Broken Bolt Removal in Jeep Cylinder Head
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- We'll remove a broken and seized bolt from a Jeep 2.5L cylinder head. #brokenbolt #knockerloose #threadrepair #crcauto
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We miss broken bolt videos. Just so you know…
This ⬆️
You can watch also Eric O. From "south main auto " he does great stuff in the past videos
And I lose patience with those who complain that he never does this anymore. He does a LOT of new things, which is exciting and cool, but he throws back to his roots and does these videos once in a while. They do get kinda repetitive though, which is why I like his new content just as much
@@fabricancustoms I guess it's rather the repair vibe. Back to good condition or even possible to use it again
Appreciate the help as usual. Nobody else Id rather use. I know the job will be done right!!
Thanks Phil! 👍🏻
You can get that bow in the center removed by placing a sheet of medium grit emery paper on a flat surface like a pane glass and working the head in a quater circular motion - with the center of the head as center and still - about 8 times then switching to fine grit about 2 - 3 times. Then turn it around and work the other end. The movement should be one way, lift and repeat, not to and fro. This should flatten the head and the gasket should make it as good as new.
@@mohabatkhanmalak1161 if this was something more than a basic Jeep engine or if it used a metal head gasket I would of taken further action. The Jeep came in running perfectly with no water, oil, or exhaust leaking thru the head gasket so I knew it would be ok.
Isn't your company's name "Heyman Motorsports Pensacola"? hah hah hah!
I would second that call. They had a pretty decent amount of warp they would tolerate. Plus the torque sequence starts in the center working outward which can correct a couple thousandths in itself and the gasket takes up the rest. Its not a high compression engine and you could time the vehicle with a calendar at the dragstrip. I would run it as it is. @@MayhemMotorsportsPensacola
My wife worked in the Oldsmobile engine factory for two years. I worked in the building that shared a wall with it. We had the same shift but our breaks were at different times. It was perfectly OK for me to visit her during my break. Near her station the raw head-casting entered the machining line. This was before 3-axis CNC machines such as Adam has. It was a 1,000 foot long line of machine tools, side-by-side. The flat Adam is measuring at 5:40 is the very first cut made. This is the Master Reference Surface, from which all other machining ops are referenced and indicated. The milling machine line was all automatic, with the blocks moved from one machine to another by primitive robots. Every machined surface you see in this head block was done, one-after-another, without human intervention. The Master Reference Surface can be identified by the fact that there is no bolt hole. It is entirely smooth, which is what the Master Reference Surface must be.
That’s interesting to read. Tx!
"primitive robots" a pic of robots wearing bearskins popped into my head 🤣
@@dave.of.the.forrest
🤣
@@dave.of.the.forrest I think I saw that once in National Geographic.
I have found if a head has 3 thousandths warp, go ahead and have it milled. When I have rebuilt my own engines, I always have the head and block milled. Start with a good flat surface.
The sound of thread peeling out is SO satisfying!!!!!
I love watching you remove broken bolts. The easy ones are always welcome but the toughies are the most interesting to watch and I expect the most satisfying when accomplished. Thanks for the educational videos!
Broke a bolt off last night in aluminum. Learned from you to stop and not try anything more. Took it to a machine shop and 20 minutes later I was on my way.
tea candles are what they use on forklifts and stuff give it a try you melt the wax with a torch and it gets in there better than penetrating oil spray
Adam, I see that you're becoming a member of the "Gray Beard Club" Welcome brother welcome!
The wife loves it
Not so fun when you join that club before 30 and the 'no hair on top' club at 24
@@theshop90I used to tell folks I didn’t mind my hair turning gray but I did mind when it turned loose.
My kids mentioned the grey ones for me few years back..i just told them, that i can’t help it, because i have to live with you 😂😂
@@theshop90 Lol, I've been going bald since 7th grade. I am now a member of the salt and curry beard. i joined about 6 years ago at 40.
The day in, day out job shop work, like this broken bolt, is where the magic is. I've seen Adam do maybe 5-10 of these, over the years. Some were easy, some way harder, but every one was a case where an experienced machinist saved somebody a big headache. There'll always be a place in the world for a local job shop.
