God kill me butchering up a vehicle cuz you're too cheap to make the proper repair here it is you have a luxury vehicle that is air ride suspension and you're going to cut off one of the main features of the vehicle which is a comfy ride makes no sense whatsoever the sadly enough I bought a vehicle from the auction Just for kicks and giggles I have spent so much money making repairs to this vehicle because people that don't like to spend the money to make It prepares that they should make why do you think the vehicle cost you all that money in the beginning if you bought a vehicle brand new can you drive with 150,000 MI and the parts begin to go bad you got your freaking money's worth so to keep getting your money's worth you make the proper repairs so now you have it paid off vehicle that still has a comfy ride because you repaired the systems they keep it comfortable what's my 99 Blazer I spent over $4,000 in repairs cheap lazy people all of the rotors pads and calipers fuel pump radiator water pump those are things I've already done net including the upper and lower radiator hose now I'm getting ready to do the transmission which needs to be rebuilt the shock absorbers in the upper control arms transmission was murdered by the radiator what is a singular that General Motors makes put your transmission on a cooler by itself radiators that cool your transmission fluid will eventually destroy a transmission what happened to me was the transmission cooler started leaking inside the radiator so transmission fluid was getting in the radiator radiator fluid was getting in the transmission which interns killed the transmission I've already replaced the radiator no I'm not complaining about spending some money cuz I don't mind funny thing is people continually ask me stupid butt questions my 94 pickup I ran it over $300,000 me because I kept replacing the parts with Quality Parts flick of the key starts the first time every time no my blazer toy I like the fact that's got the 4.3 V6 383 but I really don't think so because the 4.3 is it's just two cylinders cut off of a 350 but as far as all the repairs that I've made to it is shock absorbers upper control arms replace the transmission oil rebuild the transmission in the upper control arms in a complete set of tires and wheels has anybody that has one of those vehicles I employ you get rid of the 15-inch wheels that are on it nobody cares the tires on in stock get a flat you're in deep doo-doo cuz you have to wait for them to order your tires and your chances to go into a used tire shop to find one you'll be lucky if you can find one so I'm going to replace the wheels with six teams I'm going to finish making the repairs and Replacements that need to be happen but the fuel pump was 1000 bucks by itself and I think that's what the tears a lot of people from making certain repairs on keeping a vehicle but I mean if you actually think about it if you make the repairs as they come up my 94 is gone jackasses took that while I was in the hospital fighting for my life I was in the hospital for over a month State took my vehicle impounded it so it was all my freaking tools and everything in it word to the wise make sure you have someone that can go get your vehicle me I'm an only child and I have no relatives Denise jackasses I go down to the office I'm like well where is my tools at mind you I bought a replacement engine from Jasper that truck just about every part alternator air conditioning compressor water pump radiator transmission all of the brakes I replaced all that stuff in that truck put the best spark plugs I can find in all the wiring rubber cap and button truck ran for number for its age but you know what those engines get the little age on them they start to lose compression on certain cylinders so that's the reason why I bought a second engine for it 305 that was under the hood and drop in the new one and what's crazy is man I mean these these people are complete buddies man over $3,000 in tools almost $4,000 in a replacement engine and they were coming after me for parking tickets I didn't feel that I owed him a freaking dying all of my tools that you guys gave away while I was in the hospital fighting for my life my brand new engine that you guys gave away or sold or whatever case you did with it why should I pay you one Thin dime not including the truck itself they had over $7,000 worth of equipment engine and other things on that truck that had nothing to do with the truck other than the engine and I'm like I asked the judge to say how you think I'm going to let me get the money from I said you just put me out of work you took my livelihood and gave it away did I get any money for me I took away my ability to work
I have a 2000 Yukon and there was no way I was going to replace the AutoRide shocks. Way too expensive. This saved me from having that warning light on. Great video!!
just picked up an 03 Denali XL and i think it stands up even against the newer ones. Super easy to work on, no DOD system, and pretty much every option a new car would come with (Carplay, RSE, Bose, Heated Seats, Backup Camera, etc…
Worked on my 2003 Yukon denali 6.0 AWD!!! I had replaced the air suspension and active shocks with regular suspension but still had the aggravating "Service Ride Control" message every time the suv was started. Thank you for the helpful video!!! Much easier than trying to add resistors at all 4 wheels and adding a resistor/device at the air pump. Finished in 15 minutes. I love not getting the Service Ride Control Message. Also gives me an extra power wire at the rear of the vehicle if I every need to add additional equipment back there.
yes because you removed it, you need to use a bypass to get the system disabled, but if you use the factory system is another issue, normally is the rear compressor, that now is my front and they are not air driven, I am lost right now, but will figure this out.
Super helpful, our vehicle is too old to justify replacing the load control system, so going with traditional shocks is the way to go. Turning off the warning center light has been an issue ever since. Way to go!!
I have the exact same model, Black 2006 Yukon Denali, and just as rusty underneath, ha ha! but with only 2" rear lowering springs and the the front torsion bars turned down. I followed your directions exactly and it worked! Thank you! Took about 20 minutes tops, including vacuuming under where the rear sill plate is located.
