I hope you will continue making videos...I drained my coolant yesterday and changed my thermostat and my fan switch sensor...I could not have done it as smoothly had it not been for your video....I even got my coolant ALL BUBBLED OUT..Thanks for the video....a real help to all of us who are trying out there
I've found out over the years of bleeding air from these cooling systems, there's one thing I've learned to do after discovering it by accident: Have the front end jacked up or (like me) have the front end up on Rhino Ramps. This puts the neck of the radiator above the heater core and expedites the removal of air from the system more effectively (air rises) and with less time spent. After the thermostat opens and before the fans kick in, make sure level is full and put cap on halfway, then back off the ramps and run until fans kick on. Turn motor off and let cool down, add more coolant if necessary, Have overflow bottle at the level just like you did - MAX. Then make sure cap is on all the way and drive the vehicle (with the heater on) in your neighborhood for 15-20 minutes, with lots of stop-and-go type driving less than 40 mph. Then park the vehicle and allow to cool completely. Check overflow bottle and there will be a small amount missing that replaced any remaining air. The turning and stop-n-go driving has a way of getting rid of any remaining air that may have been in the system. If the vehicle has a thermostat that is stuck open, all the above may be a waste of time. You have a new subscriber. Your camera work and teaching style are enjoyable and interesting and make a boring topic more palatable. The timing belt and water pump video was you at your best-- seriously. Keep up the good work!
Perfectly done, great video. Details like the heater ignition phase. Thank you, my flush came out great, I didnt get the whole 1 plus gallons during the fill because of the legacy coolant in the jacket etc, least thats what I told myself.
What if both fans never go on off the idle alone? Ha it was taking forever so I decided to throttle it and finally the one fan closer to pass her side came on. Coolant was steaming too😬. I finally said ok that’s enough after awhile, never got both fans running. Cap was on like in this video but after that long still held pressure and coolant sprayed out🤦🏻♂️. Restarting process but not going to wait for both fans now. It’s also 38 degrees here in Chicago and it was a old start when beginning this little project for me.
Car showed that it was over heating with the check engine light and would not restart once the motor was hot. I fixed that by changing the coolant temp sensor. Since I drained the coolant to flush the system I went ahead and changed the thematic sender (next to the cts) and the fan switch and the thermostat. I can not get the car to show it’s not overheating now. I have only gotten about a gallon of antifreeze in the car. I don’t think all the air is out. Iv done everything on the video. Any idea what this could be or how to get the remaining air out. Also note I changed the thermo sender twice thinking it could be incorrectly calibrated. Went back with a genuine Honda part. Still same issue. Before I started all of this process the gauge itself on the dash showed normal operating temp and stayed centered.
my 01 crv lx is having an issue where when i go past 40 mph the temperature gauge starts to rise going past the 2 water waves/close to the red mark but when i bring the mph back to 40 or below the temperature goes back down and to the normal half way mark. My fans turn on but only when i turn the ac on. Are they suppose to come on by them selves and if they are is this an indicator that my fan switch needs to be replaced or is it the fans? Checked for a blown head gasket and the test came out negative, the top hose is hot and the lower one is cool. Thats suppose to indicate that my thermostat works right? I think my water pump does work but what would be a symptom if it didn't work? My crv is at 147k miles. Im confused as to why my crv just started to randomly rise on the temperature gauge... Any help is appreciated
Thanks for the comment.. I’m no expert but I would start with a simple fix like bleeding your cooling system out first.. sometimes that’s the issue. Your fans should turn on automatically whenever your engine reaches a certain temperature. Also ask when is the last time cooling system parts have been replaced. These parts get corroded over time. Best time to check these components are when your changing coolant and bleeding it out. Check hoses, fan switch, thermostat for sure( chances are it’s cracked or a little bit open), check housing as well and cooling sensors. Anyway hope this info will help you. Good luck and keep me posted, let me know when you fix it.
@@h0melyfe792 thanks for the respone. Im going to do an overhaul of cooling parts and also the timing belt so ill keep you posted afterwards if it went away
I have overheating issues. I have... Changed coolant, thermostat, switch near thermostat, air filter, radiator cap. Now am bleeding air watching video... The fans came on but have not went off to come on again. Am I good? Anyway?
Quick question, As I was filling in coolant the radiator topped off at about 2 quarts which is half a gallon, and it doesn’t seem to go down anymore, when I drained the coolant that it had before it only had about 2 quarts as well, what could be the possible problem? I’m thinking probably clogged radiator or too much air in the system ? Or should I have drained the lower radiator hose as well?