Instead of "Hey Man" I usually get "can you Just ...."
Closely followed by “I got a really SIMPLE job…”
Just a little 5 minute job....
I'd do it myself but I don't have time
You make that look easy Adam, but the right tools are a must. I didn't even know they made a left hand drill bit LOL
You can even pick up cheap left-hand drills at Horror Fright. They come in a package with the E-Z-Outs.
@rollinrat4850 The cheap Harbor Freight kit that I have has a limited selection. I'm sure the manufacturers make them in all sorts of sizes, but I've never looked. Most of the kits start at 5/64.
What I have is LH bits and extractors that are marked:
Bit: 5/64 Extractor: #1 Screws #10 to 1/4 or M5-M6
Bit: 1/8 Extractor: #2 Screws 1/4 to 5/16 or M6-M8
Bit: 5/32 Extractor: #3 Screws 5/16 to 7/16 or M8-M11
Bit: 1/4 Extractor: #4 Screws 7/16 to 9/16 or M11-M14
Bit: 19/64 Extractor: #5 Screws 9/16 to 3/4 or M14-M19
You have to start with a center drill or spotting drill, then step up through these sizes one at a time until you are up to the size you need, and then run in the extractor. You also have to apply penetrant at least a half-hour before you start.
If you can't get the part on a mill, the easiest way to start the center is with a transfer punch that just barely fits the hole. But with a sharp eye and a steady hand, you can probably get it centered well enough.
Turning the extractors with power will be a bad day. Use a tap wrench on them. A lot of times you don't have to use the extractors because the cutting forces from the drill will unscrew the bolt.
I'm sure that Adam would tell you don't use this sh*t, call a real machinist and get the job done right. But sometimes half-arsed is good enough. I've pulled at least a few broken bolts with these. I think the smallest was a #12, but it looks as if they could do a #10.
Very satisfying to see you pulling the remaining bolt thread out with the needle nose pliers. Great video on broken bolts. Thanks Adam!
Wrong intake for that small block Chevrolet. He has a Vortec engine and the intake manifold bolts are at a different angle than the original Chevrolet heads. Or visa-versa.
Probably be more cost efficient to just buy the correct Vortec intake for his Vortec headed engine.
I've been there, elongated the 4 center holes to make it work, it works just fine, and they actually make an intake manifold to fit both designs with angled bosses for one or the other.
Always good when someone has the good sense to not mess with a broken bolt and turn it over to the professional bolt extracting man who will appreciate the lack of pecker tracks from someone screwing around with it, as Keith Fennner would say.
❤ Excellent surgical procedures to remove all of the broken bolt thread in 1 slinky piece.
I definitely enjoyed watching this episode.
The one piece of equipment that has never succeeded for me is an "Easy-Out. They would better be known as Difficult or Never Out. I found that drilling the bolt then hammering in the tang of a old or blunt file then using an adjustable wrench on the file, was far more likely to get the bolt/stud out.
Easy-out. That's definitely a misnomer.
Only type of these I’ve ever had success with were a blue point set. You effectively drill a pilot hole and hammer in a spline to use as a driver. Worked so well I had to remove the tool from the old stud with an angle grinder and a flap disc 😅
I’ve since done similar with metric spline bits from a socket bit set; as I didn’t own the blue point kit.
I've heard lots of people say that. I've never had much trouble with them. I have a wide variety of sizes and I find that putting the biggest extractor you can in, and tapping it with a hammer to get a bite before attempting to turn it makes a big difference. A little heat often helps too.
@@HomebrewHorsepower Yeah, once I have drilled a hole or cut a slot, I'll hit it with a torch before I try anything that might tear the thread in the parent material. Sometimes a couple of heat-cool cycles will move the thread enough to break it loose without doing anything else. The broken bolt I pulled yesterday had enough sticking out that I could cut a slot with a Dremel, and once it was hot it turned with a screwdriver. It froze again a time or two, but another shot of heat got it moving again. Once it was out a quarter-inch, I could gronk it around with a pair of Vise-Grips and it took about ten seconds after that.
Don't you just love how the "Hey man" customer always cleans up their stuff ?
