Are Dump Trailers a Rip-Off?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
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Simple fix for the Moritz trailer doors opening when not wanted. Drill a hole in the bottom of the pin and put a locking pin through it to prevent it from popping up.
A couple of things to be aware of if you're looking at a trailer with gravity down. 1. Saves you battery which is good. 2. You can't control the speed it goes down. When empty it goes down faster than a power down trailer...This is a good things. If you need to lower it with a load still in the trailer then watch out because it comes down FAST! This is bad. The paint/powder coat sucks on all of them (all trailer really) if you live in a climate that puts salt on the road in the winter. The only way to go to prevent that is galvanized. Dave (in salty Ontario, Canada)
Thanks for adding buddy.
My dump trailer has gravity down, and it came with a valve that you can adjust you can make it come down as slow as you want loaded or empty.
I have a midsota trailer and they prime before they paint and use better paint 3 winters and my trailer still looks good. Lot of powder coating the steel is not primed. Mine is also gravity down and I’ve never had it not come done down to -15. Midsota has a one piece 7 gauge floor plus a scissors lift and mine has the hydraulic jack. The moritz jack still isn’t great.
You missed the MOST important feature. How high does it dump. Some dump at 45 degree. Others 55 degrees. H&H and Hull dump at least 55d maybe more. If you don't want to shovel wet dirt or mud while a line of haulers are questioning you family background get the deepest angle. I also bought one that had the axles in the middle wih a long overhang. VERY BAD. Trailer whipped and wouldn't dump well and the frame bent from the tires to the tailgate(company paid to beef up runners). The paint is always a pain, but I lined one of my trailers with 1/2 inch CCA plywood and it still looked good 10 years later when I traded it for a larger trailer with thicker steel body. Thanks for your video. Dump trailers are wonderful. I've owned several but I think they are definitely improved thru the years. I had a remote control that was wonderful and safer around electric wires.
Galvanized trailers are yet another upgraded option against rust. $$$ everything costs something. 😊
I think that could be the case for my next one Harold!
@@ohiowoodburner You should be able to order one raw or partially assembled if you find a good deal on hot dip galvanizing. The guys who just do galvanize can lay it on thick if you prefer, and they can tell you if any cavities would benefit from better liquid zinc access.
Another important item is dump angle. Firewood and crushed stone will come out easy but if you are dumping loam, or mulch you will want a dump trailer with a steep angle.
Very true. Prob one of those telescoping ones would be in order.
Good review and pinpoint. Your Griffin trailer is still in a condition to save it; sandblast, a heavy primer, good paint, brake/suspension job, grommets everywhere than spraying with antirust, then it will last you for years. It still worth it. 👍👍👍
Thanks, Joe! I have no need for a trailer nor use for a trailer, but I love the comparative study of experience with both. There is no substitute, and i think everybody appreciates that. It s something that you absolutely can not get from a sales brochure, you can only get it from a person. And that [non-sales] person has to be willing and able to take the time to explain it, as You have done here, superbly and succinctly. Love it!
Thanks for the very nice post Pneumatic. Most my reviews are from a non expert viewpoint and I think it is a valid one for sure!
Maybe add a safety latch to the top of gate somewhere in case the stock one pops open. I’d probably drill and bolt it on so it lasts longer than self tapping screws. Dab your bolts and drill holes with rust oleum so it doesn’t rust after installation
I had considered that. I need to do something to keep me from worrying LOL
Put a small ratchet strap around the doors boss
Drill a hole underneath the latch and put a hitch pin clip so it doesn't pop up.
Thanks for this comparison video. I hope to purchase one of these some day. I would recommend that if someone buys one new that they look into taking it to someone who can do some sort of preventive rust proofing. It’s amazing how fast trucks and trailers seem to rust out in the Midwest.
very true john!
Get some fluid film and spray it yourself.
@@1768ify thanks. I had not heard of this stuff but I will have to try it out on my truck.
simple fix for your trailer doors is to drill a hole in that spring loaded pin and install a lock pin or cotter pin while its locked in the down position would be easy to do and give you peace of mind
Mine came with cotter pin locks.
100% on the tarp. Don't even talk yourself into just getting one later. Just get it right away. 2 rams definitely better if you ever haul uneven loads. It prevents twisting. Lastly, you are 100% spot on when it comes to the door locks.
I would weld a latch at the top of the doors on the new trailer. After driving roll off trucks for 20 years I learned to never trust a single pin and if the lock has a spring then get rid of it ASAP. Locks at top and bottom or no haul, no exceptions.
