I gotta tell you Eric, at of all the car building channel's I watch,subscribed to yours is the best just on a stand alone fact you cracked me up and it's always a fun day when your working all day,week,month with a guy as rare as you with your humor and a very talented way to simplify what the goal is at hand. You my good sir are a VERY RARE BREED of mechanics,techs, and now as a car builder,ect. Guy's like you kept me from quitting at a shop/company because it is always a blast to learn and work with once again fellas like yourselves. NOTE TO ANYBODY WHO HAS A GUY LIKE ERIC AT THE SHOP YOU WORK AT WITH THE NATURAL GIFT OF MAKING WORK FUNNY AND A BLAST ARE TRULY LUCKY. You fellas know what I mean because the days fly buy with outstanding gents like Eric.
I learned alot from Fairmont videos. Especially Frische videos of engine ( main bearings, painting, sealing, gaskets ). Im building golf mk2 1988 and this helps me a lot. Thank you Eric.
love arriving at the office on Monday morning to a new ETGC video... The constant evolution of the build is fascinating yet frustrating, though part of me never wants the Fairmont video series to ever end...
Thanks for this series of vids on the fairmont...I have a 90LX I am about to begin tearing into and these videos are super valuable...thanks and keep it up!
Erick and steady hand Brian, did a fine job. It was amusing my thoughts when you were shaking Peak-a-chu to put music to that clanking noise. You guys rock. Stay Dirty !!.
I do not doubt that for a second...Me personally, I would eliminate the bumperettes on the front bumper(those things are fugly) LOLSuicide doors would be cool too, haha
Enjoyed this vid. I've installed those control arms on my Fox Mustang. I'm about to upgrade to the MM heavy duty ones with the metal bushing on both ends. Hard launches will destroy those poly bushings. Watched your vid to see if there was a better way and I learned some stuff. FYI - I used a come-along to pull the axle towards the front of the car to get the rear bolt holes to line up. Learned that trick from my uncle who was an ASE Master Tech. Worked like a charm.
Hey Eric, another awesome video as usual! Just so you know, when using poly bushing it is unnecessary to torque the control arm bolts with the car on the ground. Pre-load on poly bushings doesn't accelerate their wear like it does with rubber bushings.
I feel your pain on getting those lower fasteners through the holes. Major pain in the ass. Especially once the Panhard Bar is installed. The diff won’t want to budge at all. I’ve been there eric.
TVH used that on my daughter's bf's Chevy 4x4 when the spring center pin broke on one side and the axle slid back about eight inches on the spring. we couldn't push the axle back into position to get it back in the axle pad after replacing the center spring bolt (we were forced to do this in a grocery store parking lot plus fighting a cheap 8inch lift block) used a come along, got new u bolts in and job done. :)
Glad to see that even the most experience mechanic will have problems with the very last damn screw / bolt! And not only that, but ends up taking about the same steps of frustration to get it. lol! Been watching your videos for a while now. I hope you are able to do one of valve adjustments on an engine like a 2ZZ-GE where it has shims on the valve stems but also a lift lobe which seems to be a pain to a "novice" to attempt to do.
I think you may have made a mistake. The front polly bushings are designed to spin within the tube, hence the lube but the rear bushings look to be captive bushings. If they are captive bushings they do not spin in the tube and act as part of the suspension therefore are only supposed to be torqued at ride height so as not to preload the bushing which is what would happen if they were torqued while on the lift and then dropped onto the ground. The preload may cause premature failure of the bushings. Just FYI
Hey Eric, great parts, great video.... I think it would be to your benefit to put a cap or plug over those coil spring adjusters so debris doesn't plug up the hole or damage anything... maybe I'm a fanatic, but sounds like good advice to me ! lol.... I'm so anxious to see Oliver run and take a corner!
Might also help to roll the car back and forth so the tires won't bind on the ground. As you lower the car the wheels may want to have more negative camber but they won't slip against the ground with the car sitting still.
I really like the ability to adjust the compression of the springs and possibly change the firmness of the ride, more/less compressed springs must have a different response. I know that some springs arnt too linear. The best part was the dancing :-D.
Torquing on the ground doesn't matter for a polyurethane bush. A metalastic bush with rubber bonded to the metal will be in torsion as the control arm pivots and therefore needs to be torqued in the resting position, but a poly bush just rotates.