Hey, you there, fifteen years from now who is looking for this exact video for their Jeep 2.5L issue. Hope you get it fixed! This guy's video is helpful.
I got the jeep up and running the same day!
15 years from now. Now THAT's some forward thinking. 😃
@@MayhemMotorsportsPensacola I am surprised that the intake/exhaust side of the head was straight enough to seal.
@@brettbuck7362 the header is not a single flange so it is able to contour to the head.
@@proberts34 I'd call it wishful thinking, but maybe it's going to be kept in a garage.
Hey Adam, for 4 cylinder cast iron head with pushrods maximum allowed out of flat is 4 thousands so this is on limit.
I would have this machined. It's a lot more work trying to fix a problem after assembling the motor again..
Yeah, but maybe the customer is on a budget
I work on computers and networks. You get "hay man" calls in my line of work as well.
And there are no "guaranteed to work" methods either.
From the dry thread you pulled out the knock er loose was a waste of money and time.
Thank you for posting this video. It inspired me to extract a broken bleeder from a brake caliper rather than buying a new one. "What would abom do?" Is my new motto :)
i love broken bolt removals and engines fixes so much. I just like seeing all the different ways you throw at it
Great example of how to remove a broken bolt. People always preach about welding a nut on but it's not always an option. Working in a tool room it's common for me to deal with 6-32 and 8-32 broken screws. Dealing with small fasteners best bet is to drill out to tap size. Thanks for the informative video.
And hope the broken screw is softer than the parent metal, and hope your drill doesn't walk.
@@Bob_Adkins
Yep that is usually the worst ones, steel bolt corroded to an aluminum housing. And drilling is only good with an end mill to clean it up. Even then it’s only 50% success rate.
These cast iron manifolds are easy cake to do, weld doesn’t stick to it.
@@Bob_Adkins I found that hardened bolts such as Allen head screws or bolts are easy to remove with just a punch and a hammer. Get it to turn and the come out easily.
Am I the only one who would love to see some kind of collab between Abom and Kurtis at Cutting Edge Engineering
You certainly aren't the only one that watches EVERY video of both...
Such satisfaction to know you nailed the center when you can peel the threads like that.
Lost book of the Bible -
"Verily I say unto ye, that on the 17th day God created gaskets, because metals subjected to confinement and much differentials in temperature while having varying stresses due to relative differences in coefficients of thermal expansion and contraction are going to warp at least a few thou, and stay that way."
This is why God gave us gaskets. It just makes the universe easier to live in.
@Abom79 I was expecting you to check the exhaust manifold for flatness too, just because 😏😉
They sell a correct intake with the proper bolt angles for that engine/heads. It seems like he is removing the TBI and putting a carb on it, which is backwards, but whatever. Jegs has them.
Yup, everyone has their pet method.
Best methodology is to learn them all so they're in your toolbox if you need them.
This. Sometimes circumstances will prevent the use of some methods, so getting comfortable with a variety is best.
Classic Abom. Enjoyed!
Good stuff. Dad videos would've been great.
Weld a washer first then nut to washer ,nobody knows this ,its always weld a nut ,weld a nut ,weld a nut,weld a nut
notice how dry the threads were after the penetrating oil was left for 24 hours.
I've worked on Jeeps and have faced this. Whatever you charged him is NOT ENOUGH..
The happiness of getting a head back without the bolt and threads cleaned up... Worth it!!
I'd be hesitant to go with 5 thou out of flat.
Also, you should get them to check the flatness of the block, because the out of flatness of both could combine to double that 5 thou.
Agreed. A bit much. Should be "easy" for an engine shop to deck on a boring mill. But if there's a budget and the owner is unwilling... :(
If the block is warped .005 the other way no further work is necessary. 😮😮
I believe my race motor head flatness limit was either two or three thou in any direction but that was with an MLS gasket. I imagine you can be a little further out with a composite gasket. If It wasn't leaking before, I doubt it would start leaking when reassembled.
@@ellieprice363 But if it's warped .005 the other way, that's .010.
@@BedsitBob Agreed, should be decked while you engine is apart.
19.37 I heard a toot. At first I thought it was me but I reversed the video and heard it again. 😉
Fun fact #1: 80% of work benches in the USA have jeep parts on them.
