TKO600 Install (Part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Here's a link to (Part 1) in case you missed it: • TKO600 Install (Part 1...
Link to previous video in the #FairmontProject series: • #FairmontProject Final...
Link to full version of video: www.ericthecar...
This video is the conclusion of the TKO600 transmission install.
Just as a recap, I decided to go with a TKO600 over the T-5 I was running because of how much power my engine made on the dyno. It appeared that the T-5 was not going to be able to handle the 622lbft of torque that engine put out. I'm told the TKO600 will handle this power just fine.
I also cover the installation of a steel bell housing as well as a new transmission crossmember in this series. I hope you find it entertaining and educational.
The #FairmontProject playlist: • ETCG Gets a New Car! -...
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarg...
Check out the ETCG Blog for the latest info: www.ericthecar...
Camera: Brian Kast
Thanks for watching!
Discussion about this video: www.ericthecar...
Links
Modern Driveline: moderndriveline...
Quicktime Racing: www.holley.com...
Stifflers: www.buystiffler...
ARP Fasteners: www.arp-bolts.com
Parts
TKO600: transmission.mo...
Bell Housing Kit: transmission.mo...
Clutch: www.moderndrive...
Clutch Hydraulics: transmission.mo...
Transmission Crossmember: transmission.mo...
Anaerobic Sealer: www.5speeds.com...
High Temp Urea Grease: www.amazon.com...
Amsoil Syncromesh Fluid: www.amsoil.com/...
Tools
Transmission Jack: www.jbtoolsales...
Flywheel Holder: www.summitraci...
Astro Pneumatic Saw: www.jbtoolsale...
Torque Wrench: www.rakuten.com...
Brillo Pads: www.brillo.com/...
Related Videos
How a Clutch Works: • Learn How A Clutch Wor...
Ultimate T-5 Manual Transmission Rebuild with Paul Cangialosi & EricTheCarGuy (Part 1): • Ultimate T-5 Manual Tr...
T-5 Transmission Final Assembly: • T-5 Transmission Final...
#DarkMatterPikachu on the Dyno: • The #FairmontProject E...
Barbara's Van Transmission Replacement (Fixing it Forward)(Part 1): • 1998 Chrysler Town & C...
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
Eric, the most common problem with these conversions is poor clutch release. The height of the pivot ball should be measured relative to the the front face of the bell. Not the back surface. The issue happens when block plates are used moving the pivot away from the clutch. When you reinstall... BEFORE putting the transmission in the car, check that the clutch fork position has the bearing resting against the diaphragm fingers with the fork somewhat centered on the bellhousing's opening. From what I can see at 14:36 it is already hitting the backside of the bell before even touching the fingers. You may have to get a longer release bearing in some cases. There are some other tricks.... call me.
Thanks Paul. I just pulled the engine again last night. This is the perfect time to address an issue like this. I won't be working on it again till next week and it's likely the engine will be out for the next few weeks. Meaning I have time to deal with it before it goes in for the last time. I'll reach out to you to see if you have time to go over it before I do the final install. Thanks again!
EricTheCarGuy sure anytime.
In regards to bellhousing alignment. I figured I'd post this here because their seems to be some hype on it. Let me explain. The TKO used a pretty solid endplay spec due to the front tapered bearing. Out of the box the input has little movement ( up / down - side to side ).
Rule one: Never use a roller pilot. Although people think it's cool, the amount of failures I've seen create damage to the crank and trans input. Use a good bronze oil type with no added metal. ( non magnetic ). Roller pilots need to be dead on aligned. Any misalignment binds the rollers, destroys the bearing, crank and input shaft.
Rule two: TEST. You can test alignment by bolting on the bell with no clutch in place. If the transmission slides in and you can put it in gear, install a rear yoke and freely turn it from the back with no feel of a bind you are pretty good. Typically for example if you are .030 out ( which is common with some bells ) the yoke may feel difficult to install and when rotating it from the back , you'll also feel a bind.
You don't need any special tools to check alignment other than a dial indicator with a magnetic base. It doesn't matter where the base is placed on the flywheel since that radius from the center will be the same through out the rotation. So its not that complex.
Quicktime bells are pretty good, but if the block was align bored then the center location of the crank relative to the dowels will change.
