There are lots of comments here about dangerous DIYers, but the two potentially disastrous wiring problems I have experienced were caused by so-called professionals: utility line workers. For 30-some years I have owned a second home on the Oregon Coast. Twice in that time I have replaced the SEP. The first was to update an obsolete 125-amp panel to a 200-amp Square D. One night I arrived during heavy rain to find the lights flickering or inoperable. Upon inspection in the basement, the entire panel looked and sounded like an arc welder. I didn’t dare touch the thing to flip the main breaker, so I poked at the breaker with a wooden broom handle during arcing (so I could see) until I killed the power. The next day I realized what had happened: wind-driven rain had entered the SEP mast, flowed past the meter and entered the box, where it began destroying its guts, all without tripping the main breaker. And all because the line crew that connected the house to the utility system had pointed the weather head at the nearby ocean, allowing wind-driven rain to reach the SEP. On another occasion when I arrived at the house every light burned out as soon as I tried to turn it on, and the refrigerator was not functioning. I soon determined that every outlet in the house was supplying 240 volts. All because inadequate work by another line crew had allowed the supply lines to short and double the voltage throughout the building. The utility worker who responded to my call shook his head, redid the connections and said something about colleagues who insisted on doing work the old-fashioned way. The blazing hot GE fridge compressor eventually cooled and the thing kept working. I’m no electrician, but have been doing all my own work for 40 years, starting with the updating of a 100-amp panel in a knob-and-tube system in my first home, built in the 1930s. That panel, itself a presumed upgrade of the original fuse box, was a terrifying rat’s nest of wires, done by a local “electrician” known to my elderly neighbor. I am pretty sure that the electrician’s helper was Jack Daniels. Some years later, when a Realtor friend wanted me to see a mess of a house that had just come on the market, I put it together that the enormous, haphazard jumble of electrical supplies could only have belonged to that same brain-fried electrician. Yes, plenty of work is done by DIYers who shouldn’t be near electricity. But every professional here has stories like this of jobs done by lazy, incompetent or drunk electricians.
You forgot mistake #11 that you demonstrated in the video: Waving your hands cavalierly around a panel with the cover removed and then tightening the screws on the hot lead of a breaker without switching it off. Even with an insulated screwdriver this is an unnecessary risk, particularly for a nonprofessional. And waving your hands around the lugs where the entrance cable connects is just asking to touch a hot lead by mistake.
Good grief keep your hands away from those wires. Very unsafe to do this, especially that you were waving your hands near the wires and looking at the camera. Use an insulated screwdriver to point out things, not your fingers.
I agree completely, although it should be MISTAKE #1. The first words out of his mouth should have been to turn the main breaker off. Additionally, he’s not wearing any eye protection. You make a mistake and short something and you are now arc welding and molten metal will be shooting around.
Thank You sir ! As a retired Journeyman Electrician with more than 50 years of experience in the field I saw more than my share of the "rats nest" type of panels, gasoline stations that had been remodeled several times. I couldn't always make them look perfect, but I tried. Any of the new Installations that I worked on, looked like the 3 phase panel you showed. When I upgraded my own residence from 70 amp Zinsco to a 200 amp Homeline all my wires were formed and marked. When the city inspector came for final inspection he was taken aback and had to take a picture of the work. It is sad to say that too many tradesmen do not take pride in their work and only do the minimum.
This is not a 3 phase panel. It is a sub-panel, with two hots and one neutral cable, which are all insulated. The center conductor has a white stripe, and is the neutral, and not the third phase. There is also a ground cable, which is not insulated.
I’m sure your fire department and insurance company thanked you for changing out that Zinsco. Given the issues with the Zinsco breakers, you saved yourself quite a headache.
@@hsailer No -- @13:04 the panel with the nice wiring IS a 3 phase panel (black - red - blue) with the neutral (black wire with white tape on it) coming down the left side and the ground wire on the right side 🤨
@@hsailer I could not tell if neutral had bonding screw in or not in this vid, but the point is super important. On any service, only one point is needed for referencing neutral to earth, otherwise ground loop issues may emerge, and as we all know... lightning takes ALL paths to ground. A sub panel must not duplicate neutral to earth bond found at main panel. Anyway....sparkyman got it right. Cheers!
I love turning chaos panels into art! I done a panel during COVID shutdown when I was on layoff from my 9-5 and let me tell you it was the worst I'd seen, made the rats nest panel showed in this video look like a work of art. Well 2 days later a fully upgraded panel that looked beautiful, a fully rewired basement, and several changes in the main part of the house were complete and I was totally satisfied with my work. More so impressed was my buddy who hired me to do the work, he knew I had an electrical background but didn't realize I was that good. I just wish I could share the pictures here so you too could see what I walked into and how great it looked when I left. Oh and I didn't mention this place had more junction boxes than any 25 houses I've seen. I done away with as many as I could but to save money most of the old wiring stayed but I got it up to par as best I could with the budget he gave me to work with. Sparky for life.
You would have loved the control panel for dancing waters at Moody Gardens in Galveston, Tx.. One of the most beautiful wiring jobs I'be ever seen. Each and every wire was perfect as were the ty wraps. Each bundle was aligned perfectly and there were hundreds if not thousands of wires.
I need you badly for my basement... built in 1900 and remodeled four times. Two large breakers and two smaller ones... who knows where half the circuits go.
I have converted quite a few rat's nests, and the end result has always been quite satisfying. The irony is that you actually save time over the long run when you do work with a set methodology.
Although wiring a residential main panel to look like a machine tool panel with tight bends and labeling each conductor looks sharp I have always thought of the person that might have to work in the panel down the road. For this reason I forgo the form for function and provide a service loop when landing the hot/feed conductors! When done correctly it will look nice and allow for moving a circuit’s location without having to break out the cumbersome wire stretcher tool 😋
Sir, you need to be super, super clear that the mains hardware in the breaker box will be hot even if your breakers are switched off. If newbies follow your example in the video, they would feel safe touching the mains connections and bus bars. You should make it crystal clear that those are no-touch areas unless you are absolutely sure the power is disconnected to those mains (often requiring the power company to remove the electric meter from your service entry).
For this and other reasons I just replace my breaker box in my outbuilding [shop] with a version that has a main disconnect up top [main breaker]. It is a 100 amp panel. The other one was also a 100 amp panel but much smaller and no main breaker at top. Before I touch anything I test for voltage, I never assume anything with electricity.
@@robert5 I sometimes add a light above the panel board, feed through a 1A fuse, from the input side of the Main breaker. This means I can see what I am doing and working on in the Panel board, even when the main Breaker is OFF, but it confirms there is Voltage around.
When you color tape a white conductor to indicate a hot wire you absolutely must tape the other end where it terminates. A hot white wire in a box could be taken as a neutral and used opposite a hot from the opposite side of the panel resulting in a 240 volt feed applied to a 120 volt appliance.
This was my exact thought when the red tape was added to the wire in the panel (common mistake #7). Both ends of that wire need to be color coded in the same manner.
Yes. . . And on large cables, we also taped or marked them both sides of walls or bulkheads as well. . . I also number Outlets, with the Circuit Breaker number and it position in a circuit, such as CB4-3. . . Being the 3rd outlet feed from CB #4
@@slalomking If it's the secondary hot (240V circuit) it has to be a color other than black (or white, green, or bare). I carry black, red, blue, and green, giant "Sharpies" in my electrical tool bag to mark wires. I do it when I'm installing the circuit, so both ends get marked.
A few points: If you home is pre-2001, you won't see a yellow jacket on 12ga wire. That started becoming available in 2001, and older wire jacketing will be white, or possibly gray. Most new panels come with covers for the primary lugs. If your panel has a master breaker and it's turned off and the covers are in place, it becomes VERY difficult to accidentally ground those out. They're also available as an option for some older panels. It's within NEC code to have two ground wires under a single screw, but NOT for a neutral. The reason you see that in the example panel is because some bus bars don't come with all the screws populated. Of course, you should always check with the jurisdiction having authority. NEC is a top-level thing. A state, county, or city can have more stringent requirements than the NEC. Lastly, it's always wise to remove jewelry when working in a hot panel. If your ring or watch manages to bridge a hot and neutral or ground, it'll turn to molten metal pretty quick.
Great info and comments here! Thank you for sharing. I just installed a new sub panel yesterday and it didn't come with covers for the mains so I purchased them separately. Seems like $20 for two pieces of yellow plastic was way overpriced but I felt better having them in place, especially while I'm working on it. Again, great info on the sleeve colors, code and jewelry tip. I have switched to silicone watch band and ring but I suspect the watch body itself could still be an issue potentially.
I believe the NEC allowed 2 Neutrals on the same screw until the early 2000s (not sure the exact year) so if you see this in an older home, it may not be a case of laziness, but a change in code. I it is a good safety improvement to only have one wire on neutrals though, as it could cause arcing. It’s not a problem for ground wires, as they shouldn’t see any current, but are only there in case of an emergency.
Educated myself for years on how to upgrade my panel. However, never could bring myself to do it as I thought there might me something I did not know. So I finally bit the bullet, paid the good $$ and had a pro do it. Only things I learned watching the pro do it was 1} needed a new feed to upgrade to 200 and 2) use double pole breakers for those circuits that shared a neutral (which was a common practice 69 years ago). When explained to me as to why the double poles, it answered the question as to why I sometimes felt a little "bite" from neutrals when doing things like replacing outlets. Never saw my electrician use a torque driver when screwing down the connections. Thanks for the video!
I was trying to change an outlet a while back, upgrading to the deco style and couldn't find the right breaker. I kept turning off the breakers one at a time but it never lost power. Turns out one 15a breaker was connected to the top, and one 15a was connected to the bottom but the previous installer forgot to break the jumper lug. Gotta love the pros the new home builders use now a days. It should be noted I'm a DIYer who has done lots of electrical work but I won't touch a panel. Don't do flooring either, lol.
I'm an EE and a gearhead. I torque nearly everything on a car. Thank you for pointing out that there's a torque spec on breakers. Never even thought of it. So far using a little sense has kept me from burning any houses down but I will buy the proper tool for the job. Great channel!
Just think, it is in the electric code twice now. Once where it says to torque and once where it says to follow the listing and labeling instructions. NEC 110.14(D) and 110.3(B) However, I think I am the only Electrical contractor in the area that does torqueing.
I must admit that I had some bad experiences as a teen working with high voltage and was terrified to do anything in my box for years. Even something as simple as replacing a receptacle made me cringe. But when I realized the cost of adding a circuit for my shed, I decided it was time to get over my fear. I watched a number of TH-cam tutorials but yours was the best. Your videos gave me the confidence to do the job and the knowledge to do it right. I’m now working on replacing all the old wiring from the 1950s when the house was built and upgrading my box. I’m nearly done and will have an electrician check my work in a few days before the electric company turns everything back on. Thank you so much for being so informative and straight to the point in all your videos.
That’s amazing that you were able to overcome that fear and build that skill set too! I’m definitely still learning but it’s such a valuable ability to have. Best of luck with the house - sounds like you’ve got this under control. Thanks so much for watching too!
I'm the son of an journeyman electrician. I've replaced a few outlets or added a circuit to my own breaker panels once in a while. I have shocked myself a few times. But I've got to admit I still get the heebie-jeebies when I see a breaker panel with the cover off!
Decades ago I took a studio engineering and sound reinforcement course at the local community college. The instructor did sound for hotels and arenas and other venues. He said that he always ran into tripping breakers because in most places like banquet halls and hotels, everybody uses the circuit breakers like a wall switch, and every time they manually trip the breaker to turn the power on and off it slightly reduces the friction or resistance necessary to trip it. So over years and years of being flipped open and closed, a 15 amp fuse might only be able to handle 12, or 13 amps. So he always carried a hand full of breakers in case he ran into one that would refuse to stay closed.
Personally, if load on a 15a breaker goes north of 85%, I'm looking to move to a 20a breaker [with new pull of 12awg as needed]. Heat kills the bakeolite material over time, and that can get VERY exciting: pull a breaker and the stabs just might leave the frame/stay on the bus after a few decades. On a 2p or 3p breaker suffering such an event, odds of flashover are very high. The 85% rule has done well for me on any ampacity breaker over the years - as long as wire size gets corrected as needed. Even still, a thermograpghic inspection periodically is money well spent.
In RV parks with electric hookups many campers (including me) switch the breaker off before & after plugging in. My guess is that they see hundreds of cycles, and I have never been warned to avoid that practice.
Ah, the old days. Now, if a breaker does not hold, just find another one. The liability of playing in a hotel breaker box is just not worth it. We will typically carry our own 200A temp distro and have the facility tie it in for us. All liability transferred to them then.
I would add one more important one: turning off the main breaker with all the branch circuits left in the on position. The branch circuits should be turned off first and turned on last when shutting off and turning back on the main breaker to avoid damage to the breaker due to arcing.
@@electvolt67uhh, this is anyone with a brain's rule who doesnt want a dangerous surge of power as soon as ALL the breakers demand ALL the power in the same millisecond.. "lol"
Overall a good video. A couple of comments - Multiple wires into a single hole on a buss bar is allowed if its the ground bus bar and is rated for it. Some are rated for 1@ #10, 2 @ #12, 2 @ #14. Neutrals by code must each have their own. - If you're able to calculate loads on each circuit, as much as possible balance the load on the panel. The panel is made to kind of do that, but may not have had the loads applied appropriately for the large load devices, especially when DIYers add things. Balancing the expected loads makes power use more efficient. Unbalanced loads can actually wind up costing more in electrical bills. Safety wise, balancing the loads means the neutral can remain neutral. When the loads aren't balanced, the neutral will start to carry voltage/current, and that can cause dangerous conditions within your home.
Excellent comments EXCEPT that you failed to explain what you mean by "balancing the expected loads". You should explain the two halves of a typical 240V split-phase panel. Then it will be possible to explain balancing the loads between them. I'd also point out that when the panel cover is removed and there are some unused circuit breaker locations (or if you remove a few CBs), one can see the "interlaced fingers" of the two hot bars, allowing one to understand how to easily balance loads without complex wiring. I hope this helps anyone confused by your CORRECT, but somewhat confusing, phraseology.
@@SFFrog I figured people would search TH-cam for appropriate videos. It really takes more than can be contained in a comment. And although 120/240 is the most common used in residences, some are 208Y/120. Best to leave people to find full instructions.
You're probably thinking about the ground wire. The neutral wire is designed to carry current, otherwise you wouldn't be able to switch off any load in your house. And that is if the panel is wired in a way that creates a perfect balanced combined load within the two phases. Most cases aren't.
@@VMFRD Nope, the neutral. Neutral is the pinion of a see-saw. When the loads are perfectly balanced, the neutral carries no load. However, in practice that isn't the case, so the neutral carries the imbalance back to the common point on the transformer to complete the circuit. A great example of this is that the neutral on a 3-phase feed to a device isn't 3 conductors, nor is it a wire rated for 3x the current. Only when you're feeding something which may be operated with the phases not always in balance is the neutral oversized (sometimes doubled).
@@l00k4tstuff Well you have just re-write my comment with a more detailed explanation. So where is the part that carrying current through neutral is dangerous? Only if you exceed the rated current for the neutral conductor you're in a problematic situation.
It's worth mentioning that back in olden in the old days (say 25 years ago), All NM Romex style cable had the same white color sheathing, regardless of its gage. When checking for over fusing of circuits what appears to be an over fused 15 amp (14 gage) circuit may actually be correctly fused 20 amp circuit with white sheathed 12 gage wire.
A lot of upgrades that were done to my house in the 90s used 12 gauge cable that had a blue sheath. And I still have some 12 gauge cable that was installed in the 60s with a black sheath. So, color can be a guide but nothing to trust unless you know the history of the building.
It all had white outer insulation but it was clearly marked with the gauge. It was usually printed, but sometimes embossed. I've seen both. If you can see either end (J-box or panel), it's pretty obvious anyway. I think it's more to help the installer than someone coming around later.
