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Thanks for mentioning the importance of removing the back-I definitely need to tackle that! I have two X1Cs, and the one I purchased earlier has a sleeved wire bundle that occasionally bunches up and rubs against the lead screw. The newer one is routed to avoid this issue, which is a much better design. It’s about time I got back there to reroute the older one properly, and your video has inspired me to finally get it done. While I’m at it, I’ll also take the opportunity to clean out the inevitable junk that’s accumulated back there. Thanks again for the helpful reminder!

I just printed the STL you have linked to Printables, and it came out great. Bambu Lab X1-C, 0.4mm SS nozzle, textured PEI plate, Esun PLA+, 100% infill with the rectilinear infill, I up my temp of PLA to ~223C-226C, normal supports, and SLOW IT DOWN TO HALF SPEED. Mine came out perfect. All GPIO, D-pad, etc, all excellent. I had to change the orientation to have the most surface area in contact with the build plate, but ~2 hours later it was done.

Hi, you might want to tell us which currency you are using when you said "This filament is 16.99" or something, I realised later in the video presumably you meant GBP when you said "quid", I was thinking initially you might have meant Euro, I wasn't confident placing the accent in Northern Ireland.

jsut had the piece break off @5:50 thank you

Pretty good video, one word of advice, I would have angled the camera a bit for the first half so we can see what you're actually doing instead of just staring at the back of your hand. Thanks for posting.

should have printed my one ;) just sayin'

The only CD player in MoMA’s collection!

im not sure if you noticed or not but your I button pins broke off when you were pulling apart the case😬

Can you make me one ?

Thank you for your time making this explainer. I am new to 3-D printing and copped a manute blockage that nothing else would unblock, taking the whole assembly apart, mission accomplished.

Great video quality. all around informative video. Well done

Why do you need those rings? I've not been using them on my AMS 😳

You should test 2 of the best filaments on the market. FILOALFA and TREED

Does anyone know the advantage or specific use for PPA-CF from bamboo?

Why is there no flow test?

Great video, thanks for posting!! Nice to find a video that's actually useful, and explains things well. I had an issue with the print head (extruder), and had to filter through 50 different videos showing how to unclog the damn nozzle, before I found this one!!

Thanks for this video. Just watched it in case I ever need to perform a repair!

So you change the fan no upgrade? I don't understand 😮

I have yet to get a clog in the filament sensor but I do seriously think they need to redesign the upper filament path of that extruder housing. Most my clogs in it are under the runout sensor just above the hobbed gears inside that larger gap. Every time I have a clog I have to push the filament down out of that opening and snip that tip off. That opening there is pretty huge. Most extruders have it as a small diameter opening just like the lower half under the hobbed gears. I think that larger opening on the upper half of this extruder housing doesn't help keep the shape of the filament. The filament tends to curl or even swell ever so slightly as it goes into that gap right after the hobbed gears release it to where it wont pass through the filament sensor. This could be for a few reasons. Either I am getting a little bit of heat creep making my filament pliable, or the extruder tension is too strong deforming the filament ever so slightly. It could be both even. There is not much play you can give on the extruder tension as cover prevents you from backing the screw out much at all. The stock position from the factory has it screwed all the way it. I backed mine out as much as I can but the spring used is really strong as well so it does not relieve much pressure. As for heat creep, I would normally do a PID tuning but I have no clue how to do that with the BambBu printers. From what I gather it is not an accessible feature and done internally. I know mine needs PID Tuning because I use the Panda Revo hotend on mine. I guarantee the tuning is off a little do to this. One day I hope to figure that part out. I think it would help me a lot. Until then I just have to live with it. It is not too bad though as I do not get clogs all the time. It is only ever once and a while.

Thanks!

That worked! I had my first clog in my X1C (filament wouldn’t retract, was showing an error). Your video saved the day. Not easy for my big fingers to plug in all those tiny cables but I made it work! Thank you sir.

Literally one of the most informative videos on this printer i have watched to date. I am using a P1S and it is very similar. I now have a full understanding of how this printer head works. Great quality video and teaching, thank you!

Appreciate all your hard work here getting this together. Fixed everything today.

I dont know if the ABS printing caused that.I just got mine, didn’t even print yet and that fan is rocky and loud. Just a bad design with that fan. After seeing how much thermal paste they use on that heat sink I would have to think a redesign with a part that runs cooler would be better, or at least a quieter fan.

My ams does show up even if its connected

Thanks dude, great video. Really helped me fix a clog that kept coming up. Hoping it stays unclogged haha

About your calibration cube. Check in your slicer if contour compensation is set to 0.1. If it is, it would explain why your cube is about 0.1 off on all sides. Also, enabling precise Z height and setting the resolution to a lower value helps. Asuming you're using orca or bambu studio. Great vid.

