Remove A Stuck Brake Rotor Easily And Cheaply!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ต.ค. 2024
- #brakeservice #brakes #carrepair
cheap and easy way to remove a brake rotor that is seized on without special tools!
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Hours of WD40 and a rubber mallet! Took me five minutes with two bolts, nuts and the old brake pads. Thank you for posting this.
Pro Tip: put the Lugnuts on 2/3rds of the way to protect the threads just in case the rotor pops off very suddenly and scrapes the threads on the studs
Great tip. You may want to use a large diameter coin or something similar to distribute the pressure on the back side of the rotor by the bolt.
I literally spent 1 hour trying to take off one off on my f250. Tried this method on the other one and did the trick.
Dude thanks a lot you are amazing my friend. I wrestle with my rotor yesterday went to bed beat up today saw your video on my way to pick up my daughter. Got home tried your method and came out like butter. Thank you sir
Was shown to me so I can't take credit. But thanks for watching.
Once the rotor is off, prevent rust from happening again by cleaning the rust off the hub with a wire brush and spreading a very thin layer of anti seize on the hub face. It re-using the same rotor, clean rust off the inside surface that contacts the hub.
Fluid film works as well
Fluid film is my normal go to. Less messy. But I use the film to also prevent/slow rust from the undercarriage, so sometimes I run out. So I've used a THIN coat of anti seize. They both work very well.
I always put anti-seize on the hub good tip.
Swapping an axle assembly from a parts car onto my daily driver. Between a very stuck rotor and a very stuck driveshaft, it's been challenging. This trick and some heavy penetrant saved me so much time. Such a smart but simple hack! Thank you!
Cheers man. Share and check out some of the other stuff
You saved me from blowing a gasket. That bolt hack is right on. Thank you very much.
Brilliant! Thank you! My 2018 Camry rear rotors were stuck. Nothing would get them off. I watched your video, and found a bolt and nut to use, and they came off quickly. Thank you for the help!
I dropped the rotor face down with bearing and studs outwards popped loose
Thank you very much I've been struggling for 2 days 🙏🙏🙏💪💪
Thank you for posting this video. I was hammering away with not a budge. I used this method on an 1999 Lexus but without the impact driver. Just used a ratchet and an open end wrench and came off with no problem. The passenger side was a little tougher so I used a second bolt through the other flange and “pop” it came right off.
Thank you Vic.. I have tried everything and this is the best starting point and effective. forget hammers, heat, penetrant
Great video! I just spent a few hours...just like you did...messing with a rear passenger side rotor on a 1996 Ford Explorer. From the shade beneath the truck, I watched your video, placed a steering wheel puller on the same knuckle where you placed the bolt, and it popped the first time...a few rotations of the rotor later, it came loose , and I started putting away my tools for tomorrow's new rotors. Thanks so much!
Great video sir. My hole fell directly in middle of inside edge of rotor. It went in sideways and broke. Barely got it out. I had to use both holes and slide a strong but thin piece of steel between bolt and rotar so bolt would tighten straight. Tightened each a little at a time and they popped right off. Couldn’t have done it without your vid. Thank you!
Hi, just want to thank you for your video. I used your method but with a manual ratchet and it worked great. Save me time money and frustration! Your video was straight and to the point. Thanks!
Thanks bud. Hope you share and subscribe!
Thanks Vic, you just saved me a big headache and a trip to the city
I used metric bolts to remove stuck hub bearing on an impala.NEVER SAW ANYONE ELSE USE BOLTS TO REMOVE WHEEL HUB BUT IT WORKS EVERYTIME.
Excellent - simple and effective technique. Will try it next time I have a stuck rotor. Thanks!
This worked perfectly - thanks!
I can add that releasing the parking brake makes this a lot easier if the rotor has a "drum in hat" =)
Thanks. Your method saves my day. I tried hummer, MAD gas, rotor screws (supposed to push the rotor out). All are not working. Came the help from TH-cam. I use a 14mm screw to push the rotor out. It works !!
Many Thanks :)
Thank you so much. This worked Great on my 2022 F250. The truck came from Green Bay where there is extreme rust/corrosion and any metal not aluminum. Front rotors cans off about 3 min per side. Thank you again!!
Glad to hear. Hope you subscribe and check some of the history content out on the channel!
Thanks so much. You saved me hours of hammering and several cans of PB Blaster. A quick trip to the hardware store for the bolts and I popped them off. I used two bolts, for the upper and lower holes, for more brute force but maybe one could have done the job. 2004 F250 4WD front brakes.
Thanks a lot I went through this yesterday trying to install rear hubs on my 2012 Nissan Armada
awesome... I used my puller with the all tread and arbor and it worked
I can’t believe I’ve never thought of this, definitely gonna remember that one thanks for the tip
Ty worked like a charm, effortlessly
Nor bad. Not bad at all. I appreciate the ingenuity. Adapt and overcome.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you 10x. I was just about to give up and take my truck into a pro. This worked perfectly
Thank you so much, saved my day. I was changing the breaks on my friend's Hyundai i30 and the rotors were sized so badly. This trick loosened them right up 👌👌😁🚗
Awesome man! I broke a rotor with a sledge hammer and still didn’t get them off.