Hey Eric! Polyurethane bushings don't typically need to be torqued on the ground because they can typically rotate freely in place. Therefore they shouldn't bind and don't need to be torqued on the ground.
torque reaction on hard acceleration is going to twist the body of the car and try to lift the left front and right rear tires. so its ok to have a bit of extra weight on the right rear.
That's TOO weird,Eric! Torque the suspension AFTER the suspension has settled. I'm also curious as to the spring RATE of the rear coils. I'm guessing around 400 #,each. The pan hard bar is NOT rubber mounted/bushed? HEIM? It will be a noisy ride. Sorry. Street race car. Solid,but not a very pleasant daily driver. Been there. Your choice. Dave in Seattle.
when go to align it, make sure you add weights to the drivers side equal to your weight. this way you will track straight at the strip. Guess you know this already.
Hey Eric, can you tell me the name & part number of the microphone you are using? That is really crystal clear, and I've always wanted to go wireless, thanks! Another question: Will the universal joints and driveshaft hold up to that much torque?
There's no such thing as a thread that won't back out without being somehow aided either by another locking screw on the side (The more damaging method) or a jam nut (the more expensive method). Especially in this case where the suspension makes constant motions on the thread. And a tight fit to the point where you can't turn it = threads that will eventually be destroyed, the best threads being those that have enough space to glide on their mating surface (inside thread) but not enough to give it slop. Applications exist for both extremes, but in this case, we're talking moving load, constantly changing with the quality of the road. So either a defective thinking or a defective product. Oddly enough a simple solution that wouldn't require the machining of a jam nut (which can be pricey + the receiver end) would be to just have a locking mechanism on the floating spring holder. Once you're done adjusting your position, you lock the thread with that holder and then the spring will hold it in place.
Depends on what the objective is. If the relationship between the axle center and body is to be maintained (spring height), such as when changing springs or suspension components, what Eric did was the preferred method and has minimal error variables. If the relationship between the ground and the body is to be maintained (stance) then measuring from the ground to the body is the preferred method, however there are many error variables in play with this method such as tire pressures, resting load tire height, axle center to ground etc.
Hey Eric, we need a follow-up video to show us the difference in the side to side movement. Wasn't that the reason for the change? Even if it didn't make much difference it looks awesome!
Well +EricTheCarGuy Torquing or tightening such parts on the ground is just because the sleeves in the rubberbushings are molded in. When you tighten them in air and put your car down, its allways twistet by the cars weight and they fail. In your case youve inserted the sleeves lose in the rubber. So they can turn, so it shoulnt be a problem. But Id rather with the car on the ground so the sleeve sets on the screw and cant move down when driving and ruin your track ;D
I suppose the ride height difference is just in manufacturing tolerances. I imagine it'd be hard (and expensive) to maintain symmetric specs on what you measured.
Next time working on the driver side raise the passenger side rear end on one side will make life easier and Prybar.. didn’t this easy on the floor lol
Eric, did you reinforce the torque box(s)? There are weld or bolted plate kits, a good idea for turbo application, although since your lateral movement will be controlled by a panhard rod, perhaps not as critical.
I saw a TH-cam on those arms by maximum motor sport they have other arms without the swaybar mounts and ones rated for six hundred plus hp those ones look to be the four hundred plus arms, you might want to swap them for the higher rated ones.
Having your car sitting lower in the rear, than in the front, or to say having the front higher in the rear, for drag racing, it will have better sixty foot time's.... I hope you'll try it on race day!
Hi Eric, I am pretty sure that you shouldn't torque the control arms while there is no load on the bushings. Reason for that is, that you already twist the bushings just by letting the car down to the ground, which might wear the a lot faster.. should be the same thing as for front control arms. Please let me know if I'm wrong with that. And btw as always. Great video!
The sleeves are floating inside the bushings. It's not an issue with that type of busing. If it was molded to the bushing then I would torque them on the ground.
Eric, what do you do with old parts that you replace in all of your other videos that are basically worth only scrap metal? Do you save them and scrap them? or...
Would these adjustable control arms be ideal for a car that has been lowered? I have a 2002 Ford Mustang that I have lowered 2 inches and I've been told I need adjustable control arms.
