Best CLP? Hoppe’s 9 vs Break Free CLP, Slip 2000, Ballistol, Frog Lube, Extreme Force, Clenzoil
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2024
- CLP Brands: Clenzoil, Break Free CLP, Slip 2000, Frog Lube, Hoppe’s, Extreme Force, Hoppe’s 9 Kit, Ballistol and Fluid Film. Testing approach took into consideration testing standards outlined in the Mil PRF 63460F. Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectants (CLPs) tested for: cleaning highly carbonized metal after 2 minutes of exposure to CLP and a 5-second cleaning process. Lubricating ability of CLPs tested using a lubricity tester. CLPs tested for the ability to resist rust, including after protected metal is exposed to heat. CLPs also tested for cold temperature performance at -40F. My goal is to always provide accurate and honest test results by avoiding outside pressure from manufacturers. To do this, I always buy all of the products that I test along with the test equipment and supplies used for the testing. So, thank you very much for helping me achieve this goal by your support of the channel.
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➡ Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
Clenzoil: amzn.to/3KkWonM
Break Free CLP: amzn.to/3tpqLmQ
Slip 2000: amzn.to/3Ftbynb
Frog Lube: amzn.to/3qsBB9X
Hoppe’s: amzn.to/3AaTi13
Extreme Force: amzn.to/3fkFRBQ
Hoppe’s 9 Kit: amzn.to/3zWH4J6
Ballistol: amzn.to/33vaTnV
Fluid Film: amzn.to/34P0q7A
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This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. Project Farm LLC - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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It would be nice to see a part 2 of this with a few of the best performers from this test compared to Rem Oil, 3-in-1 oil, WD-40, synthetic motor oil, etc. Thanks!
Thanks for the suggestion.
Yes, I also think that including a motor oil as a reference would be great. It will probably fail in the cleaning area but wear protection under various conditions should be excellent. My personal strategy would be to use a separate product to dissolve copper, lead and carbon deposits and then luse motor oil for lubrication.
That's a great suggestion
Surprised that the Lucas Oil CLP wasn't featured in this video.
Agreed. I’ve been using a mix of trans fluid and mineral spirits
Anytime Project Farm says "We're gonna test that" companies start sweating nervously. I love how you test things and prove/disprove any marketing wank.
Thanks!
@@ProjectFarm right to repair could use a voice like yours! Farmers newer trackers have become a 'specialist' product, which is a shame.
Yea, usually before I buy stuff I come to the channel to see if he’s reviewed it. I know I’ll get a no B.S. review of the product.👍
This one 😂 is the one ☝️ lol 😂
Yea it’s hard to get unbiased test like these, thanks for staying sponsor free.
May I say first of all that it never ceases to amaze me the amount of effort that Todd puts into these reviews and tests. He uses equipment and procedures that 99% of us neither have access to or patience to perform. Simply outstanding. I've watched several of his videos on products I don't even use simply because I love his approach and attention to detail. As to this particular test, it substantiates what I've thought all along. I've used Hoppe's and Break Free CLP for years not just on my firearms, but on different things that require similar cleaning and protection. Another thing, as I'm sure viewers have noticed, is that some of the more highly touted, sponsored and advertised products didn't perform nearly as well as the "old standards".
I felt bad to see Hoppe's not do better. I always felt that Hoppe's No.9 Nitro powder solvent was the ultimate in men's aftershave and cologne.
Thanks for the feedback.
Unfortunately, and especially on the internet, it's common to believe Hoppes No 9 is great for everything not realizing it's a bore cleaner not a CLP but even the Hoppes CLP wasn't great in this test.
@@CCW1911 I'm fully aware and realize what Hoppe's No 9 is for. I also know the difference between it, and a "Clean Lubricate and Protect" product. My comment pertained to my expectations of a Hoppe's product to perform better. I've been using their brand, along with others for over 50 years.
If you look at the overall scores I find it really didn't do that bad. Hoppe's most likely is a brand that wants to meet all requirements, even the milspec -40° (very respectable considering 3/4 of the brands dont even meet it). Cleaning can be done more thoroughly and I would bet the army doesn't use clenzoil xD
@@jnicksnewstart Also, just curious, have you ever had any issues? After 50+ years do you think now with this knowledge you would change anything? Im Canadian and only had my license for 2 years, i have zero experience compared to you xD hehe
It's been a while since we've seen one of your extremely thorough oil testing videos. :-) Can't wait to see which one performs best, I need some.
Thank you very much! By the way, GREAT job on your latest review!!
I love it when pros pump each other.
@@ProjectFarm Seems that a few of the lubricants didn't reach their peak performance until they heat up. Which would make sense, as the heat generated when you shoot is extreme; even with one shot. With this in mind, I believe the Frog Lube is actually better than represented.
@@ProjectFarm Please include G96 next time. I've seen that perform VERY well in other provider's tests and I use it.
@@ProjectFarm great video! A number of folks are using Mobil 1 oil also; would it be possible to do an add-on testing comparing these with Mobil 1 0W, 5W, and 10W ??? Thanks
As a Marine, I was rooting for the Break Free. It is the best in all categories but you do have to shake it 2000 times and have a Staff Sergeant motivating it reach its full potential. It also doubles as an after shave that the ladies love the smell of. Ok, not so much but my vote is still for Break Free.
Thanks for sharing.
I hear it's good when drizzled over crayons. Thanks for your service, Marine.
-Retired Army SFC
@@DesmoProfundis 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Break Free smells exactly like "Sex Panther"
I shower in that shit
We all have this man to thank for leading us to good quality products! Awesome video and great work as always PF!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Problem is that after the test Amazon or others sellers double the cost.
@@manyfeather2knives423 Like how AT205 was nowhere to be found after Scotty hyped it up. It's back at Napa for $20 now finally.
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ What did they clean and lube their firearms with? Asking for a friend.
In the Army there was only Breakfree CLP. That was it. We cleaned our rifles every single day in the field. That was always second on the priorities of work, right behind maintaining security. Your tests reinforced what I always intuitively knew, minimal corrosion protection with the CLP. We applied more in the rain, less in the sand, and cleaned them every day.
Thanks for sharing.
Had a well seasoned gunsmith tell me many years ago that I should be using Breakfree CLP,good stuff!
@@timtorkelson7201 In dry conditions yes. Its not very good in the rain or humid enviorment.
I also had the same experience while I was station at Fort Campbell, our weapons were rusty bitches.
Clp is amazing. Works perfectly. No matter how much carbon is on the 240B. 😂😂 it will be clean asap.
Clenzoil's lubrisity test is impressive, so much so I think it should be tested in other oil-applications outside of intended usage.
I sense the impending death of a lawn mower....
Thanks for the suggestion.
