Thanks for the video, very well done. If i wanted to use jack stands as extra protection while working on it, where would I place them? I see where the hockey puck jacking points are for the jack but what about the stands once the car is up?
The only time you need to bleed the system is if you have to open it for a reason. (Changing a caliper, a broken hose or line, etc...) You don't have to bleed it if you're just changing pads & rotors.
It really is that easy, but I understand you not wanting to tackle it. I was the same way until I tried it one day. i haven't looked back since. My car won't go to the shop, unless the job is beyond my experience.
That depends on how you drive. There are pad wear sensors on Mercedes Benz brake pads, so change them whenever the light on the dash is lit. Or change them whenever they get lower than a 3rd of the original thickness of the pad.
@@OonTH-cam thank you! I’ve had my 2017 cla for 5 years, only 24,000 miles on it…. I’ve never changed the brakes, should I change them just to be safe? Thanks again!
@@baconburger9156 Not unless you have a specific problem with them. If they are cracked, worn too thin, if you feel vibration when braking, if you have a light on the dash, etc... If not, then no, there's no need to change them just based on time.
You working too hard there big bro. Turn the wheel towards yourself when doing brakes. It will render the whole process a lot easier. And please use a jack stand
Thanks for the advice, and I do use Jack stands, but I knew what I was doing. I had 2 4 ton jacks under that compact car. Safety is always supposed to be first, so if you're working on your car, you should always use Jack stands.
You can always fast forward to the part that you want to watch. I purposefully recorded this that way, so you can see the whole job. I apologize for trying to be detailed enough for people to follow. I try to be thorough, so people can see everything.
Thanks for video. But I'm sorry, there are few things that don't reflect reality. A: before pulling the caliper off, there is zero reasons not to push back the piston before removing it. PLEASE DONT USE C CLAMPS ON THOSE CALIPERS!!!!!! IT IS SUPER EASY TO DAMAGE THEM, THEY ARE ALUMINUM CALIPERS AND DENT VERY EASILY. YOU CAN WALL INTO A PROBLEM THAT WILL BE UNDIAGNOSABLE B: it's better to change rotors when You change pads? Absolutely not. If you have high quality rotors on, it makes 0 sense to throw them out, I'm on my 4th set of pads on my Zimmerman rotors and there are no signs of then needing being changed. C: drilled and slotted rotors are better than solid? On a feather light car like CLA it will make 0 difference unless you are planning on racing down from Mount everest with 1000lb of gear in the car. But what those rotors will do, is chew the living life out of the poor pads in no time.
I appreciate your comment. I'm not really sure why you would say that what I'm doing here doesn't reflect reality, when I'm doing it right before your eyes, and my instructions have helped many many people, as you can see by the comments. I'm sure that they'd disagree with you. However, I always take good advice from anyone that can teach me something. A. I haven't had any issues with damaging calipers with a C clamp, I do have a piston pusher that's not a C clamp style, so I'll use that next time. B. It's a general rule to change rotors whenever you change pads, but of course, if you don't want/need to, you don't have to. My advice is to have them turned, so that they're absolutely smooth, if you plan to use the same rotors with new pads. Again, that's my opinion, so you do whatever you want. Pads and rotors develop a wear pattern over time, so just throwing a set of new pads onto the same rotors without making sure that they're absolutely smooth COULD cause vibration, squealing, premature pad wear, and over dusting, as time goes on. You are right, though, you absolutely can use the same rotors if that's what you prefer. C. I prefer drilled & slotted rotors because they, generally, stay cooler than solid rotors, I have never had my pads ate up by them, but I'm a professional driver, I know how to use (not over use) my brakes. If you have subpar driving skills, you'll eat through a set of pads no matter what kind of rotors you have on your car. I have drilled & slotted rotors on all seven of my cars, and none of the pads are being ate up by them, or I'd stop using them. You don't have to be a race car driver, or descend off of mount Everest with a thousand pounds, in order for drilled & slotted rotors to be effective for you. That's a common misconception. Everyone has their own likes & dislikes, so my videos reflect my own thoughts & opinions. I, in no way, am saying that it's the only way.
