ULTRASONIC CLEANER with 5% Vinegar, 30% vinegar, and EVAPORUST for heavy rust! EXPERIMENT...
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 มี.ค. 2023
- This experiment surprised me to say the least. Please check out my DIFFUSER KITS down below for your Eastwood or Harbor Freight powder coat guns.
I'm in the Amazon affiliate program and receive compensation when you make a purchase through one of my links. It adds nothing to the cost of this product, I just receive a small commission which helps my channel. Thank you for watching.
VEVOR ULTRASONIC LINK: s.vevor.com/bfP9ak
Special Discount Code VVUC10 for 10% off VEVOR Ultrasonic Cleaners
LINKS to my DIFFUSER KITS
EASTWOOD Diffuser Kit: www.ebay.com/itm/125686625341
HARBOR FREIGHT Diffuser/Mixing Tube Combo Kit: www.ebay.com/itm/125002819173
HARBOR FREIGHT Diffuser Kit: www.ebay.com/itm/124837009589
HARBOR FREIGHT Mixing Tube only: www.ebay.com/itm/124960721797
FAN NOZZLE-HF1 for Harbor Freight: www.ebay.com/itm/125161692424
FAN NOZZLE-E1 for Eastwood: www.ebay.com/itm/125161727758
CREWORKS ULTRASONIC CLEANER:
www.amazon.com/CO-Z-Ultrasoni..." - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Hey, I work as an engineer in a german chain manufacturing company! If you use muratic acid (hydrochloric acid) for pickling for high tensile steel, especially for the lifting chains you tested, it is very dangerous because of hydrogen embrittlement. The hydrogen atoms diffuses into the metal an will eventually concentrate on the grain edges and the metal will become much more brittle. This will eventually lead to cracks which could mean that the chain could break under load!
So please keep the pickling time as short as possible.
Thank you very much for the information.
The comment I came to make.
Many DIY home shop and even shop professionals aren’t aware of Hydrogen embrittlement.
So what is the recommended way to clean the rust off?
@@Marcus.Halberstram Evapo rust doesn’t cause hydrogen embrittlement. media blasting is good too; if you use the right abrasive media for the material to prevent excessive material removal
You have to soak it in baking soda & water to neutralize it
Evapo-Rust in my experience in watching various videos is best for soaking parts when you have the time to wait.
Hey Larry! I've been using the acid for years, and it never let me down. As a matter of fact, I used the same 5 gallon bucket for nearly a year. Just make sure to put a tight lid on it, because the fumes will flash rust anything and everything steel in your shop. It will also remove galvanize off of steel super fast! 😎👊
Thanks for the advice Jack. And, you are so right about the fumes rusting EVERYTHING!
Love the no fluff format to the video. Thanks for the information
You're welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Larry, Thanks for the "showdown". Your results in the first 3 are similar to my own experiences, I've not tried the acid and I will use it as a rush process to get the job done in a hurry. I'm almost 80 so I don't work fast. My go-to standby for rust removal is electrolysis. If you haven't tried it it's (relatively) slow but some of the benefits are: It stops working when the oxidation is gone. It does not remove the base item regardless of how long you soak the part. The active ingredient is Washing Soda (sodium carbonate) which is dirt cheap at Walmart. I use a small plastic stock tank and I've made the electrodes out of rebar and use a 12 volt battery for power. No caustic by-products. P.S. I really enjoy your no bs way of presenting ideas. THANX
Thanks for watching and commenting! I have used electrolysis on two narrowed Ford rear ends and it worked great. Unfortunately the video footage was compromised:-(
Me watching this After I got a Suprucci Ultrasonic cleaner and realizing two buckets with $6.00 M.Acid could’ve done the job better. Thanks for the comparison trial experiment video.
Your welcome! Thanks for commenting.
Excellent video thanks 👍
Great job ... to the point
Thanks!
BTW do NOT put zinc alloy parts in hydrochloric/muriatic acid. I partially dissolved a pair of Amal carbs learning this. It was interesting seeing the internal passages though...
I use urine from a female racoon or bobcat,Works great but can be tricky obtaining it.