Its a good thing they have a multipurpose version of clenzoil
*Lawn mower cowering and shaking in the corner*
@@gumwap1 Briggs sacrifice to the gods of Stratton
I might have to switch gun cleaners to cleanzoil. The wear scar was outstanding I might not even use grease on the sliding surfaces. Break free came to a close second, but I live near the ocean so I want the better corrosion resistance. This was very comprehensive and would let people know what they would like depending on their individual requirements.
Same! I use shooter lube so I would have liked to see it in here but clanzoil looks like my new replacement
I think I will continue using Breakfree CLP and add some Froglube last to prevent corrosion.
He did not test it with a gun and how do you even do that? Does ANY oil really help? Not much.
You should check out weapon shield.
Honestly, it might make sense to use the Cleanzoil as a base and mix in your own secret blend of 11 herbs and spices to make it better. Right off the top of my head, I'm thinking a mixture of Cleanzoil, Moly Grease, and either graphite or Teflon powder might be the ticket.
After watching this, I went out and bought the Clenzoil CLP. I also bought some of their grease to use where it's needed.
Cleaned a couple of guns with it and they are working and looking great. Time will tell how well it works in the long run.
Thanks for sharing.
I’m new to firearms and just happened to but Clenzoil a few weeks ago to clean it the first time. So far no complaints!
@@ag95mboy Yeah, I'm working on two S&W revolvers right now. They had been stored dirty years ago and are in some need of deep cleaning. For the really nasty stuff, I just spray on some Clenzoil and let it soak a while before scrubbing with a brush. I also like the fact that the odor is so mild that I could use this inside the house if I wanted to. Not like the old school solvents.
@repentandbelieveinJesusChrist4 on TH-cam........
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ he said that many are called few will be CHOSEN. Or to clarify. As he said why call him Lord and do the things he says. Also said that if we live in his words and if his words lived in us then we will know the truth and the knowledge of the would set us free. (From being deceived)
*I'm currently nearly 62 years old, I've been cleaning firearms since my age was a single digit. Dad was a Recon Marine with medals for rifle & pistol shooting, competed in PALMA, taught me to hunt & shoot before I could ride a bicycle. (guess who got to clean the guns after a day's hunting and/or shooting?) I probably spend 50 hours a year at the Gun Range. Dad has been gone for over a decade, but the lessons he taught me in firearm maintenance are still with Me, my Sons and now, my Grand Daughters...I just got done cleaning this year's Deer Hunting firearms, (.308, 2x .243's, and a couple of 22LR pistols) all of which were very dirty. I live in West Nebraska and it's basically a dust bowl out here...Saw this on my feed and thought it would be interesting to watch. As per Norm, PF never fails to provide quality content....That said*
*Hoppe's #9 is primarily a solvent. It's intended use is for removing gun powder residue, copper & lead from gun barrels. So I would have to disagree with classifying it as a CLP. It's never been much of a lubricant and it's not supposed to be. Ballistol is basically the same product with the same intended uses. If you want lubrication. you want GUN OIL or you want a graphite based product, but be forewarned, graphite products can be messy & require mucho maintenance to prevent build up....CLP's are a bit of a misnomer and very much misunderstood among today's younger shooting population. I blame the Marketing Divisions of companies competing for shooter dollars...For the record, the last thing you want in a gun barrel is oil or any other product that might either impede the bullets path, affect the rifling's ability to engage the bullet, or raise chamber pressure. A dry clean barrel is always the goal. Bolts should be clean of any build up and either left dry or LIGHTLY lubricated....Some Hoppe's #9, a can of quality petro-based oil, like 3 in 1 or Outers is all anyone will ever need*
Thanks for the feedback.
58 here and we lived similar lives.. Totally agree with your sentiments...some of the products did surprise me.
Lies.
*No true 62 year old knows how to bold TH-cam comment text.*
@@libertyprime9307*I'll take that as a compliment, Junior* 👍🖕
You do know that Hoppes makes multiple products under the #9 banner? They make a lubricant, a CLP, and a bore cleaner.
As a mechanic that works on fighter jet weapons systems in the USAF, I can vouch for Breakfree CLP being a great choice for extreme conditions as we use it on several systems. :)
Thanks for the feedback. Thanks for your service in the USAF!
Issint that confidential.
Im just messing around, dont SWAT me :)
@Benjamin C. Hey, none of what I disclosed is controlled information. I just mentioned a mil-spec lubricant used for aircraft throughout the DOD. All of that is common knowledge. I did not present any opinions on behalf of the USAF, I just said that what we are provided with seems to be effective based on my experience.
As far as me disclosing that I am in the military, please let me know if there is a DOD instruction that states I can't do that. It may not be recommended, but in real life it would be fairly tough to gather more than a name from what I have said here or anywhere.
@@bignuance ngl I think ben might be joking around
@@cheif1776 nah he ain’t. Old AF guys always act like they got the keys to Area 51 in their junk drawer in my experience.
One thing that is important and not as easy to test is how well the product works after two+ years sitting on the surface of a firearm. Full synthetics are the best in that regard.
Yeah, see how much they evaporate and how hard the residu becomes
Breakfree CLP will form a brown shellac that is easily mistaken for rust.
Also how is flows, if it sits you don’t want it to just fall away.
@TheCheesePlease I’m gonna guess you don’t own any firearms…
In most occasions it takes significantly less than that for a gun oil to gum up. I'd say 3-4 months in open container and 1/16" film should be enough to tell if evaporation or some other reaction with air (oxygen?) is enough to gum up the oil.
This was a great review for all in one CLPs; but I'd love to see a review on the solvents tested by themselves, oils tested by themselves, greases tested themselves, and even dry lubes as well. I think this would provide a clear winner for each job.
Thanks for the suggestion.
especially since CLP is trying to do somewhat contradictory things so all in one doesn't seem like a good idea to me at all.
@@CitiesTurnedToDust I don't think all in one is a any good you need two step one to clean and one to protect and lubricate
Thanks for another great test. Something to realize is the one thing that Ballistol does that NONE of the others do is neutralize the corrosives from shooting black powder or ammunition with corrosive primers, which a lot of older surplus ammo has. It also does not negatively affect wood or leather.
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Yeah, I was hoping the Ballistol would perform better because I use it for its other properties (I like old guns), I didn't want a reason to buy yet more products.
@@jonkrier
Exactly my thoughts
And it's non-toxic. I have used it to fry eggs in the field.
@@dontblameme6328smelled worse than if they wouldve spoiled
A good thing to note;
The lubricity test should be the most important factor because we can clean off dust or even light surface corrosion but we cannot replace metal that has been worn away.
Great video, keep on testing
So a good question I have is, would Break Free's LP perform better than the CLP being that it doesn't have the cleaning agent in it and is directly for Lubricating and Protecting.
@@df3624 I'd be interested in him testing that as well. I hope he adds that to part 2.