![มองหน้ากันไม่ติด (Awkward) - โอ๊ต ปราโมทย์ FEAT. MAIYARAP [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4b02SY_r6Gw/mqdefault.jpg)
![[#SHORTS CLIP] ครูอึ้ง กรรมการอึ้ง ฮ่าๆ l ซานิเบาได้เบา l One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qeBTuMJs4t0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks O, great video shows exactly what needs to be done in a real world scenario we can relate too, much appreciated.
Amazing thank you so much for putting this up, very informative, going to change my own rotors and brake pads.
That's what I like to hear. Your comments is what makes me keep going. Thank you
Very informative. Great video. Thank you. I always tell everyone Merz are so easy to work on I don't know why they always charge so much at the shop.
Because of the Brand name, that's it...
Did a good job of explaining the process
I appreciate it. I do my best, but sometimes, without a camera man, it gets difficult.
Thank you for this video! Appreciate it.
I'm glad it helped...
Great Vid O, thanks man!
Great job thanks so much ,.👍🏾
Thanks, and glad that l could help.
What are the torque specs for the two different bolts please...Great, clear informative video 👍
Nice vid. Question what is the torque specs or ft lbs on those bolts ?
Thank you!
Good man whit a good video. 👍
Thank you. I try to help out whenever I can.
awesome content..! keep it up
I appreciate you, and I'll try to keep it coming. Thanks for watching...
Absolutely beautiful
It's all money driven
Thanks for the video, very well done. If i wanted to use jack stands as extra protection while working on it, where would I place them? I see where the hockey puck jacking points are for the jack but what about the stands once the car is up?
subframe or torque box
ありがとう! 僕も挑戦してみます!
you described the caliber braket bolts as E bolts.. were those 6pt or 7pt? 13.5mm
Bru lol. Feel like I have a dad to show me how to change out my brakes and rotors watching this lol
Hi Great video! Will this is be the same procedure on a 2015 Gla 250? Thank you very much!
I'm sure the the GLA & CLA are very similar, but make sure you know what those differences are 1st.
Job well done
Great video thank you! Where can I buy the same drilled rotors ? And is it a sport package or not? Thank you again 😊
I bought that kit on Ebay, and no it's not a sport package.
@@OonTH-cam thank you 👌
Where did you order your pads and rotors?
EBay... I always order factory parts.
Is the screw that holds the rotor a star bit?
Yes, that's a star screw. If I'm not mistaken it's a T20.
Assuming this is similar for rear replacement other than the lowering of the actuator?
If you know how to back the rear actuator off, changing the pads is pretty much the same.
@@OonTH-cam Got it, thanks
you didn’t have to bleed the brakes? can i ask why? i changed my front pads & rotors a couple weeks ago & didn’t bleed mine & now i’m scared lol
The only time you need to bleed the system is if you have to open it for a reason. (Changing a caliper, a broken hose or line, etc...)
You don't have to bleed it if you're just changing pads & rotors.
good job big bro! make it look real easy...she going to dem people tho lol!
It really is that easy, but I understand you not wanting to tackle it. I was the same way until I tried it one day. i haven't looked back since. My car won't go to the shop, unless the job is beyond my experience.
How much do u charge? I have the same car and I think I need new brakes. I got new rotors but I think brakes is messed up
Just look up mobile technician.
Were you order your pads sir and what size??🙏
I get my pads from Harbor Freight believe it, or not.
take off that key lock nut in garbage and install regular sometimes it get stuck then you have to weld it big pain to remove it
Lol explaining the slots and drills in the rotor lmao.
Where did you get that jack and what brand is that?
Harbor Freight Pittsburg
Good looks my man
@@GNX87Turbo Thank you
I have the same car make and model 2015. It kept blinking that I need to check my brake pad. Help
Did you have to bleed the front brakes?
No, I didn't have to bleed them, but bleeding brakes is super easy.
