After watching several of your videos, I successfully pulled my engine, replaced seals, water pump, oil pan, torque converter, etc etc. Thank you for the very helpful advice!
Awesome video, laughed when you said "pointless stuff" and pointed at the smog pump. Classic. Love the videos man you've walked me through a lot of engine work on my 88' 302. Inspiration to us all.
Another great video Stevie. Long time lurker, I have a 95 with a 351 and it is nice to see someone else actually take care of and save these old trucks instead of sending them to the shredder.
Thanks, man! I appreciate you making this video. I've gone crazy trying to find my mystery leak, but I'm nearly certain it's this issue. The truck has some really old parts, so I'd imagine it has some old gaskets.
*Intentionally Blank* No problem man!🤙 Glad I can help! These trucks are often “new” to us but are very high mileage vehicles. As high mileage vehicles, so many of the parts are worn out.
Best video on the internet. I My truck came to me with sketchy coolant hose routing. I really need a diagram on a napkin that shows where the smaller coolant hoses go, especially the ones that go to the throttle body.
Smilin Stevie from the Minute Masters!!!!!!!! What's up buddy? This series of videos is a keeper. Anyone that's got a similar vintage F-150 needs to add this to the library, or lie-berry as my neighbor says (cringe). Ok, first. I have REALLY fallen in love with that factory Ford paint color. Wasn't so sure before, but now, dig it! Man, I don't know how you decide on how and what to limit your interventions. It is fun cleaning that stuff and reassembling, but me, I'd have been thinking, hmmm should I change out the timing gear and chain, hmmm let me look at that oil pump and while I'm in here, let me freshen up those bearings. That harmonic balancer/dampner would have been high on my list, but I struggle with how far to go and where to stop. It's been an amazing ride so far brother. You know I love seeing the ever present Milwaukee stuff that I'm so addicted to as well, but a little bit of a tease there to see a red/silver angler grinder and no brand or logo showing! The plastic sleeve to keep the seal in the right direction was perfect and like you, those bolts gotta be clean, and I even hit them with the wire wheel before re-inserting them cause you're dead right about them influencing torque, tension and ease of insertion. Nothing like just doing it right and my man, you did it more than right. Thanks my friend for another episode of SfMMs. I'm "addicted" to each new episode and clear the desk when I hear that notification bell. You're awesome.
Nothing much Patrick! Just working hard and improving my truck whenever I can! That's the idea! My hope is that someone eager to restore their truck clicks the first video in the playlist and has all the resources they need to bring their truck to life. "Lie-berry" Hahaha! Thanks! The paint color really is gorgeous! I'll tell ya something and maybe this will be in a future video, but when I was a kid. My dream vehicle was a purple truck. lol Low and behold, I've done what most adults never do and that's fulfill one of their childhood dreams. So I say never stop reaching!🤙 So, that is the difficult part when working on this truck. Mostly, I order certain parts and that's all I have or its a budget thing. I didn't touch the timing chain and such because I know I can always come back and do that once the engine is installed. Besides, I'm also a "if it ain't broke don't fix it....yet" person. Maybe once this engine reaches some crazy mileage number or fails catastrophically, I'll be able to do a full rebuild. Yup! I walked into a specialty tool store today and there was one entire isle dedicated to Milwaukee power tools. I just about died and went to heaven. lol And yes, that red/silver grinder is a Milwaukee brand. 😁🤙 You got it! Every little detail and step counts and that is exactly what I wanted people to know when doing this job. You are most welcome Patrick! As always, I appreciate your comments! Thank you!🤙
good video dude, dont forget to mark your crank pully position before removing it, and also there is a different felpro gasket for the other side of the water pump plate rockauto shows both
I'm so grateful for your video bro, I subscribed and will definitely be using your videos as reference and to learn! Thank you for taking the time to explain everything in detail, with awesome side notes, and demonstrating what's needed!
For many years I too used gasoline or kerosene to clean parts until a friend turned me on to "Simple Green". It's absolutely fantastic ! It cuts grease better than Dawn cleans dishes. I couldn't believe that something that's biodegradable would actually work but it's the best. Try it ... you'll have your mind blown.
I literally just finished this job on my Windsor today. While in the truck. And come to find out it the damn freeze plug behind the oil stick. Just keeps getting better and better
Thanks for the Video, I've got a 351 that needs a timing cover gasket. Now I know what I'm up against. Btw, I used the advice in your exhaust video and I had zero issues getting my long tube headers installed on my 460 engine.
Nice video , exactly what I needed I will share a tip on cleaning steel bolts and nuts when you do this kind of thing. Get some muriatic acid, the stuff they mix with water to clean new masonry walls. Leave it full strength , pour enough in a plastic container big enough to hold whatever steel you want to remove rust from, place bolts or nuts into the container and give it about 10 or 15 minutes and remove them and rinse with water, drop them into another container with some vinegar in it, this neutralizes any acid left rinse again and they will look like brand new nuts and bolts. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves and do this outside and be mindful not to breath in any of the fumes. I know it sounds dangerous, just using a little common sense though and it’s no problem. The safety stuff is important though. It will also pretty much clean anything else such and dirt and grit from them. This works on any rusty steel, don’t get it on any aluminum as it’s will turn it black, steel only. For vertical surfaces a brush works well to apply it, then keep it wet with additional acid until rust has disappeared, for anything pitted really bad , a small wire brush between applying acid to the surfaces will speed up the process. I did my whole frame which was rusted really bad when I got the pickup. It is the best way I’ve found to clean up nuts and bolts you must re use. Thanks again for the content, I’m off to replace my water pump now.
Great presentation and very informative vid. Impact gun did not break loose the 4 serpentine pulley bolts attached to the harmonic balancer. Question, are these bolts standard right-handed thread or left-handed thread on 94 F-150 5.0
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it. Those bolts should be standard right hand thread. I would try penetrating oil. I normally recommend some heat from a torch but the rubber in the harmonic balancer would melt.
Im thinking ill be doing this to my trucks 302 at some point. Its got a coolant leak coming from the timing chain cover and its not the biggest deal in the world but I want to keep this truck MX happy. I changed the water pump a couple years ago so it seems like just a couple more steps to get the cover off.
once again saves the day i think .. so i must have foolishly tossed the old water pump and hardware ( 5 years ago assuming i could get new ) or it broke off... Its been so long to get to this point on this van project .. are those studs necessary? no way i can find the smooth one. i dont remember what the threaded ones are even for. or is the power steering one just so you can swing it instead of taking the whole thing off... I was so good at saving original hardware in ziplocs and labeling in the beginning
I’m not sure how necessary those studs are but if I’m thinking of their function correctly, I think they act as supports for either the ac compressor or power steering pump.
