Notes from someone who just did this: -Buy a ball joint separator, hammering might work, but can mess up the threads. Just buy it. -There is a bracket for the high pressure supply that 100% has to come off, skipped in video. -Rear upstream 02 sensor probably needs to come out, I tried many angles to get it past with no success. -I took the rack out the right hand side, seemed easier. -I also replaced the high pressure supply (U shaped), one bracket is on the back of engine, I had to lay in the engine bay to re-assemble. It took me an honest 10 hours to get this done, every fastener will be corroded and fight you. Every skip in the video he is fighting. Some I had to use a floor jack against a breaker bar to loosen. But it’s doable, and you’ll learn tricks for the future. Thank you TRQ for the video.
crib notes: -straighten steering wheel with wheels straight, tape wheel, hold with bungee or seatbelt -jack up car safely -remove front wheels -remove tie rod nut, 17mm. loosen back nut. knock out tie rod from knuckle. count number of turns backing out the tie rod -remove the steering shaft bolt 12mm. flat pry bar. option 2, 12mm under the dash to release coupler. -flare nut wrench on the 2 main rack lines -remove top swaybar end link nut, pull link up to rotate swaybar -19mm breaker bar or impact gun for mounting bolts (1 on each side) -remove bracket for high pressure line -remove rear o2 sensor -remove rack thru the passenger side -make sure the rack is centered before install -fill with proper ATF or fluid, bleed system
Perfect video! it save me a lot of money. I followed the procedure but I did't need to remove both outer tie rods and no need to remove the inside driver joint, just loose the lower nut (no need remove), this will easily center the wheel. moover, we can use the seat bell of the driver to hold the wheel. Thanks.
going to add: the steering intermediate shaft and rack shaft can be tough. THE TRICK: remove the lower bolt on the column coupler, the one inside the car, on the floor board. it's the bolt closer to the floor. you don't need to remove the entire coupler underneath. Once you take out the single bolt, you can push up the yoke on the firewall side, and then slip it over the steering rack. Also, lube everything up with some white lithium grease. Without removing that bolt, you won't be able to move the yoke over the steering rack.
Yall are awesome. I just replaced my rear struts that were Monroes with trq and the vehicle is now at factory height and drives great. It still needs quite a bit more work but i won't be using anything that isn't from y'all. That includes the rack
Are you positive this is the same for 2002 and 2003? That was a different body style for those years. I have a 2002, and all states the sub frame needs to be at least lowered and the mid pipe removed?
+Pilot Peego Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Hi -2004 es330- extremely small steering leak like a drop of oil/ repair estimate $1,889😩. my question estimate notes steering gear for $859, then steering rack with out outer tie rod ends $609 - should steering gear pkg. include steering rack- w/o outer tie rod ends ($609) Whew- thanks Sandy -
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
Notes from someone who just did this:
-Buy a ball joint separator, hammering might work, but can mess up the threads. Just buy it.
-There is a bracket for the high pressure supply that 100% has to come off, skipped in video.
-Rear upstream 02 sensor probably needs to come out, I tried many angles to get it past with no success.
-I took the rack out the right hand side, seemed easier.
-I also replaced the high pressure supply (U shaped), one bracket is on the back of engine, I had to lay in the engine bay to re-assemble.
It took me an honest 10 hours to get this done, every fastener will be corroded and fight you. Every skip in the video he is fighting. Some I had to use a floor jack against a breaker bar to loosen. But it’s doable, and you’ll learn tricks for the future. Thank you TRQ for the video.
That repair looks hard so I'd better save up. But thanks, for showing the work I will pay someone else for.
crib notes:
-straighten steering wheel with wheels straight, tape wheel, hold with bungee or seatbelt
-jack up car safely
-remove front wheels
-remove tie rod nut, 17mm. loosen back nut. knock out tie rod from knuckle. count number of turns backing out the tie rod
-remove the steering shaft bolt 12mm. flat pry bar. option 2, 12mm under the dash to release coupler.
-flare nut wrench on the 2 main rack lines
-remove top swaybar end link nut, pull link up to rotate swaybar
-19mm breaker bar or impact gun for mounting bolts (1 on each side)
-remove bracket for high pressure line
-remove rear o2 sensor
-remove rack thru the passenger side
-make sure the rack is centered before install
-fill with proper ATF or fluid, bleed system
Perfect video! it save me a lot of money. I followed the procedure but I did't need to remove both outer tie rods and no need to remove the inside driver joint, just loose the lower nut (no need remove), this will easily center the wheel. moover, we can use the seat bell of the driver to hold the wheel. Thanks.
going to add: the steering intermediate shaft and rack shaft can be tough. THE TRICK: remove the lower bolt on the column coupler, the one inside the car, on the floor board. it's the bolt closer to the floor. you don't need to remove the entire coupler underneath. Once you take out the single bolt, you can push up the yoke on the firewall side, and then slip it over the steering rack. Also, lube everything up with some white lithium grease. Without removing that bolt, you won't be able to move the yoke over the steering rack.
Thanks for this! I was thinking dropping the subframe was going to be req'd. But now I see there's room.
Any tips on breaking the line free on the rack I can’t use a leverage bar cause it gives me no turning room
Yall are awesome. I just replaced my rear struts that were Monroes with trq and the vehicle is now at factory height and drives great. It still needs quite a bit more work but i won't be using anything that isn't from y'all. That includes the rack
Excellent job!
I have a question:
Is 30 minutes working on this project a real total time?
Are you positive this is the same for 2002 and 2003? That was a different body style for those years. I have a 2002, and all states the sub frame needs to be at least lowered and the mid pipe removed?
I've watched two videos on this. I have a 2002. I have to loosen the sway bar to make room for the bolts to the rack to come all the way out.
+@Q.Lawrence Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Will this rack work on the same vehicle Right Hand Drive?
Excellent video! This will save me a lot of money.
+Pilot Peego Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Only intimidating part for me is 3:38 part. How do you get access to that area?
Hi -2004 es330- extremely small steering leak like a drop of oil/ repair estimate $1,889😩. my question estimate notes steering gear for $859, then steering rack with out outer tie rod ends $609 -
should steering gear pkg. include steering rack- w/o
outer tie rod ends ($609)
Whew- thanks Sandy -
Many of us would like to know if the V6 is done the same way or does the sub frame need to be lowered..? Simple yes or no answer please.
How would i know if i need a new rackin pinion
هل تركب على الكامرى موديل ٢٠٠٢ v30اوجو