The same trick can work to take off stuck hub as well. Thanks for your video!
Fantastic!! Thank you!! My 2006 Scion and me are very grateful!
Great tip!
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS! You and your genius idea are much appreciated 🙏 We had tried everything else with no luck, and this worked in just minutes
I can’t take credit for the idea. It was shown to me and several others have done it before me. But I’m glad it worked for you.
This was the only thing that got my rotor unstuck. Thank you!
I've always used the Find-Me-A-Bigger-Hammer approach. That's always worked for me, but I know I'm going to jack something up one of these days.
Thank you. This worked perfectly. ( After an hour of sledge hammering and wearing out my arms.) Again, thank you.
Thank you Vic, you made my day.
Worked for me, thanks for posting this.
I also had the same problem. After I called a friend of mine to help me with the stuck rotors, I greased all the contact housing surface with copper grease. So next time brake rotors will come out easily.
Awesome, I'll remember your tip! Thanks.
Works like a charm!!
good camera work thanks
Great video. One suggestion would be to add a second nut partially threaded on where it makes contact with the rotor to protect the threads. I squished my threads without it and hard a very hard time getting the nut off after with the squished threads. Cheers
Perfect trick that did the job. Great job with the video!
Ball peen hammer to the front typically works for me. A regular hammer and mini sledge don't work but the ball peen shakes the rust free and it gives way after half a dozen whacks or so.
Great idea! So simple I'm ashamed I never thought of that myself! Thanks for this 😁
Can’t take credit for it. It was shown to me.
I tried penatrating oil set for an hour then hammered 50 times it would not come off. Seen the bolt trick. 6 times tightening and turning router with socket driver it loosened up🤩 thanks all you TH-camrs with the videos
Thanks man!
Genius technique!
I'm gonna try it , I bought a puller and it wouldn't do the job hopefully it will work. Thanks for the video
Thanks a lot
Thanks, I really appreciate it you making this video. I too used PB blaster, a hammer, a hudge pry bar, MAPP gas, wouldn't even budge.
Right on
This method worked for me, thank you
You are a life saver.
Thanks man , saved my life
I tried the bolt trick but it damaged the knuckle ....I had to use a disc puller & submerged the disc & rotor in diesel and finally it came off. I'm going to keep a spray bottle with some diesel in it for any future jobs 👍🏻
If your putting a new rotor on you can drill it straight into the rotor don’t do if your not tho because it will mess them up but this worked perfect for me after I had tried all the other tricks including loosening the emergency brake adjuster
Id just be worried about bending the bracket if its really stuck...
Can we trust a mechanic with clean hands??
😁
Great tip
Lol. You should see them now. But it’s from building a shed and not car work.
Nice idea. Just a note. You can put the axle nut on partially or use a socket to create a well to hold the wheel puller shaft from slipping off. But I like your solution better.
This did they trick! New power unlocked!
Slick trick, man.
It worked👍, thanks. Great video
Good tip, i need to change my Rotors that I know are siezed on.
Drill 2 small hole on the rotor across from each other between the lug nut stud tap it then use right size bolt to push it out
Same deal here but after removing the caliper and bracket a 24" pry bar on the knuckle popped my rotors off. Sometimes dust shield is in the way of those bolts.
Thanks goood explanation
lol, well I’m going to try. I backed off the shoe adjustment on rear, hammered it, air hammered, cursed at it, wd40, penetrating oil, etc. this is by far the most promising and makes sense. I take it you could do top and bottom trying to wiggle out.
I’m going to try. I’ll be back between 0 and 9 million hours from now :)
@@thenext9537 Godspeed lol
@@VicsGarage71 didn’t work for me. I literally torched in between bolts, sprayed wd40 and silicone spray over night, pen oil. Hammers, block, etc. tried to crank down on bolt, rotor would just bend out and it come off….
So I slapped some new pads on there and said “that’s enough outta you!” My rotors on back are ok, not great, not super bad but one side is grooved on inner and the pad can smooth it out.
Yea, I’ll have to deal with it in 5-20k miles but works now so there!!!!!!
@@thenext9537lol Jesus. Might need to buy a an actual puller or a bigger hammer!
@@VicsGarage71 5,10 lbs sledge. Map gas blowtorch. Air hammer. Bolt nut method. I don’t know. Rotor pullers for my truck are hard to find. 15” rotor, and I see 12.5” pullers but not big enough.
I’ll drive it for a while, prob in a year it’ll have to take it to a shop lol because that thing ain’t budging!
Thank you man! I can't tell ya how many times I banged on it while screaming "SCREW IT!!" kind of ironic that, in the end I just calmly "SCREWED IT" off!? Ha! Thanx again!
Yeah man. So many people telling me to just hit it harder. I had a rotor brake off in pieces and still not come off. This worked great.