Such a great video, I just bought a 92 f150 with 145k miles earlier this year. Been slowly replacing duct tape patch work with new or used parts from the local pick-n-pull; it sat for a few years. Just did the radiator, all the lines and a freeze plug and that solved it for a little while. Now some seeping has become noticeable where the water pump meets the timing cover on the drivers side. Should I be worried about oil and coolant mixing? Or should I limp it awhile longer until the seeping becomes a complete leak?
Great video. Do you know if the oil pan will come off with engine installed if the timing cover comes off? Looking to do some reseal work to oil pan and valve covers and change motor mounts.
Thanks Abraham!🤙 you can take the wheel pan off while the engine is “installed”. The reason I put that in quotations is because you will need to unbolt the engine and hoist it a few inches so that you have enough clearance to pull the oil pan out.
Nice vid! When doing this job w the engine in the truck, do you have to drain the oil? And do you think I can use the spray on copper adhesive to the timing cover and water pump gaskets?
Sorry if I missed it but I didn't hear you mention whether you put sealer on the gaskets or you installed them dry or you only put RTV around the water jackets or of you put thread sealer or "plumbers tape" to seal the threads that go into water jackets... ??? People do them different... For my vehicle(79' Dodge, LA360) the Chilton manual doesn't say anything about adding sealer but the Haynes manual says to put RTV on both sides of the timing cover gasket. I've heard to put RTV around the water ports only...
I can’t remember off the top of my head but I believe I used RTV everywhere just to be on the safe side. There are a few areas on the water pump separator that have a groove. The paper gaskets don’t fill that groove. So you definitely want RTV there. I also put RTV around the bolt holes. I don’t recall putting any on the bolts themselves.
hi I'm about to embark on changing my own water pump on a 93 ford f250, is changing the timing cover gasket necessary as a result of changing the water pump or is it just recommended? Do you have a shot that shows what the main seal looks like once you knock it in??
I am actually curious as to why you didn't degrease your engine once it was out of your truck? Much easier to do that and also to work on it. I guess that I am just a fanatic about cleaning things. Very good video, thanks for your knowledge and tips.
J. R. Thompson Actually, I really wanted too. There were a lot of things I wanted to do while the engine was out. I just started running out of time and the engine had to go back in. Whenever I get to do a full restoration of the truck, I’ll definitely make sure the engine gets cleaned throughly. Thanks JR!🤙
Great video, looks like you lucked out and had your main seal from out to in.. mine is from in to out, so i gotta pull the cover to get that seal out. I even have the same color truck, 'bright sapphire metallic' if i recall correctly!
@@TheMinuteMastersYup, mine definitely has that JA code sticker on the doorjamb. It seems to be the only color used for the "Cobra conversion" Basically got some wood trim inside and fiberglass side skirts.
tiderfish Really? Now I’m curious. My parents had a fully customer e250 van, not a conversion van, but definitely a fully custom van that had some wood trim and such.
I have a question and this might sound kinda dumb but i plan on removing my motor out of my 93 f150 4x4 with a 302 the engine runs perfectly but i have alot of oil leaks i plan on replacing all the gaskets and i was wondering if i have to get the heads resurfaced when i remove them they are not blown i just want to keep my mind at ease that everything is new
You can get the heads resurfaced is you want. I don’t think it’s a requirement when you remove heads. I think it’s done when rebuilding heads of there was an over heating issue or the heads themselves done zero out.
Don't know if you'll see this but worth a shot. First of all, great videos. I've watched several in order to do some work on my 93 with the 302. Im currently attempting to get water pump and timing chain cover off to put new gaskets on and have 1 stinking bolt that I can't get loose and its the one that supports the power steering pump. Unfortunately I'm unable to pull the engine but so be it. Any suggestions/tips/hints on how to break that last bolt free? Thanks
Hi Grant! I read just about every comment and I reply to those comments I read. So always feel free to hit me up. Anyhow, what methods have you tried to break the bolt? Are you using a breaker bar or an impact gun?
@@TheMinuteMasters all the other ones came off with some penetrating oil and basic ratchet so rhat was first, I’ve tried a breaker bar (may need to try a cheater bar for some more leverage) and a battery powered impact wrench. I’ve tried using a hammer and gently tapping around that to possibly break something up. Only thing I can think off that I haven’t tried yet is heat.. wasn’t super comfortable using a torch around area where oil/coolant have slowly been leaking for a a while 😂
Nice video , the studs on my water pump just broke ..... so i find myself have to remove and possible replace the cover , do i need to remove the oil pan also? Or can i just do the timing cover?
Thanks Gustavo! 🤙 You can leave the oil pan on. You will just need those small sections of the oil pan gasket where the timing cover meets the oil pan.
Nice video. Im curious can you do the timing cover gasket with the motor in? Is there anything crucial to know while in there if Im just replacing the gasket on the timing cover and adding some RTV?
Thanks man!🤙 You sure can. I think the big different is the oil pan will still be in place. Make sure gasket mating surfaces are super clean and use RTV in areas that the gasket won’t seal.
@@TheMinuteMasters One model is Cloyes C3057K, the other is Cloyes 3206. The way the teeth on the sprocket look are what I'm curious about or maybe that doesn't matter? IDK.
Whose Money If I’m thinking of this correctly, the corner pieces are for between the lower part of the timing cover and the oil pan. If you are replacing the oil pan gasket too, you won’t need them.
Great video thanks helps my 1996 ford e350 club wagon xlt 5.8l hd tow package. I'm also going to do what another video recommends coating gaskets with rtv black sealer, not tightening the bolts till the balancer is partially installed so that the seal on the balancer is centered. I'm coating bolts with teflon paste.