Good idea. Thanks buddy
The pin lock gate works great.... in the sales lot. Under load, the trailer will flex like a wet noodle. The pin will come free of the receiver hole. The cam lock is a much better way to close a gate when hauling these heavier loads. MTP, take it for what it’s worth. Good video! Thank you...
Hi Joe - it's Big Rodders in Ireland. Trailers of that nature over here are invariably galvanised. The larger tractor drawn models are powder coated. We have a lot of salt on the roads during winter time.
You don’t want full length welds holding the floor on. For multiple reasons. 1) it would take forever to build and you’d warp the crap out of it. 2) steel needs to have some sorta flex. 3) if any moisture does get into the unwelded area it can not escape.
Nice look at a few different trailers.
I was told that in PA, you only need a CDL if the Combined Gross Weight of the truck and trailer exceeded 28,000 lbs you would need a class A CDL, that would mean that if your trailer was 10,000 lb GVW, it only applies if your truck is rated at 18,000lb GVW. I don't think any truck in the one ton class hits that mark. But the issue come in if they rated the GVWR at over 28k, then if your trailer is over 10k you need the CDL.
My dump trailer is rated at 14,000 lbs, my truck is rated at 8800 GVW with a GVWR (with trailer, of 22,000.
So my rig doesn't hit the mark where I'd need a CDL. The PA DMV website breaks it down a bit better.
I no longer live in PA, but travel there regularly so I keep up on what goes on there.
If I'm going that far with a loaded trailer, and will be weighing in at my max, I'd have to seriously consider not doing it in a pickup truck. It might do the job but I'd rather not put that kind of wear and tear on my own truck.
When it comes to dual rams, the big issue is if one ram fails under load. it almost always bends the crap out of the frame and/or box. With one big ram, if it fails, it just goes down. A buddy was cleaning up from a flood a few years ago with his dual ram trailer, he loaded it to the max with mud and debris from where his creek overflowed and the right ram dropped suddenly when he was dumping the load. it was on a slight incline to one side and when the ram dropped, the trailer twisted dropping the box on top of the tires on one side. he did what he could to get it back in place but it was bent. Worse yet he failed to notice that even after getting the box empty and pushed sort of back in place, the one tire was rubbing the fender and that blew out on the way home too. That was a tube frame and box but the tubing was pretty thin compared to mine.
My trailer has a C channel frame with 8 inch sides and 6" cross members on 12" centers with the box having 3/16" wall 2x3 framing under the two piece floor. The front wall is bolted in.
I bought that trailer new in 1999 and will probably have it forever. When I ordered it I specified exactly what I wanted and how it was to be built. I had been using an older, late 80's model and knew what worked for me and what were the weak points of the old trailer.
Another buddy has one with torsion suspension but after 5 years there's not much suspension left. The rebound element in those axles is rubber, and rubber rots and gets hard, or takes a set and leave the trailer sitting lower than it should. With springs, the worst thing I'll ever have to deal with is having to swap out the springs but after 24 years mine still look great.
The paint on mine was terrible, it had rust at all the seams after about three years. 6 years into owning it i sanded the bad spots and brush painted it with a Rustolastic from MAB. It lasted another 8 years or so, two years ago I got tired of looking at rust so i sand blasted the whole trailer, top bottom and all sides, inside and out. I pulled the axles, set it on a set of stands i made and sprayed the whole trailer with black epoxy bed liner that i had bought at auction. I put it on thick. I then serviced the wheel bearings and springs, I replaced the wheel bearings, grease, and put in some new spring bushings and it should be good for another 24 years. The tires are 10 ply LT tires, the original ST tires dry rotted away in three years. Its on its third set of tires which were new last summer.
Came here to say basically the same thing. Common misunderstanding, don't necessarily need a CDL over 10k in PA
Great review on your dump 💩 trailers...The main reason I found out why most trailer manufacturers do 9990# instead of 10k is for liability insurance. Most people don't know and neither did I. But surely found out after being summons for a Dot. audit. All trailers 10,000# and over have to have liability insurance on them. If a trailer because detached from the towing vehicle, general liability won't cover damages to someone elses property 🤯
#9990 is the limit to be legal in Pennsylvania without a CDL too
Good to know Doyle. Thanks buddy
Very well put! Great information when looking to buy a tipping trailer. The one other thing I would consider when living in a winter season climate is having a telescopic lift for the trailer rather than an under body lift, which is subject to all the road salt and slush in the winter season.. Again a very helpful video. Thank you.!👍
Great video Joe: After having a dump trailer in a winter environment- I would only buy a hot dipped galvanized dump trailer. I bought a Diamond C trailer which has really good paint. After a year it was rusting. I switched to dump trucks now, but I will be buying a N&N galvanized dump trailer. N&N make lightweight and heavy weight dump trailers. Any new trailers I buy will be galvanized. Personally, I would try to salvage your older trailer by sand blasting, priming, and painting.