Eric, What would keep those ride height adjustments from working their way in or out over an extended period of time, simply from vibration I would think they would move. I would think there would be some sort of lock nut (not that there is any room for that.) just wanted your opinion FWIW
Yes as you'll see in future episodes. I had to to make the tires fit in the front. I also came up with some trick mounts to move the fenders as well. Check out my social media for details. Thanks for the comment.
Can't wait to see. I've got to do that to my s10 but I'm paranoid that it's going to cause a channel that will fill with dirt and cause it to rust out. Maybe pack it the area with grease?
Is there a reason why we didn't see you bounce the car between final ride height adjustments? That should be done so the suspension can return to its natural setting.
hey eric i have a question re the c clip axles. i know from watching other car related programs that if god forbid you snap an axle outboard of that clip the whole axle can come sliding out as a result they arnt actually allowed at alot of drag strips is this something that concerns you with your curruntbpower levels and potential?
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
This episode hit close to home for me - Hammers are the most important tool in my garage, regardless of what work I'm doing
Jason Young They solve 100 percent of computer issues as well.
I gotta tell you Eric, at of all the car building channel's I watch,subscribed to yours is the best just on a stand alone fact you cracked me up and it's always a fun day when your working all day,week,month with a guy as rare as you with your humor and a very talented way to simplify what the goal is at hand. You my good sir are a VERY RARE BREED of mechanics,techs, and now as a car builder,ect. Guy's like you kept me from quitting at a shop/company because it is always a blast to learn and work with once again fellas like yourselves. NOTE TO ANYBODY WHO HAS A GUY LIKE ERIC AT THE SHOP YOU WORK AT WITH THE NATURAL GIFT OF MAKING WORK FUNNY AND A BLAST ARE TRULY LUCKY. You fellas know what I mean because the days fly buy with outstanding gents like Eric.
Thank you very much for that comment. I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.
I learned alot from Fairmont videos. Especially Frische videos of engine ( main bearings, painting, sealing, gaskets ). Im building golf mk2 1988 and this helps me a lot. Thank you Eric.
Brings back the memories of doing something on my 92 Falcon's rear suspension every other week
love arriving at the office on Monday morning to a new ETGC video...
The constant evolution of the build is fascinating yet frustrating, though part of me never wants the Fairmont video series to ever end...
I really like the forethought Maximum Motorsports gave while designing the control arm to add a grease fitting for the perch threads.
So happy that I have found your line of videos on restoring a fox body as I am starting to restore my 89 mustang :D
Thanks for your comment and good luck with the build.
I was thinking the rear suspension on the fairmont was not up to the forces myself. Happy to see you beefing things up so no nasty failure happens
I bought the same lower control arms for my fox body and wanted to see what the install entailed. Great instructional video as always!!
I like how you put your hand behind your head while adjusting the spring perches lol
I was striking a pose.
Thanks for this series of vids on the fairmont...I have a 90LX I am about to begin tearing into and these videos are super valuable...thanks and keep it up!
Erick and steady hand Brian, did a fine job. It was amusing my thoughts when you were shaking Peak-a-chu to put music to that clanking noise. You guys rock. Stay Dirty !!.
i used to not be entirely fond of the yellow creme color many moons ago when you started this project, but damnit, it's really grown on me.
"I've no clue how to solve this problem" *applies brute force*
Trying to prevent or eliminate axle wind up, axle wrap, very clever Eric.
Yea, wait till you see the torque arm. It's totally bad ass.
I do not doubt that for a second...Me personally, I would eliminate the bumperettes on the front bumper(those things are fugly) LOLSuicide doors would be cool too, haha
16:05 - few things more satisfying than the click of a torque wrench...
Man been watching since the start of this build, good things take time ay!
Enjoyed this vid. I've installed those control arms on my Fox Mustang. I'm about to upgrade to the MM heavy duty ones with the metal bushing on both ends. Hard launches will destroy those poly bushings. Watched your vid to see if there was a better way and I learned some stuff. FYI - I used a come-along to pull the axle towards the front of the car to get the rear bolt holes to line up. Learned that trick from my uncle who was an ASE Master Tech. Worked like a charm.
Hey Eric, another awesome video as usual! Just so you know, when using poly bushing it is unnecessary to torque the control arm bolts with the car on the ground. Pre-load on poly bushings doesn't accelerate their wear like it does with rubber bushings.