@@TheMinuteMasters ThankX I enjoyed your great smile and confidence and wisdom and finds solutions keeping in real-ity attitude wow wish you were my neighbrother! Yes I liked how peeps had vans in the 70’s seems to have influenced me. Mine I’m slowly turning into a road party lounge light camping fun vehicle. Reorienting the 4 oem 15 passenger bench seats into got rid of the 4th bench and placing the 3 into a C shape welcome facing the barn doors. Only 118,000 miles on him. I added additional salvage yard roof cross members doubled now I can stand on the roof when needed and not dent it. Recently I added a u tube video where I added some cat converter theft resistance as so many of us are lost in our mind machine and throwing illegal substances at it and desperate for our fix. Very sad they don’t understand their obsessive thoughts can’t be trusted. Desteni.org I’m now reading about how my heavy duty oem oil cooler might start leaking oil into the coolant, so I’ll know if that happens some day. I haven’t removed the dampener yet, hoping the engine spins clockwise so I can use tapping on the starter and a breaker bar to loosen the center bolt easily. I’m adding magnets to the outside of the oil filter I’ve recently learned how our full flow filters can not filter down very small particles(look at how dirty our oil turns) and catching metallic grit can noticeably reduce engine wear over the years. Sometimes my mind starts creating a trapping thought of wishing I had the 460 but then I bring myself back to the physical and see and realize the 5.8 is the sweet spot for me and can do the towing I need and the gas mileage. Take care of yourself
@@JimTMcDaniels1 Thank you Jim! 🤙 I appreciate it. I’m glad you enjoy myself and the channel. Thank you for watching! Very cool! Sounds like you are kind of going for the “overland” camping type of van. If you haven’t seen these types of vans you should check them out because they are very cool! Yeah the substance abuse these days is at an all time high (no pun intended). I’m originally from the Philadelphia area and I still work in the city a lot. I would see droves of heroin attic’s. They would rob you of anything, just to get their fix. Very unfortunate. Yeah I would wait to see if you have that problem. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. I do like that magnet idea. Similar to the magnet in the bottom of the transmission fluid pan. I would definitely stick with your 351 engine. They’re common cheap to repair and it’s very easy to find parts. They also have that happy medium of power and fuel economy. Those 460 big blocks are great but they’re gas hogs.
@@TheMinuteMasters oh well the overland stuff I see they add 4 wheel drive and lift kits and heavy bumpers and tons of weight and Just Crazy overkill for my needs. I’m gonna add a high power amp and subwoofer and party lights. Not gonna try to 4 wheel ruin it. Yes if it ain’t broke don’t fix it lol But I have a list of notes of common problems to watch for if it happens. Say what can you suggest?: I’ve considered advancing the ignition timing distributor some for increased gas Mileage power as I live at 6000 feet and from what I’ve found the engine doesn’t advance the timing for altitude… In the old days they suggested about 3/4 a degree for every 1,000 feet elevation. Anywho
@@JimTMcDaniels1 This is true. Overland style would be overkill. I did recommend the larger amp though. That always comes in handy. I see. I’m with ya on that. Always good to be prepared. Look up the “6 Liter Tune Up” (I think it’s called that. Basically you replace some of your ignition components with new ones and then you gap the spark plugs more and advance the timing a few degrees. Supposedly it gives you a little more pep as well as better mpg.
Miguel Contreras So I decided against painting the engine because I didn’t thing it would hold up long term. As I understand it, if you don’t properly decrease each part, the paint will flake off in a couple months. I do plan on painting or powder coating the intake plenum and valve covers. I could definitely get them clean and it would look really good!
Clean gasket surface with a tiny sanding block instead,..it's a very narrow surface that needs to reman square to be able to give the gasket a chance to seal
I got a problem. White smoke and a coolant leak. Leaks pulsing out not from the oil filter but to the left of it. Not even sure what it is. Planning on moving from saint augustine fl to Colorado springs soon. Before this the truck was running like a damn dream and I was sure it would make it lol.
@@TheMinuteMasters changed motor oil not even a month ago. Had problems with the truck over heating as well. Thermostat went out and cracked the radiator so all that's brand new.
@@nauidiver227 Gotcha. I would start looking for drips now. Wipe everything clean and dry. Put cardboard or something under you engine, and wait. If you see a drip on the cardboard or whatever you use, trace it back. I did this for all the leaks I’ve had. You can also purchase a dye leak detector kit. They come in handy when there are multiple leaks. Over heating a truck can definitely cause quite a few issues. My dad bought a 81 F100 that overheated and one of the heads cracked. Definitely look for leaks. Also check your oil. If it looks like chocolate milk then your coolant is leaking into your oil.
White smoke could definitely mean a possible head gasket or cracked head. With it overheating enough to screw up the radiator i would buy a block leak tester. They're about $45 dollars but it has a chemical that changes color if exhaust gases are getting into the coolant
Part of the timing cover gasket does mate to the oil pan. I actually did the timing cover first and then the oil pan. So I actually had all my bases covered. If I remember correctly I think the timing cover gasket kit comes with a section of oil pan gasket. That’s what you use to repair the section that is exposed when you pull the timing cover. A little RTV fills in the small gaps.
TAKEOVER The harmonic balancer is separate from the timing. Now I do advise installing the harmonic balancer in the same exact orientation as it was before removal. This will ensure the balancing remains the same.
Ok I took off the pulley, now when I tried to remove the big bolt, the balancer moved counter clockwise a couple of times, is that bad or do I keep turning it counter clock wise until it reaches the position it was originally in??
I just got done doing this I'm having night mare abot putting this balancer back on, thinking about using my impact because i don't want to rotate that engine but if Ido I made sureIi purchase an TDC Indicator with the whistle sound. Nothing is leaking anywhere, everything is holding it measurement line one yt creator uses a wrench an put two bolt on his timing fly and uses is water pump to brace it to stop the engine from turning and throwing it off timing.
@@Pillowcase1977 That’s a good question. I think I’ve used a 22mm socket to turn it but you can also use the English equivalent. Any regular sockets that should have the size.
I wish you would have shown actually removing the timing cover. Plus if you don’t remove your oil pan, there are 4 bolts going through the pan to the timing cover… bolts screw in from the bottom.
True. I removed the pan first and detailed that in a separate video. My understanding is you would simple remove those oil pan to timing cover bolts and proceed as normally. Gasket kits either have a section of gasket that goes there or you can opt to replace the entire oil pan gasket like I did.
Hey! Big fan here :) just bought an 87' F150 with the same engine as you and I was wondering if a 400 ft-lbs torque wrench would be enough to get that harmonic balancer bolt off? Also do you remember which bolt size it was? Thanks a lot in advance :)
UnholyRacoon Thanks man!🤙 A 400 ft lb impact gun will definitely take the crank bolt out and you will need a standard torque wrench to reinstall it latter. I’m told you can get the bolt out with a breaker bar but the impact gun is the best. Good question! Definitely on the larger side. I think I use a 22-23 mm to just rotate the crank. Although metric doesn’t fit snug. So in standard it’s probably 7/8 or 1 inch. If you have a socket set that includes these sizes you should be good!🤙
The dealership told me that it would take about 12 hours to replace the front cover and to reseal it. Is that accurate? It's for a Ford F150 2014, v6 engine.
derak bell I thought about it but after looking the pump over, it looks great. Honestly, the internals are in great condition. If the pump looked bad or clogged, I would definitely have changed it.
