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@6643140 Your welcome, glad it was of use.

@martinpohle Danke fürs Zuschauen, glad it was useful.

@yogesh812 Thanks for the sub! Really glad it was of some use. Hope your having a better time with your prints.

Glad it helped!

@My3DPrints-ve8zl My goal here, because there are so many variables that could impact a print, was to stick tot he default for a direct comparison. Its far from ideal, but the goal was to give a different perspective. But I take your point.

@rsilvers129 For PLA & PETG it is only for looks and some very minor property changes, but really only for looks as you point out. 10% CF power added to PLA is not going to have a major impact on any other properties.

@SirTubeALotMore fibers are tiny strings. But a lot of the filaments (PLA & PETG) use powder rather than fibers because its only really for looks rather then major property improvements.

Happy it was useful for you.

Glad it was useful, thanks for the feedback.

Glad it was helpful!

Enjoy

@@T8Maker thank you!

@AndrewAHayes I think they have tuned their firmware now, so issues are far less common. It runs quite well now with minimal issues.

@hootysteve Thanks, and good point.

@denniss7805 Thank you, great to know it was useful.

@alecubudulecu risk of measuring with the tip if the calipers is that you would not be flush and get off axis measurement. But after doing some maintenance, changing out the head I got much better numbers. But I agree, unless your doing high precision prints it doesn't matter.

@@T8Maker makes sense.. thank you for explaining. now that I think of it... based on what you just said... it shouldn't matter.... plus if I do it how you showed, I get flush. if I put the item flat where you did... and zero it there... shouldn't matter as THAT becomes the new measuring zero . thanks!

I had this issue although I cant remember the error code, I fixed it by turning of the printer and leaving it for 5 minutes, I was able to push the filament forward slightly with the power off and then when I turned back on all was good and I was able to unload the filament using the unload command.

@italiano0317 The .6mm is recommended, but I did all the prints with .4mm, it depends on the size of the fibers in the filament. Thank you for the feedback.

@ThatMailMan Thanks for the feedback. Glad you're sorted.

@grayfaux_ Thanks. Do you have any issues with dust from the cardboard? Honestly I haven't tried it because I wanted to avoid dust caused by the friction. But I would prefer to use cardboard to reduce plastic waste, and I could just hover out the AMS if it caused dust.

@T8Maker No, I haven't had any dust issues. Very little dust if any comes off a "good" spool. I suppose you could use a quick puff of compressed air between spools as an extra precaution.

@grayfaux_ Thanks for this, great to know, will get a few and try them out.

@marcosscriven Thanks for the feedback, I have a noisy server rack in the same room, and I was using the music to cover it over. Not a great idea, so I went out and bought a better mic and a 32bit float audio recorder to allow me more room to clean the audio if needed. So shouldn't need background music in future videos. Its all about learning and trying to improve.

@KGTv123 Glad it helped, thanks.

@GuidoKoch-xt4tm 👍Anything in particular, or just everything?

@maximilianlindner In additional tests to get anything decent out of it, 12 hours at 50c (recommended 70c) gave me ok prints. But not sure how useful the material is over standard Nylon.

@@T8Maker I dried it for over 24h @ 70°C in my Sunlu S2 before printing (and during). I ordered some other brand PA+CF filaments to compare. Maybe the mistake is on my side

@maximilianlindner Unlike a mistake on your side, but have you checked the actual temp in your S2. I have one and it never gets above 45c inside, also it is not circulating the air. But I may have a bad one, your may be better. Most of these driers never get above 50c. The one I have used in my testing was the EIBOS 3D Filament Dryer Series X which has a fan but also never goes above 55c when I measured it internally, but it does have a fan and circulates the air which should remove the moisture filled air.

@@T8Maker That is very good advice. I will check that 👍🏻 Update: After 14h @ 70°C my digital thermometer indeed showed only 63-64°C, while the dryer display showed 70°C. From what I know 70°C is already very low for PA, but the actual 63-64°C is just not enough. I took the spool out of the S2 and put it in the baking oven at 90°C. Old school, but whatever works 👍🏻. I’d be happy to invest in a better dryer if that was indeed the mistake.

@maximilianlindner Wow, you have been busy. There is diminishing returns on dryers, by the time you pay for the dryer and the electricity it uses (every time you want to print), the difference between high end CF filament and the cheaper stuff like the eSun, it just doesn't make sense to save on the filament. At that point just buy better quality filament. The Bambu Lab worked out well dried in the Sunlu S2 for only 8 hours, even though it never hits temp. I also recently used a Qidi role of Nylon CF and I printed on my prusa directly from packing without drying and got a great print ( I was being lazy).