Except that this test doesnt really mimic what parts go through. I have used Ballistol and Hoppes since forever, and none of my firearms have any wear other than bore/chamber from round count. Like, zero wear.
@@daflea66 I think wear and tear experience is pretty subjective, with some people having fired 500,000 rounds and others in the thousands. Different firearms also have much different tolerances. An $800 firearm will have less wear than a $2000 Les Baer or WC that has tight tolerances, and in both cases the wear probably won't be noticeable until you rest them on a bench rest and test fire at 50 yards. I don't compete so I doubt that I can really benefit from the differences in all these excellent oil. :)
@@lanzer22 Im saying a straight up bearing test I think is extreme, there arent any conditions in a gun that would do that. I use the brands that did poorly here and have 0 wear that isnt supposed to wear, like extractors and chambers
This channel has some of the most detail oriented content I've ever seen, congrats
Thanks!
This was a great test. I have been holding off on selecting the best CLP and was glad the Break Free CLP did so well but was happy with the Clenzoil's performance and the two winners were in the least expensive category too which was great. Thank you for checking these out and eliminating a lot of the hype.
Thanks and you are welcome!
The extent, time and consideration you put into all of your tests is mind-blowing and borderline overwhelming in a good way. They just keep getting better! This man must be protected at all costs!
Thanks!
another national treasure!
Great video! I wish the video would have included WD-40 and cheap motor oil in the tests, as I've heard plenty of people claim that that either of those is superior to the CLP products.
I always hear people talk about wd40 for so many things and I have never had wd40 work great at anything outside of cleaning off certain surfaces. Its not technically a real lubricant so I personally would never use it on my guns.
I would believe motor oil simply by anecdote with all my automotive tools covered in it but WD-40 doesn't stand a chance, especially in the oven test.
When I lived in Alaska we would always put a light coat of WD-40 on our rifles and backup guns when hunting in the rain, which was very frequent. It always did an excellent job of preventing rust on our firearms.
@@ronnie3044 I agree. I use M-Pro 7 LPX on all of my firearms and knives.
Synthetic oil and synthetic grease are the best at metal on metal nothing else comes close. Think of the forces on engine parts , axle gears and bearings.. By mixing the two you can change viscosity as needed for change in climate. Carbon, powder, copper removal is a different deal for that use Hoppe,s 9..
The world needs more people like you so we can make sure we’re not falling for product lies and marketing.
Thanks!
If you do one of these in the future it would be helpful to know at what temp the lubes stop working. For instance, if it never gets colder than -10 where I live, perhaps some of the lubes that failed at -40 would still be viable options for a vehicle gun. Thanks for all your great videos!
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
Not sure under what circumstances you'd store your gun in a vehicle, but hopefully it's out of sight and in a substantial lock box.
@@ProjectFarm I'll second this. Knowing your CLP can keep things lubricated at 20 vs 0 vs -20F is a big boon. That being said, the Clenzoil still flowed a bit at -40 so here's hoping..
@@ProjectFarm Oh, btw. Next time you do any thermal testing, put a big thermal mass in the chamber (like a rock, cinderblock, something with high heat capacity that isn't metal) and let it heat/cool to the desired temp before putting in the samples. That thermal mass will really help keep your transients in check.
@@brianfolding40 Thanks Karen, I will store my firearm how I please and is most readily available, mind ur business and u won’t have a problem
Would like to add my experience with froglube here. His tests are very good but he did not test how well they perform on firearms after being in storage. I was solidly in camp froglube because of the non-hazardous material and pleasant smell, as well as the purported good lubrication. I used it on everything. I have more guns than I care to mention so even when I shoot regularly, some of them inevitably sit for awhile. After 6+ months of sitting in a safe, froglube will gum up, will semi-solidify, and will cause malfunctions. It made an AR action very difficult to rack, and it more or less stopped my 1911 TRP from working. You could pull the slide back, release it, and the slide would crawl the last half inch to get back into battery. Imagine having this stuff on a carry gun on your side that is unfired for over 6 months. Highly believable, especially with the wider variance in temperatures that you're sure to see versus the gun sitting in a safe.
Do not use froglube.
Same thing happened to my 10/22. Took it out to shoot after a few months of sitting in it's carry bag. Lots of clicks but no bangs. Ends up the frog lube had basically glued the firing pin into place. Ended up breaking the whole action down and cleaning with alcohol, and just went back to my regular go to, Mobile 1 synthetic 10-30.
Frog lube is garbage----when ANY product says it was made by a "Navy Deal" you know it is BS.....
Same thing happened to me… every single gun…. Never again
" Imagine having this stuff on a carry gun on your side that is unfired for over 6 months " not saying your wrong but this statement alone is crazy.... youd never have an EDC that went unfired for half of a year.........
While I agree about storage, the carry gun issue isn't as bad as your body heat typically keeps it from gumming up.
All I can say is, if Project Farm had a magazine and a searchable database, it would put the well known "CR" OUT OF BUSINESS ! - Great video as always and like others, I would love to see this test expanded on.
I no longer subscribe to CR ... they seem more focused on their WOKE and Climate positions than product reviews.
@@brettlathrope3612 Well said. I dropped it too.
So you think PF is going to spend the time and money to do long term testing on microwaves, vacuum cleaners, washers and dryers, cars, lawnmowers, ovens, kitchen mixers, blenders, mattresses, electric toothbrushes..ect? Pf does a really great job on small batches of relatively small testing. Nowhere near the time, money, and effort of CR. If you don't like the CR results, but like them here, that's because of your emotions, not because of the test results are wrong. Sounds like you are injured because your favorite car or truck brand isn't the top rated. Guess what, it's probably because it's true. Both PF and CR use data which is logical not emotional. Get over your emotions.
@@rickyanke9407 whoa, settle down dude. They never said it was because their favorites were voted negatively by cr.
@@rickyanke9407 You are missing the point ... I can get the same information elsewhere on the net (like here) that I can get from Consumer Reports, and I refuse to support an organization that takes my subscription dollars and spends it on causes I not only don't support, but in some cases actually oppose.
So I am doing what I can do ... voting with my wallet.
I’m extremely thankful for the work and test that you performed concerning these products, you just saved me a lot of money, you are my to go channel for almost everything, thanks again 😊
Thank you for this video and for all the effort that went into testing these products. We spend hard earned money on our beloved firearms, and need to know what products protect them best.
Having recently gone to Clenzoil, I can honestly say it is the best I've found so far at cleaning up the gunk and residue. Since I'm in Florida, I'm not going to worry about it freezing on me, but I was surprised at that part of the test. Very nice testing sir, and very helpful to us firearm guys.
You are welcome!