Good insight Rich. I think the Griffin will be a yard trailer for now on.
A neglected maintenance effort is to sprat paint any scratches and dings - weekly! Plus power wash at least weekly.
In Texas a new trailer can be registered at a reduced GVRW but only when titled new. This is good when you need volume more than weight.
Difference between torsion and springs. Spring axles will generally always have all 4 wheels on contact on uneven surfaces. Torsion axles are independent. Going over a deep rut or pot hole will allow a wheel (or two) to temporarily leave contact with the ground putting the extra weight on the other tire/axle. I've arm a heavily loaded torsion axle trailer break an axle under this condition.
Ya I have rented Moritz with torsion. I would never buy one. So easy to over load a single tire!
4 piece constriction usually has a heavier gauge floor and sides are lighter gauge. As far as your pin on the tailgate, of there's room, drill a ¼" hole below the plate and use a hitch pin to keep it from popping out.
If the side of the trailer flexes or leans that will also raise the door up on the end where the pin is. I am looking at it from a physics perspective and not from experience.
To test the stability of the sidewall you could have the doors sticking out away from the trailer and pull down on it
If the door is not stabilized you could fasten it down some way.
A different way would be to have a backup fastener such as a chain going across that would hold if the pin came out.
Good job with the instructional video.
I had thought of that to where the pin sorta walks it way up until the tapered end of the pin works it way out. I need to drill it for a cotter pin etc.
@@ohiowoodburner
I don't know how it happened but a retaining pin would be a good remedy. Don't use a cotter pin. There are other pins that you have probably seen with the big circle that snaps open-and-shut.
I expect the manufacturer would be interested in this problem they created. Wouldn't they be liable? Shouldn't they start building better trailers? I expect it would be a very small cost for them to do better. Tell them you are on TH-cam.
I was told by a dealer for trailers that torsion is only good for on road use, and last about 20 years. If you were taking a trailer across a field to gather wood, springs are much better. Spring suspension is supposed cheaper to replace.
If you look up how torsion axles spring, you’ll see that this is true. The “spring” is four blocks of rubber that a square inner axle shaft twists inside of. Rubber dries out, cracks, fails.
The last trailer I purchased was from a general contractor. It was rusted because contractors use them for dumpsters and leave them uncovered, The rain soaks the drywall and construction dirt and it just rots away. We have a full fab shop so I picked it up cheap, yanked the bed and welded in new steel and used POR on the entire thing. I would say I put 2k into it. The nice part with a trailer is in PA they are only 40 bucks a year registration for a 10000 GVW. The next trailer we purchase is going to be a hot dipped galvanized trailer with a grapple from Metavic. Loading the mini ex into the back and unloading it to load wood is a pita not to mention having to go back after dumping the wood to get the machine.
The thind we all learned in days gone by. Great comparison. Loosing any load with company logo, is completely unacceptable.
Today's day and time , we need to look at and determine if this product is 75 % worth it .
Joe you have came a long way removing you position in a corporate field. To wood sales, and this you tube thing, I only wish I had your " JUST DO THE THANG ".
EXCELLENT VIDEO , keep all of us in you tube up to par..
The key to longevity with a dump trailer is leave the box about 1/3 of the way when not in use . No water can pool causing major corrosion issues . Good and interesting vid Joe ! Cheers
Just crank the jack
Paint problem starts with prep. If they sand blast and then use an etching primer before final paint. Or go to an epoxy paint.
The Griffin has the better frame design... tube blows i-beam out of the water on flex and weight. All the guys that say "but my I-beam will last forever", Yeah it will.. after the rest of your trailer rusted out so what's the point?
Also like the dual pistons on the Griffin.. smart. No wracking if the load shifts while up. Its too bad they had such a problem with rust. I am sure by now they have fully addressed it (if they're still in business).
The Moritz Does have the better floor..
You're right that bent up sides are stronger, BUT Moritz uses all 7ga floors on their trailers. They had to weld on lighter sides for weight savings since they used heavy i-beam.
The Griffin is simply the more serviceable trailer afaic. If you used a "rust converter" on the whole thing, then lightly painted with a black or grey primer, then hit the underside with Fluid Film and you'd be all set. That, and add a proper heavy trailer jack and maybe a 'wet-bolt' kit for the shackle to grease it.