Worked! I did the “resistor-thing” first. Pulled the entire air system and replaced shocks , struts and rear springs. Still had the occasional ride light and couldn’t figure out which resistor failed. Your fix worked! Thanks.
Thank you andyB! I have the 2005 GMC Yukon Denali XL and gave it a try. Location of the ride control computer is a little different but still have the same harness. I didn't have to take all the panels out. Just where the ride control computer is located. I cut the orange power wire and capped it. Put everything back together, reconnected the battery and went on a test drive. The "service ride control" never came back on. Thanks for the info. Now, just need to bypass the TPMS.
Great thanks for posting. Do you have a pic of the orange wire before it was cut? Also, what is the black connector that is unplugged with the organge wire for?
On my 2005 Danali,I bought a delete kit for the rear air ride.Came with a resister that went in the wire harness.Well something went wrong and it activated the Anti-Theft system.Took over a week to deactivate that system.I took that resister out and pulled the fuse instead.
Hey andyB, I noticed your brake lines when you were showing the underside of your truck and they are really rotted. I'm telling you this and anyone who has one of these GM Trucks to PLEASE change your brake lines they can go on you any day now. I just did 3 of my friends trucks, GM has a class action law suit against them for death and injuries due to failing/ rotted rusted through brake lines. PASS THE WORD!
@@andyb1185 That's more of a right now project, those brake lines may not wait until winter to fail on you while you're driving. Don't wait Sir please 🙏❤
Awesome video I have been struggling with the light on since 2011. I'm pretty sure someone else has the answer already, but what can I use to replace the whole suspension front & back.? I drive a 2005 Denali XL.
@@jachobbash4752 NO I TOTALLY FORGOT!!!! lol... thanks for the reminder tho! I also rewatched the video... i thing its silly not to just pull the fuse. As long as that fuse only runs the RTD. Waaaayyy easier than pulling the rear panel.
Since he showed us that it’s the top left power wire, I wouldn’t be surprised if we can just peek thru the vents on that panel and cut it from there without ruining the panel. If someone can answer this… can we just use a scanner to erase any codes instead of messing with the battery? Also, if we disconnect the air ride, what do we need to do to the suspension? Regular shocks? Stronger springs? You mentioned adjusting something a few notches.
Removed the fuse and cut wire. Still have the message. Was the battery disconnect the secret? Thanks. I will go back and unhook battery. For those who want to save even more time if you remove the retainers on the back end of the heater housing trim/interior panel I was able to bend back slightly and thanks to this video, I can cut the orange wire in minutes I was finished.
Yes, you have to disconnect the battery first, then touch the cables together, or cycle the ignition, to rid any residual power. I tried first with pulling the fuse before I figured this way out
Solid how to.......Poppings panels, easy. Question, my trucks shifting is affected in addition to the these two lights being on. It won't shift past third (no slipping or bad transmission going). I was convinced I had to replace the wheel speed sensor(s) til I saw your video. Think your fix may also return my shifting back to normal in addition to the lights going away?
There shouldn't be any relation between the two as they are two separate systems, sorry. I've had no change in the way the vehicle shifts or drives after doing this, aside from when tow/haul mode is enabled, of course
My avalanche shutters and jerks randomly, sometimes at take of other times on a turn etc. is this the same issue you are having, I have no check engine light
I wonder if this is the same process on my 2000 Tahoe? I am replacing air shocks with extended shocks and 3 inch level kit and was actually looking for a video for the resistors for each corner when I coke across this video
Hi I got a 07 Escalade and I took the back right panel apart like you did but the ride control computer wasn’t there so I found it mounted up under the spare tire underneath it look like there’s a lot more wires then your I see there’s one orange wire and one orange and black wire I didn’t cut the wire yet cause I wanted your opinion on this.
If that 30 amp fuse powers that module…meaning that orange wire is powered from that fuse, just pull that fuse? I’d rather pull the fuse and take 1 minute to disconnect the battery and pull it than rear out all the interior and have a live wire underneath the trim
Looks like a hassle to remove all that. By the way what is a twiddler speaker? I’m 59 we called the tweeters. Glad you knew the other is a sub woofer. Thanks for the video
Sometimes it takes a little more effort than just removing random fuses I guess? A twiddler is the speaker in the d pillar of a GM SUV, designed to fill in the range between a tweeter and mid range speaker, not to be confused with a tweeter which is the small speaker mounted in the a pillar plastic on the GM trucks and SUVs, by the way. Also, I believe subwoofer is one word, as long as we are internet critiquing for some strange reason. Thanks for the engagement!
If you have an escalade or yukon with hydroboost, it will ALSO disable your steering angle sensor and eventually trigger an ABS light. Tried that exact thing on my truck but unfortunately the RTD computer and hydroboost are interconnected.
Hydroboost is a non electronic component. Maybe that is more an abs issue? I've read these trucks can have abs pump issues because of the unit bring mounted where it is more susceptible to corrosion under the vehicle. My brakes are fine aside from the hydroboost seals leaking a bit, and no abs lights still
So if you didn’t want to use the orange wire as another power source, can I just pull the fuse? Seems like all those other wires are connected to that fuse?
