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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- This video will show you how to replace a rack and pinion assembly in a Toyota Camry. It took me a long time to do this because I never removed one before but now I know the process. I will show how to remove the tie rod ends, explain front end alignment and toe in, how the rack and pinion system works with relation to the steering of the car, disconnecting the steering wheel from the rack and pinion assembly, removing the power steering high pressure and return line to the rack and pinion assembly, removing the stabilizer bar, removing the bolt that fasten the rack and pinion assembly to the frame, removing the rack and pinion assembly from the car, transferring the tie rod ends to the new rack and pinion assembly, installing new o-rings on high pressure and return lines, flushing the system and reassemble the whole system.
Tip # 1: Unloosen the bolt on the tie rod adjusting rod before removing the tie rod end.
Tip # 2: Remove the plastic box between the air cleaner and valve body. This gives access to the rack and pinion assembly for above.
Tip # 3: Remove the nut holding the high pressure and return lines to the rack and pinion assembly before removing the lines. This will make a lot easier to remove the lines because it gives more freedom of movement.
Tip # 4: Flush as much fluid out of the system before removing the high pressure and return lines.
Tip # 5: Remove the stabilizer bar before removing the bolts on the rack and pinion assembly. This gives you access to the bolts and makes it easier.
Tip # 6: This is the wrong way to remove this bolt because the nut has a tab on it that stops the nut from making a full turn. Remove from the bolt side.
The rack and pinion assembly is the same from 1992 to 2001.
How to replace a rack and pinion assembly in a 1992 Toyota Camry
How to replace a rack and pinion assembly in a 1993 Toyota Camry
How to replace a rack and pinion assembly in a 1994 Toyota Camry
How to replace a rack and pinion assembly in a 1995 Toyota Camry
How to replace a rack and pinion assembly in a 1996 Toyota Camry
How to replace a rack and pinion assembly in a 1997 Toyota Camry
How to replace a rack and pinion assembly in a 1998 Toyota Camry
How to replace a rack and pinion assembly in a 1999 Toyota Camry
How to replace a rack and pinion assembly in a 2000 Toyota Camry
How to replace a rack and pinion assembly in a 2001 Toyota Camry
Simple illustration of how one can replace the rack and pinion. I think my worries are over thanks for this video. Thumbs up
Take your time and you do not have to finish it one day.
Mechanics by me easily charge in the price range from 700$ to 1000$ . Thank you so much , it was my first rack and pinion job. Thank you so much
That is a lot of money
Great job and video. I can't believe how clean that car is for what would have been an 18 year old car at the time this video was posted.
It is a California car. San Francisco Bay area, no snow or salt.
Thanks a million David, you helped me save about $200.00 in labor, plus helped me build my confidence under the hood. God bless and happy Holidays.
Great video. Job is going to go by much smoother after watching this. Thank you!
Yes it is
hey, Mr. Congrats!
You´ve shown us that no lift is necessary to replace the racken pinion.
Good Job!
Excellent video I just replaced rack and pinion on my 99 Camry today the mechanic charged me $ 450.00
Great, made my day - saved $450
GREAT JOB MAN!!! The video is well made and crystal clear. Apart from some minor mistakes technically speaking, you did an amazing job. This video will help a lot of people save hundreds of dollars from taking their car to a mechanic or worse to the dealer. Kudos and thank you!
This is a great video. This method is essentially the same for not only 1992 to 2001 camry's but really any fwd toyota vehicle. Camry's, Corrolla, avalon, Es300, and I'd be willing to bet its very similar on Scion's as well.
I did this and let me tell you how hard it was. All i actually had to change was the bushing but i still had to take everything out. It took me three weekends to realize the bolt wont unscrew from the front. Then after we figured it out me and my cousin took 3 days to do it. It was a learning process. Expect to do lots of problem solving and adapting, tools, and frustration.
