I built Voron Trident... is It worthy?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- My GitHub configs Repo: github.com/Agi...
Voron Wiring Manual: docs.vorondesi...
FormBot Kit: www.formbot3d....
Instagram: / hobbyist_notes
Thank you for watching, welcome to comment section!
My FormBot kit came with the Hall effect x-y endstop module and I found it inconsistent due to the camber heat. I changed to mechanical endstops similar to what you have and have been quite happy with xy homing ever since.
Oh yea those can be very annoying and I trust mechanical switches more than other solutions. In this case I believe it's just fair to get what ever was advertised doesn't matter if it's better or worst.
@@hobbyistnotes I totally agree, just may be a blessing in disguise if your planning on using for prints that need a heat chamber. :-)
Imagine making such an awesome thing in the wrong colors. RED/ORANGE/WHITE BRO COME ON lol. Kidding, I love it. (Asuka is best girl for real though)
My one is a Hulk but your one also a good one I will thing about those colors next time ;-)
such an interesting build with a nice colors )
Great video. Is there a big difference in the Switchwire speed and the Tident? Or is the main difference the quality of the print at the higher speed? Trying to figure out which one to build. I print a lot of single wall larger prints for RC planes.
Trident have few advantages over Switchwire especially if you print ABS or temperature dependent plastics, with Swithcwire your part always moving thru air which adds extra complexity to the printing. Switchwire is good at Z-hops as there is no "z-screw lag". After making both of those id pick Trident anytime over SW especially considering the price.
Switchwire still slings the bed
As I sit here watching, unboxing my second printer, Sovol SV05, I can’t help but appreciate the design Voron brings to the table. My first printer, large format bed slinger, Anet A8 plus, never got “great reviews” for many reasons I can agree with but? It taught me a lot and I’ll continue using it. This one, a little different, I consider my next step towards core xy and, it’s still sub 300 bucks. My next printer, hopefully in 2023, will undoubtedly be a Voron. In my limited experience / view, I believe, that’s the best design on the market. Though, Bambu labs… Except, I want open source and a LARGE mod community and love the build as much as printing so, maybe a Bambu some day but, not a focus. Anyway, great video, great printer and awesome build!!!
My 1st was Tevo Tornado thought me a lot too.
Check out the VZbot! I was sold on a trident until I found the Vzbot and it made me reconcider! RatRigs are also worth consideration
@@jamesbaker2092 For me personally VZbot license is a bit tricky... But for other people it might be a very good option for sure.
@@hobbyistnotes What do you mean about licence?
@@jamesbaker2092 VZbot project has NonCommercial license so let's say I am making money on TH-cam this license can be a bit tricky. That main reason why this printer is not really spread around popular TH-camrs.
Great topic, thanks 👍
Probe wires, such as thermistors cannot be in that clamp/sleve you used, has to be bare wire contacts.
If you look closer to the wires that on 3:30 where I explain wiring you will notice that those aren't the original probe wires, those are premade PTFE harness that came with the kit. On my Switchwire I have used the cable that came with the probe and I have 0 issues with it printing over the year+. I know that Nero3D talking about this issue a lot on his streams but per my experience everything seems fine if you aren't making sharp angles and cable tension in to the chains is properly set.
Ай лайк зет инглиш войс виз террибл рашн акцент. Гуд ворк комрад
Ит из вот ит из! Спасибо!
Sweet build! What size bed did you go with?
250 and I have no regrets
Nice looking build! I have a couple of those anycubic filters in my FDM too.
Thanks! Those aren't Anycubic's but I guess made at the same factory and have same performance.
Baka shinji! xD
🤫
this gives me splatoon vibes :P
Initially I thought it's something like Hulk, but you are right Splatoon also fits!
Here I am thinking my Biqu BX has cooling issues and now I've got a goal to strive for
get in the robot shinji...
I actually want to…
I can hear a strong Russian accent. :-))
But yeah, thanks, I'm starting the build now, so wanted to check what issues people typically encounter.
🤫
It is worthy.
Unit 01
Nice I just built an 0.1 and am eyeing up something bigger :)
Honestly, I wish I built this one first 😅
Автор русский
Так точно 🫡
Nice
❤
🤪
Sparta abs quality is actually bad, the surface is rough as there are millions of tiny dimples throughout. That problems exist with all their sparkle filament, and it’s weird no one ever point that out. I can even see that clearly from a far in your videos
Interesting point. I have exactly the same texture with my KVP sparkle filaments (Black and Dark blue) personally it never affected the mechanical properties of the parts I have used in my Printers(Trident and 0.1) or at least I tend to believe it. I prefer such texture as it helps to hide all print imperfections but I guess it's more like a Taste moment, though you might be on something.
