Thank you all for suggesting this penetrating oil showdown! Best regards, Todd AeroKroil: amzn.to/3jaWGiJ Liquid Wrench: amzn.to/32dX7Sw PB Blaster: amzn.to/31igfPW Royal Purple: amzn.to/2QfbuA6 WD-40: amzn.to/2Eh0BLY
I work at a hardware store that sells a lot of the products you test. I’ve actually been referring unsure customers to your videos to help them decide what to get. Absolutely love your channel!
I hope you never get tired of doing these tests. As someone with both limited knowledge and funds. It's easy to be lured to buy the "best" (Most expensive) . I'll take function over form every time. Your channel helps.
Most of you guys are living in the west with all brands you can think of. For other people living in a third world country we are lucky when we get WD40. It is fun to watch these tests but far from reality here I am in Uganda.
@@happyjohn8256 I am from Norway but have been living in Africa for 18 years. WD-40 is available in cities but by experience we have been using break fluid or diesel for penetrating rusted nuts and bolts. Propane or oxy-acetylene for heating is only available in the cities.
I enjoy watching your videos for numerous reasons. I'm a mechanic & have been almost all my life & there are many methods to removing frozen or rusted hardware. ( 1 ) PB Blaster is JUNK & the product often runs out of Aresol leaving over a 1/4 remaining in the can. RESOLVE: I use a AC puncture handle & empty the remainder into a spray bottle. ( 2 ) WD40 is JUNK- Over time if you do a test, you'll find that the surface of the stuck / rusted whatever will get much worse, especially if left out in the elements. RESOLVE: Don't waste your money! ( 3 ) Gasoila - Works great but only if you have time & soak the problem repeatedly, that's with most other products. ( 4 ) FreeAll - I've used it a few times but it's VERY expensive & honestly doesn't provide a value at all. ( 5 ) Liquid Wrench - In my opinion & the millions of time I've used it is MUCH BETTER than all the other brands. As for the cost, it depends on where you can get it. I've found with most that if you have time & consistantly keep soaking it that almost any product is better than none. The conditions & temperatures & exposure all play a part in the demise as well. EXCELLENT CONTENT in your channel & like your content providing answers to those whom wish to learn & gain knowledge! THAN YOU SIR 🙂
Pbblaster smells like brain damage. I've got a can just like you said it's got quite a bit left in it and doesn't work. Been using deep creep and I'd like to try liquid wrench.
"Results: Liquid Wrench came out on top, following by ATF/Acetone, Royal Purple, WD-40, PB Blaster, and AeroKroil." Thank you very much for typing that in the description!
Results: Heat worked a little, followed by Liquid Wrench. The others did nothing because they were all about the same as dry. Then we soaked the nuts in vinegar for an hour and they came off by hand with no wrench at all.
@@hyzercreek This is doubtful.. if you listened @:56 in the video you would recall he torqued them too 100flbs. Now maybe your Steve Austin, the Bionic man, but it's doubtful. Please provide a video showing this..lol
Nice job! You forgot a big piece. The control step where you put a wrench on an untreated nut, apply full strength, slip, skin knuckles, and then proceed to mumble choice profanity.
I've been in aviation maintenance for over 20 years and 100% hands down prefer Kroil to just about anything. I'm a little shocked to see it perform poorly on this test. It's amazing on dissimilar metal corrosion and heat stressed titanium, which are often found in aviation. It also smells great! Thanks for your videos. I found your channel a few weeks ago and have already purchased a few products based on your testing. I am not disappointed!
I'm the opposite. Kroil just REEKS to me and I can't stand it. I was given a can and have only tried it 3 times on frozen nuts/bolts, but it didn't seem to do much of anything to help. My trial results matched Todd's here.
Jeff is that you? Anyway, my buddy Jeff works in aviation maintenance also. He works on propellers and after just visiting him this past weekend, I saw a can of Aerokroil in his garage, and he swore by it.
How have you found it to work in the cold? I’m interested in using it on my shotgun while cold weather hunting, water and cold temps will lock ya up solid
Keep in mind he's testing these products on short-term surface rust. It's going to be a different story on years old, very rusty fasteners you'd find under a vehicle. The fact is sometimes a torch is the only solution and that's why I always have one on hand.
I'm up in the salt belt of upstate NY. If I have time, I like to torch first and then hit it with penetrant. Seems like the heat opens it up and allows the penetrant in more, always had good luck using both.
Kroil works better with heat: heating parts and dousing with Kroil seems to smoke less than doing the same with PB Blaster, too. FWIW, I also ran a PC fan with only RP Synfilm on the shaft (no grease) for nearly two years before it finally seized. I'd say it has great lubricant properties. I've also used it to lubricate turntable parts, too. The dropper bottle comes in quite handy for finer applications like that.
I absolutely love how you seem to think of EVERYTHING when doing these tests, such as putting the nuts on the studs with the beveled edge down and covering the bolts not being treated as each new set was being treated. GREAT WORK!
Try two old tricks I was shown 35 years ago by a old timer(60+). 1)Shock(hammer) the plate or parts next to the bolt. Use brass/lead hammer or pad it with a peace of soft wood. 2 or 3 good firm stikes. Works great, no chemicals spills to remove. 2) Tighten the bolt slightly. 1/8 turn or so. It breaks the rust and does not start the removal of the bolt with pushing the rust into the threads. I use these so often a young guy at work thinks I can't hammer and forget the direction to turn the bolts. I love removing bolt he gave up on, right in front of him. I have shown him and explained the theory behind them.
at work we do both of these before either using acetone, wd-40 or kroil. knock it a bit with a hammer, turn it more a bit, apply oil, turn it back, apply more oil, let it sit for a minute, if it dont come out in 30 minutes sit it over night. after watching these videos im gonna go buy some liquid wrench or that sea foam.
Yep, my dad used a big brass hammer, torch, and WD-40 to loosen up salty and corroded parts. I think he might have shown me the tighten slighty thing too, I can't recall though.
Great test. If you do this again, I would love to see if any of these actually penetrate the threads. After breaking the torque off, you could remove the nut and see if the oils went down into the threads.
Here I was using Liquid Wrench all this time because it was cheap, and was considering the 50/50 mix... Nice to see LW placed so well, I'll be sticking with it (wasn't thrilled about playing with acetone). Thanks for what you do, subscribed!
I am literally watching this while standing in the hardware store looking at the penetrating oils.... Full volume on my phone and giving you a thumbs up! 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you! Some great advice I received a while back is as follows: If one creates deceiving titles, how can one trust the content of the channel. Seems like great advice!
I was surprised at the results. Last week I spent 7 hours on a stuck bell housing bolt. I used every tool I have including torch and impact. I was at a loss so I sprayed PB Blaster (recommended by a friend) and went to bed. In the morning the bolt was finger loose! Crazy. I’m now a firm believer in PB Blaster but I’m going to try Liquid Wrench now too. Great video sir!
Only 4 years after the posting and I watch this video, but really entertaining. I just wanted to share that a product I've been using for years and love over anything else I can think of is called Tri-Flow. It comes in a black and orange can and when you shake it there's a mixing ball inside the can similar to what you'd hear when shaking a spray paint can. Thanks for all the hard work you do Project Farm!
Being a master automotive technician I also have utilized all the products you did minus the acetone and transmission fluid mixture. From day to day 35 year hands-on experience I came up with the same conclusion that you did. It was an interesting show down to say the least. Thank you.
Thanks for another great objective product testing. As an engineer, I can appreciate your scientific and non-biased methodology. Keep these videos coming.
What field of engineering are you in? Some of PF's tests have merit, but this one is too small to be significant. Just look at the variance within each product.
@@DouglasGross6022 I have degrees in civil and environmental engineering and PE license. For a one man shop I think he's doing a great job and trying to be as objective as possible.
This was really interesting for me. I grew up on a dairy farm and we always had Liquid Wrench around. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it did so well. Great channel. Thank you
I'm in my 60's, and my dad was using Liquid Wrench when I was a little kid, so it has been around a long time. I have used other stuff over the years, but never found anything that work as well - and so consistently, as the original Liquid Wrench.
Also, worth mentioning is to heat the nut and not the bolt. The idea being that the circumference of the nut will increase and separate from the bolt and break the 'seal' formed by the rust/etc. Yes, the bolt will get hot and expand as well, so if you've never done it before, heat the nut for a bit and then try to remove it. Lather, rinse, repeat.
I wouldn't contradict your experience that it works better as im not a mechanic, but the explanation confuses me. When you heat a metal, for example a nut, it expands in all directions, ie. it increases in volume. So the outside dimension increases in "radius" and the inside shrinks in radius. When the bolt gets hot it just gets bigger. The final effect is that the brittle rust gets squished between the surfaces and breaks its adhesion to the metal loosening the bolt after it cools again and all the surfaces shrink again. Does that make sense? Or do I have it wrong?
String Larson - That's exactly what I was always taught, BUT just recently I was attempting to remove a pitman arm and heated the nut for about a half hour and couldn't get the impact wrench to budge it. I then said #! and heated the arm itself for about 5 min and was able to break the nut in 5 seconds. Counter intutive I know BUT DAMN!
@@clutions Yeah, once the 'rust' essentially, fuses the parts, to a point where the heat applied will transfer from the nut to the bolt at the same rate as thru the clean nut. it can get/does get pointless. Time to rebuild from new. The other thing to consider is that the strength of a say steel rod/bar/etc. degrades exponentially depending on the integrity of the initial material. As a simple example (and if I recall correctly) a 1/2 inch rod with 1/16 inch off corrosion will have a non-linear reduction in "strength" (shear, tension, torsion, etc.) This is important for many reasons not least of which is if one has a torque rating on a bolt and wants to mount a new nut, or of that works, whether or not that bolt/nut will hold up under required conditions. etc. etc. etc. etc
2 year old video and still replying to comments. That’s dedication to your subscribers. You’re doing an amazing job and definitely deserve more recognition. I’m still working my way down your video list as I recently found your page about a week ago. Wish I would’ve discovered your page sooner! Keep up the fantastic work!
Excellent video....as always. Thank you. I used to use WD 40, then Liquid Wrench, then ordinary gun oil/cleaner. Honestly, none of these things seemed to work for me. Finally, while I was in a small engine repair shop one of the mechanics told me about PB Blaster....he said it was the best he had found. So, I immediately went and bought some PB Blaster, took it home, and applied it to the stuck bolt in the aluminum trans case of by pos John Deere riding mower. After an hour I tried to loosen the stuck bolt....nothing. I sprayed again, waited another hour....nothing. Finally, I gave up, sprayed the stuck bolt again, and let it sit over night. So, the next day, just before I was going to light the fuse to the stick of dynamite I had waiting for the JD, I decided to try to loosen the stuck bolt one final time. Amazingly, as soon as I put the socket to the bolt, it simply turned....and was loose. The clouds parted, a bright beam of sunlight shone down, and the nearly departed pos John Deere mower had "new life"....and a new name...."Lazarus". So, I have been using PB Blaster all these years since then and, of the products I have tried, I highly recommend the PB Blaster over any others I have used
I love PB Blaster because you can shoot it across the driveway and lube that nut under your truck before you crawl under there to wrestle with it. Also helpful when defending yourself against the wasp nest you discover once you get underneath there.
I have always been a huge fan of PB but I felt this was a well done, honest comparison video. I just watched part 2 as well. Excellent job, thanks for posting these. I will still keep good old PB on hand but would also consider Liquid Wrench in the future based on this video. I keep WD40 around for indoor stuff where I dont want to a big mess blasting it with PB.
@@trailblogger PB blaster is crap. Everybody around here uses it and I just laugh at them. It stinks to high hell and barely does anything. Try ZEP45. It's expensive but definitely worth it.
@@deeznutz2646 I agree about PB Blaster. It's absolutely useless. I didn't bother finishing the video but after 30 years experience turning wrenches... The absolute BEST penetrating oil made is AC rust penatrant #88862628. You can buy it for $13 at any GM dealer. I've tried every brand out there including 50/50 ATF & acetone. ZEP & Aerokroil are ok but the AC lube is the only thing that truly works. Closest second is industrial liquid wrench.
I am always impressed by your thoroughness, and your attention to details in the testing processes. You may not be a scientist, but you sure think like one.
Copy Imitation it’s possible no penetrating products would do the job 4 u. I’ve had times when heat was the solution 4 me after trying penetrants unsuccessfully. Have a nice day
@@kennithmorella2693 a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF did the job almost instantly.. The rust started to liquefy and melt off. I sprayed the liquid wrench on the bolts multiple times, And not once did i see any rust start to liquefy.
