Use RTV black on water pumps and timing cover gaskets. Goodson has engine tools. OTC has engine tools. A 4-3" PVC adaptor make work for a seal installer. Use stud bolts with the heads cut off as lineup tools to install gaskets. Use the old water pump to put the bolts in to put them in the same place. Use a torque wrench. Use Permatex 14A sealer on bolts that go thru water passages. Replace the water pump with the timing chain. Run a tap thru bolt holes and run a die on bolts to straighten threads. Get a oil pump primer shaft to line up the distributor and oil pump shaft. Or an old distributor with the gear removed can be used. G.M cars oil pumps, adjust the oil pump screen for correct level using a set screw.
I found that the fuel pump eccentric was a perfect fit to tap the crank seal into place in the timing cover - my engine is a 289 and the seal installed from the inside. Great video. Many thanks :@)
I took the OE water pump off my 92 F150 today, timing cover looks ok, so it's staying put. New water pump is fixin to get installed after supper, using the old bolts, since I couldn't find new ones at Advance. I always use Permatex on paper gaskets, except when rebuilding carburetors.
you're suppose to use a flat surface that covers the seal completely to knock it in at the highest point on the lip. you deformed the seal is why the spring popped out. you might want to update the video so someone doesn't do that with the engine in the car.
Just wondering if you had to clearance your one piece eccentric to clear the new timing cover. I am currently building a 95 roller motor for use in a 70 Torino with mechanical fuel pump and single eccentric. using the same style timing cover from Ford performance.
I will be using the cork corner piece gaskets on front of oil pan and bottom of timing cover. Should I place and seal the cork gaskets to the timing cover then install it or place and seal them on front of oil pan then install the cover? Next when should I install the 4 front oil pan bolts that connect to timing cover? After I install the cover water pump and balancer or sometime before?
She shaft on my new ford racing water pump was longer than origional for my 87 5.0. Did you encounter and miss alignment on your pulleys after install?
2:30 do you see that gap separation below the sticker? I had to seal that with silicone because the OEM gasket can block that. The aftermarket one didn’t and coolant leaked badly.
What is the reason for not using silicone on the timing cover gasket? I always use clear silicone on paper/rubber gaskets especially around the coolant passages. Nothing is worse than getting everything together and finding out you got a coolant leak and have to take everything apart again.
Hey. Actually you're correct. I would advise To utilize some rtv on both sides since making these vids a while back. Ran into a leak issue with a previous build. Run the silicone. ;)
I have ran into that also. I have ran RTV, when I did a water pump on my 292 I used red RTV on the bypass tube and I found out today that theres a leak there so now I am purchasing a new bypass tube and gasket as well as going to use the clear silicone as we use that at work and it always seals.
This was going to be my comment. A few of those bolts are "wet" and WILL corrode to the front cover over time. If that big long bolt corrodes it will break off inside the front cover during disassembly. That turns a simple water pump replacement into a major PITA that include a replacement front cover, since you WILL destroy the front cover getting it off. A little thread sealant or the Permatex will save all that grief.
I have a 96 f150 with a 302 and I was replacing the water pump yesterday and I broke a bolt off in the block and the only way I can get it out if to remove the timing chain cover. If I do this will I be able to re-time the chain on my own?
Hey, like the video, a lot of good tips and good shots of what your doing, but Isn't the front crank seal supposed to go in from the back of the timing cover? looks like you installed it on the wrong side of the cover, might work ok,but I wouldn't trust it on mine like that.
This video is detail on install but wrong. 1 you put timing cover on a painted surface(face palm) 2 you used the shitty paper gasket, always use blue fel pro gaskets. 3 you didn’t put gasket sealer(Permatex) around the bolts that go into coolant passages.......I’m assuming that you had leaks and already had to redo this
Use RTV black on water pumps and timing cover gaskets. Goodson has engine tools. OTC has engine tools. A 4-3" PVC adaptor make work for a seal installer. Use stud bolts with the heads cut off as lineup tools to install gaskets. Use the old water pump to put the bolts in to put them in the same place. Use a torque wrench. Use Permatex 14A sealer on bolts that go thru water passages. Replace the water pump with the timing chain. Run a tap thru bolt holes and run a die on bolts to straighten threads. Get a oil pump primer shaft to line up the distributor and oil pump shaft. Or an old distributor with the gear removed can be used. G.M cars oil pumps, adjust the oil pump screen for correct level using a set screw.
Need to use rtv gasket sealing to hold gasket in place and seal imperfection too and make job installation easier too !
I found that the fuel pump eccentric was a perfect fit to tap the crank seal into place in the timing cover - my engine is a 289 and the seal installed from the inside. Great video. Many thanks :@)
I took the OE water pump off my 92 F150 today, timing cover looks ok, so it's staying put. New water pump is fixin to get installed after supper, using the old bolts, since I couldn't find new ones at Advance. I always use Permatex on paper gaskets, except when rebuilding carburetors.