@@hobbyistnotes I never had that problem with KVP's filments, which I got a long while ago before they became inconsistant. Their surface is smooth. I also want to say if you try to feel the texture of the sparta filament on the spool you can also feel the uneveness to the surface. While KVP still on the spool is really smooth.
@@user-yk1cw8im4h Just started printing Klicky probe and decide to dig deeper regarding this topic. I compared both filaments and also took under the microscope look and I totally disagree with you... Sparta's Blue sparkle finished print texture is so much smoother than KVP Blue sparkle (at least one I have on hands) May be the reason is that I print on 245(C) with it... idk... but comparing filament cards and some done prints that is what I see, to make it clear I am not sponsored by Sparta or KVP and it's my own observations. Maybe it's something to do with batches of Sparta's or KVP's I have?
what slicer do you use ?
I used to use Prusa slicer and lately switched over SuperSlicer completely.
Any thoughts on the Trident vs a Troodon 2.0?
If I correctly understood, Troodon is pretty much Voron 2.4 and I see it as a machine with fun but over complicated kinematics - the more parts printer has, the more things can go wrong and the more you need to maintain. I had plans to buy 2.4 as a challenge to learn and try something new, but considering its price and the fact that I already have a few very good printers, in my case such a purchase doesn't make any financial sense at all, maybe only as TH-cam content. At this point whole market is shifting dramatically with Bambu Labs printers quality and speeds, so printers in such price category might not be a good purchase. I feel like in the next few years we will see printers with way better price to value a point.
@@hobbyistnotes I'm leaning towards a Trident but it's hard to justify when comparing it to a Bambu w/ an AMS. The only thing keeping me from getting the Bambu is the cloud functionality. I don't want to be limited in what I'm able to print if laws were to change and restrict certain things which leads me right back to a Voron build.
@@BLWN402 Same happened with Drones... DJI (whom engineers now in Bambu) have made Remote ID built in their drones and you can't fly them in restricted areas they just fall of the sky... tho if be honest we are far from such limits, too much hustle to determine the part. Self made printers will be around 800$ if you source good parts, few of my friends got Bambu P1S(750$) and they are very happy with speeds and quality of the prints... question is what exactly you need printer for, if it's just printing than there is no value better than Bambu X1S now... if for over all hobby and tinkering than Voron Trident is the best in terms of quality maintenance and complexity.
Is that Sparta Candy Apple Sparkle I see?
Sparta Candy Green
@@hobbyistnotes Nice. I used almost the same colour scheme on my Switchwire, though I used the sparkle version. Purple extrusions, Candy Apple Green Sparkle, with Galaxy Black Sparkle on a lot of my accents. You made a good looking printer, nice job.
It might be fully reasonable to build a Trident as it looks quite balanced in terms of budget and the possibilities it can give. But the only thing which makes no sense to replicate is its stock X-axis assembly including the extruder as it looks entirely irrelevant from a physics perspective due to its unjustified enormous mass (yet huge momentum of inertia unless if you're going to print turtle slow.
I agree and disagree with you at the same time. The only issue this printer has now is how fast hotend can melt the plastic/filament and at this point it is main limiting factor even with such heavy toolhead. I vbeen printing with higher temps to increase flow and speeds around 200mm+ and 10k acceleration with 0 noticeable issues. That is why I think your comment is relevant only if you have 35+mm^3/s volumetric flow.
Its not made of lead its just a plastic shell its not exactly heavy 😅
@@thegarageluthier True, but every gram is meaningful, like in racing, when you want to print fast.
@@hobbyistnotes That is true but I think most people aren't looking at the actual limitations of going fast and the reality that surrounds it, the speed at which you can melt filament and then cool it. Then the reliability and servicing issues that come with pushing the machines to the limits. It's fun but not sustainable. And 99% of people will never push their machines to those extremes so Stealthburner with standard x gantry will get you where you want to be with a HF hotend.
@@thegarageluthier True, nothing to add.
what colours are the parts printed in ?
Amh… it’s shown in the video 🤷♂️
Purple and green
Great video, love the color scheme, I am seriously debating between geting a printer from bambu labs (with the ams) or getting a voron kit, saving up money until i decide what to get, thanks for the video
I have spent last month thinking about bamboo labs with AMS... Lucky for me I am not really printing much of multicolor and most of the thing I print are functional parts.
I bought the bambu labs p1p +ams In February and it’s been great and I have had hardly any failed prints. I previously had an ender 3 so I had a basic understanding of printing. But with the bambu labs printers Nearly everything is done for you so if you are looking to learn more about it then bambu isn’t a good option. If you are just looking for a very fast reliable and good quality printer you can unbox and be ready to use in 15 minutes then bambu is for you
@@ZFGFZDGDFGFor sure hard to argue! Bamboo have overtaken the space at this point if you need printer to print without any distractions it's the way to go. It has few little concerns with proprietary parts but if it prints it prints.
