This is our first video that uses so many charts and diagrams - did you find our illustrations helpful? What can we do better for future videos? Thanks for watching!
Very helpful thank you! What about if you are using a manifold, I've been looking to buy one and they are pretty much 3/4" or 1" inlet for hot and cold and then 1/2" going to all fixtures...
@@joelprestamo9074 Joel, what you are describing is called a parallel water distribution system that uses a manifold. There are two types of manifold systems: + The “home run” system utilizes a centrally located manifold to individually distribute supply lines to each fixture. + The “remote manifold” system utilizes a trunk or main, which services several small manifolds that in turn service a group of individual fixtures. Which system are you thinking about?
@@joelprestamo9074 Joel, you would pivot to size based on GPM for the demand of all outlets supplied. Check with your local code but it will be somewhere around: 1/2" - GPM: Velocity at 4 ft./sec. = 2. Velocity at 8 ft./sec. = 5 3/4" - GPM: Velocity at 4 ft./sec. = 6. Velocity at 8 ft./sec. = 11 1" - GPM: Velocity at 4 ft./sec. = 10. Velocity at 8 ft./sec. = 20 1 1/4" - GPM: Velocity at 4 ft./sec. = 15. Velocity at 8 ft./sec. = 31 1 1/2" - GPM: Velocity at 4 ft./sec. = 22. Velocity at 8 ft./sec. = 44 Pros of a Home Run system: + Being able to turn off one circuit to make repairs without shutting down water to the whole house + Leaks are usually located at the manifold rather than out in the distribution piping. Cons: +Really hard to have a hot water recirc. This causes you to wait for hot water. +Wayyyyy more pex piping you need to buy. In summary, it's good for small houses with a centrally-located access to the manifold, bad for large houses that want instant hot water. I usually recommend trunk and branch systems as opposed to a manifold system. Hope that helps!
I am going to replace a 1990s pipeline of 130feet which was 1/2 inch GI with a PPR of 1inch(32mm external diameter) soon. GI was good till 2010 but now it has reduced flow from corrosion.
Hey- this is like the most beautifully put together and well produced educational/informative home improvement video Ive ever seen in TH-cam or otherwise. Someone get this guy a full time job doing this.
Wow, you are a life saver. Taking a plumbing class on line and your explanation is pure GOLD. You explain so thoroughly. It has helped me a lot. You are a master teacher. Thank you, thank you!!!!
Best explanation ever! Thank you so much. I have probably just gotten "lucky" sizing plumbing on rehabs in the past. Now I know I'll be doing the right way!
I love the video and it came at a perfect time for me. I'm sure a lot of people would like to see more videos like this. There really isn't a lot out there explaining how people go about sizing stuff up for their house if they're doing it themselves.
I'm an old San Francisco local 38 plumber. Cast iron and copper was the norm there. I did a 4" copper waste (Exposed below) and vent system for the telephone company. Priceless. Nice video and I'm sure you're a top notch plumber. I was! ;-))
A lot goes into these choices. Code is a minimum as you stated, but local codes will also come into play as well as manufacturers recommendations for their faucets (ie.. Grohe brand calls for 3/4” feed on most of their products) which is why you want to have your fixtures picked out before mechanicals are installed so tradesmen know what to prepare for.
Excellent video on the whole house plumbing.... Someone installed PEX B at this main coming into the house in a repair but bc you'll never see all the fixtures on at the same time the customer never knew it was done. 99.9% of the time it'll never move 22.25GPM through that point. Copper crimp with no tape/protection buried in the ground. Thanks again for taking the time and the videographers effort. subbed.
I am now a subscriber bro! I’m new to rough in plumbing about a month in and I just about got about all the 3rd&4th guy stuff down backings, scabs, setting tubs, drilling backings, ford fittings for service etc. today when I was in the crawl I had to help the 2nd guy (water piper) tee in some lines and I’m laughing because I think I had that ah ha moment like “oh shit I know how this goes now” anyways dude your video confirmed it and explained so much to me that I felt like I already knew and I’m gonna re watch this video over and over, I’m soooo excited. Love from Seattle!! 💪🏾
What a superb, clear, professional presentation. I am just about to plumb an entire off-grid farmhouse with three kitchens & two bathrooms. This was extremely helpful. Thanks.
Awesome as a remodeler I’ve been doing plumbing for yrs and used standard configuration I run the mains as 3/4 then to 1/2. This really opened my eyes to the calculations really needed. Thanx very helpful video
Wow... Fantastic ! Can't wait to do this..! Especially to see the permit issuer's / inspector's face when I pull out a similar diagram for confirming the plan/s for my DIY replumb, with permit...! Also helps with buying material types and quantities needed, and KNOWING it's going to work... (Definitely to review all beforehand with town inspector -with additional details on clamp-support locations, elbow compositions, etc., so I know it'll pass inspection, provided that I do the connections / all properly). Thanks much...!!
Remember that this is finding the "minimum" allowed size. You can definitely upsize for more flow. I run at least 3/4" automatically from the water heater all the way to the end of the line and branch off to each fixture with 1/2" .
You can definitely upsize for more flow, but for hot water you also want to consider that the larger the pipe, the longer you have to run the tap to get hot water which is both a daily (or more) annoyance and a waste of water. You could reduce this issue with a recirculating pump setup, but then it still increases your water heater load. A length of 3/4" pipe contains more than twice the water of the same length of 1/2", so you'll stand around approximately twice as long to get hot water to come out and you'll waste twice as much water. For cold water it doesn't really matter other than material costs.
Wouldn’t oversizing it make you more prone to pressure drops elsewhere when both run at the same time? “Hey, look at this awesome water pressure when only one is running!” (Add three running at once) “Oh… this is not as cool.”
@Ryan Kramer this is just a guess, but the larger pipe should maintain higher pressure because the water can flow slower through it and still maintain the volume of water being poured from the various openings. If it follows Bernoulli's Principle, then a faster flowing liquid will produce less outward pressure on its container, while a slower moving fluid produces more. That should make a smaller line more prone to reduced pressure when multiple valves are open.
@@ryankramer I helped replace all of the water lines in my parents house from galvanized to 3/4 -1 inch cooper all the way through the basement, changing near where it heads up to fixtures. They recently had to install a new bathroom and I wasn't available so they called a plumber to do it, he chose poorly and used 1/2 inch for the cold water lines. Now they cannot use that shower and any other water fixture in the house or they get burned if someone uses any cold water. The 1/2 inch water lines shouldn't be that bad, so maybe he fucked up the soldering to much and partially obstructed the pipes or connected it farther away then he should have and flow is extra poor? I haven't had time to check on it so I can try to unfuck his disaster, but either way you have to size your pipes properly.