I replaced my timing cover gasket on my mustang and now it doesn’t start. I took out the fuel pump fuse and relay and used Scotty kilmers method for removing a crankshaft bolt and double triple checked i put them back in. Could it possibly be timing? I never took off the timing chain but did rotate it backwards while trying to get the bolt loose. Could i have messed up timing?
HillBros Ok that’s a good start. You can buy timing guns at any auto parts store for around $30 bucks. It’s a very handy tool to own. I suggest buying one to check the timing. It’s pretty simple. You clips on the battery for power and then you put this clamp thing around the #1 spark plug wire coming off the distributor. Then you aim the gun down ward at crank wheel. The gun shoots a flashing light that illuminates the “tick” marks on the crank pulley. You may need to paint the tick grooves white or clean them. Then you see if the proper tick lines up with the pointer arrow bolted to the front of the timing cover. I think a 302 is set to 10 degrees TDC. There’s a sticker in the engine bay that indicates what the timing should be.
HillBros If it the timing is off you loosen (don’t remove it) a bolt at the base of the distributor. This allows you to rotate the distributor. Counter clockwise or clock wise rotations either advance or retard the the ignition timing.
Hey idk if you will see this but i lived with a crack head that was trying to start a flooring bussiness he had the 1995 ford e250 van checked out professionally an they said we needed to get a new transmission and water pump he took apart water pump an wont put it back together can you write me back an tell me where the bolts go i really need my car off hus property he said he is moving an will have it towed
I would have loved to tear the entire engine down and rebuild it. However, my budget only allowed for the gasket changes. Besides, I pulled the engine to weld a crack in the engine crossmember.
After watching several of your videos, I successfully pulled my engine, replaced seals, water pump, oil pan, torque converter, etc etc. Thank you for the very helpful advice!
Adrian Brady Hell yeah man!! 🤙 That’s awesome! Glad I could help you out! Thanks for watching!
Just curious how long do it take you from start to finish
Awesome video, laughed when you said "pointless stuff" and pointed at the smog pump. Classic. Love the videos man you've walked me through a lot of engine work on my 88' 302. Inspiration to us all.
Knox Auto Photography Thanks man! 🤙 Hahaha Yup! I’m glad I’m able to help ya out man. I appreciate it and thanks for watching!
Another great video Stevie. Long time lurker, I have a 95 with a 351 and it is nice to see someone else actually take care of and save these old trucks instead of sending them to the shredder.
351 Windsor Thanks man! 🤙 Yeah these trucks are definitely worth saving. Plus I just can bring myself to spend 40k on a new on.
I'm on the quart of oil a day plan at this point!! Great video.
Bob Lemay Hahaha! I’ve been there! Thanks man!🤙 Glad you enjoyed it!
Watched this video for the first time to do my water pump, rewatching a second for the timing cover on my 95 bronco 😅
Thanks, man! I appreciate you making this video. I've gone crazy trying to find my mystery leak, but I'm nearly certain it's this issue. The truck has some really old parts, so I'd imagine it has some old gaskets.
*Intentionally Blank* No problem man!🤙 Glad I can help! These trucks are often “new” to us but are very high mileage vehicles. As high mileage vehicles, so many of the parts are worn out.
Best video on the internet. I
My truck came to me with sketchy coolant hose routing. I really need a diagram on a napkin that shows where the smaller coolant hoses go, especially the ones that go to the throttle body.
Thanks man! 🤙
What engine do you have?
Smilin Stevie from the Minute Masters!!!!!!!! What's up buddy? This series of videos is a keeper. Anyone that's got a similar vintage F-150 needs to add this to the library, or lie-berry as my neighbor says (cringe). Ok, first. I have REALLY fallen in love with that factory Ford paint color. Wasn't so sure before, but now, dig it! Man, I don't know how you decide on how and what to limit your interventions. It is fun cleaning that stuff and reassembling, but me, I'd have been thinking, hmmm should I change out the timing gear and chain, hmmm let me look at that oil pump and while I'm in here, let me freshen up those bearings. That harmonic balancer/dampner would have been high on my list, but I struggle with how far to go and where to stop. It's been an amazing ride so far brother. You know I love seeing the ever present Milwaukee stuff that I'm so addicted to as well, but a little bit of a tease there to see a red/silver angler grinder and no brand or logo showing! The plastic sleeve to keep the seal in the right direction was perfect and like you, those bolts gotta be clean, and I even hit them with the wire wheel before re-inserting them cause you're dead right about them influencing torque, tension and ease of insertion. Nothing like just doing it right and my man, you did it more than right. Thanks my friend for another episode of SfMMs. I'm "addicted" to each new episode and clear the desk when I hear that notification bell. You're awesome.
Nothing much Patrick! Just working hard and improving my truck whenever I can! That's the idea! My hope is that someone eager to restore their truck clicks the first video in the playlist and has all the resources they need to bring their truck to life. "Lie-berry" Hahaha! Thanks! The paint color really is gorgeous! I'll tell ya something and maybe this will be in a future video, but when I was a kid. My dream vehicle was a purple truck. lol Low and behold, I've done what most adults never do and that's fulfill one of their childhood dreams. So I say never stop reaching!🤙
So, that is the difficult part when working on this truck. Mostly, I order certain parts and that's all I have or its a budget thing. I didn't touch the timing chain and such because I know I can always come back and do that once the engine is installed. Besides, I'm also a "if it ain't broke don't fix it....yet" person. Maybe once this engine reaches some crazy mileage number or fails catastrophically, I'll be able to do a full rebuild.
Yup! I walked into a specialty tool store today and there was one entire isle dedicated to Milwaukee power tools. I just about died and went to heaven. lol And yes, that red/silver grinder is a Milwaukee brand. 😁🤙
You got it! Every little detail and step counts and that is exactly what I wanted people to know when doing this job.
You are most welcome Patrick! As always, I appreciate your comments! Thank you!🤙
good video dude, dont forget to mark your crank pully position before removing it, and also there is a different felpro gasket for the other side of the water pump plate rockauto shows both
Thanks man!🤙
Good tip!
