After watching this, and a bunch of other ones on TH-cam, I ran a new Pex 'home run' hot water line to solve a flow problem with a 50+ year old corroded galvanized pipe - by completely replacing it. I used the 'cinch' clamp connections, not shown here, since it was a one off repair, first experiment kinda project. Most importantly, the tool and clamps were readily available on the shelf at my local hardware store. Not to mention that they were relatively inexpensive. Worked great! Someday the whole house will need to be re-piped. When I do that job I will most likely invest in the 'pro' tools and use Wirsbo materials and tools. My research seems to indicate Wirsbo (Now calle Uponor) is the best stuff- Wirsbo is the Swedish inventor developers of the whole Pex Plumbing system. Pex will probably make most traditional plumbers, who are used to steel and copper, want to barf - but it really works! "Wirsbo was founded in 1620 forging steel and weapons for the King of Sweden, according to the company's Web site. Wirsbo changed its name to Uponor in 2006 but still sells products under the former name. Uponor, Inc. is headquartered in Apple Valley, Minn."
I’ve built custom homes since 1980 and we always used copper in those days. Around 1990 my supplier introduced me to PEX. He filled a PEX pipe with water and an end cap on either side and froze it. He took it out of the freezer and handed it to me so I could inspect it. It had a big bulge in the middle with no splits. He took it and placed it into a Microwave and turned it on. I stood back away from the Microwave and watched the PEX pipe reduce in size to it’s original size. He opened the Microwave and took it out using a insulted mitt. You could hear the water bubbling. I was sold on the PEX pipe and used it exclusively after that. I used the same system shown here with the expansion tool. Mine was run by a compressed air tool. If you are using it in cold weather, like in a basement before you have heat, you may get leaks around the end piece. I found if you take a heat gun and apply heat to the end piece it will shrink and stop leaking! Best of luck.
this is a really good introduction. i particularly liked the demonstration of how to fix a mistake by cutting off the ring, removing a section of tubing and then repeating the expand/attach sequence. shannon described how to do it earlier in the video but it was even better to see him demonstrate the process. i also liked demonstration of expansion using a manual expansion tool and use of the expansion power tool. another good feature of pex-a expansion rings is that the pex-a cinches down on the fitting but still allows rotation of the fitting. this means that you can attach pex-a with compression fitting to a water heater using a pex to threaded conversion fitting and you can remove the fitting without having to cut the pex-a tubing (there is resistance to the rotation, but you can rotate the fitting).
If you are looking at" Aqua Pex pipe then yes. Aqua pex is made by Uponor and is a different pipe than say Pex made by Bow. Aquapex uses the expandable shrink rings as its joining pieces where as Pex by Bow uses the copper crimp rings. The word PEX is a common word used to describe all of these types of cross-linked polyethylene tubing products.
Thanks Shannon, excellent video tutorial. I've seen several videos on this type of installation and none of them explained the rotation method for the manual expander. Well done, as with all your videos!
Great vid - one of the best PEX tutorials so far. Thanks for showing how the coupling works and the expander tools. A few more demos of different fittings is all I need now. Cheers!
excellent video and very thorough. I love the fact that you arent rushing through it like other home improvement videos i have watched on youtube. This video really helped me today when i installed my new faucet and sink. Thanks again
Hi thanks for your indepth tutorial on Wirsbro Aquaplex pipe. It help me a great deal in understanding on how to install those pipes. I will like to share my fix with you. I had a leak right at the sleeve. It was drip drip leak. After watching your video, I went and bought a HOSE CLAMP (inch and a Half diameter). I install that over the sleeve and tighten it snugly and the PROBLEM was solved. I hope this help some viewers with those costly repairs. And thanks for you help. I appreciate it.
The fittings/manifolds are made out of engineered plastic.....I have used the Aqua/Pro-Pex pipes and fittings, plumbing a bathroom, using the Milwaukee Battery expander tool and loved using the entire system!.....no leaks, fast, no flames, no solvents, etc....got my supplies thru Pex Supply.com.....Great Video!
Very cool! I've done PEX for 5 years now, with the brass rings, never even knew this existed, looks a lot more easy and faster then the brass rings. Thanks for demonstrating and explaining this!
Great video! I noticed that you had trouble with putting the last blue line. At my work place, when we expand the rings we usually let the m12 expansion tool do 3 or more revolutions and then hook up it up to the fitting.
LMAO!! YEAH IM GLAD YOU CLEARED THAT UP BECAUSE I WAS JUST READY TO STICK IT ON MY NIPPLE AND IT WOULD'VE BEEN A PAINFUL MESS IF IT TIGHTENED UP. I WOULD'VE DEFINITELY HAD A "NURPLE"😂
hey shannon, its good you emphasized rotating the tool as you are expanding. if you don't, you make a leak groove in the pex. i had a leak at a fitting today, and it was because as i rotated the tool, the 1/2 inch head stayed in the same place (it came loose as i turned the tool), and, of course it leaked.