I had the annoying service control lock chime every 5 minutes. I just disconnected battery, then removed the RTD fuse and so good so far. Just drove around the neighborhood--and no noise. Wondering if this may create any other issues?
Why did you service ride control came on? Mine came on after I replaced the 2 front shocks, with OEM, drove the car home, then took it back in the morning ""no lights on at all"" to replace the tight rods and align the front and now the service ride light is on. I reconnected the original front shocks for testing and same issue " the service ride comes" I see everywhere that the issue for that message is the rear air compressor, but I did replace the 2 rear shocks and compressor and had no issues till today, my compressor comes on, and as soon as it does come on, the service ride comes on, then ran diagnostic and shows an issue with originally the driver side front shock, now both front shocks show a problem on the OBD scanner.
i am trying to figure out how to do this on a 2010 but cant find a wiring diagram to do it. if anyone knows what wire and where on a 2010 escalade esv z95 suspension i would appreciate it
Ive got an 01 and an 03 ... yours 99% sure yours DOES have a subwoofer btw. Gm moved it from that spot at the back to underneath the center console. Now youve got two😉👍
Should be the same for my 03 Escalade. I wanna Delete air ride an lift a lil so now I know how to Delete any error codes first thing. Do all that an should be able to find lift kits for a Tahoe to work on my Escalade?
I read on a forum somewhere that someone used the 4 resistor method and after a few months it caused their abs light to come on. Im trying to figure it all out myself, just bought a tahoe that apparently already has the resistors mod and came with the abs light on already as well. Going to try to remove resistors and cut this wire instead and see what happens
Can I take off the fancy socks and put regular socks on this truck. I completely destroyed the entire brake system in this truck by accidentally pouring power steering fluid in the brake fluid spot. I have allot of questions can you help
Hi I'm having problems with the same issue I have a 2007 Tahoe ltz I located that module and it's under the the frame on top where the spare tire goes I cut the power battery cable and even pull out the 30amp fuse for the ( electronic stability suspension control ) and it still shows the message. Any suggestions
So instead of watching or listening to the part where I chose to reuse that already supplied power wire for another application, you cut the video short to make a difficult to comprehend the reasoning behind comment - makes perfect sense...
Hey man, question on your Denali drop. I have an 05 Denali Xl. Dropped the front with 2” spindles but having some issues. Curious if you had any yourself.
Is there any benefit to this? I have a service ride light but I can barely even feel bumps going down the road. Rides infinitely smoother than my 02 suburban Z71 I have an 05/06 Yukon xl.
You really don't have to remove all that stuff and fold the seat forward. Just remove the panel at the bottom at the rear hatch just pops up. Unscrew the one luggage rack pin by hand and the one plastic pin just pulls out. I did remove the upper cover where the tweeter is and unhooked it. That's it since you're only accessing the back of that panel you don't need to remove the front just pull it far enough to see the wire then you can snip it. I did not disconnect the battery yet and I've still getting the lights so I guess I'll have to do that next. I really don't like disconnecting the battery because I've had issues before with the vent blend doors in the dash becoming out of sync or getting heat on one side and cool on the other. It's done that twice on me before. So usually if I have to try to change the battery I try to jump her 12 volts to keep power to it so that doesn't reset that computer. I think the thought process is when the computer is completely reset that all the blend doors cycle themselves all the way one way than the other. Being that they haven't moved in years that far that you can either break the gears or just get misaligned in general.
No, nothing changed power wise. It is definitely important to disconnect both battery cables and touch them together before starting this project to completely drain power from the system though
@@andyb1185 wait so 06 Yukon Here... air ride was replaced...sits ugly &high &im looking to do the 3/4 drop...your saying when you do any suspension work ..kt throws a code???
@@ryanlopez4371 ride quality isn't awful. Definitely not stock any more. I've realized I need to replace most of my steering components and probably going to lift the rear up an inch
I would do this on my Escalade but I’m just converting the front and not the entire truck my back air system still works fine so Idk if I would do this
If you are going to leave the rear and it still functions fine, you may be better off doing the resistor mod if you are replacing the front shocks with non electric ones
So is it easy to do on 2007 Tahoe ltz getting service suspension light codes say it’s just a sensor no ride change no sag just need that message gone permanently out of my message center
Yes, I removed the system as the shocks blew and caused the compressor to run until it burnt itself out. If you still have the system intact and functional but are seeing that message, it may be best to get the trouble codes read to begin to diagnose
Did you at least lower your Cadillac Escalade bro i have a 2002 as well with 4 inch spring drop in the rear and lowered the front with the torsion screws came put great but i removed the 30amp fuze from the front RTD unplugged the negative for 10 minutes clean dash no lights on it
@@aaronchism8555 better.my ride control is shot.cut the power wire in the back right panel to the ride control and the service ride control warning light will go off.
I have the exact engine setup. Good oil and mine is picky with types of fuel. Mid Octane or better, also no ethanol seems to get a little better mileage. Long trips just get the norm.