@@hobbyistnotes I want to build a voron but don’t want to spend £1.3k(what it costs here in England for a kit) on a 2.4 and then for it to not work because I miss somthing. I think I’m gonna look at a .2 to start with then when I’m comfortable with it look at a trident or a 2.4
@@ZFGFZDGDFG I think you can build Voron significantly cheaper if you are ready to source parts urself.
Чувак, если ты понимаешь это сообщение дай знать. Я создал сообщество русскоязыяное по ворону, хочу базу знаний собрать
Привет, так есть же сообщество уже у ворона и там ребята на Русском общаются.
@@hobbyistnotes то, что я находил, это группы по 2- человека. Если есть ссылка дай знать, добавлюсь
@@OK_3D_JOY Погляди вот тут: discord.gg/voron там есть канал vodka_voron_balalayka
Привет! Почему выбрал Трайдент? Он чем то лучше 2.4(кроме цены)? Никак не могу определится что выбрать.
Привет. Для меня Ось-Z на ремнях в 2.4 имеет кучу недостатков и один из самых основных это Gantry-Racking. Trident имеет более простую конструкцию по сравнению с 2.4, чем сложнее система тем больше проблемных мест по определению. Так как у меня уже есть Voron Switchwire с Осью-Z на ремнях и с концептом я уже знаком моя цель была собрать принтер на котором я смогу печатать стабильно, без особых танцев с бубном, более требовательные пластики типа ABS/ASA и.т.д. К примеру у 2.4 есть потенциал стать принтером с "бесконечной ремневой постелью" для печати в цикле, но это то чем я вряд ли буду заниматься. В итоге если принтер для тебя сам по себе является хобби и ты будешь его постоянно модифицировать и допиливать то 2.4 поинтереснее, а если надо стабильный принтер с минимальными проблемами то Trident отлично для этого подходит.
@@hobbyistnotes спасибо за подробный ответ! В модификации уже наигрался с китайскими принтерами, ищу как раз таки что-то стабильное и надёжное:)
@@The99e Я вот тоже наигрался и название канала намекает на то что мне интересны не только 3д принтеры, так вышло что цель была собрать принтер для других задач и я немного застрял на принтерах. Интересный факт большая часть ребят кто работает\печатает по PIF программе используют именно Trident'ы и после того как я собрал его стало достаточно очевидно почему: принтер реально хорошо продуман и достаточно прост + адекватная цена и потенциал.
what about fire risk?
Using ANY manufacturing equipment, there is always a chance of getting 'hurt' in one way or another, especially when working with high temperatures while melting plastic. The Voron printer itself is very well designed, equipped with a thermal fuse on the bed, and the Klipper software includes good thermal runaway detection. However, it is still not advisable to solely rely on these safety features without additional precautions. That's why I highly recommend having a smoke detector and a fire extinguisher in the room where you are 3D printing. Being prepared is always better than being sorry.
It's interesting that some people assume a cheap 3D printer from China will be safer than a self-made machine where you have personally tightened every screw. However, safety doesn't solely depend on the price or origin of the printer. In fact, with a self-made machine, you have more control over its construction and can ensure that all components are securely in place, reducing potential risks.
Overall, it is essential to prioritize safety and take the necessary precautions when working with any manufacturing equipment, including 3D printers.
@@hobbyistnotes Thank you for clarifications. I agree with all the points you mentioned. Maybe in europe it is problematic when it comes to CE certification and insurance coverage. Even printers made in china are CE certified.
@@RamiRouhana Ohh.. yeah I can totally see how certification can be a pain especially with self-made machine...
sorry but the "this loooks very clean" made me laugh out loud. There is a lot more calibration to be done and the room for improvement is huge. Now i see you only spent 800$ on it so that's clean.
Have fun ;)
Exactly, there is huge room for improvements and a lot to calibrate. It’s clean for “stock printer”.
@@hobbyistnotes indeed, and this is very satisfying to see each improvements. Have fun with your Voron 🙂
@@Guenounovitch Thanks. I agree, satisfying, already working on the video with some little improvements.
I would love to build a voron, but i'm worried that i'll mess up the wiring and firmware won't work. Nice build!
If you rush building it that might be an outcome, but if you take ur time and do it slow with guidance of the community chances are slim.
You will never know if you don’t try. Take your time, ask questions, and if you aren’t sure then take a pic and send it to the discord! They are a great help
@@tomblomfield6973 I think i'll give it a shot and collect the parts overtime after i move and get my conveyor printer first. I've been building pc's for almost a decade, and i feel like this is the next big step in the diy hobby. Looking forward to it tbh.
The boards are actually pretty easy to work with, the docs provided usually works.