Finally back to watching you excellent videos! You know my OCD would require that I use feeler gauges to get that A/B rail centered. Keep up the great work!
Feel free! I will say one thing to that... You're only as good as your skills and your tools. I have no skills and my tools are par, at best. LOL Thanks Woody!!! I'm working on some non-printer build videos and I'm going to MRRF soon! Let me know what peaks your interest and who you'd like to see me take a pic with!
I have seen a suggestion that the gantry (A/B drives ) can be assembled outside the frame and then slide to the blind joint position. Then top of frame assembled. Reduces need for finagling.
Interesting, I'm not sure how well it would work as the top frame really doesn't secure the gantry much. Any removal or manipulations of the frame at this point of the build will require you to re-square and re-check all extrusions. Fortunately double checks are a good thing! If you are doing a non-pin mod version of this build I would just remove /loosen the screws in the drive units. This would give you enough "flex". In this video, I choose not to remove any screws more to see/prove that any disassembly was not needed, and if it was - to be minimal.
You are correct - However with these pin-mod units the only screws are the ones going to the steppers. They are quite far from the openings and I was fearful of losing a pin if I was to open the drive unit too much. BUT 100% if your not using a pin mod you can loosen it up a lot. If you are using a pin mod you can loosen it, just be careful!
Just sold off my Prusa, so I need a "smaller brother" for my 2.4R2 300. What do you recommend? 250mm Trident? A Salad Fork (160mm version)? I'm mainly looking for something with a small footprint, enclosed, that I can use to print smaller projects and spare Voron parts out of ASA/PCCF.
That's a very difficult question to answer! if you're leaning towards 250mm (which isn't small in my book) - I would go Trident. You'll get exceptional prints and it's a fairly easy build. If you want smaller I would consider a Salad Fork, but do keep in mind that smaller printers tend to be harder to work around. Parts are just smaller. Ideally, assuming you have space, a 250 Trident would be my go to option unless I really only had a very small space or needed something you could transport easily. I bring my V0 to work once in a while.. Print things for co-workers kids. You'll have to keep me up on what you end up doing!
100% Sorry about the delay. I've had some setbacks, personal and medical. I'm about 80% on the mend and expect to push it since videos soon! Expect a live stream by next Sunday (Hint) if you're interested.
sry i think i used the wrong term .. I was thinking about the y extrusions where the y linear are attached .. i just want to know if there is enough clearance to push the idler housing in place without removing the extrusions..
@@BuildItBasement, not sure if I will ever be the first to learn anything but you brought up a question. Why not just use rolling nuts on the Voron 0 rather than using square nuts?
I'm so sorry, the music fading in and out is absolutely insufferable and made this video unwatchable. pick a volume for your background music track and stick to it, there is no reason anyone would want to turn up the music at any point, let alone inconsistently every second or so between breaths
Sorry about the music - I'm still learning how to edit and will try to get it right next time! It is meant to be a background track, not a driving force of the video. You're right! I have stopped using ducking on other videos, guess this is what you get when you learn to edit videos by watching TH-cam tutorials😂
Finally back to watching you excellent videos! You know my OCD would require that I use feeler gauges to get that A/B rail centered. Keep up the great work!
Feel free! I will say one thing to that... You're only as good as your skills and your tools. I have no skills and my tools are par, at best. LOL Thanks Woody!!! I'm working on some non-printer build videos and I'm going to MRRF soon! Let me know what peaks your interest and who you'd like to see me take a pic with!
I have seen a suggestion that the gantry (A/B drives ) can be assembled outside the frame and then slide to the blind joint position. Then top of frame assembled. Reduces need for finagling.
Interesting, I'm not sure how well it would work as the top frame really doesn't secure the gantry much. Any removal or manipulations of the frame at this point of the build will require you to re-square and re-check all extrusions. Fortunately double checks are a good thing! If you are doing a non-pin mod version of this build I would just remove /loosen the screws in the drive units. This would give you enough "flex". In this video, I choose not to remove any screws more to see/prove that any disassembly was not needed, and if it was - to be minimal.
Man I didn’t even have a trident and I’m so excited when a new video about this build is posted haha
Thanks! Never too late to build one...
I believe if you loosen the screws a bit on one of the A/B units, you should be able to get the cross beam in more easily
You are correct - However with these pin-mod units the only screws are the ones going to the steppers. They are quite far from the openings and I was fearful of losing a pin if I was to open the drive unit too much. BUT 100% if your not using a pin mod you can loosen it up a lot. If you are using a pin mod you can loosen it, just be careful!
Just sold off my Prusa, so I need a "smaller brother" for my 2.4R2 300. What do you recommend? 250mm Trident? A Salad Fork (160mm version)? I'm mainly looking for something with a small footprint, enclosed, that I can use to print smaller projects and spare Voron parts out of ASA/PCCF.
That's a very difficult question to answer! if you're leaning towards 250mm (which isn't small in my book) - I would go Trident. You'll get exceptional prints and it's a fairly easy build. If you want smaller I would consider a Salad Fork, but do keep in mind that smaller printers tend to be harder to work around. Parts are just smaller. Ideally, assuming you have space, a 250 Trident would be my go to option unless I really only had a very small space or needed something you could transport easily. I bring my V0 to work once in a while.. Print things for co-workers kids. You'll have to keep me up on what you end up doing!
@@BuildItBasement Will do. It's good to have options. Appreciate the info.
Hey do you have a link for the STL for the Hexagon Trays Every time I look for it on Printables I can not find them?
www.printables.com/model/57542-interlockable-sorting-cups-now-with-lids - Hope that helps!
@@BuildItBasement thanks
Since i ordered mine i couldn't wait for it to arrive an start building it.. unfortunately i have to wait 8 Weeks.. 😢
Well... That should give me a decent lead! More videos = more help! (Hopefully)
Is the Trident still being built?
100% Sorry about the delay. I've had some setbacks, personal and medical. I'm about 80% on the mend and expect to push it since videos soon! Expect a live stream by next Sunday (Hint) if you're interested.
@@BuildItBasement your health and family comes first! I was just wondering what was up. Get well soon! No rush.
Did you have to remove the sides, to install the bfi front idlers ?
No - However you will need to re-run your belts.
BTW - you should be using clamps on your sides! - Struck me after I answered, "How difficult is it to remove the side panels?"
sry i think i used the wrong term .. I was thinking about the y extrusions where the y linear are attached .. i just want to know if there is enough clearance to push the idler housing in place without removing the extrusions..
Yes, there is enough flex in the part. I would suggest sort of twisting it in place.@@markdionecutajar
@@BuildItBasement :) thats great thanks ...
First view, first to comment :)
But, are you first to learn anything!?
@@BuildItBasement, not sure if I will ever be the first to learn anything but you brought up a question. Why not just use rolling nuts on the Voron 0 rather than using square nuts?
The extrusions are too small...
Almost got first. 😂
I didn't want to brag - But I actually watched it first...
first loser lol :)
If your not first... your last
I'm so sorry, the music fading in and out is absolutely insufferable and made this video unwatchable. pick a volume for your background music track and stick to it, there is no reason anyone would want to turn up the music at any point, let alone inconsistently every second or so between breaths
Sorry about the music - I'm still learning how to edit and will try to get it right next time! It is meant to be a background track, not a driving force of the video. You're right! I have stopped using ducking on other videos, guess this is what you get when you learn to edit videos by watching TH-cam tutorials😂