As far as "gravity down"... that is the preferred system as it uses half the power from the battery. But most guys who live up north don't use their dump trailers in the salty cold. For you it seems like an okay fit. Dirt work would rather make more dump cycles in a day. Thanks for the video!
If you step in and stop that rust while it's still just on the surface, you'll save that Griffin for years of solid life 👍~
The trailer twists a little going down the road. As it twists, the pin drags on the side of the hole and slides up a little. It is, at that point, against the side of the hole still, in a bind too tight for the spring to push it down. Then, the trailer twists again, pushing the pin up a little more. Eventually, the tapered part gets to the hole and it slides all the way up. Put a pin in the pin under the hole or in the door above the pin. Good review.
Good job on this video Joe. I do think having the seam down the middle is more prone to cracking from dumping heavy items in. Having floor welded along the edge allows for a better weld joint and it does not allow big heavy objects to hit the weld joint directly.
Stitch welds under the trailer are common for 2 reasons. When you weld, the heated area shrinks causing added stress and major warping on light gauge materials. It also would add a lot of extra labor and production cost in welding those joints solid. Stitch welds can be found on all kinds of things, without compromising structural integrity. It is a good idea to caulk between stitches if corrosion is a concern... Like road salt
I agree that the I beam is better for the frame. PJ trailers used to advertise tube frames until they started having problems with cracking. Now they went to beam frames. I believe @Worlds Okayest Farmer did a video on his experience on this too.
My next dump trailer will be galvanized with hydraulic jack. Gooseneck most likely due to how much better they tow... that is unless I find a good deal on a f450 4x4 with a 12 ft dump bed first 😊
Take care Joe, hope to see you in Booneville
Excellent post Chris. Thanks for the crash course in metal work!!! I prob won't be in Booneville but def at the PB. I want to talk to you about a spring show at my place next May.
Fully galvanized trailers are the only way to go. Love the new wood yard.
Have a great day.
Thanks Howie!!
A dual ram dump trailer had its lock pin fail & came out. We could not find it. The one working ram raised the load easy! Because the pivot is wide and don't Jam, it works I seen this myself.
I didn't agree with you on the smell of oak (love it) until I got a sinus infection. Man that made it smell horrible. Cherry and maple too. But you're pretty spot on with your assessment of the trailers. This was a well thought out and informative review.
Depends on the variety of Oak. Some red oak varieties smell AWFUL.
@@DaveW74TVN Red oak is red oak here. I'm not sure about elsewhere. But words usually mean something. I'm at a loss how red oak is red oak here, but somewhere else it's red oak actually means piss elm... But ok.
I had a Big Tex 7x14 14k dump trailer. The quality was closer to your cheaper trailer. I sold it a few years ago, and I really miss having it. I intended to make money with it and never really did, but it was quite handy just having it around. I would love to have some aluminum ramps on my car hauler.
Joe, I just want to correct one thing. In Pennsylvania you only need a CDL if you are over 26000 pounds in combination. I have 14k pound trailer and registered as a class 8 and I come in below a class A CDL.
Quick tip: take some silicone caulk (you can get it in a dark color) and caulk those gaps between the underside beams and bottom sheet steel. It'll keep water and road debris from getting between them. Many trailer manufactures do this
Great review of your trailers, Joe….informative and thorough! 👍🏼
Glad you enjoyed it RG!
The cam lock is much better! It's always secured.. The one with the pin, you can drill a hole in it & put a flat washer on it & put an R key or clevis pin to make sure it doesn't open.. Also the one with just the pin, if there's weight Against the door, you can't pop the pin, you have to hammer it out! & eventually it will create an egg shape in the hole & if you haul sand or fine material it will leak out! Love your video's! You take your time & speak thoroughly & clearly & explain things where people can understand, & if you don't know, you don't let your pride get in the way of that, you let people know that too! Thank you for sharing your video's!
GOD BLESS YOU!!
PRAISE THE LORD!! AMEN!!