@@Bound4Earth THIS this is what I'm worried about-- scalding my future tenant if they happen to be showering when I decide to water the gardens. Any advice for me-- I want to put in 2 sillcocks-- there is no exisiting way to water the gardens I am starting in my (new to me) 1890's duplex. Should I tee in before the first fixture lines (1st floor shower) or just after? I'm guessing after (distal to). And do I keep same size-- 3/4 before splitting it to 1/2 and 1/2 for the north side and south side sillcocks?
I’d like to learn how to hook up a whole house water filter system for this too & if that increases pipe sizing needs. Also, why does most whole house filter systems have 1” pipe inlet/outlets, but my pressure tank (well water) has a 3/4” outlet? Makes it confusing & I’m not sure which size to have for my Main Line! From this, I’m confident all my fixtures I can run 1/2” branches to & be fine, though!
These videos are excellent. I am a property maintenance supervisor, and pretty good at it, but I am a Jack of all trades, master of none. It is great to find informational videos that will grow my skill set, and yet are also very entertaining.
Informative illustrations which clearly showed the calculation and fixture stack-up process when sizing water lines. I feel compelled to verify what is in my home before I start two bathroom renovations. Helpful explanation at the end of your video regarding Pex B flow restriction and when to consider sizing up. Would be curious to see some content on the potential issues of not having the lines sized properly. Great work!
As a Harry Homeowner, this is very helpful information presented in a clear manner. Just what I needed. I'll pass it around. PS - Your artwork is perfect for the task. You should sign it. :)
Nice video. I would suggest adding to the total developed length based on the number of fittings in the system as required by code. The simple method is to add 1.2 feet per fitting. The ICC Codes also require the distance from water main to the meter be add to total developed length. Friction loss through the water meter or any special fixture such as backflow preventer, water softener or pressure reducing valve.
I'm thinking of doing the same thing, but probably using Pex B so I wonder if simply duplicating the galvanized without upscaling would work. On the other hand, the inside of my ancient galvanized pipes is probably clogged to the point that anything is better and even the pex b fixtures would be an improvement!
I know now why you said "your favorite plumber". I can not thank you enough for removing such a huuuuge burden regarding pipe sizing and pressure drop. Could you please make a video on how to select the size of the Water heater ( heating element selection) & Water storage tank.. God Bless!
In gravity fed plumbing where you have a water tank on your roof. The distances will be from the tank and not the water meter. Plus will their be other differences
great video but I had a question about the sizing connecting to the water heater. I ran through my calcs using the provided method and found the last stretch of pipe connecting to my water heater should be 1". Unfortunately I dont think they make water heaters with this inlet size. I know I can just step it down, but the whole point of all this is to not impede the flow rates or restrict the lines, right? I'm also planning on adding a hot water recirculating pump and a home water filter system as well.
Love the info and videos, I am not a plumber but these videos intrigue me and provide great info on the way installations work. I love DIY projects and learning about all trades so this info is GREAT! I do have one question...How is the pressure increased in a home. Reason is my parents are looking to build a home out in the country and I am curious on how water pressure is maintained at city supplied water pressure, if they getting water from a well? Is there a pump inside the home that regulates water pressure received upon use of each fixture? how does that work? the home will be a ranch one story home on a hill, where the garage and pressure tank will be on below the home. Should the Pressure tank be installed on the roof to have gravity assist with pressure?
Great video! I understand obtaining the difference in pressure loss of 0.443 / LF for vertical rise. I've seen a few other videos that use the psychrometric chart from Table E103.3(3) 'TABLE FOR ESTIMATING DEMAND'. In your case, why is the available pressure loss per 100 linear feet for the most remote fixture not factored in? I arrive at different values using these charts, unless one is for the utility's main water line and the other is for the supply line from the meter to the building. Hope my question isn't too confusing!
Here in Mich a 2 family flat has a 3 quarter water meter.we run 3quarter then half at each fixture.if running pex with the insert fittings I just run 3quarter to the fixture and use a 3quarter to half adapter at the fixtures.good video taking the time to teach and share
So helpful! I'm currently in trade school and this refresher was amazing! Could you do a video on sizing Waste and vent also? I always struggle with DWV more. Especially doing the Cross secionals. Thanks!
That's awesome to hear! Thanks for the thought on sizing waste and vent - we're planning a bunch of videos, so we'll keep this topic in mind. Best of luck in trade school. It's a great career.
When I checked out my brother's rental properly I was shocked to see it was all individual 1/4 inch pex tubing. One big line into 20 in the basement branching off in every direction. It looked terrible and the main ran up an outside wall right before it split, so all of the lines would freeze in the winter. More plumbers need to watch this video, especially with Pex being much easier to work with and not having to think as much. Some just turn off the brain completely. To be fair this was nearly a decade ago, so it might be better researched now.
My water line is 3/4" pex from the shutoff valve coming in from the street and runs to the tankless water heater (in the basement. Then it is 3/4 to each end of the house for the basement, main floor and then up to the 2nd floor. Each fixture is supplied via a "T" to 1/2" pex. When someone is in the shower and someone else flushes a toilet and/or turns on the kitchen sink the pressure in the shower drops significantly. Then if the washing machine get turned on, forget about the shower. I've never experienced this before. What can I do? Thanks, John T.
I got a couple questions, and sorry if these were already addressed. 1) Does elevation or length of run matter? It's my understanding that friction losses in long pipe and head pressure from vertical rises will both reduce the pressure. 2) what do you do for hose bibs and sillcocks? 3) How does a localized reduction effect these calcs? My rur199in tankless water heater is rated for 11gpm, but it only has 3/4" fittings for cold in and hot out. Service is 1". 4) my service has a 10-15ft length where it jumps up to 1.25". It's 1" coming in and 1" before branching out, but there is this unusual section of larger pipe used for no apparent reason. Why is this?
I loved your video, I decided just to watch it out of curiosity. And ended up finding that a few of the runs in my house were actually undersized. But I am curious about fridge water dispenser and ice maker? What would the WSFU be for those? I couldn't even find it in the 2024 book.
I’d be incredibly interested in how to plan for a water filter or multiple types of filters after your main and it’s impact on the math/flow here. Planning on replumbing my 70’s house and this info has been amazing. Thank you!
Very helpful. I am starting a diy repipe and I needed to learn about pipe sizing. I am making my own plumbing out line and using you guide. Thanks man!