For those wanting to see the insides of the TKO. There is a rebuild / repair video on my channel.
Post the link to that video here Paul and thanks for the info.
GearBoxVideo
Paul do you have a good concentric alignment video I could watch? I think I took out my TKO 600 main shaft and cluster with a misaligned quick time bell housing. I’ll have it out this weekend to check
"These nuts, well..... deez nuts." Ahahahaha that was hilarious
yes
Nice install. Those reciprocating saws are awesome... and no grinding dust! Would have been nice to drill those trans mount holes oversize and weld in some 'crush tubes'. Often trying to bolt through a rail/floor like that they will come loose over time. Crush tube means you can really torque it up nicely and it never comes loose.
Yes! In fact I use those on the torque arm in a later episode. They were also easier to make the second set of holes because after drilling the first set, I inserted the crush tubes and just drilled though those to get through the other side of the frame rail. I recently went back in and removed the brackets so I could paint the area under them. I feel I did a cleaner install with the second attempt. Better washers and positioning.
ArchimedeanEye yeah that little Sawzall is awesome! Who makes the blade?
asm154 1 all kinds of people do, I have found for straight cuts 1/3 or 1/4 of a hacksaw blade, depending on how long you need it to be works great!!
This series has become awesome to watch from the beginning. Great job Eric and to camera man Brian for getting those awesome shots. 👍👍
Lots of people comment and criticize. I just wanted to say thanks for all the vids you guys make for us. You're entertaining and I learn a lot. This might not be a repair vid or meant to teach necessarily but seeing the thought process in problem solving still translates to repair. I really appreciate your videos, thank you.
Thank you very much for that. I really appreciate it.
Eric, please please please please please dial bore indicate your bell housing, you're going to break something at your power level and there's tons of videos on TH-cam that show how to do it, plus they have offset dowel pins for it, CRITICAL to your crankshaft end play, main bearings, and transmission/clutch operation and life.
Working as a flat rate tech is ALOT different than building a car. A lot more things to be super anal about than when bolting factory stuff to a factory car/engine/trans eta. Eric is a smart dude and I'm sure he will take note. As he himself said before starting this project, he will be learning with us.
Isn't this just a test fit for the mountings? I'm not disagreeing with you, I'm just a DIY guy but I thought this wasn't a final install. Is indicating the the housing something you would have to do during the fitting?
View my comments to Eric
Comments he is referring to: th-cam.com/video/xdubsr2dSNg/w-d-xo.html&lc=z23czfzjitr5dtkou04t1aokgjihmcdandszz5ogglzebk0h00410
Peter she
I've learned so much from you & chrisfix watching your videos is like school for me. my current job I'm trying to remove 14 year old plugs, wires & oxygen sensors from a Monte carlo. the threads have broke on 1 plug so far do to rust so now I'm waiting for harbor freight to open so I can get easy out. but seriously I now have about 15 customers whose cars I fix thanx to you & chris
LOL, "I been doing a lot of lubrication over the years.."
I love that you cover all of the trial and error involved with automotive work. So many channels show the procedures in an ideal scenario, which rarely play out, especially for the less experienced.
For example, I had to abort an otherwise routine oil change today on my aunt's accord due to some cretin over tightening the drain plug without a washer in order to prevent a leak.
Eric when watching this i understand that you are excited but whatever you do, don't rush it because i watch this i feel that you are trying to get it done as fast as possible. Don't cut corners and take your time. I want you to be happy with the final product of your work. all the best my friend.
My tko 600 instructions say warranty void if you don't use a dial indicator to locate bellhousing centerline. I have done 2 of them and both were out of spec. It is super easy to do.
kubota3010 during test fit or final instalation?
test fit of bell housing
0:38 Take it away, Eric!
3:21 Consult with the destructions
29:11 "this weld sticks out just a little bit too much" ... well it does not really look like a weld, does it? :D
I drag through every week waiting to see new videos :)
From the 27 years in business, I have not yet owned one of those saws, those things are GREAT! Nice video with a little funny segment on 'THE GRIND", that was comedy gold!!
Astral Auto Repairs Professionally, I got my start in car audio install, the air saw was friggen god send for dash work and carried it's way over to my career in Class 8 truck repair...15 years into it and I still love it! I just wish somebody can come along with a quiet solution...