You may try cycling the expander tool 5 or 6 times. The pipe will slip on very easily and give you a few more seconds to get it there! Nice video work, thank you.
You just cleared up a few questions I had with the plastic lines. Thank you Shannon, your videos are so well done and you always touch on every detail of the task at hand. Many thanks my friend......
Interesting with good info. If you were doing my house I would want ball valves for each line coming off the manifold. That way if I had a leak I would not need to shut off water for the whole house. I had my plumber to install some ball valves on some water line. He said I was the first to ever request something like that. It paid off when I remodeled my bathroom.
thanks shannon. when you use the electric expander there is a minimum number of pulses - 1/2 inch tubes need 5 - 7 pulses. i don't know why, but thats the method.
Nice video, great walk through, I appreciate you sharing your experience working with this system. Best part, checking out the battery operated expander!
Great video, thanks. In my area (western Tennessee) the copper piping that was used in the 1990s is notorious for developing pinhole leaks. Not sure if the grade of copper that was used was too thin or if chemicals in the water are breaking it down over time, or both. Several of my neighbors have given up after fixing 2-3 pinhole leaks and had the entire house redone with Wirsbo PEX-a. I know there is some natural skepticism with this product, but in my area it is far more reliable than copper. Also the added benefit of stopping copper thieves in their tracks, great flexibility, fewer fittings, lower cost, etc.
@Stuart Brazile We had a similar problem with copper here in Southern California, although the water chemistry is probably different. A bunch of new homes in Orange County developed pinholes and the homeowners sued the water district.
this system was the first on the scene,it is rarely used in new houses now,they use the crimp ring type,the expansion tool was quite pricey.Wirsbo is a type A tubing,it is the most flexible so you can make tighter bends,in subdivisions they use type B which is less flexible. Nice video
It's not really any more expensive using the EP fittings and the rings are dirt cheap. the tubing is slight more expensive. Just the tool is pricey. And the dumb valves and stops are overpriced. But I've seen too many corroded copper crimp rings under peoples sinks to ever think the slight price difference would be worth it.
It is a great product,I have been using it for about 3 yrs now with great success. I could not tell you if there are any cases of it breaking down and leaching.
Just a thought, you could also have mounted a drop-ear elbow to 2x4 mounted nailed on end between studs for pipes that exits the walls. This enables me to screw in a rigid CPVC or chrome plated brass nipple and a FPT 1/4-turn shut-off on the ends. You can use the chrome pipe bezels as well so you don't need to mud around them making them a little easier to replace if necessary. You can also do a drop-ear tee instead and add a water hammer arrestor in the wall there if you want to, but If a water distribution system is designed for a maximum flow rate of 8 ft./sec., you will never need a water hammer arrestor for CPVC or PEX.
Thank you for the video. Those plastic connectors appear to be better than the metal crimp connectors. I've only used copper pipes, but that system sure is a lot less work than sweating copper.
thanks for the video you explained it better than any other video i watched even showed us how to take the ring off if we need too, which i was wondering how to do
This is soo much easier to run in that type of condition. I'm usually re-piping a home and it is a pain. First two years we only had the manual expander but now we only use the battery operated ones.
Holy shit, it's like they made plumbing the easiest thing in the world now. Connect a bunch of tubes, hell yea. Flipping this house of mine is going to be way easier than expected.
gtguy181 lol everyone says that and then they end up calling a real plumber. Sure running pex is easy. You still have to size it correctly which I doubt you know how to. Not trying to be rude but it's true.
Actually I have a construction education, so I kinda do. Starting with the main line and smaller lines follow. My problem is putting the education to practical use. Thats why I thought this would solve that dilemma. Its cool though, hopefully inexperience people doing this type of work look more in depth like you said.
I'm about to re plumb my house with aquapex and I bought the Milwaukee expander M12. One thing I noticed in most videos and references is that they expand the tool five times for 1/2 inch and 9 times for 3/4 inch. It might be picky, but the extra expansion might have avoided your difficulty in getting some of the fittings on all the way. Also, the design of the pex a with an expansion tool allows you to use fittings such as elbows, etc without adversely affecting the flow in the pipe, since the id of the elbows is the same as the id of the pipe. Thanks for the video.
Jim Place Well, not really. The ID of the fitting is obviously smaller than the ID of the pipe since the fitting is inserted INSIDE of the pipe. Wherever possible bend supports should be used instead of 90s for better flow and fewer total connections. Additionally, the ID of all PEX pipe, therefore the cross sectional area, is less than that of its copper counterpart. Other than some factual misinformation this is a fine video for the novice would be plumber.