Are these numbers for PEX only? Or are they accurate for copper, too? I ask because when I look at the fittings, the PEX fittings go inside the PEX pipe, causing (in my mind) choke points. Where the copper fittings go on the outside of the copper pipe. It seems to me that copper will allow a steady flow, or the PEX would always be a reduction in a copper equivalent. If I’m making sense. For example, 20’ of copper with say 10 fittings would allow X amount of water to flow per minute. However, the same 20’ of PEX with 10 fittings wouldn’t allow the same amount of water to flow per minute. The reason I even looked all this up, is because I’m a handyman, and went to a home that has a mixture of PEX, copper and even some CPVC. All coming from the basement to the second floor and 1/2”. It all seemed to be undersized, since it’s coming from the basement. After watching this video, I’ve learned the HOT water lines are sized appropriately at 1/2”. But the COLD water lines should’ve been 3/4” going to the second floor. But, the lines running through the walls from the basement to the second floor are all the original copper, except where they’re connected to the main line in the basement. That’s where the mix-mash of PEX, CPVC, and copper are. Honestly, it looks hideous. I just don’t know if it actually would pass an inspection. Any thoughts? And yes, I have photos!!! 🥴 UPDATE: Well how about that? After I posted my question, I finished watching the final couple minutes of the video, and my answers were already there. 😮
As an industry pro I found this video so helpful. Sometimes I forget why I do things that are just by memory. I would love to have this diagram as a poster in my home office. If I can’t get one screen shots will have to do
Great timing going to install a filtration system for my well and was wondering of sizing the pex pipe after it. I'm just running 1inch through the system and will switch to 3/4 to feed the branches.
Nice video and very informative for the average DIYer. You should do one more complicated, one that includes multiple hose bibs and lawn sprinklers and 3/4” fill valves, multiple shower heads etc.
Extremely informative video!! But I have a ton of questions now.... Please make a separate video maybe? First, why is sizing to this level of detail so important? What would happen good/bad if not sized this way? What is the pros/cons to, say, run 1/2" from your meter and end up with 1" at your fixtures? What is water hammer and how to size pipe to prevent it? How to size pipe to prevent being scalded if someone flushes a toilet? Ad lastly, how to size pipe if you're using a manifold system(s)? Thanks alot Quinn!!
I'm installing a manifold system. Starting at the meter 3/4" runs to the hot water heater, back to the manifold, then branches off with 1/2" lines running for each appliance. Since I'm not replumbing the one bathroom yet, that system all runs on a single 1/2" branch as it did before, but that will be upgraded in due time.
Hi, it's very nice and informative... Kindly tell me what if use throughout 1" line ... will there be any difference in flow and pressures (cost dosen't matter).
Excellent video! I have a question : What about the Uponor logic system? Would you desigh it the same way? I pray for the best for you and your family. Thank you and take care.
Hey William! Fantastic video. Very informative. Not sure how quickly you’ll see this, but I have a half bath that I’m converting into a full bath. And also I’m adding a washer dryer on the opposite side of the wall that hosts the vanity. It’s slab on grade… What do I do in order to make sure everything is up to code? Specifically, 1) how would I vent the new washer (tie into vanity or separate? And which drain needs to be higher if they can join?) 2) Based on your video, if the supply line to the half bath is only 1/2” for the toilet and vanity, I will have to upgrade that supply line to 3/4”, correct? Since im adding 4 unit shower and “x”unit washer **To help clarify, water heater is about 10’ away vertically from 1/2 bath. Anything helps. Thanks man
That was really a great video and explanation amazing work. It wasn't what i was looking for as my problem was going from copper to pex but this did explain how increasing water pressure can help get adequate amount of pressure in a different way as well explain why homes are starting to get 1" lines.
Also interesting to note, 1" pipe, along with a 3/4" or preferably 1" meter is absolutely necessary to allow for a fire sprinkler system. Preferably at time of construction but also just to allow retrofit without digging up the yard. Pretty much impossible to make a 2 head NFPA 13D calc work with a 3/4" private main and 5/8" meter.
My house is only 1550 sq. ft. and on one level. I want to do the work myself. Can I just use 1" for the main runs with 1/2" branches to each fixture? To my mind, that allows for a good flow of water, with more volume. Then, when it gets to the various fixtures, there's plenty of volume. I like this also as there will be little to no pressure drop when someone is in the shower and a toilet is flushed, or someone opens a tap in the kitchen.
Very helpful video. I got 2 doubts though. When he says 1 inch pipe. Is that ok with having the city supply at 3/4 too to t he meter?. 2nd I imagine Manifold systems come in handy to manage water flow right ? ✌
Working on remodel industry for 14 years now and finally teach me some very important, how about the distances, have to run flat area about 1000' line, thinking 1 1/2" pipe, any suggestions
Quick question: Instead of "T" branches in a smaller bathroom where the 3 fixtures are 1/2 inch line, what about a 3-Branch "T" closed PEX port.. You'll eliminate 5 connections?
One question... you sized meter at 3/4" and bldg supply 1" (at 6:46 seconds) but at 6:53 sec you highlight that 1" line would cally 30 WSFU.... but that row is for a 1" meter. Should you have used 28 OR can you use the higher of the two bldg supply line sizes?
Great video! The illustrations are AWESOME!!! I’m about to repipe my whole house as it currently has about 4 different type of piping, it was built in the 50’s! This has come at a perfect time. I’m working off a .5hp sub pump sitting at about 60ft deep in a 75ft 4” well with 60psi and 10-11gpm. The main line from the pump into the house is 3/4” and about 15ft distance before reaching the 20gal diaphragm tank. In your example water begins at the meter, as I don’t have a meter, where do I begin sizing from? Would it be from the well head, or would it be from the diaphragm tank? The reason for my question is I’m at 15 wsfu for my cold (including 2 hose bibs =3.5wsfu).
I’m a little confused. You have a 3/4 meter. How does running 1” out of it work. Your restriction is the meter so I don’t see how going larger will help. I have 3/4 meter and the house has 3/4 pvc running off of it. Explain please.
errr isn't PVC non potable? I think you can go wide and it fills up, like, waterfall to a pond and then to another waterfall, lumen changes the pressure (but other factors too).
If you like good hose flow (a fire safety thing too!) you should automatically consider flowing 10 GPM from the most remote outlet at the highest possible pressure, i.e 3/4” copper all the way to the hose outlet and make sure it’s a 3/4” full port ball valve. And use 3/4” hose, not 5/8”.
I'm a bit confused. I am getting ready to build a 2 1/2 bath home with shower and tub seperate in each full bath. Kitchen sink and washing machine and I figured 34 for fixture units. I don't know the meter psi yet, but it is a 1" line. The part where I'm confused is if it's 1" and I go 2" pvc 615' to the house, how does this help? Wouldn't it be the same if I put a 1" Pex line 615' to the house? In other words, how does it add pressure when I'm starting at 1" to begin with? Thanks for great video by the way.