Hey Mike, thanks for that plug on the saw. I have been in so many situations where this would have taken up to an hour off the time. So you are saying to use some ear protection when using this saw?
Astral Auto Repairs there are electric models, just the ones I've seen are not as good.
Eric the Fairmont project is looking sick can't wait to see you test drive it
great video. just goes to show that as long as you have the time, patients, problem solving skills and knowledge you can do do pretty much whatever you want with a car
"And now we grind. Uhn, uhn, uhn." HA! I found myself saying "please don't do that again" out loud as if you would have heard me. Haha!
When bolting a trans to a engine it was made for from the factory, no worries. But with almost every part of your power train and driveline being custom and from multiple manufactures , I would be VERY concerned over the mating of the imput shaft to crank. The shaft has to be PERFECTLY inline with the crank, or boom...
I would'nt have bothered with smacking the shifter off the trans. Use a putty knife, the blade is thin and flexible enough to be able to cut thru the sealant. I use a putty knife to remove engine oil pans that are sealed to the block with the rtv that the auto companies use. Putting grease on the tob makes me twitch, as i don't like the possibility that the grease could find its way into the clutch. The tob has a roller bearing in it to allow the bearing to spin w/o damaging the fingers. The input shaft sleeve, though, i apply a very light film so that the tob can ride on it w/o binding. Otherwise, good video, Eric. Btw, that sawzall is a timesaver. I used to use my die grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut cat. converters off of exhaust systems, that would take a long time, the sawzall takes just a minute or two to cut thru the pipes (I used to work in the bodyshop, and would have to replace the exhaust systems on cars that got hit from the back and mangled them. Have to take the cats off of the old exhaust systems and send back as cores).
"I had a couple of extra washers, and threw 'em on the floor. I thought they looked better there." lol Eric
awesome video Eric. Keep on building. Ready to see it running, and keep it a sleeper even though it is a screamer
Part 10,000 installing the lug nuts then remove them to replace them with the intergolatic space nuts.... lol sorry Eric gotta give you shit man haha
It's true though. ;)
take your time when you drill. and remember you can always weld the hole back up. and grind down and redrill. cause drilling bigger holes on the bracket plate makes it so the bolts can putt them- selves through the hole. under tigh torking high throttle application. And not to menchen all the damage it will casue up front on the motor mounts and brackets. if i where you weld the holes back up and re do it. and dont forget to grind or sand blast the black paint away so the weld will stick. you will thank yourself later. cause if you do not redo the holes you will kick yourself in the ass later on after the bolts pull themselves out while you are going down the quarter mile while you'r motor and transmission are draggimg on the asphalt while the tow truck is pulling the fairmont back to your spot. 1 day of redoing is a hell of a lot better than looking like a fool on the race track! and the brackets that you drilled out bigger throw them away and replace them with ones that have more holding surface. I'am not trying ro piss you off but I see that trans bracket pulling it self through the frame and damaging or twisting the frame and probabley busting a few body mounts while it is under power.
Excellent trans. fit Eric, We hope it stands up to the torque your going to hand out to it. I 'm hopin your going to video the first run !!. TTFN. PS.Brian nice work too .
I'm only 15 and I've learned a lot from this channel thanks so much
Happy to have you watching. Thanks for the comment.
You didn't tighten those two bolts in the middle of the rear cross member! Lol great video.
quick question,,, could you have flipped the crossmember around and made it fit?
Jack Kyte base of the transmission is too bulky for a rotation. I thought about that too till I noticed the bottom of the transmission hanging there in the way.
i was thinking that too but was wondering if eric tried it
Been waiting all week for this
One ring to rule them all, deez nuts so many dank memes ❤️eric
Concerning the clutch pivot point bolt. I had to take mine out and install a longer bolt. Had to take my tko600 about 5 times to finally get it right. It was no fun without a lift.
That low profile drill is awesome - it spins a bit fast for metal drilling though lol.