When I was in the army when we got back from the range we had a can of spray carburetor cleaner to flush out all that carbon and dirt. After that it was a toothbrush, laundry soap and the hottest water we could find. (Mess hall imersion heater to rinse. Rifle would instantly dry and then we lubed up. GIs always find the fastest easiest ways to get it done cause the armoror would kick back any weapon with the slightest amount of carbon.
Sharing this glorious state of Florida with you, and it looks like I'll be investing in a bottle of Clenzoil as well.
Yeah, i'm in South Florida and the Clenzoil was most impressive. Will definitely buy a bottle. I'm curious how it would stack up against my personal favorite, Lucas "Extreme Duty" CLP.
@@HomesteadOnThePreserve Mark Novac from S. Carolina, one of, if not the best gunsmith in the world, swears by the Lucas gun oil.
“Unfortunately, the Extreme Force is extremely solid right now.” 🤣 I love this channel. I came for the unbiased, real-world testing, but I keep coming back for the deadpan humor. 👍🏼
I'd love to see a review of wheeled mechanic's stools, with or without "tractor" type seats, with or without "backs", all with height adjustments but not necessarily all on a hydraulic piston. Love your well thought out and executed tests and your fast paced and humorous delivery (like the dance-off competition between the power wrenches). 😃
Thanks for the suggestion.
If you do another one of these, I would love to see how Lucas Extreme Duty CLP holds up. It seems to perform miracles for many folks I know.
Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm and shooters choice clp!
I'd have also loved to see a lubricity test after the freezing. As well as a heating + lubricity test after freezing. Lastly a frozen strength test to see if it will seize up the moving parts of your gun if you were to let it freeze. To gauge how much wear there will be if you just started using your firearm without allowing it to warm up first, if it will lock up in the cold, or if the frozen lubricant immediately melts down and retains its lubrication after being frozen
I really like the idea of seeing if it will freeze bearings together with small amounts of oil
most army's use DRY guns in cold temps for exactly that reason.. machine guns get special low temp lubes.
back in WW2 the troops were taught to use a PENCIL for the graphite in the M1 GARAND..
very interesting results; thanks
This is the crossover we need!
Fair enough
@@jamses23 one is a shill with no value add and the other is a research based testing channel with over abundance of value, let’s not mix the two lol
@@josh48315 "indeed"
The owner/chemist of G96 told me, several years ago, at the SHOT Show, that the G96 CLP was the only CLP that met the original Military Specifications for a CLP. Because the government couldn't rely on a sole source the government reduced one of the requirements. With the reduced requirements several other CLPs met the modified Military Specifications.
The one specification that was met by G96 in the original specs that the others did not meet was rust resistance, according to the company owner/chemist.
Thanks for sharing.
I had never heard of clenzoil. I think they just got a new customer. It doesn’t get below 0 here so I wouldn’t need a lubricant that remains in liquid form at extremely low temperature. Great video.
Thanks!
I remember for my 8th grade science fair project, I compared the properties of gun oils. I was a Hoppes fan until I did the testing. Since then ive been using the Break Free CLP. Id like to note that when compared to Rem Oil, Hoppes oil, and another gun oil I don't remember, it exceeded in corrosion resistance. It may not be the best CLP at rust resistance, but it was better than the mainstream names in the gun oil industry. Great test Todd 👍 keep up the great work.
Breakfree CO is great corrosion resistance and for long term storage. CLP for every day or week use
I used Ballistol on knives 🔪 guns car stuff since 1997. It worked well for many years. I'd use a gun oil on the firearm barrel for added protection. Slip 2000 EWL is a great product too. I expected it to perform better.
One of the tests, dirt attraction, was interesting. When I was in Iraq/Afghanistan we used CLP. The old advise was "don't lubricate much because it attracted dirt and will gum up the action" the real trick was to lube the hell out of the thing and let the CLP wash out the dirt.
I ran my bitch dry
im a bike courier and i say the same thing about chain lube.
Great feedback! Thank you
Depends on the environment. No matter what, if you're in adverse elements, (sand, heat, salt) lube and clean daily.
Our supply provided us with Otis CLP with an NSN in Iraq.
I really like the way you test these products. I was just recommended Clenzoil by my local gun range not long ago and it works great. I am in Texas, so the below freeze temperatures for long periods do not affect me as much as northern states.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I’m not a heavily religious man but I think god he made you, truly exceptional work as always my friend. In a murky world overrun with paid advertising and corporations owning scientist and test studies, you shine bright. We are all lucky to have you mate.
Thanks!
Great information. I’m moving my Ballistol to the back of my supply cabinet. For years the old timers in my muzzleloading club all swore it was the absolute best for Blackpowder guns. You and Cyclops Joe are my go-to guys for honest reviews. Can’t thank you both enough. Merry Christmas🎄
Thanks! Merry Christmas!
I have a friend that is a 12 time world champion, muzzleloader shooter, he also builds rifles, he told me that I should always clean the inside of my barrels with hot boiling water with water, soluble oil placed in the water, and then swabbed back-and-forth out of the container that had this combination, when finished, the residue was gone I gently wiped it out because the heat in the barrel pretty well dried everything and then applied German gun oil to the muzzleloader, I’ve been doing this for years and it works. Perfect, I just thought I would pass that on.
PS One of the muzzleloaders that he built for me, has been sitting for better than 10 years , the other day, I took it out and inspected it, visually, and with a borescope, and the inside of the barrel was as brand new !
Hope this helps ! 😊
I second the idea of a part 2 on this video. Although I wouldn't consider it a CLP, School of the American Rifle mixes Mobil 1 5w-30 with Mobil 1 red high temp grease to a honey consistency and I use it on everything. I love the smooth action it makes, not to mention the amount of lube you get for the money. I'd love to see how it fairs against a lubricity test and corrosion resistance test. Huge fan and keep up the great content
Thanks for the suggestion.
Take a look at the Ed's Red recipe for cleaner/lube.
I also use SOTARacha on my ARs, but I use FP-10 on my pistols. It's like $10-15 for 4oz. Would love to see FP-10 in a part 2.
I'm also in on a Part 2 to this video. There is a lot of snake oil in the gun oil products. I also use School of the American Rifle (SOTAR Sauce) mix and use it on aR's at a professional level on thousands of guns a year. Additionally, I would like to see Weapons Shield as the owner as used this test on to sell his products and an independent test would be enlightening. The other lube I've use for a very long time is Lucas gun lube, which is think is just a re-purposed motorcycle fork oil. These have all worked well in guns in the past.
Also, if you want some of the three above products to test, PM me. I have all of them at the Gunstore I work at and can readily shoot off a test package.
I’d love to see Lucas CLP in one of these tests. It beat out everything in my anti corrosion testing, including Hornady one shot, and the Hornady one shot HD extreme. Fluid film failed early.
Never tried it but I keep reading great things about it.
