วีดีโอ

You bet!

@@BuildItBasement ooooh thats not given for free... I need an ECRF build :)

Tell you what - You get (20) more people in the next (10) days to comment that they want to have me build a ECRF on this videos comments and I'll do it!

Sorry to hear that you're building with me. Slow going! But since you mention that - maybe I can speed up some! Also - feel free to contact me directly via email if you run in to anything you find difficult or "neat". I'm always, all ears!

@@BuildItBasement I really appreciate that you are so available to us for assistance. That is amazing sir. I have gotten ahead and almost finished my build. But always watch your videos and than fix my mistakes. Hahaha😅. Keep up the great work and cant wait to see your next video.

@@acozad1 You may enjoy the work I'm planning with USB. NiteHawk, USB Hub, Beacon. doing some testing -maybe I should make videos of those things too?

@@BuildItBasement I would like to see those videos. I am interested to learn usb over canbus. I am going with CanBus. EBB2209 RP2040 with the voron tap. Senor-less homing. I went with the octopus max ez and using 5160 for xy and 2209 for the z steppers. Have no idea how to work it but its almost done. 🤣

Anytime!

Kinda empty comment - but you're 100% first! You make me smile! lol

maaaan, only cause I was busy working on my zzzzzz

eSun worked just fine. Hatchbox turned out to be, not so great. On the Hatchbox the layer adhesion was fine, however, the parts started breaking across the parts. It was a slow process of swapping out parts as they broke until I finally just replaced them all. I can't speak for the Voron Team, but I would suspect that inconsistency in batches was the biggest issue. That and lower-than-normal temperatures deforming (creep) the material. A good rule/test is to print a 5-10mm "flattened" cube with a m5 hole in it. Once printeedand cooled screw an m5 bolt and nut in at room temperature. Ensure the nut is tight,. Place the part on a heated bed at roughly 50-60 degrees for 10 minutes. Remove the heated part and see how much more you can easily tighten the nut. You should expect some wiggle room, maybe a rotation at most. Just my experience, YMMV.

I'll definitely try this test .. also I mostly printed using a 1.5 year old roll of esun.. only cw2 and cosmetic parts where printed using the new batch of esun .. colour difference between the 2 black rolls I have is slightly visible and prints are more flexible with the new roll .. I might just print the cw2 just in case :) ..thanks a lot for the reply

I always suggest you have at least (1) set of replacement parts for all mech/stressed parts. Good to have them for back-up. I have so many spare parts now... I keep them all in individual ziploc bags for each printer. Much more important if you don't have a good way to print replacement parts, but good either way.

Minor changes. Mounting holes spaced slightly more to accommodate some roll-nuts that needed addition space. Wings slightly longer to recess the front of the idler a bit more from the front of the printer.

Exact notes are: "Added 2mm to the sides to hold the unit further back and added 1.5mm to the spacing between the mounting holes to the M5 roll nuts."

Check your wiring - Sounds like you have your signal wire crossed. Confirm via the diagram for your Tap. Hope that's it! Let me know.

@BuildItBasement I switched the probe and signal wires but now it stays solid red. I thought that even before configuring mainsail the sensor would trip? As I mentioned above, I am following the Voron manual using the default probe wiring and pins. This is my second build but have switched from the inductive probe to tap. I'm stumped.

Check and double check those wires. Are you using CAN? Normally these types of issues can be caused when the ground wire and signal wire are swapped. I too use PG15 for the probe, I use 5V at the tool head - too many issues a while back with 24V use. Voltage and ground can come from anyplace as long as the voltage matches the requirements of your Tap - signal should just be signal. Instead of looking at the LED I would suggest checking what the MCU sees in real time via the console or GUI.

@BuildItBasement no can but I am using a formbot pcb. I used a meter to verify continuity. I'll try running direct and see if that resolves the issue. Thanks for the insight.

github.com/clee/VoronBFI/tree/main/usermods/Tetsu/Symetrical%20BFI

@@BuildItBasementAwesome, thanks! I’ve actually got those printing now, after watching your video.

A W E S O M E - Hey share it back, you can email me @ kerm@builditbasement.com or find me on Discord (BuilditBasement) I would love to try it and maybe show it! It's all about helping each other and learning.

100% agree! LDO ARE YOU LISTENING!?? Maybe I can do a PSA/Begging video! It would solve a lot of peoples problems.

I have been meaning to do a video showing how I modified the part. It's on a list! Trust me! List is long, time is short!

Thanks!

100% agree - actually mentioned this in a previous video in this series. I guess the only counter argument I could/someone could come up with is that: Once heated the ABS may become more malleable and under stress the hold ay not be as "springy". But, really - do what makes you happy and learn as you go. (Again I agree with you!!!)