😘🙏🏻❤️📖🙌🏻🕊
Nice video Joe. Elaine from Canada here, my husband asking “ what are you watching?”. I say a dump trailer comparison video. He says, “Whaaat?” Ha ha ha. You explained a lot of good points, what a huge asset to your equipment inventory. Have a great week.
haha!!! Thanks Elaine!!
hi i would recommend looking in to some Fluid Film fir the rust . it will stop it , john
I have heard of it but I think this trailer is past the point of no return John
@@ohiowoodburner hi that trailer still has alot life in it , it wont get rid of the rust but it will stop further rusting , or a diesel oil mix , i use a 50/50 mix on anything i think may rust , i have it in a old spray bottle , ever look at the residue around a diesel pump when your filling up with gas , . old waist oil and a roller does wonders also , your old and a bit rusty and we are not giving up on you , lol john
I am a huge fan of telescopic dump trailers. They go to a much higher angle then yours and dumps stay in a smaller area.👍
We have a local place that specializes in redoing trailers. I see their adds alot. $1600-$2200 for all new lights/wiring harness plus they will sandblast and repaint. Their slogan is Why buy new? We will make yours better then new!
I've seen those but never considered getting one. Seems this style is ideal for firewood at least.
the dual ram is important for stability and weight distribution. With your relatively light loads you may not need that but try dumping a load of soil.
Very informative video. Next time you’re in the market for a trailer check out N&N trailers. They are made of galvanized material, no paint & hopefully much less corrosion. Probably more expensive but with better quality comes more money. 👍Have a great day.
Most state's are 26,001 lb before you need a Commercial license, at that weight it would require at least a "Class B" certification. Once you get over 33K and/or have Combination vehicle's (Semi's etc.) you need a "Class A" certification. There's also an "Air-break's" certification if equipped, anything under 10K (9999 lb or less) total doesn't require any certification, just the regular "Class C" license. Didn't know about Pennsylvania having the exception.
Thanks for posting Ray. I am not totally up on the law but know i am compliant here!
I got into a Bwise 15400 last year. The dealer claims that 26,000 combination is the rule in PA. I've also been told 10,000 is the limit. He provided me with a flow chart that the state provided him showing the 26,000 rule. What you need to get to that is a truck that is 10,000 gvw. A 1 ton puts you over the 26k rule. It is a really nice tool in the arsenal.
@@markw2266 That sounds about right compared to NC law, 10K or less in a single vehicle is the normal Class 1-4, Class 5 being up to 26K (but not over). Class 6-8 requiring a Commercial certification on your license. A or B depending on the weight and/or amount of vehicle's and breaks type. Basically it's 16K per axle although some axle's are rated for +26K witch would require a Class "B" certification.
If I can afford it, I would buy more expensive trailer because I like the frame. I also prefer the Leaf spring! Both bounce because they don't have shock absorber to take care of the springs!
Plus a leaf spring puts equal weight on each axle. Yes the torsion ball suspension is much less repairs but they do NOT equalize the load between axles unless the trailer is perfectly level. I have had both and have blown tires cost more than broken springs over the life of the trailer.
Nice video. To clarify, you don’t need a CDL in PA to drive a trailer that’s over 10,000 gvwr. You only need a CDL if your GROSS COMBINED WEIGHT RATING of your truck plus your trailer is 26,001 or over. You can have a 16,000 gvwr trailer and a f 250, 10,000 gvwr and be legal without a CDL.
Not sure if you will see this. Missed it when it came out. I would dtill some holes and insert a hitch pin with haitpin clip to keep closed. Anyway ejoyed the video. Thanks Earl
On the Moritz tailgates I would get some way to lock that pin down. Drill a hole just above the spring and put a hairpin cotter through it when hauling on the highway, Leave it in the pump box the rest of the time.
Great job showing and telling about them dump trailers. have a good one and thanks again for telling what you know about them dump trailers see ya next time see ya bye.
I have a griffin also. I had it sandblasted and repainted about three or 4 years ago and don’t pull it in the winter. Ours are about the same age. I like mine but the powder coat was bad too. I would never buy a powder coat trailer again. I would buy a galvanized
I think I'm about the same opinion Bill but the galvanized was too pricey for me
Thanks Joe !! Great info ! Thanks for pointing out the many differences……many ways to go, many things to consider. Nothing beats user experience! 👍👏🇺🇸 Rick
Thanks Rick!
Gravity down is a feature as well. Its usually a add on with power down. Gravity down doesnt use your battery which means you get more dumps in a day
You are close on the GVWR and CDL requirements, but not quite right for PA at least. You only need the CDL if your combined GCWR with the trailer and truck is over 26,000lbs. The 10k lb requirement only comes into play if you cross that 26k lb mark. Then its a difference between a class A and B license.
Just ideas. Oil the top of the frames. A little goes along way in preserving steel. The tailgate opening- drill the tip of the pin and where the pin goes below the base-plate add a Clovis pin while transporting. Cheap safety and insurance.