I have that issue. Every circuit that has a 30A breaker is going to be checked to confirm wire gauge. I'll first check the wire size at the breaker panel then out on the end where the lights and plugs are installed. I have a micrometer that reads in thousandth of an inch so with that I can easily measure actual copper wire size.
The panel at 13:09 is beautiful. Personally, I always leave extra length on the hot wires, because you never know when in the distant future things may have to be rearranged, or a panel upgraded. I usually run the wire down to near the bottom of the enclosure and back up to the breaker. I still make it nice and pretty, but that extra length can be a life saver in the future. I've personally thanked quite a few electricians who came before me for doing this, as I'm sure some electricians in the future will thank me long after I'm dead.
As a home inspector, I agree, that panel is not only a work of art, it's so nice to inspect or work on. Unfortunately, a lot of older homes have the rat's nest style.
I used to work with guys who told me not to do that, just send it straight to the breaker. I really do like bringing it down to the bottom of the panel then up tot he breaker myself and that's what i've been doing since i've been on my own
@@goaliedude32 That's because it takes time and time is money; I only do this kind of wiring on my own panels because it sure makes troubleshooting easier and inspections a cake walk.
I came to the comments to say the same thing. If you have room in the panel to keep it neat, drop a loop down to the bottom and then neatly back to the breaker. Somebody will probably thank you in the future.
A couple of tips for updating your panel schedule. 1) make a layout drawing for your house marking the locations of all outlets and all light fixtures. A drawing thats not to scale is fine. You will turn off all curcuits and only have one circuit on at a time. You will mark on your drawing the circuit number at each location that you detect power. This drawing will be used to help you write a more accurate panel schedule. Any unused spaces with breakers in them can be marked as spare on the panel schedule. Keep in mind that you can have outlets and lights in crawl spaces, attics, and closets. Sometimes you'll find equipment (water heater, dehumidifier, air handler, etc) in these locations. If you have a hardwired doorbell, don't forget to check what circuit that is on. 2) they make printer paper that is a sticker. You can print off your own schedule. Alternately, you can print on regular printer paper and use packaging tape to secure it to the panel. One common mistake many homeowners make is storing items in front of the panel or not having a clear path to the panel. You're supposed to keep the work area and access path clear. The work space extends 3 feet from the face of the panel and is 30 inches wide. The safe access path is supposed to be 3 feet wide. All this is so that you have ready access to the panel in an emergency.
I want to second this from someone who has done a lot of networking installs. Having a basic drawing (ms paint is fine) and labels of where stuff goes makes the difference between a 10mins job vs an all day job.
I'm glad I did this with my home. I think an observer would be keen to learn that the utility room light is on the same circuit as the guest room receptacles.
@@BigMikeECV some houses are wired with all the lights on one circuit. A lot of newer homes have the bedroom lights on the same circuit as the bedroom receptacles because of the early arc fault rules.
I grew up in a house where the main panel was in the master bedroom closet, at the back of the closet. That house was built in the 1950s. So much for a "clear path" to the panel during an emergency.
M.E. here. Nice video, well explained. I got a chuckle out of the clean organized panel you showed at the end. I LOVE clean work, THAT'S the guy I want on my crew or doing service calls. But then I looked closer, and saw the circuit wires labeled in numerical order from top left down, then top right down, rather than odd circuits left, even circuits right. I know this was probably from the pull, labeling the romex as each home run was pulled to their location - but then you need to have a pull drawing to know exactly where everything went, if their numbering isn't going to match the panel cover. Hardly the end of the world, just gave me a little chuckle. It's the little things, sometimes. 🙂
A good little trick when roughing in a residential panel is to cut off a 2" piece of romex sleeve and slide it over the homerun hot conductor as you land the wire this also cuts down any confusion which wire controls what circuit. Plus it saves time when labeling the panel!
Good video. One point- Neutral lines can never be double tapped to the bus bar. Grounds can often be double tapped or even triple tapped in some panels. The panel will say how many grounds can be inserted in a single lug. The risk of heating/cooling ( expansion/contraction) is minimal with grounds since they rarely carry current, unlike the neutrals which carry current whenever the circuit is used.
one point: it is currently acceptable to code to land two SAME SIZE AND STRANDING ground wires in one terminal. in some brands of boxes, it is also necessary to do that, or to add additional grounding bars.
5:51 if you are going to use a wire nut to combine grounds, consider using a green "grounding wire nut" that has a hole on the end allowing one of the wires to continue at full lenght to land on the grounding bar. This way you don't have an unnecessary extra wire in a "pig tail" to make the final connection to the grounding bar.
Those wire nuts are horrible to work with after the fact, they only hold well if the wire are twisted together significantly more than necessary. which makes working with the wires again in the future a nightmare.
I like one wire one ground not 1 wire grounding 4 circuits. I am surprised that will pass code. Also a good pair of 600volts gloves make things much safer.
As a DIYer, I use a P-Touch labeler to stick labels onto the breakers (makes it easy to see what’s what even with the cover off) and onto each cable coming out of the panel. Saves so much headache down the line and 3rd party p-touch tape is available in a wide variety of colors and sizes (6mm tape is the perfect size for labeling romex)
That works great...until they start falling off. I used my P-Touch to label the drawers on some parts bins about 15 years ago and a while back they started falling off on their own. The ones I've stuck on paper seem to stay just fine, but the ones stuck to plastic eventually give up the ghost. Still not a bad idea, I would just consider wrapping them with a piece of clear tape so if they do come loose, they don't just fall off.
I use my P-Touch labeler often, but for my breaker panel I list out the breaker associations in an Excel table, and print it out (on a regular printer) when things change. Then I cut the table out of the printer paper, and tape it inside the box.
Just had a new 200A panel installed. The inspector checked the torque on every fastener in the panel and also checked the backing nuts were tight on all the connectors. Checked wire size matched the breaker size. Then outside the panel, he checked the set screws were tight on on every EMT connector in sight. Very thorough inspection, glad I had an electrician who knew the inspector and what he would be looking for so that there weren't any rejections.
Damn that inspector has a Napoleon complex. I'm a master electrician with 40 years of experience, I've wired over 1500 panels. Residential, commercial, industrial, Marine and even federal government work never seen any inspector check ft lbs or in lbs of torque.
I’m a master electrician of 50 years. Most inspectors do a visual inspection, because there’s a liability factor once they touch your work. They may for example check your torque on tools but that’s the extent of it. That inspector had other issues
Wish the electricians that did my house would have tightened all the lugs I found one that got hot and it was barley finger tight and it had been final signed off buy the inspector. I called the electrician he said they would come out and fix it never saw them again I got the torque specs from an NEC manual and tightend it myself.
For DIYers: if you need to replace a circuit breaker, bring the old one to the store so they can help you find the appropriate replacement. If you haven't removed it yet, take a close-up picture of the breaker and the box label. Boxes only accept compatible breakers, and even some brands have different boxes.
I worked at Lowe's and saw some pretty gnarly pics of hacks that people did to their panels. If it takes a saw or a hammer to put the new breaker in, you have the wrong breaker. "Call this guy. He is an electrician. He will get your problem fixed without you dying"
Great video, but in the section covering torquing the wire connections on the breakers you should have noted that the screw lugs on the circuit breakers installed in the breaker panel are hot unless they are switched off or the main panel breaker is switched off. Likewise, a statement should be included that the lugs with the allen wrench style wire clamps on the transformer side of the main disconnect breaker are always hot and should be avoided (they should also have insulating covers on them per code, but I've never seen a panel in use that had them). The lugs on the other side of the main breaker are hot if the breaker is on.
7:14 most load center manufacturers, like Square D we see here, are OK with doubling up grounding (ground) conductors per grounding buss hole. While NEC doesn't seem to explicitly allow it, NEC doesn't explicitly disallow it either. The reasoning is that the grounding conductor is only meant to carry fault current and should not experience the heat/expansion cycles like that of a current carrying conductor like the grounded (neutral) conductor. Though in your case, it looks like you have more than enough terminal spaces on your ground buss and the previous installer really didn't need to resort to doubling up grounding conductors like that. But overall, agreed with the sentiment regarding Neutrals, NEC 408.21 forbids double tapping grounded (neutral) connections at the buss termination.
That can be incredibly difficult to do in a residential panel where the majority of the usage is short-term period circuits. You can maybe try to divide the larger power appliances like dryers, blower motors, and microwaves on opposite sides, but you cannot control when those circuits are used so the balancing is virtually useless.
Not Necessarily, most breaker panels double 3 wire circuits using one neutral need to be together (like a double pole without the bar), if they are across from each other, they would be on the same phase and the neutral amperage return would be the amount of amp draws of each side added together, whereas when the breakers
I just finished helping my son clean up an electrical panel that had more code violations than proper practices and we saw most of your issues and then some. But, there is one additional issue with the typical home breaker boxes, more specifically the Molded Case Circuit Breaker itself. Breakers are internally lubricated to ensure they trip properly. After many years of sitting in one position, the lubricant becomes hard and impeeds the proper operation of the breaker. Recent preventative mainenance practices require each breaker be exercised several times every couple of years to keep the lubricant from hardening. It is a really simple task, especially during an unscheduled power outage, to walk down and cycle each breaker a few times. It helps to ensure its proper operation of protecting you and your home. Hope this helps.
As an English Journeyman Electrician it is really fun working with 240v single phase on a 30 amp ring main. 2.5mm cable comes out of the breaker circum navigates the house then the far end goes back into the same breaker, Servicing 13 amp mostly dual switched outlets available for 3 pin plugs each with its own fuse. 1 breaker for downstairs and 1 breaker for upstairs. Water heaters, cookers, etc have their own breaker. The I.E.E. Regulations are very interesting.
Do you blokes still install new ring mains? This seems like such a bad idea, and should have gone away a long time ago. Is it really worth the risk for the small amount of wire it might save? It seems to me, from this side of the pond, that it would be far safer to use a larger panel (consumer unit?), break the ring, and put each leg on its own breaker. What are the advantages of a ring main in 2024? A ring main and a homeowner DIYer seems a deadly combination.
The problem with doing this and several other instances of near-misses is that it conveys to the novice that working with electricity is no big deal. Never once did he stress the critical importance of not touching live circuits within the panel. I'm afraid that this video would encourage the uninitiated do-it-yourself home handyman that safety can be taken lightly.
I made that mistake once, there was no exposed wiring but I tripped a few beakers that required a maintenance guy to go on the roof of the building to reset something.
How would you feel if in a gun video the instructor was pointing the empty gun at his head and pulling the trigger, knowing that the gun was empty. That's what prodding the wires is in this video. Instant "Do not recommend channel"
My grandfather was an electrician from the 1930s - 1970s. NOTHING on earth pissed him off more than no or wrong labeling in a panel! (it's even WORSE in a commercial setting!) I have religiously labeled mine and relabeled ones in places I rented. This is easiest on day one BEFORE you set up your furniture, so you can check every outlet! Fun fact: When my grandfather had HIS house built (Early 1950s) He wired all of the branch circuits with #12AWG, even on the circuit that were fused at 15 Amps! Then again,, he was a man to changes his car's oil more often than what the manual said to. Not one to take chances! 👍😊👍
This is more personal preference, but I always double stripe my wires when recoding them. Too many times I’ll see what seems like half a roll of electrical tape just to recode a wire. As a point of safety, I always remove the tape to make sure someone wasn’t trying to hide damaged insulation (seen it more often than not). By using a SMALL amount of tape to make two stripes close together, it clearly recodes the wire without making it look like a repair.
But that doesn’t satisfy code. If you don’t want to cover the conductor in tape you can make 3 lines the entire length of the conductor with a sharpie.
As a master electrician in Wisconsin, we are required to re-color the entire length of the white branch circuit conductor from the point of entry into the panel if that conductor is being used as a hot. This can be accomplished by use of a permanent marker or electrical tape. Following phase color is important but not required, just as long as the color is not white if the conductor is used as a hot.
The NEC from when I was still doing electrical said at least 2 inches of wire completely covering the end. I would wrap black, red, purple, or green (sometimes people used white as a ground?) before stripping the end of the wire so that the tape color was what you say when you checked the breakers.
I created my own breaker labels using Microsoft office. I then printed it out, laminated it, and used magnets to attach it to the breaker box door (so I can update and change it easily). It's really easy to do and far better than the stickers you buy.
Thank You sir, 5 stars from me. I did my own 200 amp service in a shop/building. I got 100 % according to you. Also I did my ground rod and grounding as well as I could. I couldn't make my panel wiring as pretty as your example but that is what I was trying for and it is certainly not a rats nest. I am a retired Union pipefitter and in our area of the world that includes the HVAC service world. So glad you included the tightening torque and going back every year to check tightness. . Skip that step and burn a terminal off of a large compressor and you could be looking for a job. It is so important! One last thing, Your presentation and your clean cut appearance make people feel secure when you come to there door. Versus someone wearing their clothes multiple days, hair all over their face, kicking the mud off their boots on your porch and I'm sure from looking at you, you know what I mean. I subscribed and want to see in your other videos what I may have done wrong. Thank You again, It was a pleasure.
Nice clear to understand video! Remember, older NM (non-metallic) white plastic covered cable, “Romex” may be 12 gauge wire as well as 14 Gauge wire. It is nice to have color coding of the wire jacket, especially for inspection purposes. I notice the plastic bushing was missing on the incoming SE (service entrance) cable in the circuit breaker panel. On the Square D circuit breaker, you could use the second wire port to hook up the surge protector in the panel. Great job!
The color coding for NM probably came from lazy inspectors who couldn't be bothered to look at the jacket. That and hiring moronic apprentices to run wire who also couldn't be bothered to read the jacket either.
A little note about "prettying up" a circuit breaker panel - be careful with your wire bends; the NEC stipulates a minimum bend radius of 8 times the conductor diameter. I once saw a panel that had been rewired by the property owner and it was very neat, but all the conductors had very tight right-angle bends; he was so proud of his work, I didn't have the heart to tell him it was a code violation. The one you showed in your video would be considered acceptable, the bends are gently curved.
The tight turns stretch the crystals of copper in the wire and create uneven resistance points within the wire and can create hot spots under a heavily loaded wire.
@@LRN2DIY - What you said about derating a panel is not necessary. I used to work at Westinghouse D&C and trust me those panels are made to do the full load all day long and more. Just like there is no 12 guage (yes I know they are rated at 20A) wire out there that will not carry 30 amps and do it very well all day long... they only start to get slightly warm at 40. Beyond 40A on a 12 guage is where things become much more interesting. The buss bars in that panel will handle the 150 quite well. The weak points in an existing panel is the old breakers, the clamps for the input lines if they are corroded or even just tarnished. And the connections for the neutrals and grounds. If you remove the meter, clean up all the connections and put in new breakers, the panel is good as new and I have done this on a couple places I rented because I wanted to head off any possibilities of BS or trouble. I hope that shed some light on it. There is a good video here on YT of a man testing the power handling capacity of Romex wire. Also PhotonicInduction has done some experiments with current and what will and will not happen under loads.
@KlodFather The NEC is pretty conservative, for good reason. Yes it's true that wire could possibly carry more current than NEC allows under normal conditions, and it would do so happily and safely for years. But what happens when the wrong cluster of events lines up to stress the insulation of the wire (hottest day of the summer, drawing the most load the breaker allows [let's just say it's in an air conditioned room and doesn't trip until running more than 100% rating - I've certainly seen this before], etc). Now that undersized wire gets well warmer than the insulation was rated to handle and it starts to melt. Reminder, it's not the conductor that cares about the temperature (at this point). Now the insulation on the current carrying conductors is compromised and you have a recipe for sparks, which will likely start a fire. It's not a coincidence that the NEC is actually an article written by the NFPA [National Fire Protection Association]. Another anecdote, a friend of mine once mentioned about someone he knew running an entire trailer off an either 12 or 14 AWG extension cord. It didn't cause a problem for them because they had the extension cord strung up overhead and therefore had a lot of ability to disperse heat... I certainly don't recommend that
What's the code source on that? Radius bend rule applies only to wire CABLING from my understanding, not individual conductors and the whole "hot spot" debate related to individual conductors isn't a concern at least in panels from my previous research. If that was something to be concerned about imagine how many houses would be burning down due to mangled up wiring in device junction boxes we all deal with daily in the electrical trade.