Dear PF, I have a couple of things to say. First, you are doing well with your videos and performance progression. Your voice has more energy in it in newer videos. Good on you, sir. Second, I saw that you had replied to a comment from a few months ago. I've never heard of a TH-camr doing that, let alone seen it. Thank you for your dedication. PSA over. Keep up the good work!
I've always been a fan of Liquid Wrench (or fire wrench when you can), and was happy to see it do well. One thing you could add is that tapping on the nut or bolt after you've applied the penetrating oil makes a helpful difference most of the time. Thanks for the video. *:D*
yes I was going to say the same thing, tapping on the nut/bolt, liquid wrench used to have that printed on the can. Only thing else I want to say is I use wd-40 on spark plug threads and have never had a spark plug seize in a head
I found a real excellent way to use liquid wrench on both oxygen sensors and exhaust bolts. First drive the car and get it hot. Next, spray the bolt, nut or sensor with Liquid Wrench. It generally smokes a bit. Let the car sit for 15 minutes. Spray again, let sit for another 15 minutes, spray again and let sit for about an hour. Now try to remove the nuts and bolts and they will generally come off. I was amazed at how much easier exhaust bolts and especially oxygen sensors were to remove when doing this. Yea, it takes a couple hours of prep with Liquid Wrench, but it has proven to be worth the effort and wait several times for me.
One thing I know about Liquid Wrench is never use it on door latches or window regulators. I lubricated my door latches over a year ago and the Terrible smell is still in my car like I did it yesterday. Liquid ranch is OK for engines or exhaust where is the smell doesn’t matter
If you step back and think about it, that makes a lot of sense. In past experiences if left alone brake fluid will eat it's way through almost anything if left untouched. I've seen it eat paint off the firewall of an $80,000 hotrod because the owner didn't know it was leaking and couldn't see it until the motor was removed for refresh.
I was shocked to see how the KANO finished in your test. Because I can say without a doubt, Kano has saved the day when NOTHING ELSE would help. But then Again, I wasn’t always dealing with a simple rusted nut/thread. It would just climb into everything . From heavily cooked on carbon coated or aged/hardened grease, and other unknown thread locking substances. But then I’m still using Kano from the 50 gallon drum my dad rolled home with back in 1984!! I bet these days there may possibly be a different ingredient or two to make it epa friendly. I like your videos! Great work!
I've used liquid wrench since I was a child in the early 1950's. My dad was an auto mechanic, and I still remember an old can of liquid wrench in a cabinet in the garage. I guess the smell of that product is what takes me back to my childhood! It's not a bad smell, but it is distinctively liquid wrench. I stopped into Tractor supply today to get some liquid wrench. They had three kinds of liquid wrench, but they were out of the "ORIGINAL liquid wrench. I guess everyone in Dripping Springs Texas watched this TH-cam video!!
I was born around the same time as you and Liquid Wrench is all I’ve used and always got good results. I prefer the squeeze can because you can put it right on the bolt instead of spraying half a can into the atmosphere. The squeeze can lasts a lot longer. Did any of these other products even exist then?
I would be interested to see these same products used as a rust preventative. take new nuts and bolts soaked in the different Pen-oils the put them in an environment which would normally cause them to rust.
I have a motor mount bolt stuck in the metal sleeve through the bushing. I was using PB Blaster to try to cut through the rust, then saw Liquid Wrench tested better, and I happen to have a can of that as well. These videos are still useful years later!
projext farm i aint even in to this sort of stuff but im addicted i love how you talk to your viewers you explain to a point where you don't dumb it down or over complicate it your a legend :D
Kroil almost smells like Pine Sol or a cleaning solution. You’ll actually not be bothered by the smell and results for me are opposite of what’s shown here. Kroil is my he’s y hitter when WD40 and PB blaster just aren’t cutting it. Kroil had worked wonders
@@patrickmcwilliams3957 PB stinks so bad that it is wholly intolerable to me. And the smell gets on you so you stink like it does all day long. Not worth it for a mediocre penetrant.
PB Blaster. Used it for the first time while trying to break axles free from a rusted wheel bearing assembly. Used several cans of Liquid Wrench without results. Bought a single can of PB Blaster and it worked. I was able to remove the axles without too much trouble.
I am a kroil fan because I use it on 650 degree valves on the spindle threads and collar. Once worked in, it allows the best turning of a 36" valve than any other safe lube. It doesn't evaporate as quick; yet, is light enough to penetrate and lube it. Try turning a valve 990 turns to open it, then you will see...
Heat with a propane or mapp torch for appx. 30 secs. Then apply penetrating oil. The heat sucks it in instantly. I bent a breaker bar recently trying to remove rusted bolts under my truck. Heated then sprayed and VIOLA, nuts came off fairly easy with a little effort. I was very impressed. But be careful working above you when you spray the penetrant onto the heated metal it drips hot oil on you. So position yourself to the side.
No, it just evaporates the volatile contents of the penetrant. (EVOC) The heat loosened up the bolt more than the penetrant did . Heat expands allowing the oil to get in. But you don't always have the option of using an open flame. like a hanger strap on a gas tank or brake line near the same. Just FYI
@@agr8dane1 you can with a hotter torch. But what I said was the heat allowed the oil to get in due to heat expansion. Ever put a ring gear on a flywheel? You're not wrong just explaining.
Hah, I didn't know it was good at wasp killing, I'll have to remember that next time I cant find the wasp killer and find myself grabbing random solvents from the shelf to fight one. LOL
@@helgedell PB blaster and WD40 both have their purposes and different scenarios. However I’m sure most on this channel have both in their garage. Both are winning and WD40 been around forever.
I work on vintage sewing machines that are 50 to 100 years old and I fine that Kroil and heat work the best to free seized small nuts and screws. WD40 and Liquid Wrench were better than nothing but least effective. PB Blaster was more effective, but my go to penetration is Kroil.
Interesting video.. I have been a mechanic for over 40 years and have found that Kroil works best sometimes and other times it just doesn’t work at all.. (and Kroil STINKS when heated !) PB blaster has never worked very well for me.. but some friends love the stuff! Liquid Wrench penetrates well if you have a GOOD can of it, but from my experiencd, their quality control is bad.. I have had aerosol cans that barely worked, cans that smelled like stale Kerosene and others that worked well. Straight Kerosene can work as well as most of them in a pinch. Kerosene and Acetone works too.. But again, it is smelly.. ATF & Acetone works impressively well most of the time.. but you need to make a new batch when needed, not much shelf life! Proper use of a hammer to relieve stress on the threads and tried and true methods are ultra important.. Just spraying it on and turning hard is not the successful way to remove a stuck nut or bolt ! Find one you like.. Kroil is expensive and at times seems to be worth whatever it costs because it can save you time and money, but like I said, other times it simply doesn’t work at all.. Not all metals are the same, oxidation is not always the same.. Experience is more important than the chemicals from a can !
You know. I love Kroil! I'm a gunsmith and I have a little different situation than most penetrent users. I might have a firearm that is very old (100, 200 or more years old) but I have time to let it be. I will soak a part down with Kroil and work on something else for a day or two. This really works well but most situations for a product like this wouldn't allow that. A lot of things I'm working on have parts that just aren't available and I have to either save the part or make a new one. Other things that work well for me are heat, shock and Vibration. I have soaked things down with kroil and then tied them to my air compressor for a day or two. Helps in some situations. Best help is like you say experience. Patience goes a long way, keep trying different things and resist the temptation to force things. Y'all Take Care, John
So now you need to mix all of them together and see what the out come is. Also see the results when the oxidation is inhanced by salt. You know road salt from winter. Great video
maybe even do a setup like this and biweekly soak the test pieces in a strong road salt solution over the spring and summer for a winter road salt special in the fall. IIRC calcium chloride is especially damaging to untreated metal. I really enjoy your videos and their practicality to hobbyists and DIYers. Thanks for the hard work.
Brandon Allen sorry fella but salt dont do it. its salt thay aytracts water and holds it against metal and water has oxygen in it that actually dose the dirty deed.
This is a comprehensive presentation. Especially appreciate the charts of cost, AND performance of these bolt looseners/rust dissolvers. Looks like there is a reason that I have been using Liquid Wrench for over two decades. THANK YOU, Project Farm. Now I can go work on my Volvo and my Toyota Matrix!!! And I work on both cars, AND computers. Well done, sir!
I'm in the same boat. Have half a gallon of Silikroil left, so I got a couple more years before I can justify buying something else though. At least when I do my wife will finally stop complaining about the smell in the garage from when I use it.
One parameter you didn't consider in your test protocol was the 'country of origin' of the steel used for the studs and lug nuts. The trace elements in iron ore mined from around the globe varies, along with the "mix" of other elements (like carbon, molybdenum, & chromium) that are added during production of the steel will vary in different countries; as with German Steel, and Soligen Steel most notably. I started "wrenching" in the 1960's and retired in the late 90's. For many years I was using Liquid Wrench, but when I got into specializing in Japanese-origin cars in my own shop I found that Liquid Wrench didn't work as with Domestic cars for freeing up rusted fasteners. And that was backed up by the difference in using an oxy/ace cutting torch to "blow off" rusted exhaust nuts while being able to not damage an exhaust manifold or the stud with cars built in different countries. Yeah, I always seemed to get the cars where fastener's had been rounded off with a worn out or cheap socket during a prior repair or were rusted so badly that the correct size socket was very loose fitting, and the best tool was a torch used by someone who knew what the hell they were doing and to just melt it off. I saw the difference in the color of the flame when melting off the nuts on cars made in various countries. Oh yeah, I live in a rust-belt state where road salt took its toll on everything that didn't retain paint for long or got too hot to hold paint like exhaust systems pre-stainless steel exhaust systems that needed to be replaced every 2 to 4 years almost like clock-work from the cat back. And before cats, the whole system was usually installed rather then the client saying "but you just fixed my exhaust system 6 months ago" when only the rear was done and now the headpipe was making noise. I did the whole system and saved the labor costs for 2 partial repairs. Bottom line - I found that WD-40 worked best with Toyota, Nissan, and other Asian-origin vehicles. And at my local shop owners trade organization meetings I found that the European-car specialists swore by PB-Blaster as being the best. Tried PB-Blaster in a few VW's and Fiat's that I got 'roped into' working on by regular Toyota-owner clients of mine for their 2nd car or 'kids car' and found that to be the best for those brands. Worked on few domestic cars (too large for my small bays) once I opened my own shop in 1975, but I stuck with Liquid Wrench on those; neither PB-Blaster nor WD-40 worked as good. Bottom line, there is no 'best to use' across the board. The metallurgy involved with the steel presents a variable which involves the origin of the fasteners. So, in this day and age a technician almost needs to view the VIN to determine the country of assembly and hope or assume that the fasteners installed at the factory were sourced locally in that country. Call it a SWAG - Scientific Wild Assed Guess to determine what might work best for each vehicle that rolls thru the door. Just discovered your channel. I commend you for taking the time to actually test the various and look forward to the 2nd video.
You definitely deserve to be prideful of your videos Bud. Not only is everything that you're saying very interesting, but your videos are also very informative to consumers that are laymen when it comes to the knowledge that you present. Keep up the good work. I'm glad I found your videos.
Awesome presentation and review of these products you are the absolute best at these types of products reviews. You show no actual bias and only tell the outcome of your tests and they are done super professionally. And your English is spoken clearly and understandable and you only use words that the average layman can understand. No big fancy words that are not understandable. Thank you for your awesome presentations and hard work.
Also, he has the intelligence to be able to express himself without swearing or using vulgarities. So refreshing! It's nice to be able to refer my grandchildren to this channel without worrying about what they'll hear.
As a former millwright there is one tried and true that you did not use, the hammer! The old adage of it that don’t work get a bigger hammer (there is a modicum of truth to that). If you whack on a rusted up bolt or nut a few times you will always loosen it up a bit! That’s why impacts work soo well! You came up with the same results as old uncle bumblefuck did! AVE!!!
Project farm: yes very true, if you read my other comment on here you will see I never mention the hammer method, but yes in some applications just the good old beat the tar out of it a bit can work wonders, also if you hold one hammer on the back side of the stuborn nut as an anvil then smack the other side of the nut with a different hammer sometimes is even more effective yet (transmits more of the force and vibrations directly into the nut so it would seem), or another trick is to concentrate the hammers force by using a metal cutting chisle to really concentrate the force of the hammer in a very small area on the side of the nut, this will cause the nut to be mechanically expanded ever so slightly and many times be rather easy to remove after doing so, you just need to not mess up the fastener to the point where a wrench will no longer fit it, anyhow good luck on those stuborn fastners my friend lol.