@Steve-es3fc Noted, I actually cut out nearly two hours of video, but agreed, it should be a 10 minute video max. More work to do on that. thanks for the feedback.

@viduraherath4008 I dont have access to an XL, but I have upgraded my MK3S+ to an MK4 and print quality between both printers depends on the filament and print. I find sometimes the MK4 is better and more accurate, and sometimes the X1 will do a better print. I am waiting on the MMU to arrive and maybe I will do a video with some comparison prints when it does.

@AndrewAHayes sorry for the late response, I assume you have found a solution, but in any case, if I understand you correctly you removed the nozzle but left the extruder in the print head? Nothing should block the nozzle going back in, but you should remove the extruder, it pretty easy to remove and put back in.

@@T8Maker Yes it was also a piece of broken filament in the extruder, my fault as I put an old roll in the AMS with only about 10m left, I have loads of these roll ends but in future I will just use them on my Ender 5 Plus machines as broken filament is much easier to remove than the Bambu is.

@valentinleuci yes belt tension can make a huge difference, plus it prolongs the life of the belts keeping them at the right tension. Thanks for the feedback, and for watching.

@qwertyzxaszc6323 I would agree except for one thing, for those starting out who cannot afford to swap machines, plus waste, there is a lot of waste in 3D printing, and junking old machines is more waste. That said there are a lot of great value high speed printers now.

False. It hides layer lines and makes the parts look better. Anyone who makes product samples or sells parts cares about the surface finish. Also it reduces warping during printing, and some of us need to make dimensionally accurate parts.

It's been demonstrated through empirical, scientific, peer reviewed studies that the addition of chopped carbon fiber, glass fiber, or kevlar fiber increases strength, modifies dielectric properties, improves heat deflection, etc, etc.

I was expecting an asinine comment like this. There are absolutely benefits to having chopped fiber in your filament. Specifically petg. Pla -CF is silly unless you want the look. It adds rigidity, less or no warping at all, dimensional accuracy, bending strength in the xy, and a fantastic finish with no lines visible. I have printed and tuned petgcf across thousands of parts and at least 5 different brands and colors and am now working with asacf and getting the same great results. My parts are used on job sites under rough conditions all the time. And I am currently releasing them to the professionals I designed them for next month. Petgcf and any fiber infused filament requires more effort to tune right. You also have to slice differently. You need different offsets as well as it's very sticky. They also soak up moisture like a sponge in a bath. Not all brands are created equal and some are charging more than their filament is worth. If you have a matte finish on a petgcf part then you have not tuned the profile FOR THE PART correctly. You cannot use a Bambu profile and think it will work the same even with their filament for every kind of geometry. I can say this from experience. Your part should have a uniform sheen to it. If doesn't then you need to adjust temps, fan speed and fan-ramping logic. And lastly petgcf and perhaps other CF materials don't do well with very tiny geometries like long thin single wall lines coming off of a sharp turn. Your results are only as good as your design and your slicing. Don't blame the filament. I am more than happy to help solve your CF woes.

You need to check other TH-camrs who had done tests and differences in performance

@HotelHero Thank you, great to know it was helpful.

@beyond_desi7719 Hi, could be some filament stuck somewhere in the tubing, either in the AMS, the Filament hub at the back, or between the filament hub and the print head. You can watch it go through the tubes to see how far it gets. I had an issue last week and I removed all the tube and couldn't find anything. Then I gave up and decided to remove my Hydra AMS mod and go back to the original. When I started removing the tubing inside the AMS, out fell a small piece of filament that was stuck in the feeder at the back of the AMS under the tray. So checking how far it goes is where I would start. Second thing you could look at is, are the reels getting jammed, not rotating. If so, is it the right size to fit the AMS slots, are all the rollers in place or have any of them poped out of their slot and are skipping. But from your description it sounds most like a jam somewhere, or a faulty feeder motor or hub. But rule out the jam first. Let me know how you get on.

Hi thanks for your reply… when I put the filament it pulls it and push it backs also all the sensors blinking red. Secondly I can’t see any filament going through the tube please advise

@beyond_desi7719 if all 4 feeders in the AMS are blinking red, that is specifically a communication error between the AMS and the printer where the AMS is getting power but not connecting to the Printer computer. You can trying disconnecting and reconnecting the data/power cable from the back of the AMS and see if its fixes it, you could also try plugging it into the second slot on the AMS. If that doesn't fix it, I strongly recommend opening a ticket with Bambu Lab because its possible you have a faulty AMS or Feeder Hub and to ensure you don't void your warranty, you want to follow their instructions on any tests/fixes in case you break something.

@Pablo668 What filament are you using? I have had issues with silk PLA from certain brands clogging in both my printers. My guess is temps are wrong, but cant test it because it keeps clogging.