Jim, you are are correct, I checked the manual that came with my Dewalt DCE40-00 and made I made similar observation while watching the video. Instead of allowing a few extra cycles of the tool, one expansion after it hit the shoulder and he removed the tool. A few extra cycles with the tool and that would eliminated the struggle with the fittings.
good video. I have the expanding tool but prefer the SS rings....I have a wack of that pipe left over and it is ok to use standard pex rings on it as well.
Shannon, your killing me man. You have the beautiful install of uponor going on & you use a push fitting. I take your word as gospel. You're the best . But don't use pushfittingd when you can get the same ball valve in uponor or pex A , whichever you want to call it
SHANNON, I THINK YOU ARE GENIUS, LOVE YOUR VIDEOS, I HAVE A QUESTION, WILL YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON WHEN YOU HOOK THIS SYSTEM TO KITCHEN SINK, AND A MAKE A LIST OF ALL THOSE PARTS YOU ARE USING, --- ETC ETC THANK YOU
Great video. I'm transitioning from commercial to residential, and I need to be up to speed or at least be familiar with this method before going out on the job.
Good stuff man. Thank you. I have the basic idea of how this works now and need to draw up a plan for my house. Any pointers on how to go about that would be greatly appreciated.
one word of caution that i would offer when it comes to the use of pex for remodels: you need to be very careful about removing copper tubing in your plumbing system. if your house was build with copper tubing, that tubing may be used as a part of the electrode grounding system for your house. pex is non-conductive and can't be used in an electrode grounding system. if you remove the wrong copper tubing, a plumbing inspector might not spot the problem since this could create an electrical code violation.
I think when you are removing the pex pipe that has been expanded onto a fitting, you should probably be able to heat it up and then pull it off I'd assume
you spoke of a 1/8th inch gap on the cold water side of the sink connection... visually, it appeared the same on the hot water manifold side as well.. the cold water side of the manifold connection looked visually ok... just sayin how it appeared...
Shannon, thanks for the best home improvement videos! May I ask if you have any videos to introduce and help us to understand the basic house plumbing system? I would like to divide my bathroom to two, and put plumbing for another set of toliet, sink and bath. thanks!
Hi Shannon,,,great video here on the Pex,,,I hear yer "Inns and yer Oautts" yer must be from Canada I reckon.? Please keep up the good work and God Bless. DD in L.A.
You can expand the rings to make then go on easy. Also if you leave your tool expanded holding the pipe expanded you will find you have more time and will be less likely to have a joint not seat.
Great Video, very informative .. I would suggest you check local codes as the waste line looking to the left seems to far from the vent Normally a vent has to be with in 2 feet of the trap weir and the fixture within 2 feet of the trap inlet
I have been a plumber for 39 years and repiped many houses but I never put a shark bite ball valve in where this guy did. If the seals ever blow, and they have been known to do so you would be in a mess. Just sweat a brass valve with male Pex fittings out of each end and Pex them together instead of that slip in the valve. All fittings should be pex together for a safer plumbing system.
HouseImprovements What I forgot to say was that Aquapex and Shark Bite haven't been around for 39 years, they came around in about 1990 ish . That was when I was introduced to them. Very sharp people who invented them and the gas stainless of Wardflex, track pipe , can't remember the name of the other one. But I have seen some fail. I asked a friend of mine who was a plumber and started down In LA , he has forgot more than most know , I said to him well with this shark bite while doing a re pipe why not just hook it all up with that sharkbite. He told me not a good idea. It was intended for fixes in walls and places you can't sweat copper or get into easily. Like mobile homes and repair situations. Don't get me wrong its a great product and I use it when I need to but in a re pipe I usually sweat pex fittings and go with the pex rings and have never had to come back unless some dumb shit ran a nail through the wall hanging a picture or something lol. It has made the plumbing industry easy to work with but a lot of homeowners that think they can plumb will go out and buy a roll of this and try to re pipe their house. Bad thing is they do not know how to size pipe for the correct volume and units the house requires. So that is where they fail. Out here in California if a inspector catches you using it he will ask you for your card when you took the class. If you don't have it he will tell you to rip it out and run copper lol. That is if you get busted by an inspector.
Ya push fits are great in tight areas where you are to scared to light the torch that is for sure. I have seen one failure in about 10 yrs and that was an bad O ring cause it leaked right from the start.
HouseImprovements I happen to see more than that guess I have done a lot of plumbing over the years. More than I like to be honest with you but I didn't mind the pay check from the customer's lol. They are good for tight places that you don't want to light up a torch. And it's so fast too. You don't have to wait a half hr to wait for the pex ring to shrink all the way down. Its like slip it in and turn on the water.