+JR Rivero I had the same issue with those two large bolts and nuts. I was going to cut them off with a torch when I discovered the nuts had little tabs on them and did not turn. I show what they look like at 17 minutes and 21 minutes into the video. I had to replace the unit again because I installed a defective unit (had a dead spot when driving) and the next time it took me about 4 hours. I would I could watch this video before doing it myself.
+David Lis putting the stabilizer bar back in is pretty tough as well
+JR Rivero The entire job is miserable. That is why I made the video, to reduce the pain. It is a lot easier doing it after watching the video.
I was considering doing this on my 97 a few weeks ago but I decided I didn't want to deal with it so I just took it to the shop. I think I'll stick to doing the easier stuff
You have to pick your jobs, some are just to hard and if you don't have the time - it is what is is.
Replaced the Rack & Pinion for my 94 Camry SE 2 door by following this video. almost the same as shown in the video. was able to remove the whole rack without taking the stabilizer bar completely out. just needed to lose it up to get access the rack 2 big bolts. was able to complete the job on 3 hrs then ligament which does not cost much at all.
thank you for video I just replaced the rack and pinion on my 2001 camry and your video was very helpful and I am sure it saved me many hours. Thank you again.
I am glad it helped you. It is a lot easier to do it after you watch someone else do it.
im grateful as well. i need to do this on a volvo, but your demonstration made it alot clearer.
Excellent video. You convinced me to have a pro do it. I'm more impressed that you didn't cuss a blue streak while doing that miserable job.
I am very happy with how you explain on how to do everything. You're the first person that i have seen on here that for a person like myself that doesnt know much about mechanics can do this with no problem. I really appreciate your expert advise on how to do this. I thank you very much you were very helpful.
The money you saved me I’m gonna fly from over here in NY to you and buy you nice dinner!!!
I am just happy that all my hard work and time to make the video helped someone.
I am a universe person - what comes around goes around.
If you help someone get what they want, someone, somewhere, somehow, will help you get what you want.
Works for me.
This video is a great addition to the toyota automotive repair community. I was looking for a camry/solara rack replace video a few weeks ago and there was none. I appreciate your video. I wish you would have presented a tool summation during the video as there is none but that is okay. I appreciate your video as it is.
siucbset really good point! a sumerization of the tools used (like spanner/socket sizes needed) would be a great addition. That way folks would know what they need before they start. I know the main spanner/socket sizes needed are 12, 14 & 17mm
thousand thanks for taking your time an film the steps.God bless have a nice Day
I wish this video was available for me to watch before I did it.
10. While having hte stabilizer bar loose, clean the subframe, the clamps and the bushings. Maybe, a good idea to replace the stabilizer bar bushings. If you change rack, it is because it is leaking. If it is leaking, most of your rubber bushings are damaged.
Very informative video. Thanks for the effort of taping the job while doing it.
It looks much easier in the manual than watching the actual work being done.
Thanks for making this how to video. I was able to successfully change my RnP out after work in 8 hours due to this video.
This is not an easy job.
Not at all but this video really helps install confidence in others that have the ability and tools to do it with a little guidance.
Thank you sir, I just changed mine today after I watched your video. it was a challenge but I did it.
+Mike Bono It is a lot easier after watching this video. Uou didn't have to make some of the mistakes I did.
Thinking of giving this a go on my '98 Corolla. It would likely be the most extensive car work that I've done, but I am not a total newbie. I am nervous, though.
Just plan on more time. When things start going wrong, stop and start again another day.
Thank you!!!
A few ideas:
1. Never use an adjustable wrench. Use a box-wrench or a socket, then flare-nut-wrench, and then open-end wrench.
The adjustable wrench makes nuts round.
2. When loosening the outer tie rod end, use a 19-mm on the nut and 14-mm wrench on the inner tie rod.
3. Avoid using hammers when releasing the outer tie rod ends. Fork is a bad idea. There is a special tool for this purpose. 20.00 at Freight harbour or ebay... You may ask for a loan-tool from AutoZone, Advanced or O'Reilly.