I'm so grateful for your video bro, I subscribed and will definitely be using your videos as reference and to learn! Thank you for taking the time to explain everything in detail, with awesome side notes, and demonstrating what's needed!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! It’s always nice to hear my videos help. Thanks for subscribing and watching!
For many years I too used gasoline or kerosene to clean parts until a friend turned me on to "Simple Green". It's absolutely fantastic ! It cuts grease better than Dawn cleans dishes. I couldn't believe that something that's biodegradable would actually work but it's the best. Try it ... you'll have your mind blown.
Thanks for the tip man! I’ll have to try that out!🤙
Hey Stevie! Thanks for the awesome video. I was able to relplace my water pump and timing cover gaskets using this. That coolant pumps so quick now!
No problem Alex!🤙 Hell yeah! Great job! You’ll be set for a while now.
Mate, thank you for this video. I've been putting off my timing cover gasket change but this video makes it look easy as. Cheers.
You’re welcome man!🤙
I literally just finished this job on my Windsor today. While in the truck. And come to find out it the damn freeze plug behind the oil stick. Just keeps getting better and better
Ah damn! That sucks! Was the engine running fine before the water pump needed to be replaced? I think you can install new freeze plugs.
@@TheMinuteMasters yea. It still runs nice
@@1889michaelcraig That’s good! I’d just tap those freeze plugs back in.
Great video great production, loving it, bro
Thanks man!🤙
Thanks for the Video, I've got a 351 that needs a timing cover gasket. Now I know what I'm up against. Btw, I used the advice in your exhaust video and I had zero issues getting my long tube headers installed on my 460 engine.
Skitter302 No problem Skitter! Glad I could help ya out. Headers are scary stuff when you first go at it. So it’s good it went smoothly for you.
Nice video , exactly what I needed I will share a tip on cleaning steel bolts and nuts when you do this kind of thing. Get some muriatic acid, the stuff they mix with water to clean new masonry walls. Leave it full strength , pour enough in a plastic container big enough to hold whatever steel you want to remove rust from, place bolts or nuts into the container and give it about 10 or 15 minutes and remove them and rinse with water, drop them into another container with some vinegar in it, this neutralizes any acid left rinse again and they will look like brand new nuts and bolts. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves and do this outside and be mindful not to breath in any of the fumes. I know it sounds dangerous, just using a little common sense though and it’s no problem. The safety stuff is important though. It will also pretty much clean anything else such and dirt and grit from them. This works on any rusty steel, don’t get it on any aluminum as it’s will turn it black, steel only. For vertical surfaces a brush works well to apply it, then keep it wet with additional acid until rust has disappeared, for anything pitted really bad , a small wire brush between applying acid to the surfaces will speed up the process. I did my whole frame which was rusted really bad when I got the pickup. It is the best way I’ve found to clean up nuts and bolts you must re use. Thanks again for the content, I’m off to replace my water pump now.
Great info! I’m definitely keeping this in mind next time I have a lot of rusty bolts! Thanks for taking the time to share this!🤙
This is incorrect vinegar is also acidic what you want to do is bathe it in baking soda and water after the acid to neutralize the acid.
Excellent video !!
particularly like the explanation of the Fel-Pro gasket kit
Might need to try the plastic bag trick also but I'm not there just yet
Thanks man!🤙
Great video ! Did you use rtv or any gasket maker in combination with the paper timing chain cover gasket ?
Thanks Luke!🤙 I can’t remember but I’m pretty sure I use a little bit of both depending on what I was trying to seal.
Great presentation and very informative vid. Impact gun did not break loose the 4 serpentine pulley bolts attached to the harmonic balancer. Question, are these bolts standard right-handed thread or left-handed thread on 94 F-150 5.0
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it.
Those bolts should be standard right hand thread. I would try penetrating oil. I normally recommend some heat from a torch but the rubber in the harmonic balancer would melt.
Im thinking ill be doing this to my trucks 302 at some point. Its got a coolant leak coming from the timing chain cover and its not the biggest deal in the world but I want to keep this truck MX happy. I changed the water pump a couple years ago so it seems like just a couple more steps to get the cover off.
Yup! It’s a good preventive maintenance item.
once again saves the day i think .. so i must have foolishly tossed the old water pump and hardware ( 5 years ago assuming i could get new ) or it broke off... Its been so long to get to this point on this van project .. are those studs necessary? no way i can find the smooth one. i dont remember what the threaded ones are even for. or is the power steering one just so you can swing it instead of taking the whole thing off... I was so good at saving original hardware in ziplocs and labeling in the beginning
I’m not sure how necessary those studs are but if I’m thinking of their function correctly, I think they act as supports for either the ac compressor or power steering pump.
Such a great video, I just bought a 92 f150 with 145k miles earlier this year. Been slowly replacing duct tape patch work with new or used parts from the local pick-n-pull; it sat for a few years. Just did the radiator, all the lines and a freeze plug and that solved it for a little while. Now some seeping has become noticeable where the water pump meets the timing cover on the drivers side. Should I be worried about oil and coolant mixing? Or should I limp it awhile longer until the seeping becomes a complete leak?
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it.
I don’t think you will have too much mixing. But if seepage is apparent, I’d go ahead and replace the water pump.
Does the oil pan need to be removed before removing the timing cover? Trying to get to a Broken stud from water pump .
I kept the oil pan on. I believe the gasket kit comes with two pieces for the oil pan.
Great video. Do you know if the oil pan will come off with engine installed if the timing cover comes off? Looking to do some reseal work to oil pan and valve covers and change motor mounts.
Thanks Abraham!🤙 you can take the wheel pan off while the engine is “installed”. The reason I put that in quotations is because you will need to unbolt the engine and hoist it a few inches so that you have enough clearance to pull the oil pan out.
Nice vid! When doing this job w the engine in the truck, do you have to drain the oil? And do you think I can use the spray on copper adhesive to the timing cover and water pump gaskets?
Thanks man!🤙 you can leave your oil in the engine. I haven’t used a copper spray adhesive, but I can’t imagine it would do any harm.
Probably don’t remember the crank seal part number or how can I find which one I need? So two water pump gaskets are needed as well?
You’ll need two water pump gaskets, a crank seal gasket, and while you are there, you can replace the thermostat and it’s gasket.
Sorry if I missed it but I didn't hear you mention whether you put sealer on the gaskets or you installed them dry or you only put RTV around the water jackets or of you put thread sealer or "plumbers tape" to seal the threads that go into water jackets... ???