I'm a master plumber and I use stainless steel crimp sleeves. never had a leak. I had the worsbo rep come out and we raced. I did 20 crimp sleeves to his 7. way faster using the stainless crimp sleeves. plus it's 10 cents more a foot for the worsbo pex. and I do 1800 feet average on a house using pex. plus they don't have red or blue or white pex it's all clear?
as you explained be careful with knife when you cut ring, but for the pipe use hot air to avoid damaging ribs on union. Make a little transparent then remove pipe. Of cause work must be performed in gloves.
When you used the expansion tool to stretch the 1/2” pex A tubing, couldn’t you have slide it over the copper 1/2” pipe without that Cupler that was on it?
I think that you need to install 1/2" PEX pipe with 1/2" threaded 90 deg elbow with ears (to put screws on just like shower fitting at 6 ft high) & that you can screw on 2x4 (in between 2 studs) & then use 3"long x 1/2"dia brass nipple. This will make your fitting strong. Use for toilet cold water & Hot & Cold for Kitchen sink or bath vanity
I'm a kitchen and bath remodeler. This is how I do it too. I use a drop ear mounted to a stud and then a male adapter and cpvc as the stub out. It's an easy rough in while you're building and if it should ever get broken, it's an easy fix. Shower fitting at 6 ft high? Are you building for midgets?
I’m just curious why you would use Shark Bite valves instead of the Uponor valves. Uponor/Wirsboro has such a great system including PEX rated for heating systems.
I think 4 stretches .... is not enough and that's why you had an issue with that cold blue fitting not slipping on easily. I was taught 9 times.... 9, I've never had to push it down hard. Slips right over brass fitting.
For me you don't have enough shut off valves you got one for the cold water that I can see. And me I like to have some on other side in case you do get a leak.
I just answered my own question. Watching the battery operated tool, it doesn't expand the same amount on every cycle like the full stroke of the manual tool. Battery strength may be an issue.
i keep stickin it on my nipple but i cant get a good seal. haha. great video man. you explain stuff so us common folk can understand and learn something
After watching this, and a bunch of other ones on TH-cam, I ran a new Pex 'home run' hot water line to solve a flow problem with a 50+ year old corroded galvanized pipe - by completely replacing it. I used the 'cinch' clamp connections, not shown here, since it was a one off repair, first experiment kinda project. Most importantly, the tool and clamps were readily available on the shelf at my local hardware store. Not to mention that they were relatively inexpensive. Worked great! Someday the whole house will need to be re-piped. When I do that job I will most likely invest in the 'pro' tools and use Wirsbo materials and tools. My research seems to indicate Wirsbo (Now calle Uponor) is the best stuff- Wirsbo is the Swedish inventor developers of the whole Pex Plumbing system. Pex will probably make most traditional plumbers, who are used to steel and copper, want to barf - but it really works!
"Wirsbo was founded in 1620 forging steel and weapons for the King of
Sweden, according to the company's Web site. Wirsbo changed its name to
Uponor in 2006 but still sells products under the former name. Uponor,
Inc. is headquartered in Apple Valley, Minn."
I’ve built custom homes since 1980 and we always used copper in those days. Around 1990 my supplier introduced me to PEX. He filled a PEX pipe with water and an end cap on either side and froze it. He took it out of the freezer and handed it to me so I could inspect it. It had a big bulge in the middle with no splits. He took it and placed it into a Microwave and turned it on. I stood back away from the Microwave and watched the PEX pipe reduce in size to it’s original size. He opened the Microwave and took it out using a insulted mitt. You could hear the water bubbling. I was sold on the PEX pipe and used it exclusively after that. I used the same system shown here with the expansion tool. Mine was run by a compressed air tool. If you are using it in cold weather, like in a basement before you have heat, you may get leaks around the end piece. I found if you take a heat gun and apply heat to the end piece it will shrink and stop leaking! Best of luck.
this is a really good introduction. i particularly liked the demonstration of how to fix a mistake by cutting off the ring, removing a section of tubing and then repeating the expand/attach sequence. shannon described how to do it earlier in the video but it was even better to see him demonstrate the process. i also liked demonstration of expansion using a manual expansion tool and use of the expansion power tool.
another good feature of pex-a expansion rings is that the pex-a cinches down on the fitting but still allows rotation of the fitting. this means that you can attach pex-a with compression fitting to a water heater using a pex to threaded conversion fitting and you can remove the fitting without having to cut the pex-a tubing (there is resistance to the rotation, but you can rotate the fitting).
If you are looking at" Aqua Pex pipe then yes. Aqua pex is made by Uponor and is a different pipe than say Pex made by Bow. Aquapex uses the expandable shrink rings as its joining pieces where as Pex by Bow uses the copper crimp rings. The word PEX is a common word used to describe all of these types of cross-linked polyethylene tubing products.
Thanks Shannon, excellent video tutorial. I've seen several videos on this type of installation and none of them explained the rotation method for the manual expander. Well done, as with all your videos!
