Nice Job! One thing I would add is a few pieces of C channel or even angle iron to cover the winch cable, sort of belt loops on your jeans. This so if it where to break, it would be contained and not become a whip.
Couple suggestions. The pin can be attached to a couple pulleys and redirected off to the side. That way you can pull the pin straight back and out from any direction or height without being in harms way. Then add a clip extension to remove it during transport or add a magnet on the end of the pull cord to keep it up and away when not in use. Your pin mechanism is a good idea, but using a 5/8" dia spring loaded pin like the trailer gate with a 90° handle, would allow you to lock the pin open and with a quick pull of the cord it can be twisted and released to the closed position in an emergency!! This would make it much more user friendly and just as safe. Adding a spread feature to your tail gate is a pretty simple add as well. That way you can unlock, dump and spread stone or dirt without swinging the gate open. Keep an eye on your trailer tongue area where the wench is attached since that is where the majority of the stress from the lift weight is, As well as the rear support frame from the leaf springs to the hinge point. Those 2 areas are the weakest points and may need to be reinforced by boxing in the channel or scabbing some 1/4 plate on edge to prevent bending, bowing or failure over time. Doubtful you'll have an issue, but if the full load weight is to the front of the trailer, then that load lift weight force is all being distributed on the tongue and could potentially bend it. Love the concept and may have to do this myself.
Extremely nice job. A bit over-engineered for what you will use it for. I thnk you will tire of holding out the pin while raising and lowering. The amount of time it will be in the raised position will be minimal and nobody will likely even be close. The cable system by itself is strong enough for the use unless you plan on hauling lead pellets, which would overload the trailer's capacity anyway. I have hung heavy speaker systems in commercial buildings using 1/8" cables. Properly terminated, they are extremely strong. Anyway, if this helps you sleep better at night, more power to you. Really nice craftsmanship. Looks like it was built in a factory.
It’s definitely overkill but hey why not. The safety pin was meant to be “temporary” because I have another design I want to try but who knows when I’ll get to that Lol. Thanks for watching.
Really like what you did there I found a couple of different perspectives on approaching new projects. I truly did enjoy the video, and now for my 2 cents that nobody asked for or has to listen to. An I dea I had while watching as to the safety pin. You could put the safety pin on the winch side of the mast and weld a sheave with a frame onto the pin in such a way that just enough angled tension from the hoist cable that would run in the sheave assembly would pull the pin out enough to clear the holes That way in the event of a cable breakage the pin snaps in a hole and when the winch no longer has tension it inserts into a hole.
I had a 4x8 foldable northern supply trailer I used as a bed in a 5x8 utility trailer I was given and turned it into a dump trailer similar to your build. I made the 4x8 removable so the 5x8 stays original with the rear gate/ ramp operational. I did have the same challenge figuring out the mast. I welded my winch to the mast and also made it removable and height adjustable. Definitely a rat trap if something goes wrong. But the wireless remote gives you the ability to stay back and keep your eye out on others when your operating it.
@@FFRJB1971 I had a 4x8 since 2010. My brother in law gave me a 5x8 in 2020 which is way better built with a removable gate ramp. I only used the 4x8 frame and chucked the rest. I welded the 4x8 to make it rigid to carry a good load without breaking. Now the 5x8 stays stationary while the 4x8 is what tilts on pivot hinge points where the ramp gate goes. If you want to do something similar you can make a platform out of 2x4's and a sheet of plywood you'll have to add at least a 2 foot high walls on three sides and a removable door on the rear. Add some good strong hinges that attach the rear of the 2x4 to the frame of your trailer and you'll need a mast which you can make out of 2 2x4's sandwich together. This is where you can attatch your winch. The rest is hard to put into words. I'd have to show you. Subscribe to my Channel and I'll make a quick video explaining and showing what I mean. Took me a good while to figure it out but every time I go to the dump I get stares and people ask me if I would sell or make them one. I use a small plastic tool box that I fit a 12v lithium battery and the winch controller. Anyhoo let me know if you're interested I can muster a quick video. On a weekend.