4. Put a big piece of cardboard to catch fluids and grease.
5. Use a flare-nut wrench when working brake or steering lines. The nuts are soft, brass. Flare nut wrench presses on 4 corners, while open-end wrench only on 2 points.
6. Remove the tie rod ends first and install them last. This way it will be easier to pass the rack through tight space.
7. Some people advise to count the revolutions on the outer tie rod end, not the remaining steps on the inner. The inner tie rod end may have variable threaded length.
8. The camry has a subframe. This subframe is bolted to the basket of the engine with 4 very big very long bolts.
The subframe actually holds the engine, transmission and steering rack, plus the lower control arms.
You may want to unscrew these 4 bolts half way, and this will drop the subframe, allowing more room to work.
To do this, support the subframe, unscrew completely each bolt, see how long it is, and then install it back.
When you begin to lower the subframe make sure you do not tear offsomething. You need to remove the top engine mount.
9. Have someone help you by holding the othre end when extracting or putting back the rack.
Thank you!! Im replacing the rack and pinion of my car and using your video as a guide and so far its going well. My car is a Lexus es300 2001. :D
OK, made my day. I can not even guess how much Lexus would charge you!!!
Great educational video well explained 👏
Only one suggestion if you knew it that you was going to remplace the part you should cleaned with engine degreeser so that way you work little bit more better knowing that it's not so greasy and dirty 😉
I know.
I was not expecting to do this job but my neighbor brought the car over and said the steering was screwed up so I started to look at it. Next thing, I started taking it apart to see what was the problem.
I was not into it because I was sick at the time so it was twice as hard. The real ball buster was the one I installed didn't work, then the next one didn't work, I finally went to another auto parts store and finally the 3rd one worked.
The car gods were not with me on that job.
Thanks for showing good details on removal and installation. Great instructional vids!
Now you can do it.
Very good video better than A1auto thank you you make it looks more easily them those guys
Thanks, it is a lot easier after watching someone do it first.
This is an excellent vid! I wish others would do his well. Your camera angles are great and show perspective very well and your thoroughness in description is great! Thank you for such a thorough video! I can did this without dreading it now! (Wish I had this for the power steering pump, that was awful)
Good job. that's a long day and a pain in the tail.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you. My 98 Camry needs a rack soon.
Buen video amigo lo busque mucho.. tenia dudas de como quitar los tornillo de las abrazadera..
tambien ahorrare dinero haciendolo yo mismo.
thanks my friend..
Kudos my man.... Great job on detail, patience and explanation of all steps. Thank you for your effort!
Amazing Job. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the video!
Hope it helps you
Thank you very much David!!!! Makes it a much less daunting task!!
To all Camry owners, if the bushings are all you are replacing, only loose the stabilizer bar and the rack and pinion play with the rack to install the bushings. That is all it takes !!!
Start High Pressure and return lines into new rack before aligning it in chassis. This save a lot of headaches and will prevent stripping of threads.
I admire you for such a great video and inspiration for education on this tutoring, just one question, in a 1992 Camry do I have to dismantle a frame that looks in the way of the
Rack?
15:44 you can instal the tie rod ends after you install the rack. Just count how many turns on the tie rod end. no matter what you do, you are always wrong, and you always should align wheels.
Great video with excellent tips. Great effort. Thanks a lot...mine will be going through the same replacement soon.
EXCELLENT DEMOSTRATION 100%
Thank You very much for sharing this video, it's very helpful
It is not an easy job but will save you a lot of money.
Nice work man! This is not an easy job and you did it superbly.
I've done the R&P on this year (97) Camry. I am about to have to do one on an 03. Chiltons Labor Guide shows the labor to be twice as long as the one for the 97. Does anyone happen to know why there is such a huge difference?
Excellent video. Thank you.