Shannon, thanks for your videos, they're the best on the web, after watching them I feel like there's no job to big.
You're welcome, Robert.
Great vid - one of the best PEX tutorials so far. Thanks for showing how the coupling works and the expander tools. A few more demos of different fittings is all I need now. Cheers!
excellent video and very thorough. I love the fact that you arent rushing through it like other home improvement videos i have watched on youtube. This video really helped me today when i installed my new faucet and sink. Thanks again
Been thinking about redoing the plumbing in my 1930s home. After watching this I'm definitely doing it.
Hi thanks for your indepth tutorial on Wirsbro Aquaplex pipe. It help me a great deal in understanding on how to install those pipes. I will like to share my fix with you. I had a leak right at the sleeve. It was drip drip leak. After watching your video, I went and bought a HOSE CLAMP (inch and a Half diameter). I install that over the sleeve and tighten it snugly and the PROBLEM was solved. I hope this help some viewers with those costly repairs. And thanks for you help. I appreciate it.
The fittings/manifolds are made out of engineered plastic.....I have used the Aqua/Pro-Pex pipes and fittings, plumbing a bathroom, using the Milwaukee Battery expander tool and loved using the entire system!.....no leaks, fast, no flames, no solvents, etc....got my supplies thru Pex Supply.com.....Great Video!
Shannon, you make very good, clear and easy to understand videos. Thanks!
Very cool! I've done PEX for 5 years now, with the brass rings, never even knew this existed, looks a lot more easy and faster then the brass rings. Thanks for demonstrating and explaining this!
Andrew Lank not as fast as crimp rings, but the flow rates are WAY better with wirsbo fittings. A 1/2 wirsbo is almost as big as a normal 3/4 pex tee
Great video!
I noticed that you had trouble with putting the last blue line.
At my work place, when we expand the rings we usually let the m12 expansion tool do 3 or more revolutions and then hook up it up to the fitting.
LMAO!! YEAH IM GLAD YOU CLEARED THAT UP BECAUSE I WAS JUST READY TO STICK IT ON MY NIPPLE AND IT WOULD'VE BEEN A PAINFUL MESS IF IT TIGHTENED UP. I WOULD'VE DEFINITELY HAD A "NURPLE"😂
Thank you for the video. Planning on going all pex as soon as the water line goes inside. Looking at all kinds of videos before I start. 👍
hey shannon, its good you emphasized rotating the tool as you are expanding. if you don't, you make a leak groove in the pex. i had a leak at a fitting today, and it was because as i rotated the tool, the 1/2 inch head stayed in the same place (it came loose as i turned the tool), and, of course it leaked.
You may try cycling the expander tool 5 or 6 times. The pipe will slip on very easily and give you a few more seconds to get it there! Nice video work, thank you.
You just cleared up a few questions I had with the plastic lines. Thank you Shannon, your videos are so well done and you always touch on every detail of the task at hand. Many thanks my friend......
Nice, clear and easy, and in layman's terms
Interesting with good info. If you were doing my house I would want ball valves for each line coming off the manifold. That way if I had a leak I would not need to shut off water for the whole house. I had my plumber to install some ball valves on some water line. He said I was the first to ever request something like that. It paid off when I remodeled my bathroom.
Yes I see that all the time. This particular owner did not want the cost of all the extra valves.
thanks shannon. when you use the electric expander there is a minimum number of pulses - 1/2 inch tubes need 5 - 7 pulses. i don't know why, but thats the method.
Great video for teaching a new counter sales man at a plumbing supplier.
Nice video, great walk through, I appreciate you sharing your experience working with this system. Best part, checking out the battery operated expander!
In case you are a newb like me ... This is now called Uponor.
Yes you are correct.
Great video, thanks. In my area (western Tennessee) the copper piping that was used in the 1990s is notorious for developing pinhole leaks. Not sure if the grade of copper that was used was too thin or if chemicals in the water are breaking it down over time, or both. Several of my neighbors have given up after fixing 2-3 pinhole leaks and had the entire house redone with Wirsbo PEX-a. I know there is some natural skepticism with this product, but in my area it is far more reliable than copper. Also the added benefit of stopping copper thieves in their tracks, great flexibility, fewer fittings, lower cost, etc.
Called zincification where the zinc in the copper breaks down to ions and leaves the pipe porous enough to leak.
+dekonfrost7 Called Deziniification BUT it can also be the velocity causes erosion or poor workmanship during the installation
@Stuart Brazile We had a similar problem with copper here in Southern California, although the water chemistry is probably different. A bunch of new homes in Orange County developed pinholes and the homeowners sued the water district.