That's probably his highway average. If you are only getting 11.6 mpg cruising nonstop on the highway then something is wrong. Unless you are running large tires. I would start by making sure your tires are correctly inflated, replacing your air filter and doing spark plugs and wires.
I ended up resetting my average right before I made a 200 mile highway trip and was able to average 16mpg. I have gmt900 20s on it, I may switch to mid grade fuel and see if it makes a difference.
Bro. The majority of the air suspension system has been removed; blown out air shocks, blown out compressor, as well as the lines are all gone. I chose to cut the wire to use it as a power source for an amplified subwoofer enclosure that itself is fused as 20 amps. I'd think a real mechanic wouldn't necessarily need my little explanation video, no?!!??!!!?? Bro.
Ah. Gotcha. I'd love to actually get the air suspension system back working on one of these trucks, but this one is a little too crusty underneath now. They are supposed to have a really nice ride when it's all working though
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
God kill me butchering up a vehicle cuz you're too cheap to make the proper repair here it is you have a luxury vehicle that is air ride suspension and you're going to cut off one of the main features of the vehicle which is a comfy ride makes no sense whatsoever the sadly enough I bought a vehicle from the auction Just for kicks and giggles I have spent so much money making repairs to this vehicle because people that don't like to spend the money to make It prepares that they should make why do you think the vehicle cost you all that money in the beginning if you bought a vehicle brand new can you drive with 150,000 MI and the parts begin to go bad you got your freaking money's worth so to keep getting your money's worth you make the proper repairs so now you have it paid off vehicle that still has a comfy ride because you repaired the systems they keep it comfortable what's my 99 Blazer I spent over $4,000 in repairs cheap lazy people all of the rotors pads and calipers fuel pump radiator water pump those are things I've already done net including the upper and lower radiator hose now I'm getting ready to do the transmission which needs to be rebuilt the shock absorbers in the upper control arms transmission was murdered by the radiator what is a singular that General Motors makes put your transmission on a cooler by itself radiators that cool your transmission fluid will eventually destroy a transmission what happened to me was the transmission cooler started leaking inside the radiator so transmission fluid was getting in the radiator radiator fluid was getting in the transmission which interns killed the transmission I've already replaced the radiator no I'm not complaining about spending some money cuz I don't mind funny thing is people continually ask me stupid butt questions my 94 pickup I ran it over $300,000 me because I kept replacing the parts with Quality Parts flick of the key starts the first time every time no my blazer toy I like the fact that's got the 4.3 V6 383 but I really don't think so because the 4.3 is it's just two cylinders cut off of a 350 but as far as all the repairs that I've made to it is shock absorbers upper control arms replace the transmission oil rebuild the transmission in the upper control arms in a complete set of tires and wheels has anybody that has one of those vehicles I employ you get rid of the 15-inch wheels that are on it nobody cares the tires on in stock get a flat you're in deep doo-doo cuz you have to wait for them to order your tires and your chances to go into a used tire shop to find one you'll be lucky if you can find one so I'm going to replace the wheels with six teams I'm going to finish making the repairs and Replacements that need to be happen but the fuel pump was 1000 bucks by itself and I think that's what the tears a lot of people from making certain repairs on keeping a vehicle but I mean if you actually think about it if you make the repairs as they come up my 94 is gone jackasses took that while I was in the hospital fighting for my life I was in the hospital for over a month State took my vehicle impounded it so it was all my freaking tools and everything in it word to the wise make sure you have someone that can go get your vehicle me I'm an only child and I have no relatives Denise jackasses I go down to the office I'm like well where is my tools at mind you I bought a replacement engine from Jasper that truck just about every part alternator air conditioning compressor water pump radiator transmission all of the brakes I replaced all that stuff in that truck put the best spark plugs I can find in all the wiring rubber cap and button truck ran for number for its age but you know what those engines get the little age on them they start to lose compression on certain cylinders so that's the reason why I bought a second engine for it 305 that was under the hood and drop in the new one and what's crazy is man I mean these these people are complete buddies man over $3,000 in tools almost $4,000 in a replacement engine and they were coming after me for parking tickets I didn't feel that I owed him a freaking dying all of my tools that you guys gave away while I was in the hospital fighting for my life my brand new engine that you guys gave away or sold or whatever case you did with it why should I pay you one Thin dime not including the truck itself they had over $7,000 worth of equipment engine and other things on that truck that had nothing to do with the truck other than the engine and I'm like I asked the judge to say how you think I'm going to let me get the money from I said you just put me out of work you took my livelihood and gave it away did I get any money for me I took away my ability to work
Wtf is this rambling idiot talking about
TLDR
Holy shit I’ve never seen someone ramble like that.
Clown
Can someone sum this up, I don't want to read a book report on ranting
I have a 2000 Yukon and there was no way I was going to replace the AutoRide shocks. Way too expensive. This saved me from having that warning light on. Great video!!
this generation of yukon was the most beautiful generation
Totally agree. Love my 05 Denali.
just picked up an 03 Denali XL and i think it stands up even against the newer ones. Super easy to work on, no DOD system, and pretty much every option a new car would come with (Carplay, RSE, Bose, Heated Seats, Backup Camera, etc…
@@1LElife thats right.
