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Shucks - Thanks Man. I'm on a tad of a hiatus ATM - but wait until you see the 500mm printer I'll be starting soon! Comments always welcome!

@@BuildItBasement great! Looking forward to that!

Great question - Beacon H. Standard one. The connector faces upwards so it keeps wiring from going too far back. In the end, either would probably work out fine.

Thanks!

100% you may need yo make some minor modifications but it should work and help increase your flow.

@BuildItBasement OK cool thanks

There was a belting video (broken in to two parts) - This is using a Vitalii light weight mount, not the tap mount. I do have a couple of the Vitalii Taps - but I'm testing this with a Beacon ATM...

You're welcome 🤗

More information would be great - let me know anything specific , if you like.

VERY soon. The frame is sitting on a side table while I finalize a few things. I would like to say it will be started before the end of December and completed by February. This assumes no issues.

@@BuildItBasement I am up to electronics on mine. Running into a few things.

@@Rmilyard Electronics or software? feel free to reach out on Discord or via email - I'm easy to find. The electronics for the RR is pretty much the same as any upper-tier hobby printer - the software is basically Klipper. So I'm well versed in both. Honestly, even if I can't help now, it would be good to know what issues to look for!

That is the MRW bed. You can get them directly from Mandela Roseworks or at www.kb-3d.com.

It's in the description. It's an upload of the live "members only" stream I did about 30 days ago. - VERY SORRY - Also... No one said anything during the stream!?

No - I used a Revo Voron. I wasn't aware that Revo made an LDO version. This was a cross between self-source and LDO kit. The only kit form parts were the frame and stepper motors. Awesome note for all Robert!!!

@@BuildItBasement I didnt neither... is there a way to tell the difference?

Always a work in progress - Let me know what's good and bad. More to come and hopefully they'll get even better with some more time!

Sort of... There are multiple options including... Exclusions, nozzle probes, removing center magnets. My intention is to use the Beacon like a Tap. If you check the Beacon website they note that using this method makes it immune to magnetic mishaps! Really, when using the MRW bed meshing isn't really needed. When Beacon released the touch probing it finally made me interested in the probe. I'm not a fan of z offset.

I'll need to go over the connections when we do software, so I spared you....

Yeah - do the crimping video!

@@runbuh Adding it to the list.

Woody - Will do! (but you may need to remind me). The scissor style is great when you are first learning since it ensures you get a solid crimp on both the insulator and the wire. *assuming you test as you crimp* These take the headache out of doing it twice, line it up - hold the crimp - insert the wire - squeeze! DONE.

I believe it does mention removing half the fan - but I've done it so many times I could be making that thought up. You'll note that as humans - there can be some human error in the manual. Often you will see pages missing from one version to another version. If it's not in your documentation - DO me a favor and go to the Voron github and pull down a newer /older version and confirm if it's in one of those. I'll expect a full reply tomorrow! - J/K.

@@BuildItBasement Why wait until tomorrow?! or even the next hour?!🤣 Yeah it said to split the fan in half and sand off the nubs. It didn't say which side to sand the nubs off of and it didn't say to put the fan back together but I assumed you would. Either way, for that part it was neglecting to say what exactly to do. If it said to discard the cover that would be better. This is just one example of many as I went through it. Also, to clarify, I am not complaining about the Voron team. I am wanting to figure it out myself so that I can translate my build experience to potential changes or fixes that I could propose be made. I want to make this project more approachable for everyone from the guide perspective. Hell, maybe I should just start a guide on building it all (stock) with the LDO kit start to finish. Maybe even make a choose your own adventure for trying the different mods that are included in the kit. Some like to build stock and then add even the basic mods. Some like to make it their final configuration from the get go. It would be nice to provide cohesive documentation for all of those possibilities in one spot. But that would only be for a single kit from a manufacturer. It would constantly change with different revisions and need modified if it's too specific for the kit manufacturer and kit revision. I like how I had an idea and talked myself out of it all in the same paragraph 🤣 I am still taking a break on the printer for a couple days. I'll get back and finish the tool head and then move onto electronics (my favorite part) ..for now! haha Thanks for the reply. Oh, also, I am using the latest versions of them. I never thought about checking out past revisions to see what it might have said. Good thought.

It works both ways - but unless you have everything 100% perfect, it can snag, consider this insurance for minor inconsistency!