When Eric popped that bolt out of the trannie mount with his hand and it flew towards the camera I literally ducked. Thanks for the immersive videos Eric! LOL
Make sure you tighten the bolts on the trans cross member on final assembly, Eric. I forgot when I put a T5 in my '93 Falcon. It makes a really bad knocking noise :)
Super impressed with the range of tools you have man
awesome eric...9.56pm from Papua New Guinea
Note your feet location in a Fairmont negates the need for a blow proof bell housing... And this thing turned into a massive money pit fast.
And don't forget to replace the polyurethane mount!! every single "Episode" is amazing!! EXCELLENT work!!
Yea, I'm looking into that now.
Aw man I was getting into this video series Eric, I wish you would have made a part 3 to show where you cut the hole in the floor and see how that bad boy performs!
I can't wait to see the Fairmont run! Got to love the sound of a turbo
Even with these long videos I don't want them to end, I could probably watch this build all the way through at once lol! great content as always! and almost at 1M subs! maybe the Fairmont unveiling for 1M...?
Stayed up all night for this....i am a Bum
You're in good company. Me too. ;)
hey Eric was wandering about 4wd cars that have fuel tanks with two sides and a fuel pump on 1 side wanted to know how the rest of fuel gets across to the pump to be sent to the motor e.g subaru mitsu evolution audi quattros and whatever else or even rwd where the drive shafts and the diff passes through the tank halves
Use a good clamp and get your driveline angle then tack them on double check then weld them on
wanted to say thanks for all the educational videos, been a while since i have had a chance to watch any of your vids. See ya next time you come through TSA. have a good one.
Been waiting for you to do a video on the TKO. Getting ready to do the same install on a 69 mustang this is going to be a reference video for sure. Thanks Eric and keep up the good work man.
Happy to help. good luck with the Mustang. That's one of my favorite years.
Eric I might be wrong but I believe you installed the transmission crossmember mounting brackets upside down. I might be wrong but I'm pretty sure the flat side goes towards the floor and the tapered sides face down. That way the weight is pushing down on the tallest part of the taper not pulling down on it. And I believe that would also raise the rear of the transmission some.
Actually I checked the angles on the engine and their perfect. Better not mess with success. Thanks for the input.
1:31 Deeeeez nuts!
Gotem!
Cracking video, as always Eric
New Trans + New Bellhousing = New Driveshaft
would be great to see your side in placing good driveline/rear end working angle for the driveshaft!!
It's be nice to find an electric version of that saw for those of us who don't have a compressor that can drive anything larger than a tire chuck.
Try putting the tranny in 1st gear and inset a yoke the tail shaft and you can turn it to help line up the splines on the input shaft. It usually makes it a little easier.
Astro Pneumatic Saw - good buy for $65.00 - saved a lot of time
Great job Eric, I like your style. I declined the use of a steel bell housing (was not keen on the weight) on my Daytona Coupe since it was n/a unlike your boosted motor. Great video!
Honestly, i prefer ChrisFix's vids for general repair and maintenance, but i love your fairmont/install vids far more.
Can't wait to see the results
Ditto on dial in the bell housing get off set dowels next day order a couple of off set sizes there cheaper than a new trans especially if you use a roller bearing in crank end to nose shaft
Hello Eric, Have been watching you for a long time. I love the show. I am also a qualified Mechanic (technician) this will be my 26th year. Just a idea. With the standard transmission body mounts why don't you just drill out the spot welds and remove the complete mount. I know you can come back and do it later, but it would make it look a lot cleaner and no later cuts or swearing later on. Hope all is well Cheers from Queensland Australia.
Mark Thomas.
edals90 . G,Day.
At the time it would have meant drilling into the carpet and I didn't want to do that. Thanks for the tip.
That saw he used is the ticket when a sawzall is too large and violent.
Hot rodding: turning grandma's grocery getter into a rip roaring beast!
10:48 a nice, satisfying pop :)
Nice job lubing that shaft Eric lol
Hey Eric! You may have covered this in another video, if so I apologize. You have mentioned you want the Fairmont to be a sleeper of sorts. What is your take on electronic header cutaways for those moments you wish to boost your get up and go ability?
@23:22 I'LL NEVER BE TURNED ON BY TWERKING EVER AGAIN. THANKS DUDE
You're welcome.
like always Eric, wonderful video thank you.
luckily it's 10am in Ireland so always perfect timing :)
your still mounting the trans with urethane bushings though. the red ones on each end of the cross member.