Spray your trailers in and out with fluid film or a mixture of drain oil and Kerosene. Been running trailers daily since 1988. I tried it all. The oil stopped the rust. Not pretty. Not clean. But easy to apply. And it worked. Look into brake maintenance and adjustment. The magnets grind down and need to be replaced.
A solution for your rust problem is relatively easy. Rustoleum sells a RUST CONVERTER in the spray can section, about 6 bucks, you spray it on rust, its flat black, and it converts the rust to iron phosphate and will not rust again. About 6 cans will do the whole trailer and frame- just where its rusty. Then, machinery maintenance painting with a brush. Buy a quart of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Red primer, some painters coveralls and painters gloves, a quart of mineral spirits for thinner and cleaning, wood handle "chip brushes" Home depot calls them; (2 or 3 bucks each, buy 2 or 3 inch size.) A spray can of gray automotive primer, and a quart of Gloss Black Rustoleum. Use a 1 quart paint pot, 1/4 full, 1 tsp thinner, Just slap it on. Make sure its covered good. Sometimes you need to reach back with your brush and smooth out a run or sag. Even if its not great, your trailer won't rust away. Maybe your wife can do it. They know how to use hair spray and fingernail polish. I bet she would do a better job!
Own a 14' x 7' ED Trailer. It cost me [2 years ago] $450 for a 5yd dump of 1-1/2" clean rock [$1350/15yd delivered]. I just hauled 15yds, 3yds at a time from the exact same rock pit @ $18.50/yd for 1-1/2" clean rock. It cost me $36.50/round trip in fuel ....$460 for 15yds Versus $1350.....Yeah, I like the dump trailer.
ps........ Some things I have learned using it: 1) The battery usage per dump lift is enormous. [You will only get 4-5 dumps per fully charged battery [lead-acid]. The onboard charger will NOT recharge a low battery overnight, you need a REAL battery charger [using the 15amp charging position, the 2amp setting will not recharge the battery fully overnight if it is drained]. Your truck-to-trailer lighting/power wire hook up will NOT recharge the dump trailer battery in a short time either. 2) The hydraulic fluid [ATF] reservoir will overflow out of the fill cap, due to back pressure in the cylinder[s] if you lower the dump trailer without using battery power. [My ED trailer has THREE buttons, Up-powered, Down-powered, Down with gravity-no-power]. There is a video showing why/how the air pressure builds up in the "un-powered" hydraulic cylinders, as they are lowering; causing the backflow/overflow into the Fluid Reservoir, so I won't go into that. I put a plastic bag under my reservoir as an overflow berm, in case my battery dies and I MUST lower the dump by gravity. If you do not have the "Down by gravity" switch on your model, you will need jumper cables, and/or a second battery to lower your deck if it gets stuck "up" and the battery dies.
I can feel your fear regarding the doors open. When you are buying a device - in first place it should do what it’s meant to do. And a trailer should bring load safely from A to B. Nothing less. And if it doesn’t - because it’s losing the load - it fails in the main purpose. Secondary purpose - like being specially comfortable - is useless if primary purpose is not fulfilled. I think paint is secondary, doors are primary.
But changing the doors closing system might be cheaper than derosting and panting.
Well said Lumberyard!!
What about the aluminum dump trailers how do they hold up?
No clue on aluminum. Galvanized are much more pricey
I would drill a hole on the pin of the grey trailer and put a hitch pin in it this way it can't pop up. It's an extra step opening the doors but it will give you a little piece of mind. Just a thought
I have thought of that. I would have to remove the pin but it would be worth the effort. Stay cool this week.!!
thoughtful overview. I run a similar trailer daily and STILL learned a ton from your video. much appreciated
So many great ones... Better with not straight steel... higher sides 😊
Nice video, try to find a heavy duty and long U-Bolt and drill holes on top of each door of the Moritz and all you have to do is drop it on the holes to make sure those doors don't swing open, or make one to go at least 10 inch down and have a strong magnet to hold it so it don't jump off the trailer.
Torsion suspension is a time proven application but it is also the reason your gate opens. Think Torsion? Twisting allows the slave lock to rise above its sleeve. Add cam locks. It's cheap to do and will be your forever answer. Hope that helps.
Joe, you are original and down to earth. Enjoy watching, keep it up, from South Africa.
Thanks for the nice post Sagren!
On the Mortiz trailer, you could add a padlock type clasp across the two doors. I'm sure there's some other locking options you could easily have welded on. But I agree, it seems the cam lock system is definitely the better of the two. Maybe it's got some drawbacks, but I don't know what they might be.
Just seems the cam locks are the standard. Thanks JC
Nice. I would probably caulk those seams underneath with Big Stretch if it were mine. Im sure there is movement but i think it would hold up and things would spray off much cleaner.