70-80 degrees for 24hrs. Print a low speed(Silent Mode).But always dry while printing. The man is very thorough

I print pet-cf through the AMS everyday, never had it break. Seems like you didn't dry it properly. Also the reason why your pet-cf print didn't work is because your settings are wrong. I learned absolutely nothing from this video, because honestly you don't know what you're talking about. I agree with others here who have said this is clickbate, and it is. The two prints you used show absolutely nothing about any of these filaments.

The audio is ok. The picture quality should be awesome but the camera focus and framing is meh, making the video quality above average but not as good as it could be (the bane of all recording) . The almost all natural lighting, colors and definition is what made this vid so much better than everything else I'm used to watch. Don't make my first statements fool you, your the best!

This is the BEST kind of tutorial. Informative, short and to the point! Thank you

You have to firmly push the button in the AMS to feed the filament. It's not good just to shove the filament in. It's in front of the hole you pushed the filament into.

Thank you so much for this video. I'd struggled with filament stuck in the same place you showed. The Bambu documentation has everything in tiny bits so it's not easy to follow if you don't know the next step. With your video I got it done on the first try. Thank you!

I've had the good fortune of running my X1C for over a year with great effect. Now it's time to get serious about maintenance.

0.04mm or 0.06mm I want to test my next filament and CF is on the list! Tested ASA ABS 20+ types of PETG I'm yet to print with PA ( CF ) I do have 0.04mm Hardened steel nozzle Will be getting 0.06mm Hardened steel nozzle this week along with CF. Any tips

Dude I don't think you understand the difference in these. It's not about just the cost and finish or dimensional accuracy. It's about the mechanical and chemical properties of the material.

did you use the ams while using carbon nylon? I seen people say you can't do that no problem with the ams now? wondering since i'm gonna print soon with this filament on my bambu

NYLON is an advanced filament!!!! 1. Drying without a vacuum or vacuum drying oven (the last 15% of moisture can NOT be removed over any length of time) so you will never get to true performance of NYLON 2. There are different types of NYLON (PA6 PA12) so testing setting for your own machines must be done. 3. Moving from PLA base filament (armatures) you should always tune. BAMBU LABs should never be your first printer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Its not the settings BAMBU LABs filament I.E. other than PLA are not in there pure form like there NYLON has additives in order for ease of printing thus WILL NOT give the same performance as a true PA6 or PA12. BAMBU LABs is the apple product without the apple stores for support and service GOOD LUCK NOOBs when your BAMBU needs service!!!!!

When it comes to pet-cf, don't forget to anneal it. It's critical if you want it's rated heat resistance Use capricorn tubing. It's incredibly stiff and as a result makes it so that bend radi are lower and as a result, your filament shouldn't break

Hello what did you use for gluing

My 3d printer was broken for a while and I searched the internet for solutions, but once I saw your video I was able to fix my 3d printer completely. Thank you so much for making this video.

This is NOT the "Ultimate Guide". He stops short of taking apart the drive gears. If you get heat creep like I have gotten a few times you might have to learn this and it is covered in other TH-cams.

You’re a life saver!!

Thanks for the helpful video! Greetings from Germany

You just earned a follower, sir. I just got my x1c unit about a week ago and just had my first clog and I realized why I got the clog in the first place, but needed help getting the clog out. Your video was spot on in explaining the how and the why behind the madness. Thank you so much!

Brilliant! Thank you so much! My printer is up and running again in about 15 minutes!!

Why did you not run test for best printing speeds and Temp for each Filament, rather then box suggestions??? I would say no one besides beginners, ever listen to those setting's without testing, but here we are!!!! 🫤🤨🤨!!! I see too much plastic being extruded bad retraction settings over temps.. the only settings you had dialed in are your PETG's you did ZERO strength test how hard you can squeeze the grip and break it off, or twist the adjusting knob off to a seized part is hardly a test of anything!! you gave your Favorite a fair shake and everything else was out the box!!!! Biases reviews is deceptive I was excited when I seen your video title sadly I had my time wasted because you let your fandom get in the way of doing proper review and testing along with probly lacking the knowledge and equipment for doing those test, this whole review comparison is a wash you destroyed it

There is one reason to buy PETG-CF. It has a matte finish and hides layer lines. I use it when I need something to look good and when matte PLA would get too hot and deform. PETG-CF makes the nicest looking parts.

Don’t you want a tiny cf string included in the filament rather than fibers

I've seen other maintenance videos but you explain why you should do it and what can happen. That's the gold. You also share your experiences and add some extra tips. 👍 While many race through the subject attacking you with a more aggresive tonal volume , you take your time in a calm irish voice. Here for it. Don't copy other TH-camrs, do your thing. May I suggest a future video of belt maintenance, belt tension and checking if your gantry is off?