And it softens up new carbon nicely. Seems to work pretty well for that and cleaning. I’ve been using it for a while but I also add a little oil for more lube.
I use the Honrady One Shot and wouldn't mind seeing that as well, along with some of the other brands out there, like Remington's and I believe Winchester has an oil as well. Also, Royal Purple and AMSOIL products included as well.
I just got a can of the Lucas CLP a couple months ago. So far I’m really liking it. Haven’t tried to test it for corrosion yet. But seems like it lubricates just as well as the breakfree that I’ve used for years.
maybe Amsoil gun oil as well
This review sold more gun cleaner than any other review and i never saw a gun . Great review as always
Thanks!
@@ProjectFarm The only thing you discovered was which gun oil would make the best engine oil. I’ve used them all except one. Their only difference is their smell.
I just have to say thank you, sir. This information is invaluable to the firearms community and many others. I would absolutely LOVE to see a part 2 with other popular CLP's like RemOil, Lucas Oil Extreme Duty, DRNCH, Mossy Oak CLP, Steel Shield, etc. Maybe even an engine oil of your choosing for the sake of comparison.
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
I use Hoppe’s #9 as a cleaner, then apply the break free CLP to my firearms. Works great so far. Even on my duck hunting shotgun (Browning maxus) that has 10 seasons on it and has been dunked under water and sees +/-thousand rounds per year with hunting and target shooting its rust free, has minimal wear and functions great. Never a hiccup even when hunting in freezing rain with the gun that hadn’t been cleaned all of duck season. I left with freezing rain sticking to my jacket, a limit of ducks, and a dirty but still functioning shotgun. And I attribute that to the Breakfree CLP, I have seen many autoloaders gum up and slow down enough to fail to function on cold hunts using other lubricants like Balistol.
Ballistol is water based. I feel it's okay for quick cleaning after using surplus corrosive ammo and on muzzle loaders between shots, but I agree 1000% with what you said. Hoppe's to clean, CLP to lube. It's the only way.
This is what I've been doing as well, when I come back from the range. Clean really thoroughly with Hoppe's #9, then apply some Breakfree CLP at the points where things rub together. I might switch to Clenzoil after seeing this. What a dramatic difference in wear.
Ducks: "I'm glad theres freezing rain today, no one will be out here hunting"
You: "clicks safety off"
I'm not a major hunter or clay shooter, but I've found shotguns are a lot more forgiving when being filthy, probably due to the plastic hulls. I just use some brake cleaner to clean it and then soak everything in motor oil on my 16 gauge sxs because I'm cheap but I've never had issues lol.
Thanks for sharing.
I’ve used just about everything on this list at one point or another. Right now I actually have a big bottle of slept 2000. For the sloppy loose tolerances in a non-match handgun it fits my needs just fine. I have a friend who coach the outside of his pistol slide with frog lube so when it comes in contact with his sweat it doesn’t corrode as much. He uses something else for internal parts because living in a cold climate we already knew frog lube wasn’t much good in the winter.
You could very very easily do a part two through seven on this subject.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Live in PA and never had a problem with frog lube in the winter..it has to be applied correctly
@@scottporter4573 They had an old formula that would dry out over time and become ridiculously thick, even solid.
You probably have the newer formula.
I also have great results in the cold with FrogLube, the gun must be completely clean of petroleum based products when the froglube is applied or it will react and form a dirty sludge. Also warming the parts so that the froglube melts and runs freely is very important, wipe as much off as you can after applying, otherwise excess lube will firm up and cause problems.
I've got a tube of Lucas Gun Grease that I dab in the slide rails.
It stinks when it gets hot.
Love your videos! I've been using Breakfree for a long time for many applications, it's a phenomenal penetrating lubricant as well for breaking-free rusted together components. I once was given a bicycle that had been left out on a balcony by the beach for years. The owner believed it was a total loss as virtually all the parts were seized with corrosion. I applied Breakfree to every interface and left it over night. The next day, the bike was ridable again and could be easily disassembled for servicing. It still needed a few new parts to be properly functional, but everything was movable again.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I've always been very skeptical of the all-in-one CLP concept (after all, a cleaner is a solvent that removes things like - lubricants!) and this test only reinforces that. Would like to see a separate test, maybe just lube and protection without cleaning. Definitely would like to see Corrosion X, as that has done well in other tests I've seen. And WRT corrosion, maybe include WD-40, since I have heard legendary things about its protective properties (I know it isn't a lube). Would also like to see how "Gun Butter" does in your tests.
I also think there is a difference for carry guns, versus long term storage, where corrosion is the main concern vs lube.
I typically clean a gun with some light solvent, then vibratory clean, then lube/coat with Corrosion X.
Thanks for sharing.
I dont know how he does it but this man takes the time to respond to soo many people, that alone shows how much effort he puts in his channel! Not to mention the time he puts in his videos. Amazing content
Thanks!
You got that right a lot of what I buy depends on his diagnosis of his products that he tests
Lucas Oil Extreme Duty CLP is highly recommended in many gun stores. I’d love to see a part 2 showdown with a few other products. Someone mentioned WD-40. That would be neat to see as well. Thanks again for all your hard work.
Smythbusters did a video about how wd40 shouldn’t be used
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
Good idea, Zachary. I'd like to see Lucas and M-7 in a "part 2" as well, since those are two that I have that are both highly rated.
@@ProjectFarm if there’s to be a “Round two” I’d recommend a recipe called *Ed’s* *Red*
I agree with the Lucas extreme. I was hoping it was part of this test.. hopefully there’s a part two.
Thank you for this video. What an eye opener. This comparison helped me move from my old standby to a better lubricant. You did good.
Shoot, it was very interesting to see how these products performed under extreme conditions. Nice work as always!
I used Break Free for many years (from my military time) and bought some bottles of Cleanzoil a few years ago. I used it on my AR and it seemed to gum up the bolt pretty bad. When I turned that rifle into my Armorer for servicing, he did not know what I had used but thought I had spilled a Coke into my rifle it was so gummed up! I like it for exterior protection, but don't trust Cleanzoil for those interior action high temps.
Use synthetic transmission fluid or hi-temp synthetic wheel bearing grease for the rails.
i like to use a tiny amount of NLGI #2 heavy duty grease that i apply with a tiny paintbrush on parts that are moving metal against metal its never failed me as its rated for high and low temps and is virtually waterproof. for cleaning i just use either cleaners or if im out and about break-free since its easy enough to get a bottle from work lol
Better not have a dirty starfish, if I get dirty stuff on my finger after putting it in your starfish you didn't do a good job lol
You had an AR in the military?
@@samcoon6699 I Was trying to figure out the context. Seems to be he used Break Free in military, once out used Clenziol on an AR. The confusing part is "armorer". If armorer = civilian gunsmith it makes more sense, otherwise ???