Way back I apprenticed for a couple of years before changing careers and have always done my own electrical since, and one common thing I've seen.... most (not all) of the worst electrical work I've seen has come from licensed guys, in a hurry to make those profits. Most diy's are somewhat paranoid so they research to death then generally take the extra steps.
I recently had a panel added that had a few more spaces than the old panel. Since the house is older, several circuits had outlets & switches from different rooms on one circuit. What I did was typed up a sheet laying out each breaker as shown in the panel and listed each outlet, switch, etc, placed it in a sheet protector and taped it to the outside of the panel.
That is what I have done. A complete list of each breaker and what outlets/circuits/routes it services. The text for the list is on my computer and can be updated, printed out if and when it changes.
Same here. I was also annoyed at the suggestion that #1 was done by DIYers. Every home I've owned or worked on, has absolutely useless descriptions and always from the original "professional" contractor.
I have every single outlet, light, baseboard heater, fan etc, listed in precise detail (even down to which side of a split outlet) on my breaker panel. I made a separate sheet, laminated it and taped it to the panel. it has come in very handy over the years.
Excellent video. Im a homeowner and occasionally will make a simple repair but call in the electrician for real repair needs. About 9 years ago I had the overhead line running to my house replaced with an underground line to my house through a transfer switch and a new pole for my meter with a new meter box with 3 power legs and it's own shutoff switch. And the inspector was able to inspect it the same day the work was completed. Best upgrade this house had in years.
Exactly! ESPECIALLY while talking about "are you qualified and confident that you can mess with electrical" while looking into the camera and away from the box. Yes, please give me more safety advice! 🤣 Maybe shoulda been titled "11" common mistakes
I just typed how I'd deal with it so I didn't need to stress touching things in the fuse box while I was actually working, but it might encourage someone else to try and cut the power before the fuse box who didn't know what they were doing and I don't want to be responsible for any deaths today. lol
The guy that wired my house used the wrong screw on my neutral wire to my sub panel, I came home one day and walked by my panel and thought it was awful warm as I walked by, I removed the cover and sparks was flying out and the plastic clip that was holding the neutral bar was melting as well. The house was 7 years old at the time. It took that long for it to happen. The sad part was the correct screw was lying in the bottom of the box. I had to relocate the wire and up higher due to the damage threads and 10 years on still working great.
You’re doing a very nice job explaining all the code that’s involved with electrical panels I’ve been doing it for 50 years and I’ve seen a lot of changes
You remind me a lot of I guy I used to work with. He was great at explaining things, looked a bit like you and always left people he talked to happy. So take the compliment, no bow necessary, grin.
Nils, this is a great video. As someone who inspects electrical panels almost every day, the basic knowledge you gave for DIYers and homeowners is great. Your tip on what is referred to as "double tapping" of hot wires to the same breaker is so beneficial.
Thanks, Mitch! I bet you have some horror stories about things you've seen. I remember your case of recently dealing with the steel beams that had to be undone with all of the rocks on top and I can only imagine what you see on a day to day basis!
With LED lights being so low voltage and amps would double-tapping lighting circuits be fine? other than the inconvenience of having 2 rooms off when needing to do any repairs?
@@jetah50 The reason double tapping is dangerous is because when two wires are installed on the same tap, there is always a chance of one of the wires becoming loose, which then can cause arching. The copper metal can expand and contract at different rates, depending on their use and load, thus allowing movement that will cause one of the wires to become loose.
@@jetah50 For most normal-sized rooms/bedrooms lighting will never cause significant heating of the wires. With modern LED lighting running upwards of 100 lumens/watt a 15A circuit can supply about 130,000 lumens (~80 100-watt lightbulbs equivalent light) worth of light. Running two rooms' worth of light-only circuits is fine. But, it may be preferable to install a tandem 15A breaker to maintain independent supply to each room at a cost of about $10 more for a tandem vs standard. Personally what I prefer when dealing with small breaker pannels is using a 15A/20A tandem breaker for each individual room for lighting and outlets (except the bathroom and kitchen), each room has its own breaker and each function has its own circuit.
I educate myself to the point i feel i can do it, then i call in an expert. At least then i know if he is ripping me off. A man has to know his limitations ~ Clint Eastwood
It's only a ripoff until you die from a mistake you made doing it yourself. 🤣 Aside from that, professional work almost always comes warrantied for a period of time, usually electrical is a year(labor and installed parts). These guarantees aren't necessarily cheap...
One thing I wish all manufacturers would do is put two hooks on the top holes to hold the panel cover. Siemens is the only one (in our area) that does that. Good info for those that dont know.
Whts nice in some with dead fronts especially in commercial the door hooks r great I love them design a open the door fully lift uphill out. Then four screws to dead front to the holding brackets n thts it. Weight is much less also
One of my journeymen at work introduced me to what he calls "panel buddies". We take two long quarter 20 screws and cut off the head, then screw them partway into the top corners of a panel, or any kind of can really, and then hang the cover on it while we tap the rest of the holes if they're not present, or just use it to hold the panel in place while we drive the other screws. Then pull them out at the end and place the last 2 screws
Oohhh: That perfectly organized loom of wiring in the circuit panel was VERY satisfying. I noticed and commented at a friend's house that all of her cover plates' screws were all perfectly aligned vertically, and she then showed me her circuit panel - it was just like this one. I try, but I can never seem to get them this neat and organized. Thank you for that gratifying picture.
Lol. I've always aligned all my finish/trim plates in a vertical position. Can't tell you how many times I've had customers say nobody was in that box or touched that device when I've seen that the screws weren't in the position I left them in. I got that from the James Bond movie Dr. No. Bond plucks out one of his hairs, licks it and places it across the closet doors. To verify that someone had messed with his stuff!!!
Nice vídeo, Just one comment, breakers don't "push" ampers through the wires. Actually, the reason we want breakers and wires matching is rather the opposite. If you have a short in a 14 gage wire, if the breaker is set for too high current to break the circuit, because of the wire thickness that current may not be achieved until it's too late. You may have a fire started if the wire is allowed to burn hot for long. Remember, current is required by the load, not pushed by the source. Thank you for the video!
In my early years as a journeyman electrician, I got busted for not having the panel labeled before I called for the inspection. I was going to do it, but hadn't got around to it first. My boss was pissed! He had to pay for an additional inspection. Lucky he didn't make me cover it. After that, I started writing the circuit number on the inside of the outlet box with a magic marker, in addition to making sure the panel was labeled correctly.
Mislabeling was definitely a big point of frustration for me when we bought our home. It took more than half a day to trace out every receptacle and light. Fast forward a few years to last year and we decided to add rooftop solar system and upgrade the 150 amp panel to a 200 amp Span smart panel (already had 200 amp service to the box). Unfortunately, the solar installers did not follow my labeling scheme so I had to go about relabeling everything all over again. 😭 On the bright side, it was a lot easier with the Span panel as I just went from receptacle to receptacle with a high-draw appliance (hair iron), plug it in, and watch the usage spike on the correct circuit in my Span app. I was shocked that Span doesn't offer some sort of tracing device that can of into the receptacle and have the panel itself label it as you go.
Oh man - sorry to hear you had to redo that. To your point, the Span must have made things much easier. I have looked into getting a Span but it definitely seems to make more sense if you have a battery backup and I don't. I'm excited to see where all that tech leads to in the future too. Thanks for watching!
I've been going a step further with my recent renos, in addition to labelling the panel. Brother makes a tiny 1/8" label tape for their P-Touch printers that I use to label all my receptacles with the associated breaker. It's so small that it doesn't really affect the look of the wall plates if I tuck it right in the corner. Any new work or rework gets a label inside the box too. Takes very little additional time, and it's a nice gift to future me when I need to find a breaker quickly.
Always read the specs on your load center before doing things. Square D allows two wires to be placed in the holes on the neutral or ground bars. They need to be 12 gauge at the max and need to be paired with the same size wire. Yes one wire is ideal but if done properly it is ok. Also know how many breakers you load center can handle, you can put twin breakers anywhere in a Homeline series but a QO series has different rules. Older QOs could have twins anywhere, newer QOs can only have twins on the bottom five spaces on each side, and the newest QOs are being recommended to not use twins at all. Its all in the part number, a HOM4080 has 40 spaces but can have 80 circuits if filled with twins. The sticker on the inside of the door will tell you everything you need to know from spaces to acceptable breaker replacements and parts. Also most loadcenters use generic covers/doors just because you open the door and see two spaces left to knockout to add a circuit doesn't mean that you have two available slots on the bus.
Most codes stipulate just one neutral wire per hole; the QO and other brands may allow two Ground wires, only of the same diameter (2-12, 2-14). Code always takes precedence over a mfg. specs, and also usually demands just one wire per breaker, regardless of the stamped spec. A legal option is to pigtail more than one hot, and only put one into the breaker - cannot mix 14 with 20 ga. if going to a 15A. breaker. Our 50 year old home has had a lot of lighting added, and it feels tricky that so many branches all tie to one or two early "lighting" circuits, yet in practice especially as more LEDs are used, the amperage load on these do not get high as many lights are not on at once. A kitchen circuit might have a toaster, blender, mixer, radio, on at once, adding up for a couple hours at a time - where balancing loads as a concept enters, so phases offset and reduce a high return load on a single neutral. Making older wiring safer, yet not up to modern codes, can be a tricky art.
Thanks for this! Being a DIYer, I’d shy away from electrical but I’ve been gaining experience and confidence. Well I just had an interlock kit installed by someone and now that I saw this, I could have done it better than the electrician that came out! You’re awesome!
Safety is the extra millage that saves troubles and even lifes. One time i was installing a fixture , being too lazy to reach the breaker i short-circuit the wires with a screwdriver , a spark resulted in a small ball of burning copper that landed on the sink causing a spot . Good video.
Torquing the screws is the only one of these that have gotten me. We were in a new build home about 2 years and a screw came loose on a breaker. The wire pulled out and shut off the circuit. Of course this only happened to one circuit - the furnace, in Minnesota, mid winter. Probably about midnight. About 2:30 or 3 I woke up due to the cold and realize the furnace wasn't running, but we have power to the house... Not fun chasing problems half asleep and with a sense of urgency. Found it after a few minutes and got everything working again. One of my best examples of "Murphy's Law" - wouldn't happen to an unimportant circuit on a warm sunny summer afternoon. Noooo, of course not...
I have to laugh because I've been there but man, that stinks. Our issue was with the A/C in mid July, also middle of the night. Darn that Murphy! At the same time it's a great testament to checking in on those lugs once in a while - could save a lot of trouble. I'm a believer! Thanks for sharing that experience too.
@@LRN2DIY These are the kinds of things that only have to happen to you once to convert you to a believer. I'll probably invest in one of those torque-controlled screwdrivers. Maybe add this to my once-a-year preventative maintenance list. I thought I was just unlucky, I didn't realize this is a thing. These kind of reminders are things that Google Calendar is great at setting up and reminding you. Hey, that's an idea for you - maybe you already have it on your website (I haven't looked). How about a preventative maintenance list for new homeowners - furnace filters, smoke detector batteries, HVAC service, water heater service, sprinkler systems, etc. All the things you want to plug into your favorite calendar app.
@@philipstaite4775 I love it, Phillip. I have thought about doing a video like this for a while and still might. Gotta love those easy recurring calendar appointments too. I use that now for filter swapping and a few others. Technology FTW!
I'm not an electrician; I just get called to fix their mistakes 😁. Was mildly curious about your video that popped up, so skimmed through - VERY impressive. Simple explanations packed with clear info, no fluff. If I were JUST a stupid homeowner, I'd think I could rewire my house after seeing your videos!
re overloading panel: If you've switched to LED lighting those circuits will draw a lot less power, a lot! Also, replacing CFL or (gasp!) Edison bulbs while they're still working pays for itself in months, so don't wait until the old ones burn out, replace them now.
As an apprentice I loved wiring panels to look like that beautiful example. However, the Master Electrician who trained me said I was taking too long and it really wasn’t necessary. We split the difference. 😊
I would like to add putting fiberglass insulation inside of the panel. I found that 2 weeks ago at my shop when I was adding a new circuit. Apparently the old owners were worried about the little bit of air coming in through the service line entrance so they risked a huge fire hazard instead.
@@JamesAnderson-mr2sg Current generates heat in wiring and conductors, so ventilation is key. Even subtle overheating issues can lead to loose connections.
Thanks, My main breaker is located outside and the panel inside was evidently modified into a sub panel by removing the main breaker. This left a hole in the front of the main panel. I knew it was unsafe, so I covered it with duct tape. I also knew this wasn't the right way, but it was "safer" than leaving it open. Now I know what is needed to fill that hole.
1. You want to add a sub panel so the main panel won't be overloaded. Well, where do you think the sub panel gets its power from? From 2 spaces in the main panel. So you haven't changed the load on the main panel. Sub panels only add more breaker spaces. By the way, your panel is already a sub panel. That is why there is a 4th wire as a ground and the grounds and neutrals are separated and the main bonding jumper is not installed. Your main panel is where the main disconnecting means is located. A main panel that contains the main breaker does not need a separate , 4th wire, grounding conductor. That is most likely why you see some cut off. 2. Changing the color of a white wire to be used as a hot requires the entire wire be re-identified every place it is exposed, meaning every junction box it's in. You want to instruct but you are not qualified.
Thank god someone said it, licensed Electrician here I was grinding my teeth watching this. So tired of completely ignorant diyers passing on misinformation as if they fully grasp the topic. Idk why ppl think adding the numbers on breakers equates to total amperage used/available. Every single one of those single pole breakers could be thinned down to twins and much more space created in that 1st panel. We often in the trade refer to this as thinning breakers down 😂. If your consumption requires more than existing panel thats a simple answer.. you need a service change to either 200a or 400amp service 😑
It's possible with special fuses to make some load distribution in a sub panel (in a main panel you hardly find a good place). I don't know if these are common in the US, but it should get available with EV-charging (reduce the car's power if you need hot water, with off the dryer as long you need hot water in the kitchen, ...). Sometimes you need ground in the main panel, sometimes not. Don't take any assumption if you work with this. You are right that most homes don't need the 4th wire as ground, but the breaker you are working with may be a strange case where it's different (it should be labeled). Here was a small settlement which got converted from industrial environment, it got all the industrial wires still in place but used as flats --> no ground connection anywhere and many electricians got screwed by this installation (one short to ground and everything works still fine, you could even touch one wire). Every electrician loved to search for fault if the ground fault sensor went off (th-cam.com/video/maJaBQyd1XA/w-d-xo.html). It was a running gag for every new electrician who worked first in this settlement (strange wiring, noting makes sense until somebody pointed out these flats use a high grade one fault tolerance industrial/hospital wiring). It's easier to spot in the US as there are special hospital grade receptacles (hospitals need this strange wiring for life support systems).
Ever noticed that the service drop to every dwelling only has three conductors? The true grounding conductor actually originates from the earth via ground rods. In some places two ground rods are required an unbroken grounding conductor is imperative to the function of a proper grounding system!!
@@badpenny8986 With tandem breakers the panel manufacturer MUST specify that tandems can be used and they also specify in which spaces they can be used. You also cannot exceed the maximum number of breakers for that panel as specified by the manufacturer and the code.
Unless the code has changed in recent years, the ground wires are allowed to be two to a hole in the bars, provided they are the same gauge. This is easily verified by looking at the chart on the door that specifies wire sizes per terminal, torques, approved breakers, etc.
You're correct. It's not allowed for neutrals but is permissible for ground. A lot of folks shy away from it because it is believed to increase the likelihood of one of the wires becoming loose.