Good job sir
Thanks
awesome job dave.thanks for posting.
Thanks David - now I just wish I had your patience and lack of temper. lol
When you get mad or things are not going good, just stop for a while or start again the next day.
Some things the Car Makers make it HARD to take off So you will take it to their Workshop l am always cursing some of them for not making things easier like a previous model No Wonder they get RECALLS being too Smart
There is little money in sales but there is a lot on money in repairs.
AWESOME VIDEO!!! You have done a excellent job with all the tips to change the rack and pinion. Is there an easier way to drain and flush out the system of fluid? Also, can you use power steering fluid instead of transmission fluid? Please and Thank you.
I use automatic transmission fluid because I always have that handy. The only time I use power steering fluid is when I try to cheat and use the ones with stop leak.
If you don't drain the system, then when you take it apart the fluid it all over your driveway. Either way, it is a mess.
Thanks so much. god bless you, you did a good job
I hope it make your replacement a lot easier. Still a hard job.
Thanks. I'm getting ready to replace the rack on a 96 Lexus. I'm hoping it's similar.
I would have expected the instruction at the end that you MUST go get the alignment adjusted after this.
But, overall, I'm not complaining. How long did it take you start to finish?
Great video David
Makes the job a little easier after watching some do it.
Thank You!Thank You! Thank You!!!!
Remember, this is a harder job, so take your time. You might want to do it over a few days.
Very good video!
Great job and Great video! Very explanatory! Thanks a heap! :)
Happy to help. Have a nice day.
This is a great video - I learned a ton. I will be doing this job on our 95 Avalon and I will be using this video to show me how to get it done. Question... where exactly did you place the jackstands? I have been hesitant to get the car up on stands because I am unsure of where to place them. Thanks again!
New subscriber.
Under the a frames by the rotors. I also put them on 4 x 4s in order to raise it higher to make it easier to work under the car.
NO! Do not use oil or AT fluid. Use semisolid grease. oil and ATF evaporate, grease remains and protects from rust.
Great video
8:13. How on earth did you squeeze your hand an 17 mm wrench there??? I got me a nice set of crawbar-flare nut wrenches and worked with long extension from outside.
If I remember correctly, I got it from the top.
1997 Camry LE 2.2L Have watched your video many times. It has been very helpful as I'm doing this job as we speak. At 16:29 of your video, you show a package of o-rings that appear to come with your new rack & pinion part. Didn't come with mine. Can you supply the part number of those o-rings and/or where you can get them? I'm at that point and can't find them. Nomenclature on the internet is poor at best. And you really need this stuff on hand before you start this project. Many thanks, great video.
Those o-rings came with the rack & pinion kit. I really didn't need new ones but since they gave them to me, I installed them.
They would be included if you bought new hoses.
Most auto parts stores would have o-rings that size. Just bring in the old ones to compare, if not your local Toyota dealers has them.
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately my rack didn't come with the o-rings. I called the company that I got the rack from. The guy I spoke to said they normally attach them to the new rack by mine didn't have them. I could not find any semblance of any o-rings when I removed those pressure lines from the old rack. And Toyota in Lake Havasu was worthless. No idea! I didn't buy new pressure lines because my old lines weren't the problem and I'm not going to go buy new $80 lines in order to get $2.00 o-rings. That's why when I saw the package on your video, I thought that might help me. I'm stuck right now still looking for a part number.
Look at the box and get the rack and pinion manufacturer and call them direct and tell them they did not include the o-rings. Or the installation instructions might have their name.
Or call another Toyota dealer in a bigger city
Did you take the o-rings into an auto parts stores and see what they have?
www.globalspec.com/ProductFinder/findproducts?query=o%20ring&se=ggka&setag=MECH&cid=paidsearch&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7frRzNLC2QIV05N-Ch02MAeSEAAYASAAEgLJsfD_BwE - will this work?