@3:30 brought back a lot of fond memories...
this just convinced me to get adjustable vs non adjustable, Thanks Eric.....
I've been waiting all week for a new video :)
Those are some good looking components you installed. Having the adjustment is very helpful
"It's nice to know I have that option, just in case I wanna get freaky with it." lol I said that same thing when I found out about internet porn
alright! so ready for more Fairmont vids! thanks eric!
love those purple springs. great video quality all around eric!
Im glad Im not the only one who finds control arms to be a PITA!
I feel your pain on getting those lower fasteners through the holes. Major pain in the ass. Especially once the Panhard Bar is installed. The diff won’t want to budge at all. I’ve been there eric.
Eric the Fairmont is looking sweet😄👍
i enjoy all of your shows you seem like a stand-up guy
Come along or ratchet strap to pull axle forward. Would've saved some time and frustration maybe?
TVH used that on my daughter's bf's Chevy 4x4 when the spring center pin broke on one side and the axle slid back about eight inches on the spring. we couldn't push the axle back into position to get it back in the axle pad after replacing the center spring bolt (we were forced to do this in a grocery store parking lot plus fighting a cheap 8inch lift block) used a come along, got new u bolts in and job done. :)
+
dave1135 so you work on your daughters bf shit too.
dave1135 so you work on your daughters bf shit too.
Michael Potts hopefully the bf was at least involved in the fix.
Nice video. No demonstration of how much less side-to-side motion it results in, though?
I'm not done with the rear suspension videos yet.
Glad to see that even the most experience mechanic will have problems with the very last damn screw / bolt! And not only that, but ends up taking about the same steps of frustration to get it. lol!
Been watching your videos for a while now. I hope you are able to do one of valve adjustments on an engine like a 2ZZ-GE where it has shims on the valve stems but also a lift lobe which seems to be a pain to a "novice" to attempt to do.
Yea, I like to keep it real. Thanks for the comment.
I think you may have made a mistake. The front polly bushings are designed to spin within the tube, hence the lube but the rear bushings look to be captive bushings. If they are captive bushings they do not spin in the tube and act as part of the suspension therefore are only supposed to be torqued at ride height so as not to preload the bushing which is what would happen if they were torqued while on the lift and then dropped onto the ground. The preload may cause premature failure of the bushings. Just FYI
Hey Eric, great parts, great video.... I think it would be to your benefit to put a cap or plug over those coil spring adjusters so debris doesn't plug up the hole or damage anything... maybe I'm a fanatic, but sounds like good advice to me ! lol.... I'm so anxious to see Oliver run and take a corner!
Great video Eric and Brian keep up the good work btw Brian awesome stache
when eric is a rockin don't come a knocking
Might also help to roll the car back and forth so the tires won't bind on the ground. As you lower the car the wheels may want to have more negative camber but they won't slip against the ground with the car sitting still.
A big C-Clamp you could use like a press to get that resisting bolt in.
I really like the ability to adjust the compression of the springs and possibly change the firmness of the ride, more/less compressed springs must have a different response.
I know that some springs arnt too linear.
The best part was the dancing :-D.
The compression of the spring won't change, just it's relative position. This will effect ride height and nothing else. Yes, the dancing was fun.
Man i love this project! I just love how detailed these video's are, keep it up my man! Even though you're doing it al wrong Eric, i love it ;)
Torquing on the ground doesn't matter for a polyurethane bush.
A metalastic bush with rubber bonded to the metal will be in torsion as the control arm pivots and therefore needs to be torqued in the resting position, but a poly bush just rotates.
awesome install going to look into this for my mustang
I highly recommend it. Links in the description.
Hey Eric! Polyurethane bushings don't typically need to be torqued on the ground because they can typically rotate freely in place. Therefore they shouldn't bind and don't need to be torqued on the ground.
You're correct. I just didn't think of it at the time.
torque reaction on hard acceleration is going to twist the body of the car and try to lift the left front and right rear tires. so its ok to have a bit of extra weight on the right rear.
That's why I put the battery there. ;)
I love the click of a torque wrench.
#FAIRMONTFRIDAY!
That's TOO weird,Eric!
Torque the suspension AFTER the suspension has settled.
I'm also curious as to the spring RATE of the rear coils.
I'm guessing around 400 #,each.
The pan hard bar is NOT rubber mounted/bushed? HEIM?