You really need to take a look at the safeties on automotive lifts! Even jackstands have a ratcheting mechanism that doesn't require you to hold anything on the way up. It basically consists of spaced "ramps" instead of holes.
OMG! I fell off my chair when it slammed down. Must people would of cut that out but not you. Love your channel and keep them coming. I am pretty sure you were the one who taught me how to weld over 20 years ago. Thank you!!! Best hobby I have ever had. Welding up a locking AR holder for my F250 this weekend.
Two thoughts: One make a holder for your power pack so if you wanted to spread out the gravel one person could pull the truck ahead while you operate the winch. Two I would consider some angle supports to the mast in case you ever dump on a sloped surface. With the trailer angled and the bed up it will likley tip to the side and rip that mast loose. But if you insure your always on level ground not a problem.
Nice trailer. My first thought is the hole should be a slot nor a round hole. That would give the pin plenty of time to penetrate the tower. IMO. Cheers
Cool idea, just change those safety pin holes to slots so the pin can fully engage when moving. I might even widen them a bit to ensure the pin can make it in super easy.
I had just seen ur dump trailer video. turned-out looking great. watch-out for ur fingers.. good for work around home or helping someone to move stuff.
I also have if 5 * 10 York trailer and I'm trying to figure out the best way to create a dump trailer out of it. I don't want to do the piston lift mechanism, I was thinking something along the lines of the scissor lift type of setup better be seen around but your project came out really nice.
For a dump trailer a couple of great additions to think about are an electric bed vibator, and if you live in a climate that gets prolonged sub freezing temps under bed floor heating pads
The only thing I can see that would possibly give you problems. The axle and suspension under that trailer is rated for a certain weight. That’s everything sitting on that axle plus the load you have to make sure you do not put too much weight on the trailer. Are you overdue with the axle and suspension comfortably? If you have ever seen one of those axles snap it will cause a hell of a wreck and not only destroy your trailer, but will destroy whatever you’re pulling it with.
We had 4 tripod jacks building a 12' diameter grain bin that was up about 20' or so. I was the lucky one that was using a crescent wrench instead of a handle. I company should have replaced the handle that we bought the grain bins from. The wrench slipped off the boat type wench. The only thing I remembered was the clicking sound as the tripod and the grain bin came down on me. The next day I still had the impression of a bolt that was in a culvert type building. Nothing broken. I guess the tripod fell against me and then bounced, then I fell down, then the tripod was against the building with the grain bin on top of it. Just one of the close calls I have had. You can never be too careful.
I would have double the holes like an 8 then join them to give the pin more time to insert its self and I would slope the top of the pin so it slides up but not down
Nice upgrade! I also have a 5x10 trailer I wish was a dump. Aside from a hydraulic cylinder or scissor lift, have you thought about changing to a 7-pin connector to use the 12v power from your truck so you shouldn’t need to use a jump box?
I don't think the 7-pin would carry near enough amps to power the winch. Probably would require at least a 50 amp connector with appropriate gauged wiring to the battery.
Wire in 2 4ga wires from the battery And the trucks chassis in the back To a reset breaker at the battery of the truck, back to a 4ga quick disconnect at the back of the truck and on the trailer thats long enough for the trailer to be used and turn. Short connection on the truck longer on the trailer. When the trailer is not in use you can turn the breaker off at the trucks battery if it shorts out then the breaker will flip off 100amps should work for the hoist. You only use it with the truck running.
Pretty cool I've been thinking about the same thing. So I was really curious on how much you spent on that because if it's around 3,000 you can usually pick up a used dump trailer for that much but if it's not that much then maybe it's worth converting a trailer like that. But I did have a thought what if you honed the top of the holes to guide the pain even though you seem you did have success with what you changed on it the beveled high side of the holes ensure success every time ?
Slotted holes on the safety pin but also put a 45 degree chamfer on the top of the pin then it will automatically push the pin out by itself as it travels up but lock in as it travels downward (kinda like how a door knob latches automatically when you close a door) maybe retrofit a door knob latch as your safety pin???