Take that Griffin trailer off the road... take off the wheels and go over it with Rust Converter..
Then give it some actual Paint when done. Then new reflector tape and you will be good to go.
These aren't cars w/thin sheet metal.. if you just tend to that rust now, you can bring that trailer up to New and it'll basically stay that way.
Be good to yourself... don't let that trailer rust to cr@p just because it had poor powder coating.. protect it and use it with pride 👍
Solar pannels recharging my batteries. Works great. Always charging while they sit. Definately agree box frames rust out first. Thats where the oil spray stops the rust.
I own a moritz I do not trust the back door i've had it just pop open When i've had a load on it . The aluminum ramps are a great selling point I run a 10,000 pound excavator up Them..
I live in the salt belt also my other trailers I put a rust preventative oil spray It works, my last trailer was almost 10 years old, very little rust.
Interesting to hear it has happened to someone other than me. Ugh!
A good pressure wash and a couple coats of tremclad or POR15 in the spring and a coat of fluid film each fall goes a long way
I live in PA. The 10,000 lbs is NOT "CDL" -- You need a FMSCA Medical Cortication to drive anything "commercial" up to 26,001 lbs I believe. If you're over that, then you need CDL.
This knowledge is unfortunately actually sort of hard to come by. The websites have tons of words, but very hard to find the important facts that matter.....We run a landscaping company & it's been a royal pain to deal with the "fine print" on these things the first few years.
Anyways, the "Medical Cert" costs like $150-ish @ a certified place, such as "AFC Urgent Care", or some Primary Doctors offer. You just need to ask, or search it online. It is a physical. It's nothing fancy. Easy to get.
The CDL is entirely different matter. Much more involved. Also requires the "physical" you would get for Medical Cert, but there are extra steps of course.
All good info. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and info with the rest of us. Keep us hard working folk on the up and up. Be well brother!
if it's not galvanized take 50% diesel 50% ATF or used motor oil mix. put in pump sprayer and spray it in the summer and in the fall all underneath and everywhere's.
Like LTD has said already. User experience is key. In my case i am not in a place to afford a dump trailer yet however my Home-built (Ford F250) trailer has been awesome..
I think your trailer is pretty cool Dan. I see a bunch of those out this way
@@ohiowoodburner I have 7 pickup box trailers.
Well, I own that many.
You know the saying, "if you want more friends, get a trailer", well, that must be me.
I do have 3 just for scrap iron/metals.
Good video !!
All my trailers were free. I took care of them and detailed them out before selling them and got nearly all my money back. One simple detail you didnt mention is how important to recharge battery immediately after use. They will last 5 years or so if you keep them charged every night. I also had mine charge off the truck and the newer 31 sized deep cycles would be worth the investment(if you have the room.
Tralers are useful. I've had a bunch but the dumpers were the biggest labor saver. That unloading wood job works better with a dumper. I sold enough black dirt bythe load to pay for one one summer . I even had an excavating company that called me for dirt and gravel deliveries in places they couldn't get their big trucks in(do to overhead wires and trees.) I had a remote control I used when too close to wires. Made me feel safer not touching the control box.
A chain bolted or welded would be a simple safety catch for the tail gate.
I bought a BriMar maybe 13 years ago. Two years old it got painted. It's been painted a half dozen times now.
Also have a PJ 7 x 16 Gooseneck. Excellent trailer. It is a 2019. Excellent paint job. Scissor Lift. I do firewood , Dirt, Rock, Equipment.
He is right though, Dump Trailers You get what you pay for.
Thanks for sharing Greg
Doing sine research for some dump trailers I'm looking at and this was the best video I've seen yet, well done 👏
PSA! as always, check your states laws but as far as I know if your not hauling for pay aka (commercial ) a CDL isn’t needed.
I am sick and tired of the CDL discussion because I rarely ever hear anything about private vs for hire hauling.
Same deal here in NC Joe. 10k+ u need a Provisional CDL. But if u have a Farm and run a Farm tag on your Truck you don't have to have a CDL here. There are loopholes so check into it if u can. Firewood may be a Forestry exemption.
Moritz using the spring pin on the tailgate is disappointing. The cam style is way better, easy to unlock with the load pushing on the door. The three piece construction isn’t really better if the seams on the 4 piece are 100% welded. Torsion axles seldom fail but they are big $$ when they do.
A scissor lift has more moving parts that require grease and tend to seize up for lack of love. And they are heavy.
The box tube construction should be stronger stiffer better. But they will rust out faster if there are any penetrations.