Thank you, David, again for the reply. That's exactly what I did. First of all there were no instructions what-so-ever. Secondly, I could not find any trace of the original o-rings. So, in fact, I called manufacturer twice. The first guy I talked to said that they normally did attach the o-rings. That's as far as that went. Called the next day and talked to a different guy and he said he would send them out UPS to get here quicker. After seven days - nothing. So, I pulled the lower return pressure hose and took it to Oreilly's. Matched up a couple of #10 o-rings for $2.73. Put them on the pipes and put things back together. So far no leaks. BTW: the first time I installed the new rack the large bolt holes did not match up. The passenger side was way off. I didn't measure the distance between holes when I had both racks on my table, my bad. Didn't think I had to. So I had to pull it back out to fix it. For reference, the distance is 19 inches measured center to center on the bolt holes. The passenger side has the grommet that can slide. I had to move it almost 3/8's of an inch outward. I will finish putting things together today. Your video is great and your replies are more than welcome. Thanks again, JP
I try to help because sometimes I run into the same issues as you. So, I start calling my buddies as see if they can come up with any suggestions.
good job
I can’t get those 19mm bolts off…. Unless I lift the car much higher and put a pipe over the breaker bar. Also struggling to separate the spline after removing the bolt
You have to remember, that when they put there cars together in the factory, there was no engine and transmission in the way, so I am sure they torqued it down super tight for safety reasons. Making it extra hard to get them lose. Had the same issue.
The spline is not that easy because you have push it up the steering column to get clearance to disconnect.
Spray WD40 and let is soak in.
Very good
Happy you liked it and made you experience easier.
What things do I have to disassemble to access the Rack and Pinion ! The Sub frame???
After reading the comments, it appears the first task should be to loosen the two bolts securing the steering rack to the frame. If not able maybe it is time to quit while ahead and give in to the mechanic.
If you have not worked on cars before, this is not the first job you should attempt.
good job!!!thank you..
Thanks a lot for this. I have watched this several times, because I have a defective RnP that I am determined to change. It's possible I missed something, but I need to know, from which side do I do extract the assy? I could only have clearance on one side of my driveway.
Wen putting on or taking out the rack n pinion be careful for the oxygen sensor cud if u yank on the pinion assembly.u can damage the oxygen sensor wires!!
Three issues I did see: 1) The rack would have come out easier if you had removed the tie rods first. 2) I did not see you center the rack. They do not always come centered out of the box. 3) Never reuse a cotter pin as I seen you do here. Otherwise a decent DIY video. A retired mechanic....
Good comments: This is the first one I did so I didn't know to remove the tie rods.
I did not have a problem with the centering, so it must have been centered where they assembled it. I never think of it because I have a habit of reusing the cotter pins.
I just need to replace the bushings on the Rack, do I have to taka it out ?
I am trying the same install job, but my bolts don't line up with the new part. any suggestions?
Great video. Did you take 3 days to complete the project? I ask because it looks like you have 2 nights, and 3 days. You should invest in a good ratcheting wrench, or flex head ratcheting wrench set. They'll save you considerable amounts of time.
+Bigchuck678 Yes, I was sick as a dog and only wanted to do so much each day
I saw quite a few times where a Gearwrench ratcheting box end wrench would have saved a lot of time (e.g. removing the sway bar).
@@rickalders yup, I thought the same thing, that's why I bought a couple sets.
you can use small 2 jaw puller to "pre-load" the tie rod end, then struck it with hammer.
Also DO not place jack stands on wood beams or cinder blocks!!
Agree 100% on the jack stands placed on wood blocks...super dangerous. Taller jack stands don't cost that much if you even need them.
Nice job on the video but I have a question I replace my Camry rack over the weekend and it seems to be working fine but when I turn the wheel all the way to the left or right to the stops it will squeal. there's a lot of bad information on the internet I'm just kind of hoping you have seen this issue before. Is the pump bad? Or is thos a slipping belt?
I would start with tightening the belt.