I can attest that double or triple tapped neutrals can be an issue, and I'm pretty sure this was done by a licensed electrician when the building was built. I own an apartment building built in I think 1965. One of my tenants was having an issue with one of his receptacles. Fortunately I have labeled the box so I knew which wire it was in the box. When I opened the box there were not 2 but 3 neutrals going to one lug on the buss bar. One of the neutrals had gotten so hot that it had burned the insulation and reduced the gauge of the wire to probably 16 or less. Fortunately there was enough wire where I could trim the wire back to good wire and salvage the situation. I have since checked the other boxes in the building and found that this was a common practice. I have since separated all of the neutrals and they are now on their own lugs. Kind of scary when you think about it. Keep the good stuff coming.
That nasty box is so old... Having all the ground/Neutral at the top makes it very difficult to work on. I did Residential Electrical for 20 years and replaced 10 panels, not including the work I did on a buddies house outside my state. I've seen some crazy dangerous electrical in that tine, from electrified Knob and Tube in an attic with boxes sitting on top of the wires to late 1800s electrical in an adobe farmhouse that had to be replaced by fishing new wire up through 18in thick mud bricks, and doing work on my own home that was electrified by the lowest bidder. You give good advice. Keep it up.
Idk if I’m gonna trust a guy who doesn’t know different between current and voltage because if you don’t have anything plugged in…even if the plug is active there won’t be current following because it’s an open circuit beyond that point.
The number one problem people do ALL the time is using standard screws for the cover, leading to a greater potential to cut a wire. You need to use blunt panel screws. Always check the panel with a noncontact voltage detector before putting your hands on the panel and use the back of your hand first.
well thats why you blunt the tip of a drywall screw before you use it in as a panel screw. I just jam em against bottom of panel, impact em till tip is nice and blunted
I am a diy electrician and actually nailed all of these. The last one about the torque I never verified with my panels but I have been working on cars for 40 years and can estimate torque within a few inch pounds.
I find that I tighten the wire. Then when I go back in a few minutes it is looser than it was, so I tighten it again, the copper relaxes under the screw. It never needs more than 2 tightenings done.
Common sence. Great video. Doing electrical service helped when installing electricity. It did for me. 28yrs HVAC, Doing my own electrical. Sub panel, disconnects, moving breakers in panel area. Just take your time and always think about the next person that comes along because it just might be you.
First, IF this video includes any information that you didn't already know, I recommend that you DON'T remove your panel cover unless you are at least an apprentice with basic knowledge of how to work safely in a hot enclosure. All the extra tips in the comments are important. You could never include everything in one video. That is why Electricians get 4 years of training before they are eligible to test for a journeyman license. Anyone who skips the training is putting himself at risk. He could also be putting his family at risk. I have recently noticed that many younger electricians/apprentices don't always know the difference between a simple mistake and a fire hazard. Some of the minor mistakes they think could burn a house down makes me wonder if they would recognize a real fire hazard if they saw one. Then there are the electrocution hazards. Many people would be surprised to know what is most likely to cause electrocution (death caused by electrical shock) in a house. Some people might disagree, but a DIYer with no electrical training and little knowledge should not remove the breaker panel cover. Anyone who thinks it's okay for someone without a good understanding of electrical theory or at least some supervised, educational experience working on residential electrical system including some knowledge of practical wiring methods to make changes or upgrades inside a breaker panel is just wrong. However, every person is the first and last person responsible for his/her own safety. So we all must dictate our own actions and live with the results or die from them.
Just a note of interest. In europe, terminals are filled not a single wire, voltage is 240 no 120. I have found that a single wire can be cut if over torqued and the wire can be found to move to the side of the screw so the threads cut into the wire and not the end of the screw. I bend the solid wire over you find it fills the terminal and makes a better secure connection.
Nice video, very informative! I'd really like to see you put in some disclaimers about where you're putting your fingers. Is this panel de-energized? A novice might feel OK about touching those big, silver lugs. After all, they look so innocuous right up until you land a grounded finger on one. Same for the output of the breakers.
Thank you. Others have made comments on safety issues. A good summary. For safety, stand off to the side of the panel. If a rare breaker explosion occurs, that will lower your chances of getting plastic and metal in your face. Thanks again.
Couldn't agree more - face shield if available. I'll add the same holds true for jump starting vehicles. Rare, but if there's an invisible 'cloud' of hydrogen gas around a battery, the arc from attaching the jumper clamp can cause a hazardous flash to an explosion that spew battery acid in every direction. I saw it happen once and still remember vividly. It's not pretty. Stay safe - live longer.
Few things to note: I'm sure you already know this, but viewers may not. If you are working in an older home, all NMB was naturally colored (White) till the mid-1990s when NMB 12 (Yellow) and 10 (Orange) were introduced. Also - 04:08 Romex is a trade name for Southwire. Cero, Encore, and Republic Wire all make NMB in the united states. (Calling NMB [Non-Metalic Building Wire] Romex is like calling all jeans Levis) Very well thought-out video. I will share this video with others. for sure! You also have a new subscriber! 🦅
Partially true. The color coding didn't start til the 90s, but NM cable came in all kinds of colors. It was a manufacturer choice. Come across white, black, gray, tan, blue, and green sheathed NM cable in older homes. Noticed now that they have a purplish color denoting 14/3.
A good tip for some, whileyou have the breaker off, write the breaker number in the back of the switch and outlet plates. That way if you or someone needs to do work in the future, it will be easier to get the right breaker off.
Thank you for the video, you are so right about that voltage. I was hooking up a Electric dryer. I didn't know what I was doing. I don't remember what I did wrong. I unhooked it from the dryer I was replacing the power cord for the electric dryer. I forgot to unhook it from the outlet. The electricity hit me like I have never felt anything in my lifetime, I have got shocked before down through the years,but this was a different feeling. It was like you wouldn't believe.To this day I wonder how I threw the power cord out my hand. I guess it just wasn't time for me to go.
Magnífico aporte. Soló agregar: 1) El Calibre del Conductor Eléctrico, depende de la Potencia de consumo del Ckto Ramal o de la carga, y debe ser Dimensionado de acuerdo a los factores necesarios aplicables: Factor de Seguridad, Factor de Temperatura, Caida de Tensión, Factor de agrupamiento, etc. (NEC/NFPA 70_Art. 210 y Art. 230) 2) El Conductor de Puesta a Tierra, debe estar unido al Neutro. Es decir, que entre la barra de Tierra y la de Neutro, debe existir un puente, siempre que este Tablero o Panel eléctrico sea el Principal, lo que se conoce como "Unión Equipotencial" (NEC/NFPA 70_Art. 250) Gracias por el aporte eléctrico, ha mencionado muchas cosas sumamente importante que muchos electricistas y usuarios, dejan de lado. Saludos, desde El Salvaodr Mauricio Archila
I moved into my house in 2003. It came with a 100 ampere 20 circuit circuit breaker box. I was adding central air & needed to get a bigger box. I hired a coworker who happens to have an E-1. Him & I talked about my options. He suggested after measuring load on each hot leg that all I needed was a bigger panel. We increased it to a 32 breaker panel. In 2004 I added 2 spaces for the condenser outside & 2 for the air handler. In 2006 I added an addition & added a lightening circuit & one plug circuit. 2-2 spaces for a baseboard electric. Then we added a home run outlet for the garage for 20 amperes with 12/3 conductors. Last was a mini split for my interlock in 2018 for my back feeding generator. Now my panel is full again. We did a load check with the A/C on & our usual appliances in the summer time including the washing machine & dryer running. All our lights on. We were only drawing 7 amps on each phase. Same for winter with both electric baseboards & oil heat. Great video & content!
I have over 40 years experience as an electrician 20 in the Navy and 20 doing residential/commercial new construction and repairing older electrical. I treat all wires as if they are hot regardless of knowing it’s turned off. The worst is finding some DIYer has run all the power for a room to the light and hot legged the light switches. You think the switch is off securing the power to a fan/light and zap. A no contact tester helps but should not be the only way to insure its off. I bought a mountian home built in 1947. There are still “knob and tube” insulators here and there. Aluminum wire used on outlets/lighting and found two circuits tossed into the attic with BX cloth covered wires with outlets, switches, and fixtures still installed and the circuits still hot. The electric company installed new power poles and upgraded my overhead feed to 250 amps feeding a meter base with #8 wire to a double 50 amp breaker that feed my entire house. I could pull my meter and upgrade my panel but the smart meter would tell on me. They and the county want permits and inspections done and only “state licensed” electricians to do the work. Since what I’ve found does not meet code requirements I have to pay an overpriced company to do work I’m qualified to do. 🤷🏼♂️ When in doubt don’t screw with electricity it can injure or kill you or others and an electrical fire caused by DIYer usually isn’t covered by insurance.
The way he speaks…is between layman/idiot and very knowledgeable. It never feels over your head, AND he CALLS out areas for complete ignorance or rookie mistakes! 😃 New Subscriber. 🥳 Thanks!
My house used to be 100-plus years old, knob-and-tube wiring still used for a lot of circuits. I say "used to", because an electrical fire made it not a house anymore. Squirrels are not my friends right now. The previous owner was a "fixit" guy that didn't really know what he was doing, and he brought in some of his friends to do some fixin' and have some beers and snort some white powdery substance in the basement, and most of it was good. Now it's being rebuilt and stepped up to current code compliance. It's going to be a while, but redoing from the bottom up helps make me feel safe again, and my hyper-awareness of electrical and general infrastructure has me both planning for the future in my own house, nut also checking everything in the temporary rental. Found some electrical issues. Open grounds, not/neutral reversed, and no hot at all. I think we're up to ten outlets, one showing 30 VAC, and that scares my poop out. AC compressor is irredeemable, furnace may last through the winter, if we're lucky. Bought a CO detector just in case. Upstairs bathtub/shower leaks into the basement, from the underside, the blackening shows it's been going on for a while, HVAC filter was last changed in 2015. I want my place to be safe from the ground up. No shenanigans, no surreptitious bottles of Modelo being uncovered when we had to move stuff. Solid infrastructure first, make it pretty later.
Fantastic video. I don't have time to read all the comments but the ones that are saying, mistake number 11 is pointing at the box and such. Not quite sure if anybody noticed but he obviously took things apart wired them up the wrong way so that we can see the wrong way then put them back the correct way. He talks about code in several different scenarios. And he's running a sub box I'm pretty sure this guy knows what he's talking about. The video is very well composed very straightforward, well rehearsed, and like I said he took the time to write on the electrical panel labels the wrong information, rewrite them in some other language or gibberish, then put good labels on there. He wired up scenarios where two wires are in one circuit, he wired up the grounds to look incorrect without a wire nut or with a pigtail, and then corrected all of these to make them look the way that they're supposed to be to code. Great job great video and at the very least even if you don't want to touch your electrical box you can at least inspect it with your eyes and see if there's something wrong and call electrician.
Very interesting; I learned a couple things: double-tapping breakers, and blank fillers (I have been using unused breakers). One thing, for me at least; I wouldn't wear jewelry such as rings, when working inside a live electrical panel.
Using unused breakers is legal most concerns pertain to open access to energized busses in a pinch is totally permitted to install a breaker w no conductor attached. Just remember to label that slot as a spare !
@@michaellike5037 funny you should mention this. Just today, having an extra small hot water heater installed, the guy's going to use exactly that breaker!
You can have multiple grounds in the in a single ground terminal because they're not considered load carrying conductors, neutrals are load carrying conductors must be separated. Your panel on this instance is considered a main lug, new codes prevent you from using the same terminal bar for neutrals and grounds and grounds must be handled by your main grounding means which is usually near your main disconnect off of your service.
The thing that causes problems with putting 2 wires under the same terminal is if the wires are different sizes because the terminal will tighten on the bigger wire and the smaller one will eventually work loose and have a bad connection. If they are the same size then its fine although still not best practices but if you are really short for available slots then you should add a new bar
I had experience with undertorqued panel. Once I went to the basement and noticed sparks in the panel. It was a pretty good timing - when I opened the panel I saw a wire started burning its insulation. And, of course, there was a lose screw on the breaker. That was pretty scary. I still thank God, I think it was a miracle I noticed it at the right time.
Illegible handwriting is a pet peeve of mine. Labels! Wonderful idea! 80% Good to know. Protectors are good. Those bare holes are sharp. Personally, I don't like 14g wire, but use 12g minimum. Badly grounded boxes are wasteful and dangerous, I agree. This can destroy electronic equipment and cause fires. Agreed, people should read, understand, and follow all the codes, including colors of insulation and sheathing. Wow! I had never heard of a torque screwdriver before, and a great idea to use one. $42 on Amazon today. Thanks for the video, very well done.
older houses, mine built in 1973, all the Romex for 20 and 15 amp is white and is both 12 and 14 gauge, so the color is not an indicator of wire gauge for older panels. I even have some black covered romex.
There are lots of comments here about dangerous DIYers, but the two potentially disastrous wiring problems I have experienced were caused by so-called professionals: utility line workers. For 30-some years I have owned a second home on the Oregon Coast. Twice in that time I have replaced the SEP. The first was to update an obsolete 125-amp panel to a 200-amp Square D. One night I arrived during heavy rain to find the lights flickering or inoperable. Upon inspection in the basement, the entire panel looked and sounded like an arc welder. I didn’t dare touch the thing to flip the main breaker, so I poked at the breaker with a wooden broom handle during arcing (so I could see) until I killed the power. The next day I realized what had happened: wind-driven rain had entered the SEP mast, flowed past the meter and entered the box, where it began destroying its guts, all without tripping the main breaker. And all because the line crew that connected the house to the utility system had pointed the weather head at the nearby ocean, allowing wind-driven rain to reach the SEP. On another occasion when I arrived at the house every light burned out as soon as I tried to turn it on, and the refrigerator was not functioning. I soon determined that every outlet in the house was supplying 240 volts. All because inadequate work by another line crew had allowed the supply lines to short and double the voltage throughout the building. The utility worker who responded to my call shook his head, redid the connections and said something about colleagues who insisted on doing work the old-fashioned way. The blazing hot GE fridge compressor eventually cooled and the thing kept working.
I’m no electrician, but have been doing all my own work for 40 years, starting with the updating of a 100-amp panel in a knob-and-tube system in my first home, built in the 1930s. That panel, itself a presumed upgrade of the original fuse box, was a terrifying rat’s nest of wires, done by a local “electrician” known to my elderly neighbor. I am pretty sure that the electrician’s helper was Jack Daniels. Some years later, when a Realtor friend wanted me to see a mess of a house that had just come on the market, I put it together that the enormous, haphazard jumble of electrical supplies could only have belonged to that same brain-fried electrician.
Yes, plenty of work is done by DIYers who shouldn’t be near electricity. But every professional here has stories like this of jobs done by lazy, incompetent or drunk electricians.
DYI people get people killed in electrical.
You forgot mistake #11 that you demonstrated in the video: Waving your hands cavalierly around a panel with the cover removed and then tightening the screws on the hot lead of a breaker without switching it off. Even with an insulated screwdriver this is an unnecessary risk, particularly for a nonprofessional. And waving your hands around the lugs where the entrance cable connects is just asking to touch a hot lead by mistake.
Dude was raising my stress level and giving me cold sweats
@@chrismckenna5361 Yes, this sort of thing is what gives DIYers a bad name. 240 V electricity is nothing to treat so cavalierly.
Good grief keep your hands away from those wires. Very unsafe to do this, especially that you were waving your hands near the wires and looking at the camera. Use an insulated screwdriver to point out things, not your fingers.
I agree completely, although it should be MISTAKE #1. The first words out of his mouth should have been to turn the main breaker off. Additionally, he’s not wearing any eye protection. You make a mistake and short something and you are now arc welding and molten metal will be shooting around.
@@glasshalffull2930 Good points.
Thank You sir ! As a retired Journeyman Electrician with more than 50 years of experience in the field I saw more than my share of the "rats nest" type of panels, gasoline stations that had been remodeled several times. I couldn't always make them look perfect, but I tried. Any of the new Installations that I worked on, looked like the 3 phase panel you showed. When I upgraded my own residence from 70 amp Zinsco to a 200 amp Homeline all my wires were formed and marked. When the city inspector came for final inspection he was taken aback and had to take a picture of the work. It is sad to say that too many tradesmen do not take pride in their work and only do the minimum.