I've been complaining about the broken manual thing for a couple of years. That's why it's hard to suggest a "kit" - it would be nice if you could just buy an actual BOM kit for someone. The LDO manual hop is not great. Do this (but check here first).

Different methods! The manual does a great job - but options are nice to have.

Old dog and an old trick. I figured that one out back with the original 2.4 I built with a CW1!

The parts trays?

@ the one in blue for the bolts and nuts

I know at least one person who will love to hear this comment - I'll update with his reply since the addition of chapters was his request/idea... - GREAT to get this kind of feedback! Help me make things better for all! Keep 'em coming!

Interested in what headaches you had? The build should be similar to the CAN system where you actually have multiple MCU, however less converting from this to that and bac to this again! All that being said a CANBus direct MCU isn't a "bad thing".

I'm interested in knowing what issues you had too. I didn't have to much issues setting it up originally (aside from the crimping), but I did have issues when I decided to update my firmware on the board which in turn caused me to have to redo all of the firmware and it was a pain in the butt. (Life lesson is don't update everything just to update)) Please share what other issues you had.

@@ReneWilsonSC You'll have to stick around and see! Issues ALWAYS crop up when you configure software. Having an open platform has its positives and negatives. With great power comes great responsibility!!!!

Tools can make a difference. The ones I use are in one of the Amazon lists in my affiliate shop. Link in the video and video description.

Pad 11s are pricey but are the best I find. I have all 3 of the engineer crimper

iWiss can do pretty well - I suggest that people get a singe row crimper to learn so they have to crimp the outer and inner separately - then the iCrimp IWS-3220M are my normal go-to pair.

Both print very well. Polynaker is hard to beat, when everything is considered. I just prefer to work with smaller suppliers and companies that seem more vested in helping the community and not doing it to strictly grow their consumer base. But... That's MHO...

@@BuildItBasement And I like trying other vendors. It's always good to have alternative sources. :)

I may do some dry runs... The less editing, the more I can accomplish!

I'm actually doing 48v on the X and Y of the Trident​ I'm currently building. This is my first RR so my intent is to build it as shipped. I want to give people a clear picture of what you get... I'm hoping that since the kit comes from the manufacturer this will be a streamlined build. I'd also like to make this a great resource for people who are considering Rat Rig, maybe, if things go well we'll see a RR CNC in the future (I'm looking at you Rat Rig). Happy to have you along for the build!🎉

Awesome! Keep in tough we can compare notes!

@Rmilyard How long was the waiting time ? About to order mine

Hard to say - It was over two months for me, but that was a while back. I was say you're looking at at least 30 days, possible a decent amount longer. It also depends on where in the world you are located. They are currently working on product for delivery in late December to mid January. On the plus side - plenty of time for you to see me make mistakes that you won't have to!

@ ok thanks for the information! 🙂

@@E9XCarparts 8 weeks. I should be here Tuesday.

Thanks! - Will do.

...500 for the win! Figure if you go idex that gives you almost printers in one?!?

@ looking forward to this video. Never seen you before. I’m excited

You're not the first to say that - YT is sometimes a broken system. If you haven't seen me you end up having to dig deep in the depths of the algorithm!

It helps to fill in the blanks. Double edged sword! No music means a lot of silence or editing out sections. Music - well, honestly if I didn't have to have it I wouldn't! Maybe I should just talk more! (c: - Thanks!

@ Your new editing style and studio are great! The callouts are great, and your explanations are good. The music, man. Try one video without it and see the statistics on full views, I guess. Anyways, I’m here to stay so whatever you choose I’m here ❤️

I'll do that - It's always a work in progress. No music on the next video - done. (Helps that the next video is all edited and I just need to add music).

@ you rock man 😭

One can only wonder what the next video is going to be about...

loook at @@BuildItBasement trying to be all Rey Mysterio!! LOL

Very

I have - this heater is nearly edge to edge of the plate. There was no real room for tape. Once done I cleaned the edges with a green scrubber pad, there was some very minor over-"spray". I felt that I needed every mm I could get to ensure a fair amount of silicone to adhere the heater, if/when needed due to glue fail.

Me too!

Videos will be forthcoming - Soup to Nuts... A to Z All the nuts and bolts!