You know, I have been told that a few times.. It is about 5X easier for the person making the video to do them that way and that's why you see so many folks doing them in that style. No editing, possibly help from the audience. I'm trying to find my path where I provide enough information, but don't cause myself undue stress and have time. We'll zone in eventually! Thanks for letting me know I'm in the right direction.

What ^ They said!

Awesome, thank you!

Thanks again!

Almost nailed it.. so close - but so far!

Soon

Thanks Brad!

I also have had the same questions - and concluded the same two things. 1) Yup. The start print location may be off by .02,03,04?? But decided that doesn't matter to me. 2) If I do prints with manual filament changes, it may be an issue! I really haven't had many (any) issues with switches on any of my four printers. I do wonder what's more precise the electronics seeing the jump in current or the physical switch. Sound like a good video, at some point! lol...

@@BuildItBasement Thank you for the reply! I have done quite a few manual filament swap prints while running sensorless. At least with my macro, sensorless or not should be irrelevant because I don't rehome. I could see a benefit to rehome if there's a risk of the tool head getting bumped out of position before the print resumes, but I'm not particularly worried about that.

I rehome at the change, allows me to park front, home, purge and brush. Everyone is different - and cutting the homing out of the process could be the fix if sensorless is less precise than a microswitch.

There are a bunch of things that limit FPS, the setting in Crowsnest is basically just a "speed limit". The encoding type and ability for the Pi to process the video will be your main issues. If you're seeing 1fps, I would ask if you have more than one camera installed and what resolution you're using it/them at.

@@BuildItBasement only one cam 1080 p

Have you tried MJPEG for your stream type? What are you running for your Klipper setup? Pi 3?4?5? Another alternative?

@@BuildItBasement I'm running klipper on a BTT Pi

Add this to your crowsnest config file: custom_flags: --format=YUYV

Thanks! Anything I can do to help or help others to help even more people! Thanks for the comment - means a lot.

Super Slicer should be the same (they are close cousins, Orca and SS). Cura is different - I thought I provided information on that in the video! Cura was around 6:15... No?

Thanks for responding! I think the issue was that I tried to put the code you had on your cura file onto my orca file. I haven’t gotten a chance but when I do I’m going to try and out the code for SS onto orca and see what happens. I also copied the code for the print start too from your link so I believe that should work fine too. I will let you know when I try again since I’m away from my printer at the moment. I’m new to voron so still trying to learn more about my printer!

It's not overly straight-forward. But, once you wrap your mind around what's happening it starts to make more sense, much the same way that Klipper itself takes some time.

⁠@@BuildItBasementYes definitely! I’ve been probably playing with Klipper for about 6 hours so far and I’m getting use to the mechanics of it so far. Just having the issue of actually printing which I hope I can resolve soon.

Thanks! As for the GE5C - It's not a hugely popular mod, not sure why... Seems like a great idea. Please come back and share how well it works for you! Someone could devote a dozen channels just to Voron mods!

@@BuildItBasement the GE5C mods works well. Only issue I'm having is that the z rail mounts are a tad slimmer and the Y endstop switch doesn't trigger if the gantry has even a little bit of tilt. Kinda defeats the purpose of the mod. I'll have to either change the Y endstop position or edit the GE5C rail part to contact the switch as it's supposed to. Still, the amount of gantry tilt that can be overcome wont be any more than the stock setup. It seems that this mod would work best with sensorless homing as this completely negates any geometry issues causing access to the endstop switch with different degrees of gantry tilt.

I guess my question would be, what is the end benefit? I often find there to be a fine line between "cool idea" and a great mod.

@@BuildItBasement well it's definately cool. As for great mod, well I guess that comes down to how useful it is. It does allow the gantry to articulate more freely which puts less strain on the z mount parts compared to stock. Is it needed. Nope. Not really need with my build. I can see it being useful if you have some chonky AB steppers and get significant gantry sag. Just need to be aware that the gantry being out of plane impacts access to the Y end stop. Best used with sensorless homing.

Thank you so very much. I do try, I don't always do things as well as I would have liked, but just like the printing hobby, video production is a learning experience. Your comment is very much appreciated! 😀

That was way more difficult than it should be. The video was added - but YT added it to the end of the playlist. Normally I do most of the video "stuff" in YT Studio, turns out you need to go to a completely separate place to reorder a playlist. THANKS - and SORRY!

First off, congratulations! When you install Klipper there are some BASIC CONFIGURATION SAMPLES these are great learning tools. I would also check GitHub for your controller board, you'll surely find a printer.cfg there as well. Finally I have a few videos in my back catalog you can look at, just go to my channel and look around. Join the BIB discord. We're always helping others and each other.

It was fun! Next time?

Please (politely) provide some references to easily available "other" solutions that detect the location of the nozzle in relation to the top surface of the build plate. I'm interested!