Working on this myself right now. Any suggestion on getting the intermediate steering shaft off the rack shown in the video starting around 5:30 if its really stuck on there? You seem to just lift yours off easily by hand after removing the pinch bolt. Did you just lift straight up and it came off? Mine isn't coming off that easy. Have resorted to pulling at it with a small pry bar but no luck yet.
Mine came off with no real problem. I sprayed it with some WD40, let it sit, and it came off. Remember, it has never been off and it is exposed to the elements. Maybe tapping it with a hammer will shock it enough to break up the rust. I know it has limited space.
David Lis Thanks for the prompt reply. Did you lift straight upward or pull it forward? I have mine well lubed and loose but can't lift it more than halfway off the rack spindle when I meet resistance.
I lifted it straight out because you can not move it forward until it clears the splines. How about loosen the steering column where it connects to the firewall (underneath the break peddle)so it moves just a little and maybe it will be enough to sneak it out?
Thanks for the suggestion. I figured I would disconnect everything else on the steering rack before resorting to that. After removing the frame bolts I was able to get enough wiggle in it to pull it off.
This is not an easy job.
what type of transmission fluid did you use? btw i changed the breaks and rotors on my 97 camry all thanks to your videos!
Cheapest one I could find, or one that was on sale: Mercon/Dexron-III automatic transmission fluid. (not FORD)
Fantastic - that is why I spend so much time making these videos. I am an universe guy, what goes around comes around. I try to share my experience and I want to show people that you can do it in there driveway. What is the most that can happen, you get it all screwed up, then take it somewhere.
Great job !! I'm doing one tomorrow in my driveway. You have helped me out a lot. Thanks for sharing.
Watching this video made your life a lot easier. This was a hard job.
David Lis Yes sir it was and I got it done last night. took all day lol
I had to do it 3 times. Changed it out and the new one was defective, they gave me another and it was bad. I went to another auto parts store and tried their brand, and it worked. It gets easy after the second one, all the bolts come of easy, and you know where everything is located. Good thing you only have to do it once.
@@davidlis6709 How exactly did you know you received a defective new Rack & Pinion Assembly part for your Camry? I'm in the middle of replacing mine, using a remanufactured one, of a brand I have had quality issues from, on prior repairs, and am quite curious - thought I should ask ASAP in case mine is or goes bad. Thanks!
@@pentiuman I bought and installed 2 from O Reileys, then I got pissed off and got one at Autozone and it worked great.
Both were from different companies.
I called the engineering depart of the first manufacturer and told him my problem after I installing the 2nd one, I wanted to know what was going on. He gave me some lame answer. That is why I switched to Autozone. I still use O Reily for everything else because they are 5 blocks away.
The problem is that you can not know if you have a bad one until you are driving and feel the dead zone.
Installing the 3rd one was so easy. It just slipped in place. It was like I was installing them at the factory every 10 min on the assembly line.
same for all rack and pinion used vehivles?
My steering wheel has some play cam these rack and pinions be adjusted?
I don't remember seeing any adjustments on the rack and pinion assembly. But there has to be a way.
David Lis
I watched your video and got the confidence to try this myself. For the life of me, I could not get the main bolts out. (snow country vehicle!!!!) So I resorted to just put everything back together, but I could not get the steering linkage back on. Is there some special trick to it???? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
yes you have to pull up on it get it over the splines. it is like pushing it into the steering column
the two main bolts were hard to get off. the nuts have little wings on them so the only way to losen the bolts is coming backside of the car.
thus was a hard job. It took me 3 days to do this that is why I made this video.
So after installing the whole thing, it was a defective unit, so I had to do it over again. Then it took about 4 hours
+David Lis
Thanks for the quick response. My impact would not even budge those main bolts. Not even a breaker bar and cheater bar together. I could not even get a socket on the one on the driver side!. I think I'm going to let someone else snap or strip them bolts. lol Thank you
+J0Gu7 maybe heat up the nuts. you did not see me struggle. I uses a 4 foot long pipe on my rakchet. I broke a socket trying to remove those bolts. the drivers side I used a box wrench with a pipe for more help.