This is not a 3 phase panel. It is a sub-panel, with two hots and one neutral cable, which are all insulated. The center conductor has a white stripe, and is the neutral, and not the third phase. There is also a ground cable, which is not insulated.
I’m sure your fire department and insurance company thanked you for changing out that Zinsco. Given the issues with the Zinsco breakers, you saved yourself quite a headache.
@@hsailer No -- @13:04 the panel with the nice wiring IS a 3 phase panel (black - red - blue) with the neutral (black wire with white tape on it) coming down the left side and the ground wire on the right side 🤨
I've had that experience and I'm not a pro.
@@hsailer I could not tell if neutral had bonding screw in or not in this vid, but the point is super important. On any service, only one point is needed for referencing neutral to earth, otherwise ground loop issues may emerge, and as we all know... lightning takes ALL paths to ground. A sub panel must not duplicate neutral to earth bond found at main panel. Anyway....sparkyman got it right. Cheers!
I love turning chaos panels into art! I done a panel during COVID shutdown when I was on layoff from my 9-5 and let me tell you it was the worst I'd seen, made the rats nest panel showed in this video look like a work of art. Well 2 days later a fully upgraded panel that looked beautiful, a fully rewired basement, and several changes in the main part of the house were complete and I was totally satisfied with my work. More so impressed was my buddy who hired me to do the work, he knew I had an electrical background but didn't realize I was that good. I just wish I could share the pictures here so you too could see what I walked into and how great it looked when I left. Oh and I didn't mention this place had more junction boxes than any 25 houses I've seen. I done away with as many as I could but to save money most of the old wiring stayed but I got it up to par as best I could with the budget he gave me to work with. Sparky for life.
You would have loved the control panel for dancing waters at Moody Gardens in Galveston, Tx.. One of the most beautiful wiring jobs I'be ever seen. Each and every wire was perfect as were the ty wraps. Each bundle was aligned perfectly and there were hundreds if not thousands of wires.
I need you badly for my basement... built in 1900 and remodeled four times. Two large breakers and two smaller ones... who knows where half the circuits go.
I have converted quite a few rat's nests, and the end result has always been quite satisfying. The irony is that you actually save time over the long run when you do work with a set methodology.
Although wiring a residential main panel to look like a machine tool panel with tight bends and labeling each conductor looks sharp I have always thought of the person that might have to work in the panel down the road. For this reason I forgo the form for function and provide a service loop when landing the hot/feed conductors! When done correctly it will look nice and allow for moving a circuit’s location without having to break out the cumbersome wire stretcher tool 😋
I do the same, although I keep the bends in the U-loop tight, and the extra wire length consistent.
Sir, you need to be super, super clear that the mains hardware in the breaker box will be hot even if your breakers are switched off. If newbies follow your example in the video, they would feel safe touching the mains connections and bus bars. You should make it crystal clear that those are no-touch areas unless you are absolutely sure the power is disconnected to those mains (often requiring the power company to remove the electric meter from your service entry).
Great point.
He did disclaim very early on that if you are not trained or comfortable with the box, don't screw with it.
Always assume they are LIVE. Even if you believe them Off.
For this and other reasons I just replace my breaker box in my outbuilding [shop] with a version that has a main disconnect up top [main breaker]. It is a 100 amp panel. The other one was also a 100 amp panel but much smaller and no main breaker at top. Before I touch anything I test for voltage, I never assume anything with electricity.
@@robert5 I sometimes add a light above the panel board, feed through a 1A fuse, from the input side of the Main breaker. This means I can see what I am doing and working on in the Panel board, even when the main Breaker is OFF, but it confirms there is Voltage around.
When you color tape a white conductor to indicate a hot wire you absolutely must tape the other end where it terminates. A hot white wire in a box could be taken as a neutral and used opposite a hot from the opposite side of the panel resulting in a 240 volt feed applied to a 120 volt appliance.
This was my exact thought when the red tape was added to the wire in the panel (common mistake #7). Both ends of that wire need to be color coded in the same manner.
@@FarmRanchHomestead I agree, need to make sure the other end is marked too. I'm glad someone beat me to it 5 months and then 15 hours ago!
Yes that is correct. I was taught to use black tape to mark a hot white wire because the hot wires are black.
Yes. . . And on large cables, we also taped or marked them both sides of walls or bulkheads as well. . . I also number Outlets, with the Circuit Breaker number and it position in a circuit, such as CB4-3. . . Being the 3rd outlet feed from CB #4
@@slalomking If it's the secondary hot (240V circuit) it has to be a color other than black (or white, green, or bare). I carry black, red, blue, and green, giant "Sharpies" in my electrical tool bag to mark wires. I do it when I'm installing the circuit, so both ends get marked.
A few points: If you home is pre-2001, you won't see a yellow jacket on 12ga wire. That started becoming available in 2001, and older wire jacketing will be white, or possibly gray. Most new panels come with covers for the primary lugs. If your panel has a master breaker and it's turned off and the covers are in place, it becomes VERY difficult to accidentally ground those out. They're also available as an option for some older panels. It's within NEC code to have two ground wires under a single screw, but NOT for a neutral. The reason you see that in the example panel is because some bus bars don't come with all the screws populated. Of course, you should always check with the jurisdiction having authority. NEC is a top-level thing. A state, county, or city can have more stringent requirements than the NEC. Lastly, it's always wise to remove jewelry when working in a hot panel. If your ring or watch manages to bridge a hot and neutral or ground, it'll turn to molten metal pretty quick.
I should have read comment before posting my own.🤭
Great info and comments here! Thank you for sharing. I just installed a new sub panel yesterday and it didn't come with covers for the mains so I purchased them separately. Seems like $20 for two pieces of yellow plastic was way overpriced but I felt better having them in place, especially while I'm working on it.
Again, great info on the sleeve colors, code and jewelry tip. I have switched to silicone watch band and ring but I suspect the watch body itself could still be an issue potentially.
@@LRN2DIY Twenty dollars is plenty under priced compared to a possible trip to the undertaker.
I believe the NEC allowed 2 Neutrals on the same screw until the early 2000s (not sure the exact year) so if you see this in an older home, it may not be a case of laziness, but a change in code. I it is a good safety improvement to only have one wire on neutrals though, as it could cause arcing.
It’s not a problem for ground wires, as they shouldn’t see any current, but are only there in case of an emergency.
I don't wanna see a yellow jacket at all. Those dern bees hurt.
Educated myself for years on how to upgrade my panel. However, never could bring myself to do it as I thought there might me something I did not know. So I finally bit the bullet, paid the good $$ and had a pro do it. Only things I learned watching the pro do it was 1} needed a new feed to upgrade to 200 and 2) use double pole breakers for those circuits that shared a neutral (which was a common practice 69 years ago). When explained to me as to why the double poles, it answered the question as to why I sometimes felt a little "bite" from neutrals when doing things like replacing outlets. Never saw my electrician use a torque driver when screwing down the connections. Thanks for the video!
I was trying to change an outlet a while back, upgrading to the deco style and couldn't find the right breaker. I kept turning off the breakers one at a time but it never lost power. Turns out one 15a breaker was connected to the top, and one 15a was connected to the bottom but the previous installer forgot to break the jumper lug. Gotta love the pros the new home builders use now a days.
It should be noted I'm a DIYer who has done lots of electrical work but I won't touch a panel. Don't do flooring either, lol.
I'm an EE and a gearhead. I torque nearly everything on a car. Thank you for pointing out that there's a torque spec on breakers. Never even thought of it. So far using a little sense has kept me from burning any houses down but I will buy the proper tool for the job. Great channel!
Hey me too!
Just think, it is in the electric code twice now. Once where it says to torque and once where it says to follow the listing and labeling instructions. NEC 110.14(D) and 110.3(B) However, I think I am the only Electrical contractor in the area that does torqueing.
@@tiggeroush the guys that did my service upgrade busted out levels and a torque wrench. I was highly impressed.
"Never ever thought about it" really?
You must be a C student EE if you have never heard of that.
I must admit that I had some bad experiences as a teen working with high voltage and was terrified to do anything in my box for years. Even something as simple as replacing a receptacle made me cringe. But when I realized the cost of adding a circuit for my shed, I decided it was time to get over my fear. I watched a number of TH-cam tutorials but yours was the best. Your videos gave me the confidence to do the job and the knowledge to do it right. I’m now working on replacing all the old wiring from the 1950s when the house was built and upgrading my box. I’m nearly done and will have an electrician check my work in a few days before the electric company turns everything back on.
Thank you so much for being so informative and straight to the point in all your videos.
That’s amazing that you were able to overcome that fear and build that skill set too! I’m definitely still learning but it’s such a valuable ability to have. Best of luck with the house - sounds like you’ve got this under control.
Thanks so much for watching too!
Now is the time to add a generator hook-up...while the utility is disconnected.
I don’t recall working with you , sorry 😅
I'm the son of an journeyman electrician. I've replaced a few outlets or added a circuit to my own breaker panels once in a while. I have shocked myself a few times. But I've got to admit I still get the heebie-jeebies when I see a breaker panel with the cover off!
@@bernlitzner2739 A mechanical interlock saves $$$: Main must be turned off, slider moved before backup can be closed in.
Decades ago I took a studio engineering and sound reinforcement course at the local community college. The instructor did sound for hotels and arenas and other venues. He said that he always ran into tripping breakers because in most places like banquet halls and hotels, everybody uses the circuit breakers like a wall switch, and every time they manually trip the breaker to turn the power on and off it slightly reduces the friction or resistance necessary to trip it. So over years and years of being flipped open and closed, a 15 amp fuse might only be able to handle 12, or 13 amps. So he always carried a hand full of breakers in case he ran into one that would refuse to stay closed.
Good story. Breakers are rated for 100 on/off cycles unless it is a switch duty breaker.
Personally, if load on a 15a breaker goes north of 85%, I'm looking to move to a 20a breaker [with new pull of 12awg as needed]. Heat kills the bakeolite material over time, and that can get VERY exciting: pull a breaker and the stabs just might leave the frame/stay on the bus after a few decades. On a 2p or 3p breaker suffering such an event, odds of flashover are very high. The 85% rule has done well for me on any ampacity breaker over the years - as long as wire size gets corrected as needed. Even still, a thermograpghic inspection periodically is money well spent.
In RV parks with electric hookups many campers (including me) switch the breaker off before & after plugging in. My guess is that they see hundreds of cycles, and I have never been warned to avoid that practice.
Ah, the old days. Now, if a breaker does not hold, just find another one. The liability of playing in a hotel breaker box is just not worth it. We will typically carry our own 200A temp distro and have the facility tie it in for us. All liability transferred to them then.
Correct. . . Circuit Breakers should not be used as regular Switches for multiple use. Keep their use to a minimum.
I would add one more important one: turning off the main breaker with all the branch circuits left in the on position. The branch circuits should be turned off first and turned on last when shutting off and turning back on the main breaker to avoid damage to the breaker due to arcing.
This is an electrician's rule...not a homeowner.....lol
Horseshit
@@electvolt67uhh, this is anyone with a brain's rule who doesnt want a dangerous surge of power as soon as ALL the breakers demand ALL the power in the same millisecond.. "lol"
Overall a good video. A couple of comments
- Multiple wires into a single hole on a buss bar is allowed if its the ground bus bar and is rated for it. Some are rated for 1@ #10, 2 @ #12, 2 @ #14. Neutrals by code must each have their own.
- If you're able to calculate loads on each circuit, as much as possible balance the load on the panel. The panel is made to kind of do that, but may not have had the loads applied appropriately for the large load devices, especially when DIYers add things. Balancing the expected loads makes power use more efficient. Unbalanced loads can actually wind up costing more in electrical bills. Safety wise, balancing the loads means the neutral can remain neutral. When the loads aren't balanced, the neutral will start to carry voltage/current, and that can cause dangerous conditions within your home.
Excellent comments EXCEPT that you failed to explain what you mean by "balancing the expected loads". You should explain the two halves of a typical 240V split-phase panel. Then it will be possible to explain balancing the loads between them. I'd also point out that when the panel cover is removed and there are some unused circuit breaker locations (or if you remove a few CBs), one can see the "interlaced fingers" of the two hot bars, allowing one to understand how to easily balance loads without complex wiring. I hope this helps anyone confused by your CORRECT, but somewhat confusing, phraseology.
@@SFFrog I figured people would search TH-cam for appropriate videos. It really takes more than can be contained in a comment.
And although 120/240 is the most common used in residences, some are 208Y/120. Best to leave people to find full instructions.
You're probably thinking about the ground wire. The neutral wire is designed to carry current, otherwise you wouldn't be able to switch off any load in your house. And that is if the panel is wired in a way that creates a perfect balanced combined load within the two phases. Most cases aren't.
@@VMFRD Nope, the neutral. Neutral is the pinion of a see-saw. When the loads are perfectly balanced, the neutral carries no load. However, in practice that isn't the case, so the neutral carries the imbalance back to the common point on the transformer to complete the circuit. A great example of this is that the neutral on a 3-phase feed to a device isn't 3 conductors, nor is it a wire rated for 3x the current. Only when you're feeding something which may be operated with the phases not always in balance is the neutral oversized (sometimes doubled).
@@l00k4tstuff Well you have just re-write my comment with a more detailed explanation. So where is the part that carrying current through neutral is dangerous? Only if you exceed the rated current for the neutral conductor you're in a problematic situation.
It's worth mentioning that back in olden in the old days (say 25 years ago), All NM Romex style cable had the same white color sheathing, regardless of its gage. When checking for over fusing of circuits what appears to be an over fused 15 amp (14 gage) circuit may actually be correctly fused 20 amp circuit with white sheathed 12 gage wire.
That’s great to know and definitely worth pointing out. Thanks!
A lot of upgrades that were done to my house in the 90s used 12 gauge cable that had a blue sheath. And I still have some 12 gauge cable that was installed in the 60s with a black sheath. So, color can be a guide but nothing to trust unless you know the history of the building.
I still have about 75' of white 12/2 that my uncle gave me. I use it for extending outlets and relocating light fixtures as needed.
It all had white outer insulation but it was clearly marked with the gauge. It was usually printed, but sometimes embossed. I've seen both. If you can see either end (J-box or panel), it's pretty obvious anyway. I think it's more to help the installer than someone coming around later.
I have that issue. Every circuit that has a 30A breaker is going to be checked to confirm wire gauge. I'll first check the wire size at the breaker panel then out on the end where the lights and plugs are installed. I have a micrometer that reads in thousandth of an inch so with that I can easily measure actual copper wire size.
The panel at 13:09 is beautiful. Personally, I always leave extra length on the hot wires, because you never know when in the distant future things may have to be rearranged, or a panel upgraded. I usually run the wire down to near the bottom of the enclosure and back up to the breaker. I still make it nice and pretty, but that extra length can be a life saver in the future. I've personally thanked quite a few electricians who came before me for doing this, as I'm sure some electricians in the future will thank me long after I'm dead.
As a home inspector, I agree, that panel is not only a work of art, it's so nice to inspect or work on. Unfortunately, a lot of older homes have the rat's nest style.
I used to work with guys who told me not to do that, just send it straight to the breaker. I really do like bringing it down to the bottom of the panel then up tot he breaker myself and that's what i've been doing since i've been on my own
@@goaliedude32 That's because it takes time and time is money; I only do this kind of wiring on my own panels because it sure makes troubleshooting easier and inspections a cake walk.
I came to the comments to say the same thing. If you have room in the panel to keep it neat, drop a loop down to the bottom and then neatly back to the breaker. Somebody will probably thank you in the future.
I always leave... well left an extra 6-8inches of wire in case something has to be moved so another circuit can be added.
A couple of tips for updating your panel schedule.
1) make a layout drawing for your house marking the locations of all outlets and all light fixtures. A drawing thats not to scale is fine. You will turn off all curcuits and only have one circuit on at a time. You will mark on your drawing the circuit number at each location that you detect power. This drawing will be used to help you write a more accurate panel schedule. Any unused spaces with breakers in them can be marked as spare on the panel schedule. Keep in mind that you can have outlets and lights in crawl spaces, attics, and closets. Sometimes you'll find equipment (water heater, dehumidifier, air handler, etc) in these locations. If you have a hardwired doorbell, don't forget to check what circuit that is on.