I've heard over the years that Hoppe's is the go-to. Thanks for taking the time to perform this great test and opening my eyes.
You are welcome!
Hoppes No. 9 still is the gold standard for ordinary bore cleaning, IMNSHO by far the hardest part of routine firearm maintenance.
If your bore is heavily copper-fouled (far too long between bore cleanings), then a judicious application of Shooter's Choice is in order to get rid of all those copper deposits.
Shooter's Choice is wonderful stuff, but it is essential to follow the instructions to the letter or you will cause permanent damage to the gun bore, and it should not be used as a normal bore cleaner because of how aggressive the chemicals in it are.
Use SC for a particularly heavily coppered up bore once, then stick with No. 9 thereafter, cleaning once every 20-30 rounds with centerfire rifles.
@@ProjectFarm Amsoil makes gun lube!
Thank you for doing this comparison! I would really love to see you do another with the various Lucas Oil prodicts, Shooter Lube, Rem Oil, and even more!
Again, thank you for everything you do for us!!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
Also an overlooked Aerokroil which is often used by competition shooters
Thank you once again for the time and energy you put into these reviews. Awesome tests.
Thanks and you are welcome!
I say thankyou sir, for producing another quality test. You make buying a quality tool/item much easier. Saving me money.
Thank you very much!
I switched to break free clp back in the 90's after experiencing how well it performed in the Canadian army. It is a bit disappointing in preventing rust. I might start doing a final, storage wipe with fluid film. Great video, as always
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
I didn't know Canada had an army ? Lol just kidding with my neighbor to the north.
Break free makes two types of gun oil. The LP and the COLLECTOR OIL. Both are very good at rust and wear protection.
Thank you again for doing these tests..much better than taking a guess based on what others usually buy or which one costs the most because we really dont know which one is actually good by reading the labels. Testing is the only way to know so thank you for doing it for us.
One note on the cold test, typically you want to run your guns dry if you are temps that low because any lubrication will gum up and cause malfuntions a lot of duck hunters run their firearms dry due to this and being in very low temps
Thanks for the feedback.
@@ProjectFarm thanks for the video! Excellent job!
My dad learned to winter lube in Korea by rubbing pencil "lead" on the moving surfaces of the Garand. So I use powdered graphite or dry. Unless you have hordes of enemy soldiers charging you, running dry should not be a problem with any decent firearm.
Mechanical things often malfunction at extremely low temperatures, as they're designed primarily function at normal temperatures. Since there are lubricants that stay liquid and lubricious at "artic winter" temperatures, I'd use them or a dry lubricant like graphite powder rather than go totally dry. While modern firearms will often function dry, especially with some of the slick metal finishes now available, there's no reason to since you can get liquid lube that will stay liquid. I remember an arctic temperature testing video her on TH-cam by Bigshooterist in Maine. I think the product was called Liberty Lube. It functioned well as a liquid lubricant in extremely low temperatures.
But yes, if all you have is "any old lube", as the Project Farm video here shows it's better to have no lubricant than one which may freeze in your gun and actually _increase_ friction, jamming it up.
I've been using Hoppes for years, might give Clenzoil a try. The Hoppes works great for soaking the fuel injection nozzles for my aircraft engine. Thanks Mr Farm, great test.
Have you tried seafoam? Cleans carbs to brand new in 24 hours
@@freedomgunsandliberty so does oven cleaner but that can do it in a lot less time! That doesn’t mean it’s good.
Good luck. I have tried several products over the years and always come back to Hoppe’s #9 using separate products. None of the one size fits all works as well as individual purpose built products.
@@Alexander_l322 seafoams safe on plastic and rubber. Oven cleaner is not
Been using clenzoil for many years and my dad used it many years before me. Good veteran owned company
Thank you for doing this video. There is so much snake oil in the industry these days, it's great to see product claims being put to the test. You're the best, man!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Is Snake Oil as good as Frog Lube?😆
I agree. About every 10min, some new high tech whiz bang oil or cleaner comes along. Most are just simple formula products with bro vet or fancy labels. 😒 Use a well made CLP or oil.
Awesome comparison! I'm going to have to pick up some Clenzoil for sure for my firearms. I use strictly Ballistol for cleaning my airguns because it's safe for the seals and doesn't build up and cause dieseling. I always use a different product on the externals for corrosion protection and lubrication.
Would love to see you do a comparison review on some of the top selling pistol-sized gun safes for home use.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
Great evaluation. I second what J.Nicholsen said. Been using Hoppes for decades but I'm convinced there are better options and will be buying Clenzoil.
Thanks!
I've use Hoppes #9 solvent for my entire lifetime (I'm 65 now), and your test proved that it is at the top of the list as a cleaning solvent, which is all I use it for. It excels in that role. However, I always follow up with a protective wipe of oil for the corrosion protection. You can't argue the fact that Hoppes has been making Hoppes #9 product for almost 120 years. Must be doing something right!
Thanks for the feedback.
62 and it reminds me of my younger days
I agree. I've never had any corrosion issue using Hoppes #9. But then, I clean after every use and lightly oil after cleaning.
I've noticed that as well. That's why my range bag has a bottle of hoppes for barrels and a bottle of CLP for bolts
This one was aimed straight at my heart. I've always used Hoppes#9 for cleaning but I use oil for lubrication. You did not feature the brand of oil that I use, and it has a very good reputation, but that Clenzoil lubricity test was amazing and I think I will look for some of that. What a great test... I eagerly look forward to your videos every Sunday and today was a real treat!
Thanks! Glad to hear!
"We're gonna test that" is such a catch phrase. My favorite is the slight chuckle when he says it.
Thanks!
One of the classic uses for ballistol is diluted (AKA Moose Milk) for keeping black powder revolvers running without binding in long range sessions and competition events. It would be interesting to compare in that application with other options like spray break free.
Thanks for sharing.
My dad was a gunsmith for many years and truly believed in the Break Free CLP for general lubrication but the Hoppe's was his choice for bore cleaner. He would brush the bore and turn it muzzle down for 24 hours. The next day he would swab the bore and that would come out green. That would be copper or brass residue. Repeat process for three four times till the patches came out clean. Some would say overkill but shooting for accuracy would demand such treatment.
Precision Shooters actually do not want to remove the fouling. And when they do have a clean bore they first want to run some rounds through and foul it up to tighten up their groups That's actually a thing and it works.
Thanks for sharing.
@@actionjksn yep, think about it. You start with a clean bore and you’re making it dirty. Your group is bound to move. We always shot 5-10 rounds into the practice bullseye before moving to the targets that counted. Not just to dirty the bore but to warm it up too.
Boretech is top of the line. Really good stuff for barrels
@@drbobvs I AGREE
The problem with Ballistol is it was made in 1905. Literally the first CLP and they haven't changed it. It still does well in real world use.