Maybe the best generation of all.
This generation Denali and Tahoe was the most reliable
Most reliable too
Worked on my 2003 Yukon denali 6.0 AWD!!! I had replaced the air suspension and active shocks with regular suspension but still had the aggravating "Service Ride Control" message every time the suv was started. Thank you for the helpful video!!! Much easier than trying to add resistors at all 4 wheels and adding a resistor/device at the air pump. Finished in 15 minutes. I love not getting the Service Ride Control Message. Also gives me an extra power wire at the rear of the vehicle if I every need to add additional equipment back there.
I replaced it with regular shocks In the front by control light came on so I put the air ride shocks with the sensors control light came back on
yes because you removed it, you need to use a bypass to get the system disabled, but if you use the factory system is another issue, normally is the rear compressor, that now is my front and they are not air driven, I am lost right now, but will figure this out.
Super helpful, our vehicle is too old to justify replacing the load control system, so going with traditional shocks is the way to go. Turning off the warning center light has been an issue ever since. Way to go!!
So we're you able to just remove and replace the shocks
I have the exact same model, Black 2006 Yukon Denali, and just as rusty underneath, ha ha!
but with only 2" rear lowering springs and the the front torsion bars turned down. I followed your directions exactly and it worked!
Thank you!
Took about 20 minutes tops, including vacuuming under where the rear sill plate is located.
Worked! I did the “resistor-thing” first. Pulled the entire air system and replaced shocks , struts and rear springs. Still had the occasional ride light and couldn’t figure out which resistor failed.
Your fix worked! Thanks.
What shocks and rear springs did you go with? Like the ride afterwards?
Thanks! Removing RTD fuse and unplugging battery to clear message worked like a charm on 04 Escalade.
Thank you andyB! I have the 2005 GMC Yukon Denali XL and gave it a try. Location of the ride control computer is a little different but still have the same harness. I didn't have to take all the panels out. Just where the ride control computer is located. I cut the orange power wire and capped it. Put everything back together, reconnected the battery and went on a test drive. The "service ride control" never came back on. Thanks for the info. Now, just need to bypass the TPMS.
Where was computer located on Yukon xl model?
Great thanks for posting. Do you have a pic of the orange wire before it was cut? Also, what is the black connector that is unplugged with the organge wire for?
Thanks! This worked and got rid of that annoying chime and cluster notification.
On my 2005 Danali,I bought a delete kit for the rear air ride.Came with a resister that went in the wire harness.Well something went wrong and it activated the Anti-Theft system.Took over a week to deactivate that system.I took that resister out and pulled the fuse instead.
Perfect video perfect explanation!!! Thanks for your good work! God bless you
Hey andyB, I noticed your brake lines when you were showing the underside of your truck and they are really rotted. I'm telling you this and anyone who has one of these GM Trucks to PLEASE change your brake lines they can go on you any day now. I just did 3 of my friends trucks, GM has a class action law suit against them for death and injuries due to failing/ rotted rusted through brake lines. PASS THE WORD!
These lines definitely need replaced, probably going to go with stainless lines, but that's more of a winter project
Mine failed while my wife was driving, luckily she was in a parking lot.. They fail without any warning..
@@andyb1185 That's more of a right now project, those brake lines may not wait until winter to fail on you while you're driving. Don't wait Sir please 🙏❤
I noticed that on my 05 Escalade recently. Good info thanks!
Yea my brake line busted on me yesterday in my 02 yukon denali
Awesome video I have been struggling with the light on since 2011. I'm pretty sure someone else has the answer already, but what can I use to replace the whole suspension front & back.? I drive a 2005 Denali XL.
Nice work dude. Doing this on my 07 suburban in the next week. 👍
Did this work on the 07?
@@jachobbash4752 NO I TOTALLY FORGOT!!!! lol... thanks for the reminder tho! I also rewatched the video... i thing its silly not to just pull the fuse. As long as that fuse only runs the RTD. Waaaayyy easier than pulling the rear panel.
Simple yet functional. Nice video mane
Need more content on your page! Love your stuff.
Since he showed us that it’s the top left power wire, I wouldn’t be surprised if we can just peek thru the vents on that panel and cut it from there without ruining the panel.
If someone can answer this… can we just use a scanner to erase any codes instead of messing with the battery?
Also, if we disconnect the air ride, what do we need to do to the suspension? Regular shocks? Stronger springs? You mentioned adjusting something a few notches.
Dealer can reflash the computer.Some won't do it because of safety rules.
Removed the fuse and cut wire. Still have the message. Was the battery disconnect the secret? Thanks. I will go back and unhook battery. For those who want to save even more time if you remove the retainers on the back end of the heater housing trim/interior panel I was able to bend back slightly and thanks to this video, I can cut the orange wire in minutes I was finished.