Yeah! Me, being a cheap ass when buying "Liquid Wrench" over 10WD40...it pays off. Thank you for doing the test studies... Much appreciate... Keeps up the excellent tests.
Joseph Marciniak I've only ever used Kroil because that's just what my shop buys but this was eye opening. I showed this to my boss and now we are going to try Liquid Wrench. We rebuild antenna tilt machines on navy ships, so there are DEFINITELY some nasty bolts that I have to deal with.
BlowDiamond I'm a mechanic in Pennsylvania and I've been using PB Blaster for years. If I can find Liquid Wrench locally, I'll certainly give it a shot. The salt they throw on the roads really corrodes things. Its damn near impossible to work on older cars here without a torch.
For 20 years, I've listened to fellow Jeepers argue whether PB Blaster was better than Liquid Wrench. I always leaned towards PB, but this changes my mind. Thanks for all of your videos, you do a great job with them!
Great test. Glad to see most of my assumptions confirmed i.e. Liquid Wrench = best, WD-40 mid point. I hear heat advocated ALL THE TIME, impressive difference. But you're right, heat is not always an option, either due to possible damage to paint, electrical, combustibles/volatiles (fuel lines, brake lines), etc. adjacent to target fasteners or seized parts; of just plane not having any heat capability such as roadside tire change or repair/replacement of other automotive parts.
Great Job! Love your videos. I’m a yacht engineer and I can honestly say that people in the industry have seen your videos and heard of you. You’re making a useful impact and I appreciate it. Keep them coming!
Don't often comment on these, but watch faithfully..and like as well. That said must admit I'm a Kroil user in the past (always the liquid form though, never the spray) after using it at the large Manufacturing shop where I apprenticed, and worked for yrs. as a Maintenance Mechanic, and think it works well in certain situations, but not this one. Do trust in your process and integrity as you're not 'sponsored' by anyone, or trying to sell us something, and that means a lot. Can't deny the results I see on this video, and wonder if Kerosene mixed w/some synthetic ATF would make a good penetrating solution. The sad part of this video is I recently bought a can of PB Blaster for the 1st time, and know it's not good, it's just common, and will keep these results in mind when purchasing in the future.
I like the Kerosene/ATF idea! I was hoping Kroil would do better, since I haven't been all that impressed with the others over the years. I'm always looking for great products!
I have used the liquid kroil in a maintenance mechanic role as well and can say from my personal experience that it does some pretty amazing stuff on some serious rust that we'd think we were going to have to just torch some of the bolts off. That said I respect the "science" behind this test and appreciate the effort that went into it! In the application that I would use it we would only have given a soak time of 5 minutes max with several liberal applications of the liquid kroil.
PB blaster has saved me many times over the years, and in situations when nothing else would. And if pb didn't do it then kroil would, and usually if one of those 2 dont work nothing is going too and it's time for the blue wrench.
Thank you for all your testing and excellent reviews. I immensely enjoy your videos and recommendations. Being a retired merchant marine engineer, we have had plenty of exposure with rusty fasteners on sea going ships. One of the major enemies to seafaring ships are salt water and sea spray. At one time or another we have used all the penetrants you have tested in your video (except the home brew). The top two we found to be most successful was the Kroil and the PB Blaster. The Kroil we would get in one gallon cans the PB Blaster in 5 gallon cans. The most unique thing we found with Kroil and PB Blaster was its effectiveness was almost immediately where as for the others they required a soak time.
I’ve noticed when I used penetrating oil and finally get the nut off the bolt the threads that was under the nut are dry. Maybe you could try this again and take the nuts completely off the bolts to see which oil actually penetrated all the way. I also noticed that your bolts and nuts only have “surface rust” . If your setup was outside in a natural environment for a long period of time say a year or two you would be more likely to snap the bolt or strip the threads. But in my opinion, heat would be the best if able to use safely.
Liberty Barker if your able to get a nut splitter on your rusted nut then that may be an option. Another way may work is using a 4-1/2” grinder with a cut off wheel and make a slotted cut (like for a flat tip screwdriver) through bolt threads and nut but don’t go too deep to damage boat. Then use a small chisel to split the rest. And may I recommend using some anti-seize on the new bolt threads, this helps keep moisture and rust from forming. A third option ( if you can get to both sides of nut/bolt) is to keep tightening it up till it twists apart (two impacts if possible). But if only option is penetrating oil I would give nut/bolt a little twist, spray oil, twist, spray...repeat. Hope this helps you out.
Interesting video! I am an automotive student and in our shop, all we use is PB Blaster, and that is all I have also used for years now. I may have to give Liquid Wrench a try! This is a very unrealistic test though. I do not know of anyone in the automotive industry that has time to apply 3 coats of penetrating fluid with an hour of soaking in between to free up a stuck bolt. Realistically one coat is applied, then attempted to remove after 5-10 minutes. This would be a more real world test for this type of product, but I guess if you are just a DIY repair person with plenty of time, this is a good approach. Great video though!
Koorite if you read my comment I say PB Blaster hands down. Its What every REAL PRO will reach for... And WD40 Is for Newbies and Walmart shoppers... I havnt had a use for WD40 Since i was 13 and im 40 now... WD40 Shouldnt even be in the lineup... Regardless, when you find something that works on EVERYTHING and youve never needed to look any futher... then WHY LOOK ANY FUTHER... Try PB Blaster and youll be set for life. I use it as my all around pen oil and rust gaurd... All my tools get wiped down with it after a hard use before storage. Plus 1 can last forever and a prick year... The Can ive got now ive had about 8 years. It doesnt take much at all and it last.
DrJones yeah, i know WD40 is junk. i currently only use pb blaster now and it works great, but this video showed that liquid wrench is also a good penetrating fluid, so i would like to give it a try since i have never used it!
Hi Project Farm, I just discovered this video of yours - I wish we had tested this in engineering. Frozen fasteners is a common if not contagious ailment on equipment failure investigation (and farm equipment maintenance). Thank you so much for your scientific and practical testing. Ciao, L (Pointue Farms)
This is probably the best product review channel on the internet. I refer many people that are looking to buy products to your channel - let the data speak for itself. WRT the penetrating fluids, I have used Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Sea Foam and PB Blaster - none of them work. Heat, when I can use it, is my best friend. Because of a dry rotted tire, I recently had to remove a wheel on one of my trailers and the nuts were rusted. The wheels hadn't been removed in 30 years. I tried all of my leftover cans of penetrating fluids and none of them worked. I applied them to the lug nuts every day for one week and still had to use a breaker bar. Upon inspection, I observed that the fluid did not penetrate past the first thread or two. I have several cans of chemicals if someone wants to stop by and pick them up!
In most real life scenarios, rust compromises the integrity of the metal specially on smaller nuts and bolts. Which is why so many of them strip. CRC Freeze-Off, a blow torch and an extractor is usually my go to when a rust job really wants to test me. Love all your vids!
@@gizzyguzzi Most of the praise I hear for Kroil is for large stuck pieces like mower/etc wheels stuck to axles, etc with large and deep contact areas that require a lot more time to soak in, maybe a week before it'll come off without having to cut the rim or axle even with a gear puller and a torch. These results are pretty interesting but generally you wouldn't even be using these products on anything that you could torque off at all unlike the controls. I mean how stuck are the rest if they cranked off by hand even with a breaker bar? I'd find it more definitive if the first 4 left untreated needed an impact wrench and/or snapped a bolt or two.
It’s quite interesting over the years of having a large shop and using different products, that sometimes the sales of the different penetrating oils and their slogans seem draw us to gravitate towards one over the other, especially the one with the capillary action! There’s always the proof is in the pudding over sales gimmicks! Great review I enjoyed it : )
I just used PB Blaster on rusted banjo bolts on my master cylinder. Worked great! That's what brought me to this video, very surprised with these results!
I have seen obvious great results 3x from PB Blaster. I have heard brake fluid works but have not tried it. I am going to buy the winner of this contest and try it.
I'm from the NE/ Midwest. Everybody swears by PB Blaster for loosening rusted hardware. Of course, it helps to keep it from rusting in the first place. Undercoating is a scam. I've never used it and probably never will. Just keep your car clean, including underneath. And lubricate other devices as needed.
As an aircraft mechanic for American Airlines we also typically use Kroil as many have stated. I was surprised at how bad it actually is. They probably haven't changed the formula in a very long time thou. What we have found is that Dye Penetrant or in our particular case the Fluorescent Penetrants work phenomenally! These penetrants have different classes, I-IV, with IV being the best and their capillary action is better than any thing we have found. This stuff has to find really tiny cracks in different materials so it gets in the threads of nuts/bolts with no issues. Unfortunately it is messy, especially the fluorescent kind. Also maybe you could design some type of test to try to visually see the capillary action of these materials. Maybe plates of plexiglass together and see how far it can "creep" between the two? In this type of test you could theorize which one is best with a constant application of the product. Could also be worth checking the application directions for each product. I know that I was always told to spray Kroil every few minutes because as you noted it evaporated quickly. Apply the penetrants horizontally because you can't always get that good soak in real applications. Great video.
festerallday - We use LPS 1, 2, & 3. We typically only use them for lubrication purposes thou, never really tried them as a Penetrant to break things loose.
crunch9876 - I have heard so many people make the same claim but in my own real world testing Kroil works alot of the time but if it's really stuck the Fluorescent Penetrant works way better. This is also the 2nd video I've seen that Kroil has done either the worst or almost the worst. I've been at my job for over 10 years and my experience has been the same as the videos.
Yep - you tested my 2 go-to methods. Heat, and acetone/ATF. Works out great, since I'm cheap. When in doubt, heat always works. It's either coming off ... or she's gonna bust. :) Great study man! THANKS!!
Long time follower here. Was going to mix up some acetone and ATF but wanted to check on your page first. Got the answers I was looking for! Thanks for all that you do!
Great channel! I really appreciate the way you lay out your tests and your great attitude in general. You always see the way to get consistency and validity with your test parameters. I've been recommending Liquid Wrench for about 30 years now. Nothing works better on the tough fasteners. Nice to have you demonstrate it. The old formula was stronger, but nasty smell!
I just tried to buy some and everyone is sold out. The nearest Home Depot that has it is 400 miles away, Walmart is completely out, Menard's is out...never mind. Found it at Fleet Farm for less than half the price.
Hey that was excellent and fair. I've learned that you really try hard and succeed to be equal to all the products. I appreciate and trust your efforts. Great Job and I'm going to use your recommendations!!
Great video. As you stated, penetrating fluids do very little. That has been my experience in over 40 years of messing with every rusted thing I found. I use WD40 to keep critters out of my stored equipment and to offset corrosion in my mower decks. Great for control cables as well.
I'm sure it all depends on the conditions too, dirt, oil, heat, weather, etc. Kroil might work better for your work than others. Too many different variable in the real world to really tell :D
I agree on the PB Blaster. I use it all the time. I restore old cars for a living, so I've encountered many rusted fasteners. PB Blaster is the only one that I can see actually dissolving the rust when applied. Wire brushing the fastener before applying any penetrant will help. Kroil worked well for me in freeing up a rusted stuck engine. Poured Kroil in the cylinders and let it sit a couple days. I think Blaster would work well for that too, and I am going to try it in another old engine in a few months. The other products have not been useful for old, rusted fasteners for me. I keep some WD40 around for light lubrication use, but it's not useful for serious rust.
Letting a penetrant soak for several hours may be a solution for some of us. I restore classic cars, letting things soak overnight is preferable to snapping bolts in castings, especially aluminium ones.
mick coomer I used KROIL on the exhaust of my 78 mustang. Shot some on the exhaust studs once every 6 hours for 3 days and then nearly backed the nut off by hand
this was very helpful. I just got tasked with cleaning and repairing a bunch of mop handles. They have those little threaded bars used to clamp down on the mop head. They are rusted beyond belief.
@@ProjectFarm Can you do one on automotive hard grade bolts, I see some that are galvanized some that are chrome and some gold type paint and blacked out. Can you do testing to see which fair better against salt and moisture and which are actually stronger. please and thank you.
OMG! I love this video! Thank you so much for taking the time to show a truly complete test, with a control set and averages of four tests each. Clearly it took a lot of time and effort to devise this test, then to set it up (dissoving the zinc! oxiding the metal!), then to show the results in a definitive way. I'm subscribing!