I bought Ballistol back in the days cause it was suggested by a friend, does it really differ from WD-40 ?
And you can use it for nearly everything imaginable 😂
@@coses4957 You can even drink it.
@@dimmacommunication yes. WD-40 does not work on guns. It turns into varnish and locks everything up.
Nearly half the business the old gunsmith in town has is simply boiling and cleaning WD-40 varnish out of guns that are brought in "because they don't work!"
Ballistol dries clean. It stinks in a way different way also.
@@coses4957 yeah its the most versatile and biodegradable. Smells great too.
Ive been using Frog Lube for almost 10 years now and its always worked just fine for all my pew pews. Granted I don't live in colder climates but after about 3-5 rounds the Frog Lube starts to melt turning into a liquid to lubricate the gun, This is why they tell you when applying new lube to use a heat gun or blow dryer to melt the Frog Lube so it gets in all the tight places and then once it cools down its turns back into a cream again.
Thanks for sharing!
Yeah, I think this is a downfall of the product in this test. Being a solid at room temp, it doesn't have the same properties as the other lubricants. Instructions clearly say to heat the metal to 120F, apply, let sit, wipe off. It should not be wet on the item and should not leave visible clumps when it cools back to room temp.
I think it's interesting how Fluid Filp performed. It beat many application specific products, finishing mid pack or near the top with the only fail being the cold test. Impressive product.
Well, many firearms products are notorious for being advertised as an "application specific formula", only to find out that it's just a generic product commonly used in other industries, but with a catchy name and a good marketing campaign specifically for the firearms industry(I guess the marketing is the "application specific formula" here...). Especially lubes & cleaners lol.
This is a great idea, loved it! There are many gun cleaners/lubes on the market and among gun owners this type of thing is almost religion. I think we definitely need more episodes. Many old timers swear by quality synthetic motor oils like mobil 1 and other specified products like Mil-Comm MC2500, shooter lube, weapon shield, mpro-7, g-96 and Hornady one-shot to name a few. Excellent work!
Hornady One Shot is a dry lubricant. I think it's silicone based. I don't use it internally, but I will use it on the exterior so I don't get oil on my holster or clothing. You can also use one of those Otis silicone rags and it will dry to the touch.
@@lonewanderer3603 cool, thanks for the info
Thank you for this. If you want to go deeper into Fudd lore: transmission oil, red and white lithium grease, and motor oil are said to work too.
I use 10W30 because that's what my car takes lol
Motor oil is very, very good. Although the Fudds tend to be the ones using Hoppes because "that's what you do", while the practical ones realize that an oil designed to clean and resist carbon makes sense.
Look up "Ed's red" recipe.
Fudd lore? My ak and saiga both get red bearing grease on the bolt, bolt carrier and rails. Works great
Great video! Please consider an updated CLP video that includes Lucas Extreme Duty CLP and Rand CLP. Lucas has been touted as being better than the 'popular go to's', and Rand is supposedly non-toxic (possibly vegetable oil based) and supposedly works as well or better than a lot of the others. Lucas has been in the oil game for a long time. A lot of folks have been raving about their CLP.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
Would love to see you test Lucas Oil as well. It's what I use for my own guns, and some of my other moving metal parts around the house. Plus it smells fantastic.
Hmm.. Time to order some Clenzoil! Love to see a series on Gun Oils. Lucas gun oil, shooter lube, hoppes etc. Thanks Todd. Great work as always!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
This one was all over the place. Typically you will find one superior product but they're all better at specific tasks. Great video 👍
agree... at this point we need to make a mix of them all into one tube.
@@laptopdragon can we patent mixing other products 🤣
That's why I like these tests and analyzing the results to what meets your needs.
It always amazes me that people will still say "you didn't say what the best one was"... Umm, really? isn't it obvious when you think about your requirements and or use case?
I've used Break-Free CLP all of my life and it's served me well. Shocked it didn't do better in the
corrosion test but it did pretty good over-all. Outstanding test as always from PF!
You have to let it soak for about 2 hours.
I use it too, and never had any corrosion problems. I imagine you are like me and keep your guns well cleaned.
@@doublel7337 Yeah my stuff stays well cleaned and pretty much pampered so I'd never see corrosion .
Would love to see Part 2 with Ed's Red, ATF, 5-30w Mobil 1, Breakthrough High Purity Oil / HP Pro, Lucas CLP / Extreme and re-do Froglube applied as following their instructions (maybe do it as the last wear test in order to do so). Thanks for testing things I didn't know I wanted to see tests of!
Thanks for the suggestion.
In addition to the 9 products tested in this video, I came across these:
Sentry Solutions - Tough Glide CDLP,
Pro Shot - 1 Step CLP,
Advance Weapons Tech - Extreme Force CLP,
Lucas - Extreme Duty CLP,
Real Avid - TriMax CLP,
Strike Hold - CLP / gun oil,
Shooters Choice - FP10 CLP,
Corrosion Technologies - Ultimate CLP,
Mil-Comm - One Step gun oil,
Mossy Oak - All in one CLP,
Sta-Bil - Gin CLP,
Hornady - One Shot Gun Cleaner,
Tetra - Triple Action,
Modern Spartan Systems - starter kit plus (individual cleaners & lube / protector)... [fwiw: claims it improves accuracy 90-95% of the time],
...whew...
There are certainly more, but the testing should clearly differentiate the general-purpose, marketing gimic, "snake oils" from those legitimate products that work effectively.
I'm ordering the Clenzoil (based on these test results) and will order the Lucas CLP to try as well. Thanks for the great videos and testing!!!! 👍👍
I also would like to see the Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil get tested. Add Amsoil Firearm Lubricant to the test list. Amsoil has a separate cleaner product, which might make it a better lube than the Ballistol, which is what I have been using. Ballistol smells good, if that counts for anything!
@@jakal104 Hi Jim, here's a couple more. Militec 1 and Klean Bore Formula 3. Both made in USA.
Frog lube is trash. It's coconut oil with scent and viscosity modifiers. You have to wipe it all off or it gums up your guns, hence the "high tech" application instructions lol.
Very well done. Many people I know of have used Redline CV-2 synthetic grease claiming superior reduction in slide wear to all else. Also EEZOX has been extolled to this regard. Love to see them in a round 2.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Eezox also did very well in a test in one of the gun blogs.
Testing was way more involved than I guessed it would be. Outstanding effort with it all, running through all the various tests & comparisons. Appreciate it.
Thanks so much!