You have some good stuff here learning more and more each time I watch these videos next time I need it I'll have some idea of what to do thanks
This is a very good demonstration, thanks Shannon and Company.
this system was the first on the scene,it is rarely used in new houses now,they use the crimp ring type,the expansion tool was quite pricey.Wirsbo is a type A tubing,it is the most flexible so you can make tighter bends,in subdivisions they use type B which is less flexible. Nice video
Ya this system is more pricey but really nice to work with, I find the metal crimp ring system gets messy after a period of time.
It's not really any more expensive using the EP fittings and the rings are dirt cheap. the tubing is slight more expensive. Just the tool is pricey. And the dumb valves and stops are overpriced. But I've seen too many corroded copper crimp rings under peoples sinks to ever think the slight price difference would be worth it.
Great video as always guys. Thanks to upload this video to show us How To Cut & Install Wirsbo Aquapex Pex Water Tubing
It is a great product,I have been using it for about 3 yrs now with great success. I could not tell you if there are any cases of it breaking down and leaching.
Thanks for the thorough explanation and demonstration.
My pleasure!
Just a thought, you could also have mounted a drop-ear elbow to 2x4 mounted nailed on end between studs for pipes that exits the walls. This enables me to screw in a rigid CPVC or chrome plated brass nipple and a FPT 1/4-turn shut-off on the ends. You can use the chrome pipe bezels as well so you don't need to mud around them making them a little easier to replace if necessary. You can also do a drop-ear tee instead and add a water hammer arrestor in the wall there if you want to, but If a water distribution system is designed for a maximum flow rate of 8 ft./sec., you will never need a water hammer arrestor for CPVC or PEX.
I use Wirsbo in my new Remodels in which inspection is required. 👍👍 Great product.
Thank you for the video. Those plastic connectors appear to be better than the metal crimp connectors. I've only used copper pipes, but that system sure is a lot less work than sweating copper.
wow . u just saved me a lot of work
thanks for uploading
thanks for the video
you explained it better than any other video i watched
even showed us how to take the ring off if we need too, which i was wondering how to do
Glad to help, be sure to subscribe for more, Gary.
This is soo much easier to run in that type of condition. I'm usually re-piping a home and it is a pain. First two years we only had the manual expander but now we only use the battery operated ones.
Holy shit, it's like they made plumbing the easiest thing in the world now. Connect a bunch of tubes, hell yea. Flipping this house of mine is going to be way easier than expected.
good luck
gtguy181 lol everyone says that and then they end up calling a real plumber. Sure running pex is easy. You still have to size it correctly which I doubt you know how to. Not trying to be rude but it's true.
Actually I have a construction education, so I kinda do. Starting with the main line and smaller lines follow. My problem is putting the education to practical use. Thats why I thought this would solve that dilemma. Its cool though, hopefully inexperience people doing this type of work look more in depth like you said.
wow... you're going to flip your house?....
can i watch????...lol
There are many online calculators to help figure out pipe size requirements. Here is one for Uponor PEX: www.uponorpro.com/calculator/
I'm about to re plumb my house with aquapex and I bought the Milwaukee expander M12. One thing I noticed in most videos and references is that they expand the tool five times for 1/2 inch and 9 times for 3/4 inch. It might be picky, but the extra expansion might have avoided your difficulty in getting some of the fittings on all the way. Also, the design of the pex a with an expansion tool allows you to use fittings such as elbows, etc without adversely affecting the flow in the pipe, since the id of the elbows is the same as the id of the pipe. Thanks for the video.
Jim Place
Well, not really. The ID of the fitting is obviously smaller than the ID of the pipe since the fitting is inserted INSIDE of the pipe. Wherever possible bend supports should be used instead of 90s for better flow and fewer total connections. Additionally, the ID of all PEX pipe, therefore the cross sectional area, is less than that of its copper counterpart. Other than some factual misinformation this is a fine video for the novice would be plumber.
Jim Place n
Jim, you are are correct, I checked the manual that came with my Dewalt DCE40-00 and made I made similar observation while watching the video. Instead of allowing a few extra cycles of the tool, one expansion after it hit the shoulder and he removed the tool. A few extra cycles with the tool and that would eliminated the struggle with the fittings.
That was the m12 Propex expander tool from Milwaukee #2432-22
good video. I have the expanding tool but prefer the SS rings....I have a wack of that pipe left over and it is ok to use standard pex rings on it as well.
FYI, Shaun, the corner dealies, are called, "bend-supports"
Shannon, your killing me man. You have the beautiful install of uponor going on & you use a push fitting. I take your word as gospel. You're the best . But don't use pushfittingd when you can get the same ball valve in uponor or pex A , whichever you want to call it
They are not readily available here.
Thank you Shannon, all of you videos are so helpful.
You are welcome
I'll just be borrowing that "old fashion" tool for a few days to finish my project. Can't believe how expensive those things are.