@@OonTH-cam Okay thank you
humm, the pads wore asymmetrically but you did not clean the slide pins.. the usual cause.
How often should you change the brake pads?
That depends on how you drive. There are pad wear sensors on Mercedes Benz brake pads, so change them whenever the light on the dash is lit. Or change them whenever they get lower than a 3rd of the original thickness of the pad.
@@OonTH-cam thank you! I’ve had my 2017 cla for 5 years, only 24,000 miles on it…. I’ve never changed the brakes, should I change them just to be safe?
Thanks again!
@@baconburger9156 Not unless you have a specific problem with them. If they are cracked, worn too thin, if you feel vibration when braking, if you have a light on the dash, etc... If not, then no, there's no need to change them just based on time.
Rear?
th-cam.com/video/rcHgg_Rzdqs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video.
However, the car should be secured by a second means instead of relying on the hydraulic jacks alone
You are absolutely right, and I said that, as well, in the video.
You working too hard there big bro. Turn the wheel towards yourself when doing brakes. It will render the whole process a lot easier. And please use a jack stand
Thanks for the advice, and I do use Jack stands, but I knew what I was doing. I had 2 4 ton jacks under that compact car. Safety is always supposed to be first, so if you're working on your car, you should always use Jack stands.
Jesus that took forever to watch, great info just work on your commentary Sr.
You can always fast forward to the part that you want to watch. I purposefully recorded this that way, so you can see the whole job. I apologize for trying to be detailed enough for people to follow. I try to be thorough, so people can see everything.
Thanks for video.
But I'm sorry, there are few things that don't reflect reality.
A: before pulling the caliper off, there is zero reasons not to push back the piston before removing it. PLEASE DONT USE C CLAMPS ON THOSE CALIPERS!!!!!! IT IS SUPER EASY TO DAMAGE THEM, THEY ARE ALUMINUM CALIPERS AND DENT VERY EASILY. YOU CAN WALL INTO A PROBLEM THAT WILL BE UNDIAGNOSABLE
B: it's better to change rotors when You change pads? Absolutely not. If you have high quality rotors on, it makes 0 sense to throw them out, I'm on my 4th set of pads on my Zimmerman rotors and there are no signs of then needing being changed.
C: drilled and slotted rotors are better than solid? On a feather light car like CLA it will make 0 difference unless you are planning on racing down from Mount everest with 1000lb of gear in the car. But what those rotors will do, is chew the living life out of the poor pads in no time.
I appreciate your comment.
I'm not really sure why you would say that what I'm doing here doesn't reflect reality, when I'm doing it right before your eyes, and my instructions have helped many many people, as you can see by the comments.
I'm sure that they'd disagree with you.
However, I always take good advice from anyone that can teach me something.
A. I haven't had any issues with damaging calipers with a C clamp, I do have a piston pusher that's not a C clamp style, so I'll use that next time.
B. It's a general rule to change rotors whenever you change pads, but of course, if you don't want/need to, you don't have to. My advice is to have them turned, so that they're absolutely smooth, if you plan to use the same rotors with new pads.
Again, that's my opinion, so you do whatever you want. Pads and rotors develop a wear pattern over time, so just throwing a set of new pads onto the same rotors without making sure that they're absolutely smooth COULD cause vibration, squealing, premature pad wear, and over dusting, as time goes on.
You are right, though, you absolutely can use the same rotors if that's what you prefer.
C. I prefer drilled & slotted rotors because they, generally, stay cooler than solid rotors,
I have never had my pads ate up by them, but I'm a professional driver, I know how to use (not over use) my brakes. If you have subpar driving skills, you'll eat through a set of pads no matter what kind of rotors you have on your car.
I have drilled & slotted rotors on all seven of my cars, and none of the pads are being ate up by them, or I'd stop using them.
You don't have to be a race car driver, or descend off of mount Everest with a thousand pounds, in order for drilled & slotted rotors to be effective for you.
That's a common misconception.
Everyone has their own likes & dislikes, so my videos reflect my own thoughts & opinions. I, in no way, am saying that it's the only way.