Morning, Quin. As a subscriber since last year, I thank you for your helpful videos. I'd like to double-check some things. I am planning plumbing for a small guest house (~600 sq. ft., 17.0 total fixture units, maximum developed length ~288’, maximum change in height ~6’-8') with domestic supplied from a principle residence. The 1958-built principle residence has a well-supplied pressure tank, immediately downstream of which is a whole-house sediment filter. Ideally, I would like to tap into the system downstream of the whole house filter. (Translating your example to this application, as I understand it the "system pressure" would be the low setting on the pressure tank switch.) QUESTION #1: How do I factor in the whole-house sediment filter, and what if a UV filter is added? QUESTION #2a: When the guest house site was prepped, I laid in from the principle residence two 1-1/4” black plastic water lines, the vast majority of which are below frost line and protected by foam board, with the exception of the ends, which are only a foot or so below grade but protected by foam board. It was my intention to use the black plastic lines as sleeves for a water supply line in the unlikely even that the line freezes, breaks, and needs replacement. I have a bad feeling that I will need a 1” supply from the whole-house filter to the guest house, which the 1-1/4” black plastic won’t accommodate. Can I use two 3/4” supplies, one through each black plastic to meet the need? QUESTION #2b: I could reduce the maximum developed length by ~80' if I tapped into the well line before it gets to the pressure tank, which would also bypass the sediment filter. The trade-off would be having to use a second sediment filer in the guest house, which would carry with it some amount of fixture units. But, would I be committing to having to use one of the 1-1/4” black plastic as the water line, or would there still be the possibility of sleeving a 3/4” line (or 2 taps into the well line and thus 2 black plastics with 3/4" lines)? QUESTION #3: I see no value in using a manifold for such a small guest house, especially with all but the hose bibb gathered together in one-quarter of the footptint. But, the principle residence will be re-plumbed using a manifold system of home runs. (The line from the well to the pressure tank is 1-1/4” black plastic, but thereafter only 3/4”. It seems clear to me that I will need to replace the 3/4” with a 1” line from the pressure tank to at least the sediment filter. Even if the principle is not re-plumbed with manifold, but certainly extend the 1" to the manifold.) Is there a separate formulation for manifolds with home runs, or is that simply a plumbing layout that unfortunately greatly multiplies the maximum developed distance. I know I’m asking a lot, but any answers, or pointing me in the direction as to where I can look for answers, would be much appreciated. (At least I try to ask some good ones!) Gary
If you don’t have city water and are going off a well, would you measure the distance for the farthest/highest fixture off the pressure tank? Also with a 40/60 pressure setting on the tank which would you use for your general pressure?
As a DIYer, what if you don't size according to code? In your example, say you connected 3/4" pipe from your water meter instead of the 1" that you're "supposed" to use? Or you use 1/2" pipe when code says 3/4". Are there actual safety concerns with this, or just a reduction in flow? I ask because I am finishing my basement and want to add a bathroom. I can easily tee off an existing 1/2" pex pipe that is currently going to a hose bib at the back of the house, however code says that I should tee off of 3/4" pipe closer to the water meter since I "can't" supply the entire bathroom with a single 1/2" pipe. This would involve >30' of 3/4" pipe installation vs 10' of 1/2" pipe. If it's a safety concern I will bite the bullet and do it by the book, however I want to minimize complexity if I can.
Pex is something new to me, so I have a lot to learn. It all makes sense to me, but I'm going to have to watch this a few more times to make sure I get it 100 percent. Those fixture numbers, and other information you got from the book Do I need to buy a book? Where do I get one?
GreatTH-cam channel. Question; when repiping a small house, can I use a small water manifold,say 5 outlets off the main line and use one 1/2” line to an entire bathroom (example), then add another manifold to supply all water faucets to that specific bathroom? Essentially one main manifold and x number of sub manifolds in each required room. Should I use 3/4” or 1/2” for the run to each room? Thanks.
@@ridkwngridken3863 not when you buy bulk and all ready have them. use your brain. i was going to run for president against joe and they said I was WAY overqualified.
Say theoretically in your diagram prior to the meter is 1/2 or 3/4 on the residential side of the meter someone already put 1 inch? How does this affect our calculations?
i have a new veismann boiler with a indirect holding tank. pipe size is 1 inch between boiler and holding tank. Currently have a 1/2 inch cold water supply line. is this sufficient for the boiler or should i change it out to 3/4 inch pex or 1 inch pex line
This is our first video that uses so many charts and diagrams - did you find our illustrations helpful? What can we do better for future videos? Thanks for watching!
@Christ Lucca Good! Appreciate the feedback.
Very helpful thank you! What about if you are using a manifold, I've been looking to buy one and they are pretty much 3/4" or 1" inlet for hot and cold and then 1/2" going to all fixtures...
@@joelprestamo9074 Joel, what you are describing is called a parallel water distribution system that uses a manifold. There are two types of manifold systems:
+ The “home run” system utilizes a centrally located manifold to individually distribute supply lines to each fixture.
+ The “remote manifold” system utilizes a trunk or main, which services several small manifolds that in turn service a group of individual fixtures.
Which system are you thinking about?
@@willplumb I am thinking about the home run system.
@@joelprestamo9074 Joel, you would pivot to size based on GPM for the demand of all outlets supplied. Check with your local code but it will be somewhere around:
1/2" - GPM: Velocity at 4 ft./sec. = 2. Velocity at 8 ft./sec. = 5
3/4" - GPM: Velocity at 4 ft./sec. = 6. Velocity at 8 ft./sec. = 11
1" - GPM: Velocity at 4 ft./sec. = 10. Velocity at 8 ft./sec. = 20
1 1/4" - GPM: Velocity at 4 ft./sec. = 15. Velocity at 8 ft./sec. = 31
1 1/2" - GPM: Velocity at 4 ft./sec. = 22. Velocity at 8 ft./sec. = 44
Pros of a Home Run system:
+ Being able to turn off one circuit to make repairs without shutting down water to the whole house
+ Leaks are usually located at the manifold rather than out in the distribution piping.
Cons:
+Really hard to have a hot water recirc. This causes you to wait for hot water.
+Wayyyyy more pex piping you need to buy.
In summary, it's good for small houses with a centrally-located access to the manifold, bad for large houses that want instant hot water. I usually recommend trunk and branch systems as opposed to a manifold system. Hope that helps!
planning on replumbing my 130 yr old home. This is immensely helpful thank you
So am I. 135yr old house.
same. mine was built in the mid 80s
Same here. I'm just a baby - 79 yr old hunting camp turned residence.
