I checked a 120-volt outlet with a centech. It worked fine on the 120. I had a Samsung stove at a rental property that just got fried with a 220 v outlet. I tried to test the three prong 220-volt outlet with the same device. I couldn't get any reading. Is it possible the prongs aren't long enough for the 220 v outlet? Is there a certain area where the prongs go into the three-prong device in order to work? I went ahead and plugged in the new range which is an LG😮 and it works fine. I'm concerned now that I couldn't get a reading, but I'll get another fried range. All of the harness wires in the back of the Samsung we're fried and charred.
Excellent information for the new schoolers. I personally never thought of a 4 wire range or dryer miswired even though you measure 240 volts across the two sides, 120 volt from each hot to neutral, finally 120 volt from each hot to ground, if the neutral and ground are crisscrossed. That being said, as a professional yourself, have you ever ran into a miswired situation, say on a 3 wire dryer outlet, where on a service call, where you measured 120 volts between the two hots, 240 volts between the left hot and neutral, and 120 volt between the right hot and neutral indicating you right hot and neutral are reverse?? Also, I think it would be awesome if you can make a video on how to diagnose a miswired range and dryer outlet, for the 3 and 4 slot versions, based on your meter readings and maybe include a chart with the possible mishaps, like you find on your typical 3 light outlet tester, or what my coworker referred to as the three eyed liar, since there are certain situations that can make it read correct wiring when in fact you have a dangerous condition, eg. An older property has been converted to 3 slot receptacles and the installer use a short jumper from the neutral to ground terminals to avoid fail an inspection due to open grounds.
Hey cam you help me, I tested a 3 prong dryer outlet that only put out 0.110V from neutral to hot and 0.47V from ground to hot. The regular 120V outlets are putting up readings of 125V and 12V from ground. Regular outlets work fine but the dryer doesn't heat coils but all the sensors all tested good. So it doesn't dry cloths. I'm almost positive it's the outlet now. But how do I test the outlet and wires going to outlet. In your professional experience have you ever come across a low reading like this. If so what was the cause?
Hey bud what do think about the multi meters that measure current via the prongs instead of the clamp method? Have any recommendations for those types of meters?
What does it mean if there is no reading when hot to neutral gives no reading? Good video. Thanks
I can’t find the link to the Fluke multimeter
I checked a 120-volt outlet with a centech. It worked fine on the 120. I had a Samsung stove at a rental property that just got fried with a 220 v outlet. I tried to test the three prong 220-volt outlet with the same device. I couldn't get any reading. Is it possible the prongs aren't long enough for the 220 v outlet? Is there a certain area where the prongs go into the three-prong device in order to work? I went ahead and plugged in the new range which is an LG😮 and it works fine. I'm concerned now that I couldn't get a reading, but I'll get another fried range. All of the harness wires in the back of the Samsung we're fried and charred.
Hi
What if I don’t have any reading a cross the two hot wires! What could be the problem?
Excellent information for the new schoolers. I personally never thought of a 4 wire range or dryer miswired even though you measure 240 volts across the two sides, 120 volt from each hot to neutral, finally 120 volt from each hot to ground, if the neutral and ground are crisscrossed. That being said, as a professional yourself, have you ever ran into a miswired situation, say on a 3 wire dryer outlet, where on a service call, where you measured 120 volts between the two hots, 240 volts between the left hot and neutral, and 120 volt between the right hot and neutral indicating you right hot and neutral are reverse?? Also, I think it would be awesome if you can make a video on how to diagnose a miswired range and dryer outlet, for the 3 and 4 slot versions, based on your meter readings and maybe include a chart with the possible mishaps, like you find on your typical 3 light outlet tester, or what my coworker referred to as the three eyed liar, since there are certain situations that can make it read correct wiring when in fact you have a dangerous condition, eg. An older property has been converted to 3 slot receptacles and the installer use a short jumper from the neutral to ground terminals to avoid fail an inspection due to open grounds.
Lmbo three eyed liar 😂 and good recommendation as well! Thank you!
very helpful thanks! keep it up more videos 😁
Thank you, let's get to it!
Hey cam you help me, I tested a 3 prong dryer outlet that only put out 0.110V from neutral to hot and 0.47V from ground to hot.
The regular 120V outlets are putting up readings of 125V and 12V from ground.
Regular outlets work fine but the dryer doesn't heat coils but all the sensors all tested good. So it doesn't dry cloths.
I'm almost positive it's the outlet now. But how do I test the outlet and wires going to outlet.
In your professional experience have you ever come across a low reading like this. If so what was the cause?
Yay!! Thank you!!! Your so smart!!
So what danger do 3 prongs present and why did we switch to 4 prong?
This is perfect and answered all of my questions!
Hey bud what do think about the multi meters that measure current via the prongs instead of the clamp method? Have any recommendations for those types of meters?
Any method is fine if the meter is built for it.
Always go with a Fluke or other solid name brand.
Check reviews!!
I'm getting only 238 and 118 volts. What is going on?
How we know the AMP measure?