@@T8Maker I was using the Carbon Fibre PLA filament that came with the printer. I've printed a few things using that filament since then, it's been ok. The only way I could find out of the error messages was to restart the printer, several times.

@Pablo668 I assume the error was some feeding or retraction error? Maybe there was already some clog in the print head, residue from other filaments, that cleared out after using the filament for a bit, its pretty abrasive. If you were still having the issue and if you had a spare head I would recommend swapping it out to see if you got the same issue. But in general, the CF filament are recommended with a 0.6mm nozzle rather then the 0.4 due to the fibers. That said I have printed with all of BL CF filaments and never had a clogging issue, I have also use several other brands and they all print fine with 0.4mm. Hopefully the issue is solved for you.

@@T8Maker Yeah I’ve used BL CF since with a 0.4 nozzle and it has been fine. Not really sure why it clogged so badly. It was brand new.

@Pablo668 if its not the head, likely it was a temp issue. But as long as its working now, hopefully it will stay that way.

@ANHARPMP I am not aware of anyone selling it, but you can 3D Print it, or use an online 3D Printing service to print it for you. Models are in the description, but added them here for you if you want them. I cannot sell them because its not my model, but I think its a really nice design. Case: by TruTech @ Printables: www.printables.com/model/204882-flipper-zero-case Insert for Wifi Dev Board: by coolantmoment @ Printables: www.printables.com/model/345794-flipper-zero-wifi-devboard-cutout Wifi Dev board Case/Cover: by fivesixzero @ Printables: www.printables.com/model/179910-case-for-flipper-zero-wi-fi-module-v1

@vanessasimms2399 You might have a faulty filament sensor, you can get a replacement AMS Feeding Funnel for slot 2 which has the filament sensor, its under 10 euro. Or you can try a whole AMS First Stage Feeder which is about 30 euro. But no certainty it will fix it. I would recommend opening a ticket with Bambu Lab support.

@xXIamJAEXx Yes you are correct, its necessary to maintain quality. Honestly, unless your getting blockages or issues with flow, I wouldn't say its necessary. Anyway here are my settings which are based on eSun's recomendations. First layer： 50mm/s First Layer infill： 50mm/s Outer wall： 250mm/s Inner wall： 300mm/s Sparse infill： 300mm/s Internal solid infill： 250mm/s Top surface： 200mm/s Slow down for overhangs：ON Overhang speed： default (50mm/s in my tests) Bridge： 50mm/s Gap infill： 250mm/s

@user-yz3pl5sb7z Did you get sorted then? Hope so. I know sometimes a problem just needs a break to come back at it fresh and you see things you missed before. Thanks for the comment, and happy printing.

@globalsacrifice5248 Yes, I would say it needs significantly more drying, more that the dryers I have are capable of, since they don't go above 50 degrees celsius, and from some basic testing they hover around 45 degrees if I put a temp monitor inside. Really you need 70+ degrees for 12 hours, which means sticking it in an oven. Something I am not prepared to do because the cost of running an electric oven for 12 hours to do one print, just doesn't make sense. I found the bambu lab filament better and required less drying, but I have purchased a few other ones to test, just haven't had the time. but ultimately I need a better dryer. Open to recommendations.

@harkrits.nagpal6505, Double thank you. Glad the video is of some use for you, thanks for watching it and leaving a comment. And thank you for highlighting the CNC Kitchen video. I hadn't see the video, but just checked, great timing on the topic. I agree with his concerns, and I can confirm that when you print different sized calibration cubes, the deviance can be inconsistent and could be explained by measuring errors and the edges. The calibration flower looks like an interesting alternative. In the case of this video and my previous test, I accept there will be a potential +/-0.2mm deviance due to measuring error, as its only a guide, not an accurate measurement. Also in the case of the X1, it calibrates itself and I wanted to see what the auto calibration returned in results. On the Prusa MK3, its a different matter, you need do need accurate measurements because you may have to manually adjust, so this would be really useful. The biggest challenge with all of these measure tools, are the constantly changing parameters in printing, its the temp of your room, airflow, filament batch, calibration of the machine, degradation of printer parts, etc. The only other concern I would have it, is waste, the flower looks like it uses more filament and ideally we should be looking for ways to reduce waste in test prints, while using test prints to reduce waste in functional prints, at least until we have a sustainable way to recycle. Thank you again for watching, and thanks for the recommendation. If you have any tips for the A1 maintenance as you go through it, if you don't mind adding it in a comment that would be great also.

@teabagNBG, is it definitely the head? Could it be the AMS filament buffer at the back of the printer or the AMS itself. In the head, check the extruder cog to ensure its not damaged or worn. In the AMS Hub there are springs inside that can click. In the AMS the first stage feeder does the extrusion, and again it can slip and click on the extruder cog. Does the filament slip or is it feeding/retracting smoothly?