It will be a noisy ride. Sorry.
Street race car. Solid,but not a very pleasant daily driver.
Been there.
Your choice.
Dave in Seattle.
Just looked at your subscribers, I had no idea you are this close to 1 million. I remember watching at 10k lol
when go to align it, make sure you add weights to the drivers side equal to your weight. this way you will track straight at the strip. Guess you know this already.
Hey Eric, can you tell me the name & part number of the microphone you are using? That is really crystal clear, and I've always wanted to go wireless, thanks!
Another question: Will the universal joints and driveshaft hold up to that much torque?
Sennheiser
Concerned- there's no *jam nut* on those spring adjusters. What say you, Car Guy?
HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP I noticed that too.
Maximum Motorsports makes them. They are to be trusted.
Guessing the snug fit of the threads and spring force will keep them from rotating.
WOW. Spokesperson? Employee? No company is above reproach with a product.
There's no such thing as a thread that won't back out without being somehow aided either by another locking screw on the side (The more damaging method) or a jam nut (the more expensive method). Especially in this case where the suspension makes constant motions on the thread.
And a tight fit to the point where you can't turn it = threads that will eventually be destroyed, the best threads being those that have enough space to glide on their mating surface (inside thread) but not enough to give it slop. Applications exist for both extremes, but in this case, we're talking moving load, constantly changing with the quality of the road.
So either a defective thinking or a defective product.
Oddly enough a simple solution that wouldn't require the machining of a jam nut (which can be pricey + the receiver end) would be to just have a locking mechanism on the floating spring holder. Once you're done adjusting your position, you lock the thread with that holder and then the spring will hold it in place.
But...but- they're made by *engineers at Maximum Motorsports !!!*
Eric that is a awesome looking torque wrench! Is that snap-on?
Yes.
you're supposed to measure from the rear fender to the floor to get a correct measurement . love your videos man keep them coming
I'll set everything up properly during final assembly. Thanks for the comment.
Depends on what the objective is.
If the relationship between the axle center and body is to be maintained (spring height), such as when changing springs or suspension components, what Eric did was the preferred method and has minimal error variables.
If the relationship between the ground and the body is to be maintained (stance) then measuring from the ground to the body is the preferred method, however there are many error variables in play with this method such as tire pressures, resting load tire height, axle center to ground etc.
4:10 Eric confirmed for the Ginyu force.
@ericthecarguy when you're adjusting the ride height and you put your arm behind your head XD
don't know if I really see how that went for you Eric 20:01 still awesome videos
Hey Eric, we need a follow-up video to show us the difference in the side to side movement. Wasn't that the reason for the change? Even if it didn't make much difference it looks awesome!
I'm not done with the rear suspension videos yet.
eric the dancing guy. So when are you going to start giving lessons?
Perhaps I should start another channel?
Eric, diid you forget to wobble it after the swap? Also - did you consider using scales to weigh your Oliver when adjusting springs?
Those latex gloves are killing me. Please let me send you a case of nitrile gloves.
I really don't like nitrile gloves, but thanks.
Those upper CA removed I think would have allowed the axle to position for easier lower CA alignment.
Just. Thank you.
Well +EricTheCarGuy
Torquing or tightening such parts on the ground is just because the sleeves in the rubberbushings are molded in. When you tighten them in air and put your car down, its allways twistet by the cars weight and they fail. In your case youve inserted the sleeves lose in the rubber. So they can turn, so it shoulnt be a problem. But Id rather with the car on the ground so the sleeve sets on the screw and cant move down when driving and ruin your track ;D
Awesome, thanks for your input.
I suppose the ride height difference is just in manufacturing tolerances. I imagine it'd be hard (and expensive) to maintain symmetric specs on what you measured.
Honestly I don't think the fenders are even. I'm going to reset everything measuring from the floor before I'm done.
Next time working on the driver side raise the passenger side rear end on one side will make life easier and Prybar.. didn’t this easy on the floor lol
Eric, did you reinforce the torque box(s)? There are weld or bolted plate kits, a good idea for turbo application, although since your lateral movement will be controlled by a panhard rod, perhaps not as critical.
I'm flattered you didn't see my welds. ;)
What are you going to do to protect the threads of the perch from correction?
Should have disconnected the front of the torque arm and used that as leverage to move the axle into place to get that lower control arm bolt in.