People do them different...
For my vehicle(79' Dodge, LA360) the Chilton manual doesn't say anything about adding sealer but the Haynes manual says to put RTV on both sides of the timing cover gasket. I've heard to put RTV around the water ports only...
I can’t remember off the top of my head but I believe I used RTV everywhere just to be on the safe side. There are a few areas on the water pump separator that have a groove. The paper gaskets don’t fill that groove. So you definitely want RTV there. I also put RTV around the bolt holes. I don’t recall putting any on the bolts themselves.
Just a suggestion but the harmonic balancer should have been put on before you tightened down the timing cover to line up the harmonic balancer seal.
Gotcha. That makes sense. I’ll have to remember that next time I have both parts off.
What’s the bolt size for the harmonic balancer at 1:32? I think it’s bigger than 3/4
I think I used a 21 or 22 mm which is probably in the 7/8ths neighborhood.
hi I'm about to embark on changing my own water pump on a 93 ford f250, is changing the timing cover gasket necessary as a result of changing the water pump or is it just recommended? Do you have a shot that shows what the main seal looks like once you knock it in??
You can change the water pump without touching the timing cover gaskets. I have a separate video on the water pump replacement which may help you.
I am actually curious as to why you didn't degrease your engine once it was out of your truck? Much easier to do that and also to work on it. I guess that I am just a fanatic about cleaning things. Very good video, thanks for your knowledge and tips.
J. R. Thompson Actually, I really wanted too. There were a lot of things I wanted to do while the engine was out. I just started running out of time and the engine had to go back in. Whenever I get to do a full restoration of the truck, I’ll definitely make sure the engine gets cleaned throughly. Thanks JR!🤙
Great video, looks like you lucked out and had your main seal from out to in.. mine is from in to out, so i gotta pull the cover to get that seal out. I even have the same color truck, 'bright sapphire metallic' if i recall correctly!
Thanks man! 🤙 I sure did! Well at least you can replace the seals on the cover. You are exactly right! Color code JA.
@@TheMinuteMastersYup, mine definitely has that JA code sticker on the doorjamb. It seems to be the only color used for the "Cobra conversion" Basically got some wood trim inside and fiberglass side skirts.
tiderfish That’s cool I’ve never heard of the Cobra conversion. I’ll have to look that up.
@@TheMinuteMasters Yeah from what i can find it wan an aftermarket job done by a conversion van company.
tiderfish Really? Now I’m curious. My parents had a fully customer e250 van, not a conversion van, but definitely a fully custom van that had some wood trim and such.
I have a question and this might sound kinda dumb but i plan on removing my motor out of my 93 f150 4x4 with a 302 the engine runs perfectly but i have alot of oil leaks i plan on replacing all the gaskets and i was wondering if i have to get the heads resurfaced when i remove them they are not blown i just want to keep my mind at ease that everything is new
You can get the heads resurfaced is you want. I don’t think it’s a requirement when you remove heads. I think it’s done when rebuilding heads of there was an over heating issue or the heads themselves done zero out.
Don't know if you'll see this but worth a shot. First of all, great videos. I've watched several in order to do some work on my 93 with the 302. Im currently attempting to get water pump and timing chain cover off to put new gaskets on and have 1 stinking bolt that I can't get loose and its the one that supports the power steering pump. Unfortunately I'm unable to pull the engine but so be it. Any suggestions/tips/hints on how to break that last bolt free? Thanks
Hi Grant! I read just about every comment and I reply to those comments I read. So always feel free to hit me up.
Anyhow, what methods have you tried to break the bolt? Are you using a breaker bar or an impact gun?
@@TheMinuteMasters all the other ones came off with some penetrating oil and basic ratchet so rhat was first, I’ve tried a breaker bar (may need to try a cheater bar for some more leverage) and a battery powered impact wrench. I’ve tried using a hammer and gently tapping around that to possibly break something up.
Only thing I can think off that I haven’t tried yet is heat.. wasn’t super comfortable using a torch around area where oil/coolant have slowly been leaking for a a while 😂
@@grantsmith6945 I’d try an impact gun but I wouldn’t go crazy. To be honest, I’d try some heat. If a gun won’t do it, the heat definitely helps.
@@TheMinuteMasters Will do, Thanks! I’ll give it a shot!
Nice video , the studs on my water pump just broke ..... so i find myself have to remove and possible replace the cover , do i need to remove the oil pan also? Or can i just do the timing cover?
Thanks Gustavo! 🤙
You can leave the oil pan on. You will just need those small sections of the oil pan gasket where the timing cover meets the oil pan.
Thanks alot !
@@fx4guy no problem Gustavo!🤙
Nice video. Im curious can you do the timing cover gasket with the motor in? Is there anything crucial to know while in there if Im just replacing the gasket on the timing cover and adding some RTV?
Thanks man!🤙 You sure can. I think the big different is the oil pan will still be in place. Make sure gasket mating surfaces are super clean and use RTV in areas that the gasket won’t seal.
@@TheMinuteMasters awesome I'll give myself a good long weekend to go through it slowly.
@@TheMinuteMasters Also, how do you know which kind of timing chain to buy? I'm looking on Rock Auto and it has a few choices. Thanks.
@@lupegalvan9993 Good question! What are the differences listed on Rock Auto?
@@TheMinuteMasters One model is Cloyes C3057K, the other is Cloyes 3206. The way the teeth on the sprocket look are what I'm curious about or maybe that doesn't matter? IDK.
Would you happen to know what the 2x Cork corner pieces are for in this gasket set? Thx, 83 F150 here ✌️
Whose Money If I’m thinking of this correctly, the corner pieces are for between the lower part of the timing cover and the oil pan. If you are replacing the oil pan gasket too, you won’t need them.
Great Video💯 This Freddie From Woodland
Hollywood Mac Thanks Freddie! 🤙 Glad you liked it!
Great video thanks helps my 1996 ford e350 club wagon xlt 5.8l hd tow package. I'm also going to do what another video recommends coating gaskets with rtv black sealer, not tightening the bolts till the balancer is partially installed so that the seal on the balancer is centered. I'm coating bolts with teflon paste.
No problem man! 🤙 I’m glad you enjoy it! Those are all good ideas! Love those vans. I learned to drive with a 96 E150.
@@TheMinuteMasters ThankX I enjoyed your great smile and confidence and wisdom and finds solutions keeping in real-ity attitude wow wish you were my neighbrother!