Fun fact #2: Cornpop was a bad dude.
AND…he ran with some bad boys.
I love that 'hey man' thing...
In the UK we have 'could you just...'
I love the way you leveled the head then accurately centered the hole. Being accurate wasn't so important providing that the left hand drill trick worked, but in the case that plan A did NOT work, it allowed you to continue drilling using the tap drill size.
Nice procedure. 👍
Absolutely a surgical thread removal...dayummm! Can feel the love you put into your work Adam.
The best procedure I use for broken bolt removal is to "hold your mouth right"
Any tips on chasing inner threads on 3" npt pipe ? Other than die grinder
Generally, cylinder heads are +/- .003 for V6s, and V8s are around +/- .002. But that's from the Chilton manual for my truck.
we always went by Fel-pro recommendations for head gasket sealing surfaces ... 1thou per cylinder, so, according to that, your 4thou should be right at the top end of warpage for a multi-layer metal head gasket from Fel-pro and I will add that I know we ran with worse when we were young and dumb! LOLOLOL :). Great Video! Love your attention to detail on jobs like this and not just pull the 'let er rip tater chip techniques'!
*ELI5 Abstract*
*Here's the explanation for a five-year-old:*
*The Problem:*
* A car part called a cylinder head had a broken bolt inside, stopping
the exhaust pipe from attaching properly.
* The car was making a loud noise and leaking because of this.
*The Machinist's Job:*
* The machinist is like a car doctor. He had to fix the broken bolt so
the car could work right again.
* He couldn't just pull the bolt out, it was stuck!
*Special Tools:*
* The machinist used a special machine, like a big drill, to carefully
make a hole in the broken bolt.
* He also used other tools to check if the car part was still flat
after the bolt was out.
*Fixing it:*
* The machinist was super careful to drill in the exact middle of the
broken bolt.
* He used special drills that spin backwards to try and loosen the
broken bolt.
* It took a bit of work, but finally the broken piece came out!
*Abstract*
This transcript describes a TH-cam video where a machinist helps a
friend remove a broken bolt from a Jeep cylinder head.
*Here's a breakdown of the key points:*
* *Identifying the Problem:* The video begins with the machinist
explaining the problem of a broken bolt preventing the customer's
exhaust manifold from being properly bolted down, causing a leak.
* *Avoiding Mistakes:* The machinist notes that the customer's friend
did the right thing by not attempting to extract the bolt
themselves, as breaking tools inside can make the job harder.
* *Preparation:* The machinist treated the bolt with penetrating oil
the night before.
* *Choosing Tools:* Rather than welding, the machinist opts to use a
milling machine for precise drilling and potential thread removal.
* *Setting Up:* The cylinder head is carefully secured to the milling
machine using angle plates and toe clamps.
* *Surface Inspection:* The machinist checks the cylinder head's gasket
surface with a test indicator and finds it acceptable despite some
minor unevenness.
* *Centering the Drill:* The machinist uses a 2-flute end mill to
locate the precise center of the broken bolt and flatten its
surface.
* *Drilling:* Multiple left-handed drill bits are used in an attempt
to unscrew the broken bolt fragment. While unsuccessful, this
gradually enlarges the hole.
* *Extracting Threads:* The machinist successfully uses a pick to peel
out the remaining threads of the broken bolt.
* *Cleanup:* The bolt hole and other threaded holes on the head are
cleaned using a tap lubricated with Anchor Lube.
* *Additional Inspection:* As a final check, the machinist uses a
straight edge and feeler gauge to inspect the gasket sealing
surface. A slight bow of 0.004-0.005 inches is found, which the
machinist relays to the customer's friend.
i used gemini on the video transcript
The 1st video I found of yours was the BIG stuff... I was hooked. Over the years some of the things you have done have amazed me, but your video work, even in the beginning was well done and always entertained and educated us all. That spring you dug out of those threads was as good as med school level A/V for surgery instruction. You are a PRO in many aspects of your work and content. BRAVO!
Nice work Adam. Looks like you made things happen. Keep up the great work fella.
It looks like a 4 cylinder GM Jeep engine. These use to be used for USPS right hand steering Jeeps.