Most helpful and detailed video I've seen
SHANNON, I THINK YOU ARE GENIUS, LOVE YOUR VIDEOS, I HAVE A QUESTION, WILL YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON WHEN YOU HOOK THIS SYSTEM TO KITCHEN SINK, AND A MAKE A LIST OF ALL THOSE PARTS YOU ARE USING, --- ETC ETC THANK YOU
Great video. I'm transitioning from commercial to residential, and I need to be up to speed or at least be familiar with this method before going out on the job.
+Mark Ballard Good luck
I'm still a copper guy. After doing this work for 45 years I'm not going to change....
You can retire along with copper pipe, torch, fittings, cutter and flux. I'll get 45 years of work done in 10 years.
Thank you! An excellent video. Your demonstration was very good and I have learned a lot.
Glad you were able to learn something from it
HouseImprovements
Good stuff man. Thank you. I have the basic idea of how this works now and need to draw up a plan for my house. Any pointers on how to go about that would be greatly appreciated.
Always enjoy your videos. Learn a lot.
Great instructional video
Easy to understand.......thank you
one word of caution that i would offer when it comes to the use of pex for remodels: you need to be very careful about removing copper tubing in your plumbing system. if your house was build with copper tubing, that tubing may be used as a part of the electrode grounding system for your house. pex is non-conductive and can't be used in an electrode grounding system. if you remove the wrong copper tubing, a plumbing inspector might not spot the problem since this could create an electrical code violation.
very true.
Very useful, clear, and concise....
Glad to hear you liked what we have here
Love your videos my friend, great Sask knowledge.
my experience is you have to expand the tube and ring 5-6 times with the battery operated device manual only four times
thanks Shandon i use your videos to do most of my stuff including installing Windows I appreciate it.
don
I think when you are removing the pex pipe that has been expanded onto a fitting, you should probably be able to heat it up and then pull it off I'd assume
you spoke of a 1/8th inch gap on the cold water side of the sink connection... visually, it appeared the same on the hot water manifold side as well.. the cold water side of the manifold connection looked visually ok... just sayin how it appeared...
Shannon, thanks for the best home improvement videos! May I ask if you have any videos to introduce and help us to understand the basic house plumbing system? I would like to divide my bathroom to two, and put plumbing for another set of toliet, sink and bath. thanks!
I do have some plumbing videos.th-cam.com/play/PLh0KqGKtX4oXU5ZuXO1ucatgPligEyDl9.html
Shannon, thanks so much for your quick reply!
We dont have flying cars but definitely this stuff is pretty impresive,before it was all metal,not anymore
this is what i do for my job. love it
Good to love what you do everyday!
best howto ever !i really enjoyed your video
I heard if you cut the ring then use a heat gun and slightly heat the pipe it comes right off the fitting
Hi Shannon,,,great video here on the Pex,,,I hear yer "Inns and yer Oautts" yer must be from Canada I reckon.? Please keep up the good work and God Bless. DD in L.A.
In addition the ring to hold the tubes can you also use some adhesive on the manifold fittings along with the rings? Is that what they call "ubonor"
Thanks for the video, your explanations are perfect. Keep up the great work!
Thank you
I have not noticed a real difference , I will have to pay more attention next job.
You can expand the rings to make then go on easy. Also if you leave your tool expanded holding the pipe expanded you will find you have more time and will be less likely to have a joint not seat.
good points
Great Video, very informative .. I would suggest you check local codes as the waste line looking to the left seems to far from the vent
Normally a vent has to be with in 2 feet of the trap weir and the fixture within 2 feet of the trap inlet
+Sylvan Tieger the pipe size determines the distance from the trap weir ....... 1 and a half pipe 3 foot 6 , 2 in pipe 5 feet , 3 in pipe 8 feet.
+ozarkdaredevils Not according to our local code (NYC) had their own code until recently
thats why you check your local codes
Awesome video Shannon. Very well clarified with both tools and nice tips about timing and other information. lol on not your Nipple :), Great job.
I have been a plumber for 39 years and repiped many houses but I never put a shark bite ball valve in where this guy did. If the seals ever blow, and they have been known to do so you would be in a mess. Just sweat a brass valve with male Pex fittings out of each end and Pex them together instead of that slip in the valve. All fittings should be pex together for a safer plumbing system.
I bet they can but how many have you seen do that in 39 yrs?