@@BuildItBasement loadcell for example. It is cheap, light and more accurate

@@tabooretka 100% agree with the loadcell idea. I believe there probably is someone out there working that angle. The difficulty with a loadcell is that you will need one specially designed to mount to the printer and to the hotend. Since the Voron series of printers is HUGE on people building "their" printer, someone will need to source a loadcell of correct specs, size, and beable to mount it in such a way that it could be practically universal. The integrated loadcell on the Prusa would be nice... storage.googleapis.com/prusa3d-content-prod-14e8-wordpress-forum-prod/2023/10/d6fe172e-loadcell-1-570x500.jpg But again, you'd need to make it more universal. Personally, of the current available solutions (off the shelf) the Tap facilitates my needs well. The reverse Tap would be even better (broken contact vs made contact). It's more than precise enough for my printers and the weight doesn't really cause me any grief. In a perfect world - a Bowden-tube extruder (no motor), a loadcell, and no gimmick electronics in the head would give you a super light head! Add in a Revo and some decent fans - lightweight PC no PA ducts.. WHOS UP FOR AN ENGINEERING CHALLANGE! 😀

@@BuildItBasement it does not to be hot-end. You can mount the bed on four loadcells. Voron 2.4 unlike any other is suitable for this as the bed is stationary. That way the “tap” is moved out of the printhead entirely.

Could be an option. I wonder how that would look when printing large/heavy items. I also wonder what engineering would need to take place to maintain my kinematics mounting systems. All great things start with an idea!

Quite the comment there. So let me see if I can help you some, from my point of view. The Ender 3 is a great printer for the money, however, it is really starting to show it's age as a basic and only slightly upgraded bed slinger. Printing "more complex" plastics ABS, ASA, NYLON, PC... you name it, require a few key things to do it any level of ease or decent output. Printing Nylon or PC on an Ender 3 is NOT as easy as other materials. Both of these materials require a HOT hotend, a decently HOT bed and a chamber/ambient air temp around 60+ degrees. It could be argued that you can get prints done by making some hackish changes (heck I did this in a video where I printer PC on my Ender 5). Building a printer is a hobby all on to it's own. It''s not easy, it's not hard, it takes time and effort. (X10 if you're video recording it!) In the end, for the money, IF you want to print more "engineering" grade materials I would get a printer that has an enclosed area and comes with a good direct drive or reverse bowden, a hotend that can reach ~300 degrees, and a bed that can reach 100+ degrees. The K1 could be a nice option amzn.to/3JcSo9n . The QIDI printers are also great, possibly a little better cost/features vs. the Creality. amzn.to/3vNrx0A. Both of these will cost you less than half of what a Voron kit will cost. I love all my Voron printers - but they are a hobby in themselves. They work VERY well and are unlimitedly repairable and have unlimited modifications for feature enhancement, that come s at a cost of time and effort. Keep in mind: Speed and quality are opposing forces!

@@BuildItBasement Yeah, sorry. Thanks for the reply. Appreciate the info.

@@BuildItBasement Sorry, I didn't mean a Voron machine, but a Voron hotend. I know the Ender 3 sucks, but it was all I could afford at the time. Thinking about getting a good hotend for it that I can afford... but hopefully something good, so I can use it on my next printer when I get a new one in the next 6 months or so. Was thinking about maybe setting the ender 3 up for higher temperatures, but then buying a 2nd, better printer for use with most other things (so I can print things like PLA faster). Not sure if that's what I'll do though, because I would prefer to just have one machine that can do both eventually. That's why I've been looking for a hotend that that can print CF Nylon, but hopefully can print at 100-150mm/s without losing quality. (Although I'm not sure if it would print CF Nylon at that speed. Still have a lot to learn).

Speed isn't what it's all cracked up to be, and the motion system of the printer has more to do with quality in a lot of cases. The inherent issues with hotends in terms of quality is oozing. The problem is if you're using a high-flow HE - you tend to get oozing unless you keep that nozzle moving along! To keep moving at decent speed you need a good motion system and MCU that can process the calls to send it to the steppers. If you enjoy my videos and you want to learn more I would suggest the following: TheFirstLayer (Older videos but SOLID info), CNC Kitchen (Look at videos from about a year or two ago), Made With Layers (Again look at some of the 1-2 year old videos), Teaching Tech... and so many others. Don't get caught up in "live streams". I'm always here (as able) to help out. If you send me an email I will send you an open invite to my small discord. I keep it small so that I don't have a crowd of off-topic or random conversations. It's grown some, but my goal is to have an actual helpful Discord! Thanks again for commenting!!!

@@BuildItBasement Thanks. Much appreciated.

Interesting, I'm not sure how well it would work as the top frame really doesn't secure the gantry much. Any removal or manipulations of the frame at this point of the build will require you to re-square and re-check all extrusions. Fortunately double checks are a good thing! If you are doing a non-pin mod version of this build I would just remove /loosen the screws in the drive units. This would give you enough "flex". In this video, I choose not to remove any screws more to see/prove that any disassembly was not needed, and if it was - to be minimal.