Interesting. Over the past 50 plus years I've used most of those at one time or another plus Marvel Mystery Oil which has perfomed well on steel to steel applications but for freeing up disimilar metals I've had the best results from Kroil by far. Years ago I had a steel fitting that was seized in a very rare aluminum intake manifold and had about given up hope of getting it out. I ahd tried PB Blaster, WD-40, MMO, etc. with no luck. I took it to my buddy's repair shop , he walked over to his tool box and came back with this beat up old can and sprayed around the fitting. He then went to the fridge and came back with 2 beers and told me to have a seat. We finished the beers and he got up and clamped the fitting in the vice and told me to pull on the manifold, there was a split second of resistance and then it broke free and came right out. That was my introduction to Kroil, i bught my own can that same day and have kept it on hand ever since.
I keep almost all of these around. I've found that none of them seem to be a one size fits all solution. I also like Permetex Liquid Penetrant. When I have a nut that won't break loose after a quick spritz of PB Blaster (the cheapest these days), I pull out the rest and start spraying away.
Video recommendation: Which spark plug is best. Test different spark plug brands like NGK, champion, autolite, etc. as they are around 2 dollars a piece and not expensive across one engine like a predator 212. Measure engine temperature, RPM, fuel economy, and performance. Thanks!
First thought is that the fancy plugs might not perform measurably better but last longer. The iridium plugs have a skinny center electrode that is supposed to produce a better spark and last over 100,000 miles.
Fantastic! I've never known a mechanic to believe in penetrating oil at all, but it's really cool to see that while most of them, indeed, did basically nothing (most of the bottom ranked ones didn't seem to actually do better in a statistically significant sense), Liquid Wrench really blew my mind! What a great product! Of course, nothing beats good ol' molecular motion. Just uh...
I've been turning wrenches for a living for 12 years and I never don't have a can of PB Blaster on my Roll Cart. Looks like I may have to give liquid wrench a shot. I'd rather spend 10$ on a can of oil than spend 2 hours extracting broken exhaust bolts. Thank god I dont work on northern rust belt shipwrecks. Or I woulda quit doing this after 2 weeks.
@@barefootalien Only worked in 1 shop that even had a torch. Tried to bring my own to more than one dealer I worked at and they said hell no. Just not a problem we deal with down here. Thank god.
@@EvlEgle That's wild! A torch was considered mandatory equipment up north! We even kept backup bottles in case we went through them and couldn't get a delivery right away. Like you, a lot of the time people just wouldn't risk breaking or rounding off bolts, and would torch right away, like you do with penetrating oil. Very interesting, the difference in culture, though. I wonder _why_ the dealerships didn't want them... maybe they thought they were a liability for damaging cars? Which... I mean, they are, but no more than most other tools, and considerably less-so than a drive-on alignment or oil change rack. xD Like I said earlier, the only cars where the torch was a problem were Saabs, which often have neat little rubber flap seals around the engine bay for things like tie rods to go through. Really neat design, kept the engine bay pretty clean, but also tended to melt or catch on fire when a torch had to be used, especially to free up an outer tie rod end for alignments. Not that they hit the seals with the torch, just that the tie rod end would get hot enough to melt them.
@@EvlEgle By the way, I hope _you_ weren't buying the cans of penetrating oil... that's exactly what the "shop supplies" line on the invoices is for, to cover incidentals like that, like oxy/acetylene fuel usage, etc. In my shops, at least, if someone _did_ want some PB Blaster, _I_ ordered it, for the shop. Same with torch fuel and the torch itself. Heh, then again I did used to get in trouble from the higher-ups for such "frivolous" expenses, like the time I spent all of $80 on a vacuum brake bleed system so I wouldn't have to have a Tech 1 up in a lifted car to pump the brakes for 20 minutes at a time. At their hourly rate alone, to say nothing of the profit they weren't generating while they were up there, the thing would've paid itself off in under 20 brake jobs, but upper management can be remarkably short-sighted sometimes...
I've never had alot of luck with penetrating oils for stuck and rusted fasteners, I prefer kroil though for lubricating everything else, especially any kind of hinge, pivot point or mechanism. Seems to last the longest and do a better job loosening sticky joints. And I've tried all the ones you tested out here, but liquid wrench I always thought was a pretty good alternative which you proved here.
Back in the day, (about 1960) the maintenance guys used the liquid that settled from the heat treating furnace's huge natural gas line's "drip leg" to free stuck bolts. I wonder if Liquid Wrench is similar. As another poster said, it sure does smell like it. Gee- I have been using PB Blaster as my go-to solution for quite a while. But, come think of it, I often still have to go the "heat" route if that doesn't work. I use induction heaters when a flame isn't feasible, by the way.
PB Blaster has been my go-to as well, sadly it didn't do too well. I had heard that using heat could compromise the strength of the bolts, not sure if that's true.
@@da7heaven Re: "I had heard that using heat could compromise the strength of the bolts, not sure if that's true." Yes, I am certain that it IS true, unless you know for sure that the bolt is made from steel that is too low in alloy to be hardened or tempered. I particularly cringe when I see someone heating automobile suspension parts to a red glow. If the bolt is replaced by a new known-to-be-correct one, that would be okay. On the other hand, using heat on exhaust manifold parts doesn't bother me.
Thank you so much for this video, I always loved liquid wrench but my friends loved PB blaster. Now i can send this video to them and prove my point. :)
I love your videos. Keep up the good work. When I was a kid every house had a small can of 3 in 1oil as surely as they had a bottle of aspirin. While I know that it does not claim to be a penetrant, it should at least get an honorable mention for those that have to "MacGyver" in a pinch. lol
Great test.. lots of fun. TBH all those consumer products tested about the same, except Liquid Wrench. .The differences between the rest are so small it can be attributed in variances in the rust buildup and your own test methods... At the nuke plants we use oil of wintergreen on the reactor head studs (hi strength CS) prior to removal.. wonder how that compares? We have to use it because of chemical limitations (chlorides etc).
I have used the second place for a long time. We put it in a 4 cylinder engine that was frozen. 3 days of letting it soak the engine turned over. I enjoyed your show. Thank You
Great test. I’m an auto tech and was shocked that Kroil scored low. Surprised at Liquid Wrench. I use Kroil but will try LW next time first to save my Kroil supply.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you all for suggesting this penetrating oil showdown! Best regards, Todd
AeroKroil: amzn.to/3jaWGiJ
Liquid Wrench: amzn.to/32dX7Sw
PB Blaster: amzn.to/31igfPW
Royal Purple: amzn.to/2QfbuA6
WD-40: amzn.to/2Eh0BLY
Can you do a Best Carb Cleaner video?!
You're the best Todd no kidding.
Keith Kuhn
Question: can you use a heat gun to loose bolts?
You know like the torch?
In the auto repair business for 35 years , HOWES is the only pen. oil that NEVER failed , sometimes worked in minutes !! Cant find in Cali anymore .
@@sawthemin77
I just did a Google search hoses is out there.
But expensive
This man still replies to comments after 2 years... that’s awesome 👍
Thanks for watching!
Either that or his script bot does :-)
@@TheMadMagician87 haha you're right.
Yeah it is. I'm sub to like 3 channels and this is one of them. This guy's content is great.
I like that too when they reply back that means a lot.
He is number one in my book.
I work at a hardware store that sells a lot of the products you test. I’ve actually been referring unsure customers to your videos to help them decide what to get. Absolutely love your channel!
Thanks so much!
Here is a man that cares about his job and his customers!!
Can you do a video on the best spray paints
Doing God's work 🙏 most would just say something out their a** or say the most expensive thing
@@tauraigwishiri1794 not sure what youre trying to paint, but its mainly all about prep work... but SEM is a superior brand, $17.99+ a can
I hope you never get tired of doing these tests. As someone with both limited knowledge and funds. It's easy to be lured to buy the "best" (Most expensive) . I'll take function over form every time. Your channel helps.
Thank you very much!!
@@ProjectFarm same with me. Thank you for doing this and all the other videos. sub'd
I agree. "Truth is where you find it!" I guess I'll park my Kroil and replenish my supply of Liquid Wrench next trip to the auto parts store!
Most of you guys are living in the west with all brands you can think of. For other people living in a third world country we are lucky when we get WD40. It is fun to watch these tests but far from reality here I am in Uganda.
@@happyjohn8256 I am from Norway but have been living in Africa for 18 years.
WD-40 is available in cities but by experience we have been using break fluid or diesel for penetrating rusted nuts and bolts.
Propane or oxy-acetylene for heating is only available in the cities.
I enjoy watching your videos for numerous reasons. I'm a mechanic & have been almost all my life & there are many methods to removing frozen or rusted hardware.
( 1 ) PB Blaster is JUNK & the product often runs out of Aresol leaving over a 1/4 remaining in the can.
RESOLVE: I use a AC puncture handle & empty the remainder into a spray bottle.
( 2 ) WD40 is JUNK- Over time if you do a test, you'll find that the surface of the stuck / rusted whatever will get much worse, especially if left out in the elements.
RESOLVE: Don't waste your money!
( 3 ) Gasoila - Works great but only if you have time & soak the problem repeatedly, that's with most other products.
( 4 ) FreeAll - I've used it a few times but it's VERY expensive & honestly doesn't provide a value at all.
( 5 ) Liquid Wrench - In my opinion & the millions of time I've used it is MUCH BETTER than all the other brands. As for the cost, it depends on where you can get it.
I've found with most that if you have time & consistantly keep soaking it that almost any product is better than none. The conditions & temperatures & exposure all play a part in the demise as well.
EXCELLENT CONTENT in your channel & like your content providing answers to those whom wish to learn & gain knowledge! THAN YOU SIR 🙂
Thanks and you are welcome!
Pbblaster smells like brain damage. I've got a can just like you said it's got quite a bit left in it and doesn't work. Been using deep creep and I'd like to try liquid wrench.
3 years later and your video is still helping people find products that actually work. Thanks!
You are welcome!
Not only that, but people like me watch it and 3 years later come back and watch it again.
@@ProjectFarm 4 years later and still helping people!
"Results: Liquid Wrench came out on top, following by ATF/Acetone, Royal Purple, WD-40, PB Blaster, and AeroKroil."
Thank you very much for typing that in the description!
Glad to see the inexpensive product kick butt. My brother in law is a huge PB fan. Hahahahaha
I use Rust Mustard
,I've used liquid wrench apply to any chain , wd, 40, specialist, white , lithium ,are. The best.
Results: Heat worked a little, followed by Liquid Wrench. The others did nothing because they were all about the same as dry. Then we soaked the nuts in vinegar for an hour and they came off by hand with no wrench at all.
@@hyzercreek This is doubtful.. if you listened @:56 in the video you would recall he torqued them too 100flbs. Now maybe your Steve Austin, the Bionic man, but it's doubtful. Please provide a video showing this..lol
Nice job!
You forgot a big piece. The control step where you put a wrench on an untreated nut, apply full strength, slip, skin knuckles, and then proceed to mumble choice profanity.
That would be Uncle Bumblewhack.
(The shmoo is strong with THAT one.)
steve
then kick some important part across the floor in a fit of rage and break it in the process also / kick the car, dent wing, break toes
LOL
LOL! This is funny! I admit, I've lost a lot of skin over the years from busted knuckles!
That would how Uncle Bumblefuck does said test...
Ahh test blood as a Release oil!
I've been in aviation maintenance for over 20 years and 100% hands down prefer Kroil to just about anything. I'm a little shocked to see it perform poorly on this test. It's amazing on dissimilar metal corrosion and heat stressed titanium, which are often found in aviation. It also smells great! Thanks for your videos. I found your channel a few weeks ago and have already purchased a few products based on your testing. I am not disappointed!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I'm the opposite. Kroil just REEKS to me and I can't stand it. I was given a can and have only tried it 3 times on frozen nuts/bolts, but it didn't seem to do much of anything to help. My trial results matched Todd's here.
Jeff is that you? Anyway, my buddy Jeff works in aviation maintenance also. He works on propellers and after just visiting him this past weekend, I saw a can of Aerokroil in his garage, and he swore by it.
How have you found it to work in the cold? I’m interested in using it on my shotgun while cold weather hunting, water and cold temps will lock ya up solid
I work in instrumentation, Kroil is the go to when you have to remove a long rusted RTD stuck in a thermowell on a steam generator at 325°C.
Highly underrated TH-cam channel. Thank you for your content and time the time taken to make them.
Thank you!
Project Farm no thank you!
I love watching his experiments he does a awesome job better than tv
Underated? With over 800 thousand subscribers and everyone loving this channel! What the hell are you talking about?
