I had this problem for 3 years and no mechanic could figure this out. Sometimes it would crank longer and bring all three lights on. Other times it would crank lesser time but only the check engine light is present. Weeks later the check engine light will go away. Randomly it would turn on again during a normal drive. The code kept showing p0339 but I already had the crank sensor replaced at the dealership before and it was oem, not aftermarket. I still have this long cranking issue. My sparkplugs were good, my battery was good, my starter was good. Everything else seems to be fine but I could not figure out what was going on. I did some research on this problem. I found out it could be one of the harness wires. I popped open the hood and I did see a huge thread of copper wires just located underneath where the battery was. I saw that it was corroded with some blue stuff. I disconnect the battery then I used a metal brush and cleaned off that strand of copper wire as best as I could. Next I applied di-electric grease. Connect back the battery. I drove the car for weeks and the engine light never returned nor did the long crank happened anymore. I must say, this issue was definitely a tricky one. If you can, replace the whole harness, if not then try what I did and it might fix the issue.
Hey everyone, I found this video today and I read all the comments to see if it can help me out. Here is what I found helpful. Jesse comment was definitely the fix for my case I checked the ignition coils/ I change spark plugs not the problem so the fact that I can’t spend any extra money on this to be solved i just went ahead and relearn crankshaft sensor and everything was fixed. I personally can’t believe but I want to share my experience with everyone
Wow sure sounds a lot better cranking with the new battery! Great diagnosis, Ramon! I like the Pico capture with the CKP and injector pulse on 2 channels. Remember..."N-EVER START" haha :D
Did the battery fix the issue? Mine does the same thing! The only difference is that the ABS light comes on too. When I turn the car off and on again the lights won’t come on till later or the next day. I scan codes and only get ABS codes 13-19 61-1 and 71-33 any ideas where to start? Any help would be really appreciated!!
Ramon, thanks for the follow up and was wondering if you test the battery CCA cold cranking amps and voltage by using ur scope and adding third channel around the cable going to starter to read the starter amps by using amp clamp during cranking off course when it is cold or when is acting i bet you will see that battery is weak as u know those days electronic are very sensible to voltage/ amps draw. always enjoy ur videos cheeeeeers
j georges I did check cranking amp draw with amp clamp and DVOM and peak was 250 amp. I believe main issue here is slow cranking. Especially in cold mornings when oil is thicker and it takes more amps to turn engine over. I really hope new battery will fix this problem. If it doesn’t I will make follow up video and scream for help.😬 Thanks for watching my friend 👍👍
5 months ago is when I replaced battery it stopped then this morning i stopped for gas then it happened again and wouldn’t shift again at around 3k rpm would jerk I pulled over turned car off turned key to on position the visa went off and it was fine
There is a video on new.level auto about the same model year and dtc requiring a pcm update and crank relearned procedured if you are interested. Thanks
David Tellez I don’t know how I missed it. Maybe I didn’t get notification when he posted that video. If this doesn’t fix it software update will be next step. Thank you so much for your help my friend. I really appreciated it. Cheers 👍👍
I’m having the same problem. I keep getting code p0341. I’ve changed the Crank sensor, both cam sensors, vtc actuator and solenoid. Going to clean all the ground connections and change the battery.
After long struggle with this car final fix was starter. Engine was cranking too slow due to wore out starter and flagging code P0341. Hope this will help.
I have this problem with my sons 2010 Honda Accord. Spent the past 5 weeks working with a Honda service dept and my local mechanic. When slow start all the VSA and check engine go on and I get a Cylinder misfire. Sometimes car will barely go 25 MPH. But when I get a smooth quick turnover I can drive 65 all day long! Intermittent problem of the worse kind. We’ve tried everything. We’ve changed the spark plugs, we’ve change the battery, we changed the aftermarket starter to a new Honda starter, now we are going to try to change the fuel filter and check out the the injectors. We already did the crank relearn and there is no PCM update (we are up to date). Timing chain is a possibility too. What a nightmare problem this is. Any ideas?
Not really. Took out yet automatic starter and cleaned the grounds. Replaced coils and plugs. New starter. Even a genuine Honda starter because dealer said that could be it (cheap aftermarket starters can be trouble they said). My mechanic said he’s now started it 40 times without a misfire but still doesn’t trust it. He’s had it two months and it’s been to dealer twice in that time to check for software updates and to get the genuine Honda starter. Luckily my son doesn’t need the car right now due to His classes being online. Do you have any ideas?