Yes, you have to disconnect the battery first, then touch the cables together, or cycle the ignition, to rid any residual power. I tried first with pulling the fuse before I figured this way out
Don't touch cables together good way to fry you ecm
@@shanemarvin4320 konda tough to fry an ecm with the battery disconnected, no? 🤣
@@andyb1185 Well you could connect it and then arc the cables together and celebrate freedom!!
@@giovannigiorgio8962 this is the way
Can you please do a video showing what sub you used and how you wired it? I want to do the same in my 04 Suburban.
Very cool info. I'm looking for a solution on my 05 Escalade Ext
Solid how to.......Poppings panels, easy. Question, my trucks shifting is affected in addition to the these two lights being on. It won't shift past third (no slipping or bad transmission going). I was convinced I had to replace the wheel speed sensor(s) til I saw your video. Think your fix may also return my shifting back to normal in addition to the lights going away?
There shouldn't be any relation between the two as they are two separate systems, sorry. I've had no change in the way the vehicle shifts or drives after doing this, aside from when tow/haul mode is enabled, of course
My avalanche shutters and jerks randomly, sometimes at take of other times on a turn etc. is this the same issue you are having, I have no check engine light
is that the suspension control module? i have a 2010 and it might be in a different location
I wonder if this is the same process on my 2000 Tahoe? I am replacing air shocks with extended shocks and 3 inch level kit and was actually looking for a video for the resistors for each corner when I coke across this video
Hi I got a 07 Escalade and I took the back right panel apart like you did but the ride control computer wasn’t there so I found it mounted up under the spare tire underneath it look like there’s a lot more wires then your I see there’s one orange wire and one orange and black wire I didn’t cut the wire yet cause I wanted your opinion on this.
Did you figure anything out on this yet? Please let me know! Thanks 👍🏼
Going out to my rig right now!! Thanx for the info!!
Btw!!? ....how did you connect the mtx stealth box to the factory head unit?
If that 30 amp fuse powers that module…meaning that orange wire is powered from that fuse, just pull that fuse? I’d rather pull the fuse and take 1 minute to disconnect the battery and pull it than rear out all the interior and have a live wire underneath the trim
I suppose that is another way to do it, but I opted to use that power wire for a long discontinued amplified subwoofer enclosure.
Would this be the most reasonable way?
Just switched to regular shocks in the back and am having that light on
Nice job one quick ?what kind of shock did you get?
I have belltech sp shocks that came with the lowering kit
Looks like a hassle to remove all that. By the way what is a twiddler speaker? I’m 59 we called the tweeters. Glad you knew the other is a sub woofer. Thanks for the video
Sometimes it takes a little more effort than just removing random fuses I guess? A twiddler is the speaker in the d pillar of a GM SUV, designed to fill in the range between a tweeter and mid range speaker, not to be confused with a tweeter which is the small speaker mounted in the a pillar plastic on the GM trucks and SUVs, by the way. Also, I believe subwoofer is one word, as long as we are internet critiquing for some strange reason.
Thanks for the engagement!
What size tires bro the fitment is sick
If you have an escalade or yukon with hydroboost, it will ALSO disable your steering angle sensor and eventually trigger an ABS light. Tried that exact thing on my truck but unfortunately the RTD computer and hydroboost are interconnected.
Hydroboost is a non electronic component. Maybe that is more an abs issue? I've read these trucks can have abs pump issues because of the unit bring mounted where it is more susceptible to corrosion under the vehicle. My brakes are fine aside from the hydroboost seals leaking a bit, and no abs lights still
I went with strutmasters complete shock conversion kit comes with resistors to by pass system for my 2005 Yukon , money well spent !
Nice did you get new rear coils too? How does it ride compared to the air suspension
@@AlanTrades
Yes it came with coils , rides like a dream
@@keithroller3131 nice I'm going to purchase it thanks! Could you just remove the fuse to prevent the error from showing up?
@@williamwatson3567 also wouldn't the relay kit work?
So if you didn’t want to use the orange wire as another power source, can I just pull the fuse?
Seems like all those other wires are connected to that fuse?
I unplugged it but my service message still comes up. Do I have to cut the wire ?
I had the annoying service control lock chime every 5 minutes. I just disconnected battery, then removed the RTD fuse and so good so far. Just drove around the neighborhood--and no noise. Wondering if this may create any other issues?
Update?
On mine pulling the rtd fuse made my steering wonky.... it also controls speedsense steering
@@jeremykochan5718 what is speed sense steering?
I just did it to a 2002 Yukon and it worked, however I disconnect the whole harness the first one the top one instead of cutting the red wire.
Why did you service ride control came on? Mine came on after I replaced the 2 front shocks, with OEM, drove the car home, then took it back in the morning ""no lights on at all"" to replace the tight rods and align the front and now the service ride light is on.