@@carlrest6553 1.76 million now!
It's really satisfying to see how consistent you got that rust. It's almost beautiful!
Thank you!
Keep in mind he's testing these products on short-term surface rust. It's going to be a different story on years old, very rusty fasteners you'd find under a vehicle. The fact is sometimes a torch is the only solution and that's why I always have one on hand.
it can't be stuck if it's liquid
I'm up in the salt belt of upstate NY. If I have time, I like to torch first and then hit it with penetrant. Seems like the heat opens it up and allows the penetrant in more, always had good luck using both.
He does mention heat at the end of the video.
Kroil works better with heat: heating parts and dousing with Kroil seems to smoke less than doing the same with PB Blaster, too.
FWIW, I also ran a PC fan with only RP Synfilm on the shaft (no grease) for nearly two years before it finally seized. I'd say it has great lubricant properties. I've also used it to lubricate turntable parts, too. The dropper bottle comes in quite handy for finer applications like that.
You mean in your hand ? 😂
Yikes, Liquid Wrench is now $12 a can. PB Blaster is $6. Your video drove their sales and price I bet! 😂
Liquid wrench is also much harder to find these days. PB blaster is now everywhere.
I absolutely love how you seem to think of EVERYTHING when doing these tests, such as putting the nuts on the studs with the beveled edge down and covering the bolts not being treated as each new set was being treated. GREAT WORK!
Thank you
I agree, he does _great_ work.
Try two old tricks I was shown 35 years ago by a old timer(60+).
1)Shock(hammer) the plate or parts next to the bolt. Use brass/lead hammer or pad it with a peace of soft wood. 2 or 3 good firm stikes. Works great, no chemicals spills to remove.
2) Tighten the bolt slightly. 1/8 turn or so. It breaks the rust and does not start the removal of the bolt with pushing the rust into the threads.
I use these so often a young guy at work thinks I can't hammer and forget the direction to turn the bolts.
I love removing bolt he gave up on, right in front of him.
I have shown him and explained the theory behind them.
Great tips!
This makes a lot of sense.
at work we do both of these before either using acetone, wd-40 or kroil. knock it a bit with a hammer, turn it more a bit, apply oil, turn it back, apply more oil, let it sit for a minute, if it dont come out in 30 minutes sit it over night. after watching these videos im gonna go buy some liquid wrench or that sea foam.
I've done this, learned it from Grandpa.
Yep, my dad used a big brass hammer, torch, and WD-40 to loosen up salty and corroded parts. I think he might have shown me the tighten slighty thing too, I can't recall though.
Great test. If you do this again, I would love to see if any of these actually penetrate the threads. After breaking the torque off, you could remove the nut and see if the oils went down into the threads.
Here I was using Liquid Wrench all this time because it was cheap, and was considering the 50/50 mix... Nice to see LW placed so well, I'll be sticking with it (wasn't thrilled about playing with acetone). Thanks for what you do, subscribed!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Liquid Wrench has always been king. Was the first one I ever used and tried PB Blaster...No comparison.
I am literally watching this while standing in the hardware store looking at the penetrating oils.... Full volume on my phone and giving you a thumbs up! 👍👍👍👍👍
Imagine someone comes up "can I help you find anything?"........ "Nah, I'm good, I'm watching the only truth teller #ProjectFarm
And I just did the same lmfao
yeah but dont be an asshole turn the volume down or use headphones lol
@@MattB90 lmao true though
Haha I’ve done similar
Hats off to your channel for no click-bait
Thank you! Some great advice I received a while back is as follows: If one creates deceiving titles, how can one trust the content of the channel. Seems like great advice!
I was surprised at the results. Last week I spent 7 hours on a stuck bell housing bolt. I used every tool I have including torch and impact. I was at a loss so I sprayed PB Blaster (recommended by a friend) and went to bed. In the morning the bolt was finger loose! Crazy. I’m now a firm believer in PB Blaster but I’m going to try Liquid Wrench now too. Great video sir!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Only 4 years after the posting and I watch this video, but really entertaining. I just wanted to share that a product I've been using for years and love over anything else I can think of is called Tri-Flow. It comes in a black and orange can and when you shake it there's a mixing ball inside the can similar to what you'd hear when shaking a spray paint can. Thanks for all the hard work you do Project Farm!
Thanks for sharing.
Being a master automotive technician I also have utilized all the products you did minus the acetone and transmission fluid mixture. From day to day 35 year hands-on experience I came up with the same conclusion that you did. It was an interesting show down to say the least. Thank you.
John, just wondering.. How many times in those 35 years did you intentionally go through 3 one hour application processes waiting for it to work?
Jay Audette if I was working from home, several applications over several hours was common. If it was in work and time is money, almost never.
@@johnjohannemann536 Yup. That's when heat enters the picture.
Heat is mostly the best option for rusted nuts/bolts. I think he would have had even better result from heating up the nuts a little more.
How are OEM penetrants? The Ford, GM or Chrysler stocked in dealer shops?
Thanks for another great objective product testing. As an engineer, I can appreciate your scientific and non-biased methodology. Keep these videos coming.
Thanks, will do!
What field of engineering are you in?
Some of PF's tests have merit, but this one is too small to be significant. Just look at the variance within each product.
@@DouglasGross6022 I have degrees in civil and environmental engineering and PE license. For a one man shop I think he's doing a great job and trying to be as objective as possible.
@@terranempire725 Agreed.
How can you tell if someone is an engineer? He'll tell you!
This was really interesting for me. I grew up on a dairy farm and we always had Liquid Wrench around. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it did so well. Great channel. Thank you
Thank you!
In NJ liquid wrench was the official state penetrant
I'm in my 60's, and my dad was using Liquid Wrench when I was a little kid, so it has been around a long time. I have used other stuff over the years, but never found anything that work as well - and so consistently, as the original Liquid Wrench.
This guy is better than Consumer Report! He owes no one and gives the best unbiased findings! Glad I subscribed! You should too!
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Consumer reports is garbage. Project farm is on a whole different scale.
Also, worth mentioning is to heat the nut and not the bolt. The idea being that the circumference of the nut will increase and separate from the bolt and break the 'seal' formed by the rust/etc. Yes, the bolt will get hot and expand as well, so if you've never done it before, heat the nut for a bit and then try to remove it. Lather, rinse, repeat.
And if something really truly stuck you can go the ole heat-water-heat-water-rinse repeat until desired result is achieved
I wouldn't contradict your experience that it works better as im not a mechanic, but the explanation confuses me. When you heat a metal, for example a nut, it expands in all directions, ie. it increases in volume. So the outside dimension increases in "radius" and the inside shrinks in radius. When the bolt gets hot it just gets bigger. The final effect is that the brittle rust gets squished between the surfaces and breaks its adhesion to the metal loosening the bolt after it cools again and all the surfaces shrink again. Does that make sense? Or do I have it wrong?
@@cnf6045 Exactly! Thermal shock is better than heating the nut and trying to remove it hot.
String Larson - That's exactly what I was always taught, BUT just recently I was attempting to remove a pitman arm and heated the nut for about a half hour and couldn't get the impact wrench to budge it. I then said #! and heated the arm itself for about 5 min and was able to break the nut in 5 seconds. Counter intutive I know BUT DAMN!
@@clutions Yeah, once the 'rust' essentially, fuses the parts, to a point where the heat applied will transfer from the nut to the bolt at the same rate as thru the clean nut. it can get/does get pointless. Time to rebuild from new.
The other thing to consider is that the strength of a say steel rod/bar/etc. degrades exponentially depending on the integrity of the initial material.
As a simple example (and if I recall correctly) a 1/2 inch rod with 1/16 inch off corrosion will have a non-linear reduction in "strength" (shear, tension, torsion, etc.)
This is important for many reasons not least of which is if one has a torque rating on a bolt and wants to mount a new nut, or of that works, whether or not that bolt/nut will hold up under required conditions. etc. etc. etc. etc
2 year old video and still replying to comments. That’s dedication to your subscribers. You’re doing an amazing job and definitely deserve more recognition. I’m still working my way down your video list as I recently found your page about a week ago. Wish I would’ve discovered your page sooner! Keep up the fantastic work!
Thanks so much!
Excellent video....as always. Thank you. I used to use WD 40, then Liquid Wrench, then ordinary gun oil/cleaner. Honestly, none of these things seemed to work for me. Finally, while I was in a small engine repair shop one of the mechanics told me about PB Blaster....he said it was the best he had found. So, I immediately went and bought some PB Blaster, took it home, and applied it to the stuck bolt in the aluminum trans case of by pos John Deere riding mower. After an hour I tried to loosen the stuck bolt....nothing. I sprayed again, waited another hour....nothing. Finally, I gave up, sprayed the stuck bolt again, and let it sit over night. So, the next day, just before I was going to light the fuse to the stick of dynamite I had waiting for the JD, I decided to try to loosen the stuck bolt one final time. Amazingly, as soon as I put the socket to the bolt, it simply turned....and was loose. The clouds parted, a bright beam of sunlight shone down, and the nearly departed pos John Deere mower had "new life"....and a new name...."Lazarus". So, I have been using PB Blaster all these years since then and, of the products I have tried, I highly recommend the PB Blaster over any others I have used
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
It's a miracle (cue Holy Grail horse reference....). Glad it finally came loose for you!
I love PB Blaster because you can shoot it across the driveway and lube that nut under your truck before you crawl under there to wrestle with it.
Also helpful when defending yourself against the wasp nest you discover once you get underneath there.
lol. Yes, it does indeed have a lot of "blast".
I have always been a huge fan of PB but I felt this was a well done, honest comparison video. I just watched part 2 as well. Excellent job, thanks for posting these. I will still keep good old PB on hand but would also consider Liquid Wrench in the future based on this video. I keep WD40 around for indoor stuff where I dont want to a big mess blasting it with PB.
@@trailblogger PB blaster is crap. Everybody around here uses it and I just laugh at them. It stinks to high hell and barely does anything. Try ZEP45. It's expensive but definitely worth it.
@@deeznutz2646 I agree about PB Blaster. It's absolutely useless. I didn't bother finishing the video but after 30 years experience turning wrenches... The absolute BEST penetrating oil made is AC rust penatrant #88862628. You can buy it for $13 at any GM dealer. I've tried every brand out there including 50/50 ATF & acetone. ZEP & Aerokroil are ok but the AC lube is the only thing that truly works. Closest second is industrial liquid wrench.
@@stevemccauley5734 Well, let's get PF to test it.
I am always impressed by your thoroughness, and your attention to details in the testing processes.
You may not be a scientist, but you sure think like one.
Thanks for watching!
My dad would always get the Liquid wrench from the auto parts store and tell me "aaaahhh its good enough" turns out it was very good and better off.
Thanks for sharing.
It didn't work at all for me 🤷♂️
Copy Imitation it’s possible no penetrating products would do the job 4 u. I’ve had times when heat was the solution 4 me after trying penetrants unsuccessfully. Have a nice day
@@kennithmorella2693 a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF did the job almost instantly.. The rust started to liquefy and melt off. I sprayed the liquid wrench on the bolts multiple times, And not once did i see any rust start to liquefy.
@@c0pyimitati0n I will have to do a test with evaporust and see if it works on stuck bolts and nuts.
Cheers
Dear PF,
I have a couple of things to say. First, you are doing well with your videos and performance progression. Your voice has more energy in it in newer videos. Good on you, sir.
Second, I saw that you had replied to a comment from a few months ago. I've never heard of a TH-camr doing that, let alone seen it. Thank you for your dedication.
PSA over. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
I've always been a fan of Liquid Wrench (or fire wrench when you can), and was happy to see it do well. One thing you could add is that tapping on the nut or bolt after you've applied the penetrating oil makes a helpful difference most of the time. Thanks for the video. *:D*
Great point! I should have mentioned this.
yes I was going to say the same thing, tapping on the nut/bolt, liquid wrench used to have that printed on the can. Only thing else I want to say is I use wd-40 on spark plug threads and have never had a spark plug seize in a head
you should also try adding penetrating oil on heated bolt, works so much better :)
I found a real excellent way to use liquid wrench on both oxygen sensors and exhaust bolts. First drive the car and get it hot. Next, spray the bolt, nut or sensor with Liquid Wrench.
It generally smokes a bit. Let the car sit for 15 minutes. Spray again, let sit for another 15 minutes, spray again and let sit for about an hour. Now try to remove the nuts and bolts and they will generally come off. I was amazed at how much easier exhaust bolts and especially oxygen sensors were to remove when doing this. Yea, it takes a couple hours of prep with Liquid Wrench, but it has proven to be worth the effort and wait several times for me.