Try the Yaw Rate Sensor. My mechanic replaced it and it fixed problem for about 3 months. Just recently had the visa light pop up again. I think it might be the loose ground
I’m having the same problem at the moment. I changed the battery, spark plugs, engine coils, excuator and timing chain but, yet the vsa and engine light still stay on. On top of that the engine light flashes on and off. I changed crankshaft sensor 3 times as well. If anyone could help me out I’ll really appreciate it. I keep putting so much money into fixing this car and it keeps giving me so much problems
@EXTREME CHALLENGES the relearn reprograms the computer. After changing the crankshaft sensor the computer still remembers the bad info. There are videos on line showing how until you do a relearn you will have the same issue. Let me look for it. In my case it was the aftermarket starter but I did a relearn every couple of days and it would be drivable , then I would just do a relearn again and again till y starter came in.
I had this problem for 3 years and no mechanic could figure this out. Sometimes it would crank longer and bring all three lights on. Other times it would crank lesser time but only the check engine light is present. Weeks later the check engine light will go away. Randomly it would turn on again during a normal drive. The code kept showing p0339 but I already had the crank sensor replaced at the dealership before and it was oem, not aftermarket. I still have this long cranking issue. My sparkplugs were good, my battery was good, my starter was good. Everything else seems to be fine but I could not figure out what was going on. I did some research on this problem. I found out it could be one of the harness wires. I popped open the hood and I did see a huge thread of copper wires just located underneath where the battery was. I saw that it was corroded with some blue stuff. I disconnect the battery then I used a metal brush and cleaned off that strand of copper wire as best as I could. Next I applied di-electric grease. Connect back the battery. I drove the car for weeks and the engine light never returned nor did the long crank happened anymore. I must say, this issue was definitely a tricky one. If you can, replace the whole harness, if not then try what I did and it might fix the issue.
Has it come back on
@@sikes562 Nope
@@endl3sdrmzz nice I know that is a good feeling thank you for replying
@@sikes562 My car passed inspection too and it was due this month. I'm so relieved lol
Thank you for sharing! I have same problem.
For everyone who wants to save time:
The whole video is “changing a new battery” . Cheers!
Did replacing that battery actually solve the problem? Or did he eventually bring the car back and you found something new.
Clever fix. Well done not getting dummied by the "Red Herring" DTC's only confusing the issue.
Hey everyone, I found this video today and I read all the comments to see if it can help me out. Here is what I found helpful. Jesse comment was definitely the fix for my case I checked the ignition coils/ I change spark plugs not the problem so the fact that I can’t spend any extra money on this to be solved i just went ahead and relearn crankshaft sensor and everything was fixed. I personally can’t believe but I want to share my experience with everyone
How did you do the relearn crankshaft sensor
@@geevee3922 I used a scanner , it should have a option for Honda relearn sensor. Look for advanced scanner. It should have it.
Wow sure sounds a lot better cranking with the new battery! Great diagnosis, Ramon! I like the Pico capture with the CKP and injector pulse on 2 channels. Remember..."N-EVER START" haha :D
Lol you called that in the last one if I wasn't mistaken
(Walmart)
Kaysauto52 repair yes he did LOL. I really hope this will fix my problem. If it doesn’t I will scream for help.😬😬👍
Yes I think it will be good for a long time now :)
Did the battery fix the issue? Mine does the same thing! The only difference is that the ABS light comes on too. When I turn the car off and on again the lights won’t come on till later or the next day. I scan codes and only get ABS codes 13-19 61-1 and 71-33 any ideas where to start? Any help would be really appreciated!!
Did you fix it?
your batt should be 12.6 especially while repairing,,,or weak alt or loose connection in starting circuit
then you can work on the next problem,,,you need power so that comes 1st
Ramon, thanks for the follow up and was wondering if you test the battery CCA cold cranking amps and voltage by using ur scope and adding third channel around the cable going to starter to read the starter amps by using amp clamp during cranking off course when it is cold or when is acting i bet you will see that battery is weak as u know those days electronic are very sensible to voltage/ amps draw. always enjoy ur videos cheeeeeers
+1 I was wondering how the system voltage looked like during cranking on the scope and if it would reveal the issue.
j georges I did check cranking amp draw with amp clamp and DVOM and peak was 250 amp. I believe main issue here is slow cranking. Especially in cold mornings when oil is thicker and it takes more amps to turn engine over. I really hope new battery will fix this problem. If it doesn’t I will make follow up video and scream for help.😬 Thanks for watching my friend 👍👍
Great video!! Thank you so much
5 months ago is when I replaced battery it stopped then this morning i stopped for gas then it happened again and wouldn’t shift again at around 3k rpm would jerk I pulled over turned car off turned key to on position the visa went off and it was fine
did it came back ?