Eric was that a deep cut or red paint/grease....looked nasty!! great video
Noticed you didn't seem to have a roller pilot bearing in the crank, but just a bushing???
You should make the FoxBody a budget drag build!
no crush tubes in the rails ? might be a good idea ........ they work loose with high HP
When I went back and removed everything for paint, I did a better install with better washers including lock washers. I'll keep an eye on it though.
If you make bigger plates for the outside, and distribute the load over a larger area of the metal, you should be fine. Specially if you make the plates extend from top to bottom and a couple inches either side. This is a no weld solution. Sleeves need to be welded, and once you have the welder out, might as well box in the area and weld the mounts on, no bolts or sleeves needed. Sleeves are for nerds.
Eric why not to make custom transmision support to fit frame mounts instead of cuting and drilling frame?
watching a video of Eric the car guy putting lube on his shaft and then saying " Oh that felt wrong " haha!
almost looks like you could 180 the trans mount and it would fit old brackets.
Eric looking at them mounts for the trans it looks as if you put them upside down and like there is suppose to be 2 bolts threw the Flore as well?
Brother.... you need yaself a plasma cutter. However, the saw worked great and fast. Carry on!
An Australian 79 Fairmont looks really reallly different from American fairmonts. Sweet project anyways.
awesome project sir!
relief towards the end....poly mount!
That thing is looking sweeet!!!
Even tho I haven't even watched the full video
what was that device you used to create an indentation in the metal prior to drilling? Never seen that type of tool used before.
Man, Eric you're starting to drill holes and mount brackets like me. That may not be a good thing....
looking good keep up the good work
"I'm just going to throw that one on the floor..." lol
everything looked good until you drilled through the unibody and didn't sleeve the inside of it. you will end up with problems because of this, you have to sleeve the inside of the unibody because it's just sheet metal that you just created a huge week spot in
That's been mentioned a few times. I might go back and put some sleeves in at a later time. Thanks for your input.
Eric, did you use a hyd clutch system? If so which one? Is it in one of the videos?
The punch. I have seen this punch before on other videos, other channels. I work in wood and that punch seems to be the ticket. Often in wood working with real hard hardwoods the punch will skate when I make my little tap with the hammer, then it can be a small problem. I would like to know what the punch is called so I can get me one. Thanks.
www.jbtoolsales.com/lisle-30280-automatic-center-punch-5-1-2-long#oid=1002_1
Are the cross member mounting brackets also Stiffler brand?
Eric, thanks for the videos!
Did you entertain driveline hydramax option?
Hey Eric.
When you want to finish this project? We are waiting to watch first run videos.
Very nice, that is going to be a fast car when you get it all done. I'm just curious, what kind of center punch did you use there?
www.jbtoolsales.com/lisle-30280-automatic-center-punch-5-1-2-long#oid=1002_1
Thanks
I don't want to be negative but is that large transmission mounts upside down?
sneaking suspicion that maybe they were 5/8 and 1/2 instead of 16mm and 13mm
Cool, it's coming along.
I'm betting he could have just rotated the trans cross member and it would have fit in the old mount
The ending is what I was talking about in respect to problems with the overall narrative for this video series. You just showed a successful install of the transmission, then you end the video with telling us it had to come out again for "other stuff". It makes me really want to know what that "other stuff" was! A lot of this build seems to be one way for the camera and another way for the actual build, which kinda sucks for a viewer that is used to working on cars.
The best way to keep up on the 'actual' build is by reading my monthly newsletters. In fact, this months, which I'm writing after these comments, is chuck full of the work I've been doing on the car. www.ericthecarguy.com/blog
Thanks Eric, I will check those out! I'm starting to see just how much time you must put into this as a whole considering TH-cam, travel, FIF, blog, website etc. You must not have a lot of free time!
Eric, when do you work on the rearend? Its my favorite part.
thinking about actually going to school & getting certified
Did you use your t5 shirt throw shifter and linkage or did you need new stuff
Are there advantages to use carbureted engines vs direct injected engines?
Eric do you need spacers in the frame ware the bolts for the cross member go through it? so frame will not crush on hard pull? Just a thought
PS I like the fairmount vids.
I think I'll be OK for the crossbrace.