I am going to replace a 1990s pipeline of 130feet which was 1/2 inch GI with a PPR of 1inch(32mm external diameter) soon. GI was good till 2010 but now it has reduced flow from corrosion.
Hey- this is like the most beautifully put together and well produced educational/informative home improvement video Ive ever seen in TH-cam or otherwise. Someone get this guy a full time job doing this.
Thanks, Tom! I appreciate the high praise!
Can’t say less what a master..
Wow, you are a life saver. Taking a plumbing class on line and your explanation is pure GOLD. You explain so thoroughly. It has helped me a lot. You are a master teacher. Thank you, thank you!!!!
A plumbing CLASS online with who? Sounds interesting.
This explanation was perfect. In depth enough without being too repetitive. The charts were fantastic. Really appreciate this video!
Best explanation ever! Thank you so much. I have probably just gotten "lucky" sizing plumbing on rehabs in the past. Now I know I'll be doing the right way!
Super Helpful THANKS!! As a DIYer it's nice to have a comprehensive how to video and Sweet diagrams!
I love the video and it came at a perfect time for me. I'm sure a lot of people would like to see more videos like this. There really isn't a lot out there explaining how people go about sizing stuff up for their house if they're doing it themselves.
This comment is music to my ears. Real happy that this helped you out!
I'm an old San Francisco local 38 plumber. Cast iron and copper was the norm there. I did a 4" copper waste (Exposed below) and vent system for the telephone company. Priceless. Nice video and I'm sure you're a top notch plumber. I was! ;-))
that was one of the easiest lesson i've had online great lesson thanks guys
Great to hear! Happy to help.
A lot goes into these choices. Code is a minimum as you stated, but local codes will also come into play as well as manufacturers recommendations for their faucets (ie.. Grohe brand calls for 3/4” feed on most of their products) which is why you want to have your fixtures picked out before mechanicals are installed so tradesmen know what to prepare for.
Excellent video on the whole house plumbing.... Someone installed PEX B at this main coming into the house in a repair but bc you'll never see all the fixtures on at the same time the customer never knew it was done. 99.9% of the time it'll never move 22.25GPM through that point. Copper crimp with no tape/protection buried in the ground.
Thanks again for taking the time and the videographers effort. subbed.
I am now a subscriber bro! I’m new to rough in plumbing about a month in and I just about got about all the 3rd&4th guy stuff down backings, scabs, setting tubs, drilling backings, ford fittings for service etc. today when I was in the crawl I had to help the 2nd guy (water piper) tee in some lines and I’m laughing because I think I had that ah ha moment like “oh shit I know how this goes now” anyways dude your video confirmed it and explained so much to me that I felt like I already knew and I’m gonna re watch this video over and over, I’m soooo excited.
Love from Seattle!! 💪🏾
What a superb, clear, professional presentation. I am just about to plumb an entire off-grid farmhouse with three kitchens & two bathrooms. This was extremely helpful. Thanks.
Awesome as a remodeler I’ve been doing plumbing for yrs and used standard configuration I run the mains as 3/4 then to 1/2. This really opened my eyes to the calculations really needed. Thanx very helpful video
A great description of the process. The repetition just illustrates the detail needed to get an accurate need. Thank you for this video.
Wow... Fantastic ! Can't wait to do this..! Especially to see the permit issuer's / inspector's face when I pull out a similar diagram for confirming the plan/s for my DIY replumb, with permit...! Also helps with buying material types and quantities needed, and KNOWING it's going to work... (Definitely to review all beforehand with town inspector -with additional details on clamp-support locations, elbow compositions, etc., so I know it'll pass inspection, provided that I do the connections / all properly). Thanks much...!!
Remember that this is finding the "minimum" allowed size. You can definitely upsize for more flow. I run at least 3/4" automatically from the water heater all the way to the end of the line and branch off to each fixture with 1/2" .
You can definitely upsize for more flow, but for hot water you also want to consider that the larger the pipe, the longer you have to run the tap to get hot water which is both a daily (or more) annoyance and a waste of water. You could reduce this issue with a recirculating pump setup, but then it still increases your water heater load. A length of 3/4" pipe contains more than twice the water of the same length of 1/2", so you'll stand around approximately twice as long to get hot water to come out and you'll waste twice as much water. For cold water it doesn't really matter other than material costs.
Wouldn’t oversizing it make you more prone to pressure drops elsewhere when both run at the same time? “Hey, look at this awesome water pressure when only one is running!” (Add three running at once) “Oh… this is not as cool.”
@Ryan Kramer this is just a guess, but the larger pipe should maintain higher pressure because the water can flow slower through it and still maintain the volume of water being poured from the various openings.
If it follows Bernoulli's Principle, then a faster flowing liquid will produce less outward pressure on its container, while a slower moving fluid produces more.
That should make a smaller line more prone to reduced pressure when multiple valves are open.
@@ryankramer I helped replace all of the water lines in my parents house from galvanized to 3/4 -1 inch cooper all the way through the basement, changing near where it heads up to fixtures.
They recently had to install a new bathroom and I wasn't available so they called a plumber to do it, he chose poorly and used 1/2 inch for the cold water lines. Now they cannot use that shower and any other water fixture in the house or they get burned if someone uses any cold water.
The 1/2 inch water lines shouldn't be that bad, so maybe he fucked up the soldering to much and partially obstructed the pipes or connected it farther away then he should have and flow is extra poor? I haven't had time to check on it so I can try to unfuck his disaster, but either way you have to size your pipes properly.
@@Bound4Earth THIS this is what I'm worried about-- scalding my future tenant if they happen to be showering when I decide to water the gardens. Any advice for me-- I want to put in 2 sillcocks-- there is no exisiting way to water the gardens I am starting in my (new to me) 1890's duplex. Should I tee in before the first fixture lines (1st floor shower) or just after? I'm guessing after (distal to). And do I keep same size-- 3/4 before splitting it to 1/2 and 1/2 for the north side and south side sillcocks?
I’d like to learn how to hook up a whole house water filter system for this too & if that increases pipe sizing needs.
Also, why does most whole house filter systems have 1” pipe inlet/outlets, but my pressure tank (well water) has a 3/4” outlet? Makes it confusing & I’m not sure which size to have for my Main Line!
From this, I’m confident all my fixtures I can run 1/2” branches to & be fine, though!
Very well presented. It takes a lot of work to create videos like this. Thank you.
Yes, it does! Thank you for watching, and I hope this helped!
These videos are excellent. I am a property maintenance supervisor, and pretty good at it, but I am a Jack of all trades, master of none. It is great to find informational videos that will grow my skill set, and yet are also very entertaining.