@@wallysworkin823Or something outside the pin, to keep the pin in the the right direction always. What about two short arms like a knee joint? One leg lined to pin, and the other to the bracet. Same princip as the nose landing gear on a plain, (to prevenent it from turn around on the shock absorber in the senter stright above the wheel.) It does not prevent the desired movement of the absorber, only the unwanted fatal turn around of the wheel.
Very nice trailer. What if if you beveled the leading edge of the pin and depth so that you didn't have to hold it as you raised it. It would hold on the down but self release on the up? If that make sense? Just my thought on it.
I just saw you build. I am looking to build the same platform but mine would be a bit linger. 6x14 trailer. What size steel tubing did you use a bottom frame and cross member? Thanks
Slot your safety holes to allow the safety pin time to get in. Does that make sense? If you don't have a milling machine, just drill the same size hole next to your original hole and cut out between. Repeat on all safety holes.. That should work.
Wally, you do nice work I am sure you will get years of use out of it. Down the road if you chose to sell it? You will get most of your money back you have moved past the cheap trailers when you made a dump body type , I have only seen very heavy duty duel axle dump trailers so you have something there that would appeal to many people in the trades and doit them selfers
Naw man the welds overall look good. Bein too hard on yourself. Got good penetration, no porosity, only a slight wander on a few of em. This is a DIY Dump trailer bud. Looks great!
I've never understood why they put the hinge inset from the end of the trailer. This causes the tail of the trailer to extend to the ground when fully raised which then drags the ground as you try to pull forward with the trailer fully raised in order to allow the contents to fully empty???
The winch should be able to reverse and let it down as slow as it goes up the way it is somebody is going to get hurt maybe spend 900 bucks on a hydraulic sissor lift and be done with it less dangerous
I didn’t want the bed any longer than 10’. I shorted the frame to move the hinges forward. Moving the hinges forward takes a considerable amount of load off the winch. Most dump trailers have the hinges 2-3’ from the rear of the trailer.
So tell us, what do you do in your spare time? Very well thought out and EXECUTED! You even got me to like and *SUBSCRIBE* Hey, it don't cost nothing so EVERYONE should *SUBSCRIBE* YES?
You talk quietly like you're trying to hide but don't adjust the audio of your tools and banging hinges together like you're hoping to be found. It's backward logic. Speak up and quiet down.
Nice Job! One thing I would add is a few pieces of C channel or even angle iron to cover the winch cable, sort of belt loops on your jeans. This so if it where to break, it would be contained and not become a whip.
That is one thing I didn’t get to yet.
Couple suggestions.
The pin can be attached to a couple pulleys and redirected off to the side. That way you can pull the pin straight back and out from any direction or height without being in harms way. Then add a clip extension to remove it during transport or add a magnet on the end of the pull cord to keep it up and away when not in use.
Your pin mechanism is a good idea, but using a 5/8" dia spring loaded pin like the trailer gate with a 90° handle, would allow you to lock the pin open and with a quick pull of the cord it can be twisted and released to the closed position in an emergency!! This would make it much more user friendly and just as safe.
Adding a spread feature to your tail gate is a pretty simple add as well. That way you can unlock, dump and spread stone or dirt without swinging the gate open.
Keep an eye on your trailer tongue area where the wench is attached since that is where the majority of the stress from the lift weight is, As well as the rear support frame from the leaf springs to the hinge point. Those 2 areas are the weakest points and may need to be reinforced by boxing in the channel or scabbing some 1/4 plate on edge to prevent bending, bowing or failure over time. Doubtful you'll have an issue, but if the full load weight is to the front of the trailer, then that load lift weight force is all being distributed on the tongue and could potentially bend it.
Love the concept and may have to do this myself.
Extremely nice job. A bit over-engineered for what you will use it for. I thnk you will tire of holding out the pin while raising and lowering. The amount of time it will be in the raised position will be minimal and nobody will likely even be close. The cable system by itself is strong enough for the use unless you plan on hauling lead pellets, which would overload the trailer's capacity anyway. I have hung heavy speaker systems in commercial buildings using 1/8" cables. Properly terminated, they are extremely strong. Anyway, if this helps you sleep better at night, more power to you. Really nice craftsmanship. Looks like it was built in a factory.