One thing I know about Liquid Wrench is never use it on door latches or window regulators. I lubricated my door latches over a year ago and the Terrible smell is still in my car like I did it yesterday. Liquid ranch is OK for engines or exhaust where is the smell doesn’t matter
When I first started as a mechanic an old greybeard told me to use brake fluid. The best by far. Please like so it can be put to a true test!
Thank you for this recommendation!
If you step back and think about it, that makes a lot of sense. In past experiences if left alone brake fluid will eat it's way through almost anything if left untouched. I've seen it eat paint off the firewall of an $80,000 hotrod because the owner didn't know it was leaking and couldn't see it until the motor was removed for refresh.
Well if it works so well , then why are rusty brake line so hard to get apart?.......😁😁
I was shocked to see how the KANO finished in your test. Because I can say without a doubt, Kano has saved the day when NOTHING ELSE would help. But then Again, I wasn’t always dealing with a simple rusted nut/thread. It would just climb into everything . From heavily cooked on carbon coated or aged/hardened grease, and other unknown thread locking substances. But then I’m still using Kano from the 50 gallon drum my dad rolled home with back in 1984!! I bet these days there may possibly be a different ingredient or two to make it epa friendly.
I like your videos! Great work!
Yes, brake fluid works well!
I've used liquid wrench since I was a child in the early 1950's. My dad was an auto mechanic, and I still remember an old can of liquid wrench in a cabinet in the garage. I guess the smell of that product is what takes me back to my childhood! It's not a bad smell, but it is distinctively liquid wrench.
I stopped into Tractor supply today to get some liquid wrench. They had three kinds of liquid wrench, but they were out of the "ORIGINAL liquid wrench. I guess everyone in Dripping Springs Texas watched this TH-cam video!!
Thanks for sharing.
I was born around the same time as you and Liquid Wrench is all I’ve used and always got good results. I prefer the squeeze can because you can put it right on the bolt instead of spraying half a can into the atmosphere. The squeeze can lasts a lot longer. Did any of these other products even exist then?
I used to know a John Gregory from Dripping Springs
You are totally awesome . I can’t find something better to say other than “may God reward you and guide your heart”
I would be interested to see these same products used as a rust preventative. take new nuts and bolts soaked in the different Pen-oils the put them in an environment which would normally cause them to rust.
Thank you for this recommendation!
Project Farm You’re welcome. I really enjoy your videos.
That is a great idea!
my mate paint stipped a panel 3 years ago. I put wd 40 on it then. 3 years latter still no rust and has an oily film. (is inside the shed)
Someone on a gun forum did that. Used a salt bath. WD40 was kick ass in that test.
I have a motor mount bolt stuck in the metal sleeve through the bushing. I was using PB Blaster to try to cut through the rust, then saw Liquid Wrench tested better, and I happen to have a can of that as well. These videos are still useful years later!
Thanks, great to hear!
projext farm i aint even in to this sort of stuff but im addicted i love how you talk to your viewers you explain to a point where you don't dumb it down or over complicate it your a legend :D
Thank you
Absolutely, that is so important to keep it simple and we the viewers appreciate involving hands-on usage too. Well said !!
I’ve been using liquid wrench since watching these videos and it works well. I am just sick of the smell so I might test out some of the other options
Sea foam deep Creep smells like coconuts. Works well for me.
What does it smell like?
PB Blaster stinks too!
Kroil almost smells like Pine Sol or a cleaning solution. You’ll actually not be bothered by the smell and results for me are opposite of what’s shown here. Kroil is my he’s y hitter when WD40 and PB blaster just aren’t cutting it. Kroil had worked wonders
@@patrickmcwilliams3957 PB stinks so bad that it is wholly intolerable to me. And the smell gets on you so you stink like it does all day long. Not worth it for a mediocre penetrant.
PB Blaster. Used it for the first time while trying to break axles free from a rusted wheel bearing assembly. Used several cans of Liquid Wrench without results. Bought a single can of PB Blaster and it worked. I was able to remove the axles without too much trouble.
I am a kroil fan because I use it on 650 degree valves on the spindle threads and collar. Once worked in, it allows the best turning of a 36" valve than any other safe lube. It doesn't evaporate as quick; yet, is light enough to penetrate and lube it. Try turning a valve 990 turns to open it, then you will see...
Heat with a propane or mapp torch for appx. 30 secs. Then apply penetrating oil. The heat sucks it in instantly.
I bent a breaker bar recently trying to remove rusted bolts under my truck. Heated then sprayed and VIOLA, nuts came off fairly easy with a little effort.
I was very impressed.
But be careful working above you when you spray the penetrant onto the heated metal it drips hot oil on you. So position yourself to the side.
Great point. Thank you
It's written: VOILA! Viola is a girl's name or musical instrument.
No, it just evaporates the volatile contents of the penetrant. (EVOC)
The heat loosened up the bolt more than the penetrant did . Heat expands allowing the oil to get in. But you don't always have the option of using an open flame. like a hanger strap on a gas tank or brake line near the same. Just FYI
@@agr8dane1 I've never got a heavily rusted object loose with a propane torch alone. Just FYI
@@agr8dane1 you can with a hotter torch. But what I said was the heat allowed the oil to get in due to heat expansion.
Ever put a ring gear on a flywheel?
You're not wrong just explaining.
We are just a bunch of dudes having a great time watching a video about rust penetrating oil performance. Good stuff!
Thanks for watching!
You broke my heart man. I've been using pb blaster for years haha another great video. At least pb blaster is great at killing wasps
Thank you
Hah, I didn't know it was good at wasp killing, I'll have to remember that next time I cant find the wasp killer and find myself grabbing random solvents from the shelf to fight one. LOL
Brake Cleaner is the best for wasp.
i use WD to kill bees nests ;) works like a charm...
@@edwinthomas618 it also has less cleanup
Man you are the most Honest farmer I have ever known!
Thanks for the nice comment! Thanks for watching.
I’m a little shocked on the results. I’ve always been happy with PB blaster but looks like I’m going to give liquid wrench a try. Awesome videos!
Thank you! Thanks for sharing.
I was thinking the very same thing.. Especially at that price! Only downside is not as easy to find.
I am following a couple of big youtubers that strongly recommend PB over WD40. Guess they are sponsored.
@@helgedell PB blaster and WD40 both have their purposes and different scenarios. However I’m sure most on this channel have both in their garage. Both are winning and WD40 been around forever.
@Hard Core Also might go up in price a bit due to the Project Farm Effect.
-....oh wait this is a 4 year old video-
I work on vintage sewing machines that are 50 to 100 years old and I fine that Kroil and heat work the best to free seized small nuts and screws. WD40 and Liquid Wrench were better than nothing but least effective. PB Blaster was more effective, but my go to penetration is Kroil.
Blue tipped wrench always wins! Sometimes confined spaces should prevent using. I’ve been having good luck with Sea Foam’s Deep Creep.
Great feedback. Thank you
I was thinking use a torch. Then You did. That made this video 100x better.
Thank you!
Interesting video.. I have been a mechanic for over 40 years and have found that Kroil works best sometimes and other times it just doesn’t work at all.. (and Kroil STINKS when heated !)
PB blaster has never worked very well for me.. but some friends love the stuff!
Liquid Wrench penetrates well if you have a GOOD can of it, but from my experiencd, their quality control is bad.. I have had aerosol cans that barely worked, cans that smelled like stale Kerosene and others that worked well.
Straight Kerosene can work as well as most of them in a pinch.
Kerosene and Acetone works too.. But again, it is smelly.. ATF & Acetone works impressively well most of the time.. but you need to make a new batch when needed, not much shelf life!
Proper use of a hammer to relieve stress on the threads and tried and true methods are ultra important.. Just spraying it on and turning hard is not the successful way to remove a stuck nut or bolt !
Find one you like.. Kroil is expensive and at times seems to be worth whatever it costs because it can save you time and money, but like I said, other times it simply doesn’t work at all.. Not all metals are the same, oxidation is not always the same.. Experience is more important than the chemicals from a can !
Thanks for commenting. I enjoyed reading your post.
You know. I love Kroil! I'm a gunsmith and I have a little different situation than most penetrent users. I might have a firearm that is very old (100, 200 or more years old) but I have time to let it be. I will soak a part down with Kroil and work on something else for a day or two. This really works well but most situations for a product like this wouldn't allow that. A lot of things I'm working on have parts that just aren't available and I have to either save the part or make a new one.
Other things that work well for me are heat, shock and Vibration. I have soaked things down with kroil and then tied them to my air compressor for a day or two. Helps in some situations.
Best help is like you say experience. Patience goes a long way, keep trying different things and resist the temptation to force things. Y'all Take Care, John
So now you need to mix all of them together and see what the out come is. Also see the results when the oxidation is inhanced by salt. You know road salt from winter. Great video
Thank you for this recommendation!
maybe even do a setup like this and biweekly soak the test pieces in a strong road salt solution over the spring and summer for a winter road salt special in the fall. IIRC calcium chloride is especially damaging to untreated metal.
I really enjoy your videos and their practicality to hobbyists and DIYers. Thanks
for the hard work.
Rock salt and water mix make sure its think so it sticks. If you were close I would give you a few 50lbs bags. But there cheap anyway.
Brandon Allen sorry fella but salt dont do it. its salt thay aytracts water and holds it against metal and water has oxygen in it that actually dose the dirty deed.
Brandon Allen but you are almost correct
This is a comprehensive presentation. Especially appreciate the charts of cost, AND performance of these bolt looseners/rust dissolvers. Looks like there is a reason that I have been using Liquid Wrench for over two decades. THANK YOU, Project Farm. Now I can go work on my Volvo and my Toyota Matrix!!! And I work on both cars, AND computers. Well done, sir!
Thanks and you are welcome!
I'm a Kroil guy, and I think I just bought my last can. Thanks for the great video.
Thank you! I wish Kroil would have done better. I don't mind spending more, but need the performance to match the price tag.
I was thinking the same thing. Ive used and recommended Kroil for years. Now I feel like ive just wasted mine and my friend's money for years
I'm in the same boat. Have half a gallon of Silikroil left, so I got a couple more years before I can justify buying something else though. At least when I do my wife will finally stop complaining about the smell in the garage from when I use it.
Mat D half a gallon? fuck why did you buy that much.
carolyn mmitchell It was $50 plus slipping.
One parameter you didn't consider in your test protocol was the 'country of origin' of the steel used for the studs and lug nuts. The trace elements in iron ore mined from around the globe varies, along with the "mix" of other elements (like carbon, molybdenum, & chromium) that are added during production of the steel will vary in different countries; as with German Steel, and Soligen Steel most notably.
I started "wrenching" in the 1960's and retired in the late 90's. For many years I was using Liquid Wrench, but when I got into specializing in Japanese-origin cars in my own shop I found that Liquid Wrench didn't work as with Domestic cars for freeing up rusted fasteners. And that was backed up by the difference in using an oxy/ace cutting torch to "blow off" rusted exhaust nuts while being able to not damage an exhaust manifold or the stud with cars built in different countries. Yeah, I always seemed to get the cars where fastener's had been rounded off with a worn out or cheap socket during a prior repair or were rusted so badly that the correct size socket was very loose fitting, and the best tool was a torch used by someone who knew what the hell they were doing and to just melt it off. I saw the difference in the color of the flame when melting off the nuts on cars made in various countries. Oh yeah, I live in a rust-belt state where road salt took its toll on everything that didn't retain paint for long or got too hot to hold paint like exhaust systems pre-stainless steel exhaust systems that needed to be replaced every 2 to 4 years almost like clock-work from the cat back. And before cats, the whole system was usually installed rather then the client saying "but you just fixed my exhaust system 6 months ago" when only the rear was done and now the headpipe was making noise. I did the whole system and saved the labor costs for 2 partial repairs.
Bottom line - I found that WD-40 worked best with Toyota, Nissan, and other Asian-origin vehicles. And at my local shop owners trade organization meetings I found that the European-car specialists swore by PB-Blaster as being the best. Tried PB-Blaster in a few VW's and Fiat's that I got 'roped into' working on by regular Toyota-owner clients of mine for their 2nd car or 'kids car' and found that to be the best for those brands. Worked on few domestic cars (too large for my small bays) once I opened my own shop in 1975, but I stuck with Liquid Wrench on those; neither PB-Blaster nor WD-40 worked as good.
