 minute expressway driving , but less work for many less experienced people.
This method could also work just fine if done correctly and and at regular intervals. But do not expect that it will remove the stubborn baked up carbon deposits on tge valves because without actuall scrubbing and extract it out . There wont be any easier method to clean them manually (proffesionally).
CRC 100% will not come close to this level of clean. I did the CRC/Seafoam intake cleaning for several years (at least every 10000km - sometimes 5000 km) and at 50k i took off the manifold like in this video here and did a manual cleaning. It was pretty bad (worse than here). Hyundai lambda 2 GDI engine.
How do you know that 2 and 4 are completely closed and how much rotation to get 1 and 3 completely closed?
Having a spotter tell you “when” is the easiest way. If the Buildup makes it hard to tell, then you can put a long screwdriver, or extension in the spark plug hole and watch it reach its peak at TDC. This will ensure the valves are fully shut.
What is the “tdc”?
@@bobbypols1096 Top dead center (TDC) is the position of an engine's piston when it is at the very top of its stroke.
@@FelixDanGarasiAuto thanks felix!
Is there a gauge on the engine that lets you know when you're TDC?
Hello. You should have bought CRC intake valve cleaner. The product will allow your to spray inside the intake behind MAS or through PCV hose (3:34). Save you a lot of work.
Will give it a try next time .
Felix Dan If you did please record a video. Thanks!
Fahed noori i will do my best to record it for my next service .
I am only a DIY mechanic but doesn't this process only clean the valves in the front end of the engine; how do you, and can you get to the valves in the rear of the engine?
You r indeed correct sir . If the intake manifold positioned on the rear side . We will need a proper tool. Walnut blast will be the best .
Thanks for the quick response but I have a CX-5 like in video with the intake manifold on the front of the engine. The question is even with this does this process only clean half the valves and with this engine can you get to the rear valves?
@@sleamhnan oh i get what u mean now sorry i didnt quiet get what you mean before. But to clean the rear side i did use tool pick with an angle points , u can actually feel and scrape similar to dentist type of tool pick and clean the deposit off the rear side of the valves and it is sufficient to remove the carbon deposits as per this video my carbon deposits were not too tough to remove by chemical and bit of scrubbing and scraping with the tool pick i was able to remove all carbon deposits.
If you mean the exhaust valves, they won't need to be done, most of the gunk gets burnt off as the hot gas passes them.
@@apassionfortangling3671 👍👍👍
How's the fuel quality where you live? Must be pretty poor by the looks of that build up.
we get a pretty bad quality fuel here . Thank you for your time tuning in , please do not forget to subscribe and like this video :)
its Direct Injection, fuel doesn't touch the intake valves, this is from oil vapor (with a little fuel vapor) that causes these deposits
Great video sir keep it up I would love to see o2 sensors change I have a code from 70k miles and it’s lower bank o2 would love if you could do that cheers
Will do
When I replaced intake manifold on my Corolla at 140000 miles my valves a zero deposits on them.Two things that helped, I have multi port injection which cause gasoline to wash the valves.I also only buy top tier gasoline.
correct if your car have multinport injection you dont have to worry about carbon build up on the intake valves .
Wow, I never seen a KFC connected to a gas station before.
Only in Indonesia & Malaysia
haha now uve seen it 😂
You don't show us how you close intake valve , please i need to know ❤️❤️
Easiest way is you will need to get somebody to turn the crank pulley for you and whilst turning you can take a look within the intake valve ports if it is shuts properly. Easy peasy.
Felix Dan thank you for this beautiful channel ❤️❤️
Appreciated bro. Consider subscribing to get the most updates on this channel :) . Thank you again for you supports.
Felix Dan i,ll but make more about Mazda Because I can't find anyone on TH-cam who know about skyactiv engine except you 👌🏻
@@Dhomqxwill do , for sure my fella brother.
Great job and well explained. What is your opinion about using the intake valve cleaners like CRC that is directly sprayed through the intake with engine running and does not require disassembly of the intake manifold which is a harder job and requires more skill level an tools.
rc max thank you. To be honest i have never done it myself with that method on this skyactiv engine so i cant really comment much. But i have heard with spray method does the job if applied regularly. But i am not 100% sure if it can clean off the stubborn carbon fully.