I reconnected the original front shocks for testing and same issue " the service ride comes" I see everywhere that the issue for that message is the rear air compressor, but I did replace the 2 rear shocks and compressor and had no issues till today, my compressor comes on, and as soon as it does come on, the service ride comes on, then ran diagnostic and shows an issue with originally the driver side front shock, now both front shocks show a problem on the OBD scanner.
so would pulling the fuse be enough to turn it off for inspections? The air ride was taken out as well
i am trying to figure out how to do this on a 2010 but cant find a wiring diagram to do it. if anyone knows what wire and where on a 2010 escalade esv z95 suspension i would appreciate it
Ive got an 01 and an 03 ... yours 99% sure yours DOES have a subwoofer btw. Gm moved it from that spot at the back to underneath the center console. Now youve got two😉👍
Should be the same for my 03 Escalade. I wanna Delete air ride an lift a lil so now I know how to Delete any error codes first thing. Do all that an should be able to find lift kits for a Tahoe to work on my Escalade?
hi thx for video, question why not just remove the fuse, can something go wrong?
I used the power source for a powered subwoofer enclosure and was able to avoid running an additional power wire
doing this. does mess with the abs braking system?
i have a 2003 denali
This does not affect abs in any way
I read on a forum somewhere that someone used the 4 resistor method and after a few months it caused their abs light to come on. Im trying to figure it all out myself, just bought a tahoe that apparently already has the resistors mod and came with the abs light on already as well. Going to try to remove resistors and cut this wire instead and see what happens
Can I take off the fancy socks and put regular socks on this truck. I completely destroyed the entire brake system in this truck by accidentally pouring power steering fluid in the brake fluid spot. I have allot of questions can you help
Hi I'm having problems with the same issue I have a 2007 Tahoe ltz I located that module and it's under the the frame on top where the spare tire goes I cut the power battery cable and even pull out the 30amp fuse for the ( electronic stability suspension control ) and it still shows the message. Any suggestions
Hey Carlos , I also did the cutting wire and fuse removal , no luck , wonder if figured something
@@kenttrafael nop not yet I guess I need to put everything back together and buy the resister the bypass everything
So instead of pulling a fuse that can easily be replaced, you cut a difficult to get to wire - makes perfect sense...
So instead of watching or listening to the part where I chose to reuse that already supplied power wire for another application, you cut the video short to make a difficult to comprehend the reasoning behind comment - makes perfect sense...
Makes no sense. Fuse was the easiest way.
Hey man, question on your Denali drop. I have an 05 Denali Xl. Dropped the front with 2” spindles but having some issues. Curious if you had any yourself.
What issues are you having?
Sooo what was the reason for not just pulling the fuse?
Do u actually have to remove and replace the air shocks ?
Is there any benefit to this? I have a service ride light but I can barely even feel bumps going down the road. Rides infinitely smoother than my 02 suburban Z71 I have an 05/06 Yukon xl.
Really good video thanks
Cutting the wire eliminates the traction active message aswell???
You really don't have to remove all that stuff and fold the seat forward. Just remove the panel at the bottom at the rear hatch just pops up. Unscrew the one luggage rack pin by hand and the one plastic pin just pulls out. I did remove the upper cover where the tweeter is and unhooked it. That's it since you're only accessing the back of that panel you don't need to remove the front just pull it far enough to see the wire then you can snip it. I did not disconnect the battery yet and I've still getting the lights so I guess I'll have to do that next. I really don't like disconnecting the battery because I've had issues before with the vent blend doors in the dash becoming out of sync or getting heat on one side and cool on the other. It's done that twice on me before. So usually if I have to try to change the battery I try to jump her 12 volts to keep power to it so that doesn't reset that computer. I think the thought process is when the computer is completely reset that all the blend doors cycle themselves all the way one way than the other. Being that they haven't moved in years that far that you can either break the gears or just get misaligned in general.
Did you have a power reduce when you replaced the suspension? My Denali 1500 does when I replaced my front shocks
No, nothing changed power wise. It is definitely important to disconnect both battery cables and touch them together before starting this project to completely drain power from the system though
so disconnect battery, pull fuse, thats it? will i still have air level system? , just notthe dampening?
Hello, I came across your video as I am wanting to do the same. Would this work for a 03 Tahoe? Thank you
Yes it should be the same procedure
Excellent vudeo. Thx u.
If you cut the wire will it lower the back
I wish it was that easy, cutting the wire just makes the computer unable to power up to throw trouble codes when you put a lowering kit on
@@andyb1185 wait so 06 Yukon Here... air ride was replaced...sits ugly &high &im looking to do the 3/4 drop...your saying when you do any suspension work ..kt throws a code???
@@ryanlopez4371 if you disconnect anything or change ride height, yeah, you'll most likely get the code on
@@andyb1185 hmmm no shit ...well this will come in handy when ido drop it I suppose....
How's the ride quality on messed up roads?
@@ryanlopez4371 ride quality isn't awful. Definitely not stock any more. I've realized I need to replace most of my steering components and probably going to lift the rear up an inch
so after this repair you lost " ride control"
driving experience is different?
Does that influence the front suspension?
yes, Iff you still have the z55 shocks up there, they won't have the variable dampening function anymore.
I would do this on my Escalade but I’m just converting the front and not the entire truck my back air system still works fine so Idk if I would do this
If you are going to leave the rear and it still functions fine, you may be better off doing the resistor mod if you are replacing the front shocks with non electric ones
Will my denali still be awd if I do this?