Yes I liked how peeps had vans in the 70’s seems to have influenced me.
Mine I’m slowly turning into a road party lounge light camping fun vehicle.
Reorienting the 4 oem 15 passenger bench seats into got rid of the 4th bench and placing the 3 into a C shape welcome facing the barn doors. Only 118,000 miles on him.
I added additional salvage yard roof cross members doubled now I can stand on the roof when needed and not dent it.
Recently I added a u tube video where I added some cat converter theft resistance as so many of us are lost in our mind machine and throwing illegal substances at it and desperate for our fix. Very sad they don’t understand their obsessive thoughts can’t be trusted. Desteni.org
I’m now reading about how my heavy duty oem oil cooler might start leaking oil into the coolant, so I’ll know if that happens some day.
I haven’t removed the dampener yet, hoping the engine spins clockwise so I can use tapping on the starter and a breaker bar to loosen the center bolt easily.
I’m adding magnets to the outside of the oil filter I’ve recently learned how our full flow filters can not filter down very small particles(look at how dirty our oil turns) and catching metallic grit can noticeably reduce engine wear over the years.
Sometimes my mind starts creating a trapping thought of wishing I had the 460 but then I bring myself back to the physical and see and realize the 5.8 is the sweet spot for me and can do the towing I need and the gas mileage.
Take care of yourself
@@JimTMcDaniels1 Thank you Jim! 🤙 I appreciate it. I’m glad you enjoy myself and the channel. Thank you for watching!
Very cool! Sounds like you are kind of going for the “overland” camping type of van. If you haven’t seen these types of vans you should check them out because they are very cool!
Yeah the substance abuse these days is at an all time high (no pun intended). I’m originally from the Philadelphia area and I still work in the city a lot. I would see droves of heroin attic’s. They would rob you of anything, just to get their fix. Very unfortunate.
Yeah I would wait to see if you have that problem. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
I do like that magnet idea. Similar to the magnet in the bottom of the transmission fluid pan.
I would definitely stick with your 351 engine. They’re common cheap to repair and it’s very easy to find parts. They also have that happy medium of power and fuel economy. Those 460 big blocks are great but they’re gas hogs.
@@TheMinuteMasters oh well the overland stuff I see they add 4 wheel drive and lift kits and heavy bumpers and tons of weight and Just Crazy overkill for my needs.
I’m gonna add a high power amp and subwoofer and party lights.
Not gonna try to 4 wheel ruin it.
Yes if it ain’t broke don’t fix it lol
But I have a list of notes of common problems to watch for if it happens.
Say what can you suggest?:
I’ve considered advancing the ignition timing distributor some for increased gas Mileage power as I live at 6000 feet and from what I’ve found the engine doesn’t advance the timing for altitude… In the old days they suggested about 3/4 a degree for every 1,000 feet elevation.
Anywho
@@JimTMcDaniels1 This is true. Overland style would be overkill. I did recommend the larger amp though. That always comes in handy.
I see. I’m with ya on that. Always good to be prepared.
Look up the “6 Liter Tune Up” (I think it’s called that. Basically you replace some of your ignition components with new ones and then you gap the spark plugs more and advance the timing a few degrees. Supposedly it gives you a little more pep as well as better mpg.
Awesome video and helpful
Are you gonna paint the engine?
Miguel Contreras So I decided against painting the engine because I didn’t thing it would hold up long term. As I understand it, if you don’t properly decrease each part, the paint will flake off in a couple months. I do plan on painting or powder coating the intake plenum and valve covers. I could definitely get them clean and it would look really good!
Did you use RTV on the gasket between the timing cover and engine??
If I remember correctly, I used a little around the separator plate bolts.
Clean gasket surface with a tiny sanding block instead,..it's a very narrow surface that needs to reman square to be able to give the gasket a chance to seal
Good tip!🤙
Did you use gasket maker or just the gaskets by themselves?
I used both. The gasket maker comes in handy in a few locations where the gasket doesn’t have the best coverage.
I got a problem. White smoke and a coolant leak. Leaks pulsing out not from the oil filter but to the left of it. Not even sure what it is. Planning on moving from saint augustine fl to Colorado springs soon. Before this the truck was running like a damn dream and I was sure it would make it lol.
White smoke is oil burning. Is the oil filter new?
@@TheMinuteMasters oil filter is brand new
@@TheMinuteMasters changed motor oil not even a month ago. Had problems with the truck over heating as well. Thermostat went out and cracked the radiator so all that's brand new.
@@nauidiver227 Gotcha. I would start looking for drips now. Wipe everything clean and dry. Put cardboard or something under you engine, and wait. If you see a drip on the cardboard or whatever you use, trace it back. I did this for all the leaks I’ve had. You can also purchase a dye leak detector kit. They come in handy when there are multiple leaks.
Over heating a truck can definitely cause quite a few issues. My dad bought a 81 F100 that overheated and one of the heads cracked.
Definitely look for leaks. Also check your oil. If it looks like chocolate milk then your coolant is leaking into your oil.
White smoke could definitely mean a possible head gasket or cracked head. With it overheating enough to screw up the radiator i would buy a block leak tester. They're about $45 dollars but it has a chemical that changes color if exhaust gases are getting into the coolant
very good details an explanation!!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it.
Ford timing chain cover gasket to block is a week point ,attention to detail is imperative here
What size are the bolts in armonícese balancer?
Unfortunately, I can’t remember off the top of my head.
Do you have to pull the oil pan to do this?
Part of the timing cover gasket does mate to the oil pan. I actually did the timing cover first and then the oil pan. So I actually had all my bases covered. If I remember correctly I think the timing cover gasket kit comes with a section of oil pan gasket. That’s what you use to repair the section that is exposed when you pull the timing cover. A little RTV fills in the small gaps.
How did you remove the harmonic balancer without damaging the threads ?
I bought a harmonic balancer puller and it removed it effortlessly.
The Minute Masters okay I’ll give it a try. Thank you so much!
Fbayless No problem man!🤙 Good luck and thanks for watching!
Will removing the harmonic balancer mess up the timing??
TAKEOVER The harmonic balancer is separate from the timing. Now I do advise installing the harmonic balancer in the same exact orientation as it was before removal. This will ensure the balancing remains the same.
@@TheMinuteMasters ok appreciate it, ur awesome by the way
TAKEOVER No problem man!🤙 Thanks! I appreciate it!