Always gonna break out your favorite pair of eyecrometers to get those Heyman jobs done.
“eyecrometers”. nice. The way that thread peeled, ABom’s were a lot better than the 10 thou he was looking for.
Watching you peel out the remains of that bolt will always be satisfying.
Wooaarrr ! Peeling the thread out of the screwhole... That must have been SO satisfying ! ! Masterclass - as always, thank you.
lol of course, "It's a jeep thing" f'ing jeeps =p
Looks like it needs more work, but I'm definately not an engine guy
It was very satisfying watching you peel that sliver of bolt out of the hole, Adam. It’s good to see you get back to basics on these small projects, it’s what got you here. I hope to see more of this and you working on some of the old machines. Get back to basics. Take care of yourself.
You should try a left handed tap,
If it taps try a left handed bolt.
I worked on a head like that, out of a 1980s Ford Ranger. Guy broke almost every bolt, and then broke the easy outs inside the broken bolts. He came to me with his tail between his legs asking for help. After I removed the bolts, doing a similar method as in this video, I checked the head gasket surface for flat and found it to be way off. I called him and let him know. He asked if I could machine it flat, which I did.
I let this guy know what it was going to be, cost wise, before I started any work. I was not operating a shop open to the public, and did this work as a favor for a friend. This "customer" was my friends friend and thus, got the friend rate = $500 total for everything at the end.
At that time, a BRAND NEW head for that truck was $200 at Napa. And that is a COMPLETE head with a gasket! It was nothing special, or built, or rare, or unique in any way. But this guy, not really knowing that, hired me to do the job. When I googled a new head, wondering what it would be, I kept that info to myself.
Max .. 003 is most common spec for cylinder head warpage
, varies per engine and manufacturer
Pls. be brief on your project, stop story telling. Little talk with action will make your show viewable. Right now I feel bored watching interesting project. Pls be brief stop talking too much .. thank you I like your show except feel boring listening to your stories
Action and little talk will make your show interesting to view
Very nice job!❤ Ronnie East Tennessee
10 Jesus answered and said to him, “Are you the teacher of Israel, and do not know these things? 11 Most assuredly, I say to you, We speak what We know and testify what We have seen, and you do not receive Our witness. 12 If I have told you earthly things and you do not believe, how will you believe if I tell you heavenly things? 13 No one has ascended to heaven but He who came down from heaven, that is, the Son of Man who is in heaven. 14 And as Moses lifted up the serpent in the wilderness, even so must the Son of Man be lifted up, 15 that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have eternal life. 16 For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son, that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have everlasting life. 17 For God did not send His Son into the world to condemn the world, but that the world through Him might be saved.18 “He who believes in Him is not condemned; but he who does not believe is condemned already, because he has not believed in the name of the only begotten Son of God (YHVH, El Shaddai, Adonai, God of Jacob, Isaac, and Abraham). John 3:10-18
4-5 thousandths low on the deck? Personally, I'd skim it, but it depends on the budget and availability of "hey man" services.
Will it cause problems? Probably not, but if I could predict the future, I'd simply buy a winning lottery ticket and work on my own projects instead of dealing with customer BS all day every day.
I don't "hey, man" ANYBODY. I let THEM decide whether or not they want to work on it at ALL, and then THEY tell ME what it will take. When it's done and I PAY THE MAN, everybody is happy and they'll gladly take me back as a customer.
Always loved your outro, and love the picture of 3 generations of machinists. Good Video Adam.
003 - 004 , on short head is marginal . longer heads , no problem , but a judgement call . your "process" i enjoy , just one old man technician recommendation ; rethreaders instead of taps . only 2 real reason , as rethreaders a better at STOPPING for debris fused in there if not better at clearing and a little less likely to break off . still its a PREFERENCE thing . how often wood you use rethreader as machinist , compared to we wrench wrestlers?? . Rock on Bruh .... as much as i might learn after 45yrs wrenching , more so , i grab confidence knowing , most of my work similar and similar precesses . Later
I do not have a Facebook Bash account and I’m not a Twit. TH-cam is the only antisocial media I use (in spite of some of the disgusting advertising content we’re forced to watch just to get to something useful: I always have my finger/mouse pointer poised over the skip button). If you can ignore the trolls, there’s a lot of great content here. Thanks for adding what may turn out to be the best bbr technique to my arsenal. I hope to find your other bbr videos for comparison. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skill.