It’s definitely overkill but hey why not. The safety pin was meant to be “temporary” because I have another design I want to try but who knows when I’ll get to that Lol. Thanks for watching.
Really like what you did there I found a couple of different perspectives on approaching new projects. I truly did enjoy the video, and now for my 2 cents that nobody asked for or has to listen to. An I dea I had while watching as to the safety pin. You could put the safety pin on the winch side of the mast and weld a sheave with a frame onto the pin in such a way that just enough angled tension from the hoist cable that would run in the sheave assembly would pull the pin out enough to clear the holes
That way in the event of a cable breakage the pin snaps in a hole and when the winch no longer has tension it inserts into a hole.
I had a 4x8 foldable northern supply trailer I used as a bed in a 5x8 utility trailer I was given and turned it into a dump trailer similar to your build. I made the 4x8 removable so the 5x8 stays original with the rear gate/ ramp operational. I did have the same challenge figuring out the mast. I welded my winch to the mast and also made it removable and height adjustable. Definitely a rat trap if something goes wrong. But the wireless remote gives you the ability to stay back and keep your eye out on others when your operating it.
Did you start with a 4x8 or 5x8? Trying to figure out what you meant. I'm wanting to make my 4x8 into a dump
@@FFRJB1971 I had a 4x8 since 2010. My brother in law gave me a 5x8 in 2020 which is way better built with a removable gate ramp. I only used the 4x8 frame and chucked the rest. I welded the 4x8 to make it rigid to carry a good load without breaking. Now the 5x8 stays stationary while the 4x8 is what tilts on pivot hinge points where the ramp gate goes. If you want to do something similar you can make a platform out of 2x4's and a sheet of plywood you'll have to add at least a 2 foot high walls on three sides and a removable door on the rear. Add some good strong hinges that attach the rear of the 2x4 to the frame of your trailer and you'll need a mast which you can make out of 2 2x4's sandwich together. This is where you can attatch your winch. The rest is hard to put into words. I'd have to show you. Subscribe to my Channel and I'll make a quick video explaining and showing what I mean. Took me a good while to figure it out but every time I go to the dump I get stares and people ask me if I would sell or make them one. I use a small plastic tool box that I fit a 12v lithium battery and the winch controller. Anyhoo let me know if you're interested I can muster a quick video. On a weekend.
@pg9112471 planning on reinforcing with steel.
Amazing build!!! Thanks for sharing with everyone
Trailer looks kick ass. Nice job.
You really need to take a look at the safeties on automotive lifts! Even jackstands have a ratcheting mechanism that doesn't require you to hold anything on the way up. It basically consists of spaced "ramps" instead of holes.
OMG! I fell off my chair when it slammed down. Must people would of cut that out but not you. Love your channel and keep them coming. I am pretty sure you were the one who taught me how to weld over 20 years ago. Thank you!!! Best hobby I have ever had. Welding up a locking AR holder for my F250 this weekend.
Haha gotta show the mistakes too.
Two thoughts: One make a holder for your power pack so if you wanted to spread out the gravel one person could pull the truck ahead while you operate the winch. Two I would consider some angle supports to the mast in case you ever dump on a sloped surface. With the trailer angled and the bed up it will likley tip to the side and rip that mast loose. But if you insure your always on level ground not a problem.
Great video! Kudos for adding a saftey mechanism.
Nice trailer. My first thought is the hole should be a slot nor a round hole. That would give the pin plenty of time to penetrate the tower. IMO.
Cheers
I would agree round was just easier at the time.
Brilliant friend!
Cool idea, just change those safety pin holes to slots so the pin can fully engage when moving. I might even widen them a bit to ensure the pin can make it in super easy.
You can always get a scissor lift kit, and maybe a tarp to cover your load.
NICE BUILD.
Subscribed.
Very very nice! Great job!
I had just seen ur dump trailer video. turned-out looking great. watch-out for ur fingers.. good for work around home or helping someone to move stuff.
Definitely have to watch all the limbs, pretty scary when it comes down.