Informative illustrations which clearly showed the calculation and fixture stack-up process when sizing water lines. I feel compelled to verify what is in my home before I start two bathroom renovations. Helpful explanation at the end of your video regarding Pex B flow restriction and when to consider sizing up. Would be curious to see some content on the potential issues of not having the lines sized properly. Great work!
Glad it was helpful!
As a Harry Homeowner, this is very helpful information presented in a clear manner. Just what I needed. I'll pass it around.
PS - Your artwork is perfect for the task. You should sign it. :)
Nice video. I would suggest adding to the total developed length based on the number of fittings in the system as required by code. The simple method is to add 1.2 feet per fitting. The ICC Codes also require the distance from water main to the meter be add to total developed length. Friction loss through the water meter or any special fixture such as backflow preventer, water softener or pressure reducing valve.
This Video was so good it almost feels illegal. Thank you very much
Tremendously useful. I have galvanized that I'm replacing. Using your information I learned that it is sized well so I can just repeat what I have.
That’s great to hear, Jack. Good luck on your plumbing project!
I'm thinking of doing the same thing, but probably using Pex B so I wonder if simply duplicating the galvanized without upscaling would work. On the other hand, the inside of my ancient galvanized pipes is probably clogged to the point that anything is better and even the pex b fixtures would be an improvement!
I’m a second year student at PHCC and HOLY SHIT this video took a huuuuuge burden off my back. Thank you, keep up the great work and god bless man 🙏🏽
That’s awesome to hear. Happy to help!
I know now why you said "your favorite plumber". I can not thank you enough for removing such a huuuuge burden regarding pipe sizing and pressure drop. Could you please make a video on how to select the size of the Water heater ( heating element selection) & Water storage tank.. God Bless!
Thank you! This was enormously helpful. I really appreciate you walking through the math with us.
In gravity fed plumbing where you have a water tank on your roof. The distances will be from the tank and not the water meter. Plus will their be other differences
Thank you. Love your pictorial diagrams. Really helps the mind to internalize visual with your word description.
Fantastic job young man. Is there a Heisman Trophy for plumbing?
great video but I had a question about the sizing connecting to the water heater. I ran through my calcs using the provided method and found the last stretch of pipe connecting to my water heater should be 1". Unfortunately I dont think they make water heaters with this inlet size. I know I can just step it down, but the whole point of all this is to not impede the flow rates or restrict the lines, right?
I'm also planning on adding a hot water recirculating pump and a home water filter system as well.
Very useful for me. About to run pex in a new house and had not considered this much. Glad I watched this particlular video.
Love the info and videos, I am not a plumber but these videos intrigue me and provide great info on the way installations work. I love DIY projects and learning about all trades so this info is GREAT! I do have one question...How is the pressure increased in a home. Reason is my parents are looking to build a home out in the country and I am curious on how water pressure is maintained at city supplied water pressure, if they getting water from a well? Is there a pump inside the home that regulates water pressure received upon use of each fixture? how does that work? the home will be a ranch one story home on a hill, where the garage and pressure tank will be on below the home. Should the Pressure tank be installed on the roof to have gravity assist with pressure?
Great video! I wish you would have described how to measure the water pressure though. Total novice to that element and your explanations are amazing.
"Awesome" presentation! So easy to understand that an accountant can get it! Thank you
Great video - The only thing that I was unclear on was how to determine the system/static pressure. How do I determine that?
This video is exactly what I was looking for!
Great video! I understand obtaining the difference in pressure loss of 0.443 / LF for vertical rise. I've seen a few other videos that use the psychrometric chart from Table E103.3(3) 'TABLE FOR ESTIMATING DEMAND'. In your case, why is the available pressure loss per 100 linear feet for the most remote fixture not factored in? I arrive at different values using these charts, unless one is for the utility's main water line and the other is for the supply line from the meter to the building. Hope my question isn't too confusing!
Here in Mich a 2 family flat has a 3 quarter water meter.we run 3quarter then half at each fixture.if running pex with the insert fittings I just run 3quarter to the fixture and use a 3quarter to half adapter at the fixtures.good video taking the time to teach and share
great video buddy, was just explaining this to a young up and comer, gonna just share your video next time.
Awesome thank you!
Very helpful, and timely, thanks for putting in that effort
So helpful! I'm currently in trade school and this refresher was amazing! Could you do a video on sizing Waste and vent also? I always struggle with DWV more. Especially doing the Cross secionals. Thanks!
That's awesome to hear! Thanks for the thought on sizing waste and vent - we're planning a bunch of videos, so we'll keep this topic in mind. Best of luck in trade school. It's a great career.
When I checked out my brother's rental properly I was shocked to see it was all individual 1/4 inch pex tubing. One big line into 20 in the basement branching off in every direction. It looked terrible and the main ran up an outside wall right before it split, so all of the lines would freeze in the winter. More plumbers need to watch this video, especially with Pex being much easier to work with and not having to think as much. Some just turn off the brain completely.
To be fair this was nearly a decade ago, so it might be better researched now.
My water line is 3/4" pex from the shutoff valve coming in from the street and runs to the tankless water heater (in the basement. Then it is 3/4 to each end of the house for the basement, main floor and then up to the 2nd floor. Each fixture is supplied via a "T" to 1/2" pex. When someone is in the shower and someone else flushes a toilet and/or turns on the kitchen sink the pressure in the shower drops significantly. Then if the washing machine get turned on, forget about the shower. I've never experienced this before. What can I do? Thanks, John T.
This is absolutely brilliant and so well put together. Thank you!
Great tutorial. Very clear and efficient
Best presentation I've seen no far.
I got a couple questions, and sorry if these were already addressed.
1) Does elevation or length of run matter? It's my understanding that friction losses in long pipe and head pressure from vertical rises will both reduce the pressure.
2) what do you do for hose bibs and sillcocks?
3) How does a localized reduction effect these calcs? My rur199in tankless water heater is rated for 11gpm, but it only has 3/4" fittings for cold in and hot out. Service is 1".
4) my service has a 10-15ft length where it jumps up to 1.25". It's 1" coming in and 1" before branching out, but there is this unusual section of larger pipe used for no apparent reason. Why is this?
I loved your video, I decided just to watch it out of curiosity. And ended up finding that a few of the runs in my house were actually undersized. But I am curious about fridge water dispenser and ice maker? What would the WSFU be for those? I couldn't even find it in the 2024 book.
I’d be incredibly interested in how to plan for a water filter or multiple types of filters after your main and it’s impact on the math/flow here.
Planning on replumbing my 70’s house and this info has been amazing. Thank you!
3/4 to the last branch for residential homes is a good rule of thumb to pass inspection
This has to be among the best, most informative and useful video I have seen, like ever. Nice work!
