eSun Carbon Fibre Nylon (ePA-CF) with Bambu Lab Carbon X1 Printer: A Followup! 🔍

Hey everyone! After the overwhelming response to my last video on Bambu Lab Carbon Fibre filaments that included the eSun ePA-CF filament, I've decided to give the eSun another shot. Many of you shared insightful suggestions and tips in the comments, and I've also done some additional research. In today's video, we'll dive into the test prints, analyze the improvements, and see if we can finally crack the code to perfect prints with this filament. Whether you're a 3D printing enthusiast or just curious about the process, join me on this journey of discovery and let's see if the eSun ePA-CF filament can be a good Carbon Fibre filament to work with. Don't forget to like, share, and subscribe for more content like this. 🖨️✨
00:00 Title
00:08 Intro
02:57 Previous part results
04:36 Filament diameter consistency
05:30 Feedback from previous video
07:03 First Test prints - Overhang
08:40 Retraction Tests
09:55 Acceleration Test
10:30 Conclusion
Models used in this video:
Catapult Card by Adam-M: www.printables.com/model/2116...
Vise Grip Print in Place by Adam Cook: www.printables.com/model/5112...
Retraction Test by Marteinn - 3DP Iceland: www.printables.com/model/979-...
Bambu studio - Acceleration tower by Creativity_crush: www.printables.com/model/4167...
3D Benchy from Prusa Research: www.printables.com/model/3161...
All In One 3D Printer test by majda107: www.thingiverse.com/thing:265...
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[@PlatedGG]

Thanks for revisiting this! Can you post what your settings were where you got the best prints? Finding non-bambu labs filament needs fiddling with a fair amount to get good prints. The price you pay I guess 😀

[@T8Maker]

@platedgg1920 Thanks for the question, firstly I would download the eSUN profile for Bambu Lab for the ePA-CF filament and import it to the slicer. You can then add the profile to the slot the filament is installed in. You will find it on the product page on eSun (www.esun3d.com/epa-cf-product/) about half way down you will see tabs, click on Download and the first file. Always be careful downloading files and be sure its safe before you download anything and open it on your PC. The file is a rar compressed file with the profiles in the file. To add them to your filament in Bambu Slicer, go to file/import/configs and select the JSON files for the CX1-ePA-CF. Then select the edit filament profile icon beside the filament slot in the slicer, at the top is a dropdown, from here you can select PA-CF-ESUN. That's it. Then make sure the filament is dry, and when your ready to print a model, slow the print speed to 100mm/s or less for other layer speeds under 'SPEED'. Or you can cheat and when you start the print, just set the print to 'Silent' on the printer itself which reduces the speed by 50%. They are the core things you need to do, after that its fine tuning which will vary from print to print, printer to printer, roll of filament to roll of filament. I hope this helps.

[@PlatedGG]

@@T8Maker Thank you!

[@DanSansFan]

This is so fire

[@T8Maker]

@DanSansFan 👍

[@Romangal2701]

Nice review thank you. Which filament would you recommend for rc car parts like arm etc.Thank u in advance.

[@T8Maker]

@Romangal2701 Thank you. For an RC car you have a few options depending on what your goal is, standard nylon would work for most cases and is likely the most cost effective, its especially good in friction parts because of the properties of nylon, you could also try ASA which fixes some of the issues you can have with Nylon. From the Carbon Fiber filaments I have used, eSun ePA-CF is the best value and if you take the time to dry if fully and tune your print, I think you will get great strong results. For the best weight v strength I would go for BL PAHT-CF hands down, but its very expensive. PET-CF would be great because its fairly ridged, but with that, it would also be a little more brittle than the Nylons taking knocks (I have seen this with standard PET), and its also expensive. There is also a PA12-CF which is like the eSun from BL, I haven't tried it. Sorry its not a straight answer, but as with everything in life, each filament has its pro's and con's and there is no perfect solution, but I hope this helps a little.

[@Romangal2701]

@@T8Maker Thank you very for your honest opinion appreciate it

[@T8Maker]

@Romangal2701 You're more than welcome. I just want to correct something I wrote in my answer, ASA is not 'fix' for issues with Nylon. It is an alternate option (it fixes some of the issues with standard ABS). ASA is often used in RC planes and cars for its ability to handle heat better than some other standard filaments along with its strength & durability. Sorry if I caused any confusion.

[@spudnickuk]

I didn't see any Hot End settings or bed temp as these play a crucial part. as if your out by 3 Degrees you get poor results, as it is not forgiving like PLA+
I have found to set the temperatures more hotter than the Temp test towers and of course NO FAN

[@T8Maker]

@spudnickuk you are correct, the temps and fan settings are in the filament profile which i applied from eSun’s website. I am traveling in Asia currently so don’t have access to my slicer settings or the profile but if remember correctly the nozzle temp was around 230c and the bed was 90c. The adhesion on the bed was very good.

[@barr1212125]

which nozzle u use ?

[@T8Maker]

@barr1212125 hello, I used the standard 4mm hardened steel nozzle in the Bambu Lab Carbon X1. Some suggest using a 6 or 8mm but i found the 4mm to work fine.

[@jack91522]

We need one filament which does it all. Strength, temp, cost, dimensional accuracy.

[@T8Maker]

@jack91522 ah yes, the dream filament.

[@QDStrength]

the brand would be uNobtainium Filament

[@globalsacrifice5248]

To sum it up, Its garbage CF Nylon... if its even nylon. Good nylon doesnt flex like that. Referring to the pliers. That flex was ridiculous.

[@T8Maker]

@globalsacrifice5248 Yes, I would say it needs significantly more drying, more that the dryers I have are capable of, since they don't go above 50 degrees celsius, and from some basic testing they hover around 45 degrees if I put a temp monitor inside. Really you need 70+ degrees for 12 hours, which means sticking it in an oven. Something I am not prepared to do because the cost of running an electric oven for 12 hours to do one print, just doesn't make sense. I found the bambu lab filament better and required less drying, but I have purchased a few other ones to test, just haven't had the time. but ultimately I need a better dryer. Open to recommendations.