Hi. Is it normal that my engine is havinh small amount of smoke while waiting for the fan to go on twice? I'm afraid that it might go wrong so I turned off the engine first and ask the question before i proceed. I hope you could respond quick sir
Daddy KuysTV.. sorry I was asleep. I didn’t recall the engine smoking every time I change the cooling system. Did you happen to clean around the engine outside? Cause sometimes it will produce light smoke, specially if you get some liquid on the manifold.. when it gets hot.. it evaporates
Daddy KuysTV.. another possibility if you opened the drain bolt on the engine block. Then The coolant that spilled out will cause smoke/mist when the engine gets hot. Eventually goes away as well.
If coolant is leaking out of where the radiator cap is supposed to go, yes. Coolant will burn off on the radiator fins when it gets hot enough. If it is coming from around the radiator, don't worry.
Made absolutely ZERO sense to put key in the ignition just to turn the heater control knob. Totally dumb ! Plus explain why the car gets run with radiator cap half off : to bleed air out if system. Any BOOB can post on TH-cam. Damm shame!
I hope you will continue making videos...I drained my coolant yesterday and changed my thermostat and my fan switch sensor...I could not have done it as smoothly had it not been for your video....I even got my coolant ALL BUBBLED OUT..Thanks for the video....a real help to all of us who are trying out there
I got to do this myself today. No dudes in my family will do it for me. I will give it a go. Thanks for posting this. 🙏
You got this!! 💪💪💪
I did it! Lol I still got to check it again. Not much bubbles came out of mine. But thank u for posting. Now I gotta look up more videos 👍🤙
Used your video yesterday man, had issues with my car overheating. Fixed it! Thanks man
I've found out over the years of bleeding air from these cooling systems, there's one thing I've learned to do after discovering it by accident: Have the front end jacked up or (like me) have the front end up on Rhino Ramps. This puts the neck of the radiator above the heater core and expedites the removal of air from the system more effectively (air rises) and with less time spent. After the thermostat opens and before the fans kick in, make sure level is full and put cap on halfway, then back off the ramps and run until fans kick on. Turn motor off and let cool down, add more coolant if necessary, Have overflow bottle at the level just like you did - MAX. Then make sure cap is on all the way and drive the vehicle (with the heater on) in your neighborhood for 15-20 minutes, with lots of stop-and-go type driving less than 40 mph. Then park the vehicle and allow to cool completely. Check overflow bottle and there will be a small amount missing that replaced any remaining air. The turning and stop-n-go driving has a way of getting rid of any remaining air that may have been in the system. If the vehicle has a thermostat that is stuck open, all the above may be a waste of time.
You have a new subscriber. Your camera work and teaching style are enjoyable and interesting and make a boring topic more palatable. The timing belt and water pump video was you at your best-- seriously. Keep up the good work!
Keith Nettles.. cool man! I’ll try it next time! Thanks.
I followed your video and it was perfect. Another good job done, saved money thanks to you.
Perfectly done, great video. Details like the heater ignition phase. Thank you, my flush came out great, I didnt get the whole 1 plus gallons during the fill because of the legacy coolant in the jacket etc, least thats what I told myself.
hi, are you using 1.1 bar for radiator cap?
What if both fans never go on off the idle alone? Ha it was taking forever so I decided to throttle it and finally the one fan closer to pass her side came on. Coolant was steaming too😬. I finally said ok that’s enough after awhile, never got both fans running. Cap was on like in this video but after that long still held pressure and coolant sprayed out🤦🏻♂️. Restarting process but not going to wait for both fans now. It’s also 38 degrees here in Chicago and it was a old start when beginning this little project for me.
Car showed that it was over heating with the check engine light and would not restart once the motor was hot.
I fixed that by changing the coolant temp sensor.
Since I drained the coolant to flush the system I went ahead and changed the thematic sender (next to the cts) and the fan switch and the thermostat.
I can not get the car to show it’s not overheating now. I have only gotten about a gallon of antifreeze in the car. I don’t think all the air is out. Iv done everything on the video. Any idea what this could be or how to get the remaining air out.
Also note I changed the thermo sender twice thinking it could be incorrectly calibrated. Went back with a genuine Honda part. Still same issue.