That's a bit sketchy on the cylinder head warpage. From what I recall as a rule of thumb on an old iron 4 cylinder head you want .003" maximum distortion. Some say 2 thou. No way I'd run something almost 5 thou out when you've already got it torn down anyways.
I need a quill on my milling machine. Maybe time to dedicate my 1940’s universal to horizontal only and buy another 2 tons of rented workshop moving liability……?
Surface that head so much for high compression 500 HP YEEE HAW. Cut the muffler off for 100+ more HP YEE HAW.
Customer should have had you surface the deck of that head. It's off, the surface doesn't look all that great, and with the block surface being an unknown (a gasket only seals when it's clamped between 2 surfaces well) it's cheap insurance for the repair to work not only today, but 30,000 miles down the road as well. He should have also brought in the exhaust manifold to be surfaced, it'll be warped to hell.
0.004" is a bit much for most aluminum cylinder heads. I've seen this warp removed by cold set, using the old gasket with the middle cut out, clamping the head down with old bolts to 75% of listed torque.
Do you always use the recommended tap size according to the chart? When is it better to go tighter or looser? By how much? 2 thou? Does anybody have suggestions?
The technique you used is for bolts, not broken taps. How would you extract a busted tap way in? A cobalt drill? Tap extractor?
VERY satisfying to witness but candle wax would have been easier. 🙂🙂The sponsors were very obvious.
Very satisfying, as always. I've seen you remove a dozen broken bolts, I bet, and it's always got me sitting on the edge of my chair. Thanks, Adam. We appreciate the efforts you make to pass on your experience and expertise.
why don’t you talk while actually doing it without the needless chatter before hand, a mistake most youtuber makes which results in less subscribers, actually jaking for 11+ minutes without doing anything, talk about dragging it out. totally frustrating, couldn’t finish watching this.
It’s interesting how many “experts” are watching a video on broken bolt removal! Why would they be wasting their valuable time?
The only way to proceed that works every time for me (fingers crossed) is not messing things up and getting it done. In that sense, drilling precise is a whole lot safer than trying to weld precise. I'll weld if I'm confident I can't hurt the piece the bolt is stuck in. You can't go wrong with Knock'er Loose either, so that's always worth a try, but these are still never the jobs you make money on.
From my own experience, bolts the break when they are being removed need drilling as you do. Bolts that break being tightened either weld or left-hand drilling. Exhaust studs in alloy heads the worst I have ever come across. 99% had to be drilled as you have shown and pick out the 'thread coil'. Wasted too much time trying the weld procedure and will always ask the owner did the breakage happen on tightening or removal.
WTH is "acrosst"?
14:05 Hi,
I don’t know much about machining so if so please forgive my ignorance.
It looks like those threads are milled out by the end mill or am I mistaken? Or are those threads filled with the material that’s removed by the drill?
I’m just curious.
I have a 2000 R50 Pathfinder that requires replacement of its headers. As far as I know, they have never been removed since the vehicle was manufactured in Japan 24 years ago. I suspect that there may be a few broken bolts that need to be dealt with in the process.
Very good job, what brand of tap do you recommend for working with stainless steel? The thread is metric m8, thank you.
Starrett 811 huh? Checked it out,,,,,700 bucks for an indicator???? For that price that indicator should do the job for you,,,,and clean the machine when it's done.
I agree about the Bob Villa method of welding a nut to a broken bolt, though. If you can take it to the mill, it goes to the mill. We even got a head bolt out of a Detroit diesel block by putting it in the big Horizontal Cinci once. (Anybody ever try it with a Mag Drill? - It's a thought if you have flat surface for the drill t o bite onto)
Let's face it though. You can't beat the chi-com portable tap burners with a stick. - ( Especially when the the BVs get in there and break off an easy out. ) We could have paid for a burner 5 times over if we had one. - Hind sight is 20/20
And Hey, Looks like everybody is using Anchor Lube on everything. I better get with the times.