I also have if 5 * 10 York trailer and I'm trying to figure out the best way to create a dump trailer out of it. I don't want to do the piston lift mechanism, I was thinking something along the lines of the scissor lift type of setup better be seen around but your project came out really nice.
nice job
Awesome job
For a dump trailer a couple of great additions to think about are an electric bed vibator, and if you live in a climate that gets prolonged sub freezing temps under bed floor heating pads
I’m in Phoenix so definitely not worried about freezing lol.
@@wallysworkin823 no but if any viewers up north might want to look into box heating
The only thing I can see that would possibly give you problems. The axle and suspension under that trailer is rated for a certain weight. That’s everything sitting on that axle plus the load you have to make sure you do not put too much weight on the trailer. Are you overdue with the axle and suspension comfortably? If you have ever seen one of those axles snap it will cause a hell of a wreck and not only destroy your trailer, but will destroy whatever you’re pulling it with.
We had 4 tripod jacks building a 12' diameter grain bin that was up about 20' or so. I was the lucky one that was using a crescent wrench instead of a handle. I company should have replaced the handle that we bought the grain bins from. The wrench slipped off the boat type wench. The only thing I remembered was the clicking sound as the tripod and the grain bin came down on me. The next day I still had the impression of a bolt that was in a culvert type building. Nothing broken. I guess the tripod fell against me and then bounced, then I fell down, then the tripod was against the building with the grain bin on top of it.
Just one of the close calls I have had.
You can never be too careful.
Scary stuff, glad you are ok!
I would have double the holes like an 8 then join them to give the pin more time to insert its self and I would slope the top of the pin so it slides up but not down
Yes, but then important to prevent the pin from turning around and facing the sloped half, down. You do absolutely not want that to happend.
Nice upgrade! I also have a 5x10 trailer I wish was a dump. Aside from a hydraulic cylinder or scissor lift, have you thought about changing to a 7-pin connector to use the 12v power from your truck so you shouldn’t need to use a jump box?
I don't think the 7-pin would carry near enough amps to power the winch. Probably would require at least a 50 amp connector with appropriate gauged wiring to the battery.
Nice Job. Only thing i would make the tail gate removable easily. They seem to get in the way at the worst times.
I wanted to make it double gates originally but didn’t have another set of hinges. The one piece is a pain so I’ll be changing it.
Wire in 2 4ga wires from the battery
And the trucks chassis in the back
To a reset breaker at the battery of the truck, back to a 4ga quick disconnect at the back of the truck and on the trailer thats long enough for the trailer to be used and turn.
Short connection on the truck longer on the trailer. When the trailer is not in use you can turn the breaker off at the trucks battery if it shorts out then the breaker will flip off 100amps should work for the hoist. You only use it with the truck running.
Good job 👍🏻🇨🇦
Pretty cool I've been thinking about the same thing. So I was really curious on how much you spent on that because if it's around 3,000 you can usually pick up a used dump trailer for that much but if it's not that much then maybe it's worth converting a trailer like that. But I did have a thought what if you honed the top of the holes to guide the pain even though you seem you did have success with what you changed on it the beveled high side of the holes ensure success every time ?
Slotted holes on the safety pin but also put a 45 degree chamfer on the top of the pin then it will automatically push the pin out by itself as it travels up but lock in as it travels downward (kinda like how a door knob latches automatically when you close a door) maybe retrofit a door knob latch as your safety pin???
I didn’t do that because the pin is round, I thought about that but i need to make the pin square so it doesn’t rotate.
@@wallysworkin823Or something outside the pin, to keep the pin in the the right direction always. What about two short arms like a knee joint? One leg lined to pin, and the other to the bracet. Same princip as the nose landing gear on a plain, (to prevenent it from turn around on the shock absorber in the senter stright above the wheel.) It does not prevent the desired movement of the absorber, only the unwanted fatal turn around of the wheel.
The better option on the pin would be a cam lock like used on wreckers to lock the L arms from sliding out on mine it was a 3/4 cam lock pin
Try a good quality "Flux Core" wire for mig welding, it will not blow away in the wind.