2) they make printer paper that is a sticker. You can print off your own schedule. Alternately, you can print on regular printer paper and use packaging tape to secure it to the panel.
One common mistake many homeowners make is storing items in front of the panel or not having a clear path to the panel. You're supposed to keep the work area and access path clear. The work space extends 3 feet from the face of the panel and is 30 inches wide. The safe access path is supposed to be 3 feet wide. All this is so that you have ready access to the panel in an emergency.
I want to second this from someone who has done a lot of networking installs. Having a basic drawing (ms paint is fine) and labels of where stuff goes makes the difference between a 10mins job vs an all day job.
@@MatthewMattoxcube8021 even a rough handwritten drawing often helps.
I'm glad I did this with my home. I think an observer would be keen to learn that the utility room light is on the same circuit as the guest room receptacles.
@@BigMikeECV some houses are wired with all the lights on one circuit. A lot of newer homes have the bedroom lights on the same circuit as the bedroom receptacles because of the early arc fault rules.
I grew up in a house where the main panel was in the master bedroom closet, at the back of the closet. That house was built in the 1950s. So much for a "clear path" to the panel during an emergency.
M.E. here. Nice video, well explained. I got a chuckle out of the clean organized panel you showed at the end. I LOVE clean work, THAT'S the guy I want on my crew or doing service calls. But then I looked closer, and saw the circuit wires labeled in numerical order from top left down, then top right down, rather than odd circuits left, even circuits right. I know this was probably from the pull, labeling the romex as each home run was pulled to their location - but then you need to have a pull drawing to know exactly where everything went, if their numbering isn't going to match the panel cover. Hardly the end of the world, just gave me a little chuckle. It's the little things, sometimes. 🙂
A good little trick when roughing in a residential panel is to cut off a 2" piece of romex sleeve and slide it over the homerun hot conductor as you land the wire this also cuts down any confusion which wire controls what circuit. Plus it saves time when labeling the panel!
Good video. One point- Neutral lines can never be double tapped to the bus bar. Grounds can often be double tapped or even triple tapped in some panels. The panel will say how many grounds can be inserted in a single lug. The risk of heating/cooling ( expansion/contraction) is minimal with grounds since they rarely carry current, unlike the neutrals which carry current whenever the circuit is used.
one point: it is currently acceptable to code to land two SAME SIZE AND STRANDING ground wires in one terminal. in some brands of boxes, it is also necessary to do that, or to add additional grounding bars.
Correct! Readers here should know that adding an additional ground bar correctly is simple, inexpensive to buy, and time-saving.
Its a video, not a course. Does this guy not have other videos out that pertain to this subject?
I was looking for this comment because I thought I remembered reading something about this being allowable.
5:51 if you are going to use a wire nut to combine grounds, consider using a green "grounding wire nut" that has a hole on the end allowing one of the wires to continue at full lenght to land on the grounding bar. This way you don't have an unnecessary extra wire in a "pig tail" to make the final connection to the grounding bar.
Try not to use those, you'll look like a better electrician. 😉
Buccannon crimp
Those wire nuts are horrible to work with after the fact, they only hold well if the wire are twisted together significantly more than necessary. which makes working with the wires again in the future a nightmare.
I like one wire one ground not 1 wire grounding 4 circuits. I am surprised that will pass code. Also a good pair of 600volts gloves make things much safer.
@@voltmeter2 so if you have 4 circuits in a conduit you are going to pull 4 separate grounds?
As a DIYer, I use a P-Touch labeler to stick labels onto the breakers (makes it easy to see what’s what even with the cover off) and onto each cable coming out of the panel. Saves so much headache down the line and 3rd party p-touch tape is available in a wide variety of colors and sizes (6mm tape is the perfect size for labeling romex)
Great tip!
I use clear tape, black ink and label my wall plates , including the transfer switch breakers.
That works great...until they start falling off. I used my P-Touch to label the drawers on some parts bins about 15 years ago and a while back they started falling off on their own. The ones I've stuck on paper seem to stay just fine, but the ones stuck to plastic eventually give up the ghost. Still not a bad idea, I would just consider wrapping them with a piece of clear tape so if they do come loose, they don't just fall off.
ever hear of SHARPIE marker?
I use my P-Touch labeler often, but for my breaker panel I list out the breaker associations in an Excel table, and print it out (on a regular printer) when things change. Then I cut the table out of the printer paper, and tape it inside the box.
Just had a new 200A panel installed. The inspector checked the torque on every fastener in the panel and also checked the backing nuts were tight on all the connectors. Checked wire size matched the breaker size. Then outside the panel, he checked the set screws were tight on on every EMT connector in sight. Very thorough inspection, glad I had an electrician who knew the inspector and what he would be looking for so that there weren't any rejections.
Damn that inspector has a Napoleon complex. I'm a master electrician with 40 years of experience, I've wired over 1500 panels. Residential, commercial, industrial, Marine and even federal government work never seen any inspector check ft lbs or in lbs of torque.
He just checked minimum torque, I bet, so not Napoleon sociopath. NapoleonEC, check for too much torque!
I’m a master electrician of 50 years. Most inspectors do a visual inspection, because there’s a liability factor once they touch your work. They may for example check your torque on tools but that’s the extent of it. That inspector had other issues
Wish the electricians that did my house would have tightened all the lugs I found one that got hot and it was barley finger tight and it had been final signed off buy the inspector. I called the electrician he said they would come out and fix it never saw them again I got the torque specs from an NEC manual and tightend it myself.
For DIYers: if you need to replace a circuit breaker, bring the old one to the store so they can help you find the appropriate replacement. If you haven't removed it yet, take a close-up picture of the breaker and the box label. Boxes only accept compatible breakers, and even some brands have different boxes.
YOU must replace a home line with same or a bryant with same or seimens breaker with same U CAN'T MIX BREAKER MANUFACTURES NOPE!!!!!!!
I worked at Lowe's and saw some pretty gnarly pics of hacks that people did to their panels.
If it takes a saw or a hammer to put the new breaker in, you have the wrong breaker.
"Call this guy. He is an electrician. He will get your problem fixed without you dying"
Great video, but in the section covering torquing the wire connections on the breakers you should have noted that the screw lugs on the circuit breakers installed in the breaker panel are hot unless they are switched off or the main panel breaker is switched off. Likewise, a statement should be included that the lugs with the allen wrench style wire clamps on the transformer side of the main disconnect breaker are always hot and should be avoided (they should also have insulating covers on them per code, but I've never seen a panel in use that had them). The lugs on the other side of the main breaker are hot if the breaker is on.
Line side lug covers only starred being used in residential panels approximately 10 years ago.
What brings you to this video? Just critiquing? You don't seem to need this information, huh?
7:14 most load center manufacturers, like Square D we see here, are OK with doubling up grounding (ground) conductors per grounding buss hole. While NEC doesn't seem to explicitly allow it, NEC doesn't explicitly disallow it either. The reasoning is that the grounding conductor is only meant to carry fault current and should not experience the heat/expansion cycles like that of a current carrying conductor like the grounded (neutral) conductor.
Though in your case, it looks like you have more than enough terminal spaces on your ground buss and the previous installer really didn't need to resort to doubling up grounding conductors like that.
But overall, agreed with the sentiment regarding Neutrals, NEC 408.21 forbids double tapping grounded (neutral) connections at the buss termination.
I came here to say the same.
It is worth mentioning load balancing - installing circuits such that current is taken from each side of the 120 volt split evenly.
not in a single 240v split supply, this isn't a three phase panel.
That can be incredibly difficult to do in a residential panel where the majority of the usage is short-term period circuits. You can maybe try to divide the larger power appliances like dryers, blower motors, and microwaves on opposite sides, but you cannot control when those circuits are used so the balancing is virtually useless.
Not Necessarily, most breaker panels double 3 wire circuits using one neutral need to be together (like a double pole without the bar), if they are across from each other, they would be on the same phase and the neutral amperage return would be the amount of amp draws of each side added together, whereas when the breakers
I just finished helping my son clean up an electrical panel that had more code violations than proper practices and we saw most of your issues and then some. But, there is one additional issue with the typical home breaker boxes, more specifically the Molded Case Circuit Breaker itself. Breakers are internally lubricated to ensure they trip properly. After many years of sitting in one position, the lubricant becomes hard and impeeds the proper operation of the breaker. Recent preventative mainenance practices require each breaker be exercised several times every couple of years to keep the lubricant from hardening. It is a really simple task, especially during an unscheduled power outage, to walk down and cycle each breaker a few times. It helps to ensure its proper operation of protecting you and your home. Hope this helps.
As an English Journeyman Electrician it is really fun working with 240v single phase on a 30 amp ring main. 2.5mm cable comes out of the breaker circum navigates the house then the far end goes back into the same breaker, Servicing 13 amp mostly dual switched outlets available for 3 pin plugs each with its own fuse. 1 breaker for downstairs and 1 breaker for upstairs. Water heaters, cookers, etc have their own breaker. The I.E.E. Regulations are very interesting.
Do you blokes still install new ring mains? This seems like such a bad idea, and should have gone away a long time ago. Is it really worth the risk for the small amount of wire it might save? It seems to me, from this side of the pond, that it would be far safer to use a larger panel (consumer unit?), break the ring, and put each leg on its own breaker. What are the advantages of a ring main in 2024? A ring main and a homeowner DIYer seems a deadly combination.
Mistake #3.5 @ 3:55 - do not turn away from the panel to face the camera while waving your hand near the live connections :)
I could feel my blood pressure rise everytime.
The problem with doing this and several other instances of near-misses is that it conveys to the novice that working with electricity is no big deal. Never once did he stress the critical importance of not touching live circuits within the panel. I'm afraid that this video would encourage the uninitiated do-it-yourself home handyman that safety can be taken lightly.
I made that mistake once, there was no exposed wiring but I tripped a few beakers that required a maintenance guy to go on the roof of the building to reset something.
How would you feel if in a gun video the instructor was pointing the empty gun at his head and pulling the trigger, knowing that the gun was empty. That's what prodding the wires is in this video. Instant "Do not recommend channel"
It's switched off. He says this near the end. Granted he should have mentioned it near the beginning that the entire breaker is non-operational.
My grandfather was an electrician from the 1930s - 1970s. NOTHING on earth pissed him off more than no or wrong labeling in a panel! (it's even WORSE in a commercial setting!) I have religiously labeled mine and relabeled ones in places I rented. This is easiest on day one BEFORE you set up your furniture, so you can check every outlet! Fun fact: When my grandfather had HIS house built (Early 1950s) He wired all of the branch circuits with #12AWG, even on the circuit that were fused at 15 Amps! Then again,, he was a man to changes his car's oil more often than what the manual said to. Not one to take chances! 👍😊👍
So... He just liked to waste money.
@@therightiswrong4517 90% Commercial, 10% Residential.
This is more personal preference, but I always double stripe my wires when recoding them. Too many times I’ll see what seems like half a roll of electrical tape just to recode a wire. As a point of safety, I always remove the tape to make sure someone wasn’t trying to hide damaged insulation (seen it more often than not). By using a SMALL amount of tape to make two stripes close together, it clearly recodes the wire without making it look like a repair.
But that doesn’t satisfy code. If you don’t want to cover the conductor in tape you can make 3 lines the entire length of the conductor with a sharpie.
As a master electrician in Wisconsin, we are required to re-color the entire length of the white branch circuit conductor from the point of entry into the panel if that conductor is being used as a hot. This can be accomplished by use of a permanent marker or electrical tape. Following phase color is important but not required, just as long as the color is not white if the conductor is used as a hot.
The NEC from when I was still doing electrical said at least 2 inches of wire completely covering the end. I would wrap black, red, purple, or green (sometimes people used white as a ground?) before stripping the end of the wire so that the tape color was what you say when you checked the breakers.
I created my own breaker labels using Microsoft office. I then printed it out, laminated it, and used magnets to attach it to the breaker box door (so I can update and change it easily). It's really easy to do and far better than the stickers you buy.
Thank You sir, 5 stars from me. I did my own 200 amp service in a shop/building. I got 100 % according to you. Also I did my ground rod and grounding as well as I could. I couldn't make my panel wiring as pretty as your example but that is what I was trying for and it is certainly not a rats nest. I am a retired Union pipefitter and in our area of the world that includes the HVAC service world. So glad you included the tightening torque and going back every year to check tightness. . Skip that step and burn a terminal off of a large compressor and you could be looking for a job. It is so important! One last thing, Your presentation and your clean cut appearance make people feel secure when you come to there door. Versus someone wearing their clothes multiple days, hair all over their face, kicking the mud off their boots on your porch and I'm sure from looking at you, you know what I mean. I subscribed and want to see in your other videos what I may have done wrong. Thank You again, It was a pleasure.
Nice clear to understand video! Remember, older NM (non-metallic) white plastic covered cable, “Romex” may be 12 gauge wire as well as 14 Gauge wire. It is nice to have color coding of the wire jacket, especially for inspection purposes. I notice the plastic bushing was missing on the incoming SE (service entrance) cable in the circuit breaker panel. On the Square D circuit breaker, you could use the second wire port to hook up the surge protector in the panel. Great job!
the throat of the clamp for the SE cable is chamfered to prevent cable damage - if your inspector is requiring the bushing, he is being a jerk.
The color coding for NM probably came from lazy inspectors who couldn't be bothered to look at the jacket. That and hiring moronic apprentices to run wire who also couldn't be bothered to read the jacket either.
i have an assortment of old wires in different colors black, white, grey cloth covered with silver all different gauges.
@@ranger178 i used to have a piece of lead sheathed UF cable in my collection.
A little note about "prettying up" a circuit breaker panel - be careful with your wire bends; the NEC stipulates a minimum bend radius of 8 times the conductor diameter. I once saw a panel that had been rewired by the property owner and it was very neat, but all the conductors had very tight right-angle bends; he was so proud of his work, I didn't have the heart to tell him it was a code violation. The one you showed in your video would be considered acceptable, the bends are gently curved.
Great point. I’ll keep that in mind for sure.
The tight turns stretch the crystals of copper in the wire and create uneven resistance points within the wire and can create hot spots under a heavily loaded wire.
@@LRN2DIY - What you said about derating a panel is not necessary. I used to work at Westinghouse D&C and trust me those panels are made to do the full load all day long and more. Just like there is no 12 guage (yes I know they are rated at 20A) wire out there that will not carry 30 amps and do it very well all day long... they only start to get slightly warm at 40. Beyond 40A on a 12 guage is where things become much more interesting. The buss bars in that panel will handle the 150 quite well. The weak points in an existing panel is the old breakers, the clamps for the input lines if they are corroded or even just tarnished. And the connections for the neutrals and grounds. If you remove the meter, clean up all the connections and put in new breakers, the panel is good as new and I have done this on a couple places I rented because I wanted to head off any possibilities of BS or trouble. I hope that shed some light on it. There is a good video here on YT of a man testing the power handling capacity of Romex wire. Also PhotonicInduction has done some experiments with current and what will and will not happen under loads.
@KlodFather
The NEC is pretty conservative, for good reason. Yes it's true that wire could possibly carry more current than NEC allows under normal conditions, and it would do so happily and safely for years. But what happens when the wrong cluster of events lines up to stress the insulation of the wire (hottest day of the summer, drawing the most load the breaker allows [let's just say it's in an air conditioned room and doesn't trip until running more than 100% rating - I've certainly seen this before], etc). Now that undersized wire gets well warmer than the insulation was rated to handle and it starts to melt. Reminder, it's not the conductor that cares about the temperature (at this point). Now the insulation on the current carrying conductors is compromised and you have a recipe for sparks, which will likely start a fire. It's not a coincidence that the NEC is actually an article written by the NFPA [National Fire Protection Association].