At any rate another typical first class job by ABOM. - Didn't even touch the existing threads at all! (It's 50/50 with us)
I had a 2.5L for years, I never had a problem with the exhaust manifold other than not being able to keep the down pipe tight to it. I went through probably 5 down pipes and 2 full exhaust replacements trying to fix it
Great job Adam I agree with you. Some of my experience when welding and turning out a stuck bolt does more damage to the internal threads. Where drilling out and pulling a thread Slinky out seems to preserve the internal threads more often. Base material matters alot more. High strength steel vs cast steel parts or cast aluminum. So my only question usually is will it fit on my mill, if so I prefer to drill it out If not then ill go to welding or heating. Also the most important thing ever is the cost of the original part / availability. There are guys that can basically ETM broken Carbide cutters out of a part in order to save it. All a matter of money.
It was a great video and your new shop looks very clean, beautiful and professional. I getting like goosebumps when a repair job is done so well like in the video. I'm a car mechanic and say it can be okay with the flatness because the head gasket is thick enough. Obviously it would be better and more reliable to send the head out to make it properly like make it flat all around and check the valves and of cause replace every seal/gasket. It's the owners decision. At the previous work I had a exhaust pipe leak and it was connected to the exhaust system which puts back some old gases into the intake (I can't remember the English term for it) the problem was that it was very rusty and the new gasket was actually only two thin sheets of metal but the gap between both parts was already to big. But somehow i got it fixed not professional but good enough for a very greedy and tight budget.
a single thread, beautiful
There was no video of you and your dad back in the day. That’s because back then, machinists didn’t want to give away their secrets. Some jobs that the local garage keeper was scared of, the machinist didn’t sweat it. We now know about the voodoo that happened behind the door. Left hand drill bits. Welding nuts on the remnants of a bolt. It has made the machinists life harder now that the secret is out. He now has to re round a hole. Extract left hand drill bits and taps. Remove hardened bolts and weld slag. So much better these days with videos showing us how it was done.
Adam, can I get your contact info please? I need help finding parts for an old Monarch 18" C 18x72 lathe.
Gosh Darn, Adam! Wouldn't it be nice of you to know the name of the person that sent you the box of new old stock cutters? Kind of selfish here aren't you?
Wonderful quality of photography. Thank you.
If I remember correctly, the angle of the intake bolts was changed in 1986 and after on the chevy sb..
Aluminum head with steel bolts sets up an electrolytic pair with the oxides expanding the two solidly, more than thermal expansion difference can defeat. Welding to the bolt CAN expand the steel enough to loosen some but not all.
Alum will dissolve the steel without damaging the aluminum but it is slower than Sunday mail
it's about content and stretching air time, yep, the extraction of the bolt could have been shown in 2 minutes. And wow what a revelation, other channels just weld on a washer and or a nut and turn it out, but I guess the real pros resort to ultra sophisticated means, maybe unnecessarily just to make mileage on videos and of course to endorse the idea that only ultra equipped shops can tackle a broken off fastener. Gimme a break.
Not a Jeep expert but if the center is 5 thou up, those heads will probably be okay as long as they are torqued down in the correct order from the center out. They could be decked but I don't think it's vital in this instance.
Young man you are a " PRO "
That indicator is nice til you see the price of it 😂 you must be making bank all these new machines and $500 indicator
Clearly a very good machine shop
What that guy is trying to do with that intake manifold will not work he's trying to put an old style intake on centerbolt valve cover heads likely a vortec 350 they sell carburetor manifolds cheap online for what he's needing to do
Normally I fast forward though videos and what do I watch all the way through, a guy removing a broken bolt. Just does not seem right.
Don't you have a large surface plate in the office? I'm a little surprised you didn't use it for checking the head.
What is the advantage of cutting the slot drills in half? Can you just pop them in the collet a bit higher as they were designed to be used?
That way it also fits into the drill chuck.
@@CothranMike A 3/8" double ended cutter fits into a 1/2" drill chuck and clamps on over 7/8" of plain shank when fully inserted.
Had a guy give me the old “you can just do that in an hour” after I told him it’d take 2-3. He then told me he’d go somewhere else cheaper. I said no problem.