For the spline, watch the movie at about 28 minutes
Thanks
why didn't you show the universal joint removal???
Mine was good but that would have been a good idea. I do it in my vice on my bench.
Was so close to doing this, but those two C clamps were the last to be taken off. Not sure how to take off the C clamps. They stop the header bolts from being taken off from what I saw...
Are you talking about the bolt and nut - in video about 12 minutes from start?
@@davidlis6709 wow, I am three years late, God! Lol. Yes, those two 19mm bolts along the rack and pinion, that have c bolts in between them.
@@Joe_334 Pain in rear
One question for a job like this how much is the adverge price i can bill someone?
Thanks for the video, where did you get your replacement part?
O Reilly Auto Parts
Auto Zone
Damn, that driveway is trashed. Any suggestions on how to degrease it? Typically I put cardboard down and have a drain pan handy. LOLTypically putting oil on bolts isn't a good idea, especially when it's suspension or steering stuff.
+ReclusiveMountainMan When my wife starts getting real mad, I get a plastic pale, add bleach and dry laundry detergent mixed together. I then carefully pore it on the driveway, so I don't get it on my clothes - because that will eat your clothes or at least take the color out of them. Then, rub it into the oil stains with my shoes.
When I think it is done, just wash it off with a hose. If it is still needs, do the same with kitty litter. Pore it on and rub it into the stains. Just sweep it up.
Clean until you oil it up again.
I agree about not lubricating the bolts. The reason they were so hard to remove is because they were factory coated with red loctite. That was what you brushed off with the wire brush. When they were reinstalled, you should have used red loctite and TORQUED THE BOLTS. They look like 12mm and probably should have been torqued to around 70 ft lbs (not left just snug in case you need to replace the rack again...lol). Also, the flare nuts on the pressure and return lines don't need to be cranked down super hard. Doing so only crushes the new orings you just installed.
A couple other tips: Leave the outer tie rod ends on the knuckle. It makes the rack easier to maneuver, eliminates the extra 90 degree obstacle at the end, and shorter. The inner tie rod end will turn to facilitate the removal of the outer. Finally, I'd measure the toe before removal between two fixed points on the front of the tires (marked 1) and the rear of the tires (marked 2). This will make for a very close final alignment when repeated after the new rack is in.
Did you ever clean your driveway?
Did you do alignment after that?
hi i have an 88 toyota celica and is it possible to use other model's rack and pinion for my celica? corollas and coronas are more common in my country so parts of it is easier to find
I do not know for sure.
Do you have a Toyota dealer where you live? Go or call the service manager at the dealer and ask him, they will know or will be able to ask one of the mechanics if that will work.
Yea and they dont know, ive landed to this site www.aaesteering.com/3171-remanufactured-power-steering-rack-1.html, and it is a rack and pinion assy fit for my celica. and i saw below the site the OEMs 1 and 2, i googled the parts number and OEM 1 resulted to a rack and pinion fit for celica and i googled OEM 2 part number and it resulted to a rack and pinion(not sure tho coz it said gear assembly but the picture is a steerick rack assy) for a 85 - 87 toyota corolla. Does it mean a rack and pinion of a toyota corolla (85-87) is fit for my 88 celica?
I can not believe that the dealer does not know.
I went to O'Reilly Auto Parts (www.oreillyauto.com) and looked up both cars and the part numbers are a little different. The Corolla was PN: 311-0135 and the Cellica PN: was 211-0135.
Why couldn't the dealer do this?
I don't know the difference but that is a very hard job and you will not be happy if you install the wrong part.
what place will be the best to take my Car to get this job Done i'm in Houston , Texas
Not the Toyota dealer. It will cost you a fortune. Go to some independent shop that works on Toyotas. Call around because everyone charges different.