@@T8Maker yes definitely the head... i will take it off now :D

@teabagNBG Let me know how you get on, I would be curious to know why it only clicks in one direction. If it is the cogs, likely due to pushing rather than pulling.

@captian_north_sea Thank you for pointing that out, and you are correct on the recommendation. When I check generally the Synthetic can be used on the lead screws but its not recommended for the rods, generally I see oils recommended for the rods. Its one of those cases of searching so long for Superlube supplier I end up buying the wrong version... typical.

@davidcastellanos2492 Thank you, that great to hear. 👍

@georgemouer4565 I have not tried the Bambu Lab PLA filament outside of the sample half role that came with the printer. But it printed really nice and no issues with speed prints. Generally their filaments have been high quality, but their price matches others with similar quality. But you get the advantage if you have the AMS to have NFC work to tell the AMS what filament is installed.

I am told Bambu filament is rebranded eSun.

@flat_stickproductions209 I have seen people say that too, but not sure how true it is. Thant said, most of the filaments you buy from Chinese companies, and some western companies, are made in the same factories as with many other things. but they may be made with different specifications, materials, and levels of quality, so its hard to tell. I have used both filaments, and the Bambu Lab branded filaments definitely produce better prints on the Bambu Lab printer, but that could also be related to tuning and settings in the software. But I also see Prusa filaments print really well on Bambu Lab printer with generic filament settings. I recently printer my Prusa MK4 upgrade parts on Bambu Lab with Prusa PETG and generic settings and they came out great.

@@T8Maker got my first roll of eSun today and so far watching the rest print it looks great, better than Sunlu and Elegoo.

@flat_stickproductions209 Great to hear it works well for you. You should check out eSun's website, they have settings for a lot of their filaments, to ensure your getting the best out of them.

@KeNTaNu342 I assume your referring to the blue prototyping boards rather then the Wifi Board which is a dev/test board? If you are they are for making your own circuits to communicate with the flipper through the GPIO on the flipper. You might use this to create some custom functionality for the Flipper. Its beyond my skill sets though. But I highly recommend the Wifi board which will allow you to learn about Wifi hacking/Pen testing.

@T8Maker yea I already ordered the flipper with wifi board

@yzzoarts nice speed. Was that with a standard PLA+ or a HS filament?

@justinfielding I know where your coming from, I have not had any issues with printing standard PLA at high speeds. But the pitch is that is reduces the potential risks of high speed printing, like clogging. So if that is a problem your having, this might be the solution. But if your not, then no need to get it. But this goes back to the old 3D Printing issue, there are so many variables that affect your print, that there can be no one size fixes all solution.

@Hohmies86 Thank you for the Sub.

@AudioElectronicsChicago Thanks, also the 14bit DAC in it sounds great.

@wutangclams9936 For which one, or all of them? In all cases except the Jayo, it was printed with the manufacture default print profiles for flow, speed, etc. One thing I will say speed related, most CF filaments recommend 0.6mm hardened nozzle, mainly because of the fibers, which I might try. In this test I used the Bambu Lab X1 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle. I have two new CF filaments I want to try out, might try the 0.6mm, just looking to find the time to do it.

@ChristopherStarling-rr4dv Firstly nice you can do that test and that definitely narrows it down. Is it just the P1S does not see the AMS? Did you swap out the cable connected from the filament buffer at the back to the Printer? Check the cables are all seated correctly. You could try swapping the filament buffer, I believe they are the same and very easy to swap, only 2 screws. If you have a faulty filament buffer, I would log a ticket with Bambu Lab and see if they will replace it.

@JesusMartinez-zu3xl I wonder if that is specific to the kickstarter. You can now purchase a replacement shell from Bambu, or just glue it. A crack risks impacting on the moisture levels inside the AMS.

installed the hydra mod and reverted the ams back to stock. So many things wrong with the hydra that I just decided to move back to stock. Holes didn't align, lid failed to fully seal, RFID sensors failing to pick up the filament being inserted. I though I messed up the RFID sensors with those awful friction fits. Personally wouldn't rec doing this mod since you can easily damage something if not enough care is given in the disassembly and reassembly of the AMS, especially whenever installing those RFID plates into the hydra.@@T8Maker

@JesusMartinez-zu3xl Mine is still in place and working, but generally I would agree with you. It might be the issues you saw are related to the dimensions of the kickstarter version possibly being slightly different from the production. For most people the advantages over the risks, its just not worth it, ts really only for tinkerers who want to play around with it and don't mind the risk of breaking something.