🤣🤣🤣
Great job....acid is best if your quick....lol
Idk about america but here in Australia we have a product called CLR. It stands for calcium, like and rust. If you could somehow run a test with that id love to see the results
Also try just straight cleaning vinegar (cleaning vinegar is supposed to be a fair way more potent than regular household.) And also acetone
@@alexbare7181cleaning vinegar is usually only 10% acid, the 30% he tried is an industrial etching solution
*lime*
So, when you are disposing of the acid after the usage of it, where exactly do you do that safely? I mean that once you mix it with the baking soda and water can it be disposed of safely by pouring it out on a flowerbed (not a vegie garden) or simply down a sink drain? It the acid left in the bucket that you cleaned the parts in reused and simply poured back into the gallon jug or did you add baking soda to it as well and then dispose of it? Curios as to what you, yourself recommends. Thanks
I neutralize it with baking soda and dispose of it at my cities' used chemical collection that they have twice a year. If you pour neutralized acids on the ground nothing will grow there! It makes the soil too alkaline.
I still use vinegar. It works best when left to soak.
Thanks for commenting!
Well, if you reported accurately, you used the first 3 for 1 minute and you left the chain in the acid for 10 so that's not apples with apples. The first 3 will definitely not work as fast but more time would have resulted in better results .
The first three lengths of chain were ran for 40 minutes each in the ultrasonic cleaner and the last piece of chain was in the muriatic acid for about ten minutes.
Acid 10 seconds Its awesome. I clean the patio furniture off from rust stains, I don't even use gloves. It gets hot about 45 seconds later, DO THIS OUTSIDE only a paper cut takes .5 nano seconds to feel
Muriatic acid is a great rust remover.
Evaporust works great it just take time, add some heat to it and it speeds up dramatically, muratic acid works great to but the fumes will destroy anything in your garage or shop that is susceptible to rusting
You're definitely right about that, muriatic will rust bare steels and irons. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Muriaric advice, HCL is great for rust but can cause hydrogen embrittlement. Better to get citric acid from a canning or jelly supply shop and make.a.strong solution.
There's a citrus based cleaner that's available at most any store, including hardware stores that sell cleaning supplies. I use it full strength to clean my oven and smoker. Works very good.
Really the difference is how much the acid will etch the item you are removing the rust from. Sure if you are removing rust from a chain muriatic acid is fast and cheap, however if you are removing rust of an item like an engine part that may have brass or aluminum parts attached to it, you may want to use something a bit more gentle.
True.
I wonder what is in chem-dip?
Are you using straight vinegar or are you diluting it with water?
Straight.
How did you dispose of the acid after use?
Nearest storm drain.
evaporust takes 12hr to work also works better warm but not crazy hot
Thanks for commenting!
Evaporite is a safer product and is ideal if you’re not pressed for time.
Very true.
Evaporust has worked great for me, and I don't need noxious chemicals in my shop. But, I leave parts in it overnight, as it does work slowly. Take it out next morning, rinse off with tap water in the sink (no I don't have a wife any more to chew on me for doing guy stuff in the kitchen, even clean parts in the dishwasher which does an AWESOME job by the way). Evaporust action is accelerated in the ultrasonic cleaner, though, but to use it over a longer time you'd have to keep re-starting it after each session, plus let it rest for its prescribed recovery time, which would be a pain. So for me, using it at room temp overnight has always worked well.
Thanks for the input.
Evaporust has worked fine for me. Sometimes I leave stuff in it for 3 days. A month. Whatever. Whenever I get back around to needing the parts they're usually silver again. Then I put it back in the jug and use it again next time with the same results. I've never heard of anyone using it in an ultrasonic cleaner. But I just got my first cleaner for a fried motor and some electronics so that's how I ended up here.
Good to know! And thanks for watching and commenting.
I second the recommendation for evaporust. The “secret” is don’t be in a hurry. Depending on how rusty the tools or whatever is when you toss it in the bucket, it might be just overnight or a week. Most of the time, the iron/steel will come out of the evaporust dark grey in color. That is raw surface steel. Wash it off immediately then get it dry and protected ASAP. Why? That dark grey is naked metal, no rust anywhere but also no protection from rusting again. I usually toss tools I’m restoring into a bucket of diesel oil or something else to temporarily protect it until I’m ready to do it proper. I buy five gallon buckets of evaporust when the old stuff gets totally saturated which can take months or a year depending on what I’m cleaning.
You should not leave parts in it long term either. If any longer than a month I had an steel oil baffle that I forgot about and it turned it to mush after some time.
You only let it run 1 minute - I would have given at least 15 minutes... Letting is sit in ACID for 10 minutes - Kind of an unfair comparison... I use electrolysis ...