You risk of clogging the catalytic converter with carbon deposits this method is better.dont get lazy get to work it might take you twice the time but is doable is just a car not a rocket.
When you removed the intake manifold, there was a tube attached to a catch can. Is it difficult to unattach and attach when the intake manifold is removed? Thanks.
Wasnt that difficult at all. :)
How is your driving style? Having that much carbon at under 30.000 KMs is not normal.
We have alot of heavy traffic . Lot of Start stop driving . Not even pass 40km/h at most of the time .
my 2012 mazda 3 skyactiv with 6 speed manual has 210k miles. I checked my valves for the 1st time just recently. Mine look no worse than the ones shown in this video with way, waaay more miles driven. What i have learned about direct injected engines (at least mazdas) is that they like to be driven HARD. the more often you can do wide open throttle acceleration, and rev up to high RPM the better. The skyactiv 2.0 is not a very powerful engine, so you can actually run through multiple gears very aggressively and not exceed the speed limit. the same cant be said for VW brand direct injected engines. they just suck
I see.... Maybe you do have to drive it hard ... downside is you will break the engine even faster if you do it everytime... hehehehe
@@FelixDanGarasiAuto LOL. with over 210k miles on it, i got my moneys worth a long time ago. the car has never cost me a penny for a repair. i have done fluid changes, brakes and tires. thats it. never seen a service shop once in its life
Is this what some call an Italian tune up?
@@loden888 sure is..!!
Hello Sir, thank you for the tutorial. How did you rotate and which specific tool did you use. Thank you for your hard work.
in this video i use ratchet with socket 21mm to turn the crank pulley.
Ane kira video luar negeri, ehh pas lihat aki nya kok di shop and drive😂😆
Lanjutkan bos, mantap..!!!
Haha same same bro. Subscribe ya bos.
Inggrisnya bagus, petunjuk gampang di follow dan bikin video nya cocok sekali
@@danmyname trima kasi bang.
@@FelixDanGarasiAuto Mas, saya baru beli CX5 yg model paling terakhir. Mazda CX5 mantap sekali dinaikin.
@@danmyname mantep ya mas bro. The best ya .
Gasoline in Indonesia and other 3rd world countries is very high in sulfur which causes coking and carbon buildup. This buildup is non-existent in the USA. Great video for Indonesia tho.
Thank you den demron :)
This is happening in the US as well on Gas Direct Injection Vehicles. Theres no gas cleaning the intake valves when it shoots straight into the cylinder head. It has nothing to do with the gas itself, it is a design issue on modern engines.
@@buffhorses very true indeed.
Honestly doesnt look that bad. I doubt that would cause any sort of performance issues.
I was thinking the same.
I totally agree, until the buildup becomes thick and robust enough to significantly interfere with air flow it shouldn't be a problem. When it's bad enough you usually get misfires at idle and throw a code. I've always wondered how much of the deposits are oil being sucked down the valve stem and not getting washed off by the old port injection?
@@Kwisatzhaderachgiveadogabone not sure, but Mazda engineered the valves to get hot enough so it will never get that bad. Even if it starts, Italian tuneup will fix it
Great job
no problms
Thank you for this great video. This is next thing in my list to do since I have mis fire issue. I was wondering if you have any information about how to clean and change the fuel injectors for 2014 CX-5 sky active engine. Thank you
Thank you man. Really appreciate the kind words n support to this channel. 🙏🏼
Wife's toothbrush works best
Make sure she doesnt use it anymore. Otherwise she would kill you. 🤣
Hahaha!!! 🤣🤣🤣 Love It 🤣
The government needs to band GDI engines from the U.S. ..
Funny you say that, because the whole reason most car manufacturers have gone to GDI engines in the first place was due to the government regulations. Obama used his dictatorial pen-and-phone in 2010 to force manufacturer's car fleets (CAFE) to average 54.5 MPG by 2024. This was an impossible-to-reach goal without going to primarily Electric Vehicles (Obama even admitted his goal was 1/3 of all vehicles to be EVs by 2024).
So the car builders added GDI in order to eek out another 1-2 MPG in the short term, even though they knew about the design flaw they introduced. By the time carbon deposits start building up, it's YOUR problem, not their's. Don't blame them though. They were given an impossible task. Ironically, any real MPG gains are quickly lost due to the disruption of airflow to the engine as carbon deposits build up.