My Camry has two threaded holes on the front side of the rotor, 180 degrees apart. You simply tighen two bolts into the holes and rotor gets pushed away from the hub. Too bad all car's rotors don't have that simple feature.
Okay I'm on day three so I'm going to try your suggestion there with the bolts. I'll get back with you and let you know how it goes
Subscribed! Thank you again!
Man thx Vic that will come handy great video
Anytime bud!
Thank you so much you made my job 1000% easier again thank you for your efforts 👌
Glad it worked for u
@VicsGarage71 it works great 15.00 versus 140.00 tool thanks again
THANK YOU SO MUCH YOU SAVED MY GOD BLESS!!!
Excellent! A poor man's press!
Thanks now I have a bent caliper housing it’s a disaster. I showed this video to an actual mechanic and he laughed at this. He said there’s only one way rotors come off and that’s brute force with a hammer. I caution anyone who wants to try this.
You manged to bend what is likely a cast iron caliper bracket before stripping the threads on the bolts?
@@VicsGarage71 I don’t know what it’s made of but I managed to bend it back within tolerance and now I’m gonna get rid of it. I had to get the rotors off with a 10lb sledge hammer
I must try it!
if it works on my car I owe you a beer!
WOW!
Most rotors have a threaded screw . Remove the screw with a punch screwdriver to remove it and then use a bolt of the correct thread size . The way you show can break and damage parts
I wouldn’t say most have that thread hole. Clearly this one didn’t and my other vehicle doesn’t.
Great idea !! Thanks 👍
i've been struggling for 2 days now, tried everything possible except this, I just need to run to the store and get the bolt, washer and nut. My bolt caliper is 21MM, do you recommend to use 20MM or 19MM bolt? I appreciate your video, I hope it works on mine!
Sledge works every time for me but I am also not trying to save the rotor so maybe that's the best way if you're trying to remove it without replacing it. Having said this I never met a rotor that wouldn't come off with a sledge.
First time I did breaks on my truck I ended up breaking pieces off rotor before it came off with a sledge. It eventually did but what a pain in the ass.
@@VicsGarage71 hahaha good point. Yes it can break in pieces if it’s too rusty
Genius !
Thanks. I'll give it try
Remember to put a bit of pressure, then back it off, rotate and repeat. Don't just crank it and damage the the bracket or something.
@@VicsGarage71 Well, turns out the steering knuckle mounts on my Tundra are too close to the rotor to get even a 3/8 nut let alone a nut + washer in there. Didn't matter because an overnight soak with PB Blaster did the trick. Thanks anyway.
Best way I have found is spray with WD40 then put the wheel back on but don't torque down the lug nuts. Put lug nuts on finger tight then back them off 1/2 turn. Drive the car in circles around the yard with loose lug nuts for a minute or two. Obviously do not do this in traffic or at high speeds. Just slow about walking speed and make sharp turns. If you have a bumpy surface with pot holes or speed bumps even better.
Great job.
Thank you so much this worked
Comp B works as well
I did the very same thing on my Mazda. Ended up bending back the ear and ruining the hub. Had to cut a groove with a grinder and zip cut disk to get it off. Not everything you see on TH-cam is right…beware
Did you miss the part about backing it off and rotating You must of just cranked it.
@@VicsGarage71 rotated more time then I can remember. The ear doesn’t rotate lol.
THE BEST
Toyota and Honda have tapped holes to help you take your rotors off with a bolt. I'm surprised other manufacturers don't have that feature.
My Chevy truck and my son's Hyundai have those threaded holes.
Awesome!
Gouge it with a bolt....good job
I tried this method after seeing it on another video. I was able to remove the spindle nut without a wrench. It just sliped off the end taking the threads with it. I do not own an acetylene torch so I was doomed anyway. I might be able to remove the rotor from the hub with thermite.
I use a touch hammer you name it omg it’s just stuck
Nice solution!.... and by the way they make a 10 ton hydraulic version of the three armed puller that would have worked.... but the bolts are way cheaper!! 10 ton $99 at HFT... in your world princess auto
Yeah that was my next step for sure!
I did the same thing for the bearing btw! Might make another quick video on that lol.
Braking caliper backing
Maybe stop installing rotors on the dry hubs? Protect it somehow (thin film of lubricant or spray paint).
I’ll tell the manufacturer
Doing the rear sportage 2011 rotors, tried to release the parking brake shoes through the inspection hole but the adjuster wheel is seized even with penetrating oil, I’m at a loss of how to get the rotor off
Easy because you did already the hard part baging, lubrucating and heating before you use that bolt method. Anyway nice video.
It looks like you chose a bolt slightly smaller than the size of the carrier bolt hole. My first thought is if there is any chance you could strip or just mar the carrier knuckle threads doing it this way using that impact driver, since you really can’t guarantee the bolt threads won’t come in contact with the carrier knuckle threads.
Never mind. Forgot, that carrier knuckle isn’t threaded!
@@mabco888that’s it lol
Better yet use some Molly lube grease on the bolt threads and a piece of flat metal to protect the brake rotor from the end of the bold