Thanks for the CLP tests, Todd. Back in the day Hoppe's used to be the go-to CLP for law enforcement, military, gun smiths and just firearms owners in general. It has a very distinctive odor that I think has somehow permanently permeated my nostrils....lol. My dad was a police officer back in the 70's and 80's, when I was growing up. I can still remember "equipment cleaning day" in the garage, when the smell of Hoppe's and Kiwi black shoe polish would permeate the air. Oh, the good ol' days. I still use Hoppe's to this day, and it still works and smells great. However, it looks like there may be some better CLP products on the market these days.👍👍
Hoppes is best as a cleaner, I wouldn't use it as a lubricant or preservation agent.
The smell of Hoppe’s gets my heart beating.
I've been using Hoppes 30+ years and LOVE the smell. Might have to start using it as a cologne.
Sadly some years back Hoppes changed their formula and the newer stuff is distinctly less effective.
The smell of Hoppes 9 always takes me back to deer camp when I was a kid and it was standard to take the first week off of school. Teachers would assign work ahead of time knowing few boys would be showing up. I even bought a Hoppes 9 air freshener for my car.
i came looking for a quick video about cleaning products. i found a gold mine information. thank you for your work
Thanks for doing these! Really appreciate your methodical approach!
You are welcome!
What an interesting test. I'm so glad you did this because I've been using Clenzoil on my guns, outboards, and rods and reels for years. I am among their pro-staff for field use since I run fishing charters. I can certainly vouch for the product as it maintains my reels, guns, and other items in some of the most corrosive atmospheres. Thanks for a great test!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Im curious as to the difference between the marin and the range. I use both, but I would like to know if the marine and tackle are more rust preventing. I dont need it to lube as much as to clean salt and prevent rust.
I have been running synthetic motor oil in all my firearms for years, and it has worked great. I'd like to see a comparison with engine oil.
Yep,nothing comes close to synthetic motor oils and synthetic grease...
motor oil is specifically designed to tolerate a lot of heat for a long time. thats actually a great application for it. i guess id use a higher viscosity so it sticks better.
Now that's a concept!
@@bradhaines3142 Mix synthetic oil,and synthetic grease , you can vary the mixture depending out outside climate and where on the firearm you apply it. Using this method since 1980,s on AR,s, M-1, M1-A.
@@bradhaines3142 SOTAR mix is definitely the best
Excellent testing. Ive always used the Hoppes kit for everything but it seems like it is best for long term storage. I will start trying the break free CLP for everything else.
I use Ballistol to clean and wipe down my PCP Airguns. I like that it won't damage or deteriorate any of the airgun seals or rubber o-rings. As for my powder burners I've always been a Break Free CLP guy.
Thanks for the feedback.
In my experience with break free clp, it's not all that great as a lasting lubricant on firearms but it works great for getting rust off and creeping into spaces. Used it by the gallons to keep guns from rusting and overheating.
Thanks for sharing.
I agree BF CLP to clean followed up with Clenzoil to protect, no one perfect product
I recall that FrogLube used to recommend degreasing and then heating parts before applying for the first time so that the lubricant would fill in the surface better.
Wouldn't be much of a CLP if it needed a degreaser first.
@@brad4010 Says CLP on the jar, bud
I don't recall needing to degrease before applying. It will eat up, or lift your petroleum based products which may have caused issues if you have a lot I guess. The biggest issue is using too much Frog Lube, leaving it on like a grease. I don't know about the newer formula but the original would solidify a bit, just like how it is in the canister making the first few rounds fired a bit unreliable until it warmed up and liquefied.
That works ok for cleaning, but way too much for function. I saw someone use a shaving brush to apply their last coat of oil and started doing that for adding that last swipe for lubrication so I don't have enough to gunk everything up.
“Unfortunately the Extreme Force is Extremely solid right now” LOL. Dead.
I have been a gun show dealer for over forty years, and I have tried many different lubes and cleaners in that time. The two that impressed me the most, and that I personally use the most, are Gibbs synthetic oil and Clenzoil. I use Clenzoil on my samurai swords, because it penetrates, displaces rust, and protects the blades from any rust or corrosion. Since I'm having a tough time finding Gibbs right now, Clenzoil is my go-to oil for anything valuable or important.
Thanks for the feedback.
Great video! I've used Ballistol for years, but after watching this video, I ordered some Clenzoil, and I just used it to clean 6 and lube 6 guns. It seems to be a much better product. Thanks for dropping some science on me!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I've been using Ballistol for years based on recommendation of well-known TH-camr. Will order some Clenzoil and maybe one of the others soon.
Lol me too
gotta get rid of ballistol after this. The smell is terrible too
@@dontquestionmyname5490 Oh my god, Ballistol smells so bad! I just cleaned a dozen gun using Clenzoil, and not only are they clean, but I'm not gasping for breath!
So glad to see you reviewing firearm products. I told by buddy a few months ago about how in depth and thorough your videos are and the only thing in my life he hasn't reviewed yet is firearm related products.
Great video! Love the scientific process. You got a new sub!
Thanks! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Started watching this guy way back with 50k subs testing motor oil and fuel cleaners. Now this guy has millions of subs and is testing gun oil. What a legend. Do not stop what you’re doing my guy!
Thanks!
Great video (yet again). I was surprised at how poorly Hoppe's performed considering its a major player in this arena. This definitely changed my next purchase for CLP. Keep up the GREAT WORK!
Thanks, will do! Thanks for the feedback.
The big thing with Ballistol and mostly why it's still popular, is that it was primarily used for cleaning corrosive powders without having to worry about too much extra cleanup. When it was originally made, corrosive powder/primers where pretty much the only thing there was.
Thanks for the feedback.
Yeah I mostly use it on guns that are manual action and use wood stocks.
Most other shit I've ran clp without issues
Thanks for another excellent video as always... This one was especially interesting to me as I am a firearms collector as well as do target shooting several times a week so I'm cleaning and lubricating guns every few days... Mostly over the years I have used Break Free CLP and Ballistol... Looks like I may want to give the Clenzoil a try.
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
I use spray on frog lube for my firearms. Because it’s not full synthetic it clumps together with age after application. It also loves to lump up carbon fowling inside my slide and inside of my handguns frame. It’s super easy to clean with, but because of the other things I’ve mentioned, I wouldn’t use it as a lubricant. As a side note, it also has a nice minty scent and doesn’t cause migraines. You can definitely get away with using this in enclosed spaces.
Thanks for sharing.
Prezactly! Frog Lube, aka Frog Glue, gums up way too easily! It doesn't mix with any petroleum or carbon well. It will turn to paste when left to sit over time and make your action sticky! It's just snake oil for the unsuspecting!
Try Slip 2000
If you use it on knives, it also is the only that is food safe.
@@1234Robocop Yep. For knives I may prepare food with it's food/medical-grade mineral oil or FrogLube for me. I bought some FrogLube paste just for storing knives. Although since my knives are all stainless, I don't really use it. But even with stainless steel, oiling is still a good idea for long-term storage or for mechanical or moving parts like many folding knife mechanisms.