Ok I took off the pulley, now when I tried to remove the big bolt, the balancer moved counter clockwise a couple of times, is that bad or do I keep turning it counter clock wise until it reaches the position it was originally in??
TAKEOVER You can move the harmonic balancer in any direction as long as you line it up in the original position.
I just got done doing this I'm having night mare abot putting this balancer back on, thinking about using my impact because i don't want to rotate that engine but if Ido I made sureIi purchase an TDC Indicator with the whistle sound. Nothing is leaking anywhere, everything is holding it measurement line one yt creator uses a wrench an put two bolt on his timing fly and uses is water pump to brace it to stop the engine from turning and throwing it off timing.
I think some balances can be tricky to get back on. Definitely try to keep the engine from rotating. I used my impact and that worked for me.
What size is that huge bolt for the harmonic balancer
Like what size socket?
@@TheMinuteMasters yes
@@Pillowcase1977 That’s a good question. I think I’ve used a 22mm socket to turn it but you can also use the English equivalent. Any regular sockets that should have the size.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks. Your videos are a great help! Im working on my 93 f150 at the moment
@@Pillowcase1977 You’re welcome man!🤙 Nice! I’m a big fan of the aero nose OBS trucks. Are you doing your water pump and timing cover?
I wish you would have shown actually removing the timing cover. Plus if you don’t remove your oil pan, there are 4 bolts going through the pan to the timing cover… bolts screw in from the bottom.
True. I removed the pan first and detailed that in a separate video. My understanding is you would simple remove those oil pan to timing cover bolts and proceed as normally. Gasket kits either have a section of gasket that goes there or you can opt to replace the entire oil pan gasket like I did.
Fixing to do a reseal job on my 95 f150 5.0 but im going to go ahead and buy a new water pump
Yeah I definitely would. I wish I would have replaced it when I replaced all the other seals. Oh well, it’s fine now!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters yes sir mines been leaking for awhile
Thanks for the video
No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
Hey! Big fan here :) just bought an 87' F150 with the same engine as you and I was wondering if a 400 ft-lbs torque wrench would be enough to get that harmonic balancer bolt off?
Also do you remember which bolt size it was?
Thanks a lot in advance :)
UnholyRacoon Thanks man!🤙 A 400 ft lb impact gun will definitely take the crank bolt out and you will need a standard torque wrench to reinstall it latter. I’m told you can get the bolt out with a breaker bar but the impact gun is the best.
Good question! Definitely on the larger side. I think I use a 22-23 mm to just rotate the crank. Although metric doesn’t fit snug. So in standard it’s probably 7/8 or 1 inch. If you have a socket set that includes these sizes you should be good!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks a lot! Keep up the good work :)
UnholyRacoon No problem man! 🤙 Good luck and thanks for watching!
The dealership told me that it would take about 12 hours to replace the front cover and to reseal it.
Is that accurate? It's for a Ford F150 2014, v6 engine.
It took me about 4-6 hours and my truck is a little less complicated. They could be a little high but that also depends on their procedures.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thank you.
You should have replaced the old worn single timing chain with a cloyes double roller and high volume oil pump while you were there.
Yeah I wish I had done that too.
Why take the other plat and gasket off tje water pump its built as one?
Just so I could have a fresh gasket.
My oil pan is stl on do i remove the 2 oil pan bolts on right and left
@@TheMinuteMasters
@@Moobley501 Yes, if you are replacing the timing cover gasket.
Are them cracks ok at the top
@@TheMinuteMastersthe top where the pump bolts to has cracks ? This ok?
Can you do this without pulling the engine?
Yes, you can definitely do this without pulling the engine.🤙
Yes, very easily
Suprised you didn't repalce the oil pump, the intermediate shaft, and the gasket from oil pump to the block, and clean the oil screen....?
derak bell I thought about it but after looking the pump over, it looks great. Honestly, the internals are in great condition. If the pump looked bad or clogged, I would definitely have changed it.
Felpro gaskets look cool but there to hard ,instead use the gaskets that come with the pump and use the Ford pump
You have a point there Roy. I’ve had mixed results with Fel Pro. New oil pan gasket is leaking like a sieve.
I replaced my timing cover gasket on my mustang and now it doesn’t start. I took out the fuel pump fuse and relay and used Scotty kilmers method for removing a crankshaft bolt and double triple checked i put them back in. Could it possibly be timing? I never took off the timing chain but did rotate it backwards while trying to get the bolt loose. Could i have messed up timing?
HillBros Does the engine crank over? If it cranks over but doesn’t start, your timing could be off. Do you own a timing gun?
The Minute Masters yes the engine cranks over. I do not own a timing gun
HillBros Ok that’s a good start. You can buy timing guns at any auto parts store for around $30 bucks. It’s a very handy tool to own. I suggest buying one to check the timing. It’s pretty simple. You clips on the battery for power and then you put this clamp thing around the #1 spark plug wire coming off the distributor. Then you aim the gun down ward at crank wheel. The gun shoots a flashing light that illuminates the “tick” marks on the crank pulley. You may need to paint the tick grooves white or clean them. Then you see if the proper tick lines up with the pointer arrow bolted to the front of the timing cover. I think a 302 is set to 10 degrees TDC. There’s a sticker in the engine bay that indicates what the timing should be.
And what happens if the timing is off?
HillBros If it the timing is off you loosen (don’t remove it) a bolt at the base of the distributor. This allows you to rotate the distributor. Counter clockwise or clock wise rotations either advance or retard the the ignition timing.
Hey idk if you will see this but i lived with a crack head that was trying to start a flooring bussiness he had the 1995 ford e250 van checked out professionally an they said we needed to get a new transmission and water pump he took apart water pump an wont put it back together can you write me back an tell me where the bolts go i really need my car off hus property he said he is moving an will have it towed
I replied to your other comment.🤙
Where are the broken bolts?😂
Hahaha
I definitely got lucky!
That’s the wrong gasket 35380 is the right one you need to
Really? Which gasket are you referring too?
Why in the world would u take that water pump off and hosing without replacing the timing chain and gears that’s just stupid
I would have loved to tear the entire engine down and rebuild it. However, my budget only allowed for the gasket changes. Besides, I pulled the engine to weld a crack in the engine crossmember.
.. big C Clamp & couple pieces of Wood works on that Seal, too .. 🧰👨🔧
Good to know! Thanks man!🤙
Watched this video for the first time to do my water pump, rewatching a second for the timing cover on my 95 bronco 😅
Love it! Thanks man!🤙