Nice vid, Eric! Soon all that will be left to do is replace the shell! ;)
I saw a TH-cam on those arms by maximum motor sport they have other arms without the swaybar mounts and ones rated for six hundred plus hp those ones look to be the four hundred plus arms, you might want to swap them for the higher rated ones.
"ouh she is slammed"✋😂😂😂😂🤣
Pokemon sponsored this episode.
Having your car sitting lower in the rear, than in the front, or to say having the front higher in the rear, for drag racing, it will have better sixty foot time's.... I hope you'll try it on race day!
Eric, what happened to your Grand Cherokee project you got! I don't recall seeing anything much happen with it.
I sold that almost a year ago now, just before I got the Integra.
Hi Eric,
I am pretty sure that you shouldn't torque the control arms while there is no load on the bushings. Reason for that is, that you already twist the bushings just by letting the car down to the ground, which might wear the a lot faster..
should be the same thing as for front control arms.
Please let me know if I'm wrong with that. And btw as always. Great video!
The sleeves are floating inside the bushings. It's not an issue with that type of busing. If it was molded to the bushing then I would torque them on the ground.
Oh ok.. I get it. :)
Eric- I know I've seen it done- is it possible to put an air chuck on that trans jack?
Only on jacks that are designed to be pneumatic as far as I know.
Is there any way to lock those coil spring things down? Seems like to me that they might turn down over time due to vibration.
Eric, what do you do with old parts that you replace in all of your other videos that are basically worth only scrap metal? Do you save them and scrap them? or...
You'll find out soon enough. ;)
Would these adjustable control arms be ideal for a car that has been lowered? I have a 2002 Ford Mustang that I have lowered 2 inches and I've been told I need adjustable control arms.
Is that a patch of rust under the paint? I was under the impression that outside of some dings the body was ok. Bummer if it is.
It's not too bad. Won't effect how the car drives at all.
Yes!
gave this video a like as soon as I saw the majestic mating dance of the eric hahahahahahahaha
Eric, What would keep those ride height adjustments from working their way in or out over an extended period of time, simply from vibration I would think they would move. I would think there would be some sort of lock nut (not that there is any room for that.) just wanted your opinion FWIW
MM assures me that none is necessary. I trust them.
Actually when on the ground it's easier to just get a buddy to push the entire rear end so the bolt lines up. Been there done that. lol
Wait did Eric just use a torque rench?
At least put a black zip tie in there lol!! Great video keep it up:)
another point you should include Eric is alot of this your doing isn't just foxbody it's for sn95 mustangs to
Eric are you sure your foor is 100% levelin each direction?
Pretty sure.
That torque wrench is a beaut. Haven't seen you use that baby since... well never... 😁
I guess you missed this and many other videos I've posted. ;) th-cam.com/video/P3Pb_eNLkQc/w-d-xo.html
Is there a way to lock those spring perches?
So that's what that clunking noise was, remember hearing that a few times back in the day.
Yea, I've found that the upper control arm mount bolts where different sizes. One had a lot of slop and indications that it was moving around.
I still think it would look more like a sleeper with some classic steelies instead of the cop rims. Will you be rolling the fender lip?
Yes as you'll see in future episodes. I had to to make the tires fit in the front. I also came up with some trick mounts to move the fenders as well. Check out my social media for details. Thanks for the comment.
Can't wait to see. I've got to do that to my s10 but I'm paranoid that it's going to cause a channel that will fill with dirt and cause it to rust out. Maybe pack it the area with grease?
>>>>>>>muito bom seu vídeo mesmo que nos não falamos a mesmo linguá mas eu vejo os detalhes , mas na mecânica a linguá e universal
Is there a reason why we didn't see you bounce the car between final ride height adjustments? That should be done so the suspension can return to its natural setting.
I haven't done any final adjustments yet. I still need to do the front suspension.
love this guy
Well, you gotta see how it looks all the way down when you have that as an option.
great video
I was hoping you were going to leave them spun all the way down hahaha
hey eric i have a question re the c clip axles. i know from watching other car related programs that if god forbid you snap an axle outboard of that clip the whole axle can come sliding out as a result they arnt actually allowed at alot of drag strips is this something that concerns you with your curruntbpower levels and potential?
If you watch the differential build I address that. Also, I'm not building a race car so much as a killer street car.