Another anecdote, a friend of mine once mentioned about someone he knew running an entire trailer off an either 12 or 14 AWG extension cord. It didn't cause a problem for them because they had the extension cord strung up overhead and therefore had a lot of ability to disperse heat... I certainly don't recommend that
What's the code source on that?
Radius bend rule applies only to wire CABLING from my understanding, not individual conductors and the whole "hot spot" debate related to individual conductors isn't a concern at least in panels from my previous research.
If that was something to be concerned about imagine how many houses would be burning down due to mangled up wiring in device junction boxes we all deal with daily in the electrical trade.
Way back I apprenticed for a couple of years before changing careers and have always done my own electrical since, and one common thing I've seen.... most (not all) of the worst electrical work I've seen has come from licensed guys, in a hurry to make those profits. Most diy's are somewhat paranoid so they research to death then generally take the extra steps.
I recently had a panel added that had a few more spaces than the old panel. Since the house is older, several circuits had outlets & switches from different rooms on one circuit. What I did was typed up a sheet laying out each breaker as shown in the panel and listed each outlet, switch, etc, placed it in a sheet protector and taped it to the outside of the panel.
That is what I have done. A complete list of each breaker and what outlets/circuits/routes it services. The text for the list is on my computer and can be updated, printed out if and when it changes.
Same here.
I was also annoyed at the suggestion that #1 was done by DIYers. Every home I've owned or worked on, has absolutely useless descriptions and always from the original "professional" contractor.
I have every single outlet, light, baseboard heater, fan etc, listed in precise detail (even down to which side of a split outlet) on my breaker panel. I made a separate sheet, laminated it and taped it to the panel.
it has come in very handy over the years.
Excellent video. Im a homeowner and occasionally will make a simple repair but call in the electrician for real repair needs. About 9 years ago I had the overhead line running to my house replaced with an underground line to my house through a transfer switch and a new pole for my meter with a new meter box with 3 power legs and it's own shutoff switch. And the inspector was able to inspect it the same day the work was completed. Best upgrade this house had in years.
What do you call "real repair needs"? Do you know that 5 ma will.kill you?
Dude waving his hands and fingers around near the main lugs was giving me cold sweats
Also wearing a ring! May not be conductive but can be a catch hazard cause you to inadvertently move your hand in wrong direction!
Exactly!
ESPECIALLY while talking about "are you qualified and confident that you can mess with electrical" while looking into the camera and away from the box.
Yes, please give me more safety advice! 🤣
Maybe shoulda been titled "11" common mistakes
I just typed how I'd deal with it so I didn't need to stress touching things in the fuse box while I was actually working, but it might encourage someone else to try and cut the power before the fuse box who didn't know what they were doing and I don't want to be responsible for any deaths today. lol
120v relative to you isnt enough to arc more than a millimeter, and just dont touch it.
Oh yes!! He is inches away having a ring welded to a lug and flash burn city. Bad.mistake
The guy that wired my house used the wrong screw on my neutral wire to my sub panel, I came home one day and walked by my panel and thought it was awful warm as I walked by, I removed the cover and sparks was flying out and the plastic clip that was holding the neutral bar was melting as well. The house was 7 years old at the time. It took that long for it to happen. The sad part was the correct screw was lying in the bottom of the box. I had to relocate the wire and up higher due to the damage threads and 10 years on still working great.
Was he one of those over rated electricians that charge out the ace because he thought he was another gift from heaven electrician?
You’re doing a very nice job explaining all the code that’s involved with electrical panels I’ve been doing it for 50 years and I’ve seen a lot of changes
You remind me a lot of I guy I used to work with. He was great at explaining things, looked a bit like you and always left people he talked to happy. So take the compliment, no bow necessary, grin.
Nils, this is a great video. As someone who inspects electrical panels almost every day, the basic knowledge you gave for DIYers and homeowners is great. Your tip on what is referred to as "double tapping" of hot wires to the same breaker is so beneficial.
Thanks, Mitch! I bet you have some horror stories about things you've seen. I remember your case of recently dealing with the steel beams that had to be undone with all of the rocks on top and I can only imagine what you see on a day to day basis!
With LED lights being so low voltage and amps would double-tapping lighting circuits be fine? other than the inconvenience of having 2 rooms off when needing to do any repairs?
@@jetah50 The reason double tapping is dangerous is because when two wires are installed on the same tap, there is always a chance of one of the wires becoming loose, which then can cause arching. The copper metal can expand and contract at different rates, depending on their use and load, thus allowing movement that will cause one of the wires to become loose.
@@jetah50 For most normal-sized rooms/bedrooms lighting will never cause significant heating of the wires. With modern LED lighting running upwards of 100 lumens/watt a 15A circuit can supply about 130,000 lumens (~80 100-watt lightbulbs equivalent light) worth of light. Running two rooms' worth of light-only circuits is fine. But, it may be preferable to install a tandem 15A breaker to maintain independent supply to each room at a cost of about $10 more for a tandem vs standard.
Personally what I prefer when dealing with small breaker pannels is using a 15A/20A tandem breaker for each individual room for lighting and outlets (except the bathroom and kitchen), each room has its own breaker and each function has its own circuit.
I educate myself to the point i feel i can do it, then i call in an expert. At least then i know if he is ripping me off. A man has to know his limitations ~ Clint Eastwood
A very good way to do it if you don't feel fully comfortable working in a breaker box.
It's only a ripoff until you die from a mistake you made doing it yourself. 🤣
Aside from that, professional work almost always comes warrantied for a period of time, usually electrical is a year(labor and installed parts). These guarantees aren't necessarily cheap...
One thing I wish all manufacturers would do is put two hooks on the top holes to hold the panel cover. Siemens is the only one (in our area) that does that. Good info for those that dont know.
Whts nice in some with dead fronts especially in commercial the door hooks r great I love them design a open the door fully lift uphill out. Then four screws to dead front to the holding brackets n thts it. Weight is much less also
One of my journeymen at work introduced me to what he calls "panel buddies". We take two long quarter 20 screws and cut off the head, then screw them partway into the top corners of a panel, or any kind of can really, and then hang the cover on it while we tap the rest of the holes if they're not present, or just use it to hold the panel in place while we drive the other screws. Then pull them out at the end and place the last 2 screws
@@OutageousVibes360 What????????
Some do.
Oohhh: That perfectly organized loom of wiring in the circuit panel was VERY satisfying. I noticed and commented at a friend's house that all of her cover plates' screws were all perfectly aligned vertically, and she then showed me her circuit panel - it was just like this one.
I try, but I can never seem to get them this neat and organized.
Thank you for that gratifying picture.
Lol. I've always aligned all my finish/trim plates in a vertical position. Can't tell you how many times I've had customers say nobody was in that box or touched that device when I've seen that the screws weren't in the position I left them in. I got that from the James Bond movie Dr. No. Bond plucks out one of his hairs, licks it and places it across the closet doors. To verify that someone had messed with his stuff!!!
Too neatly bundled wires have a risk to overheat
Nice vídeo, Just one comment, breakers don't "push" ampers through the wires. Actually, the reason we want breakers and wires matching is rather the opposite.
If you have a short in a 14 gage wire, if the breaker is set for too high current to break the circuit, because of the wire thickness that current may not be achieved until it's too late. You may have a fire started if the wire is allowed to burn hot for long.
Remember, current is required by the load, not pushed by the source.
Thank you for the video!
In my early years as a journeyman electrician, I got busted for not having the panel labeled before I called for the inspection. I was going to do it, but hadn't got around to it first. My boss was pissed! He had to pay for an additional inspection. Lucky he didn't make me cover it. After that, I started writing the circuit number on the inside of the outlet box with a magic marker, in addition to making sure the panel was labeled correctly.
Mislabeling was definitely a big point of frustration for me when we bought our home. It took more than half a day to trace out every receptacle and light. Fast forward a few years to last year and we decided to add rooftop solar system and upgrade the 150 amp panel to a 200 amp Span smart panel (already had 200 amp service to the box).
Unfortunately, the solar installers did not follow my labeling scheme so I had to go about relabeling everything all over again. 😭
On the bright side, it was a lot easier with the Span panel as I just went from receptacle to receptacle with a high-draw appliance (hair iron), plug it in, and watch the usage spike on the correct circuit in my Span app. I was shocked that Span doesn't offer some sort of tracing device that can of into the receptacle and have the panel itself label it as you go.
Oh man - sorry to hear you had to redo that. To your point, the Span must have made things much easier. I have looked into getting a Span but it definitely seems to make more sense if you have a battery backup and I don't. I'm excited to see where all that tech leads to in the future too. Thanks for watching!
I've been going a step further with my recent renos, in addition to labelling the panel. Brother makes a tiny 1/8" label tape for their P-Touch printers that I use to label all my receptacles with the associated breaker. It's so small that it doesn't really affect the look of the wall plates if I tuck it right in the corner. Any new work or rework gets a label inside the box too. Takes very little additional time, and it's a nice gift to future me when I need to find a breaker quickly.
Always read the specs on your load center before doing things. Square D allows two wires to be placed in the holes on the neutral or ground bars. They need to be 12 gauge at the max and need to be paired with the same size wire. Yes one wire is ideal but if done properly it is ok. Also know how many breakers you load center can handle, you can put twin breakers anywhere in a Homeline series but a QO series has different rules. Older QOs could have twins anywhere, newer QOs can only have twins on the bottom five spaces on each side, and the newest QOs are being recommended to not use twins at all. Its all in the part number, a HOM4080 has 40 spaces but can have 80 circuits if filled with twins. The sticker on the inside of the door will tell you everything you need to know from spaces to acceptable breaker replacements and parts. Also most loadcenters use generic covers/doors just because you open the door and see two spaces left to knockout to add a circuit doesn't mean that you have two available slots on the bus.
Most codes stipulate just one neutral wire per hole; the QO and other brands may allow two Ground wires, only of the same diameter (2-12, 2-14). Code always takes precedence over a mfg. specs, and also usually demands just one wire per breaker, regardless of the stamped spec. A legal option is to pigtail more than one hot, and only put one into the breaker - cannot mix 14 with 20 ga. if going to a 15A. breaker. Our 50 year old home has had a lot of lighting added, and it feels tricky that so many branches all tie to one or two early "lighting" circuits, yet in practice especially as more LEDs are used, the amperage load on these do not get high as many lights are not on at once. A kitchen circuit might have a toaster, blender, mixer, radio, on at once, adding up for a couple hours at a time - where balancing loads as a concept enters, so phases offset and reduce a high return load on a single neutral. Making older wiring safer, yet not up to modern codes, can be a tricky art.
Thanks for this! Being a DIYer, I’d shy away from electrical but I’ve been gaining experience and confidence. Well I just had an interlock kit installed by someone and now that I saw this, I could have done it better than the electrician that came out! You’re awesome!
Safety is the extra millage that saves troubles and even lifes. One time i was installing a fixture , being too lazy to reach the breaker i short-circuit the wires with a screwdriver , a spark resulted in a small ball of burning copper that landed on the sink causing a spot .
Good video.
Nice explanation. But never, never put your hands or fingers in the panel unless everyone knows it is shut down. Not sure you commented on that
Thank you. I'll let professionals handle this if I ever need it. 😉
Always a safe choice, Will. I love working with this stuff but it's best to call a pro if you're at all unsure. Thanks for watching, brother!
Torquing the screws is the only one of these that have gotten me. We were in a new build home about 2 years and a screw came loose on a breaker. The wire pulled out and shut off the circuit. Of course this only happened to one circuit - the furnace, in Minnesota, mid winter. Probably about midnight. About 2:30 or 3 I woke up due to the cold and realize the furnace wasn't running, but we have power to the house... Not fun chasing problems half asleep and with a sense of urgency. Found it after a few minutes and got everything working again. One of my best examples of "Murphy's Law" - wouldn't happen to an unimportant circuit on a warm sunny summer afternoon. Noooo, of course not...
I have to laugh because I've been there but man, that stinks. Our issue was with the A/C in mid July, also middle of the night. Darn that Murphy!
At the same time it's a great testament to checking in on those lugs once in a while - could save a lot of trouble. I'm a believer! Thanks for sharing that experience too.
@@LRN2DIY These are the kinds of things that only have to happen to you once to convert you to a believer. I'll probably invest in one of those torque-controlled screwdrivers. Maybe add this to my once-a-year preventative maintenance list. I thought I was just unlucky, I didn't realize this is a thing.
These kind of reminders are things that Google Calendar is great at setting up and reminding you. Hey, that's an idea for you - maybe you already have it on your website (I haven't looked). How about a preventative maintenance list for new homeowners - furnace filters, smoke detector batteries, HVAC service, water heater service, sprinkler systems, etc. All the things you want to plug into your favorite calendar app.
@@philipstaite4775 I love it, Phillip. I have thought about doing a video like this for a while and still might. Gotta love those easy recurring calendar appointments too. I use that now for filter swapping and a few others. Technology FTW!
I'm not an electrician; I just get called to fix their mistakes 😁. Was mildly curious about your video that popped up, so skimmed through - VERY impressive. Simple explanations packed with clear info, no fluff. If I were JUST a stupid homeowner, I'd think I could rewire my house after seeing your videos!
re overloading panel: If you've switched to LED lighting those circuits will draw a lot less power, a lot! Also, replacing CFL or (gasp!) Edison bulbs while they're still working pays for itself in months, so don't wait until the old ones burn out, replace them now.
As an apprentice I loved wiring panels to look like that beautiful example. However, the Master Electrician who trained me said I was taking too long and it really wasn’t necessary. We split the difference. 😊
Take that ring off if you are going into a panel…..or someone will take it off when you’re deceased at the hospital !
I would like to add putting fiberglass insulation inside of the panel. I found that 2 weeks ago at my shop when I was adding a new circuit. Apparently the old owners were worried about the little bit of air coming in through the service line entrance so they risked a huge fire hazard instead.
Wow - that's pretty crazy that they did that. Super dangerous stuff. Glad you found it and took care of it!
fiberglass doesn't burn so what is the issue unless the breakers need ventilation
@@JamesAnderson-mr2sg Current generates heat in wiring and conductors, so ventilation is key. Even subtle overheating issues can lead to loose connections.
@@usernameerikhoover i did mention ventilation in my comment
Thanks,
My main breaker is located outside and the panel inside was evidently modified into a sub panel by removing the main breaker.
This left a hole in the front of the main panel.
I knew it was unsafe, so I covered it with duct tape. I also knew this wasn't the right way, but it was "safer" than leaving it open.
Now I know what is needed to fill that hole.
I’ve been a professional electrician for 11 years and I like your channel! You’re very competent in your endeavors.
No, you don't test to see if there is no current running through them. 0:37 / 13:54. You test for voltage.
Thanks for the heads up on that. I'm always looking to correct my vocab - it's one of the things I kinda suck at :)
1. You want to add a sub panel so the main panel won't be overloaded. Well, where do you think the sub panel gets its power from? From 2 spaces in the main panel. So you haven't changed the load on the main panel. Sub panels only add more breaker spaces. By the way, your panel is already a sub panel. That is why there is a 4th wire as a ground and the grounds and neutrals are separated and the main bonding jumper is not installed. Your main panel is where the main disconnecting means is located. A main panel that contains the main breaker does not need a separate , 4th wire, grounding conductor. That is most likely why you see some cut off.
2. Changing the color of a white wire to be used as a hot requires the entire wire be re-identified every place it is exposed, meaning every junction box it's in.
You want to instruct but you are not qualified.
Thank god someone said it, licensed Electrician here I was grinding my teeth watching this. So tired of completely ignorant diyers passing on misinformation as if they fully grasp the topic. Idk why ppl think adding the numbers on breakers equates to total amperage used/available. Every single one of those single pole breakers could be thinned down to twins and much more space created in that 1st panel. We often in the trade refer to this as thinning breakers down 😂. If your consumption requires more than existing panel thats a simple answer.. you need a service change to either 200a or 400amp service 😑
It's possible with special fuses to make some load distribution in a sub panel (in a main panel you hardly find a good place). I don't know if these are common in the US, but it should get available with EV-charging (reduce the car's power if you need hot water, with off the dryer as long you need hot water in the kitchen, ...).