A galvanized trailer is the best way to go. Paint always fails.
I looked at the galvanized trailers and they price was out of my league! Thanks Dana
@@ohiowoodburner definitely not a cheap date.
I had a trailer that had a gvwr of 15,000 pounds I used to pull until I found out the laws of combination tags. My truck was rated for 9.000 my trailer was rated for 15,000 my tag would’ve been for 24,000 pounds. The sticker would’ve been a class 8 and would’ve cost me $450 a year.
Pa trailer law is 10,001 pounds or over you need combination tags on the tow vehicle. Combination tag is the combined gvwr of the tow vehicle added to the gvwr of the trailer. The combined weights you need the appropriate weight class sticker in the windshield.
Must have for any firewood business.
Totally agree Nick!
I still have my big C60 1966 Chevrolet 12 ft flat dump truck. Years ago when i insured it they didn't ask to see it. They just gave me the card that said C60 Chevrolet. Later i changed to a lady at my church for my agent. She laughed when i brought up the C60. She had seen that thing way over loaded with scrap boilers, to saw logs. So it's been parked for a good while now. She mentioned that I should just get a dump trailer, and use a smaller truck to tow it with. Ive never seen a DOT officer with a ton truck and dump trailer pulled over. Every time I seen a state trooper I would cringe thinking it was gonna cost me $$$$$ in that old girl. Being the bottom has fallen out of scrap steel , I dont see anymore huge boilers , or fatory machines being hauled by me in the future anyway. One.of these for wood , and logs is the way to go.
All I gotta say is congrats on being able to keep two: use one as a big wheelbarrow in the yard and another for deliveries.
That has been my practice so far! I do lend out the Griffin from time to time and you can see what that got me! LOL
I'm so glad I live in Texas, driving a 10 year old Truck with zero rust...
Man, I shopped dump trailers for literal YEARS before I finally pulled the trigger on one. I bought a 6x12 for my personal firewood consumption. It came down to three trailers for me. Diamond C, Maxx D, and Load Trail. Ultimately a Diamond C was just out of my budget. Maxx D and Load Trail made it VERY difficult to pick a trailer. Neither one checked all the boxes, but they both checked a lot of boxes. Maxx D has standard wireless remotes, and Load Trail does not. But I liked the D ring tailgate hold backs on the Load Trail better than the chains on the Maxx D. Ultimately I went with the Load Trail. They were spec’d out very similar, and the Load Trail was about $1,500 cheaper. I can always add a wireless remote, but I am not a welder lol. Some honorable mentions for me would include; Lamar, Ed, and Good Guys. Good luck to anybody shopping for dump trailers. There are a lot of really great trailers out there, and it’s a very difficult choice to make!
My equipment trailer has Dexter axles. I like them. They have the EZlube feature, with grease fittings similar to a boat trailer.
Same here. My Griffin has the same fittings
On that gate that likes to pop open... maybe add a locking pin near the top. Possibly a few welded loops with a hitch pin?
I've thought of that. I'm thinking something can be done
@@ohiowoodburner tarp strap.
😁
I’d invest some time and money into the Griffin dump trailer and do the paint work. Not only would it look better but also last longer.
You can take the Griffin to Diversified Maintenance in North Bloomfield for fresh paint. They do a great job of restoring equipment.
Thanks for the info, I’m in the market for a trailer and found this very useful.
If you go down to home Depot they sell a paint called turbo paint it's a tall can that sprays 11 in wide pattern you could take a sand disk to the trailer and get the rust off and spray it on as much as you want might look a lot better also you can keep touching up on it
They call them torkflex axels and they are independent suspension so only one tire takes a hit on the dips and also the axle is a cross member.
Winter are harsh in pa and oh but that’s a shame about that paint. Thanks for the review they look real handy.
The paint was a huge bummer for sure Keith
I only buy the Diamond C trailers. Their powder coat is durable as hell. Moritz looks like a nice trailer. The dealer I use sells both Diamond C and MoritZ.
Dump trailers are a bear to back up a hill and turn just went with a 8 foot dump bed , like it much better.
Only if you don’t know what you’re doing. I have a 16 ft dump and I back it up hills all the time.
Excellent overview! Thank you for frank and complete information.
Ive had to sand and repaint my 7x14 dump trailer. Used rustoleum oil based black gloss. Gotta keep them greased, well painted and washed to deal with all the salt in winter which is 5-6months long in WI
I think mine has passed the point of no return Garrett!
@@ohiowoodburner yeah, as long as it keeps dumping its a good woodyard wheelbarrow