Bottom line, there is no 'best to use' across the board. The metallurgy involved with the steel presents a variable which involves the origin of the fasteners. So, in this day and age a technician almost needs to view the VIN to determine the country of assembly and hope or assume that the fasteners installed at the factory were sourced locally in that country. Call it a SWAG - Scientific Wild Assed Guess to determine what might work best for each vehicle that rolls thru the door.
Just discovered your channel. I commend you for taking the time to actually test the various and look forward to the 2nd video.
Great tip, thank you! I just bought a Toyota RAV4 and usually use PB for my old Ford tractor, but will try WD40 for my RAV.
Interesting observation and dearly thanks for sharing it. Also totally agree that there is no such a thing as "One size fit all".
You definitely deserve to be prideful of your videos Bud. Not only is everything that you're saying very interesting, but your videos are also very informative to consumers that are laymen when it comes to the knowledge that you present. Keep up the good work. I'm glad I found your videos.
Thanks, will do!
Awesome presentation and review of these products you are the absolute best at these types of products reviews.
You show no actual bias and only tell the outcome of your tests and they are done super professionally.
And your English is spoken clearly and understandable and you only use words that the average layman can understand.
No big fancy words that are not understandable.
Thank you for your awesome presentations and hard work.
Thank so much!
Also, he has the intelligence to be able to express himself without swearing or using vulgarities. So refreshing! It's nice to be able to refer my grandchildren to this channel without worrying about what they'll hear.
As a former millwright there is one tried and true that you did not use, the hammer! The old adage of it that don’t work get a bigger hammer (there is a modicum of truth to that). If you whack on a rusted up bolt or nut a few times you will always loosen it up a bit! That’s why impacts work soo well!
You came up with the same results as old uncle bumblefuck did! AVE!!!
Yes, the hammer works wonders! Thank you!
Hit with a hammer if it doesn't move use a bigger hammer if it breaks it wasn't built right!
If it won't fit, force it. If it breaks, it was defective.
@Joshua Carnine - As a current ignoramus, who doesn't understand the value of knowledge, experience, and wisdom, I belittle anyone who does.
Project farm: yes very true, if you read my other comment on here you will see I never mention the hammer method, but yes in some applications just the good old beat the tar out of it a bit can work wonders, also if you hold one hammer on the back side of the stuborn nut as an anvil then smack the other side of the nut with a different hammer sometimes is even more effective yet (transmits more of the force and vibrations directly into the nut so it would seem), or another trick is to concentrate the hammers force by using a metal cutting chisle to really concentrate the force of the hammer in a very small area on the side of the nut, this will cause the nut to be mechanically expanded ever so slightly and many times be rather easy to remove after doing so, you just need to not mess up the fastener to the point where a wrench will no longer fit it, anyhow good luck on those stuborn fastners my friend lol.
Yeah! Me, being a cheap ass when buying "Liquid Wrench" over 10WD40...it pays off. Thank you for doing the test studies... Much appreciate... Keeps up the excellent tests.
I'm surprised the PB blaster didn't do better. Glad to know I'm not missing out on anything by not buying into the Kroil craze.
Thank you for commenting!
Joseph Marciniak I've only ever used Kroil because that's just what my shop buys but this was eye opening. I showed this to my boss and now we are going to try Liquid Wrench. We rebuild antenna tilt machines on navy ships, so there are DEFINITELY some nasty bolts that I have to deal with.
a lot of people just fanboy the most expensive and preach it
my money was on PB as well, but then that's why I watch the video.
BlowDiamond I'm a mechanic in Pennsylvania and I've been using PB Blaster for years. If I can find Liquid Wrench locally, I'll certainly give it a shot. The salt they throw on the roads really corrodes things. Its damn near impossible to work on older cars here without a torch.
For 20 years, I've listened to fellow Jeepers argue whether PB Blaster was better than Liquid Wrench. I always leaned towards PB, but this changes my mind. Thanks for all of your videos, you do a great job with them!
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Great test. Glad to see most of my assumptions confirmed i.e. Liquid Wrench = best, WD-40 mid point.
I hear heat advocated ALL THE TIME, impressive difference. But you're right, heat is not always an option, either due to possible damage to paint, electrical, combustibles/volatiles (fuel lines, brake lines), etc. adjacent to target fasteners or seized parts; of just plane not having any heat capability such as roadside tire change or repair/replacement of other automotive parts.
Thank you!
Great Job! Love your videos. I’m a yacht engineer and I can honestly say that people in the industry have seen your videos and heard of you. You’re making a useful impact and I appreciate it. Keep them coming!
Thank you! I appreciate hearing that!
Don't often comment on these, but watch faithfully..and like as well. That said must admit I'm a Kroil user in the past (always the liquid form though, never the spray)
after using it at the large Manufacturing shop where I apprenticed, and worked for yrs. as a Maintenance Mechanic, and think it works well in certain situations, but not this one. Do trust in your process and integrity as you're not 'sponsored' by anyone, or trying to sell us something, and that means a lot.
Can't deny the results I see on this video, and wonder if Kerosene mixed w/some synthetic ATF would make a good penetrating solution. The sad part of this video is I recently bought a can of PB Blaster for the 1st time, and know it's not good, it's just common, and will keep these results in mind when purchasing in the future.
I like the Kerosene/ATF idea! I was hoping Kroil would do better, since I haven't been all that impressed with the others over the years. I'm always looking for great products!
Leave a comment even a simple . Helps raise his cpm
I have used the liquid kroil in a maintenance mechanic role as well and can say from my personal experience that it does some pretty amazing stuff on some serious rust that we'd think we were going to have to just torch some of the bolts off. That said I respect the "science" behind this test and appreciate the effort that went into it! In the application that I would use it we would only have given a soak time of 5 minutes max with several liberal applications of the liquid kroil.
ave did a similar video. Kroll is worthless.
PB blaster has saved me many times over the years, and in situations when nothing else would. And if pb didn't do it then kroil would, and usually if one of those 2 dont work nothing is going too and it's time for the blue wrench.
Thank you for all your testing and excellent reviews. I immensely enjoy your videos and recommendations. Being a retired merchant marine engineer, we have had plenty of exposure with rusty fasteners on sea going ships. One of the major enemies to seafaring ships are salt water and sea spray. At one time or another we have used all the penetrants you have tested in your video (except the home brew). The top two we found to be most successful was the Kroil and the PB Blaster. The Kroil we would get in one gallon cans the PB Blaster in 5 gallon cans. The most unique thing we found with Kroil and PB Blaster was its effectiveness was almost immediately where as for the others they required a soak time.
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
I’ve noticed when I used penetrating oil and finally get the nut off the bolt the threads that was under the nut are dry. Maybe you could try this again and take the nuts completely off the bolts to see which oil actually penetrated all the way. I also noticed that your bolts and nuts only have “surface rust” . If your setup was outside in a natural environment for a long period of time say a year or two you would be more likely to snap the bolt or strip the threads. But in my opinion, heat would be the best if able to use safely.
All great points. I'll publish another video using different brands soon and will use your suggestions. Thanks again!
Re Carpenter heat melts my fiberglass boat!
Liberty Barker if your able to get a nut splitter on your rusted nut then that may be an option. Another way may work is using a 4-1/2” grinder with a cut off wheel and make a slotted cut (like for a flat tip screwdriver) through bolt threads and nut but don’t go too deep to damage boat. Then use a small chisel to split the rest. And may I recommend using some anti-seize on the new bolt threads, this helps keep moisture and rust from forming. A third option ( if you can get to both sides of nut/bolt) is to keep tightening it up till it twists apart (two impacts if possible). But if only option is penetrating oil I would give nut/bolt a little twist, spray oil, twist, spray...repeat. Hope this helps you out.
@@ProjectFarm heat the nut/bolt first then spray on penetrate
Interesting video! I am an automotive student and in our shop, all we use is PB Blaster, and that is all I have also used for years now. I may have to give Liquid Wrench a try! This is a very unrealistic test though. I do not know of anyone in the automotive industry that has time to apply 3 coats of penetrating fluid with an hour of soaking in between to free up a stuck bolt. Realistically one coat is applied, then attempted to remove after 5-10 minutes. This would be a more real world test for this type of product, but I guess if you are just a DIY repair person with plenty of time, this is a good approach. Great video though!
Thanks for commenting on this.
Koorite if you read my comment I say PB Blaster hands down. Its What every REAL PRO will reach for... And WD40 Is for Newbies and Walmart shoppers... I havnt had a use for WD40 Since i was 13 and im 40 now... WD40 Shouldnt even be in the lineup... Regardless, when you find something that works on EVERYTHING and youve never needed to look any futher... then WHY LOOK ANY FUTHER... Try PB Blaster and youll be set for life. I use it as my all around pen oil and rust gaurd... All my tools get wiped down with it after a hard use before storage. Plus 1 can last forever and a prick year... The Can ive got now ive had about 8 years. It doesnt take much at all and it last.
DrJones yeah, i know WD40 is junk. i currently only use pb blaster now and it works great, but this video showed that liquid wrench is also a good penetrating fluid, so i would like to give it a try since i have never used it!
PB blaster is junk. CRC Knocker Loose #1. PB is the WD-40 of penetrating oils.
The student speaks!
Hi Project Farm, I just discovered this video of yours - I wish we had tested this in engineering. Frozen fasteners is a common if not contagious ailment on equipment failure investigation (and farm equipment maintenance). Thank you so much for your scientific and practical testing. Ciao, L (Pointue Farms)
Thank you very much!
This is probably the best product review channel on the internet. I refer many people that are looking to buy products to your channel - let the data speak for itself. WRT the penetrating fluids, I have used Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Sea Foam and PB Blaster - none of them work. Heat, when I can use it, is my best friend. Because of a dry rotted tire, I recently had to remove a wheel on one of my trailers and the nuts were rusted. The wheels hadn't been removed in 30 years. I tried all of my leftover cans of penetrating fluids and none of them worked. I applied them to the lug nuts every day for one week and still had to use a breaker bar. Upon inspection, I observed that the fluid did not penetrate past the first thread or two. I have several cans of chemicals if someone wants to stop by and pick them up!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing the channel!
In most real life scenarios, rust compromises the integrity of the metal specially on smaller nuts and bolts. Which is why so many of them strip.
CRC Freeze-Off, a blow torch and an extractor is usually my go to when a rust job really wants to test me.
Love all your vids!
Thanks so much! Thanks for the feedback.
Well, that was interesting. i have several cans of PB blaster in my garage, I guess I need to buy liquid wrench.
Thank you for the feedback
I have most of a gallon of Kroil, which I thought was better than PB Blaster. Always poopoo'd liquid wrench. Shows how much I know!
@@gizzyguzzi Most of the praise I hear for Kroil is for large stuck pieces like mower/etc wheels stuck to axles, etc with large and deep contact areas that require a lot more time to soak in, maybe a week before it'll come off without having to cut the rim or axle even with a gear puller and a torch.
These results are pretty interesting but generally you wouldn't even be using these products on anything that you could torque off at all unlike the controls. I mean how stuck are the rest if they cranked off by hand even with a breaker bar? I'd find it more definitive if the first 4 left untreated needed an impact wrench and/or snapped a bolt or two.
It’s quite interesting over the years of having a large shop and using different products, that sometimes the sales of the different penetrating oils and their slogans seem draw us to gravitate towards one over the other, especially the one with the capillary action! There’s always the proof is in the pudding over sales gimmicks! Great review I enjoyed it : )
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I just used PB Blaster on rusted banjo bolts on my master cylinder. Worked great! That's what brought me to this video, very surprised with these results!
I have seen obvious great results 3x from PB Blaster. I have heard brake fluid works but have not tried it. I am going to buy the winner of this contest and try it.
I'm from the NE/ Midwest. Everybody swears by PB Blaster for loosening rusted hardware. Of course, it helps to keep it from rusting in the first place. Undercoating is a scam. I've never used it and probably never will. Just keep your car clean, including underneath. And lubricate other devices as needed.
He's come such a long way. Love seeing the progress in techniques and ideas
Awesome channel and thank you for existing and waking up every morning 🌄
Thanks and you are welcome!
As an aircraft mechanic for American Airlines we also typically use Kroil as many have stated. I was surprised at how bad it actually is. They probably haven't changed the formula in a very long time thou. What we have found is that Dye Penetrant or in our particular case the Fluorescent Penetrants work phenomenally! These penetrants have different classes, I-IV, with IV being the best and their capillary action is better than any thing we have found. This stuff has to find really tiny cracks in different materials so it gets in the threads of nuts/bolts with no issues. Unfortunately it is messy, especially the fluorescent kind. Also maybe you could design some type of test to try to visually see the capillary action of these materials. Maybe plates of plexiglass together and see how far it can "creep" between the two? In this type of test you could theorize which one is best with a constant application of the product. Could also be worth checking the application directions for each product. I know that I was always told to spray Kroil every few minutes because as you noted it evaporated quickly. Apply the penetrants horizontally because you can't always get that good soak in real applications. Great video.