Will this work on a 2002 GMC Yukon?
That’s great! I’m going to do this right now.
Work??
@@mayken6661 No it didn’t work at all. Maybe because mine is an 08 but nothing was in the same place.
What does " SERVICE RIDE CONTROL " DO ?
I just took the rear apart unplugged the module , after changing shocks out , also removed the fuse I still get message on dash ?
You have to remove the battery and then unplug the module. For whatever reason it should work in that order
Great video. Thanks!
Tried your fix on my 2003 Suburban. Didn’t work for my vehicle.😢
Will this work on a 2007?
I have the same Escalade wheel on my Denali 😂
I removed the fuse problem solved 😅
So why is this better than just pulling the fuse?
Bro where did you get that Denali steering wheel?
It came from a 2008 Envoy Denali
@@andyb1185 Thank you!
If I pull the fuse will the auto ride compressor still kick on?
Just unlplug it from the bottom
This did not work on my truck mechanic tried the method laid out in this video and the message still shows up
So is it easy to do on 2007 Tahoe ltz getting service suspension light codes say it’s just a sensor no ride change no sag just need that message gone permanently out of my message center
How did you do it? And did the service suspension light go away?
Is this only if you dont have the air ride system anymore? i stil have the air ride system and wondering how to get the message off
Yes, I removed the system as the shocks blew and caused the compressor to run until it burnt itself out. If you still have the system intact and functional but are seeing that message, it may be best to get the trouble codes read to begin to diagnose
@@andyb1185 thanks for the clarification.
Do you know the RPO code for the magneride in this year model?
I believe it is Z55
Okay so you saying this is easier than just removing the fuse
Hahahaha I was thinking the same thing
Didn't say it was easier. I prefer to not cut corners and used the power source for something else.
@@andyb1185 i was just joking around wit you bro
Where did you get that steering wheel dude
I got mine out of a Denali trimmed Envoy, but Platinum Escalades also had them
What drop you have on that Denali??
Belltech 759SP I believe was the kit number
I did this on my 2002 escalade and I feel like the suspension is different and it drives different
As in better or worse...mine is service stability control
Did you at least lower your Cadillac Escalade bro i have a 2002 as well with 4 inch spring drop in the rear and lowered the front with the torsion screws came put great but i removed the 30amp fuze from the front RTD unplugged the negative for 10 minutes clean dash no lights on it
@@ThePtown91 I haven't done the back yet.not sure exactly how I should do it.the air ride pump and motor are out of the truck.
@@aaronchism8555 better.my ride control is shot.cut the power wire in the back right panel to the ride control and the service ride control warning light will go off.
Why does my 04 yukon feel like the front end is driving over itself
I have a drive by cable in a 2006 yukon 😅
Wnder if this applies to my 95?deville
I want to know how you avg 15mpg with a 6.0 and awd, my Denali avg is 11.6
Do you reset your average every time you fill your gas tank? I do so that may be why
I have the exact engine setup. Good oil and mine is picky with types of fuel. Mid Octane or better, also no ethanol seems to get a little better mileage. Long trips just get the norm.
That's probably his highway average.
If you are only getting 11.6 mpg cruising nonstop on the highway then something is wrong. Unless you are running large tires.
I would start by making sure your tires are correctly inflated, replacing your air filter and doing spark plugs and wires.
I ended up resetting my average right before I made a 200 mile highway trip and was able to average 16mpg. I have gmt900 20s on it, I may switch to mid grade fuel and see if it makes a difference.
Why not just remove the fuse/relay you pointed out at the beginning?
I used the power wire to power something else
Bro just a quick question!?!? U don't believe in pulling a fuse but cutting a wire is better? U just made it harder to fix for a real mechanic
Bro. The majority of the air suspension system has been removed; blown out air shocks, blown out compressor, as well as the lines are all gone. I chose to cut the wire to use it as a power source for an amplified subwoofer enclosure that itself is fused as 20 amps. I'd think a real mechanic wouldn't necessarily need my little explanation video, no?!!??!!!?? Bro.
@andyb1185 I was meaning a real mechanic to put it all back together if u sold it to a person that wanted it back right. Bro bro
Ah. Gotcha. I'd love to actually get the air suspension system back working on one of these trucks, but this one is a little too crusty underneath now. They are supposed to have a really nice ride when it's all working though
I’ll go with the fuse lol. Thx though
Thank you!
You should conversion coat all that rust
Conversion coating sounds like something that would make my wires more difficult to get to.
Does anyone know if the 05 cadillac escalade is the same??
It is
Do you still have your air shocks and will this affect them if soo?
I dont have air shocks. I removed them when I installed the lowering kit as they were blown anyway
This is also the wire for rear ac...I cut the same wire now rear ac doesn't work
That is not the wire for any of the rear hvac, not even a close connector. Sounds like you may have cut an incorrect wire
Could you just unplug?
didnt work for me still have the message
Can anyone Explain to me why I got this code on my dash when I have a 05 3500 Duramax with no air ride in the first place😂
Annnnd why dont you just pull the fuse?