Sorry about the music - I'm still learning how to edit and will try to get it right next time! It is meant to be a background track, not a driving force of the video. You're right! I have stopped using ducking on other videos, guess this is what you get when you learn to edit videos by watching TH-cam tutorials😂

They did it to themselves! BOM.. Funny stuff - point to you for noticing!

What I was told, not what I said!

I feel you've been scorn! He's the deal - CW1 I agree, replaced that on my original 2.4 in about a week, with a Bondtech LGX. CW2 Disagree. I have over 500hrs on my V2.4 Minion with CW2 and it has never failed. I can push about 20 mm^3/s of ABS or ASA, which for me is plenty. It's generally light weight, easy to build and 100% matches the style of the SB and Voron. Now - that being said, the Galileo (2) and Orbiter are awesome units! I would definitely like to assemble and test a Gal! But most kits for the Voron Trident and 2.4 come with parts to make the CW2 - It's a tad simpler (less parts) and a great start when you are building your printer for the first time. Let's here it - WHO would like for me to build and test a Gal (2)? DO a 100% unbiased review of the build and the use...

@@BuildItBasement CW2 is poorly designed. There are parts in it that are FAR too breakable, and they break. Enough for me. I've had to rebuild two CW2 since their launch all for the same reasons. That's 2 too many for my liking. I feel like they designed for weight savings, instead of durability. I want something that is reliable and just works. I'm not looking to set world records.

Interested in what broke?

@@BuildItBasement The latch mech. EVERY. DAMN. TIME.

Good to know - sorry to hear! Pesky duck. Hopefully you know I do read, consider, and take in your comments! I'm 100% there for upgrades and such - but- I do like to at least TRY to stay close to the kit BOM or original BOM. Back when I first started making printers there wasn't so many kits and so many changes. It very hard for a first time builder to know what to do or even where to start! I usually advise people to build their first printer using the BOM or a kit - then upgrades... On the Galileo 2 have you opened it back up to look at the printed gear on the external of the planetary? Looks like a weak or wear item, interested - did you print yours? ABS? PA? Just wondering... If you like and you have Discord look me up!

100% NON essential. But, also it's a fun project and does help move your build quality up a notch or two. Having a tool for the job makes it easier when you need to do a bunch of these inserts. If I was doing one to five for myself I would probably just grab my iron (assuming it's handy). The biggest thing to remember is that when you insert them by-hand you need to make sure you are very close to 180 degrees. When I do these by hand I often thread in a 20-30mm screw after doing them to see if the insert looks straight. Adding a long screw can give you a better and exaggerated idea of how well you did/didn't do. Great question! I've been considering adding a short intro to my videos - maybe going over the tools we'll use would be a good addition to those! Any one have thoughts on video intros?

@@BuildItBasement Maybe do some shorts around specific tool usage? Don't you get about 3 minutes max for shorts?

They were 1min - I did see a mention of longer shorts -So you're saying like 3minute tool use or "tips" videos? Yeah?

@@BuildItBasement Yeah, man!

You didn't need heat insert tooling, but it sure makes like nice. A simple soldering iron with a tip sized appropriately is enough. You'll thank yourself for spending the extra $15.

More than happy to do a 10x10 with the tap on my Minion - I can put the picture in the community page for you to compare to your bed. You pick, cold or what temp!?

1) If we're puling all stops - I have three of these beds and I really don't need to mesh. 2) Beacon does work with these beds, either by use of a thick build plate or exclusion of the magnetic zones. It's been tested and it works. 3) Beacon, on their own site *here* : docs.beacon3d.com/contact/ states that using the contact version of the probe is " immune to fixed permanent magnets and metallurgical material variations" - To me, the only thing worse than having a bad mesh or poorly meshed bed is a bed that is a taco, or worse. No matter the adaptations made by firmware and the printer, the bottom of the print will not be flat. I would rather have a flat print than a curved print that still sticks to the bed! Take a look at the link provided and give me your take - I'm always interested in how information is interpreted!

i agree i just switched from tap to cartographer and it is miles and miles better than tap

Keep in mind that Tap was meant to be a DIY solution...@@PrintingPress3D

@@PrintingPress3D Imagine if you used Beacon! Cartographer sucks imo.

@ well if i used beacon id be out 70$ instead of 30. mind explaining why beacon is better? they function identically