Very nice trailer. What if if you beveled the leading edge of the pin and depth so that you didn't have to hold it as you raised it. It would hold on the down but self release on the up? If that make sense? Just my thought on it.
That would work if the pin was square. Right now the pin can rotate.
I just saw you build. I am looking to build the same platform but mine would be a bit linger. 6x14 trailer. What size steel tubing did you use a bottom frame and cross member? Thanks
Very nice job, trailer looks very nice. What size tube did you for the upper frame you made?
It’s all 2x3 .083
@@wallysworkin823thank you sir.
Longer holes. Best bet is to lift it and use the safety pin Always.
What you could do is maybe cut it at a 45 and it could possibly ratchet on the way up but quickly engage in a hole on the way down
We talked about that but since the pin is round we were worried it would rotate.
@@wallysworkin823 if you slotted the pin housing and drilled the pin for a barrel pin it would have no choice but to not rotate
Got to think, if it had a load and fell without your pin would be much more violant on your 1 axle trailer, probably snap it in half
Slot your safety holes to allow the safety pin time to get in. Does that make sense? If you don't have a milling machine, just drill the same size hole next to your original hole and cut out between. Repeat on all safety holes.. That should work.
How about adding links to the sources for the rollers and latches?
How much would you charge to make one if I got a trailer a 12 feet or 14 trailer?
Wally, you do nice work I am sure you will get years of use out of it. Down the road if you chose to sell it? You will get most of your money back you have moved past the cheap trailers when you made a dump body type , I have only seen very heavy duty duel axle dump trailers so you have something there that would appeal to many people in the trades and doit them selfers
Thanks! My friend that builds trailers wants to copy it (I was the ginny pig 😂) We also do not see too many small dump trailers around here.
Naw man the welds overall look good. Bein too hard on yourself. Got good penetration, no porosity, only a slight wander on a few of em. This is a DIY Dump trailer bud. Looks great!
Thanks!
Great execution but the trailer axle is probably rated for 3500lb . How much weight did you add to the original trailer?
The axle is 3500 pounds. My capacity is right around a ton. I haven’t weighed the trailer empty yet to know exactly
I feel like you live near me in Glendale AZ. XD
Close enough, 43av and Paradise.
@@wallysworkin823 It looks like it! I'm off of 47th & T Bird. Keep it up sir, great content!
I've never understood why they put the hinge inset from the end of the trailer. This causes the tail of the trailer to extend to the ground when fully raised which then drags the ground as you try to pull forward with the trailer fully raised in order to allow the contents to fully empty???
Moving it forward a little takes a large amount of load off the winch, it’s easier to lift. It’s a balance of not going too far so it doesn’t drag.
The winch should be able to reverse and let it down as slow as it goes up the way it is somebody is going to get hurt maybe spend 900 bucks on a hydraulic sissor lift and be done with it less dangerous
It does go down nice and slow. The safety “pin” is just incase the cable breaks. I agree the hydraulics would be safer.
Since you added so much weight in steel to a single axle trailer, how much payload do you actually have?
About a ton safety. I have put 1.5 tons in it so far with no issues.
@@wallysworkin823
Did you swap out the axle/springs?
Kept them the same for now.
👍👍👍
25:19 Danger, Will Robinson, Danger!!
Did you shorten the length for strength?
I didn’t want the bed any longer than 10’. I shorted the frame to move the hinges forward. Moving the hinges forward takes a considerable amount of load off the winch. Most dump trailers have the hinges 2-3’ from the rear of the trailer.
So tell us, what do you do in your spare time? Very well thought out and EXECUTED! You even got me to like and *SUBSCRIBE* Hey, it don't cost nothing so EVERYONE should *SUBSCRIBE* YES?
This is what I do in my free time lol. Thanks for watching!!
Everything was good except for the forklift operator smoking with the propane tank in his back
😂
You made testing the safety lock way to over complicated. Just raise it like normal the pull the free spin pin on the wench.
You talk quietly like you're trying to hide but don't adjust the audio of your tools and banging hinges together like you're hoping to be found. It's backward logic. Speak up and quiet down.
ce serais mieux en francais!!!!!!!!!!!!