Sometimes you need ground in the main panel, sometimes not. Don't take any assumption if you work with this. You are right that most homes don't need the 4th wire as ground, but the breaker you are working with may be a strange case where it's different (it should be labeled). Here was a small settlement which got converted from industrial environment, it got all the industrial wires still in place but used as flats --> no ground connection anywhere and many electricians got screwed by this installation (one short to ground and everything works still fine, you could even touch one wire). Every electrician loved to search for fault if the ground fault sensor went off (th-cam.com/video/maJaBQyd1XA/w-d-xo.html).
It was a running gag for every new electrician who worked first in this settlement (strange wiring, noting makes sense until somebody pointed out these flats use a high grade one fault tolerance industrial/hospital wiring). It's easier to spot in the US as there are special hospital grade receptacles (hospitals need this strange wiring for life support systems).
Must make sure the line conductors are sufficient enough to handle the extra load of so called sub panel
Ever noticed that the service drop to every dwelling only has three conductors? The true grounding conductor actually originates from the earth via ground rods. In some places two ground rods are required an unbroken grounding conductor is imperative to the function of a proper grounding system!!
@@badpenny8986 With tandem breakers the panel manufacturer MUST specify that tandems can be used and they also specify in which spaces they can be used.
You also cannot exceed the maximum number of breakers for that panel as specified by the manufacturer and the code.
Unless the code has changed in recent years, the ground wires are allowed to be two to a hole in the bars, provided they are the same gauge. This is easily verified by looking at the chart on the door that specifies wire sizes per terminal, torques, approved breakers, etc.
You're correct. It's not allowed for neutrals but is permissible for ground. A lot of folks shy away from it because it is believed to increase the likelihood of one of the wires becoming loose.
@@LRN2DIY when playing with power its better to be safe than sorry.
It's only allowed if the panel is listed to allow it. It's not automatic.
Or just buy another bar
Even 3 on cutler hammer. You can find the info on the panel door
I can attest that double or triple tapped neutrals can be an issue, and I'm pretty sure this was done by a licensed electrician when the building was built. I own an apartment building built in I think 1965. One of my tenants was having an issue with one of his receptacles. Fortunately I have labeled the box so I knew which wire it was in the box. When I opened the box there were not 2 but 3 neutrals going to one lug on the buss bar. One of the neutrals had gotten so hot that it had burned the insulation and reduced the gauge of the wire to probably 16 or less. Fortunately there was enough wire where I could trim the wire back to good wire and salvage the situation. I have since checked the other boxes in the building and found that this was a common practice. I have since separated all of the neutrals and they are now on their own lugs. Kind of scary when you think about it. Keep the good stuff coming.
That nasty box is so old... Having all the ground/Neutral at the top makes it very difficult to work on. I did Residential Electrical for 20 years and replaced 10 panels, not including the work I did on a buddies house outside my state. I've seen some crazy dangerous electrical in that tine, from electrified Knob and Tube in an attic with boxes sitting on top of the wires to late 1800s electrical in an adobe farmhouse that had to be replaced by fishing new wire up through 18in thick mud bricks, and doing work on my own home that was electrified by the lowest bidder. You give good advice. Keep it up.
Idk if I’m gonna trust a guy who doesn’t know different between current and voltage because if you don’t have anything plugged in…even if the plug is active there won’t be current following because it’s an open circuit beyond that point.
The number one problem people do ALL the time is using standard screws for the cover, leading to a greater potential to cut a wire. You need to use blunt panel screws. Always check the panel with a noncontact voltage detector before putting your hands on the panel and use the back of your hand first.
well thats why you blunt the tip of a drywall screw before you use it in as a panel screw. I just jam em against bottom of panel, impact em till tip is nice and blunted
Tip: put a floor plan of the house/building next to the panel. Don't just label the circuits, _show_ them!
so whose amending the floor plan when something is added? as built plans are like hens teeth
@@harveylong5878 They're easier to keep current, than you might think.
I am a diy electrician and actually nailed all of these. The last one about the torque I never verified with my panels but I have been working on cars for 40 years and can estimate torque within a few inch pounds.
I find that I tighten the wire. Then when I go back in a few minutes it is looser than it was, so I tighten it again, the copper relaxes under the screw. It never needs more than 2 tightenings done.
Common sence. Great video. Doing electrical service helped when installing electricity. It did for me. 28yrs HVAC, Doing my own electrical. Sub panel, disconnects, moving breakers in panel area. Just take your time and always think about the next person that comes along because it just might be you.
First, IF this video includes any information that you didn't already know, I recommend that you DON'T remove your panel cover unless you are at least an apprentice with basic knowledge of how to work safely in a hot enclosure. All the extra tips in the comments are important. You could never include everything in one video. That is why Electricians get 4 years of training before they are eligible to test for a journeyman license. Anyone who skips the training is putting himself at risk. He could also be putting his family at risk. I have recently noticed that many younger electricians/apprentices don't always know the difference between a simple mistake and a fire hazard. Some of the minor mistakes they think could burn a house down makes me wonder if they would recognize a real fire hazard if they saw one. Then there are the electrocution hazards. Many people would be surprised to know what is most likely to cause electrocution (death caused by electrical shock) in a house. Some people might disagree, but a DIYer with no electrical training and little knowledge should not remove the breaker panel cover. Anyone who thinks it's okay for someone without a good understanding of electrical theory or at least some supervised, educational experience working on residential electrical system including some knowledge of practical wiring methods to make changes or upgrades inside a breaker panel is just wrong. However, every person is the first and last person responsible for his/her own safety. So we all must dictate our own actions and live with the results or die from them.
On the white as load, you now need to find all the other ends and make sure they are marked at each box.
I don’t think this guy is a licensed electrician!
Doesn't mean he doesn't know what he's talking about. With enough experience you can learn just about anything
@@SteveFrench_420 yeah great idea making DIY videos about tinkering with the open panels of circuit breakers for DIYers. What's next, DIY surgery?
@@MadmanGoneMad2012appeal to authority arguments are a fallacy used by slaves
@@SlumberMachine authorities bad.
He never claimed to be a licensed electrician. Now, can you point out for our benefit and his, what things he did wrong?
Just a note of interest. In europe, terminals are filled not a single wire, voltage is 240 no 120. I have found that a single wire can be cut if over torqued and the wire can be found to move to the side of the screw so the threads cut into the wire and not the end of the screw. I bend the solid wire over you find it fills the terminal and makes a better secure connection.
Nice video, very informative!
I'd really like to see you put in some disclaimers about where you're putting your fingers. Is this panel de-energized? A novice might feel OK about touching those big, silver lugs. After all, they look so innocuous right up until you land a grounded finger on one. Same for the output of the breakers.
Please stop twisting grounds together in panels , jesus guys r killing me out there with crap 😂
What is the solve problems of out of synchronization circuit breaker
Thank you.
Others have made comments on safety issues.
A good summary.
For safety, stand off to the side of the panel. If a rare breaker explosion occurs, that will lower your chances of getting plastic and metal in your face.
Thanks again.
Couldn't agree more - face shield if available. I'll add the same holds true for jump starting vehicles. Rare, but if there's an invisible 'cloud' of hydrogen gas around a battery, the arc from attaching the jumper clamp can cause a hazardous flash to an explosion that spew battery acid in every direction. I saw it happen once and still remember vividly. It's not pretty. Stay safe - live longer.
Few things to note: I'm sure you already know this, but viewers may not. If you are working in an older home, all NMB was naturally colored (White) till the mid-1990s when NMB 12 (Yellow) and 10 (Orange) were introduced. Also - 04:08 Romex is a trade name for Southwire. Cero, Encore, and Republic Wire all make NMB in the united states. (Calling NMB [Non-Metalic Building Wire] Romex is like calling all jeans Levis) Very well thought-out video. I will share this video with others. for sure! You also have a new subscriber! 🦅
Partially true. The color coding didn't start til the 90s, but NM cable came in all kinds of colors. It was a manufacturer choice. Come across white, black, gray, tan, blue, and green sheathed NM cable in older homes.
Noticed now that they have a purplish color denoting 14/3.
A good tip for some, whileyou have the breaker off, write the breaker number in the back of the switch and outlet plates. That way if you or someone needs to do work in the future, it will be easier to get the right breaker off.
Thank you for the video, you are so right about that voltage. I was hooking up a Electric dryer. I didn't know what I was doing. I don't remember what I did wrong. I unhooked it from the dryer I was replacing the power cord for the electric dryer. I forgot to unhook it from the outlet. The electricity hit me like I have never felt anything in my lifetime, I have got shocked before down through the years,but this was a different feeling. It was like you wouldn't believe.To this day I wonder how I threw the power cord out my hand. I guess it just wasn't time for me to go.
Magnífico aporte. Soló agregar:
1) El Calibre del Conductor Eléctrico, depende de la Potencia de consumo del Ckto Ramal o de la carga, y debe ser Dimensionado de acuerdo a los factores necesarios aplicables: Factor de Seguridad, Factor de Temperatura, Caida de Tensión, Factor de agrupamiento, etc. (NEC/NFPA 70_Art. 210 y Art. 230)
2) El Conductor de Puesta a Tierra, debe estar unido al Neutro. Es decir, que entre la barra de Tierra y la de Neutro, debe existir un puente, siempre que este Tablero o Panel eléctrico sea el Principal, lo que se conoce como "Unión Equipotencial" (NEC/NFPA 70_Art. 250)
Gracias por el aporte eléctrico, ha mencionado muchas cosas sumamente importante que muchos electricistas y usuarios, dejan de lado.
Saludos, desde El Salvaodr
Mauricio Archila
I moved into my house in 2003. It came with a 100 ampere 20 circuit circuit breaker box.
I was adding central air & needed to get a bigger box. I hired a coworker who happens to have an E-1. Him & I talked about my options. He suggested after measuring load on each hot leg that all I needed was a bigger panel. We increased it to a 32 breaker panel. In 2004 I added 2 spaces for the condenser outside & 2 for the air handler. In 2006 I added an addition & added a lightening circuit & one plug circuit. 2-2 spaces for a baseboard electric. Then we added a home run outlet for the garage for 20 amperes with 12/3 conductors. Last was a mini split for my interlock in 2018 for my back feeding generator. Now my panel is full again. We did a load check with the A/C on & our usual appliances in the summer time including the washing machine & dryer running. All our lights on. We were only drawing 7 amps on each phase. Same for winter with both electric baseboards & oil heat.
Great video & content!
I have over 40 years experience as an electrician 20 in the Navy and 20 doing residential/commercial new construction and repairing older electrical. I treat all wires as if they are hot regardless of knowing it’s turned off. The worst is finding some DIYer has run all the power for a room to the light and hot legged the light switches. You think the switch is off securing the power to a fan/light and zap. A no contact tester helps but should not be the only way to insure its off.
I bought a mountian home built in 1947. There are still “knob and tube” insulators here and there. Aluminum wire used on outlets/lighting and found two circuits tossed into the attic with BX cloth covered wires with outlets, switches, and fixtures still installed and the circuits still hot. The electric company installed new power poles and upgraded my overhead feed to 250 amps feeding a meter base with #8 wire to a double 50 amp breaker that feed my entire house. I could pull my meter and upgrade my panel but the smart meter would tell on me. They and the county want permits and inspections done and only “state licensed” electricians to do the work. Since what I’ve found does not meet code requirements I have to pay an overpriced company to do work I’m qualified to do. 🤷🏼♂️
When in doubt don’t screw with electricity it can injure or kill you or others and an electrical fire caused by DIYer usually isn’t covered by insurance.
The way he speaks…is between layman/idiot and very knowledgeable.
It never feels over your head, AND he CALLS out areas for complete ignorance or rookie mistakes! 😃
New Subscriber. 🥳
Thanks!
My house used to be 100-plus years old, knob-and-tube wiring still used for a lot of circuits. I say "used to", because an electrical fire made it not a house anymore. Squirrels are not my friends right now.
The previous owner was a "fixit" guy that didn't really know what he was doing, and he brought in some of his friends to do some fixin' and have some beers and snort some white powdery substance in the basement, and most of it was good.
Now it's being rebuilt and stepped up to current code compliance. It's going to be a while, but redoing from the bottom up helps make me feel safe again, and my hyper-awareness of electrical and general infrastructure has me both planning for the future in my own house, nut also checking everything in the temporary rental.
Found some electrical issues. Open grounds, not/neutral reversed, and no hot at all. I think we're up to ten outlets, one showing 30 VAC, and that scares my poop out. AC compressor is irredeemable, furnace may last through the winter, if we're lucky. Bought a CO detector just in case. Upstairs bathtub/shower leaks into the basement, from the underside, the blackening shows it's been going on for a while,
HVAC filter was last changed in 2015.
I want my place to be safe from the ground up. No shenanigans, no surreptitious bottles of Modelo being uncovered when we had to move stuff. Solid infrastructure first, make it pretty later.
Great Video! I’ve Been looking everywhere for a better explanation on the Square D double tap breaker. Thank you.
Fantastic video. I don't have time to read all the comments but the ones that are saying, mistake number 11 is pointing at the box and such. Not quite sure if anybody noticed but he obviously took things apart wired them up the wrong way so that we can see the wrong way then put them back the correct way. He talks about code in several different scenarios. And he's running a sub box I'm pretty sure this guy knows what he's talking about. The video is very well composed very straightforward, well rehearsed, and like I said he took the time to write on the electrical panel labels the wrong information, rewrite them in some other language or gibberish, then put good labels on there. He wired up scenarios where two wires are in one circuit, he wired up the grounds to look incorrect without a wire nut or with a pigtail, and then corrected all of these to make them look the way that they're supposed to be to code. Great job great video and at the very least even if you don't want to touch your electrical box you can at least inspect it with your eyes and see if there's something wrong and call electrician.
Very interesting; I learned a couple things: double-tapping breakers, and blank fillers (I have been using unused breakers). One thing, for me at least; I wouldn't wear jewelry such as rings, when working inside a live electrical panel.
Putting an unused breaker in, and of course having it off, has always seemed way safer to me, than a blank filler plug.
we do it all the time. just label the breaker and panel as that space being 'dead'/unused/spare
Using unused breakers is legal most concerns pertain to open access to energized busses in a pinch is totally permitted to install a breaker w no conductor attached. Just remember to label that slot as a spare !
@@michaellike5037 funny you should mention this. Just today, having an extra small hot water heater installed, the guy's going to use exactly that breaker!
You can have multiple grounds in the in a single ground terminal because they're not considered load carrying conductors, neutrals are load carrying conductors must be separated.
Your panel on this instance is considered a main lug, new codes prevent you from using the same terminal bar for neutrals and grounds and grounds must be handled by your main grounding means which is usually near your main disconnect off of your service.
The thing that causes problems with putting 2 wires under the same terminal is if the wires are different sizes because the terminal will tighten on the bigger wire and the smaller one will eventually work loose and have a bad connection. If they are the same size then its fine although still not best practices but if you are really short for available slots then you should add a new bar
I had experience with undertorqued panel. Once I went to the basement and noticed sparks in the panel. It was a pretty good timing - when I opened the panel I saw a wire started burning its insulation. And, of course, there was a lose screw on the breaker. That was pretty scary. I still thank God, I think it was a miracle I noticed it at the right time.
After just one minute and fifteen seconds, was something I didn't know. Thank you!
Illegible handwriting is a pet peeve of mine. Labels! Wonderful idea! 80% Good to know. Protectors are good. Those bare holes are sharp. Personally, I don't like 14g wire, but use 12g minimum. Badly grounded boxes are wasteful and dangerous, I agree. This can destroy electronic equipment and cause fires. Agreed, people should read, understand, and follow all the codes, including colors of insulation and sheathing. Wow! I had never heard of a torque screwdriver before, and a great idea to use one. $42 on Amazon today. Thanks for the video, very well done.
older houses, mine built in 1973, all the Romex for 20 and 15 amp is white and is both 12 and 14 gauge, so the color is not an indicator of wire gauge for older panels. I even have some black covered romex.