Very helpful. I am starting a diy repipe and I needed to learn about pipe sizing. I am making my own plumbing out line and using you guide. Thanks man!
Hey, good luck on the repipe project! Glad this helped!
Are these numbers for PEX only? Or are they accurate for copper, too? I ask because when I look at the fittings, the PEX fittings go inside the PEX pipe, causing (in my mind) choke points. Where the copper fittings go on the outside of the copper pipe.
It seems to me that copper will allow a steady flow, or the PEX would always be a reduction in a copper equivalent. If I’m making sense. For example, 20’ of copper with say 10 fittings would allow X amount of water to flow per minute. However, the same 20’ of PEX with 10 fittings wouldn’t allow the same amount of water to flow per minute.
The reason I even looked all this up, is because I’m a handyman, and went to a home that has a mixture of PEX, copper and even some CPVC. All coming from the basement to the second floor and 1/2”. It all seemed to be undersized, since it’s coming from the basement. After watching this video, I’ve learned the HOT water lines are sized appropriately at 1/2”. But the COLD water lines should’ve been 3/4” going to the second floor. But, the lines running through the walls from the basement to the second floor are all the original copper, except where they’re connected to the main line in the basement. That’s where the mix-mash of PEX, CPVC, and copper are.
Honestly, it looks hideous. I just don’t know if it actually would pass an inspection. Any thoughts? And yes, I have photos!!! 🥴
UPDATE:
Well how about that? After I posted my question, I finished watching the final couple minutes of the video, and my answers were already there. 😮
As an industry pro I found this video so helpful. Sometimes I forget why I do things that are just by memory. I would love to have this diagram as a poster in my home office. If I can’t get one screen shots will have to do
thank you for your explanation. but how to determine the size of the make cold water line that supplies the storage tank ?
Great timing going to install a filtration system for my well and was wondering of sizing the pex pipe after it. I'm just running 1inch through the system and will switch to 3/4 to feed the branches.
Nice video and very informative for the average DIYer. You should do one more complicated, one that includes multiple hose bibs and lawn sprinklers and 3/4” fill valves, multiple shower heads etc.
Thanks for the idea!
Extremely informative video!! But I have a ton of questions now.... Please make a separate video maybe? First, why is sizing to this level of detail so important? What would happen good/bad if not sized this way? What is the pros/cons to, say, run 1/2" from your meter and end up with 1" at your fixtures? What is water hammer and how to size pipe to prevent it? How to size pipe to prevent being scalded if someone flushes a toilet? Ad lastly, how to size pipe if you're using a manifold system(s)? Thanks alot Quinn!!
I'm installing a manifold system. Starting at the meter 3/4" runs to the hot water heater, back to the manifold, then branches off with 1/2" lines running for each appliance. Since I'm not replumbing the one bathroom yet, that system all runs on a single 1/2" branch as it did before, but that will be upgraded in due time.
Hi, it's very nice and informative... Kindly tell me what if use throughout 1" line ... will there be any difference in flow and pressures (cost dosen't matter).
Excellent video! I have a question : What about the Uponor logic system? Would you desigh it the same way?
I pray for the best for you and your family. Thank you and take care.
Hey William! Fantastic video. Very informative. Not sure how quickly you’ll see this, but I have a half bath that I’m converting into a full bath. And also I’m adding a washer dryer on the opposite side of the wall that hosts the vanity. It’s slab on grade… What do I do in order to make sure everything is up to code? Specifically, 1) how would I vent the new washer (tie into vanity or separate? And which drain needs to be higher if they can join?) 2) Based on your video, if the supply line to the half bath is only 1/2” for the toilet and vanity, I will have to upgrade that supply line to 3/4”, correct? Since im adding 4 unit shower and “x”unit washer
**To help clarify, water heater is about 10’ away vertically from 1/2 bath. Anything helps. Thanks man
That was really a great video and explanation amazing work. It wasn't what i was looking for as my problem was going from copper to pex but this did explain how increasing water pressure can help get adequate amount of pressure in a different way as well explain why homes are starting to get 1" lines.
Also interesting to note, 1" pipe, along with a 3/4" or preferably 1" meter is absolutely necessary to allow for a fire sprinkler system. Preferably at time of construction but also just to allow retrofit without digging up the yard. Pretty much impossible to make a 2 head NFPA 13D calc work with a 3/4" private main and 5/8" meter.
Quinn, this is fantastic! As a DIYer this information is invaluable, much thanks for putting this out!
My house is only 1550 sq. ft. and on one level. I want to do the work myself. Can I just use 1" for the main runs with 1/2" branches to each fixture? To my mind, that allows for a good flow of water, with more volume. Then, when it gets to the various fixtures, there's plenty of volume. I like this also as there will be little to no pressure drop when someone is in the shower and a toilet is flushed, or someone opens a tap in the kitchen.
Very helpful video. I got 2 doubts though. When he says 1 inch pipe. Is that ok with having the city supply at 3/4 too to t he meter?.
2nd I imagine Manifold systems come in handy to manage water flow right ?
✌
Working on remodel industry for 14 years now and finally teach me some very important, how about the distances, have to run flat area about 1000' line, thinking 1 1/2" pipe, any suggestions
Quick question: Instead of "T" branches in a smaller bathroom where the 3 fixtures are 1/2 inch line, what about a 3-Branch "T" closed PEX port.. You'll eliminate 5 connections?
One question... you sized meter at 3/4" and bldg supply 1" (at 6:46 seconds) but at 6:53 sec you highlight that 1" line would cally 30 WSFU.... but that row is for a 1" meter. Should you have used 28 OR can you use the higher of the two bldg supply line sizes?
What if you have a well? What would you consider meter vs branch?
Also why would branch connections be bigger than the ones going to meter?
Great video! The illustrations are AWESOME!!! I’m about to repipe my whole house as it currently has about 4 different type of piping, it was built in the 50’s! This has come at a perfect time. I’m working off a .5hp sub pump sitting at about 60ft deep in a 75ft 4” well with 60psi and 10-11gpm. The main line from the pump into the house is 3/4” and about 15ft distance before reaching the 20gal diaphragm tank. In your example water begins at the meter, as I don’t have a meter, where do I begin sizing from? Would it be from the well head, or would it be from the diaphragm tank? The reason for my question is I’m at 15 wsfu for my cold (including 2 hose bibs =3.5wsfu).
I’m a little confused. You have a 3/4 meter. How does running 1” out of it work. Your restriction is the meter so I don’t see how going larger will help. I have 3/4 meter and the house has 3/4 pvc running off of it. Explain please.
errr isn't PVC non potable? I think you can go wide and it fills up, like, waterfall to a pond and then to another waterfall, lumen changes the pressure (but other factors too).