There is a video on new.level auto about the same model year and dtc requiring a pcm update and crank relearned procedured if you are interested. Thanks
David Tellez I don’t know how I missed it. Maybe I didn’t get notification when he posted that video. If this doesn’t fix it software update will be next step. Thank you so much for your help my friend. I really appreciated it. Cheers 👍👍
My mechanic replace the yaw rate sensor. I've been driving the car again with no issues until now
My vsa abs and triangle is on sometimes goes and come back on dash help cant find problem no codes on obd 2
You need scanner that does manufacture codes
Hi sir i have same car
I switched out the battery, hopefully it works in the morning🤞🏻.
Did it work
I’m having the same problem. I keep getting code p0341. I’ve changed the Crank sensor, both cam sensors, vtc actuator and solenoid. Going to clean all the ground connections and change the battery.
After long struggle with this car final fix was starter. Engine was cranking too slow due to wore out starter and flagging code P0341. Hope this will help.
@@kyhomegarage3430 thanks for the follow up. Did you change out the starter with a OEM or aftermarket?
I’m currently dealing with the same problem. Did everything you did and still have the same problem
I have this problem with my sons 2010 Honda Accord. Spent the past 5 weeks working with a Honda service dept and my local mechanic. When slow start all the VSA and check engine go on and I get a Cylinder misfire. Sometimes car will barely go 25 MPH. But when I get a smooth quick turnover I can drive 65 all day long! Intermittent problem of the worse kind. We’ve tried everything. We’ve changed the spark plugs, we’ve change the battery, we changed the aftermarket starter to a new Honda starter, now we are going to try to change the fuel filter and check out the the injectors. We already did the crank relearn and there is no PCM update (we are up to date). Timing chain is a possibility too. What a nightmare problem this is. Any ideas?
Jesse Ashdown did you find a solution?
Not really. Took out yet automatic starter and cleaned the grounds. Replaced coils and plugs. New starter. Even a genuine Honda starter because dealer said that could be it (cheap aftermarket starters can be trouble they said). My mechanic said he’s now started it 40 times without a misfire but still doesn’t trust it. He’s had it two months and it’s been to dealer twice in that time to check for software updates and to get the genuine Honda starter. Luckily my son doesn’t need the car right now due to His classes being online. Do you have any ideas?
Try the Yaw Rate Sensor. My mechanic replaced it and it fixed problem for about 3 months. Just recently had the visa light pop up again. I think it might be the loose ground
Jose V Thank you yes my mechanic cleaned all the grounds and it finally works! Basically it was a bad connection somewhere. Tricky problem.
@@Jesman73 has the problem been fixed permanently after this ground cleaning
I’m having the same problem at the moment. I changed the battery, spark plugs, engine coils, excuator and timing chain but, yet the vsa and engine light still stay on. On top of that the engine light flashes on and off. I changed crankshaft sensor 3 times as well. If anyone could help me out I’ll really appreciate it. I keep putting so much money into fixing this car and it keeps giving me so much problems
Did you change the starter lately with a aftermarket?
@EXTREME CHALLENGES can either of you do a crankshaft relearn?
Can you do a crankshaft relearn?
@EXTREME CHALLENGES the relearn reprograms the computer. After changing the crankshaft sensor the computer still remembers the bad info. There are videos on line showing how until you do a relearn you will have the same issue. Let me look for it. In my case it was the aftermarket starter but I did a relearn every couple of days and it would be drivable , then I would just do a relearn again and again till y starter came in.
1st BOOM
haha Leon is unstoppable!
bodgit and leggit garage he never sleeps. He is awesome. I really appreciate his attitude. It’s always pleasure to watch his videos 😁😁
Changed my battery fixed the issue few months later it appeared again once
did you get it fixed
Thank you Ramon. Good job. I appreciate your videos.
Billy Yoder Thank you my friend. Cheers 👍👍👍