My 1996 toyota avalon needs this done, not looking forward to it, how much was the rack and pinion?
Mine was just over $200. They're available online for a bit less. I'm replacing it on my '95 Avalon tomorrow. I'll be under the car one more time today to make sure I've got wrenches that will remove everything. I've already been stopped by the two large mounting bolts even after moving the torsion bar out of the way. It would break my 3/8 socket drive and I can't find a 1/2 inch socket that is short enough to fit on the engine side of the bolt. A straight box wrench has no turning clearance once it's on. So I've found a curved handle box wrench that should be able to reach the bolts from below. On the upside, my tool collection is growing.
Those two large mounting bolts are hard to deal with. But they do come off.
I purchased my locally. In fact, I did this job three times because the first two rack and pinion assemblies were no good. I called the manufacturer and they said it could be a bad batch. The third one I purchase was at another auto parts store and it was a good one.
You can just removed the bolts of stabilizer bar, save time. :)
How long can I ride on a bad rack and pinion? Been doing it for 5 years 100k lol I mean I'm not loosing power steering fluid. It drives and steres fine even alignment on point. I do hear minor noise when parking etc which got little worse over years also boot is toren I got about 250k on my camry don't want to put money into it besides that car good mechanical condition any advice? I wanna make this car last without doing unnecessary work $$ save money
+brs “Brsrafal” rafal Do nothing. If you are use to how it drives - do nothing. My wife's Camry had a bad boot for for 5 years - I did nothing. My friend has 350k on his. Drive it to death.
+David Lis yea nothing that's what I'm do it drives normal actually I'll be happy to go 350k
Glad I paid 987.00 with oil change included😁
This job is not for everyone, and i understand. I have been doing this since 16 that is why I attempted it. Stick to the easier stuff and still save a lot of money. I did have my rear bushings installed on my 70 Chevelle because it is almost impossible to do it on the driveway.
Sr how long did you take to do everything? Like did you edit the video
It took about 4 to 5 hours to do the job because I have to film everything I do. Then I have to edit the video which take about 40 hours because I have to watch all the videos, put them all together and reduce it down. This video is 33 minutes. It takes a long time to make these videos.
about 7 min in you turn the wheel. how do you do this with the steering unbolted? kinda confused me .
+Ken Blalock You are right, I am out of sequence. That is probably what I did the first time I replaced it. The second and third time, I left it connected until the bleeding process.
The first time I replaced this unit took 3 days at 4 hours per day, the second and third time took about 4 hours for each installation. After I replaced it the first time, there was still a dead spot in the steering. I called the manufacturer engineering department and they said you probably got a bad one and they would pay the reinstalling cost but not if you did the work yourself. (Thanks for nothing).
I installed another one, of course they gave me a new unit free. The second one has the same problem, at that point I was getting really pissed off. For the third unit, I went to a different auto parts store and bought a different brand. It finally worked.
I did mine took me 8 hours the hard part was getting it out and putting new one in. I didn't bleed anything either whoops hope I don't have any problems down the road.
I don't think you will have any problems, it will probably bleed out the air by itself.
A shame 100% of aftermarket racks are all that are available besides Toyota
And these horrid rebuilt units come apart in a short period of time and are simply subpar in a big way
I had to replace this 3 times of get it to work. The first 2 units had the same dead spots. The manufacturer said they were sorry and gave me another one but it was the time to replace them.
would this work the same on a 2006 camry?
If not it has to about the same. Toyota does not change that much from model to model.
Tried removing the rack bush but gave up cos i cant get the bolt off
Peter Smith same here I need to do the bushings but it looks like a cross member is in the way !
I had a hard time getting them off. I don't know who put them on in the factory but they didn't need to tighten them that tight.
David Lis
I finished the job on the bushings and it was very easy, no need to take out anything other than disconnecting the end rods and the sway bar !