Permatex #2 rules.
you're suppose to use a flat surface that covers the seal completely to knock it in at the highest point on the lip. you deformed the seal is why the spring popped out. you might want to update the video so someone doesn't do that with the engine in the car.
scrape the paint off the block, otherwise you're just using it as the seal!
Just wondering if you had to clearance your one piece eccentric to clear the new timing cover. I am currently building a 95 roller motor for use in a 70 Torino with mechanical fuel pump and single eccentric. using the same style timing cover from Ford performance.
I will be using the cork corner piece gaskets on front of oil pan and bottom of timing cover. Should I place and seal the cork gaskets to the timing cover then install it or place and seal them on front of oil pan then install the cover?
Next when should I install the 4 front oil pan bolts that connect to timing cover? After I install the cover water pump and balancer or sometime before?
She shaft on my new ford racing water pump was longer than origional for my 87 5.0. Did you encounter and miss alignment on your pulleys after install?
2:30 do you see that gap separation below the sticker? I had to seal that with silicone because the OEM gasket can block that. The aftermarket one didn’t and coolant leaked badly.
are you sure it’s not a weep hole ?
@@bobtailsthecat it wasn’t. The weep hole is on top. For some reason there’s another below but it doesn’t weep.
Lots of useful information BUT why the hell are you bolting your cover to a painted surface and where is your sealant..
What is the reason for not using silicone on the timing cover gasket?
I always use clear silicone on paper/rubber gaskets especially around the coolant passages. Nothing is worse than getting everything together and finding out you got a coolant leak and have to take everything apart again.
Hey. Actually you're correct. I would advise
To utilize some rtv on both sides since making these vids a while back. Ran into a leak issue with a previous build. Run the silicone. ;)
I have ran into that also. I have ran RTV, when I did a water pump on my 292 I used red RTV on the bypass tube and I found out today that theres a leak there so now I am purchasing a new bypass tube and gasket as well as going to use the clear silicone as we use that at work and it always seals.
Milner62 was thinking the same permatex copper :)
Gasket sealer does a great job and is easier to disassemble.
do you need the crankshaft oil slinger and is it inportant ?
Did this build work, I have the same build but the original timing cover has a crankshaft sensor, could I just use the timing cover u have?
no sealer used, not even around water-passages?
Bolts that go thru water passages, use Permatex 14A.
This was going to be my comment. A few of those bolts are "wet" and WILL corrode to the front cover over time. If that big long bolt corrodes it will break off inside the front cover during disassembly. That turns a simple water pump replacement into a major PITA that include a replacement front cover, since you WILL destroy the front cover getting it off. A little thread sealant or the Permatex will save all that grief.
I have a 96 f150 with a 302 and I was replacing the water pump yesterday and I broke a bolt off in the block and the only way I can get it out if to remove the timing chain cover. If I do this will I be able to re-time the chain on my own?
+Andrew Hall Get thee over to www dot corral dot net slash forums...
Taking the timing cover off doesn't disturb the timing set. Go for it.
Do you not use sealer?
So not enough bolts came with the ARP set? I saw reviews on the sets and many others said the same thing. Did you resolve the problem, and if so, how?
TheGeekwad I ended up just going to my local speed shop and buying separate arp 5/16 x 18 x 2" bolts. Was a pain in the ass..
Sealant? Yes or no?
Hey, like the video, a lot of good tips and good shots of what your doing, but
Isn't the front crank seal supposed to go in from the back of the timing cover?
looks like you installed it on the wrong side of the cover, might work ok,but I wouldn't
trust it on mine like that.
No, they go in from the front on a 302
Are you surely you didn’t put that seal in backwards hoss
why wouldn't you put the 4 bolts on the timing cover first to make life easier
the gear camshaft is with counterweght vs excentric of fuell pump , fuell ijection no counterwight and no excentric GONGRATULATION ¡
the crank seal goes into the BACK of the timing cover.
Wrong
Surprised no correction has been added on the oil seal wrong placement, should be pressed in on the inside, not outside
Wrong
MADE IN MEXICO
Made in Mexico vs made in china in a american car
This video is detail on install but wrong. 1 you put timing cover on a painted surface(face palm) 2 you used the shitty paper gasket, always use blue fel pro gaskets.
3 you didn’t put gasket sealer(Permatex) around the bolts that go into coolant passages.......I’m assuming that you had leaks and already had to redo this
38,000 miles and no issues. No leaks. Runs like a champ
You was better off using the stock water pump bolts
Your making it too hard… I use a spray adhesive to attaches the gasket to the part with the chance for the gasket to slide.
There's NOTHING "budget" about ARP bolts...
Anson Lobretto ...ARP Bolt Kit, P/N: 454-1501.
That Gasket is crap... Always use Felpro gaskets. Noone likes when that gasket fails.
FederalMogul FTW!
Hecho en Mexico!
FOMOCO China
Sad but true