Excellent video! How to get the maximum elevation?. why only 12 '?
My (novice) interpretation-- The water meter is only 12' below the highest output (shower) in this example
@Williams Plumbing & Heating - does the 75% rule apply to washing machines (clothes washers)?
Love your video. Please do a sample of sizing water supply for public restroom.
Great video.
Would you also have to include washer/drier, ice makers, hose bibs etc into the fixture unit calculations?
If you like good hose flow (a fire safety thing too!) you should automatically consider flowing 10 GPM from the most remote outlet at the highest possible pressure, i.e 3/4” copper all the way to the hose outlet and make sure it’s a 3/4” full port ball valve. And use 3/4” hose, not 5/8”.
I'm a bit confused. I am getting ready to build a 2 1/2 bath home with shower and tub seperate in each full bath. Kitchen sink and washing machine and I figured 34 for fixture units. I don't know the meter psi yet, but it is a 1" line. The part where I'm confused is if it's 1" and I go 2" pvc 615' to the house, how does this help? Wouldn't it be the same if I put a 1" Pex line 615' to the house? In other words, how does it add pressure when I'm starting at 1" to begin with? Thanks for great video by the way.
thank so much ,very useful ,can we use this method for sizing ppr pipe?
This is awesome. Through and explained very well. Thanks
Thank you for posting this - I am/will use to size my house repiping job.
Great educational video :) What I don't understand is why is the highest fixture height 12 feet when the diagram shows 10+10+8=28? Thanks.
A must for DIYers and of course, plumbers.
Morning, Quin. As a subscriber since last year, I thank you for your helpful videos.
I'd like to double-check some things. I am planning plumbing for a small guest house (~600 sq. ft., 17.0 total fixture units, maximum developed length ~288’, maximum change in height ~6’-8') with domestic supplied from a principle residence. The 1958-built principle residence has a well-supplied pressure tank, immediately downstream of which is a whole-house sediment filter. Ideally, I would like to tap into the system downstream of the whole house filter. (Translating your example to this application, as I understand it the "system pressure" would be the low setting on the pressure tank switch.)
QUESTION #1: How do I factor in the whole-house sediment filter, and what if a UV filter is added?
QUESTION #2a: When the guest house site was prepped, I laid in from the principle residence two 1-1/4” black plastic water lines, the vast majority of which are below frost line and protected by foam board, with the exception of the ends, which are only a foot or so below grade but protected by foam board. It was my intention to use the black plastic lines as sleeves for a water supply line in the unlikely even that the line freezes, breaks, and needs replacement. I have a bad feeling that I will need a 1” supply from the whole-house filter to the guest house, which the 1-1/4” black plastic won’t accommodate. Can I use two 3/4” supplies, one through each black plastic to meet the need?
QUESTION #2b: I could reduce the maximum developed length by ~80' if I tapped into the well line before it gets to the pressure tank, which would also bypass the sediment filter. The trade-off would be having to use a second sediment filer in the guest house, which would carry with it some amount of fixture units. But, would I be committing to having to use one of the 1-1/4” black plastic as the water line, or would there still be the possibility of sleeving a 3/4” line (or 2 taps into the well line and thus 2 black plastics with 3/4" lines)?
QUESTION #3: I see no value in using a manifold for such a small guest house, especially with all but the hose bibb gathered together in one-quarter of the footptint. But, the principle residence will be re-plumbed using a manifold system of home runs. (The line from the well to the pressure tank is 1-1/4” black plastic, but thereafter only 3/4”. It seems clear to me that I will need to replace the 3/4” with a 1” line from the pressure tank to at least the sediment filter. Even if the principle is not re-plumbed with manifold, but certainly extend the 1" to the manifold.) Is there a separate formulation for manifolds with home runs, or is that simply a plumbing layout that unfortunately greatly multiplies the maximum developed distance.
I know I’m asking a lot, but any answers, or pointing me in the direction as to where I can look for answers, would be much appreciated. (At least I try to ask some good ones!)
Gary
If you don’t have city water and are going off a well, would you measure the distance for the farthest/highest fixture off the pressure tank? Also with a 40/60 pressure setting on the tank which would you use for your general pressure?
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
As a DIYer, what if you don't size according to code? In your example, say you connected 3/4" pipe from your water meter instead of the 1" that you're "supposed" to use? Or you use 1/2" pipe when code says 3/4". Are there actual safety concerns with this, or just a reduction in flow?
I ask because I am finishing my basement and want to add a bathroom. I can easily tee off an existing 1/2" pex pipe that is currently going to a hose bib at the back of the house, however code says that I should tee off of 3/4" pipe closer to the water meter since I "can't" supply the entire bathroom with a single 1/2" pipe. This would involve >30' of 3/4" pipe installation vs 10' of 1/2" pipe. If it's a safety concern I will bite the bullet and do it by the book, however I want to minimize complexity if I can.
great explanation and video.
Bravo. great Teacher.
So I'll be ok if I just run 3/4 for everything? That's what I was trying to find out. Didn't want to lose pressure by going with bigger pex
Pex is something new to me, so I have a lot to learn. It all makes sense to me, but I'm going to have to watch this a few more times to make sure I get it 100 percent.
Those fixture numbers, and other information you got from the book
Do I need to buy a book? Where do I get one?
GreatTH-cam channel. Question; when repiping a small house, can I use a small water manifold,say 5 outlets off the main line and use one 1/2” line to an entire bathroom (example), then add another manifold to supply all water faucets to that specific bathroom? Essentially one main manifold and x number of sub manifolds in each required room. Should I use 3/4” or 1/2” for the run to each room? Thanks.
How is this method affected for a well and pump?
I ran 3/4" pex every where. No need to buy 1/2 when I all ready have 3/4". No different fittings. Worked great.
ofc it did you, but its more expensive , use ur brain
@@ridkwngridken3863 not when you buy bulk and all ready have them. use your brain. i was going to run for president against joe and they said I was WAY overqualified.
@@greasezert2228 thats special case, 99 percent people dont have then and dont hva bulk
Would you make a video about abs pipes how many fixture units they can handle
Say theoretically in your diagram prior to the meter is 1/2 or 3/4 on the residential side of the meter someone already put 1 inch? How does this affect our calculations?
Is the 75% method a standard for typical water systems when sizing per UPC code in California?
What a very good video and presentation. Very informative and knowledgeable.
Thank you. I'm glad we could help!
i have a new veismann boiler with a indirect holding tank. pipe size is 1 inch between boiler and holding tank. Currently have a 1/2 inch cold water supply line. is this sufficient for the boiler or should i change it out to 3/4 inch pex or 1 inch pex line