Before I started all of this process the gauge itself on the dash showed normal operating temp and stayed centered.
my 01 crv lx is having an issue where when i go past 40 mph the temperature gauge starts to rise going past the 2 water waves/close to the red mark but when i bring the mph back to 40 or below the temperature goes back down and to the normal half way mark. My fans turn on but only when i turn the ac on. Are they suppose to come on by them selves and if they are is this an indicator that my fan switch needs to be replaced or is it the fans? Checked for a blown head gasket and the test came out negative, the top hose is hot and the lower one is cool. Thats suppose to indicate that my thermostat works right? I think my water pump does work but what would be a symptom if it didn't work? My crv is at 147k miles. Im confused as to why my crv just started to randomly rise on the temperature gauge... Any help is appreciated
Thanks for the comment.. I’m no expert but I would start with a simple fix like bleeding your cooling system out first.. sometimes that’s the issue. Your fans should turn on automatically whenever your engine reaches a certain temperature. Also ask when is the last time cooling system parts have been replaced. These parts get corroded over time. Best time to check these components are when your changing coolant and bleeding it out. Check hoses, fan switch, thermostat for sure( chances are it’s cracked or a little bit open), check housing as well and cooling sensors. Anyway hope this info will help you. Good luck and keep me posted, let me know when you fix it.
@@h0melyfe792 thanks for the respone. Im going to do an overhaul of cooling parts and also the timing belt so ill keep you posted afterwards if it went away
I have overheating issues. I have...
Changed coolant, thermostat, switch near thermostat, air filter, radiator cap. Now am bleeding air watching video...
The fans came on but have not went off to come on again. Am I good? Anyway?
I changed the water pump first
Quick question, As I was filling in coolant the radiator topped off at about 2 quarts which is half a gallon, and it doesn’t seem to go down anymore, when I drained the coolant that it had before it only had about 2 quarts as well, what could be the possible problem? I’m thinking probably clogged radiator or too much air in the system ? Or should I have drained the lower radiator hose as well?
Israel Zelocuatecatl.. later on when you start the vehicle.. it will suck it down.. then check levels again then.. fill if necessary.
Nice and simple-thanks man!
Damn that engine sounds ruff
Nice video!can I ask you if i must loose the bolt at 1:15 or can i forget it w/out any issue?Sorry for my english and tks in advance for any answers!
ambroktm. No you don’t have to remove that bolt. Thanks for watching.
Thanks! I appreciate it!!!
am2boni... np thanks for watching!
Hi. Is it normal that my engine is havinh small amount of smoke while waiting for the fan to go on twice? I'm afraid that it might go wrong so I turned off the engine first and ask the question before i proceed. I hope you could respond quick sir
Daddy KuysTV.. sorry I was asleep. I didn’t recall the engine smoking every time I change the cooling system. Did you happen to clean around the engine outside? Cause sometimes it will produce light smoke, specially if you get some liquid on the manifold.. when it gets hot.. it evaporates
Daddy KuysTV.. or maybe you spilled some coolant around the engine or manifold.. then yes you might see some smoke/mist. But eventually disappear.
Daddy KuysTV.. another possibility if you opened the drain bolt on the engine block. Then The coolant that spilled out will cause smoke/mist when the engine gets hot. Eventually goes away as well.
If coolant is leaking out of where the radiator cap is supposed to go, yes. Coolant will burn off on the radiator fins when it gets hot enough. If it is coming from around the radiator, don't worry.
How much coolant do you need? I have the same model. I just bought 3L and guessing that this is not enough, correct?
Hi.. hmm I used 1 gallon +.. so you will most likely need 4liters.. about 1.06 gallons. But it will also depends on how much coolant you removed.
Bro u need some Lucas! That crank up sounds like an old Datsun truck # Nissan
I’ll give a shot bro! Lol. But for some reason the sound here doesn’t equal the sound in real life. It’s distorted for some reason.
So I'll need two bottles of coolant for the flush?
Yeah I used whole bottle and some. Then have extra for later on or if I need to add
More.
17 mins in and no fans movement at all 😕
Oh dang!! I hope it turned on!
Fast idle to speed up the process. Hold it at around 1500rpm like at the end and it'll warm up quicker
E
Made absolutely ZERO sense to put key in the ignition just to turn the heater control knob. Totally dumb ! Plus explain why the car gets run with radiator cap half off : to bleed air out if system. Any BOOB can post on TH-cam. Damm shame!