Seen 9 so far
HouseImprovements What I forgot to say was that Aquapex and Shark Bite haven't been around for 39 years, they came around in about 1990 ish . That was when I was introduced to them. Very sharp people who invented them and the gas stainless of Wardflex, track pipe , can't remember the name of the other one. But I have seen some fail. I asked a friend of mine who was a plumber and started down In LA , he has forgot more than most know , I said to him well with this shark bite while doing a re pipe why not just hook it all up with that sharkbite. He told me not a good idea. It was intended for fixes in walls and places you can't sweat copper or get into easily. Like mobile homes and repair situations. Don't get me wrong its a great product and I use it when I need to but in a re pipe I usually sweat pex fittings and go with the pex rings and have never had to come back unless some dumb shit ran a nail through the wall hanging a picture or something lol. It has made the plumbing industry easy to work with but a lot of homeowners that think they can plumb will go out and buy a roll of this and try to re pipe their house. Bad thing is they do not know how to size pipe for the correct volume and units the house requires. So that is where they fail. Out here in California if a inspector catches you using it he will ask you for your card when you took the class. If you don't have it he will tell you to rip it out and run copper lol. That is if you get busted by an inspector.
Ya push fits are great in tight areas where you are to scared to light the torch that is for sure. I have seen one failure in about 10 yrs and that was an bad O ring cause it leaked right from the start.
HouseImprovements I happen to see more than that guess I have done a lot of plumbing over the years. More than I like to be honest with you but I didn't mind the pay check from the customer's lol. They are good for tight places that you don't want to light up a torch. And it's so fast too. You don't have to wait a half hr to wait for the pex ring to shrink all the way down. Its like slip it in and turn on the water.
I'm a master plumber and I use stainless steel crimp sleeves. never had a leak. I had the worsbo rep come out and we raced. I did 20 crimp sleeves to his 7. way faster using the stainless crimp sleeves. plus it's 10 cents more a foot for the worsbo pex. and I do 1800 feet average on a house using pex. plus they don't have red or blue or white pex it's all clear?
Very good easy to understand great job.
Thanks Philip
as you explained be careful with knife when you cut ring, but for the pipe use hot air to avoid damaging ribs on union. Make a little transparent then remove pipe. Of cause work must be performed in gloves.
When you used the expansion tool to stretch the 1/2” pex A tubing, couldn’t you have slide it over the copper 1/2” pipe without that Cupler that was on it?
Do you need about eight revolutions on the expansion tool that is why it was not seating properly
The hardware stores seem to be very dry when it comes to Pex-A fittings of various types.
I think that you need to install 1/2" PEX pipe with 1/2" threaded 90 deg elbow with ears (to put screws on just like shower fitting at 6 ft high) & that you can screw on 2x4 (in between 2 studs) & then use 3"long x 1/2"dia brass nipple. This will make your fitting strong. Use for toilet cold water & Hot & Cold for Kitchen sink or bath vanity
I'm a kitchen and bath remodeler. This is how I do it too. I use a drop ear mounted to a stud and then a male adapter and cpvc as the stub out. It's an easy rough in while you're building and if it should ever get broken, it's an easy fix. Shower fitting at 6 ft high? Are you building for midgets?
does pex a expansion fittings have better, longer, more secure connections than sharkbites and other pex-b fittings?
No not necessarily. Better than Sharkbite IMO
As always very impressive knowledge sir. Thank you.
What if rats get the bitting on the pex technology? This is why we can't use it in Nyc. Great videos and info thank u
I love the Wirsbo pex system, thank you Germans! I think it is the best system on the market. I love the cordless expander tool too :)
Uponor is a Finnish company.
I’m just curious why you would use Shark Bite valves instead of the Uponor valves. Uponor/Wirsboro has such a great system including PEX rated for heating systems.
My local supplier does not even carry the valves.
I think 4 stretches .... is not enough and that's why you had an issue with that cold blue fitting not slipping on easily.
I was taught 9 times.... 9, I've never had to push it down hard. Slips right over brass fitting.
Ya i usually do about 6 but I lost count during filming, LOL
thank you for making great how to video's!
Great video, thanks for sharing it
You bet
Thank you for this excellent video.
For me you don't have enough shut off valves you got one for the cold water that I can see. And me I like to have some on other side in case you do get a leak.
Put as many as you like.
I just answered my own question. Watching the battery operated tool, it doesn't expand the same amount on every cycle like the full stroke of the manual tool. Battery strength may be an issue.
Thanks for the video. Very well done.
How do you remove those pex rings? By cutting? (Answered at 18:40, thanks.)
Thanks was very helpful. I love your videos.
Did you say 50 cents per ft ? Thanks very informative video.
new plumbing technology, thank you ...
not really new but newer
yep been dealing with this crap for over 15 years...
squirrels love the stuff...
don't let them in your attic....talk about a flood...lol
As always great video. Thank you.
Thanks Shannon,
i keep stickin it on my nipple but i cant get a good seal. haha. great video man. you explain stuff so us common folk can understand and learn something
BUBBA BELL if it's cold use a torch sort of near it. Don't touch the flame to the ring but the heat will contract it quicker.
if it's cold, the nipple is usually quite abit longer, and that's when you......
oh wait, ....nevermind........