These are all great recommendations--thank you!
LPS was designed for the aerospace industry. Ever try that?
Jake McCurry Jr. croil is the shit I’ve tested it on bolts rusted in refineries for more than 50 years and kroil did better than all of these
festerallday - We use LPS 1, 2, & 3. We typically only use them for lubrication purposes thou, never really tried them as a Penetrant to break things loose.
crunch9876 - I have heard so many people make the same claim but in my own real world testing Kroil works alot of the time but if it's really stuck the Fluorescent Penetrant works way better. This is also the 2nd video I've seen that Kroil has done either the worst or almost the worst. I've been at my job for over 10 years and my experience has been the same as the videos.
Awesome Test! I have had really good luck with my ATF/Acetone mix, I just always have to remind myself to shake it before spraying. Thanks!
Thank you!
Yep - you tested my 2 go-to methods. Heat, and acetone/ATF. Works out great, since I'm cheap. When in doubt, heat always works. It's either coming off ... or she's gonna bust. :)
Great study man! THANKS!!
Thank you!
Long time follower here. Was going to mix up some acetone and ATF but wanted to check on your page first. Got the answers I was looking for! Thanks for all that you do!
You are welcome! Thanks for being a long time followerer!
Great channel! I really appreciate the way you lay out your tests and your great attitude in general. You always see the way to get consistency and validity with your test parameters. I've been recommending Liquid Wrench for about 30 years now. Nothing works better on the tough fasteners. Nice to have you demonstrate it. The old formula was stronger, but nasty smell!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I just tried to buy some and everyone is sold out. The nearest Home Depot that has it is 400 miles away, Walmart is completely out, Menard's is out...never mind. Found it at Fleet Farm for less than half the price.
Hey that was excellent and fair. I've learned that you really try hard and succeed to be equal to all the products. I appreciate and trust your efforts. Great Job and I'm going to use your recommendations!!
Thank you!
Great video. As you stated, penetrating fluids do very little. That has been my experience in over 40 years of messing with every rusted thing I found. I use WD40 to keep critters out of my stored equipment and to offset corrosion in my mower decks. Great for control cables as well.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
WD-40 is better as a water dispersant than a penetrant. It does work well to protect surfaces from corrosion during storage.
Your use of wd40 is what it was designed for to protect equipment developed by Nasa. I eats through rubber.
Great test! I thought Aero Kroil would come out on top. That’s all we would use on steam fittings and it worked great.
Thank you! Thanks for the feedback.
I'm sure it all depends on the conditions too, dirt, oil, heat, weather, etc. Kroil might work better for your work than others. Too many different variable in the real world to really tell :D
I’ve used almost all of them and over the years and different applications the PB blaster works the best to be honest.
Thanks for sharing.
Most importantly it smells like root beer
Have you used Liquid Wrench ?
@@martys4x457 maybe i just have a weird sense of smell but I think it smells like root beer Lol
I agree on the PB Blaster. I use it all the time. I restore old cars for a living, so I've encountered many rusted fasteners. PB Blaster is the only one that I can see actually dissolving the rust when applied. Wire brushing the fastener before applying any penetrant will help. Kroil worked well for me in freeing up a rusted stuck engine. Poured Kroil in the cylinders and let it sit a couple days. I think Blaster would work well for that too, and I am going to try it in another old engine in a few months. The other products have not been useful for old, rusted fasteners for me. I keep some WD40 around for light lubrication use, but it's not useful for serious rust.
Letting a penetrant soak for several hours may be a solution for some of us. I restore classic cars, letting things soak overnight is preferable to snapping bolts in castings, especially aluminium ones.
I agree!
mick coomer I used KROIL on the exhaust of my 78 mustang. Shot some on the exhaust studs once every 6 hours for 3 days and then nearly backed the nut off by hand
Screamin' Shadow Rider
Same
mick coomer
I concur
roger..... we're all anxious to hurry along things that need time
this was very helpful. I just got tasked with cleaning and repairing a bunch of mop handles. They have those little threaded bars used to clamp down on the mop head. They are rusted beyond belief.
Thanks! Thanks for the feecback.
Wow! I've been using the expensive AeroKroil, I'll be picking up some Liquid Wrench next time. Thanks for the great info!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
Me too! I thought I had something special in the expensive Aerokroil. I mean it works OK, but nothing particularly outstanding.
@@ProjectFarm
Can you do one on automotive hard grade bolts, I see some that are galvanized some that are chrome and some gold type paint and blacked out. Can you do testing to see which fair better against salt and moisture and which are actually stronger. please and thank you.
The one that creeps is the only one you need
@@GereDJ2 I have a can of kroil. Love the smell. Best of all penetrating oils.
That was a great test, I have never seen a big difference in all of the products I have tried in the past 50 years. Thanks
This is what about PB Blaster. Looks like liquid wrench is best way to go. Thanks for the test!!
OMG! I love this video! Thank you so much for taking the time to show a truly complete test, with a control set and averages of four tests each. Clearly it took a lot of time and effort to devise this test, then to set it up (dissoving the zinc! oxiding the metal!), then to show the results in a definitive way. I'm subscribing!
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
So glad my favorite won. Thought I was a deluded fool all these years for sticking with it
Glad to hear too! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for your videos. Don't have any ideas but just wanted to let you know that I appreciate them.
Thank you for the positive comment!
Interesting. Over the past 50 plus years I've used most of those at one time or another plus Marvel Mystery Oil which has perfomed well on steel to steel applications but for freeing up disimilar metals I've had the best results from Kroil by far. Years ago I had a steel fitting that was seized in a very rare aluminum intake manifold and had about given up hope of getting it out. I ahd tried PB Blaster, WD-40, MMO, etc. with no luck. I took it to my buddy's repair shop , he walked over to his tool box and came back with this beat up old can and sprayed around the fitting. He then went to the fridge and came back with 2 beers and told me to have a seat. We finished the beers and he got up and clamped the fitting in the vice and told me to pull on the manifold, there was a split second of resistance and then it broke free and came right out. That was my introduction to Kroil, i bught my own can that same day and have kept it on hand ever since.
I keep almost all of these around. I've found that none of them seem to be a one size fits all solution. I also like Permetex Liquid Penetrant. When I have a nut that won't break loose after a quick spritz of PB Blaster (the cheapest these days), I pull out the rest and start spraying away.
Video recommendation: Which spark plug is best. Test different spark plug brands like NGK, champion, autolite, etc. as they are around 2 dollars a piece and not expensive across one engine like a predator 212. Measure engine temperature, RPM, fuel economy, and performance. Thanks!
Thank you for this video test idea!
Oh man yes please.
My prediction is that fancy plugs don't improve power or performance in any way.
All you need is a good ol fashioned spark not a fancy spark.
Donuts Garage, I have learned in the past that NGK plugs are the best for a 2 stroke. Maybe Project farm should test them on 2 and 4 stroke engines.
First thought is that the fancy plugs might not perform measurably better but last longer. The iridium plugs have a skinny center electrode that is supposed to produce a better spark and last over 100,000 miles.
Fantastic! I've never known a mechanic to believe in penetrating oil at all, but it's really cool to see that while most of them, indeed, did basically nothing (most of the bottom ranked ones didn't seem to actually do better in a statistically significant sense), Liquid Wrench really blew my mind! What a great product!
Of course, nothing beats good ol' molecular motion.
Just uh...
I've been turning wrenches for a living for 12 years and I never don't have a can of PB Blaster on my Roll Cart.
Looks like I may have to give liquid wrench a shot.
I'd rather spend 10$ on a can of oil than spend 2 hours extracting broken exhaust bolts. Thank god I dont work on northern rust belt shipwrecks. Or I woulda quit doing this after 2 weeks.
@@EvlEgle Heheh, yeah, I managed shops in the northern rust belt. Maybe why all of my guys always just went right to the torch.
@@barefootalien Only worked in 1 shop that even had a torch.
Tried to bring my own to more than one dealer I worked at and they said hell no.
Just not a problem we deal with down here. Thank god.
@@EvlEgle That's wild! A torch was considered mandatory equipment up north! We even kept backup bottles in case we went through them and couldn't get a delivery right away.
Like you, a lot of the time people just wouldn't risk breaking or rounding off bolts, and would torch right away, like you do with penetrating oil. Very interesting, the difference in culture, though.
I wonder _why_ the dealerships didn't want them... maybe they thought they were a liability for damaging cars? Which... I mean, they are, but no more than most other tools, and considerably less-so than a drive-on alignment or oil change rack. xD
Like I said earlier, the only cars where the torch was a problem were Saabs, which often have neat little rubber flap seals around the engine bay for things like tie rods to go through. Really neat design, kept the engine bay pretty clean, but also tended to melt or catch on fire when a torch had to be used, especially to free up an outer tie rod end for alignments. Not that they hit the seals with the torch, just that the tie rod end would get hot enough to melt them.
@@EvlEgle By the way, I hope _you_ weren't buying the cans of penetrating oil... that's exactly what the "shop supplies" line on the invoices is for, to cover incidentals like that, like oxy/acetylene fuel usage, etc.
In my shops, at least, if someone _did_ want some PB Blaster, _I_ ordered it, for the shop. Same with torch fuel and the torch itself.
Heh, then again I did used to get in trouble from the higher-ups for such "frivolous" expenses, like the time I spent all of $80 on a vacuum brake bleed system so I wouldn't have to have a Tech 1 up in a lifted car to pump the brakes for 20 minutes at a time. At their hourly rate alone, to say nothing of the profit they weren't generating while they were up there, the thing would've paid itself off in under 20 brake jobs, but upper management can be remarkably short-sighted sometimes...
I've never had alot of luck with penetrating oils for stuck and rusted fasteners, I prefer kroil though for lubricating everything else, especially any kind of hinge, pivot point or mechanism. Seems to last the longest and do a better job loosening sticky joints. And I've tried all the ones you tested out here, but liquid wrench I always thought was a pretty good alternative which you proved here.
Thanks for the feedback.
Back in the day, (about 1960) the maintenance guys used the liquid that settled from the heat treating furnace's huge natural gas line's "drip leg" to free stuck bolts. I wonder if Liquid Wrench is similar. As another poster said, it sure does smell like it. Gee- I have been using PB Blaster as my go-to solution for quite a while. But, come think of it, I often still have to go the "heat" route if that doesn't work. I use induction heaters when a flame isn't feasible, by the way.
Thanks for sharing.
PB Blaster has been my go-to as well, sadly it didn't do too well. I had heard that using heat could compromise the strength of the bolts, not sure if that's true.
@@da7heaven Re: "I had heard that using heat could compromise the strength of the bolts, not sure if that's true." Yes, I am certain that it IS true, unless you know for sure that the bolt is made from steel that is too low in alloy to be hardened or tempered. I particularly cringe when I see someone heating automobile suspension parts to a red glow. If the bolt is replaced by a new known-to-be-correct one, that would be okay. On the other hand, using heat on exhaust manifold parts doesn't bother me.
Thank you so much for this video, I always loved liquid wrench but my friends loved PB blaster. Now i can send this video to them and prove my point. :)
You are welcome!
I love your videos. Keep up the good work.
When I was a kid every house had a small can of 3 in 1oil as surely as they had a bottle of aspirin. While I know that it does not claim to be a penetrant, it should at least get an honorable mention for those that have to "MacGyver" in a pinch. lol
Great test.. lots of fun.
TBH all those consumer products tested about the same, except Liquid Wrench. .The differences between the rest are so small it can be attributed in variances in the rust buildup and your own test methods...
At the nuke plants we use oil of wintergreen on the reactor head studs (hi strength CS) prior to removal.. wonder how that compares? We have to use it because of chemical limitations (chlorides etc).
Thank you!
Would love to see how wintergreen oil does in a test.
I have used the second place for a long time. We put it in a 4 cylinder engine that was frozen. 3 days of letting it soak the engine turned over. I enjoyed your show. Thank You
Thanks and you are welcome!
Great test. I’m an auto tech and was shocked that Kroil scored low. Surprised at Liquid Wrench. I use Kroil but will try LW next time first to save my Kroil supply.
Agreed. Kroll always penetrated well past alot of the others I've tried.