Thank God Trump froze Obama's disastrous new CAFE standard to about 38 MPG. It's still way too high though. The damage to engine designs has already been done.
Toyota is the only company that has addressed the problem on their entire fleet by adding dual injection (port and direct). My next vehicle will be a Toyota.
@@shralperx 1) Yes we can blame the manufactures as there is known technology that fixes this problem (dual port injection) 2) 1-2 mpg increase is not correct. 3) Yes thank god we now have a reality star president who doesnt understand/or is paid to look away from the science.
Why dont you drive you your nearest university and learn about global warming. You can start in the chemistry lab and start with the green house effect. Good luck.
@@BoogieDownProduction 1) Obama's CAFE and first-ever CO2 regs have already caused the price of cars to increase about $3500. With car prices already averaging $30K, most companies aren't willing to add another $700-$1000 to the price. R&D and more injectors all cost more money. Plus DI requires a super high pressure fuel pump which means the system is more prone for problems. Port injection was just fine, thank you .
2) Yes, 1-2 mpg is about the average gain, and it's quickly lost when carbon starts building up and airflow is disrupted.
3) The man-made Global Warming scare is the biggest scam ever pushed upon the world. It's not even worth getting into here, except to say that thousands of scientist disagree but are exiled as 'deniers.' Money and politics have completely corrupted the 'scientific' community who rely on government funding for their livelihoods. I don't need to drive to a university to know that more CO2 = more GREEN and more warmth = more GREEN. To deny it is to deny basic science. Who are the real deniers here? I suggest you research the other side instead of just believing what you have been told.
@@shralperx Thousands of scientists disagree? You live in lala land. I have multiple science degrees (including chemistry, biology and a MS), based on your simplistic "more CO2 = more GREEN and more warmth = more GREEN" I can see why you are so confused your understanding of science is limited at best. You just proved the dangers of the internet, you can find the answers online but if you are not smart you can end up believing in lizard people/chemtrails/flat earth/more CO2=good. Dunning Kruger effect is strong with this one.
So if there is only a 1-2 mpg gain then why are manufactures spending money on R&D for a 1-2 mpg increase? Funny that you dont see that your argument goes both ways.
what if you didn't reroute the "out" of the catch can (or the PCV system) back into the intake of the engine? wouldn't that solve the problem with DI because nothing from the PCV is going back over the intake valves? i was thinking just feed a hose down to the bottom of the car from the PCV like those that drain A/C condensation.
I am now close to 60,000 km on my Mazda 6 diesel. I might try this when I reach 100,000 km. Car is mostly driven on highways.
Highway driven engines have way less issues.
true that.
@@somap8380
That is comforting to know. Someone from the Mazda 6 forum has 200,000 miles (not kilometers) and has no issues. I think his car is mostly highway driven.
Good job
cheers ✌🏻
The easiest way to keep your valves clean is not to buy direct injection in the first place.
You are 100% right, but why are you wasting time watching this video?
This was a really excellent video... it's how all "how to" videos should be done. But why didn't you use a walnut blaster? Admittedly the results seemed pretty good. Perhaps this was based the car had so few miles/km on it.
Walnut blast we do not have .
Great Video. Questions:
1) What is the Oil catch can on min 8:26 ?
2) Where does the oil look alike come from on min 10:50
Hi thank you for tuning in. The oil seperator is fitted on these engine but it doesnt really do the job that well. The dirty oil is the residue cleanse from using the chemical. Please watch my other video for oil catch can install. 😎
Hello, thank you for your video, just a question, for what I understood, you turn the crank pulley to close the valves to clean it, am I right? And what kind of cleaner do I need to do this job?
Thank you for the support, Yes use the crank pulley to open n closes the valves. For the cleaner i use Berryman Total fuel cleaner it does the job very well.
thx u so much to making this video , i would like to know , what is the purpose that we have to rotate of crank shaft pulley?
Aditya Noor Maulana to open and closes the valves . Because we dont want chemicals cleaners and dirt to fall down into the combustion chamber as it will potentially ruin the piston walls and other components.
well understood...thank you so much, i will try later...👍👍👍
Trims bang... saya pek cx5 juga... salam dari palembang
mantap bg bro :)